..^JjjaJii'Sili  !!;»■  ijl  MSaii.iaj&tei -''>■'' 


^'iv'ii 


v"^^ 

'^J^^^- 


H0 


fm 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


•,«ii$^tea«^£ii^«kxaijsk>> 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductionr  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 
D 

D 

D 
D 
D 

D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul6e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
RellA  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutAos 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
male,  lorsque  cela  6talt  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmtes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires: 


L'inslitut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'U  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
db  cat  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniquec  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


pn   Coloured  pages/ 


D 
D 
D 
D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurtes  et/ou  pelliculAes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pages  d^colortes,  tachet^es  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachtes 

Showthroughy 
Transparence 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

I — 1  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

I — I  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

I      I  Showthrough/ 


Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualiti  InAgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  :juppl6mentalre 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponlble 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  Image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partlellement 
obscurcles  par  un  feulllet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  fiimtes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meillvure  image  possible. 


^^ 


h 

i' 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmA  au  taux  de  rMuction  IndiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  laX  22X 


28X 


30X 


1 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


J 


^•<?fla?e'**^i2S!P'**St'^S!:?0*'*'s^> 


'e 

dtails 
»£  du 
nodifier 
r  una 
ilmage 


Tha  copy  filmad  hara  has  baan  raproducad  thanko 
to  tha  ganaroaity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

Tha  images  appearing  here  are  tha  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'axempialra  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  h  la 
gtntrositA  da: 

Library  of  Congress 
PhOiOdupllcation  Service 

Las  images  sulvantes  ont  kih  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nattatA  da  I'exemplaira  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fllmago. 


ies 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmad 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmad  beginning  on  the 
firat  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impreaaion. 


Lea  axamplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  ImprlmAe  sont  filmte  en  commen^ant 
par  la  premier  plat  et  en  termlnant  soit  par  la 
darnlAra  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustratlon,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  las  autras  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
pramMra  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'imprassion  ou  d'illustratlon  et  en  termlnant  par 
la  darnlAra  page  qui  comporte  une  teiie 
empreinte. 


re 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —»•(  meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

IMaps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  In  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  tha 
method: 


Un  daa  symboias  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darnlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  la  symbola  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  pauvent  Atra 
fllmte  k  das  taux  de  reduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsqua  la  document  eat  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  film*  h  partir 
da  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  h  drolte, 
et  da  haut  an  bas,  an  pranant  la  nombra 
d'Imagas  nAcassaira.  Lea  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrant  la  mAthoda. 


f  errata 
d  to 

rt 

le  palura, 

pon  h 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

mmmmmmm''' 


Sn.t:"^iMiWW»«f¥WnW.W'"ff"»  ■^■'"' 


WOMEN  AND  CHILDRKN  OF  PORTO-QRANDB. 


.  j.iiiitiMifni — '" 


.;::|j:yA;::;W::> 

■"^■i"'  if 

;-;-::;;^|SS: 

•liSi 

^■:^iyi^:W 

Sill 

Iglll 

lllilljisll 

;:;;:;:;|i| 

?|||i|f:|sp 

III! 

|||||||| 

■■■■"^■■i-i^^N^siil. 

iiliili^ 

«liiSlii?';:-li--l 

:iiif 

iiii 

i^^S 

THE 


EARTH    AND    ITS    INHABITANTS. 


-mr:- 


A  F  RIO  A'. 


/^ 


BT 


ELISfiE  RECLUS. 


// 


EDITED  BY 

A.  H.  KEANE,  B.  A., 

VICE  PRESIDENT   ASTHBOP.   INSIIIITK ;   COB.   MKMB.  ITALIAN  AND  WABBINOTON   ASTHROP,   SOC. ;    PROFISiJOB  OF 
HINDUSTANI,   UNIVERSITY  COL.  LONDON;    AUTHOR  Of  "ASIA,"  ETC. 


VOL.  in. 
WEST  AFRICA. 


M 

mM 

^ 

1  -  "\ji_ 

— -^Tjili  vJ!* ^ 

—-l^^i 

\^ 

W^ 

^ 

M 


ILLUSTRATED /SYWtMEROm  ^OZAVIFOS  AND  MAPS. 

9  SEP  7     (8ijB    •,) 

!?f4U  OF  EOU*^!^S^ 
TTCfRK: 
D.    APPLETON    AND    COMPANY, 

1,   8,   AND    B    BOND    STREET. 

1888. 


f  ' 


iiiiggg 


arm 


-  afctwi. 


'.  I 


t  ( 


^ 


iM  (Z^VOt 


\ 


f 


<^^'  . 
^.T^ 


^'> 


"I  , . 


k.L 


CONTENTS. 


en*'-  PAOI 

I.  The  Centril  ahb  Somrat  Atlantic 1 

The  Fabled  Atlantis,  p.  1.  Belief  of  the  Atlantic,  p  2.  The  Azorian  Waters,  p.  4. 
Atmospheric  Currents  of  the  Azorian  Basin,  p.  10.  Marine  Currents,  p.  12.  Fauna, 
the  Sargasso  Sea,  p.  14.  The  Guinea  Waters,  p.  15.  Atmoepherio  Current«,  Bainfall, 
Salinity,  p.  19.     Temperature,  Fauna,  p.  21. 

II.  Thb  Weot  African  Islands 23 

The  Azores,  p.  23.  Climate,  p.  25.  FIj^m,  V.^6,,  Fauna,  Inhabitants,  p.  29.  Topo- 
graphy, p.  33.  Madeira,  p.  43.  Climate/I'- '*^.'?'Flora,  p.  48.  Fauna,  Inhabitants, 
p.  51.  The  Canary  Archipelago,  p.  54..  -pU^at^^^p.  58.  Flora,  Fauna,  Inhabitants,  p. 
69—61.  Topography,  63.  Administra'tion,  ^:  8l!  The  Cape  Verd  Archipelago,  p.  82. 
Climate,  Flora,  Fauna,  p.  84 — 85.  Inhabitants,  p.  86.  Topography,  p.  88.  Administra* 
tion,  p.  94. 

III.  The  South-West  Ajpmcan  Islakos 96 

Gk>nzalo  Alvarez,  p.  97.  Tristam  da  Cunha,  p.  97.  Saint  Helena,  p.  100.  Ascension, 
p.  106.  Annobon,  p.  108.  Sam-Thom6,  p.  HI.  Principe,  p.  112.  Femando-Po, 
p.  113. 

IV.  North  Sbneoaxbia:   Ssheoal 119 

General  Survey,  p.  119.  Progress  of  Discovery,  p.- 120.  The  Futa-Jallon  Highlands, 
p.  123.  The  Senegambian  Seaboard,  p.  124.  Political  and  Social  Relations,  p.  126. 
Senegal  Basin,  p.  128.  The  Senegal  Delta,  p.  132.  Climate,  Flora,  Fauna,  p  134— 
137.  Inhabitants,  p.  138.  Trade,  Agriculture,  Mineral  Resources,  p.  161—133. 
Topography,  p.  167.    Administration,  p.  167. 

V.  SoTTTH  Sbneoaxbia "  .  .      • .        ...        .      171 

Gambia,  p.  171.  Flora,  Fauna,  Inhabitants,  p.  173  -174.  Topography,  p.  176.  Admin- 
istration, p.  178.  ,  Casamanza  Basin,  p.  178..  Portuguese  Possessions,  p.  182.  The  Rio 
Gtande  and  Bissagos  Archipelago,  p.  184.  The  South  Senegambian  Rivers,  p.  190. 
The  Los  Island,  p.  192.  Sierra-Leone,  p  197.  Climate,  p.  200.  Inhabitantii,  p.  203. 
Topography,  Administration,  p.  210—211. 

VI.  XJPPBH  GuiHEA    .         .        ,         .        ,        .        ,         ^        ^        ^         _       ^        ^  212 

Liberia,  p.  212.  Climate,  Flora,  Fauna,  p.  216-218  Inhabitants,  p.  218.  Topogniphyi 
Administration,  p,  223-227.  Ivory  Coast,  p.  229.  CUmate,  Flora,  Fauna,  p.  231. 
Inhabitants,  p.  233.  The  Gold  Coast  and  Volta  Bain,  p.  236.  CUmate,  Flora,  Fauna, 
p.  230— 240.  Inhabitants,  p.  240.  Topography,  p.  247.  Agriculture,  Industries, 
Trade,  p  268.  The  Slave  Coast,  p.  266.  Inhabitants,  p.  260.  Togo,  p.  266.  Popo, 
p.  266.  Dahomey,  p.  267.  Porto-Novo,  p.  269.  Badagry  and  Lagos,  p.  270.  Yorubo. 
1>.  272. 


MMMMI 


K:f  R*i(«fiiww!«*--^ 


^(  ifcWv^'t  *it)'^'*"i^ 


r 


I 


\ 


ir ■>:.  ■■V-;-..-;,  ■--    •;■■    CONTENTS.        .-^<v 

CHAP.  ■-"  ■    "     .,.'■■..'■'■':■■    '_    ,     ..■■■•    '\-''.','  PAOl 

VII.  The  NioEE  Basin      ....        ...        .         '.  '"   ' 276 

General  Survey,  p.  276  Trognss  of  Discovery,  p.  276.  The  Upper  and  Middln  Niger, 
p.  281.  The  Benuo,  p  284.  The  Niger  Delta,  p.  287.  The  Upper  Niger  States,  p. 
288.  InhabiUnts,  p.  291.  Topography,  p.  292.  The  Middle  Niger  States,  p.  299. 
Topography,  Timbuktu,  p.  302  Haussa  Land,  p.  306.  Inhabitants  p.  309.  Topo- 
graphy, p.  313.  Administration,  p.  323.  The  Benue  und  Lower  Niger  States,  p.  324. 
Topography,  p.  332.     Bonny  and  Calabar,  p.  338. 

VIII.  The  Tsvd  Basix 342 

General  Survey,  p.  342.  Lake  Tsai,  p.  344.  Climate,  Flora,  Fauna,  p.  349.  Wadai, 
p.  352.     Topography  and  Administration,  p.   353.     Kanem,  p    354.      Bomu,  p.   358.  - 

Inhabitants,  p.  358.  Topography,  p.  361.  Administration,  p.  364.  Baghirmi,  p.  365. 
Administration  and  Topography,  p.  367. 

IX.  The  Camehooxs 369 

General  Survey,  p.  369.  Rivers,  p.  373.  Climate,  Flora,  Fauna,  p.  374.  Inhabitants, 
p.  375.    Topography,  p.  380. 

X.  The  Gaboon  and  Ooow at  Basins        .        i     ■  » 384 

Hpanish,  French,  and  Portuguese  Possessions,  p.  384.  Physical  Features,  Rivers, 
p.  386.    Climate,  Flora,  Fauna,  p.  391—392.    Inhabitants,  p.  394.   Topography,  p.  402. 

XI.  The  Congo  Basin 411 

General  Survey,  p.  411.  The  Tchambesi  and  Lake  Bangweolo,  p.  416.  Lake  Moero, 
p.  419.  Kamolondo  Basin,  p.  419.  Lake  Tanganyika  uiil  the  Upper  Congo,  p.  420. 
Climate,  l^lora.  Fauna,  p.  436—437.  Inhabitants,  p.  439.  The  Congo  Free  State,  p.  443. 
T,ua-Pula  and  Lua-Laba  Bafdns,  p.  444.  Kissinga,  and  the  Muata  Kazembe's  King- 
dom, p.  446.  The  llsiri's  Kingdom,  Garangaja,  p.  448.  The  Kua  Kingdom,  p.  449. 
Tanganyika ^nd  Muta  N'zige  States,  p.  451.  The  Middle  Congo,  p.  460.  The  Welle 
Basin,  Monbuttu,  and  Niami-Niam  Territories,  p.  465.  The  French  Congo,  p.  474, 
The  Kassai  Basin,  p.  481.     The  Kwango  Basin,  p.  492.     The  Lower  Congo,  p.  493. 

Statistical  Tablbs   .,,'.,.     »r   .^ .      603 

Index      ,   ,,^,       •.;-■♦!   '^.^^'-'^^i''' »  " 606 

"fj* .  "  '■'''. ^-  /■■,''-'■     ..." 


die  Niger, 
StAtes,  p. 
g,  p.  299, 
3,  Topo- 
68,  p.  324. 


.  Wadai, 
a,  p.  338. 
mi,  p.  366. 


ohabitants, 


68,  Rivers, 
,hy,  p.  402. 

,ake  Moero, 
igo,  p.  420. 
ate,  p.  443. 
abe's  King- 
om,  p.  449. 
The  Welle 
igo,  p.  474. 
,  p.  495. 


342 


884 


411 


606 


.t  'J  - 


'I  ,w- 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


MAPS  PRINTED  IN  COLOURS. 


PAOI 

1.  The  Canary  Idands     .         .         .         ,        .       66 

2.  The  Lower  Senegal 128 

3.  The  Lower  Niger        .        .        .        .        .320 


Txan 
4.  Cameroons  Mountains  and  Bight  of  Blafra    368 

6.  The  Gaboon 384 

6.  The  Lower  Congo 496 


PLATES. 


Women  and  Children  of  Porto-Orande  FrontUpieee 
Lake  of  the  Sete  Citades  .  .  Tof&ee  pofft  36 
Madeira :  View  taken  on  the  North  Coast        .      44 

Funohal,  East  View '' 

General  View  of  Porto-Grande,   St.  Vincent 

Island ^ 

Tristam  da  Cunha :  View  taken  on  the  North  • 

Coast        ...•••• 
Toucouleur   Types:    the  Interpreter  Alpha- 

Sega  and  his  Sisters  . 
Jamestown,  St.  Helena   . 
Goree :  Landing-Stage  and  Fort 
Kayes  Railway  Station    . 
Felup  Types     .      •. 
Bujago  Types  and  Termites'  Neat 
Kroomen  .... 

The  King  of  Assini . 
The  Bar  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Volta 
Cape  Coast :  Seaward  View    . 
Porto  Novo  :  Group  of  Natives 
Yonng  Bimbaras     . 


To  face  page 


98 

160 
104 
160 
162 
180 
188 
216 
232 
240 
248 
268 
292 


Fillani  or  Fulah  Types    . 
Nnp^  Woman  .... 
Barge  on  the  Old  Calabar  River 
Group  of  Kanem-bu  Warriors . 
The  Logon-Bimi  :  General  View 
Palace  of  the  Sultan  of  Masseiia 
'The  Fetish  Stones  of  Samba,  on  the  Ogoway  . 
Mpongwe  House  near  Libreville 
Fan  Women  and  Child,  banks  of  the  Ogoway 
American  Mission    on  the  Ogoway  between 

Njol6  and  LambarenS       .... 
The  Traveller  Giraud  amid  the  Reeds  of  Lake 

Bangweolo'  .  .  •  •  • 
The  Yellala  Falls,  Lower  Congo  . 
View  taken  at  Ujiji  ..... 

Stanley  Falls :  Fishing  at  the  Seventh  Cata 

raot • 

Akka  Man  and  Woman  .... 
Group  of  Kft-Lundas       .... 
Stanley  Pool :  View  taken  from  Brazzaville 
General  View  of  Boma    .        .        .        • 


208 
336 
340 
366 
364 
366 
388 
394 
398 

404 

418 
430 
466 

462 
468 
484 
498 
600 


mkmsm 


1»rrr 


■■i 


i 


vt 


I! 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTBATIONS. 


LIST  OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


^^ 


win 
1. 

Cafe    Sax    LainEKpo,    Eastkiin    Head- 

r.tGB 

r«. 
47. 

lANDS  OF  Madeira    . 

3 

48. 

2. 

DepthH  of  the  Azorian  Atlantic 

6 

49. 

3. 

Fall  of  the  Temperature  in  Deep  Water 

9 

60. 

4. 

Temperature  of  the  Deep  Waters  on  eithei 

51. 

Hide  of  the  Strait  of  Gibraltar     . 

10 

5-2. 

5. 

Atlantic  Windii  and  Currents 

13 

6. 

Depths  of  the  South  African  Atlantic 

16 

o3. 

7. 

Mean  Annual  Direction  of  the  Winds  in 

64. 

the  Sonth  African  Atlantic 

18 

65. 

8. 

Summer    Winds    in    the    South    African 

50. 

Atlantic 

19 

57. 

9. 

Currents  of  the  South  Atlantic  and  Linee 

58. 

of  Icebergs         .... 

20 

59. 

10. 

Volcanic  Axis  of  the  Azores 

24 

60. 

11. 

Island  of  San-Miouel— View  taken  is 

61. 

A  Gaboen  neab  Ponta-Deloada 

28 

12. 

WoxEN  OF  Fatal  and  San-Mioukl 

31 

62. 

13. 

San-Miguel 

34 

63. 

14. 

Val  das  Furnas          .        .        .        .         . 

35 

64. 

16. 

Sete  Cidades 

36 

65. 

16. 

Fonta-Delgada 

38 

66. 

17. 

Central  Islands  of  the  Archipelago    . 

39 

67. 

18. 

Corvo        

42 

68. 

19. 

Archipelago  of  Madeira              .      ■^^^.   . 

45 

69. 

20. 

Eastern  Peninsula  of  Madeira  .         .    '  ", 

46 

70. 

21. 

Maseiba— View  taken  fhom  Moctnt  Sam- 

71. 

JOBOB           

49 

72. 

22. 

Dbacona  of  Icod,  ix  Tbnkbifpr 

60 

73. 

23. 

Funchal  and  Socortidos  Valley  . 

53 

74. 

24. 

TeydePeak 

58 

75. 

25. 

Oenbbal  View  of    Saitta-Cbuz,   Tbnb- 

76. 

HII'FE 

65 

77. 

26. 

Beoent  Lavas  of  Lanzarote 

67 

78. 

27. 

Cirque  of  Tejeda 

70 

28. 

North-East  Slope  of  Oran  Canaria    . 

71 

79. 

29. 

72 

80. 

30. 

Peak  of  Tbtive,  Tbnebipfe— View  taken 

81. 

FBOJC  the  CAtHADAB   OF  THE  GuANCHEt 

74 

82. 

31. 

Northern  extremity  of  Teneriffe 

76 

83. 

32. 

Gomera     .         .        .         .        .         .         , 

77 

84. 

33. 

Palma 

78 

85. 

34. 

Hierro 

80 

35. 

Cape  Verd  Islands 

83 

86. 

36. 

Santo- Antam  and  Sam- Vicente 

89 

87. 

37. 

Part  of  the  Voloanio  Plateaux  in  Santo- 

88. 

Antam       ..... 

90 

89. 

38. 

Praia 

.      03 

39. 

Tristam  da  Cunha      .... 

98 

90. 

40. 

St.  Helena 

102 

91. 

41. 

Ascension > 

107 

92. 

42. 

Sam-Thome 

109 

93. 

43. 

Cascade    of    Bur-Biu,    on    the    Aooa 

94. 

GbaNDB,  NEAB  THK   CaFITAL   OF   SaX- 

95. 

Thome       .        .        .        .         ^ 

.     110 

96. 

44. 

Femando-Po 

115 

45. 

Bay  of  Santa- Isabel .... 

110 

97. 

46. 

View  on  the  Bakhoy.    Fobu  of  Mokau 

i. 

98. 

Faba.        .        . 

122 

99. 

126 


Geological  Map  of  Senegambia  . 

Confluence  op  the  Bafino  and  Bakhot     129 

The  Felu  Falls 130 

Floods  of  the  Senegal  .  .  .  .132 
Bars  of  the  Senegal  from  1825  to  18H4  .  133 
Baobab    on    the    Kotubaointa    Rivbb, 

South -West  of  Baxaku  .  .136 

Tuabza  Type 130 

Natural  Divisions  of  Senegambia  .140 

Chief  Nations  and  Tribes  of  Senegambia  .  141 
Wolof  Gibl,  Sixteen  Yeabs  of  Aoe  .  144 
Sereb  Youth,  Twenty-One  Yeabs  Old.  146 
Distribution  of  the  Fulahs  in  West  Africa       1 46 

Fulah  Type 148 

Mineral  Regions  of  Bambuk  .162 

Trade  Routes  and  Projected  Railways  in 

Senegal 154 

The  Bjfoulabe  Railway     .         t        .         .166 

Saint-Louis  in  1700 157 

Saint-Louis  in  1880 158 

Gulf  and  Island  of  Arg^uin        '.        .        .169 

Ruiisque 161 

Bafulabe 163 

Rook  of  Eita 164 

Village  of  Bufulabb  .        .165 

Timbo  an  1  the  Sources  of  the  Bafing  .  166 
Medina— Oenbbal  View  .        .  .168 

Political  Divisions  of  French  Senegambia  .  169 
Sources  of  the  Dimma  and  Comba  .     1 72 

Bathurst  and  Entrance  of  the  Gbmbia       .  .  176 

Tribes  of  the  Casamanza ISO 

Valley  of  the  Toxine  .  .  .  .183 
Bissagos  Archipelago  .185 

Laniisoape  in  OoiNfe :  View  taken  nkab 

Bolaxa 187 

Tribes  of  the  Casamanza   ....     189 

The  Los  Islands 192 

Rivers  of  the  South 195 

Inhabitants  of  the  Rivers  of  the  South  ,  196 
Peninsula  of  Sierra-Leoue  .        .     199 

Fbeetown 201 

Territory  of  the  Western  Mandiagans  in 

Sierra-Leone 204 

Inhabitants  of  Sierra-Leone       .  .     205 

Freetown 208 

Sawpit  Bay,  neab  Freetown  .  .  .  209 
Territorities    annexed    to    the  Colony  of 

Monrovia 213 

214 
216 
219 
221 
222 
224 

225 
226 


Monrovia  and  Cape  Mensurado 
Chief  Routes  of  Explorers  in  Liberia 
Territory  of  the  Kroomen  .... 
Inhabitants  of  Liberia       .         .        . 
Robertsport  and  Fisherman's  Lake    . 
Monrovia  and  the  Lower  St.  Paul  River    . 
Grand    Bassa    and    Moutii  .  of    the    St 

John 

Cape  Palxas 

Cape  Palmas 228 

Ditch  of  Little  Bassara      .        .        .        .220 


^r 


:^W- 


LIST  OF  ITiLUSTRATIONS. 


vu 


FIO. 

lOK. 


• 

PAO« 

12tt 

D  Bakhot 

129 

. 

130 

132 

0  1884        . 

133 

CA      RiVBB, 

* 

136 

139 

a 

140 

legambia  . 

141 

or  AoE 

144 

'eaes  Old. 

145 

'est  Africa 

146         ( 

_ 

148 

, 

162 

[lailwayB  in 

lfi4 

t 

166 

167 

168 

169 

161 

_ 

163 

164 

.     165 

Baflng 

.     166 

.     168 

Senegambia 

.     169 

mba 

.     172 

Oambia 

.  .  176 

_ 

.     180 

.     183 

, 

.     185 

■  TJtKEN  NEAB 

.     187 

.     189 

•                     • 

.     192 

.     196 

theSouih 

.     196 

.     199 

, 

.     201 

llandiDgans 

in 

.     204 

.     205 

.    208 

WN  . 

.    209 

the  Colony 

of 

. 

,    213 

JURADO        . 

.     214 

in  Liberia 

.     216 

, 

.     219 

.     221 

1*8  Lake    . 

.    222 

It.  Paul  River    .    224 

th  .  of    the 

St. 

.     225 

.     220 

.    228 

,    229 

107. 


122. 


123. 


»■  non 

A'sini      .         .    " 231 

Women  of  Obanu  Bawam  232 

AoNi  Type 234 

Routen  of  O    '   Explorers    North   and 

Eist  of  C.ipc  Coast     ....     236 

The  Liwer  Volta 238 

Rout!"  from  Altera  to  Coomaiwi  .  .244 
Gold  Coast  PoBBessions  and  Surrounding 

DiHtrints 246 

Inha))itiints  of  the  Gold  Coast  and  Sar- 

nmnding  Dintrints  ....  240 
Gexebai,  View  of  Elmina  .  .  .  249 
Fnun  Aonra  to  the  Sanatorium  of  Abouri     261 

Abetift  Mountain* 263 

Mouths  of  the  Volta  .  .  .  .264 
Shore-line  East  of  Lagos  .        .         .     268 

Laoos  -EnaoPEAN  Quabtbbs  .  .  .  269 
Inhabitants  of  the  Slave  Coast  .         .261 

A  MOHAKKEOAN    ToRUBA   TbADBU    .  .       263 

Inland  Soeneey,  Slave  Coast       .         .     264 

Togo  District 266 

Dahomey  and  Ajuda  Coast       .        '.         .     268 

Lagos 270 

Rock  of  Abeokuta  ....  273 
Hypotheses  of  the  Old  Geographers  on  the 

Course  of  the  Niger  ....     277 
Chief  RouteH  of  Explorers  in  the  Niger 

Basin  West  of  the  Benue  .  .  .278 
The  Tbmbi-Kundu  Hill  and  Soubce  of 

THE  NiOEB 279 

Upper  Niger  Valley  ....  280 
Backwaters  South  of  Timbuktu  .  .  282 
The  Bnrum  Defiles .         .         .        .         .     283 

The  Bussa  Rapids 284 

Confluence  of  the  Niger  and  Benue .  .  286 
Confluence  or  the  Kwaba  (Niobh)  and 

Benue 286 

Mouths  of  the  Nun  and  Brass  .  .  .287 
Ancient  Empire  of  the  Touoouleurs .  .  289 
Inhabitants  of  the  Upper  Niger  ,.     290 

Intebiob  of  a  Bambaba  HoTrsE  .  .291 
The  Dio  Watershed  between  the  Niger  and 

Senegal 293 

Cascade  neau  Bavaku  ....    294 

Bamaku 295 

Segn 296 

Sansandig        .         .        .         .        .         .     297 

The  Hombori  Mountains  .         .300 

Timbuktu 301 

El-Haj  Abd-kl-Kadbb,  Envoy  of  Tim- 
buktu       ......    302 

The  Races  of  West  Africa  .  .  .306 
SoKOTO :  View  taken  in  thb  Interior  .  307 
Range  of    Mohammedanism    in  Central 

Arrioa 310 

,  A    SoKOTo    FuLAH  —  Brother   of   the 

Sultan 311 

146.  Inhabitants  of  Haussa     .         .         .         .     312 

147.  Katseua  and  Dankama    ....     314 

148.  Kano       .         .    *    .         .         .        .         .316 

149.  Plan  of   Sokoto   and    Map  of    Haussa, 

drawn  by  Sultan  Belle       .         .         .316 

150.  WURNO:   Vli^'.W  TAKEN   IN    THE    InTSUOR     317 


145 


no.  '*"■ 

lol.  O.mdo  and  Sokoto 318 

162.  Rabba 320 

163.  Bida  and  Kaduna 321 

164.  Egga 322 

155.  The  Uppt'r  Benue 326 

160.  Mac-Iveb  Peak 326 

157.  Chief  Routes  of  Explorers  E.ist  of  the 

Benuo         ......  328 

153.  Riverain  Populations  of  the  Beuuo  and 

Lower  Niger 329 

159.  Linguages  of  the  Bouue  uud  Lowor  Niger  331 

160.  Yoh* 333 

161.  View  taken  in  Demsa  Poha.         .         .  334 

162.  Yttkoba  and  Mount  Saranda     .        *        .  335 

163.  DwELLiNoa  IN  NupB        .         .    •    #        .  336 

164.  Idda ,         .  337 

165.  Onitohu '       .         .338 

166.  Bonny  and  New  C;ilabar          .         .         .  339 

107.  Old  Cahibar  Hud  Oyono   .  .         .340 

108.  Routes  of  Explorers  in  T.tad  Basin  .         .     343 

109.  Shores  of  Lake  Tsad    ....     345 

170.  LakeofTuburi 346 

171.  The   Ba  Buhso,  or  Eastern  Suabi,  at 

MisKiN,  South-East  of  Laoon  347 

172.  Tsad  and  Bahr  El-Ghazal        .  .  348 

173.  View  taken  on  the  Banks  of  the  Siiahi  350 

174.  Inhabitants  of  Kanem      ....  355 
176.  Inhabitants  of  Bomu       ....  359 

176.  Kuka 361 

177.  The  Mora  Monntams  .         .363 

178.  Massena  aiid  East  Baghirmi    .  .     368 

179.  View  taken  at  the  foot  of  the  Came- 

boons 370 

180.  Chief  Routes  of  Explorers  in  the  Caine- 

roons        ;.        .        .        .        .        .  372 

181.  The  Lob4  Falls  .         .        .        .  374 

182.  Tribes  of  the  Cameroons  .         .        .         .  377 

183.  Victoria 381 

184.  Victoria  and  Bimbi .....  382 
186.  Chief  Routes  of  Explorers  in  the  Gaboon 

and  Ogoway  Basins   ....     385 

186.  Confluence  of  the  Komo  and  Rambo^       .     387 

187.  Supposed  Course  of  the  Ogoway  before 

the  late  discoveries      ....  388 

188.  The  Ogoway  and  Zonengway  .         .         .  390 

189.  Lines  of  Equal  Cloudiness  in  Africa         .  391 

190.  Inhabitants  of  the  Gaboon  and  Ogoway 

Basins 395 

191.  Fan  Woman 396 

192.  The    Banya    Lagoou    and    Ba-Lumbo 

Country 399 

193.  A  Cabinoa 401 

194.  Corisco  Bay 403 

196.  Elobey  Isknds 404 

196.  Libreville  and  Mouth  of  the  Gaboon         .     406 

197.  Ma-Poko  Falls  on  the  Upper  Ogoway      .    406 

198.  Franceville 407 

199.  Mouth  of  the  Kwilu  .  .408 

200.  Portuguese    Possessions    North    of    the 

Congo 409 

201.  Africa,  according  to  Homann,  in  1711      .    412 

202.  Congo  Basin  as  traced  by  Stanley  after 

crossing  the  Continent       .        .        .    414 


am- 


t 


TiU 


Ttn. 
203. 

204. 


206. 

206. 
207. 

208. 
209. 

210. 
211. 
212. 

213. 
214. 
216. 
216. 
217. 

218. 

219. 

220. 

221. 

222. 
223. 

224. 
226, 

226. 
227. 
228 


LIST  OV  ILLUSTRATIONS, 


'^ 


CnnfTo  BuHin  sh  kiinwn  in  1887 

Chitjf  UoutoN  of  Modem  Kxpluren  in  the 

Coiifri)  BiiMin       ..... 
Lake  Baiigwuolo,  according  to  Living- 

Rtone 

Luke  Bungweolo,  according  t<>  Uiraiid 
Lake  U-Nyaniezi,  according  to  Erhardt 

and  Rcbmaun     ..... 

Lake  Tanganyika 

View  taxk.n  from  Mpala,  on  the  Wmrr 

C0A8T  OK  Tanganyika 
The  Lu-Kuga  before  the  Flunh 
The  Congo  and  U-Banghi  Confluence 
The  U-Banohi  :    Viiw  taken  at    thi 

Nkunjia  Station       .... 
The  Congo  Falls  l)elow  Stanley  Pool 
Last  Rapids  of  the  Congo 
The  Devil's  Cauldron      .... 

The  Congo  Bar 

Lines  of    Navigation    surveyed    in    the 

Congo  Basin 

Foreots  of  the  Parallel  AfBucnts  of  the 

Kassai 

Banoala,  a  Station  or  the  Independent 

CoNoo  State 

Zone  Open  to  Free  Trade  in  the  Congo 

Basin 

Chief  Routes  of  Explorers  in  the  Upper 

Congo  Basin 

Bunkcya  and  the  Copper  Mine  Region     . 
Lake   Bangweolo  and  the  Lower  Lua- 

Laha  according  to  Livingstone  . 
Chief  Tribes  in  tlie  Upper  Congo  Basin  . 
Chief  Routes  of  Explorer*  in  the  Congo 

Basin  East  of  Tanganyika 
The  Lu-Kuoa  Ekissakt  of  Tanoantika. 

Tabora  and  Oonda 

loliabitanta  of  the  Taogfauyika  Basin 


r«oii 

ni. 

416 

229. 

230. 

410 

231. 

232. 

417 

233. 

418, 

234. 

235. 

420 

421 

236. 

237. 

422 

424 

238. 

426 

239. 

240. 

427 

241. 

429 

242. 

430 

431 

243. 

432 

244. 

434 

246. 

246. 

438 

247. 

442 

248. 

249. 

443 

260. 

261. 

446 

262. 

447 

263. 

448 

460 

264. 

266. 

462 

266. 

463 

257. 

466 

268. 

46A 

269. 

\  jiji  and  the  MHlagamzi 
KHrema  and  Mpimbwe    . 
Ma-Runou  Fktwhf.s 
Kavnla  Archi{)clag^ 
Tippo-Tip 


rAoi 

.  457 

.  458 

.  450 

.  400 

.  401 

Stanley  Falls 462 

Unueb  Chief  op  Iboko  and  Head  Chiep 

OF  the  Ba-Noala       ....  463 

Ba-Ngali  Station 465 

Chief  Routes  of  Explorers  in  Monbuttu 

I.and 466 

A  Monbuttu  Woman      ....  467 

Inhabitiints  of  the  Wello  Baain  .  469 

NiAM-NiAX  Woman         .        .        .        .471 

NiAX-NiAM  MiN 472 

Oboup     of     Xiam-Niams     and    tbeir 

DwEiiJNOs 473 

Upper  Welle  Basin  .474 

Dead  Trunks  or  Palms  nbab  M'sola  on 

THE  Congo 478 

Inhabitants  of  the  French  Congo     .         .  479 
Chief  Routes  of  Explorers  in  the  Kassai 

Basin 482 

Ba-Songe  Villages 483 

Largpe  States  in  the  Congo  Basin  .  486 

Land  of  Friendship  ....  488 

Inhabitants  of  the  Kassai  Basia  .  490 

.  Confluence  of  the  Cambo  and  Kwango     .  492 
Residence    of     the    Muene   Puto,    Kas- 

songo 493 

,  Density  of  the  Population  in  the  Congo 

Basin 494 

,  African  Explorations  since  1876       .         .  496 

Stanley  Pool 496 

,  Old  and  New  Vivi 497 

.  Boma 49g 

Port  of  Banana        •         .        .        .         .  499 

Kaxonoo  Ttpb 601 


•«?. 

•             • 

458 

> 

459 

■             • 

460 

•           • 

Ml 

• 

462 

Mkai)  Chief 

. 

463 

•        • 

469 

n  Monbuttu 

466      ■ 

. 

467 

iin        .         , 

469 

. 

471 

> 

478 

AXD     THKIH 

.           • 

473     f 

• 

474 

HB  M'SOLA  ON 

■ 

478 

ongo     . 

479 

n  the  Kaasai 

. 

483 

• 

483 

iasin 

486 

«         • 

488 

auu 

490 

id  Kwango    . 

492 

i  Puto,   Kan- 

•                •                 • 

493 

in  the  Congpo 

•        •         • 

494 

1875       . 

4W 

•                •                * 

406 

■     .f               •                • 

497 

•                 • 

498 

•                •                 • 

490 

•                •                • 

601 

THE  EAKTH  AND  ITS  INHABITANTS. 

— -♦ -■!■,:■  V; 

WEST  AFRICA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  CENTRAL  AND  SOUTH  ATLANTIC. 
The  Fabled  Atlantis. 


''''"'- :Jt. 


HE  term  "  Atlantis "  should  properly  be  restricted  to  the  Atlas 
region — that  is,  to  Barbary,  and  more  especially  to  Marocco,  which 
is  dominated  by  the  Atlas  Range,  the  Idraren  Daren,  or  "Mountain 
of  Moimtains."  But  by  long-establishod  usage  this  name  has 
baen  applied  to  lands  which  have  no  existence,  and  which  have 
probably  been  submerged  for  long  geological  periods.  A  mythical  tradition, 
referred  by  Plato  to  S')lon,  who  was  said  to  have  receivefl  it  from  the  Egyptian 
priests  of  Sais,  has  been  the  main  source  of  the  endless  conjectures  advanced  by 
the  learned  regarding  the  identification  and  locality  of  some  great  islands  and  of  a 
continent  supposed  to  lie  beyond  the  Columns  of  Hercules.  Yet  the  Greek 
philosopher's  relation  contains  not  a  single  detail  in  accordance  either  with  known 
history  or  with  the  vague  memories  of  the,  oldest  peoples  of  antiquity.  When 
speaking  of  the  Athenians  as  a  civilised  nation  contending  some  "  nine  thousand 
years "  previously  with  Atlas,  son  of  Neptune,  for  the  supremacy  over  the 
Mediterranean  world,  Plato  enters  the  domain  of  pure  fiction.  This  Atlantis,  which 
he  describes  as  "larger  than  Libya  and  Asia,"  was  for  him  doubtless  an  ideal  land,  a 
region  belonging  to  the  golden  age.  Its  inhabitants  were  assumed  to  have  long 
flourished,  according  to  his  political  ideas,  under  the  sway  of  ten  kings,  absolute  in 
their  respective  territories,  but  deliberating  together  for  the  common  weal;  and  it 
was  the  neglect  of  this  model  constitution  that  was  supposed  to  have  provoked  the 
angry  intervention  of  the  gods,  followed  by  the  submergence  of  this  fabled  Atlantis. 
Nevertheless,  Plato  may  well  have  heard  of  some  shadowy  tradition  on  the 


"^ 


v.wv*^i*i«''r;-''»?»^.'>-;'' 


2 


WEST  AFRICA. 


•>!'(,- 


ill 


existence  of  a  land  to  the  west  of  the  Mediterranean,  the  site  of  which  it  is  now" 
difficult  to  determine.  Assuming  that  it  still  exists,  this  Atlantis  might  possibly 
b<5  the  New  "World,  which,  after  having  been  discovered  by  the  Phoenician  sea- 
farers, was  again  forgotten,  to  be  rediscovered  two  thousand  years  afterwards  by 
the  Norman  and  Genoese  navigators.  Or  is  it  to  be  identified  with  the  seaboard  of 
tropical  Africa,  coasted  far  beyond  the  Mediterranean  skies  by  some  daring- 
adventurers  in  remote  times?  Or  else  was  this  Atlantic  region  nothing  more 
than  an  insular  group,  or  perhaps  a  solitary  island,  enlarged  by  human  fancy  to 
the  proportions  of  a  continent  ?  Some  writers,  such  as  the  Swede,  Rudbeck,  have 
even  identified  it  with  the  polar  lands,  or  with  Scandinavia,  although,  according 
to  the  more  general  hypovhesis,  it  was  simply  another  name  for  the  "  Hesperides," 
the  "Fortunate  Islands,"  or  "  Isles  of  the  Blest,"  expressions  current  in  ancient 
legend  and  tradition. 

Others  again  accept  Plato's  statement  in  all  its  essential  features,  believing 
that  a  distinct  continental  mass,  filling  a  great  part  of  the  oceanic  basin  west  of 
the  Atlas,  was  really  engulfed  during  the  present  geological  epoch,  at  a  time 
when  some  civilised  peoplec  were  struggling  for  the  dominion  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean  lands.  Such  a  v-onjecture,  however,  which  became  a  sort  of  literary  com- 
monplace in  classic  poetry,  rests  on  no  solid  foundation  of  fact.  A  convulsion, 
which  "  in  a  single  night "  shifted  the  equilibrium  of  land  and  water,  changing  a 
continent  to  an  oceanic  basin,  could  not  havQ  occurred  without  causing  a  tremendous 
reaction,  especially  if,  as  Krummel's  investigations  seem  to  show,  the  weight  of  the 
continents,  from  their  submerged  roots  to  their  summits,  is  precisely  the  same  as  that 
of  the  oceans  and  inland  seas. 


>         '  Changes  ix  the  Relief  of  the  Atlantic. 

if-     i    . ,  .  ' 

But  if  there  has  been  no  Atlantis,  as  a  distinct  region,  in  the  present  geological 
epoch,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  in  j)reviou8  ages,  over  "  nine  thousand  years  " 
before  Plato,  there  existed  a  continent  in  this  section  of  the  terrestrial  surface. 
Doubtless,  no  m^aus  are  yet  available  for  directly  studying  the  rocks  of  the  oceanic 
bed,  whence  the  soundings  have  brought  up  only  some  specimens  detached  from  the 
deposits  of  chalky  mud.  But  the  disposition  of  the  opposite  shores  of  the  Atlantic, 
and  the  fossils  embedded  in  their  strata,  offer  a  ready  solution  of  many  geological 
problems.  Where  the  corresponding  formations  on  either  side  of  the  Atlantic, 
although  belonging  to  the  same  geological  age,  present  considerable  differences  in 
their  respective  faunas,  it  is  inferred  that  the  marine  laboratories  where  they  were 
deposited  must  have  been  separated  by  upheaved  lands.  On  the  other  hund,  a 
close  resemblance  and  even  identity  of  organic  forms  in  the  two  now  distant 
I'Cgions  shows  that  the  corresjwnding  strata  were  at  one  time  connected  by  dry  land 
of  some  sort. 

Thanks  to  these  comparative  studies,  it  may  be  asserted  that  when  the  Jurassic 
sedimentary  rocks  were  constituted,  the  waters  of  the  Old  and  New  World  were  not 


■<lriirfiiifniinhii'irf"iiijiiiiHiMrtllliilA*yiiii>iMitiia^i 


ih  it  is  now 
ght  possibly 
Qcnician  sea- 
terwards  by 
e  seaboard  of 
jomo  daring 
othing  more 
lan  fancy  to 
udbeck,  have 
fh,  according 
Hesperides," 
it  in  ancient 

•es,  believing 

basin  west  of 

ih,  at  a  time 

the  Mediter- 

literary  com- 

A.  convulsion, 

•,  changing  a 

a  tremendous 

weight  of  the 

le  same  as  that 


isenr  geological 
ousand  years" 
estrial  surface. 
9  of  the  oceanic 
ached  from  the 
of  the  Atlantic, 
aany  geological 
f  the  Atlantic, 
9  differences  in 
?here  they  were 
other  hand,  a 
wo  now  distant 
;ted  by  dry  land 

hen  the  Jurassic 
World  were  not 


CHANGES  IN  THE  BELIEF  OF  THE  ATLANTIC.  8 

continuously  connected  as  they  now  are  by  the  deep  depression  of  the  Atlantic.    A 


continent  occupied  t!ie  caste  of  waters  on  whose  bed  the  Transatlantic  submarine 


smm 


WEST  AFRICA. 


m 


cobles  have  been  deposited.  In  the  same  way  the  existence  of  an  identical  organic 
life  in  the  stratified  Pliocene  rocks  of  Nebraska  and  Europe  shows  that,  notwith- 
standing their  present  distinct  faunas  and  floras,  these  two  regions  at  one  time 
formed  continuous  land.  How  often  during  the  physical  history  of  the  globe  has 
the  relief  of  the  continents  thus  been  modified,  mere  passing  forms  which  arise  and 
vanislx  like  the  clouds  in  the  heavens ! 

Yet  who  shall  relate  all  the  vicissitudes  of  land  and  water  in  the  valley  of  the 
tropical  Atlantic  even  since  Jurassic  times  P  The  Azores,  Madeira,  the  Canaries, 
the  Cape  Verd  archipelago,  may  themselves  possibly  be  surviving  fragments  of  the 
continental  mass  that  once  filled  this  oceanic  region.  They  are  at  all  events 
disposed  like  a  border  range  skirting  a  semicircular  shore,  describing  a  regular  arc, 
in  the  same  direction  as  the  Central  Andes  of  Peru  and  Bolivia,  and  the  volcanic 
system  of  North  America,  from  Mount  St.  Elias  to  the  Calif omian  Shasta.  These 
Atlantic  groups  consist  almost  entirely  of  igneous  rocks  and  volcanic  cones,  like 
those  American  border  ranges.  Hence,  if  the  conjecture  be  true  that  craters  occur 
along  the  lines  of  fracture  from  the  marine  shores,  all  these  archipelagoes  would 
indicate  the  outlines  of  the  ancient  coast  of  a  geological  Atlantis.  They  also 
greatly  resemble  each  other  in  their  general  constitution,  forming  altogether  a 
distinct  group  amongst  the  physical  regions  of  the  globe. 

These  Atlantic  archipelagoes  are  not  physical  dependencies  of  the  African 
continent,  as  might  be  supposed  from  a  cursory  view  of  the  maps.  Doubtless  most 
of  them  lie  relatively  close  to  the  mainland ;  but  the  intervening  oceanic  depths, 
hitherto  supposed  to  be  inconsiderable,  are,  on  the  contrary,  now  found  greatly  to 
exceed  3,000  feet,  while  a  complete  separation  is  established  by  the  contrasts  in  the 
respective  faunas  and  floras.  In  many  respects  these  archipelagoes  form  an  inter- 
mediate domain  between  three  worlds.  In  oUmate  and  products  the  Azores, 
Madeira,  and  even  the  Canaries,  belong  rather  to  Europe  than  to  the  neighbouring 
African  mainland.  Through  their  first  known  inhabitants  the  Canaries  formed 
part  of  the  Berber  world,  that  is,  of  North  Africa ;  lastly,  man)'  of  their  vegetable 
species  have  been  brought  by  the  Gulf  Stream  from  the  American  continent. 
Historically,  also,  these  groups  formed  natural  zones  of  transition,  serving  as  links 
in  the  discovery  of  the  New  World.  Even  still.  Saint  Vincent,  a  member  of  the 
Cape  Verd  group,  is  the  chief  shipping  station  between  Europe  and  Brazil,  while 
the  more  denssly  peopled  islands  in  the  Azores  and  Canaries  are  so  many  gardens 
of  acclimatisation  for  the  plants  introduced  across  the  Atlantic  from  the  surrounding 
continents. 


The  AzoRiAN  Wateiis. 

The  oceanic  tract  abpve  which  rises  the  Azores  archipelago,  should  be  more 
specially  named  the  Atlantic,  for  these  are  the  waters  which,  stretching  due  west 
from  the  Atlas  and  Pillars  of  Hercules,  were  frequented  by  the  seafarers  of 
antiquity.  But  this  expression,  Atlantic,  that  is,  '*  Sea  of  the  Atlas,"  has  gradually 
been  extended  to  the  whole  depression  separating  the  Old  and  New  Worlds,  from 
the  Frozen  Ocean  to  the  Antarctic  lands.     If  no  clear  natural  division  can  be 


'JC 


ical  organic 
it,  notwith- 
,t  one  time 
e  globe  has 
cli  arise  and 

alley  of  the 
ae  Canaries, 
nacnts  of  the 
t  all  events 
regular  arc, 
the  volcanic 
asta.     These 
c  cones,  like 
craters  occur 
[agoes  would 
They  also 
altogether  a 

the  African 
loubtless  most 
eanic  depths, 
nd  greatly  to 
(utrasts  in  the 
;orm  an  inter- 
I  the  Azores, 
neighbouring 
naries  formed 
heir  vegetable 
can  continent, 
jrving  as  links 
nember  of  the 
I  Biuzil,  while 
many  gardens 
be  surrounding 


ihould  be  more 
:hing  due  west 
be  seafarers  of 
"  has  gradually 
wr  Worlds,  from 
division  can  be 


THE  AZORIAN  WATEES. 


6 


drawn  between  the  continental  masses  owing  to  the  gradual  transition  of  relief, 
geology,  and  climate,  still  less  can  any  well-defined  lines  of  demarcation  he  traced 
across  the  oceanic  basin.  Following  the  motion  of  the  sun  along  the  ecliptic,  the 
system  of  aerial  and  marine  currents  is  subject  to  incessant  modifications.  The 
seasons  are  alternately  displaced  from  north  to  south,  and  from  south  to  north, 
while  the  ever-restless  floods,  setting  now  in  one,  now  in  another  direction,  inter- 
mingle the  climatic  zones  in  their  ceaseless  changes.  It  ttust  suffice  to  indicate 
in  a  general  way  as  the  dividing  zone  the  relatively  narrow  section  of  the  Atlantic 
comprised  between  the  submarine  plateau  of  Western  Europe  and  the  Bank  of 
Newfoundland.  This  is  the  "  telegraphic  "  bed,  the  first  part  of  the  ocean  that  has 
been  systematically  explored  for  the  purpose  of  laying  the  cables  between  Europe 
and  America.  The  bed  of  this  region,  which  has  a  mean  depth  of  over  2,000 
fathoms,  presents  the  greatest  regularity,  the  most  gradual  slopes  and  uniform  depths 
for  vast  tracts  in  the  whole  marine  basin. 

The  section  which  stretches  south  of  the  telegraphic  plateau,  and  which  may  be 
called  the  Azorian  Atlantic,  from  the  archipelago  lying  nearest  to  the  centre,  is 
sufficiently  well  defined  southwards  by  the  narrower  zone  comprised  between  Africa 
and  South  America.  A  line  drawn  from  the  Bissagos  Archipelago  through  the  islets 
of  Saint  Paul  and  Fernam  de  Noronha  to  Cajre  Saint  Roque,  has  a  length  of  less  than 
1,750  miles,  and  in  this  dividing  zone  the  waters  are  somewhat  shallower  than  in 
the  sections  lying  to  the  north  and  south. 

In  its  general  outline  the  Azorian  Atlantic  forms  a  flattened  crescent  with 
its  convex  side  facing  westwards,  and  bounded  by  the  United  States,  the  Antilles, 
the  Guiana  and  Brazilian  coasts.  The  inner  concave  line  is  indicated  by  the 
African  peaboard  from  the  Strait  of  Gibraltar  to  Cape  Falmas.  The  bed  of  this 
section  of  the  Atlantic  is  much  more  irregular  than  that  of  the  North  Atlantic  to 
the  south  of  Greenland  and  Iceland.  The  oceanic  depths  between  Afiica  and 
the  Antilles  are  not  only  interrupted  by  several  insular  groups  and  the  plateaux 
supporting  them,  as  well  as  by  the  surrounding  banks,  but  in  this  region  there 
also  occur  numerous  submarine  mountains,  which,  like  the  upheaved  archipelagoes 
themselves,  are  very  probably  due  to  lava  formations.  These  submarine  masses 
are  met  chiefly  to  the  west  of  the  Azores,  where  a  sudden  subsidence  of  3,000 
feet  would  reveal  the  presence  of  numerous  islands,  some  disposed  in  scattered 
groups  between  the  telegraphic  bed  and  the  Azores,  others  stretching  from  this 
archipelago  for  some  fifteen  degrees  of  longitude  westwards  in  the  direction  of  the 
Bank  of  Newfoundland.  Most  of  the  banks,  however,  indicated  on  the  old  charts — 
those,  for  instance,  (tf  Sainte-Marie  and  Eutusov — south  of  the  Azores,  have  not 
been  met  during  more  recent  soundings.  Earthquakes,  waterspouts,  schools  of 
cetaceans,  oi^  floating  masses  of  pumice,  have  often  led  to  the  assumed  existence  of 
reef s  in  places  where  the  plummet  descends  to  depths  of  14,000  to  16,000  feet 
without  touching  the  bottom. 

Sadden  changes  of  colour,  from  green  to  blue,  from  blue  to  black,  usually 
correspond  in  the  Azorian  Atlantic  to  varying  depths.  Such  at  least  is  the 
inference  drawn  from  these  coincidences   by  the   members  of   the   Talhmaa 


:i 


•  WEST  AFRICA.        - 

expedition  in  a  part  of  the  Azorian  Atlantic  presenting  great  inequalities  of  depth, 
and  where  four  soundings  revealed  500,  95,  150,  and  830  fathoms  in  rapi<l 
succession.  Nevertheless,  the  same  naturalists  observed  that  the  water  was  of  a 
sea-green  colour  between  the  Canaries  and  Cape  Verd  group,  where,  instead  of 
meeting  with  comparatively  shallow  water,  they  determined  a  mean  depth  of  no 


Tig.  2. — Depths  op  thb  Azobiait  Ai%amtio. 
Soale  I  :  «>,000,COO. 


Depths. 


Oto  8,800 

FMtb 


□ 


Hsigfato. 


8,800toia,a«>       UI,eOOFMtaild        Ot«8,aOO  8,800FMtaDd 

fMt.  npwaida.  Fe«t.  npwmidn. 


less  than  1,500  fathoms.  In  fact,  this  phenomenon  of  shifting  colours  in  sea- 
water  has  been  explained  by  physicists  in  the  most  diverse  ways.  While  Toynbeo 
asserts  that  a  green  tint  prevails  when  the  surface  is  cool  and  the  atmosphere 
moist,  the  observations  of  the  Gazelle  would  seem  to  show  that  the  contrast 
between  blue  and  greenish  hues  is  due  to  the  difiFerent  degrees  of  salt  held  in 
solution,  blue  water  being  the  most  dense. 


BELIEF,  GEOLOGY,  AND  TEMPEEATUBE  OF  THE  AZOEIAN  BASIN. 


of  depth, 

in  rapid 

was  of  a 

nstead  of 

ipth  of  no 


i\W 


f 


i 


b^ 


9I0UT8  in  nei- 

^hileToynbeo 

s  atmosphere 

the  contrast 

salt  held  in 


The  systematic  exploration  of  the  Azoriau  Atlantic  is  still  far  from  complete, 
gome  of  the  recorded  soundings  occurring  only  at  intervals  of  several  hundred 
miles.  The  only  section  of  the  ocean  whose  relief  has  been  accurately  determined 
is  the  plateau  on  which  have  been  laid  the  telegraphic  cables  between  West 
Europe  and  the  United  States.  Further  south,  the  reports  of  vessels  specially 
eqmpped  for  scientific  expeditions  are  disconnected,  and  separated  from  each  other 
by  extensive  unexplored  spaces.  The  Challenger,  the  Magenta,  and  long  before 
them,  the  Venus,  traversed  the  waters  between  the  Azores  and  the  coast  of  Brazil 
in  an  oblique  direction ;  the  Gazelle,  the  Saratoga,  and  the  Dolphin  visited  the 
eastern  section  between  Madeira  and  the  Cape  Verd  Islands ;  the  Talisman  and  the 
Gettysburg  confined  their  operations  mainly  to  the  vicinity  of  the  archipelagoes ; 
while  the  soundings  of  the  Silrertotrn  were  made  only  for  the  pwpose  of  laying  the 
cable  between  the  Cape  Verd  group  and  the  Portuguese  possessions  on  the 
neighbouring  mainland.  Off  the  American  seaboard  soundings  have  also  been 
recorded  by  the  Blake  and  several  other  vessels  between  Newfoundland  and  the 
Bermudas,  and  thence  to  Florida  and  the  Bahamas. 

But  from  these  isolated  records  it  is  impossible  to  prepare  a  complete  oceanic 
chart,  roost  of  the  bathymetric  curves  having  still  to  be  filliMl  in  on  more  or  less 
plausible  conjectures.  Hence  the  great  discrepancies  in  the  published  charts,  which 
are,  nevertheless,  all  based  on  the  materials  supplied  by  the  same  soundings.  Fresh 
researches  will  be  needed  to  gradually  remove  the  unknown  elements,  and  at  some 
points  new  observations  have  already  been  begun,  for  the  purpose  of  verifying  or 
correcting  former  records.  Thus  the  section  between  the  Cape  Yerd  and  Bissagos 
groups  has  been  twice  explored,  the  more  careful  soundings,  made  with  improved 
^jpliances,  revealing  greater  depths  than  those  previously  registered.  In  the  same 
way  the  Talisman  has  corrected  several  of  the  figures  supplied  by  the  Challenger. 
Before  the  introduction  of  the  new  registering  plummet,  there  was  always  a  danger 
of  the  line  running  out  indefinitely  without  indicating  the  bottom ;  hence  the  exag- 
gerated depths  reported,  amongst  others,  by  Denham  and  Parker  in  the  Brazilian 
waters.  At  the  same  time  the  more  sensitive  modem  apparatus  is  liable  to  the 
opposite  danger  of  under-estimating  the  real  depth,  by  recording  the  shocks  pro- 
duced, not  by  ontact  with  the  bed  of  the  sea,  but  by  casual  friction,  the  lurching 
of  the  vessel,  a  passing  fish«  And  the  like. 

Belief,  Oeolooy,  and  Temperature  of  the  Azorias^  Basin. 

The  mean  depth,  calculated  by  Frummel  for  the  whole  depression  of  the 
Atlantic,  would  appear  to  be  about  2,000  fathoms,  which  is  probably  somewhat  less 
than  that  of  the  Azorian  basin.  If  the  Azores  with  their  western  submarine  con- 
tinuation constitute  a  transverse  ridge  in  mid-Atlantic,  the  prolonged  axis  of  these 
partly  upheaved  partly  still  flooded  elevated  lands  will  indicate  one  of  the  deepest 
abysses  hitherto  diticovered  in  the  Atlantic.  This  abyss  lies  to  the  south  of  the  New- 
foundland bank,  where  a  sudden  subsidence  of  considerably  over  3,000  fathoms  would 
still  leave  a  vast  marine  basin  filled  with  water.    Another  great  cavity  occurs  in  the 


iMijtiiriinijiiiaiyKWiia  m  •-  urn ' 


I' 


6 


WEST  AFEICA. 


almost  immediate  vicinity  of  the  West  India  Islands,  where,  about  90  miles  north  of 
St.  Thomas,  the  Challenger  reported  nearly  4,000  fathoms,  supposed  to  be  the  greatest 
depth  till  the  Blake  recorded  4,350  fathoms  some  sixty  miles  farther  west.  In  the 
Cape  Verde  waters  also,  and  even  between  that  archipelago  and  the  African 
mainland,  extensive  tracts  occur  with  2,700  fathoms  and  upwards.  -^ 

Altogether  the  Azorian  Atlantic  presents  the  form  of  a  double  valley,  one  skirt- 
ing the  African  the  other  the  American  seaboard,  with  a  long  dividing  ridge,  which 
runs  to  the  south-west  of  the  Azores  in  the  direction  of  Guiana.  This  "  Dolphin's 
Back,"  as  it  is  called  by  English  geographers,  would  appear  to  be  prolonged  in  the 
southern  Atlantic  by  the  so-called  "  Junction  Back,"  in  the  direction  of  a  third 
ridge  which  takes  the  name  of  the  Challenger.  But  the  recorded  soundings  are  not 
yet  sufficiently  numerous  to  determine  this  point,  although  the  connecting  ridge  is 
already  indicated  on  most  bathymetric  charts  of  the  ocean. 

Except  near  the  islands,  where  coral  beds  occur,  the  matter  brought  up  from 
the  bottom  during  the  sounding  operations  consists  mainly  of  mud  presenting  little 
diversity  of  character.  In  the  shallower  sections  it  contains  the  remains  of  globi- 
gerines  and  other  animalculae ;  but  in  the  abysses  of  over  2,000  fathoms  the  frag- 
ments of  shells  are  so  minutely  ground  and  altered  by  tlie  enormous  pressure,  that 
it  becomes  impossible  to  detect  the  mingled  remains  of  organisms  in  this  impalpable 
substance,  whose  composition  is  similar  to  that  of  chalk.  At  still  lower  depths  the 
characteristic  deposit  is  a  sort  of  red  clay.  The  naturalists  of  the  Talisman  have 
noticed  three  perfectly  distinct  colours :  a  reddish  yellow  on  the  Morocco  coast,  a 
green  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Senegal,  and  a  white  mud  round  about  the  Azores. 
Thus  are  being  formed  strata  analogous  to  those  of  the  upheaved  rocks  belonging 
to  the  successive  geological  epochs  of  the  earth's  crust.  Most  of  these  muddy  de- 
posits on  the  bed  of  the  Azorian  Atlantic  contain  volcanic  elements,  especially 
pumice,  which  must  have  come  from  the  centres  of  explosion  in  the  archipelagos,  as 
they  are  met  in  larger  quantity  round  about  the  islands  containing  active  craters. 
Besides  these  products  of  eruptive  origin,  the  Talisman  has  fished  up  from  depths 
of  2,000  or  3,000  fathoms  specimens  of  other  rocks,  such  as  granite,  gneiss,  schists, 
sandstones  and  limestones.  The  canties  of  these  rocks  were  for  the  most  part  filled 
with  a  bluish  mud  composed  chiefly  of  globigerines. 

In  these  tropical  seas,  as  in  the  northern  oceanic  waters,  the  temperature  falls 
with  great  uniformity.  On  the  surface  'the  water,  exposed  to  the  incessantly 
changing  influence  of  the  seasons  and  atmospheric  currents,  undergoes  corresponding 
changes  of  temperature,  being  alternately  cooled  by  the  north-eastern  trade-winds 
and  warmed  by  the  land  breezes.  In  the  Azorian  Atlantic  the  mean  annual  tem- 
perature oscillates  within  a  tange  of  33°  F.,  although  at  times  rising  to  38°  or 
even  42°,  and  fulling  to  27°  and  under.  But  the  action  of  external  climatic  influences 
diminishes  rapidly  under  the  surface,  and  at  a  depth  of  400  feet  the  water  ceases  to 
be  affected  by  the  alternating  hot  and  cold  atmospheric  changes.  Within  this  thin 
surface  layer  the  temperature  falls  with  the  greatest  rapidity,  so  that  200  miles 
to  the  south  of  the  Cape  Yerd  Islands  the  thermometer  indicating  77^  F.  at  the 
surface  falls  to  63°  at  a  depth  of  300  feet.    Lower  down  the  fall  is  extremely 


mmmm 


MM 


Jm~ 


s  north  of 
le  greatest 
b.  In  the 
D  African 

one  skirt- 
ige,  which 
'  Dolphin's 
.ged  in  the 
of  a  third 
ags  are  not 
Dg  ridge  is 

it  up  from 
snting  little 
)s  of  glohi- 
18  the  frag- 
essure,  that 
( impalpable 
•  depths  the 
lisman  have 
tcco  coast,  a 

the  Azores. 
8  belonging 

muddy  do- 
ts, especially 
biipelagos,  as 
itive  craters. 

from  depths 
(leiss,  schists, 
ost  part  filled 

jerature  falls 
e  incessantly 
sorresponding 
1  trade-winds 
I  annual  tem- 
Ing  to  38°  or 
atic  influences 
pater  ceases  to 
ithin  this  thin 
bat  200  miles 
77°  F.  at  the 
,  is  extremely 


TEMPEEATUBE  OF  THE  AZOBIAN  BASIN.  9 

gradual,  a  difference  of  scarcely  more  than  the  fraction  of  a  degree  being  observed 
in  a  layer  several  hundred  fathoms  thick.  The  result  of  two  hundred  and  twelve 
soundings  taken  by  the  Talisman  shows  for  depths  of  500  fathoms  a  temperature  of 
rather  less  than  50°  F.,  or  27°  degrees  less  than  that  of  the  surface  waters ;  at 
1,000  fathoms  it  oscillates  round  39°  F.,  at  2,000  fathoms  it  falls  to  37°,  at  the 
bottom  approaching  32°,  which,  however,  for  salt  water  is  not  the  freezing  point. 
In  the  region  lying  between  the  Azores  and  the  Cape  Verd  group,  the  tempera- 
ture on  the  bed  of  the  ocean  remains  at  34°  F.  In  the  Bay  of  Biscay  it  is  some- 
what lower,  and  lower  still  towards  the  west,  near  the  Antilles  and  Bermudas,  and 
especially  under  the  equator,  wheie  the  lowest  in  the  Atlantic  basin  (32°5  F.) 
has  been  recorded.  ,  a't 

Thus  by  a  remarkable  contrast  the  waters  of  the  Azorian  are  found  to  be  warmer 
than  those  of  the  equatorial  Atlantic.     In  both  regions  the  mean  difference  in  cor- 

Fig.  Z.—VALL  or  THB  Tbxpkbatubb  i»  Dxef  Watib.      ' 


Kf 


SOP 


«• 


8S» 


1 

k 

•  * 

^ 

\ 

» 

\ 

:  \ 

\ 

\ 

k 

■ 

\ 

\ 

^v 

\ 

k 

• 

"^^ 

^•^ 

-- 

— 

— 

rt: 

n=l=TT=T=:i=.p=r. 

8,800  «,«»  V,UOO 

Full  of  the  tampanitam  west  of  the  Araree. 
.    „       „  „  north  of  the  eqaator  near  St.  Panl's  Island. 


18,100  flMfc 


responding  liquid  volumes  of  1,660  fathoms  is  about  3°  6'  in  favour  of  the  northern 
section  as  far  as  40°  N.  lat.  This  phenomenon,  which  seems  opposed  to  the  physical 
laws  of  the  globe,  must  be  attributed  to  the  influence  of  the  oceanic  currents. 
While  the  region  lying  between  the  Antilles,  the  Canaries,  and  Cape  Verd  group 
is  comparatively  tranquil,  and  subject  to  the  broiling  heat  of  the  sun,  the  equatorial 
waters  are  to  a  great  extent  constantly  renewed  on  the  surface  by  currents  from  the 
North  Atlantic,  which  skirt  the  African  seaboard  along  its  whole  length  from  north 
to  south.  At  lower  depths  cold  waters  set  steadily  from  the  Antarctic  regions  along 
the  bed  of  the  West  Atlantic  to  the  north-east  of  the  Antilles.  According  to  the 
observations  of  the  Chalknger  and  Qazelk,  these  deep  Antarctic  currents  meet  in 
the  zone  to  the  south-west  of  the  Azores,  between  36° — 37°  N.  lat.  The  thermic 
equator  of  the  oceanic  bed,  as  indicated  by  warmer  layers  than  those  to  the  north  and 
south,  is  thus  deflected  far  beyond  the  geometric  equator  of  the  globe.  It  crosses 
the  Azorian  Atlantic  obliquely,  1,200  miles  to  the  north  of  the  equator,  so  that  on 

86— AF 


.1 


10 


WEST  AFBICA. 


water  as  well  as  on  dry  land  the  zone  of  equilibrium  between  the  northern  and 
southern  cliinutes  falls  within  the  northern  hemisphere. 

But  whatever  bo  the  local  differences  of  temperature,  the  gradual  normal  fall 
from  the  surface  towards  the  bottom  down  to  2**  or  3"  above  zero,  or  even  lower,  is 
constant  for  every  part  of  the  oceanic  basin.  The  case  is  different  for  the  nearly 
landlocked  basin  of  the  Mediterranean,  which  from  the  neighbouring  ocean  receives 
only  surface  waters  at  a  temperature  always  above  63**  or  64"  F.  M,  Faye's  well- 
known  theory  regarding  the  density  of  the  terrestrial  crust  is  largely  based  on  the  fact 
that  the  lower  oceanic  waters  are  nearly  always  icy  cold.  Being  exposed  for  long 
geological  ages  to  this  cooling  influence,  the  rocky  bed  itself  has  become  cooler 
down  to  a  certain  depth.  It  has  thus  become  contracted,  with  a  corresponding  in- 
crease  of  thickness  and  density,  so  that,  bulk  for  bulk,  the  submarine  are  heavier 


Fig.  4.— TEMmiuTUBB  OF  xuB  Dup  Wateus  on  bithbu  8IUB  ^^r  tub  Stuait  ur  Oibbaltab 
F.  A  T  I.  A  n  T  ■  o  Ptft  mkditrrhambaiv 


F. 
57» 


aOOmilM. 


than  the  continental  masses,  the  latter  consequently  exercising  a  less  relative 
influence  on  the  vibrations  of  the  pendulum. 

.    "  Atmospheric  Currents  of  the  Azorian  Basin. 

As  regards  its  aerial  currents,  the  Azorian  Atlantic  partakes  of  two  different 
zones,  in  the  north  coming  within  the  European  zone  of  westerly  winds,  in  the 
south  within  that  of  the  trade  winds,  that  is,  the  oceanic  zone  properly  so  called. 
The  African  waters  are  further  distinguished  by  a  special  atmospheric  system,  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  mainland  reversing  the  normal  disposition  in  the  develop- 
ment of  the  local  daily  breezes  and  the  periodical  monsoons.  The  Azores  lie  nearly 
on  the  limit  between  the  trade-winds  and  the  opposing  currents,  which  descending 
from  the  upper  regions,  take  a  normal  south-westerly  or  westerly  direction.  The 
winds  which  set  towards  the  coasts  of  Iberia,  France,  and  the  British  Isles  have 
their  origin  in  this  central  part  of  the  oceanic  basin  M.  Brault's  exhaustive  studies 
on  the  direction  and  intenrity  of  the  North  Atlantic  winds  show  that  in  summer, 
Flores,  one  of  the  western  Azores,  forms  the  focus  of  a  regular  aerial  rotation.  The 
waters  around  this  island  are  the  only  Atlantic  i*egion  where  the  northern  blow  as 


ll'WlWIWIilWJWUljKlHiUJnilnllrMiliiC^JHigi 


MfeWati 


^Q^ 


ATMOSPHEEIC  CUBRENTS  OF  THE  AZOBIAN  BASIN. 


II 


hern  and 

trmal  fall 
lower,  is 
be  nearly 
n  receives 
ye's  well- 
on  the  fact 
d  for  long 
»me  cooler 
anding  in- 
ire  heavier 

BKALTAH. 


fOP 


aoo  miles. 

ess  relative 


;wo  different 
(rinds,  in  the 
rlv  so  called. 
0  system,  the 
the  develop- 
)res  lie  nearly 
sh  descending 
rection.    The 
sh  Isles  have 
lustive  studies 
at  in  summer, 
rotation.    The 
rthern  hlow  as 


frequentlj'  as  the  southern  gales,  and  where  the  western  are  bulanced  by  the 
eastern  currents.  East  of  this  point  the  prevailing  breezes  are  northerly,  westwards 
southerly,  northwards  mainly  westerly,  southwards  easterly.  Hence  round  this 
central  region  revolves  the  great  atmospheric  ocean  of  the  Azorian  Atlantic,  a  fact 
which  will  add  greatly  to  the  importance  of  the  submarine  cable  about  to  connect 
the  Azores  with  all  the  European  meteorological  stations.  The  chief  station  will  be 
established  at  the  point  of  intersection  of  the  great  aerial  currents,  whence  more  or 
less  trustworthy  weather  forecasts  can  bo  announced  some  days  in  advance  for  the 
west  of  Europe. 

The  normal  movement  of  the  winds  in  the  Azorian  Atlantic  has  been  well 
known  since  the  early  navigators  began  to  frequent  these  waters.     All  were  struck 
by  the  regxilarity  of  the  currents  blowing  off  the  coasts  of  Madeira  and  the  Canaries, 
to  which  they  gave  names  betraying  their  knowledge  of  the  law  regidating  the 
circulation  of  the  winds  in  this  region.     For  the  Portuguese  these  currents  setting 
regularly  from  the  north-east  to  the  south-west  are  the  "geraes"  or  "general;" 
for  the  French  the  "  aliz^s,"  that  is,  "uniform  "  or  "regular;"  while  for  the  Eng- 
lish they  are  at  first  the  "  tread  winds,"  that  is  the  "  steady,"  or  "  constant,"  after- 
wards by  an  unconscious  but  easily  understood  play  of  words,  changed  to  the 
"  trade  winds."    But  notwithstanding  their  general  regularity,  these  sea  breezes 
are  subject  to  certain  changes  of  velocity  from  season  to  season,  as  well  as  to 
deflections  to  right  and  left  of  the  normal  direction.     The  main  features  of  this 
atmospheric  system  may  be  studied  in  Maury's  pilot-charts,  in  those  of  Brault  and 
Toynbee,  which  give  the  results  of  many  hundred  thousand  observations,  and  which 
continue  the  labours  of  previous  meteorologists  in  this  field.     During  the  summer 
of  the  northern  hemisphere  the  whole  space  stretching  from  the  Azores  southwards 
to  the  fourteenth  degree  N.  lat.  is  swept  by  the  trade  winds,  which  in  winter  are 
deflected  much  farther  south.      Thus,  while  the  Azorian  waters  are  temporarily 
brought  within  the  influence  of  the  variable  western  breezes,  the  Central  Atlantic 
as  far  as  3°  or  4°  S.  lat.  is  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  trade  winds. 

Seafarers  have  also  to  study  the  zones  of  calm  or  less  intense  aerial  currents, 
one  of  which  lies  about  the  equator,  the  other  to  the  south  of  the  Azores,  both 
forming  elliptical  spaces  round  which  are  developed  the  curves  of  equal  force  first 
described  by  Brault,  and  by  him  named  "  isanemonic  curves. "     Lastly  there  remains 
to  be  considered  the  thickness  of  the  aeriat  curves  constituting  the  trade  winds, 
above  which  set  the  counter-winds  which,  after  rising  vertically  into  the  zone  of 
equatorial  calms  turn  northward  in  the  direction  of  the  pole,  gradually  falling 
towards  the  surface  of  the  earth.    At  the  Peak  of  Teyde,  in  the  Canaries,  the  inter- 
vening zone  between  the  trade  and  counter- winds  rises  in  summer  and  descends  in 
winter  on  the  upper  slopes  of  the  mountain,  and  Piazzi  Smith  has  been  able  several 
limes  to  measure  the  exact  thickness  of  the  lower  current  blowing  in  the  direction 
from  north-east  to  south-west.     But  the  Teyde  Peak  is  a  mere  islet  in  this  atmo- 
spheric ocean,  and  there  still  remain  to  be  studied  in  the  same  systematic  way  the 
heights  of  Madeira  and  the  Cape  Verd  Islands,  as  well  as  the  general  movement  of 
all  the  counter-winds. 


12 


WEST  APmOA. 


11^! 


Marine  Currents  of  the  Azorian  Basin. 

The  more  salient  features  of  the  marine,  like  those  of  the  aerial  currents,  in  the 
Azorian  Atlantic  are  already  known  ;  but  many  obscure  and  doubtful  points  still 
remain  to  bo  cleared  up.  It  is  all  the  more  difficult  to  follow  the  course  of  the 
circulating  waters,  that  certain  currents  move  too  slowly  to  be  directly  measured. 
They  can  bo  detected  only  by  means  of  the  thermometer,  when  their  temperature 
differs  from  that  of  the  circumambient  liquid.  In  this  way  has  been  determined 
the  existence  of  a  deep  stream  flowing  from  the  Antarctic  seas  to  the  equatorial 
waters  and  even  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Azores  ;  by  means  of  the  thermometer 
the  presence  of  corresponding  cool  currents  from  the  Arctic  Ocean  has  been  revealed 
in  the  same  region.  But  as  a  rule  the  waters  occupying  nearly  the  whole  of  the 
Central  Atlantic  basin  have  a  very  perceptible  velocity,  in  some  places  reaching  one 
or  two  miles  per  hour. 

Altogether  the  section  of  the  Atlantic  comprised  between  the  telegraph  plateau 
and  the  equator,  between  the  west  coast  of  Africa  and  the  Antilles,  is  filled  by  a 
vast  vortex  incessantly  rotating,  and  constantly  influenced  by  the  same  forces. 
The  current,  deflected  from  the  Senegambian  coast,  bends  across  the  ocean  in  the 
direction  of  the  West  Indies.  Here  it  ramifies  into  two  branches,  one  penetrating 
into  the  Caribbean  Sea,  the  other  skirting  the  east  side  of  the  Bahamas,  beyond 
which  it  joins  the  American  Oulf  Stream,  flowing  thence  east  and  north-east.  The 
current  returning  from  America  towards  the  Old  World  traverses  the  Azorian 
Atlantic,  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Portuguese  and  Maroccan  coasts  bends 
southwards,  thus  completing  the  vast  circuit. 

These  oceanic  streams  flow  nearly  parallel  with  those  of  the  atmosphere  above 
them,  from  which  they  differ  only  in  their  more  sluggish  motion,  and  in  the  deflec- 
tions imposed  upon  them  by  the  sudden  obstacles  of  insular  and  continental  barriers. 
The  surface  waters  being  directly  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  wind,  necessarily 
move  in  the  same  dit'ection,  lashed  into  crested  billows  under  high  gales,  gently 
rippled  beneath  the  soft  zephyrs.  The  casual  winds  produce  only  a  passing  effect, 
their  action  never  reaching  far  below  the  surface.  But  regular  currents,  such  as 
the  trade  winds,  acting  from  century  to  century  throughout  countless  ages,  have 
gradually  penetrated  to  great  depths,  thus  largely  contributing  to  determine  their 
general  movement.  Till  recently  physicists  supposed  that  the  chief  cause  of  the 
equatorial  current  flowing  westwards  in  the  contrary  direction  to  the  globe  itself, 
was  the  terrestial  rotation,  a  movement  necessarily  outstripping  that  o£  the  encircling 
oceanic  waters.  The  transversa  currents  would  then  be  explained  in  the  same  way 
by  the  greater  velocity  of  planetary  rotation  acquired  by  the  waters  under  the  equa- 
torial latitudes.  According  to  Miihry,  the  centrifugal  force  of  the  globe,  being 
greater  on  the  equator  than  elsewhere,  is  the  primary  cause  of  the  general  oceanic 
movement.  But  in  any  case  the  varying  degrees  of  salinity  and  heat  between 
the  liquid  layers  must  also  tend  to  produce  these  currents,  although  the  effects 
produced  by  them  cannot  be  determined  with  the  most  delicate  observations  con- 
tinued for  many  years  by  skilled  observers. 


"sr: 


-  ■,  ^flwi'w  i'Mi '  iiwrtiwwWiO 


KiiiHiiiiirinntnuii 


BMl 


MMlhl 


MABINE  CURRENTS  OP  THE  AZORIAN  BASIN. 


18 


\B,  in  the 
ints  still 
e  of  the 
leasured. 
iperature 
termined 
quatorial 
■mometer 
revealed 
>le  of  the 
ihing  one 

h  plateau 
led  bv  a 
le  forces, 
an  in  the 
netrating 
,8,  beyond 
ast.  The 
>  A^oriaii 
ists  bends 

are  above 
;ho  dcflec- 

barriers. 
ecessarily 
es,  gently 
ing  effect, 
s,  such  as 

fes,  have 
nine  their 
ise  of  the 
obe  itself, 
encircling 

same  way 

the  equa- 
jbe,  being 
■al  oceanic 
between 
;he  efEects 
tious  con- 


The  mean  velocity  of  the  chief  currents  in  the  Azorian  Atlantic  can  scarcely 
be  estimated  at  much  more  than  two-thirds  of  a  mile  per  hour,  or  one-fortieth  of 
that  of  the  winds  above  them.  In  the  eastern  section  of  the  main  eastern  current 
the  movement  varies  from  15  to  18  miles  in  the  twenty-four  hours.  In  the  central 
parts  of  the  basin,  and  especially  in  the  Sargasso  Sea,  the  speed  slackens,  but  again 
increases  near  the  coast  and  in  the  straits  between  the  archipelagoes.  Although 
weak,  the  movement  of  the  "  trade  waters,"  aided  by  the  corresponding  winds,  is 

-,-:,  Fig.  6.— AtLAKTIO  WlHM  AMD  CUBBKKW.  ^■..     f 

Seal*  1  :  4,000,000.  * 


UOOYwdi. 


none  the  less  of  great  aid  to  vessels  bound  for  the  New  WcH-Id,  and  but  for  these 
favourable  conditions  Columbus  would  certainly  never  have  reached  Guanahani. 
Thanks  also  to  these  currents,  sailing  vessels  have  often  reached  America  when 
their  crews  were  endeavouring  to  gain  the  islands  or  penetrate  into  the  South 
Atlantic  waters.  Nothing  is  more  probable  than  that  in  remote  times  ships  were 
thus  turned  from  their  course,  and  that  Phoenicians,  for  instance,  or  other  invo- 
luntary immigrants  from  the  Old  World,  founded  colonies  in  America.    At  the 


ff 


Su 


14 


WEST  AFfilOA. 


Bame  time  these  conjectures  n'garding  early  epochs  are  oonfirmed  by  no  direct 
evidence,  whereas  in  modem  times  many  instances  have  been  recorded  of  ships 
driven  westwards  by  the  trade  winds  and  corresponding  marine  currents.  Thus  it 
was  that,  in  the  year  1500,  Alvarez  Cabral  discovered  Brazil  when  bound  for  the 
East  Indies.  Yiera  y  Clavijo  relates  that  a  vessel  sailing  from  the  village  of 
Lanzarote,  in  the  Canaries,  stranded  on  the  ooast  of  Venezuela.  In  17-'U  another 
ship  with  a  cargo  of  wine  setting  sail  from  Teneriffo  for  another  island  in  the 
Canaries,  was  driven  westwards  by  a  storm,  at  last  reaching  Port  of  Spain,  in 
Trinidad.  Being  provisioned  only  for  five  or  six  days,  the  crew  had  been  reduced 
to  live  exclusively  on  wine  after  the  supplies  were  exhausted.  On  another  occasion 
a  magistrate  belonging  to  Terceira,  while  endeavouring  to  reach  this  island  from  the 
neighbouring  San-Jorge,  was  driven  all  the  way  to  Brazil,  whence  he  returned  by 
the  Lisbon  route.  ,  ^     .  . 

'    •     Faijna  of  the  AzoRiAH  Basin. — ^The  Sargasso  Sea. 

The  Challenger,  the  Talisman,  the  Magenta,  and  other  vessels  recently  engaged  in 
exploring  the  Atlantic,  have  not  only  brought  back  valuable  information  regarding 
the  temperature,  currents,  and  other  features  of  the  marine  depths,  but  the 
naturalists  accompanying  them  have  paid  special  attention  to  the  organisms 
inhabiting  these  waters.  The  Azorian  Atlantic  having  a  higher  temperature  than 
the  equatorial  seas,  is  extremely  rich  in  animal  life.  Certain  tracts  especially  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Canaries  seem  to  be  alive  with  myriads  of  creatures  of  every 
form  and  colour,  some  opaque  and  almost  invisible,  other  transparent  and  bright 
.  with  the  most  varied  tints.  Cetaceans,  sharks  preceded  by  their  "  pilots  "  (the 
pilot-fish  or  Naucratea  ductor),  and  hundreds  of  other  species,  animate  these  waters. 
Flying-fish  are  often  seen  darting  from  the  crest  of  one  wave  to  another,  where  they 
fall  a  prey  to  their  enemies.  The  nautilus  moves  along  like  a  tiny  ship  studded 
with  white  sails ;  while  below  this  upper  fauna,  which  migrates  northwards  in 
summer,  southwards  in  winter,  naturalists  are  now  studying  a  second  fauna  which 
has  a  far  wider  range,  thanks  to  the  greater  uniformity  of  temperature  at  lower 
depths. 

As  remarked  nearly  a  century  ago  by  Humboldt,  the  sea  is  above  all  a  centre 
of  animal  life,  few  plants  growing  except  on  the  rooky  cliffs  of  the  islands  and 
encircling  continents.  Thus  even  these  have  their  roots  embedded  on  the  terra 
firma.  Nevertheless  the  Azorian  Atlantic  has  also  its  deep-sea  flora,  the  so-called 
sargasso  (sargassum),  formerly  supposed  to  be  a  survival  of  the  vanished  Atlantis, 
a  boundless  plain  of  seaweed  floating  above  the  engulfed  continent.  With  their 
branching  stems,  their  lateral  membranes  resembling  indented  foliage,  their  floats 
almost  like  berries,  these  algso,  or  "  grapes  of  the  tropics"  {Fucu%  natana,  Sargasaum 
bacciferum),  might  easily  be  taken  for  plants  organised  like  those  of  the  dry  land. 
Nevertheless  they  are  mere  weeds  like  those  of  the  surrounding  shores,  in  which 
no  trace  of  reproductive  organs  has  ever  been  detected.  Nor  are  they  so  much 
flotsam,  as  was  once  supposed,  torn  by  the  waves  from  the  West  Indian  and 


TIIE  GUINEA  WATEBS. 


IS 


no  direct 

of  ships 

Thus  it 

i  for  the 

rillago  of 

I  another 

id  in  the 

Spain,  in 

ti  reduced 

r  occasion 

from  the 

turned  by 


n  gaged  in 
regarding 
but    the 
organisms 
ature  than 
pecially  in 
s  of  every 
and  bright 
ilots  "  (the 
tese  waters, 
where  they 
lip  studded 
thwards  in 
mna  which 
■e  at  lower 

all  a  centre 
islands  and 
a  the  terra 
he  so-called 
ed  Atlantis, 
With  their 
their  floats 
r,  Sargasaum 
te  dry  land. 
es,  in  which 
ley  so  much 
Indian  and 


American  coasts,  and  sent  drifting  in  the  everlasting  vortex  of  the  tropical  waters. 
It  was  first  shown  by  Mcycn  in  18<)0,  and  afterwards  fully  conhrmed  by  Lops,  that 
the  berry-bearing  sargasso  is  a  true  oceanic  plant,  producc<l  in  the  scan  where  it  is 
found  covering  thousands  of  square  miles.  A  fissure  near  the  middle  of  the  mature 
plunt  murks  (f«  point  where  the  parent  stem  has  thrown  off  a  younger  branch, 
which  will  in  duo  course  multiply  itself  in  the  same  wuy.  Thus  are  develoj)ed,  not 
vost  "  praderiii*,"  or  iia  mIkws,  as  hyperbolically  described  by  the  early  navigators, 
but  string  of  tuiu>d  weeds  luilowing  in  islands  and  archipelagoes  some  yords  long, 
at  times  son  «  acres  in  oxtnnt,  constantly  changing  their  outlines  under  the  action  of 
the  waves.  Th«y  are  easily  sopii rated  by  the  prows  of  passing  vessels,  for  they 
form  only  a  surface  layer,  nowhere  superi'nposcd  in  thick  masses.  They  disappear 
altogether  to  the  east  of  the  Azores,  abounding  mostly  in  the  regions  WHt  and 
south-west  of  this  archipelago,  whero  they  stretch  across  a  spuco  of  over  fifteen 
degrees  of  latitude  and  longitude,  covering  altogether  an  area  of  about  1,200,000 
square  miles.  Farther  west  near  the  Antilles  there  occurs  another  less  extensive 
Sargasso  Sea,  consisting  of  more  open  herbacious  islets,  with  long  broken  lines  of 
floating  alg'tB  penetrating  between  the  West  Indian  Islands  into  the  Caribbean 
Sea. 

Like  those  of  dry  land,  these  islands  have  also  their  proper  fauna,  all  the 
sargasso  berries  being  thickly  inorusted  with  white  polyzoa.  The  fishes  lurking 
in  their  shade  or  amid  their  tufted  foliage  have  become  assimilated  in  colour  to  the 
protecting  environment ;  hence  they  are  not  easily  detected  even  by  the  naturalist 
among  these  algse,  whose  prevailing  olive-green  hue  is  mingled  with  white  and 
yellow  tints.  The  Antennarius  marmoralua,  one  of  these  fishes,  which  was  at  first 
taken  for  a  shapeless  spray  of  fucus,  from  two  to  four  inches  long,  seems  better 
adapted  for  walking  than  for  swimming.  By  a  strange  coincidence  its  fins,  already 
suggesting  the  extremities  of  quadrupeds,  terminate  in  real  toes,  the  front  fins  also 
taking  the  form  of  arms,  with  elbow,  fore-arm,  and  fingered  hands.  By  means  of 
adhenve  threads  this  curious  creature  builds  itself  nests  in  the  seaweed.  The 
sargasso  fauna  comprises  altogether  sixty  species,  including  fish,  crustaceans,  and 
molluscs.  The  inhabitants  of  the  Azores  might  establish  profitable  fisheries  in 
these  fields  of  floating  wrack,  where  they  would  also  find  inexhaustible  supplies  of 
manure  to  increase  the  fertility  of  their  gardens.  This  growth  might  also  yield 
large  quantities  of  iodine,  bromine,  and  other  valuable  chemical  substances. 

The  Guinea  Waters. 

The  waters  which  bathe  the  west  coast  of  South  Africa  may  be  regarded  as  a 
distinct  basin,  at  least  in  the  form  of  its  bed,  its  system  of  currents,  and  the  insular 
groups  rising  above  its  surface.  Thanks  to  the  numerous  soundings  that  have  been 
taken  in  the  neighboui'hood  of  the  mainland  and  islands,  and  less  frequently  in 
the  high  southern  latitudes  towards  the  Antarctic  regions,  the  relief  of  the  marine 
bed  may  now  be  figured  on  our  charts,  if  not  with  absolute  precision,  with 
sufficient  accuracy  to  reproduce  its  most  salient  features.     The  submerged  ridge 


16 


WEST  AFEICA. 


running  obliquely  from  north-east  to  south-west  across  the  section  between  Liberi:i, 
aud  Brazil,  abruptly  changes  its  direction  uinder  the  latitude  of  Cape  Palmas,  some 
five  degrees  from  the  coast.    Here  the  higher  grounds,  still  however  flooded  to 


Fig.  6.— Depths  of  thk  Sotjth  Afbioam  Atlairio.  js^.^ 

Scale  1  :  tW.OOO^OOO. 


Septhi. 


0  to  1,100 
Fathoms. 


1,100  to  1,6S0 
Fathonu. 


1,680  to  9,300 
Fathoms. 


9,a00  to  3,570 
Fathoms. 


8,760  Fathoms  and 
npwaids. 


Heights. 


0  to  3.800 
Feat. 


8,300  to  6,fl00 
Feet 


6,e00  to  18,M0 
Feet. 


18,S00  Feet  and 
upwards. 


.  1,100  Uiles. 


depths  of  1,400  and  1,700  fathoms,  trend  due  north  and  south  between  the  oceanic 
depression  near  the  African  coast  and  the  still  more  profound  abysses  on  the 
American  side.    This  parting  line,  above  which  rise  the  peak  of  Ascension  and  the 


ssmi 


n«nMn 


.>.Miiii .m'mammtMliAtK 


m 


THE  GUINEA  STEEAM. 


17 


en  LiberL. 
maB,  some 
flooded  U) 


\c 


the  oceanic 
sses  on  the 
don  and  the 


two  insular  groups  of  Tristam  da  Cunba  and  6on9alo  Alvarez,  forms  the  median 
limit  between  the  two  sections  of  the  South  Atlantic.  A  straight  line  drawn 
along  the  meridian  from  Sierra  Leone  to  Tristam  da  Cunha  indicates  exactly  the 
"  great  divide  "  between  the  Guinea  and  Brazilian  basins. 

r^  The  somewhat  quadrilateral  section  comprised  between  this  divide  and  the 
African  seaboard,  and  stretching  north  and  south  from  Cape  Palmas  to  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  is  by  no  means  of  uniform  depth.  It  may  in  fact  be  subdivided  into 
two  secondary  basins  with  cavities  of  over  2,800  fathoms,  one  extending  west  and 
east  parallel  with  the  Gold  and  Slave  Coasts,  the  other  of  nearly  oval  form,  with  its 
greatest  depression  to  the  south-east^  of  St.  Helena.  The  greatest  depth  hitherto 
revealed  in  this  section  of  the  African  waters  is  3,250  fathoms ;  and  the  whole  basin, 
presenting  a  general  depth  of  over  2,200  fathoms  off  the  south-west  coast  of 
Africa,  has  an  area  of  about  2,800,000  square  miles — that  is,  over  twice  that  of  the 
Mediterranean  Sea.  South  of  a  line  running  from  the  mouth  of  the  Orange 
River  to  Tristam  da  Cunha  there  stretches  a  second  basin  also  of  2,200  fathoms, 
limited  southwards  by  the  submarine  heights  on  which  stands  the  island  of 
Bouvet,  and  which  slope  gently  towards  the  coasts  of  the  Antarctic  lauds. 

Currents  of  the  Guinea  Basin. 

In  this  vast  cauldron  of  the  African  seas  the  waters  are  in  continual  motion, 
the  mean  result  of  all  the  shifting  and  ever  opposing  currents  being  a  general 
movement  running  parallel  with  the  coast  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  Cape 
Lopez,  then  trending  westwards  in  the  direction  of  the  New  "World,  and  returning 
by  the  south  and  east  to  complete  this  vast  circuit.  Thus  this  southern  vortex 
corresponds  with  that  of  the  North  Atlantic,  of  which  the  Gulf  Stream  forms  the 
western  branch.  But  its  general  movement  is  reversed,  while  also  presenting 
mere  uniform  outlines,  thanks  tQ*the  greater  regularity  of  its  basin.  Its  mean 
diameter  may  be  estimated  at  2,400  miles,  with  a  varying  velocity  which,  however, 
is  never  very  great  except  imder  the  influence  of  high  winds.  During  her 
voyage  from  the  Cape  Verd  Islands  by  Ascension  to  the  mouth  of  the  Cong^,  the 
Gazelle  found  a  part  of  the  equatorial  current  south  of  the  equator  moving  west- 
wards with  a  velocity  of  1^  mile  per  hour,  whereas  most  other  observations  had 
reconled  a  speed  of  little  over  half  a  mile,  and  in  some  cases  not  more  than  500 
feet.  In  many  parts  of  these  oceanic  regions  there  is  in  fact  no  perceptible 
motion  at  all,  the  whole  mass  accomplishing  itsTvast  circuit  by  a  slow  movement  of 
translation,  while  here  and  there  the  obstruction  of  the  coastline  or  the  local  winds 
produce  secondary  currents  running  in  the  opposite  direction  to  the  main  drift. 

The  Guinea  Stream. 

The  most  powerful  of  these  backwaters  is  that  which  skirts  the  continental 
seaboard  between  Cape  Palmas  and  the  Bight  of  Biafra,  and  which  sets  from 
west  to  east  with  a  mean  velocity  of  a  little  over  two-thirds  of  a  mile  an  hour. 
But  oft  Cape  Palmas  it  attains  an  occasional  speed  of  3^  miles,  or  nearly  90  miles  u 
day.    This  "Guinea  Stream,"  as  sailors  call  it,  intervenes  between  the  two  sections 


18 


WEST  AFRICA. 


of  the  equatorial  current,  which  flow  from  the  Old  towards  the  New  "World,  so 
that  a  vessel  sailing  either  east  or  west  parallel  with  the  equator  may  take 
advantage  either  of  the  main  or  the  counter  current  to  accelerate  its  speed.  The 
Guinea  Stream  shifts  with  the  seasons,  in  September  occupying  more  than  half 
the  breadth  of  the  Atlantic  to  the  south  of  the  Cape  Verd  Islands. 

The  cause  of  this  movement  from  west  to  east  in  the  same  direction  as  that  of 
the  globe  itself,  is  a  question  that  cannot  be  discussed  apart  or  independently  of 
the  still  unsolved  general  problem  of  the  circulation  of  the  oceanic  waters.  The 
part  played  in  these  movements  by  the  rotation  of  the  globe,  by  the  winds,  the 
varying  temperature  from  the  surface  downwards,  the  varying  degrees  of  salinity 

J  Fig  7. — Mkan  AmnrAL  DiHEcnow  of  the  Wnrofl  m  thb  Sotrra  Ajtbioak  Atlamtio. 

Scale  1 :  80.000,000. 


0'. 
5(? 

_            !         ;         i         !         i         !      ^»!i^5?^ 

h^^^^i^**''^       1 

^S^SSJSSSSSSSSSSSS 

--* 

4 

■^ 

4 

\ 

\     NL 

ITT    1/    U 

^^>w 

^^ 

\ 

-^ 

A 

\ 

\ 

\ 

\ 

1 

i 

i 

A 

1 

^» 

\ 

^ 

-^ 

\ 

\ 

\ 

\ 

>i 

/ 

^^^^^^^^^S 
^^^^^^^r 

V 

- 

\ 

\ 

\ 

\ 

N 

I 

K 

-^ 

-> 

-> 

^ 

\ 

\ 

\ 

\ 

\ 

^ 

^ 

^ 

^ 

^ 

1 

\ 

\ 

\ 

^ 

^ 

^ 

^ 

^ 

^ 

-^ 

>l> 

N 

\ 

\ 

H 

^ 

^ 

^ 

■    ■ 

^ 

f 

f 

^ 

1^ 

h 

f 

tc 

% 

^ 

1 

■ 

'" 

50'                                                                                                    O'Miridiinftf  Greenwich 

'  Calm*. 

^  1,M0  MOm. 


The  length  of  the  airowi  indioates  the  freqnency  of  the  winda  in  each  marine  apaM  of  8  degMea. 
The  namber  of  oalms  ia  at  leaat  one  in  ten  daya  in  eaeh  marine  apace  where  the  atroke  ocoupiea  hUf  the  lower  aide  of 
■  Rctungle. 

in  the  intermingling  waters,  cannot  yet  be  determined.  Certainly  none  of  the 
different  theories  suffice  to  explain  all  the  phenomena  observed  by  the  few 
meteorologists  who  have  themselves  visited  these  oceanic  regions.  In  general 
the  Guinea  Stream  is  regarded  as  a  lateral  backwater,  a  "  compensating  current  " 
produced  by  the  reflux  of  the  equatorial  waters.  It  cannot  in  any  case  be 
attributed  to  the  direct  action  of  the  winds,  for  it  flows  in  the  opposite  direction  to 
the  trade  winds  and  monsoons  prevailing  in  these  waters.  Even  off  the  Niger 
delta  and  the  Cameroons,  where  the  Guinea  Stream  trends  souCh-eastwards  and 
then  southwards  till  it  merges  in  the  equatorial  current,  the  movement  is  still 
opposite  to  the  normal  direction  of  the  winds.  To  this  phenomenon  of  the  Guinea 
Stream  running  counter  to  the  winds  and  laterally  pressed  upon  by  another  marine 


mill  II        1 1 


mtrnmiK 


iUHl 


fl^ktmaHaVBrtiin-ti 


World,  so 

may  take 

•eed.     The 

than  half 

I  as  that  of 
ndently  of 
ters.  The 
winds,  the 
of  salinity 

NTIO. 


i 

r 


ch 


he  lomr  tide  of 

lone  of  the 
)y  the  few 
In  general 
g  current " 
ny  case  be 
direction  to 
the  Niger 
twards  and 
lent  is  itill 
the  Guinea 
:her  marine 


THE  GUINEA  STEEAM. 


19 


current  flowing  in  the  opposite  direction,  is  perhaps  to  be  attributed  the  tremendous 
surf,  forming  the  so-called  "  bar,"  which  renders  the  approach  to  the  Guinea  coast 
so  difficult  and  at  times  so  dangerous  between  Cape  Palmas  and  the  Cameroonsi 
A  little  "  Sargasso  Sea  "  like  that  near  the  Antilles  occurs  also  o9  the  mouth  of 
the  Congo  in  the  secondary  vortex  produced  by  the  collision  between  the  Guinea 
Stream  and  the  other  current  flowing  from  the  south  along  the  coast  of  Benguela 
and  Angola. 

AtMOSFH  eric   CuRREN*r8-^RAINFALL — SaLINITY. 

The  anemometric  charts  of  Brault  and  other  observers  show  that  in  the  South 
African  Atlantic  the  mean  annual  direction  of  the  winds  is  marked  by  great 

Fig.  8.— SuiofBB  WiKSS  nr  thb  South  Anixms  Aixantio. 
8aiU«  1  :  80.000,000. 


Hw  ItDgth  of  the  HTOw  indiMtM  Um  ftre^neiior  of  the  ■nmmer  winds  in  eaoh  marine  epeoe  of  6  da^ieee. 
Tbewunberofeebuiiikt  leaat  one  in  flye  daye  in  eeob  nwrine  epiMie  iHiere  the  stroke  oceapiesaU  the  lower  ride  of» 
reetangle. 

regularity.  Storms  properly  so  called  are  extremely  rare,  and  the  *'  general " 
winds — that  is  to  say,  the  south-east  trade  winds — blow  with  such  uniformity  that, 
especially  at  the  time  of  the  solstices,  seafarers  in  these  waters  are  able  to  calculate 
with  great  probability  the  length  of  their  passage.  But  this  regularity  prevails 
only  on  the  high  sea,  as  near  the  coast  the  aerial  currents  are  deflected  inland. 
Above  the  English,  German,  and  Portuguese  possessions  in  South  Africa,  as  well  as 
about  the  coastlands  on  the  Lower  Congo  and  Ogoway,  the  winds  blow  from  the 
south-west  or  else  directly  from  the  west,  whereas  on  the  coasts  to  the  west  of  the 
Cameroons  they  come  from  the  south.  These  are  the  vapour-charged  atmospheric 
currents  which  bring  the  rains  to  the  coastlands,  and  which  deluge  the  Cameroons 


ii^mMiaMseitMMMSI* 


no 


WEST  AFEICA. 


uplands  throughout  the  whole  year.  The  other  elevated  lands  on  this  seaboard 
also  receive  a  large  share  of  the  rainfall,  which  is  nowhere  heavier  in  any  part  of 
the  Atlantic  than  in  this  oceanic  region  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  north-east 
and  south-east  trade  winds  between  the  projecting  coasts  of  West  Africa  and  South 
America.  Here  the  still  air  arrests  the  rain-clouds  brought  by  both  trade  winds, 
the  vapours  are  condensed  and  precipitated  in  tremendous  downpours  on  the 
subjacent  waters.     In  many  places  this  rain  water,  owing  to  its  less  specific 


f 


Fig.. 9. — CvBUBim  or  the  South  Atlantic  and  Limbs  or  Ioxbkbcm. 
Scale  l!87.000b000. 


'•rron 


1.800  lOlM. 


gravity,  spreads  over  the  surface  in  sufficiently  thick  layers  to  enable  passing 
vessels  to  replenish  their  supply  of  fresh  water. 

Although  incessantly  interminglqd  by  the  aerial  and  marine  currents,  the 
waters  of  the  Atlantic  basin  differ  none  the  less  in  their  degree  of  salinity  not  only 
on  the  surface,  but  also  in  the  deeper  strata.  The  most  saline  is  that  encircling 
St.  Helena,  the  specific  gravity  of  which  is  1*0286.  Owing  to  the  heavy  rains  in 
the  region  of  calms  the  proportion  is  lees  in  the  Guinea  Stream,  the  difference 
being  as  much  as  two  or  even  three  thousandths  in  the  north-east  part  of  the 


'immmm^m^Kmtf'iiil'ilft!!! 


itvM»ta-Aann'*l . 


TEMPERATUEE— FAUNA. 


t( 


8  seaboard 
my  part  of 
north-east 
and  South 
rade  winds, 
iirs  on  the 
ess  specific 


Guinea  waters,  with  which  is  mingled  the  discharge  of  the  Niger  and  Congo,  the 
two  African  rivers  which  have  the  g^atest  volume.  In  the  South  Atlantic 
regions  also  the  water  is  less  salt  than  in  the  neighbourhood  of  St.  Helena,  in 
consequence  of  the  melting  of  the  icebergs  and  floating  ice  brought  by  the  oceanic 
currents  from  the  Antarctic  lands.  These  frozen  masses  penetrate  farthest  north 
in  the  months  of  June,  July  and  August,  that  is,  in  the  Austral  winter  season, 
when  these  fantastic  glittering  forms  —  domes,  towers,  obelisks  —  continually 
changing  their  outlines  with  the  displacement  of  the  centre  of  gravity,  are  met  in 
the  Cape  waters,  and  even  as  far  as  35°  S.  latitude.  Farther  south  the  ocean  is 
strewn  with  myriads  of  floating  fragments,  whiph  to  vessels  rounding  the  African 
continent  present  the  appearance  of  an  endless  panorama  of  gorgeous  palaces, 
temples,  colonnades  all  aglow  in  the  fiery  rays  of  the  setting  sun. 


40" 


wich 


oE 


'trron 


kble  passing 

tirrents,  the 
ity  not  only 
it  encircling 
avy  rains  in 
e  difference 
part  of  the 


Temperature — Fauna. 

.:__  While  diminishing  the  salinity,  these  icy  crystals  also  considerably  lower  the 
temperature  of  the  liquid  masses  flowing  from  the  equatorial  regions.  Between 
the  Cameroons  and  the  Cape  there  is  noticed  on  the  surface  a  gradual  decrease  of 
heat,  corresponding  to  that  which  also  takes  place  in  the  atmospheric  strata.  The 
isothermal  lines  follow  with  considerable  regularity  from  82°  F.  on  the  Slave 
Coast  to  59°  towards  the  southern  extremity  of  the  continent.  But  in  the  deeper 
layers  the  vertical  decrease  down  to  the  bed  of  the  ocean  presents  some  remark- 
able contrasts,  due  to  the  inflow  from  the  broad  Antarctic  seas  to  the  gradually 
narrowing  Atlantic  basin.  Of  these  contrasts  the  most  striking  is  the  relatively 
low  temperature  of  the  equatorial  waters.  Taking  the  mean  of  the  liquid  mass 
lying  under  the  equator  between  Africa  and  America,  the  average  for  the  tepid 
surface  and  cool  deep  waters  is  found  to  be  about  41°  F.,  that  is  to  say,  con- 
siderably less  than  a  degree  higher  than  that  of  the  tracts  stretching  to  ^3° 
S.  latitude.  On  the  other  hand  these  same  equatorial  waters  are  fully  four 
degrees  colder  than  those  of  the  north  temperate  zone  under  33°  N.  latitude. 
This  surprising  contrast,  attesting  the  great  preponderance  of  the  Antarctic  over 
the  Arctic  current,  occurs  regularly  in  each  of  the  isothermal  zones  between  th^^ 
two  sections  of  the  Atlantic  lying  north  and  south  of  the  equator.  At  equal 
depths  the  greatest  differences  of  temperature  are  recorded.  Thus,  under 
33^  N.  latitude,  a  sounding-line  500  fathoms  long  records  a  mean  of  about 
50"  F.,  while  at  the  same  distance  to  the  south  of  the  equator  the  average 
is  found  to  be  (mly  39"  F.,  showing  a  difference  of  eleven  degrees  between  the 
two  corresponding  latitudes.  The  temperature  falls  slightly  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  coast,  owing  to  the  steady  iuflux  of  deep  sea  currents.  In  some  places  a 
difference  of  three  degrees  has  been  observed  between  the  in-shore  and  outer 
'Waters  within  a  distance  of  a  few  miles. 

The  abrupt  changes  of  temperature  in  the  South  Atlantic  serve  to  limit  the 
range  of  animal  life,  and  to  modify  its  outlines  with  the  seasons.  The  deep-sea 
species  living  at  great  depths  in  a  uniform  cold  medium,  can,  of  course,  extend 


mm 


22 


WEST  AFRICA. 


I 


their  domain  from  the  Arctic  to  the  Antarctic  Ocean,  but  it  is  very  different  with 
the  cetaceans  and  other  animals  confined  more  to  the  surface  waters.  Thus  the 
southern  whales,  till  recently  very  numerous  in  the  tracts  stretching  west  and 
south-west  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  as  far  as  the  small  Tristam  da  Cunha  Archi- 
pelago, never  reach  the  latitude  of  St.  Helena.  According  to  Maury's  expression, 
they  are  arrested  by  the  tepid  tropical  waters  as  by  a  "  wall  of  6ames."  The 
Lusitanian  and  Mediterranean  species  in  the  same  way  diminish  gradiially  south- 
wards, as  do  also  those  of  the  West  Indies.  Nevertheless,  a  large  number  of  the 
latter  are  still  met  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Ascension,  in  the  very  centre  of  the  South 
Atlantic.  About  the  river  mouths  again  animal  life  is  much  more  abimdant  than 
in  the  open  sea.  As  we  approach  the  Congo  estuary  the  number  of  fishes  inhabit- 
ing the  surface  waters  steadily  increases,  causing  a  corresponding  increase  of  the 
phosphorescence  visible  at  night,  notwithstanding  the  diminution  of  salinity  caused 
by  the  great  volume  of  fresh  water  discharged  by  the  Congo. 


:m"i'i'ii"l''iJll>J"Wriifrii.J>Mnirirjii;,i(n»(>>MiJ|lJ»HMi))UI(i||i||||i||MU;WytlMiJ.Jii^lt  mm 


_v_/-^    -^*_ 


£ferent  with 
Thus  the 
g  west  and 
inha  Archi- 
I  expression, 
mes."  The 
ually  south- 
mher  of  the 
of  the  South 
indant  than 
hes  inhahit- 
rease  of  the 
inity  caused 


CHAPTER  II. 

WEST  AFRICAN  ISLANDS. 
The  Azores. 


HE  Azores,  or  "  Hawk "  Islands,  are  the  most  oceanic  of  all  the 
Atlantic  archipelagoes.  Rising  from  abysses  some  2J  miles  deep, 
San-Miguel,  their  easternmost  point,  lies  830  miles  due  west  of  the 
Portuguese  Cape  Roca,  and  930  miles  from  Cape  Cantin,  the  most 
advanced  headland  on  the  Marocco  coast.  The  archipelago  is 
still  farther  removed  from  the  New  World,  Corvo,  the  north-westernmost  islet, 
being  over  1,000  miles  distant  from  Cape  Race  in  Newfoundland,  the  nearest 
American  headland,  2,400  miles  from  St.  Thomas,  at  the  north-east  angle  of  the 
Antilles,  and  1,800  from  the  Bermudas,  which,  although  lying  in  deep  water, 
may  still  be  regarded  as  belonging  geographically  to  America. 

Disposed  in  three  groups  of  unequal  aize,  the  Azores  are  scattered  over  nearly 
three  degrees  of  latitude  and  more  than  six  of  longitude  ;  but  of  this  vast  marine 
area,  about  80,000  square  miles  in  extent,  the  space  occupied  by  dry  land  is 
extremely  small,  all  the  islands  together  having  an  area  of  scarcely  more  than 
1,000  square  miles.  The  population,  however,  is  relatively  greater  than  that  of 
the  mother  country,  Portugal,  exceeding  two  hundred  to  the  square  nule,  although 
there  is  much  waste  and  uninhabitable  land  on  the  upper  slopes  and  about  the 
volcanic  cones. 

Since  the  middle  of  the  fourteenth  century,  that  is  to  say,  eighty  years  before 
they  were  first  visited  by  the  Portuguese,  the  Azores  were  already  known  to  the 
Mediterranean  seafarers  navigating  the  dreaded  waters  of  the  "  Mare  Tenebrosum," 
or  "  Gloomy  Sea."  A  Florentine  document,  dated  1351,  already  presents  a  conect 
outline  of  the  whole  group,  except  that  they  are  turned  in  the  direction  from 
north  to  south  instead  of  from  south-west  to  north-east.  Two  of  the  islands  have 
even  preserved,  in  slightly  modified  form,  their  Italian  names ;  the  farthest  removed 
from  Europe,  after  having  been  called  the  Insula  de  Corvis  Marinis,  has  become  the 
Ilha  do  Corvo,  or  "  Raven  Island ;  "  while  San-Zorze,  whose  very  name  shows  that 
it  was  a  Genoese  discovery,  has  taken  the  Spanish  appellation  of  San-Jorge.  The 
Azores  were  first  sighted  in  1431  by  the  Portuguese  while  occupied  with  the 


iiMii|i!HiWjMi»'»i.a 


nui 


HHii 


i4 


WEST  AFEICA. 


systematic  exploration  of  the  Atlantic,  which  constitutes  their  title  to  renown 
during  the  age  of  the  great  nautical  expeditions.  On  this  occasion  they  saw 
nothing  but  the  reefs  of  Formigas  between  San-Miguel  and  Santa-Maria ;  but 
Gon9alo  Velho  Cabral^  returning  to  these  waters  next  year,  discovered  Santa-Muria 
itself,  which  Don  Henri  presented  to  him  as  a  tief.  Twelve  years  afterwards  he 
landed  on  San-Miguel,  the  chief  island  in  the  archipelago,  which  he  also  received 
in  vassalage  under  the  Portuguese  crown.  The  eastern  group  of  Cabrera,  or  Las 
Cabras,  had  already  formed  part  of  geographical  nomenclature,  but  another  twenty 
years  passed  before  the  last  of  the  nine  members  of  the  group  was  finally  sur* 
veyed.  '  r::-..ov.' '  ■..'.v^.-s' 

Although  scattered  over  a  vast  space,  the  islands  have  many  features  in 
common.  All  are  hilly  and  dominated  by  volcanic  craters  whence  lava  streams 
have  been  discharged,  and  all  terminate  seawards  in  rugged  masses  of  black  scoria 

Rg.  10.— VoLO*w'0  Axre  of  thb  Azobes. 


Depthi. 


Oto8,800Kaet.  8  SOO  Feet  and  npwaida. 

O  Snlwitziiie  VoIouioml 


presenting  a  forbidding  aspect.  With  the  exception  of  Santa-Maria,  at  the  south- 
eastern extremity,  which  contains  some  limestone  beds  dating  from  the  Miocene 
period,  all  are  composed  exclusively  of  ashes,  scoriae,  and  lavas.  Oeog^phically 
they  form  three  perfectly  distinct  groups,  of  which  the  easternmost  is  the  largest, 
although  comprising  only  the  two  islands  of  San-Miguel  and  Santa-Maria,  with  the 
reefs  of  Formigas,  which  may  be  regarded  as  the  crests  of  a  submerged  rocky  islet. 
The  central  group  consists  of  five  members — ^Terceira,  which  has  at  times  given 
its  name  to  the  whole  archipelago ;  Graciosa,  San-Jorg^,  Pico,  and  Faval.    The 


immmaem 


i«w«w»9W»Mir    '^"'     iff^,  •■?M«!<M,' 


tt9*^iVfi'T  ■:-5»-!-A-"'H,":fTVWVI^.ieW,-V  ?"^'^"T%^;-?-yi 


3  renown 
they  saw 
aria;  but 
ata-Maria 
rwards  he 
a  received 
ra,  or  Las 
,er  twenty 
nally  eur- 

jatures  in 
ira  streams 
Lack  scoria 


t  the  south- 
he  Miocene 
)graphically 
the  largest, 
ria,  with  the 

rocky  islet. 

times  given 
♦"aval.    The 


CLIMATE  OF  THE  AZORES. 


M 


western  group,  least  in  extent,  population  and  historical  importance,  comprises 
only  the  two  remote  islets  of  Flores  and  Corvo,  which  are  alone  disposed  in  the 
direction  from  north  to  south,  all  the  others  forming  volcanic  chains  running 
north-west  and  south-east.  A  comprehensive  study  of  the  whole  archipelago 
shows  that  it  constitutes  three  such  parallel  chains  equidistant  from  each  other, 
the  first  formed  by  Graciosa,  Terceira,  and  8an-3"  -uol,  the  second,  or  central,  by 
Corvo,  San- Jorge,  and  the  Formigas,  the  third,  or  aouthemmost,  by  Flores,  Fayal, 
Pico,  and  Santa- Maria.  The  regular  parallelism  is  perhaps  to  be  attributed  to 
successive  eruptions  occurring  on  fractures  or  crevasses  in  submerged  ridges 
aligned  in  the  direction  from  north-west  to  south-east. 

The  lavas  of  the  Azores  are  much  more  recent  than  those  of  Madeira  and  the 
Canaries,  none  appearing  to  be  older  than  the  Miocene  period,  that  is,  the.  epoch 
whence  date  the  limestone  formations  of  Santa-Maria.  At  present  the  volcanic 
activity,  if  not  extinct,  is  at  least  very  quiescent  at  the  two  extremities,  that  is,  on 
the  one  hand  in  Santa-Maria  and  the  eastern  part  of  San-Miguel,  on  the  other 
in  the  Flores  and  Corvo  group.  But  the  fires  still  rage  under  the  central  islands, 
especially  under  the  volcano  of  Pico,  and  still  more  fiercely  in  the  western  part  of 
San-Miguel.  Here  have  occurred  all  the  most  terrible  catastrophes,  eruptions, 
and  earthquakes  during  the  four  centuries  that  constitute  the  historic  period  of 
the  Azores. 

Indications  of  upheaval  are  visible  in  Terceira,  where  the  beach,  although 
composed  entirely  of  volcanic  rocks,  is,  at  certain  points,  strewn  with  boulders  of 
crystalline  and  sedimentary  origin,  such  as  granites,  quartz,  schists,  sandstones, 
and  limestones.  These  foreign  fragments  have  evidently  been  deposited  on  the 
strand,  but  are  now  scattered  to  a  distance  of  over  half  a  mile  inland  in  sufficient 
abundance  to  be  used  by  the  peasantry,  with  detached  blocks  of  lava,  in  the  con- 
struction of  their  enclosures.  On  Santa-Mcria  are  also  found  some  fragments 
of  gneiss,  the  origin  of  which  it  is  difficult  to  determine.  The  great  depth  of  the 
surrounding  waters  excludes  the  idea  that  they  might  have  been  torn  from  some 
surviving  reefs  of  the  submerged  Atlantis.  Nor  are  these  blocks  rounded  like  the 
shingle  long  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  waves,  but  have  for  the  most  part  pre- 
served the  sharp  outlines  and  freshness  of  their  breakage.  Hartung  supposes 
that  they  may  have  been  brought  during  the  glacial  period  from  America,  where, 
under  the  same  latitude,  the  glaciers  deposited  their  moraines,  while  detached 
boulders  were  carried  with  the  drift  ice  to  the  Azores. 

Climate. 

All  these  islands  enjoy  an  equable  and  healthy  climate,  which  would  seem 
almost  perfect  but  for  the  violence  of  the  Atlantic  gales.  Notwithstanding  the 
sudden  shifting  of  the  winds,  the  changes  of  temperature  are  very  slight,  the 
seasons  following  each  other  without  any  marked  transitions.  Autumn  especially 
delights  the  visitor,  although  the  leafy  groves  lack  those  varied  tints  which  at 
that  period  are   characteristic  of  the  European,  and  still  more  of  the  North 

66— AP 


ni 


'i 


■ 


M  WEST  AFRICA. 

American  scenery.  The  annual  rang^  of  temperature  from  season  to  season 
scarcely  exceeds  14°  F.,  although  at  Ilorta  M.  de  Bettencourt  recorded  a  diCfer- 
ence  of  over  45*^  (42'  to  87°)  between  the  hottest  and  the  coldest  day  in  the 
whole  year.  The  chief  climatic  changes  are  due  to  the  direction  of  the  winds,  the 
Azores  lying  as  nearly  as  possible  in  the  intermediate  zone  between  the  trade  and 
counter  winds.  When  the  southern  breezes  prevail  it  is  warm  and  moist,  becom- 
ing cool  and  dry  when  the  wind  shifts  to  the  north.  Hence  a  notable  contrast 
between  the  two  slopes  of  the  islands,  one  being  exposed  to  the  balmy  zephyrs  and 
rains  of  the  south,  the  other  to  the  northern  atmospheric  currents.  Thus  in  the 
Azores  the  climatic  conditions  are  determined  less  by  latitude  than  by  the  aspect 
of  the  land. 

In  general  the  Azorian  climate  presents  a  mean  between  those  of  Lisbon  and 
Malaga  on  the  one  hand,  and  that  of  Madeira  on  the  other.  Between  the  latter 
island  and  Fayal  the  yearly  temperature  differs  only  by  about  two  degrees,  but  in 
the  Azores  the  range  from  winter  to  summer  is  relatively  considerable.  Lying 
350  miles  nearer  to  the  pole,  they  have  a  colder  winter  but  als«)  a  hotter  summer 
than  Madeira,  although  the  heat  is  never  so  g^eat  as  on  the  mainland  of  Portugal 
lying  under  the  same  latitude.  Altogether  the  Azorian  climate  is  more  extreme 
than  that  of  Madeira,  and  much  less  agreeable  for  strangers.  S'ow  is  rarely  seen 
in  the  lower  valleys,  but  hail  often  falls  during  the  winter  sti>r;i's,  and  at  times 
the  hills  remain  for  a  few  hours  wrapped  in  white.  It  also  freezes  on  the  higher 
grounds,  and  in  San-Miguel  people  are  said  to  have  perished  of  cold  on  the 
plateaux,  rising  3,000  feet  above  sea-level.  At  the  same  time  strangers  are  much 
more  sensitive  to  the  cold,  in  consequence  of  the  high  gales  and  moist  atmosphere. 
The  rainfall  due  to  the  great  oceanic  winds  is  very  abundant,  being  at  least  twice 
as  heavy  as  in  Madeira.  At  Horta  M.  de  Bettinoourt  recorded  u  hundred  and 
ninety-six  rainy  days  and  eight  of  hail,  with  a  ^utal  rainfall  of  62  inches.  It 
rains  in  all  seasons,  but  especially  in  winter  when  the  west  winds  prevail,  and 
notwithstanding  their  steep  incline,  many  of  the  mountain  slopes  are  clothed  with 
mosses  and  turf,  resembling  the  peat  bogs  of  Ireland.  The  rainfall,  however, 
diminishes  from  west  to  east,  Santa- Maria,  the  easternmost,  being  also  the  drieHt 
island  of  the  group.  To  protect  themselves  from  the  moisture  aud  from  sunstroke, 
always  to  be  feared  in  damp  climates,  the  peasantry  in  all  the  islands  wear  a  sort 
of  cloth  hood,  covering  head  aud  shoulders,  and  somewhat  resembling  the  "  sou'- 
westers"  worn  by  sailors. 

Flora. 

Compared  with  that  of  Modeira  and  the  Canaries,  the  indigenous  flora  is  very 
poor.  In  the  whole  archipelago  Watson  discovered  only  three  hundred  and 
ninety-six  flowering  and  seventy-five  ilowerless  plants,  mostly  belong^fig  to 
European  species.  One-eighth  nf  the  plants  are  common  also  either  to  the  other 
Atlantic  groups,  or  to  Africa  and  America,  leaving  not  more  than  fifty  species 
peculiar  to  the  Azores,  amongst  them  a  cherry,  which  has  become  very  rare,  aud 
which  would  have  probably  disappeared  hod  it  not  been  introduced   into  the 


wmmmm 


ammm 


FLORA  OP  THl 


to  season 
1  a  differ- 
day  in  the 

winds,  the 
I  trade  and 
list,  becom- 
le  contrast 
ephyrs  and 
hus  in  the 
'  the  aspect 

Lisbon  and 
a  the  latter 
rees,  but  in 
>le.  Lying 
ter  summer 
of  Tortugal 
)re  exlreme 

rarely  seen 
ad  at  times 
t  the  higher 
cold  on  the 
rs  are  much 
atmosphere. 

least  twice 
luudred  and 

inches.  It 
prevail,  and 
slothed  with 
11,  however, 
so  the  driewt 
n  sunstroke, 
i  wear  a  sort 
g  the  "  sou'- 


flora  is  very 
lundred  and 
)elongiAg  to 
to  the  other 
fifty  species 
ery  rare,  and 
ced   into  the 


II  ^ 


ppoaltd  to  by  tho» 
of  Kurope.     Henc* 
iMiropeai 
learly  a' 
ure  to      r 
ally    trm  , 
th    'rtuiiiffy 


gardens.  The  decided  predominance  of  the  Eti  oeaii  llora  ' 
geographers  who  claim  the  Azores  as  a  natui  t  dependci 
the  term  "  Western  Islands  "  applied  to  them  b  ^^nglish  m  inerH 
lands  lying  farther  west  than  all  others.  Even  the  indigcn<»ts  h^ r 
resemble  European  types,  so  that  the 'question  arises  whether  il 
regarded  as  independent  species,  or  merely  simple  varieties  gv> 
formed  by  isolation.  Nor  is  it  any  longer  always  possible  to  say  \ 
whether  those  common  also  to  Europe  have  been  introduced  intentionally  ur  uncon- 
sciously, or  whether  they  form  part  of  the  native  flora  assimilated  by  anidogous 
surroundings. 

iThe  original  flora  includes  not  more  than  five  trees,  and  five  or  perhaps  six 
shrubs,  all  inferior  tin  size  to  the  allied  plants  in  Madeira  and  the  Canaries. 
The  palm  family,  so  characteristic  of  the  tropical  regions,  was  absent  ut  the  time 
of  the  discQvery,  the  prevailing  vegetable  forms  being  grasses,  reeds,  sed^-^e,  ferns, 
all  suitable  to  a  moist  climate.  At  the  arrival  of  the  Europeans  the  nillsides 
were  clothed  with  timber.  Fayal,  that  is  the  "  Beech  Grove,"  owed  its  name  to 
the  forests  of  Myrka  faya,  which  the  mariners  mistook  for  beech-trees.  Graciosa 
and  Flores  were  also  indebted  to  their  beautiful  flora  for  these  appellations,  and 
even  so  recently  as  the  present  century  Flores  still  possessed  magnificent  groves  of 
the  yew,  all  of  which  have  since  been  cut  down.  In  many  parts  may  also  still  be 
seen  huge  trunks, almost  concealed  beneath  the  mosses  and  other  lower  growtho, 
while  others  have  been  partly  covered  by  the  lavas.  The  most  remarkable  of  the 
woody  plants  on  the  elevated  lands  are  the  faya,  or  "  la\irel  of  the  Canaries,"  and 
a  species  of  juniper  ( Jtiniperua  oxi/cedrm)  spoken  of  by  the  natives  as  a  cedar.  It 
is  the  only  conifer  in  the  archipelago,  where  it  is  found  usually  associated  with 
the  arboreecent  heaths  and  myrsinse  of  African  origin. 

The  heights,  being  now  destitute  of  fine  timber,  mostly  present  a  sombre  and 
monotonous  aspect,  while  the  ravines  and  lower  valleys  still  reveal  a  varied  and 
picturesque  vegetation.  For  although  large  trees  have  nearly  everywhere  dis- 
appeared from  the  open  tracts,  all  parts  of  the  archipelago  where  the  scoria  had 
not  acquired  a  metallic  hardness  are  clothed  with  verdure.  Thanks  to  their 
uniform  and  moist  climate,  the  Azores  are  well  adapted  for  experiments  in 
acclimatisation.  A  large  number  of  species  from  the  tropical  and  temperate 
regions  of  Australia,  the  Old  and  New  Worlds,  have  already  been  introduced,  and 
thrive  admirably  in  this  "natural  conserratmry.'*  Hence  the  taste  for  pleasure- 
grounds  developed  among  the  wealthy  natives.  In  a  few  brief  years  they  see 
their  pcplars,  eucalyptuses,  casuurinas  springing  up  to  a  height  of  40  or  even  60 
feet,  although  still  seldom  rivalling  in  size  their  congeners  in  Europe,  the  Canaries, 
and  elsewhere.  In  the  gardens  of  Fayal  and  San-Miguel  the  native  shrubberies 
have  been  replaced  by  thickets  in  which  the  oak,  beech,  and  lime  of  Europe  inter- 
mingle their  foliage  with  the  taxodium  (cypress)  of  Louisiana,  the  Virginian  tulip- 
tree,  the  Brazilian  araucaria,  the  cedars  of  Lebanon  and  the  Himalayas,  the 
camphor  of  Japan,  the  Australian  acacia,  and  the  palms  of  both  hemispheres.  The 
fruit-trees  and  cultivated  plants  from  the  Portuguese  orchards  and  arable  lands. 


il<ll  ll  I    -* 


1 1 


ii  WEST  AFBICA. 

the  bananas  and  entete  of  Ethiopia  are  invading  the  ooastlands,  while  the  European 


weeds  are  driving  to  the  uplands  or  exterminating  the  old  indigenous  vegetation. 


saHUi 


)  European 


INHABITANTS  OF  THE  AZORES.  M 

Efforta  have  also  been  made  to  re-plont  the  waste  Bpaces  and  higher  fclopes  of  the 
mountains.  In  this  way  the  whole  of  8an-Migaol  has  betiomo  a  garden  of 
acclimatiBation,  in  which  a  thousand  arborescent  species  have  been  naturalised,  and 
in  some  cases  multiplied  prodigpiously.  Amongst  the  most  valuable  forest-trees 
thus  introduced  are  the  marine  tir,  the  Japanese  cryptomeria,  the  eucalyptus,  acacia, 
e^  press,  and  oak.  ,^ -m  :  ^       .s:'  ,v,;  ,    ■  ,.  .: -r 

Fauna. 

The  indigenous  fauna  is  much  poorer  than  the  flora  of  the  Azores.  On  the 
tirst  arrival  of  the  Europeans  it  comprised  no  vertebiates  except  birds,  although 
some  writers  speak  of  a  bat  found  also  in  North  Europe.  But  this  animal  was 
perhaps  introduced  from  Flanders  by  the  Belgian  settlers  in  the  sixteenth 
century.  From  Europe  also  came  the  rabbit,  the  ferret,  the  ^veasel,  the  black 
rat  that  nesta  in  trees,  the  grey  rat,  and  mouse  Of  birds  there  are  about  thirty 
species,  some  remaining  throughout  the  year,  some  migrating,  but  nearly  all 
common  to  Europe,  or  at  least  the  Atlantic.  The  green  cane  ry  was  formerly  very 
common,  but  has  been  proscribed  as  a  great  destroyer  of  cor  i.  The  bird  whence 
the  archipelago  takes  its  name  of  the  Azores,  or  "  Hawk  "  Is.anda,  appears  not  to 
be  a  hawk  at  all,  but  a  species  of  buz/ard.  There  are  no  reptiles,  except  two 
species  of  lizard  found  in  Graciosa,  where  they  are  recent  arrivals,  perhaps  from 
Madeira.  The  frog,  also  a  stranger,  has  multiplied  rapidly,  while  the  toad, 
brought  from  the  United  States,  has  failed  to  become  aci-limatised.  The  iifrican 
locusts  have  occasionally  alighted  in  swarms  and  devoured  the  .^rops.  There  are 
fresh- water  eels,  but  no  river  molluscs,  although  as  many  as  sixty-nine  species  of 
land  molluscs  have  been  found,  nearly  half  of  whicl  occur  nowhere  else.  They 
represent,  with  six  varieties  of  coleoptera,  nearly  all  the  primitive  Azorian  fauna. 
Even  marine  shells  are  extremely  rare,  and  in  some  places  one  may  walk  for  miles 
along  the  beach  without  meeting  with  a  single  specimen.  The  deep-sea  fauna  is 
represented  chiefly  by  the  cetaceans,  porpoise,  dolphin,  spermaceti  and  Phyaeter 
maeroeephalua,  the  last  named  formerly  very  numerous,  and  of  which  about  a 
hundred  and  fifty  are  still  annually  captured  by  the  American  whalers. 

Inhabitants. 

When  first  visited  by  the  Italian  and  Portuguese  navigators,  the  Azores  were 
found  to  be  uninhabited.  The  pioneers  of  the  colony  founded  in  1444  by  Qon9alo 
Velho  Cabral  on  San-Miguel  were  some  "  Moors,"  sent  forward,  so  to  say,  to  test 
the  climate  and  resources  of  the  country  for  the  Portuguese  who  were  to  follow 
them.  Afterwards  the  large  owners  of  feudal  estates  introduced  with  the  white 
peasantry  a  certain  number  of  black  slaves,  by  whom  a  slight  strain  of  dark  blood 
was  transmitted  to  the  other  settlers.  The  Jews  expelled  from  Portugal  at  the 
beginning  of  the  sixteenth  century  were  also  condemned  to  slavery  and  distributed 
over  various  districts  in  San-Miguel.  Some  thousand  Flemish  colonists  introduced 
into  the  central  group  by  Jobst  va* .  Huerter  gave  the  name  of  "  Flemish  Islands  " 


■"%^ 


mm 


80 


WEST  AFRICA. 


to  the  whole  archipelago,  while  Fayal  was  more  specially  named  "  New  Flanders." 
In  1622  there  still  survived  some  Belgian  families  with  the  characteristic  features 
of  their  race  ;  but  they  had  ceased  to  speak  Flemish,  and  had  even  changed  their 
patronymic  names  into  Portuguese  forms.  Thus  the  Van  der  Haegens,  great  land- 
owners in  San-Jorge,  assumed  the  familiar  Portuguese  appellation  of  Da  Silva. 
Many  shipwrecked  mariners  of  other  nations  also  became  merged  in  the  general 
population,  in  which  the  Portuguese  enjoy  such  a  decided  predominance  that  all 
these  foreign  elements  may  safely  be  neglected. 

But  whence  comes  the  great  bulk  of  these  Portuguese  themselves  P  Little  can 
bo  gleaned  on  this  point  from  official  documents,  or  the  conflicting  evidence  of 
physical  types,  dialects,  popular  songs,  local  usages,  and  the  like.  Some  authori- 
ties bring  the  San-Miguel  islanders  from  the  province  of  Minho,  in  North  Portugal, 
others  from  Algarve,  in  the  extreme  south.  In  any  case  the  Azorians  are  far  from 
presenting  a  uniform  type,  the  greatest  variety  being  presented  by  the  different 
communities  throughout  the  archipelago.  They  are  generally  under-sized,  with 
rather  coarse  features,  large  mouth,  thick  lips,  ill- shaped  nose,  and  cranial  capacity 
decidedly  inferior  to  that  of  the  average  European,  although  the  Azorians  are 
said  by  some  authorities  to  hold  their  own  in  science  and  literature  with  their 
continental  fellow-countrymen.  In  the  form  of  the  head  and  physical  charac- 
teristics they  forcibly  recall  the  "  Celtic  "  type  of  Auvergne  and  Brittany  as 
described  by  Broca  and  other  French  anthropologists.  By  a  curious  coiucidonce, 
the  village  of  San- Miguel,  noted  for  a  French  pronunciation  of  certain  syllables, 
also  bears  the  name  of  Bretanha,  like  the  Armorican  peninsula.  On  the  other 
hand  the  Santa- Maria  dialect  is  distinguished  beyond  all  others  for  its  numerous 
archaic  expressions. 

Although  by  no  means  of  a  fanatical  disposition,  the  Azorians  are  very 
religious,  the  frequent  earthquakes  tending  to  foster  that  sentiment  of  fear  which 
theologians  hold  to  be  "the  beginning  of  wisdom."  At  every  shock  the  natives 
rush  for  safety  to  the  churches,  and  it  is  related  that  on  one  occasion  after  an 
agrarian  rising,  an  earthquake  having  overthrown  some  houses  in  the  village  of 
Povoa9ao,  the  terrified  people  immediately  fell  on  their  kneen  with  loud  cries  of 
repentance  and  supplications  to  the  landowners  for  pardon.  The  miraculous 
images  are  visited  by  countless  pilgrims,  and  their  shrines  enriched  with  offerings. 
An  Ecce  Homo  in  the  Ponta-Delgada  convent  is  specially  renowned  for  its 
wonder-working  powers  not  only  throughout  the  archipelago,  but  even  in  Portugal 
and  Brazil.  But  despite  their  religious  fervour,  there  is  a  less  variety  of  supersti- 
tions among  them  than  in  the  mother-country,  which  may  be  due  to  a  less  vivid 
imagination  produced  by  their  monotonous  lives,  uneventful  history,  poor  surround- 
ings, and  absence  of  ancient  mcmum^ts. 

Rapid  intellectual  changes  are  now  also  taking  place  in  this  hitherto  secluded 
community,  thanks  to  the  long  voyages  made  by  the  emigrants  and  those  engaged 
in  the  whale  fisheries.  Thousands  have  already  visited  Portugal,  Brazil,  the 
West  Indies,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  the  Arctic  Seas,  and  no  other  insular 
population  probably  contains  so  large  a  proportion  of  men  who  have  made  the 


INHABITANTS  OP  THE  AZORES. 


»l 


r  Flanders." 
stic  features 
langed  their 
,  great  land* 
.f  Da  Silva.  % ; 
the  general 
nee  that  all  V : 

Little  can 
evidence  of 
)me  authori- 
th  Portugal, 
are  far  from 
;he  different 
ir- sized,  with 
aial  capacity 
\.zorians  are 
re  with  their 
sical  charac* 
Brittany  as 
coiucidonce, 
in  syllables. 
On  the  other 
its  numerous 

ns  are  very 
f  fear  which 
[  the  natives 
sion  after  an 
he  village  of 
oud  cries  of 
miraculous 
ith  offerings, 
nrned  for  its 
1  in  Portugal 
y  of  supersti- 
0  a  loss  vivid 
3or  surround- 

erto  secluded 
hose  engaged 
I,  Brazil,  the 
other  insular 
,ve  made  the 


tour  of  the  world.  Amongst  the  rural  classes  marriage  is  nearly  always  an  affair 
of  pure  convenience  and  interest.  A  few  traces  still  survive  of  the  former 
seclusion  of  the  women,  noticeable  in  the  construction  of  the  houses  and  especially 
in  the  costume.  Enveloped  in  their  large  hooded  cloaks,  the  Azoriuu  women  seem 
to  flit  about  like  phantoms.  Many  of  these  hoods  are  still  so  contrived  as  to  meet 
in  front,  leaving  only  a  narrow  opening  for  the  wearer  with  which  to  see  without 
being  seen.  In  the  district  of  San  Miguel  the  wife,  when  paying  a  visit  or  going 
to  mass,  may  not  walk  by  the  side  of  her  husband,  who  struts  majestically  a  few 

Fig.  12.— 'WoxEN  OP  Fatal  and  Sas-Miouel.  '      ' '        ' 


lica 


paces  in  front.  Formerly  the  ladies  in  the  towns  could  not  even  go  abroad  to 
make  their  purchases,  but  had  to  do  all  their  shopping  at  home,  never  leaving  the 
female  apartments  except  to  visit  the  church.  At  the  approach  of  a  man  it  was 
even  etiquette  to  turn  towards  the  wall  in  order  to  avoid  a  profane  glance. 

The  population  increases  rapidly  by  natural  excess  of  births  over  the  mortality, 
families  being  very  numerous,  and  the  death-rate  amongst  children  relatively 
extremely  low.  At  the  same  time  the  survival  even  of  the  weaker  offspring  tends 
apparently  to  bring  about  a  general  degradation  of  the  race,  and  men  are  no 


n] 


I 


M  WEST  AFRICA.  ■-'- 

longer  seen  in  the  archipelago  at  all  comparable  to  the  sturdy  peasantry  of  North 
Portugal.  Epidemics  occasionally  break  out,  and  the  old  chroniclers  speak  of 
"  pestilence,"  which  in  combination  with  the  Moorish  corsairs  laid  waste  the  rising 
settlements.  At  present  gastric  and  typhoid  fevers  are  endemic,  although  their 
virulence  is  much  diminished  by  the  topographic  distribution  of  the  towns  and 
villages.  Trade  has  given  rise  to  few  large  centres  of  population,  the  houses 
mostly  following  in  long  straggling  lines  around  the  island,  and  thus  enjoying 
the  invigorating  influence  of  the  sea  breezes.  The  diet  also  is  at  once  simple  and 
strengthening,  large  quantities  of  maize  bread  being  consumed  with  all  the  other 
aliments,  such  as  vegetables,  fruits,  and  fish.  "  To  be  well  fed,  take  all  with 
bread,"  says  the  local  proverb. 

Although  very  fertile,  and  in  all  the  islands  well  tilled  to  a  height  of  over 
1,600  feet,  the  land  no  longer  suffices  for  the  support  of  the  ever-growing  popula- 
tion. This  result  must  be  mainly  attributed  to  the  distribution  of  the  landed 
estates.  At  the  time  of  Hunt's  visit  in  1840  the  number  of  proprietors  repre- 
sented only  a  thirty- sixth  of  the  adidt  inhabitants,  and  although  piimogeniture 
has  been  abolished,  the  old  feudal  division  has  been  largely  maintained.  San- 
Miguel  still  belongs  almost  entirely  to  about  a  dozen  large  landowners,  as  at  the 
time  of  the  first  settlement.  Several  domains  comprise  a  broad  belt  stretching 
'rom  the  rock-bound  coast  to  the  cones  of  the  volcanoes.  No  doubt  tenants  have 
the  traditional  right  of  remaining  on  the  cultivated  land  and  receiving  compensa- 
tion for  improvements ;  but  the  rack  rents  exacted  by  the  landlords  represent  a 
large  share,  sometimes  fully  one-half,  of  the  whole  produce.  Small  proprietors 
are  far  from  numerous,  and  at  a  change  of  hands  the  real  value  of  their  holdings 
is  greatly  reduced  by  the  fees  for  sale  and  the  other  legal  dues  by  which  these 
small  estates  are  encumbered.  Thus  the  owner  too  often  becomes  dispossessed  in 
favour  of  the  rapacious  lawyer,  or  of  some  wealthier  emigrant  retui'ning  from 
Brazil,  who  is  willing  to  pay  a  fictitious  value  for  the  property.  Hence  the 
junior  members  in  all  families  swarm  abroad,  the  number  of  yearly  emigrants 
varying  from  two  thousand  to  three  thousand,  while  the  annual  amoimt  remitted 
to  their  relatives  is  estimated  at  forty  thousand  pounds.  Shipping  companies 
have  been  formed  to  take  advantage  of  this  movement,  which  is  directed  towards 
Brazil,  the  United  States,  the  Portuguese  African  possessions,  and  recently  also 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  In  1882  alone,  over  two  thowiand  from  the  single 
district  of  Ponta-Delgoda  migrated  to  Hawaii,  where  in  1884  there  were  reckoned 
9,377  of  Portuguese  race,  mostly  Azorians.  Young  men  escape  from  the  archipelago 
especially  to  avoid  military  service  and  the  wearitome  life  in  some  Portuguese 
fortress.  A  recent  law  obliging  them  to  deposit  a  sufficient  sum  to  provide  a 
Biibstitute  is  frequently  evaded. 

Agriculture  is  the  great  industry  of  the  Azorians,  whose  implements  are  still 
of  a  very  primitive  type,  the  harrows  tipped  with  fragments  of  lava  dating,  in 
fact,  from  the  stone  age.  But  so  fertile  is  the  land,  that  even  so  it  yields  twenty- 
fold  the  corn  committed  to  the  earth.  Unlike  other  great  feudatories,  the 
proprietors    are    seldom   absentees,   residing    constantly  on  their  estates,  and 


wiwwiWiwywiwWWHBi.i  iij.iii!iii|i|ii|i,n .  wnwiui '.;  mw^tflW'■agl'B:^'«y  wgp^;«!»wB3g^^ 


i 


'  of  North 
)  speak  of 
the  rising 
)ugh  their 
towns  and 
the  houses 
I  enjoying 
iimple  and 
I  the  other 
e  all  with 

it  of  over 
ag  popula- 
the  landed 
:ors  repre- 
aogeniture 
led.  San- 
\,  as  at  the 
stretching 
aants  have 
compensa- 
'epresent  a 
)roprietor8 
r  holdings 
bich  these 
assessed  in 
ning  from 
Elence  the 
emigrants 
t  remitted 
companies 
ed  towards 
cently  also 
the  single 
B  reckoned 
rchipelugo 
ortuguese 
provide  a 

;8  are  still 
dating,  in 
ds  twenty- 
tories,  the 
tates,  and 


TOPOOEAPHT  OP  THE  AZORES.  H 

industriously  reclaiming  every  inch  of  arable  laud.  Wheat,  which  degenerates 
in  San- Miguel,  hrives  well  in  Santa-Maria.  Beans  and  haricots  are  also  culti- 
vated, besides  sweet  potatoes  and  yams,  which  serve  not  only  as  food,  but  also 
for  distilling  alcohol.  In  many  places  the  rotation  of  crops  has  been  intro- 
duced in  such  a  way  as  to  yield  two  harvests  in  the  year  ;  nevertheless,  the 
produce  is  generally  inferior  to  that  of  the  mainland  and  of  the  other  Atlantic 
archipelagoes. 

The  vine,  in  recent  years  mostly  destroyed  by  o'idium,  yielded  to  the  middle  of 
this  century  an  indifferent  but  abundant  white  wine.  It  is  now  replaced  by  orange- 
groves,  especially  in  San-Miguel,  which  in  a  single  season  has  exported  to  London 
as  many  as  two  hundred  and  fifty  million  "  Saint  Michaels,"  valued  at  nearly 
£120,000.  Sut  this  plant  also  has  begim  to  "  weep,"  stricken  by  lagrima  and 
othor  diseases,  which  have  reduced  the  export  to  one-fourth.  A  fibre  is  extracted 
from  the  phottnium  tenar,  or  New  Zealand  flax,  introduced  at  an  unknown  date  ; 
pineapples  of  fine  flavour  are  raised  under  glass,  and  since  1878  attention  has  been 
paid  to  the  tea  industry.  In  1885  a  single  plantation  contained  as  many  as  twenty- 
seven  thousand  shrubs.  But  the  staple  agricultural  product  is  maize,  of  which  a 
considerable  quantity  is  exported,  notwithstanding  the  enormous  local  consump- 
tion. The  peasant  class  itself  is  still  in  a  miserable  condition,  wages  ranging 
from  about  eightpence  to  fifteen  pence,  and  during  harvest-time  rising  to  half  a 
crown. 

Formerly  the  islanders  wore  clothes  made  almost  exclusively  of  indigenous 
fabrics  ;  but  the  cheap  foreign  cotton  and  woollen  goods  have  nearly  extinguished 
the  native  looms.  The  only  local  industries,  properly  so  called,  are  tanneries,  flour- 
miUs,  and  cheese-making,  all  not  occupied  with  agriculture  being  engaged  in 
trade.  The  foreign  exchanges  are  steadily  advancing,  having  increased  tenfold 
between  1830  and  1880,  although  since  then  a  considerable  decrease  has  been 
caused  by  the  ravages  of  the  various  diseases  that  have  attacked  the  orange- 
groves. 

TopooRAPwr. 

Santa  Maria,  which  lies  nearest  to  Portugal  and  Madeira,  is  one  of  the  smallest 
and  least  populous  members  of  the  archipelago.  But  it  appears  to  have  formerly 
beep  much  larger,  for  its  marine  pedestal,  eaten  away  by  the  surf  caused  by  fierce 
western  gales,  extends  for  a  considerable  distance  to  the  north-west  of  the  island. 
The  Formigaa  and  Formigore  reefs,  "  pigmy  ants  encircling  a  giant  ant,"  which  lie 
some  24  miles  to  the  north-east,  are  also  mere  fragments  of  an  islet  about  six 
miles  long.  But  while  one  side  of  the  Santa- Maria  bank  has  been  eroded  by  the 
waves,  the  island  has  elsewhere  been  enlarged  by  a  slow  movement  of  upheaval. 
The  traces  of  old  beaches  are  clearly  visible  round  the  coast  to  a  height  of  about 
800  feet.  This  western  section  of  the  archipelago  appears  to  have  been  long 
exempt  from  eruptions  and  imderground  disturbances.  No  recent  sooriea  occur, 
'And  the  old  lavas  have  either  been  weathered  by  atmospherio  action  or  clothed 
with  humus  and  verdure. 


%  I'M 


M 


WEST  ATBICA. 


Santa-Maria  ib  diatiDgiiisbed  from  all  the  other  islands  by  the  presence  of 
some  limestone  beds  deposited  in  the  shallow  waters  before  the  upheaval  of  the 
coasts.  These  deposits,  which  date  from  the  close  of  the  Miocene  epoch,  are 
utilised  by  the  lime-burners,  who  export  the  product  of  the  kilns  to  Ponta- 
Delgada,  in  San- Miguel.  The  red  argillaceous  clays  are  also  used  for  the  manu- 
facture of  pozzolana.>^:t;'r  v<:.v 

Villa  do  Porto,  capital  of  Santa-Maria,  scarcely  deserves  its  name,  which  means 
the  ''  harbour  town."  Its  creek,  a  mere  fissure  in  the  south  coast,  is  exposed  to 
the  west  and  south  winds,  and  the  anchorage  is  so  bad  that  the  shipping  has  often 
to  keep  to  the  roadstead,  ready  to  take  to  the  high  seas  at  the  approach  of  danger. 
Few  of  the  islands  suffered  mox'e  than  Santa-Maria  from  the  raids  of  the  French 

-      J..  Fig.  13. — San-Miouel. 

Scale  t  :  9fiOMO. 


DepthB. 


OtoSW 
Feet. 


880toa,800 
FMt. 


SJiOO  Feet  and 
npmtda. 

iSMUei. 


I 


and  Algerian  corsairs  in  the  sixteenth  century.  In  dry  seasons  it  is  threatened 
with  scarcity,  and  at  times  with  famine. 

San-Miguel  is  the  largest  and  by  far  the  most  important  island,  i^  the  archi- 
pelago, containing  nearly  one-half  of  the  entire  population.  It  consists  of  two 
really  distinct  islands,  the  channel  between  which  has  been  fillj^  up  by  a  series  of 
eruptions.  This  intervening  space  rises  above  the  rocky  plain  formed  by  the  lava- 
streams  flowing  from  the  two  original  islands.  It  is  studded  by  a  multitude  of 
volcanic  cones,  whose  outlines  present  from  a  distance  the  appearance  of  a  line  of 
giant  molehills.  The  volcanic  a^hes  mingled  with  the  d^rig  of  these  lavas,  and 
modified  by  the  action  of  the  rains,  have  developed  an  extremely  fertile  vegetable 
humus,  constituting  the  chief  agricultural  district  in  the  island.  Here,  also,  is 
concentrated  the  great  majority  of  the  population. 

The  eastern  part  of  San-Miguel,  resembling  Santa- Maria  in  the  aspect  of  it« 
ravined  slopes  and  weathered  lavas,  is  dominated  by  the  Pico  da  Vara,  highest 


mm 


my^jj"  iyniiiiii)i,,jii).  .1.))-  ^■ii^ii^'i'r!,!;;';;''.'  '"""Ji?!-^ii-^;'^ri^ 


TOPOGEAPHT  OP  THE  AZORES. 


esence  of 
val  of  the 
ipoch,  are 
to  Ponta- 
.he  manu- 


summit  in  the  island.  This  old  crater  has  heen  quiescent  since  the  arrival  of  the 
first  colonists,  and  the  Africans  left  on  the  island  in  1444  took  refuge  on  its 
wooded  slopes  during  the  violent  earthquakes  which  wasted  the  western  districts. 
West  of  the  Pico  da  Vara  the  irregular  chain  is  broken  at  intervals  by  plains  in 
the  form  of  cirques,  one  of  which  opening  southwards  takes  the  name  of  the  Va 


ich  means 
aposed  to 
has  often 
of  danger, 
le  French 


157' 
35- 


37 

°40 


threatened 

the  archi- 
sts  of  two 
a  series  of 
y  the  lava- 
idtitude  of 
f  a  line  of 
lavas,  and 
>  vegetable 
}re,  also,  is 

pect  of  its 
ra,  highest 


Fig.  14.— Val  dm  FuuiAa. 
Smie  1  :  lM,00a 


■•■■■(•<> 


otoias 


Dq>*lM. 


Feet 


880  Feet  and 
npwatdt. 


S| 


das  Famtu,  or  "  Valley  of  the  Furnaces."  It  is  traversed  by  the  Ribeira  Quente, 
or  "  Burning  River,"  which  reaches  the  sea  through  a  narrow  valley  need  for 
raising  early  fruits  and  vegetables.  For  the  space  of  aboun  the  fourth  of  a  mile, 
in  all  directions  the  ground  is  pierced  by  innumerable  openings,  throwing  up  jets 
;>  of  water  and  vapour.     Some  of  these  apertures  have  scarcely  the  diameter  of  a 


fHI 


86 


^m-.      WEST  AFEICA. 


needle,  and  take  the  name  of  olhos,  or  "  eyes ;  "  but  the  most  copious  spring  is  the 
caldeira,  or  "  cauldron,"  which  ejects  with  a  rumbling  noise  a  liquid  stream  to  a 
height  of  over  three  feet  above  the  level  of  the  basin.  From  the  encircling  rocks, 
worn  and  bleached  by  the  acids,  there  escape  some  boiling  rivulets,  and  even  in 
the  bed  of  the  main  stream  hot  springs  are  revealed  by  the  bubbles  and  vapours 

Kg.  16. — Sns  GiDADM. 
.     r:    *  Bealel  :1«2000. 


■** 


Beptlia. 


iKi'  I 


Otul«S 


iratoaso 


880  Fact  and 
ntiwud*. 

8  HUM. 


rising  above  the  surface.  The  temperature  of  the  waters,  some  of  which  are 
utilised  for  hot  baths,  varies  considerably,  ranging  from  70°  F.  to  208°  F.,  which 
is  nearly  that  of  boiling  water.  The  "  furnaces,"  which  differ  also  in  their 
mineral  properties,  have  undergone  no  change  for  the  last  three  hundred  years, 
beyond  the  gradual  deposit  of  thick  silicious  payers  in  which  plants  are  petrified. 
Large  trees  have  thus  become  rapidly  fossilised. 


>    ■  •.  «  ■. 


I  f 


iyi  i: 


*^*.V' 


TOPOGEAPHY  OP  THE  AZORES. 


87 


Thermal  springs  and  vapour  jets  are  numerous  in  other  parts  of  the  island, 
where  they  are  disposed  in  a  line  running  from  north-west  to  south-east,  that  is, 
in  the  same  direction  as  the  axis  of  the  archipelago  itself.  San-Miguel  also 
abounds  most  in  lakes,  formerly  craters  which  vomited  burning  scoria),  and  are 
now  filled  with  rain  water.  One  of  these  occupies  an  oval  depression  immediately 
to  the  west  of  the  Val  das  Furnas,  while  a  neighbouring  basin,  3  miles  round,  with 
a  depth  of  over  100  feet,  was  completely  filled  with  ashes  during  the  eruption  of 
1563,  and  is  now  known  as  the  Lagoa  Secca,  or  "Dry  Lake."  Six  milei,  farther 
on  is  the  lagoon  Do  Conjro,  filling  a  deep  crater,  with  steep  walls  rising  100  feet 
above  the  water.  Beyond  it  is  the  alpine  Lagoa  do  Fogo,  or  "  Fiery  Lake,"  which 
has  replaced  a  burning  crater  opened  in  1563.  On  this  occasion  the  Volcao,  or 
"  Volcano,"  a  lofty  mountain  so  called  in  a  pre-eminent  sense,  disappeared 
altogether,  being  transformed  to  a  mass  of  ashes  and  pumice,  which  were  strewn 
over  the  island  and  for  hundreds  of  miles  over  the  surrounding  ocean.  Some 
of  the  volcanic  dust  was  even  said  to  have  been  wafted  by  the  wind  as  far  as 
Portugal. 

The  western  extremity  of  San- Miguel  is  almost  entirely  occupied  by  a  circular 
crater,  with  a  surprisingly  regular  outer  rim  9  miles  in  circumference,  and  cut  up 
at  intervals  by  the  action  of  the  rains.  The  vast  amphitheatre  is  dominated  by 
several  volcanoes,  culminating  south-eastwards  in  the  Pico  da  Cruz,  2,830  feet 
high.  The  sheet  of  water  flooding  the  great  crater  lies  at  an  altitude  of  little 
over  1,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  according  to  tradition  this  chasm  was  opened 
in  1444,  the  very  year  when  the  first  settlers  were  landed  on  the  island  by 
Cabral.  This  statement,  however,  has  not  been  confirmed  by  a  geological  study  of 
the  crater,  which  has  also  received  from  the  popular  fancy  the  name  of  the  Caldeiro 
das  Sete  Cidades,  or  "  Cauldron  of  the  Seven  Cities."  Here  were  doubtless  supposed 
to  have  been  submerged  the  "  Seven  Cities  "  of  Antilia,  founded  by  the  seven 
legendary  bishops  said  to  have  fled  from  Portugal  at  the  time  of  the  Moorish 
invasion.  The  lake,  which  has  an  extreme  depth  of  over  350  feet,  is  disposed  in 
two  distinct  basins,  the  Lagoa  Grande  in  the  north,  separated  by  a  scarcely  emerged 
tongue  of  land  from  the  southern  Lagoa  Azul,  or  "Azure  Lake,"  Each  of  the  two 
volcanoes  lying  a  little  farther  south  has  also  flooded  craters. 

Within  the  historic  period  some  submarine  volcanoes  have  risen  close  to  the 
coast  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Set©  Cidades.  The  regular  crater  facing  the  port  of 
Villaf  ranca,  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  is  of  unknown  date.  The  first  eruption 
witnessed  in  the  open  sea  occurred  in  1638,  when  a  column  of  ashes  was  thrown  up 
to  the  south-west  of  Cape  Ferraria,  a  blackish  cone  at  the  same  time  slowly  rising 
above  the  water ;  but  in  a  few  months  the  new  island  was  swept  away  by  the 
winter  storms.  In  1811,  however,  another  appeared  to  the  south-west  of  the  same 
spot.  This  was  the  famous  Sabrina,  so  named  from  the  British  frigate  which 
witnessed  the  eruption,  during  which  jets  of  scoriae  and  ashes  rose  at  intervals  to 
a  height  of  over  680  feet  above  the  cliffs  of  the  neighbouring  coast.  A  cloud  of 
vapours  revolved  roimd  about  this  column  of  d^brii  like  a  vast  wheel,  and  on 
the  fourth  day  the  first  dark  outline  of  Sabrina  rose  to  the  surface.      In  three 


mmmm 


88 


WEST  AFRICA. 


hours  it  was  already  20  feet  high,  with  a  round  crater  1,500  feet  in  circum- 
ference. Sixteen  days  after  the  beginning  of  the  eruption  the  cone  acquired  its 
greatest  dimensions — 250  feet  high  and  1^  mile  round;  but  consisting  entirely 
of  loose  ashes  and  scoriae,  it  coidd  not  long  resist  the  action  of  the  waves,  and 
gradually  disappeared  to  a  depth  of  about  100  feet  below  the  surface. 

The  earliest  Portuguese  settlement  on  the  south  coast  of  Sun-Miguel  takes  tho 
simple  name  of  Poroaram.  VUla/ranea,  which  succeeded  it  as  the  capital,  lies 
also  on  the  south  side,  where  the  roadstead  is  sheltered  from  the  west  winds  by 
the  volcanic  ii^let  and  the  Hooded  isthmus  connecting  it  with  the  shore.    Although 


Fig.  Id. — FoNTA-DlLOAOA.  v!,,^^      >' 


Jr:iS;^ 


iT 


j>r 


Wtrt  of  Greenwich 


B5-1I' 


Sb'40' 


DepUu. 


-ir 


'W- 


10  to  as 
Feet. 


S3  to  80 
Feet. 


80  Feet  and 
upnAida. 


1,100  Tjtde. 


destroyed  by  an  eruption  m  1522,  when  all  its  five  thousand  inhabitants  perished, 
Villafranca  has  again  become  a  populous  place,  carrying  on  a  direct  trade  with 
England.  But  the  capital  has  been  removed  farther  west  ioPonta-Delgada,  which 
ranks  for  population  as  the  fourth  city  in  Portuguese  territory.  The  formerly 
exposed  anchorage  is  already  partly  protected  by  a  pier  2,850  feet  long,  which  was 
begun  in  1860,  and  which,  when  completed,  will  shelter  from  all  winds  a  harbour 
large  enough  to  accommodate  a  hundred  vessels.  More  than  half  of  the  foreign 
trade  of  the  Azores  is  carried  on  through  this  port,  which  is  connected  by  good 
roads  with  tho  northern  slope  of  the  island.     Here  are  situated  Ribeira-Grandt; 


-^^tm 


TOPOOBAPHY  OF  THE  AZORES. 


a  circum- 
;quired  its 
g  entirely 
mves,  and 

1  takes  tho 

ipital,  lies 

;  winds  by 

Although 


second  town  in  Sau-Miguel,  and  Capellas,  the  most  frequented  summer  retreat  of 
the  wealthy  islanders. 

The  waters  separating  San-Miguel  from  Terceira  were  the  scene  of  violent 
submarine  disturbances  in  1720,  when  a  temporary  volcano  ruse  for  a  short  time 
alMjve  the  surface.  In  1867  the  convulsions  were  renewed  near  the  village  of 
Serreta,  at  the  western  extremity  of  Terceira,  when  another  heap  of  scoritc  was 
formed,  without,  -however,  reaching  the  level  of  the  sea.  On  this  occasion  the 
ground  was  in  a  constant  state  of  agitation  for  months  together,  as  many  as  fifty 
shocks  occurring  more  than  once  in  a  single  day,  some  strong  enough  to  overthrow 
the  houses.    The  eruption  which  gave  birth  to  the  sub-nmrine  volcano  lasted  seven 


^ 

^ 


lir 


Fig.  17.— Cbntbal  Iai.AMM  of  th>  Abchipblaoo. 
Scale  1  :  ijfmjooo. 


DepilM. 


,  Otoeao 
Feet. 


a(ntoi,6so 

FMt. 


1,690  to  3,800 
Feet. 


8300  Feet  and 


80lfUee. 


ts  perished, 
trade  with 
jada,  which 
le  formerly 
,  which  was 
8  a  harbour 
the  foreign 
jd  by  good 
ira- Grande, 


days,  during  which  the  surroundinr  waters  were  coloured  yellow,  green,  and  red 
by  the  ferruginous  salts  in  solution. 

Like  San-Miguel,  the  oval  island  of  Terceira,  or  "  the  Third,"  consists  of  two 
sections,  the  central  and  eastern,  with  its  CaMeiram,  or  "  Kettle,"  and  the  western 
with  its  Caldeira,  or  "  Boiler,"  of  Santa-Barbara,  belonging  to  different  geological 
epochs.  The  Kettle  is  a  cirque  some  6  miles  in  circumference,  encircled  by 
volcanic  cones  and  entirely  overgrown  with  a  thicket  of  brushwood.  From  its  rim 
a  view  is  conunanded  of  all  the  central  islands  in  the  archipelago,  and  the  fuint 
outlines  of  San-Miguel,  away  to  the  south-east,  may  even  be  discerned  in  fine 
weather.  The  last  eruption  in  the  interior  of  Terceira  occurred  in  1761,  the  red 
lava  streams  then  ejected  being  still  nearly  destitute  of  vegetation.     A  little  gas 


"^Ml 


iMttii 


m^?m 


40 


WEST  AFRICA. 


and  vapour  at  a  temperature  of  194°  F.  still  escapes  from  the  crater,  while  round 
^about  the  solfutarus  ure  deposited  crystals  of  sulphur,  whence  this  central  part 
of  the  island  takes  the  name  of  Fumaa  d'Eiixqfre,  or  "  Sulphur  Furnucos." 

Off  the  south  coast  of  Terceira  lie  the  Cabraa  rocks,  representing  an  old  sub- 
marine cone,  now  separated  by  the  waves  into  two  distinct  islets.  Attached  to 
the  sumo  const  is  the  Morro  do  Brazil,  another  submarine  volcano  lying  west  of 
the  port  of  Antfra.  A  fort  erected  on  its  slope  defends  Angra,  chief  town  of 
Torcoira,  formerly  ofHcial  capital  of  the  Azores,  and  still  residence  of  the  military 
commander.  Although  smaller  than  Ponta-Delgada,  the  "  City  of  Churches,"  as 
it  is  culled  from  the  number  of  its  sacred  edifices,  it  presents  a  more  monumental 
appearance. .  In  the  local  records  it  boars  the  pompous  title  of  "  Angra  do 
Heroismo,"  in  memory  of  the  successful  resistance  it  opposed  to  the  troops  of  Don 
Miguel  in  1829. 

GracioM,  the  "  Delightful,"  no  longer  deserves  this  name,  since  its  former 
vesture  of  arborescent  vegetation  has  been  replaced  by  more  economic  growths. 
Besides  agriculture,  some  industries  are  carried  on  in  its  two  towns  of  Santu- 
Cruz  and  Praia,  both  situated  on  the  north  coast.  Since  the  arrival  of  the 
Portuguese  there  have  been  no  eruptions,  and  seldom  any  severe  earthquakes  in 
this  island.  The  only  present  indications  of  volcanic  activity  are  a  thermal  and 
mineral  spring  flowing  seawards,  and  some  carbonic  acid  and  other  vapours  emitted 
from  a  "  cauldron  "  in  the  eastern  district. 

San- Jorge,  central  point  of  the  middle  group  and  of  the  whole  archipelago, 
differs  from  the  other  islands  in  its  long  narrow  form,  disposed  exactly  in  the 
direction  of  the  general  Azorian  axis,  and  traversed  for  some  30  miles  by  a  ridge 
destitute  of  deep  "  cauldrons,"  and  even  of  craters,  properly  so  called.  Although 
quiescent  in  its  eastern  section,  which  was  the  first  to  be  occupied  by  Jobst  van 
Huerter's  Flemish  colonists,  San-Jorge  is  still  frequently  disturbed  at  the  other 
end.  Here  is  Vellaa,  the  capital,  sheltered  by  a  headland  from  the  west  winds. 
Submarine  volcanoes  are  said  to  have  made  their  appearance  near  the  western 
extremity  in  1691,  1720,  and  1757;  in  the  latter  year  as  many  as  eighteen 
ephemeral  islets,  all  soon  swept  away  by  the  waves.  Formerly  San- Jorgfe  produced 
the  best  wine  in  the  archipelago,  but  is  at  present  chiefly  occupied  with  stock- 
breeding. 

South  of  San- Jorge  th«)  archipelago  culminates  in  the  lofty  summit  of  Pico,  or 
the  "  Peak,"  in  a  pre-eminent  sense,  which  towers  to  a  height  of  7,800  feet,  and 
which,  although  developing  at  its  base  a  circuit  of  70  miles,  has  never  been  known 
by  any  more  definite  name.  On  both  sides  of  the  isknd  the  slopes  rise  gradually 
towards  the  apex,  but  more  rapidly  on  the  west  side,  which,  seen  from  below, 
present  the  appearance  of  almost  vertical  walls.  During  clear  weather  the  summit 
is  seen  from  a  distance  to  terminate  in  a  crater  encircled  by  more  recent  cones, 
formed  by  successive  eruptions.  But  this  simimit  is  even  more  rarely  visible  than 
that  of  Teneriffe,  the  mountain  being  wrapped  in  clouds  and  fogs  for  months 
together,  while  the  snow,  sheltered  by  the  vapours  from  the  solar  rays,  remains 
even  during  midsummer  in  the  upper  crevasses. 


TOPOOEAPHY  OF  THE  AZORES. 


41 


lile  round 
atral  part 

a  old  8ub- 
Ltuched  to  _, 
ig  west  of 
if  town  of  ^ 
e  militnry 
irohes,"  as 
onumental 
Angra  do 
)ps  of  Don 

its  former 
0  growths, 
of  Santti- 
\el  of  the 
iquakes  in 
lermal  and 
irs  emitted 

rchipelago, 

ctly  in  the 

by  a  ridge 

Although 

Jobst  van 

the  other 

rest  winds. 

he  western 

18  eighteen 

i;e  produced 

with  stock- 

of  Pico,  or 
0  feet,  and 
)een  known 
e  gradually 
:rom  below, 

the  summit 
ecent  cones, 
visible  than 

for  months 
lys,  remains 


Since  the  time  of  the  Portuguese  occupation  violent  eruptions  have  occurred, 
but  none  in  the  terminal  crater  itself,  which  emits  nothing  but  a  light  column  of 
vapour,  mingled  with  carbonic  acid  and  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  The  eruption  of 
1572  appears  to  have  been  specially  distinguished  by  the  intensity  of  its  fires, 
lighting  up  the  whole  archipelago,  changing  night  into  day,  and  illuminating  the 
waters  of  San-Miguel  at  a  distance  of  150  miles.  Like  Tcrcoira  and  Graciosn,  Pico 
consists  mainly  of  lavas  which  were  ejected  in  a  perfectly  fluid  state,  and  con- 
soquently  spreod  in  serpentiuo  windings  over  the  slopes.  Around  nearly  the  whole 
island,  as  round  Etna  in  Sicily,  the  waters  filter  througli  the  ashes  and  {)orou8 
lavas,  under  which  they  develop  subterranean  streams,  reappearing  on  the  coast, 
where  :hey  are  alternately  exposed  and  covered  by  the  tidal  ebb  nnd  flow.  Hence, 
notwithstanding  the  abundant  rainfall,  the  inhabitants  are  obliged  to  husband  their 
supplies  in  artificial  reservoirs. 

Although  of  much  larger  extent,  Pico  hf»«  a  population  very  little  superior  to 
that  of  the  neighbouring  Fayal.  Formerly  the  large  landowners  of  this  iplund 
accumulated  g^eat  wealth  from  their  extensive  vineyards,  egpeciuUy  in  Pico, 
which  in  1862  yielded  over  2,860,000  gallons  of  a  vintage  resembling  Madeira ; 
but  in  1853  the  crop  was  reduced  by  the  ravages  of  o'idium  to  one-fifth,  and  a  few 
years  later  the  vines  had  only  the  value  of  so  much  fuel.  Since  then  a  few  vine- 
yards have  been  restored,  and  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  cidtivation  of  other 
fruits  and  to  grazing  on  the  upland  pastures.  But  the  produce  of  Pico,  and 
consequently  the  trade  of  Fayal,  have  been  much  reduced,  so  that  the  impoverished 
inhabitants  have  largely  contributed  to  swell  the  tide  of  emigration.  Lagens, 
capital  of  Pico,  is  a  wretched  village  near  the  south  coast,  on  the  banks  of  a  lagoon 
which  it  is  proposed  to  convert  into  a  harbour. 

Geographically,  Fayitt  may  be  regarded  as  a  dependency  of  Pico,  from  which 
it  is  separated  by  a  channel  less  than  300  feet  in  depth.  The  spurious  beeches, 
whence  Fayal,  or  the  "  fieech  Grove,"  takes  its  name,  have  almost  disappeared, 
being  now  found  only  in  a  "cauldron"  in  the  centre  of  the  island  1,340  feet  deep 
and  nearly  4  miles  round,  and  flooded  with  a  small  lake.  Of  all  the  Azores,  Fayal 
is  the  best  cultivated,  and  yields  the  finest  fruits,  such  as  oranges,  apricots,  and 
bananas.  The  industrious  natives  maniffacture  some  woven  fabrics,  and  the 
women  prepare  a  thousand  fancy  objects  for  strangers,  amongst  which  beautiful 
lace  made  with  agave  fibre. 

ITorta,  capital  of  Fayal,  occupies  a  pleasant  position  over  against  Pico  at  the 
entrance  of  the  fertile  Yale  of  Flanders,  so  named  from  its  first  settlers,  amongst 
whom  was  Martin  Beham,  the  famous  Niimberg  cosmog^pher.  No  other 
district  in  the  archipelag^o  surpasses  that  of  Horta  for  the  variety  of  the  indigenous 
and  exotic  flora  and  the  beauty  of  its  shady  groves,  in  which  are  intermingled  the 
European,  American,  and  Australian  species.  Owing  to  the  abundance  of  its 
vegetable  and  other  produce,  Horta  has  become  the  chief  port  of  call  of  the 
American  whalers  frequenting  these  waters.  Its  roadstead  also  is  the  best 
sheltered  in  the  whole  archipelago,  being  protected  from  the  dangerous  west  winds 
by  the  surrounding  heights,  from  those  of  the  east  and  north  east  by  Pico  and 

6T— A» 


inwiir'iiii 


I  ll 


42 


WEST  AFMOA.   ' 


San-Jorge,  and  from  the  south  by  the  Quemado  and  Aguia,  or  Quia,  rocks.  A 
breakwater  in  course  of  construction,  running  from  Quemado  to  the  south  of  the 
anchorage,  will  enclose  a  safe  harbour  of  about  30  acres  in  extent. 

Flores  and  Corw,  separated  from  the  other  Azores  by  a  space  of  about  150 


Fig.  IS.-OoRvo. 
Soale  1 :  75,000. 


Dq^tha. 


0  to  380 
Feet. 


8aoFe«tMid 
npwanls. 


.8,300  Tarda. 


miles,  and  from  each  other  by  a  strait  11  miles  wide  and  over  830  fathoms  deep, 
form  a  little  group  apart,  communicating  seldom  with  the  eastern  groups,  except 
for  administrative  purposes  with  Horta,  capital  of  the  province  of  the  Azores. 


ARCHIPELAGO  OF  MADEIRA. 


43 


rocks.     A 
uth  of  the 

about  150 


i 

&9 

-44 

ithoms  deep, 

•oups,  except 

the  Azores. 


Nevertheless,  the  natives  are  daring  mariners,  trading  directly  with  Portugal  and 
Brazil,  and  often  supplying  fresh  hands  to  the  American  whalers.  The  cattle  of 
Corvo,  descended  from  the  Algarvian  breed,  are  probably  the  smallest  in  the 
world,  the  largest  scarcely  exceeding  36  inches,  but  always  well-proportioned. 
The  two  islands  have  a  typical  Azorian  climate,  mild,  moist,  and  breezy,  with  a 
heavier  rainfall  than  elsewhere,  more  sudden  gales,  more  verdant  perennial 
vegetation.  Although  disafforested,  Flores  still  remains  the  island  of  "  Flowers," 
with  a  great  variety  of  vegetable  species  and  wonderfully  fertile  slopes  and  dells. 
All  the  slopes  of  the  hills  in  both  islands  are  scored  by  deep  valleys  radiating 
regularly  from  the  centre  to  the  periphery.  This  formation  is  due  to  the  great 
age  of  the  lavas,  which  during  the  course  of  countless  centuries  have  been  cut  up 
into  broad  valleys,  formerly  densely  covered  with  forest  growths,  now  occupied 
by  rich  cultivated  tracts.  :-    v  .-  ■  • 

No  eruptions,  or  even  any  violent  earthquakes,  have  been  recorded  either  in 
Flores  or  Corvo  throughout  the  historic  period.  The  craters  have  ceased  to  emit 
any  vapours,  and  are  now  partly  flooded  with  lakelets,  partly  clothed  with  brush- 
wood and  herbage.  The  great  cauldron  occupying  about  half  of  Corvo,  is  the 
most  regular  in  the  whole  archipelago,  forming  an  oval  cirque  over  4  miles  round, 
and  intersected  by  numerous  gorges,  some  converging  towards  the  inner  lake, 
others  diverging  seawards."  -'•■•.,.•. 

Administkation.  ^^    , 

The  Azores,  attached  administratively  to  Portugal  as  an  integral  part  of  the 
kingdom,  comprise  three  districts  subdivided  into  twenty-two  concelhos  and  a 
huadred  and  twenty-five  communes.  Each  district  is  administered  by  an  elective 
colonial  council,  and  by  a  special  civil  government  depending  directly  on  the 
metropolis.  The  Azores  send  eight  deputies  to  the  Portuguese  chambers,  four 
named  by  Ponta-Delgada,  two  by  each  of  the  other  districts. 

A  tabulated  list  of  the  islands,  with  their  districts,  chief  towns,  and  popula- 
tions, will  be  found  in  the  Appendix. 

* 

Archipeiago  of  Madeira. 

The  group  of  Atlantic  islands  and  islets  lying  500  miles  to  the  south-east  of 
Santa-Maria  in  the  Azores,  occupies  a  very  insignificant  space  amid  the  surround- 
ing waters.  But  although  Madeira,  the  chief  island,  with  all  its  little  dependen- 
cies, has  a  total  area  of  less  than  400  square  miles,  so  densely  is  it  peopled  that  it 
contains  a  popidation  relatively  four  times  greater  than  that  of  the  mother-country, 
Portugal.  .i 

Less  European  in  its  climate  than  the  Azores,  Madeira  lies,  nevertheless,  much 
nearer  to  the  mainland,  the  distance  from  Funchal  to  Sagres  not  exceeding  550 
miles,  or  two  days  of  steam  navigation.  The  African  coast  is  still  nearer,  Cape 
Cantin,  in  Marocco,  lying  420  miles  due  east ;  while  Palma  and  Teneriffe,  in  the 
Canary  group,  are  distant  less  than  270  miles  to  the  south.     Madeira  is  entirely 


I 


r 


I  i! 


:     3 


44 


WEST  AFRICA. 


encircled  by  deep  waters,  in  which  the  sounding-line  plunges  2,200  fathoms 
without  touching  the  bed  of  the  sea.  But  in  the  direction  of  Europe  there  occur 
several  banks  and  plateaiix,  such  as  that  of  Gettysburg,  about  150  miles  from  the 
nea:^e8t  Portuguese  headland,  flooded  only  by  200  feet  of  water.  This  bank  of 
bright  pink  coral  forms  the  crest  of  an  extensive  submerged  land,  which  ramifies 
on  the  one  hand  towards  Madeira,  on  the  other  towards  the  Azores  through  the 
Josephine  bank  lying  under  85  fathoms  of  water,    t  »' '   --■  •? 

In  the  early  records  of  doubtful  geographical  discovery  Madeira  flits  like  a 
shadow  before  the  puzzled  gaze  of  the  observer.  Is  it  to  be  identified  with  the 
Jeziret-el-Ghanam,  discovered  by  the  Arab  navigators  before  the  time  of  Edrisi, 
that  is,  before  the  twelfth  century ;  and  is  Porto-Santo  the  Jeziret-el-Tiftr,  or  "  Isle 
of  Birds  "  of  these  explorers  P  On  the  map  of  the  brothers  Pizzigani,  dated  1?67, 
and  several  other  more  recent  Italian  charts,  the  Madeira  group  is  indicated  as  the 
archipelago  of  Saint  Brendan's  Fortunate  Islands.  But  so  early  as  1351  Madeira 
is  already  mentioned  in  a  Medicean  document  by  the  name  it  still  bears,  the  "  Isle 
of  Wood  "  (in  Italian  legname,  the  equivalent  of  the  Portuguese  madeira,  "  wood  " ), 
the  other  islets  of  the  group  being  also  indicated  by  their  present  appellations. 
Nevertheless,  Madeira  was  again  forgotten  by  the  western  seafarers,  or  at  least 
the  vague  memory  of  its  existence  faded  away  into  a  popular  legend.  "  It  seems," 
says  one  author,  "  that  such  a  delightful  island  could  only  have  been  discovered  by 
love ;  "  and  thus  arose,  embellished  by  a  Portuguese  writer,  the  story  of  the  two 
English  lovers  who  fled  from  Bristol  in  the  reign  of  Edward  III.,  and  were 
driven  by  a  storm  to  the  coast  of  Madeira. 

But  however  this  be,  the  definite  registration  of  the  archipelago  in  the 
records  of  geographical  discovery  dates  only  from  the  year  1418  or  1419.  Accord- 
ing to  Barros,  the  cavaliers  Gon9alvez  Zarco  and  Tristam  Vaz  Teixeyra,  "still 
unaccustomed  to  sail  on  the  high  seas,"  were  driven  by  the  tempest  far  from  the 
African  shore,  which  they  were  coasting  in  the  direction  of  Bojador,  and  landed 
at  Porto-Santo,  the  "  Sacred  Port,"  or  haven  of  refuge.  On  their  return  to 
Portugal  they  received  from  Don  Henri  a  commission  to  colonise  the  new  island, 
and  they  proceeded  forthwith  to  explore  a  dark  spot  visible  from  Porto-Santo  on 
the  south-western  horizon.  Madeira  was  at  last  discovered.  Contemporary 
evidence  leaves  no  room  to  doubt  that  the  Portuguese  navigators  really  rediscovered 
the  archipelago.  At  the  same  time  it  cannot  be  pretended  that  the  islands  were 
previously  unknown  to  Prince  Henry,  for  the  very  names  given  them  by  the 
Portuguese  were  identified  with  those  already  assigned  to  them  on  the  Italian 
maps. 

Madeira,  chief  member  of  the  group,  so  far  exceeds  all  the  others  in  extent, 
population,  and  resources,  that  in  ordinary  language  no  account  is  taken  of  these 
minor  satellitei^,  and  Madeira  is  spoken  of  as  if  it  were  a  srlitary  island  in  the 
waste  of  waters.  Disposed  in  the  direction  from  east  to  west,  it  has  an  extreme 
length  of  over  35  miles,  and  a  width  of  14  miles  at  its  widest  part,  between  the 
northern  and  southern  headlands  of  San-Jorge  and  Santa-Cruz,  with  a  superficial 
area  of  about  280  square  miles.    Madeira  is  entirely  occupied  by  igneous  rocks 


0  fathoms 
bhere  occur 
)s  from  the 
lis  bank  of 
ch  ramiBes 
irough  the 

flits  like  a 
id  with  the 
)  of  Edrisi, 
ftr,  or  "  Isle 
dated  1?67, 
;ated  as  the 
51  Madeira 
8,  the  "  Isle 
,  "wood"), 
ppellations. 
or  at  least 
'  It  seems," 
scovered  by 
of  the  two 
[.,  and  were 


ago  in  the 
L9,  Accord- 
teyra, 
'ar  from  the 

and  landed 
r  return  to 
I  new  island, 
rto-Santo  on 
9ntemporary 
rediscovered 
islands  were 
hem  by  the 

the  Italian 

rs  in  extent, 
ken  of  these 
jland  in  the 
B  an  extreme 
between  the 
a  superficial 
gneous  rocks 


AECHIPELAGO  OF  MADEIEA. 


46 


ejected  during  succesaive  marine  eruptions,  and  round  the  periphery  furrowed 
by  deep  valleys,  which  bear  witness  to  the  great  antiquity  of  the  lavas.  The 
basalts  and  trachytes  resting  on  a  conglomerate  of  volcanic  debris,  called  vinoso 
from  its  colour,  and  traversed  in  every  direction  by  dykes  of  injected  matter, 
have  been  eroded  by  the  rains  and  torrents  to  a  depth  of  many  hundred  feet 
below  the  original  surface.  No  distinct  craters  are  any  longer  visible ;  the  escarp- 
ments have  lost  their  sharp  scoriae ;  all  rugosities  and  rocky  points  have  been 
rounded  or  covered  with  vegetable  humus.  Hence,  despite  the  chasms  and  their 
steep  walls,  the  whole  surface  has  assimied  a  soft  and  charming  aspect,  even  where 


Fig.  19.— Abohipblaoo  of  Madeira. 
Beale  1 : 1,000,003. 


Weat  of  Greenwich 


OtoSSO 
Veet. 


Opthi. 


800  to  8,800 

Feet. 


8,800  Feet  and 
npwsrdt, 

>80HilM. 


the  rocks  have  not  been  clothed  with  the  verdure  of  brushwood  or  forest  growths. 
There  are  no  indications  of  any  surviving  volcanic  life,  and  earthquakes  are  of  rare 
occurrence. 

The  island  is  traversed  fro'^  end  to  end  by  a  high  saddle-back,  broadening 
here  and  there  into  plateaux,  and  again  contracting  to  a  narrow  ridge.  Lateral 
spurs  branching  from  the  main  range,  and  separated  from  each  other  by  profound 
gorges,  terminate  on  the  coast  in  abrupt  headlands,  columnar  basalt  cliffs,  and 
many-coloured  tufas,  whose  brown,  red,  and  yellow  tints  produce  a  very  vivid 
effect.     Cape  Oiram,  one  of  these  headlands,  about  the  middle  of  the  south  coast, 


, Ja 


40 


WEST  AFRICA. 


)  ■ 


falls  little  short  of  2,500  feet  above  the  sea.  But  the  general  axis  lies  much 
nearer  the  north  side,  where  the  slope  is  consequently  far  more  abrupt.  Here 
also  the  general  aspect  of  nature  is  wilder,  the  headlands  more  rugged,  the  coast- 
line more  sharply  outlined,  without,  however,  anywhere  developing  natural 
havens.  The  whole  island  presents  no  safe  refuge  where  shipping  may  safely 
anchor  at  all  times. 

According  to  Oswald  Heer,  Madeira  emerged  probably  during  the  Quaternary 
epoch,  to  which  age  seem  to  belong  the  beds  of  fossil  plants  discovered  on  the 


Fig.  20.— EA8TEBN  Peninsttla  or  Haobiiu. 
Scale  1 :  18S,000.  * 


0  to  165 
Feet. 


16fito330 
Feet. 


Depths. 


830  to  MO 
Feet. 


6eo  Feet  nnd 
upwiuds. 


,  8HUG8. 


north  side,  and  the  prodigious  masses  of  land  shells  forming  steep  ramparts  about 
Cape  Sam-Louren90  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  island.  Mai^ine  fossils  found 
1,270  feet  above  sea-level  date  from  the  Tertiary  period,  and  some  facts  are  men- 
tioned by  Walker  which  show  that  the  sea  has  receded  in  the  Funchal  district, 
and  which  seem  to  point  at  a  recent  upheaval  of  the  land. 

According  to  Ziegler,  Madeira,  regarded  as  a  horizontal  mass,  has  a  mean 
altitude  of  2,700  feet.  But  in  its  western  section  the  central  chain,  here  very 
irregular,. rises  to  a  height  of  over  4,000  feet.  It  then  expands  into  an  extensive 
tableland  about  10  miles  round,  with  precipitous  escarpments.     This  is  the  Paul 


CLIMATE  OF  MADEIRA. 


47 


da  Serra,  or  "  Mountain  Morass,"  whose  depressions,  here  and  there  filled  with 
peat,  have  somewhat  the  aspect  of  the  English  moors.  East  of  this  district  the 
main  range  is  dominated  hy  the  Pic  Rnivo,  or  Red  Peak,  5^870  feet,  culminating 
point  of  the  whole  island,  which  overlooks  the  Carral  das  Freiras,  a  vast  cirque 
enclosed  on  three  sides  by  steep  walls  over  1,600  feet  high.  Here,  perhaps,  was 
the  old  central  crater,  now  enlarged  and  partly  effaced  by  the  erosion  of  running 
waters.  A  dismantled  lava  wall  connects  the  Ruivo  heights  to  a  very  irregular 
plateau  dominating  on  the  north  the  Bay  of  Funchal.  Beyond  this  plateau, 
which  still  exceeds  3,000  feet,  the  central  range  falls  rapidly,  and  the  island  tapers 
to  the  eastern  peninsula,  which,  with  its  terminal  islets,  presents  the  best 
anchorage  for  shipping.  The  little  haven  of  Machico,  at  the  neck  of  this  penin- 
sula, is  the  spot  where  the  legend  places  the  grave  of  the  two  English  lovers, 
said  to  have  been  the  first  that  landed  on  the  island,  driven  to  its  shores  by  a 
tempest.  -)-_i'f  ^^^r-■  •  ■■'■  ■ 

The  rugged  easternmost  headland  of  Sam-Louren90  is  continued  seawards  by  the 
islet  of  Fora  and  by  a  submarine  bank,  which  is  extended  eastwards  and  south- 
wards in  depths  of  from  280  to  500  feet.  Still  farther  to  the  south-east  this  bank 
rises  to  the  surface,  forming  some  reefs  and  the  chain  of  the  three  Desertas,  or 
"  Desert "  islets,  which  long  deserved  their  name,  but  which  are  now  inhabited  by 
a  few  hundred  fishermen  and  shepherds.  In  the  valleys  of  the  largest  (Grande 
Deserta)  some  com  is  also  cultivated. 

Porto-Santo,  lying  90  miles  to  the  north-east  of  Madeira,  and  separated  from 
it  by  an  abyss  1,200  fathoms  deep,  differs  also  in  its  relief.  It  is  far  less  hilly, 
consisting  of  two  volcanic  masses  with  an  intervening  sandy .  plain,  where  are 
situated  the  chief  centres  of  population. 

Climate. 

Lying  between  32°  and  33°  N.  latitude — that  is,  about  one-third  of  the  distance 
between  the  equator  and  the  Arctic  pole — Madeira  is  renowned  for  its  mild  and 
delightful  climatei  When  we  speak  of  any  pleasant  spot  or  happy  island,  Madeira 
at  once  recurs  to  the  memory.  Although  meteorological  observations  have  been 
taken  almost  exclusively  in  the  specially  favoured  district  of  Funchal,  situated  on 
the  south  coast  and  well  sheltered  from  the  north,  the  whole  archipelago  may  be 
said  to  enjoy  a  remarkably  equable  climate.  The  mean  temperature  of  Funchal  is 
naturally  somewhat  higher  than  that  of  Ponta-Delgada  and  Fayal  in  the  Azores, 
which  lie  five  degrees  farther  north,  but  the  annual  extremes  are  considerably  kss, 
the  heat  being  greater  in  winter  and  less  sultry  in  summer.  Between  February, 
the  coldest,  and  August,  the  hottest  month,  the  difference  is  less  than  12°  F.,  the 
mean  for  winter  being  60°  F.,  for  summer  69°  F.,  and  for  the  whole  year  64°  F. 

This  remarkable  uniformity  is  due  not  only  to  the  marine  situation  of  Madeira, 
but  also  to  the  annual  equilibrium  of  the  winds.  During  the  hot  season,  that  is, 
from  February  to  September,  the  cool  north-east  trade  winds  prevail,  these  being 
succeeded  in  winter  by  the  soft  western' breezes.    At  the  same  time  the  deviations 


>ll 


»!»■/ 


48 


WEST  AFRICA. 


from  the  normal  directions  are  very  frequent  in  these  waters,  which  lie  in  the 
intermediate  zone  between  the  tropical  and  temperate  seas.  Thus  the  north-west 
currents  are  often  deflected  eastwards  by  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Sahara,  and 
transformed  to  north  and  north-east  winds.  At  times  also  the  leste,  as  the 
scirocco  is  here  called,  blows  from  the  desert  towards  Madeira,  but  it  is  usually 
very  weak  and  seldom  lasts  long.  The  system  of  general  currents  is  daily  modified 
by  the  regular  movement  of  the  terral,  or  land-breeze,  blowing  from  the  uplands  sea- 
wards, and  of  the  imhaie,  or  sea-breeze,  blowing  landwards.  The  change  of  direc- 
tion often  takes  place  before  noon,  so  that  the  greatest  heat  prevails  in  the  early 
part  of  the  day. 

The  chief  moisture-bearing  currents  are  the  trade  winds  more  or  less  deflected 
and  transformed  to  north  and  north-west  breezes.  The  wettest  month  is  December, 
August  the  driest ;  but  no  season  is  quite  rainless,  and  the  rainfall  varies  remark- 
ably from  year  to  year.  On  an  average  scarcely  a  hundred  wet  days  are  recorded 
at  Funchal,  which  is  about  half  that  of  the  Azores,  the  quantity  of  rainfall  being 
nearlj'  in  the  same  proportion  in  the  two  archipelagoes.  According  to  Heineken, 
that  of  Funchal  is  about  30  inches  yearly,  so  that  the  inhabitants  of  Madeira  are 
obliged  to  husband  their  resources,  utilising  the  water  from  the  melting  snows  to 
irrigate  the  plains,  and  diverting  the  copious  streams  by  means  of  kvados,  or 
aqueducts  running  in  galleries  through  the  hills  and  encircling  the  escarpments 
above  the  valleys.  These  springs  are  partly  fed  by  the  dense  fogs  which  con- 
stantly settle  morning  and  evening  on  the  summits  of  the  interior. 


"    *  '  Flora. 

Although  less  extensive  than  the  Azores,  the  Madeira  group  possesses  a  far  more 
varied  flora,  which  is  due  no  doubt  to  its  greater  proximity  to  the  two  continents  of 
Europe  and  Africa,  and  to  its  milder  climate  favouring  the  development  both  of 
tropical  plants  and  species  peculiar  to  the  temperate  zone.  Madeira  is  like  a  largo 
botanical  garden,  in  which  the  two  floras  are  intermingled.  To  the  seven  hundred 
species  supposed  to  have  been  indigenous  at  the  arrival  of  the  Portuguese,  there 
have  since  been  added  thousands  introduced  by  man  either  unintentionally,  or 
designedly  for  agricultural,  industrial,  or  ornamental  purposes.  "  The  violet,"  says 
Bowditch,  "  grows  beneath  the  shade  of  the  bananas ;  the  strawberry  ripens  at  the 
foot  of  the  mimosas;  palms  and  conifers  flourish  side  by  side;  the  guava  and  pear- 
trees  are  niet  with  in  the  same  enclosures." 

Thanks  to  a  few  indigenous  plants,  and  especially  to  the  exotics  introduced  since 
the  colonisation,  the  present  vegetation  of  Madeira  in  many  respects  recalls  that  of 
the  tropical  lands  in  Africa  and  the  New  World,  without  however  losing  its  general 
European  aspect.  Of  the  700  species,  of  which  627  are  verj-  probably  endemic, 
357  belong  to  Europe,  while  not  more  than  30  can  be  referred  to  the  tropical  flora 
of  both  hemispheres.  As  regards  the  indigenous  species  either  peculiar  to  Madeira 
or  common  to  some  of  the  other  Atlantic  archipelagoes,  Madeira  shows  the  greatest 
resemblance  to  the  Canary  group.    Hence  Webb,  Ball,  and  other  naturalists  have 


i  in  the 
irth-wert 
lara,  and 
?,  as  the 
J  usually 
modified 
unds  Bea- 
of  direc- 
the  early 

deflected 
)eceinber, 
3  remark- 
I  recorded 
'all  being 
[leineken, 
udeira  are 
f  snows  to 
'emdos,  or 
carpments 
^bicb  con- 


a  far  more 
itinents  of 
it  both  of 
ce  a  largo 
n  hundred 
lese,  there 
ionally,  or 
lolet,"  says 
>en8  at  the 
and  pear- 


so 


WEST  AFBIOA. 


undergone  but  slight  changes,  as  shown  by  Oswald  Ileer's  researches  on  the  foMsU 
plants  of  Mount  Sam-Jorge  in  the  north  of  Madeira.  At  that  time  the  tree- 
fern,  the  myrtle,  and  allied  species  were  as  characteritttic  of  the  island  U8  at  present. 
An  extremely  remarkable  botanical  phenomenon  is  the  curious  contrast  presented 
by  the  larger  inland  to  Porto-Santo  and  the  Desertas,  where  are  found  African, 
Asiatic,  and  American  varieties  not  occurring  in  Madeira  proper. 

Here  great  changes  have  taken  place,  thousands  of  new  plants  having  been 
introduced,  while  some  of  the  indigenous  species  have  probably  disappeared.  The 
clearing  of  the  forests  be^n  with  the  very  first  arrivals,  and  Gonfales  Zarco,  to 

Tig.  22.— DsAOOXA  or  Iood,  nr  Tunuarn. 


! 


whom  the  Funohal  district  had  been  asngoed  as  a  fief,  fired  the  woods  ooTering 
the  site  of  the  future  capital.  The  conflagration  spread  far  and  wide,  threatening 
even  to  devour  those  by  whom  it  had  been  kindled.  Aloys  de  Codamosto  tells  us 
that  in  order  to  escape  from  the  flames  the  settlers  had  to  take  refuge  in  their  boats 
or  to  cast  themselves  into  the  sea,  where  they  remained  without  food  for  two  days 
and  nights,  immersed  to  the  shoulders  in  water.  For  years  the  fire  continued  to 
creep  from  hUl  to  hill,  and  the  new  plants  that  sprang  up  no  longer  resembled  those 
of  the  primeval  forests.  Porto-Santo  also,  formerly  covered  with  large  timber,  and 
especially  with  the  dracoms  used  for  building  boats,  was  even  more  wasted  thaa 


INHABITANTS  OF  MADEIEA. 


81 


Madeira,  and  brushwood  has  become  so  rare  that  cow-dung  has  now  to  be  uned  for 
fuel  The  drucona,  a  typical  Macaronesian  tree,  hiw  disappeared  from  Porto-Santo 
since  1828,  and  has  also  become  very  rare  in  ^ladeira,  where  it  mostly  dies  without 
fructifying.  In  all  the  lowlying  grounds  cultivated  plants  have  replaced  the  old 
vegetation,  fields  and  orchards  ascending  as  high  as  2,500  feet,  which  is  the 
limit  for  the  cultivated  species  of  the  temperate  zone.  But  the  laurel  and  ferns 
reach  as  far  as  5,350  feet,  where  is  met  the  Oreodaphne  foeten%,  which  emits  such  a 
footid  odour  that  the  woodman  is  unable  to  fell  it  all  at  once.  >"->' .   ^='< 

Fauna. 

The  original  fauna  of  the  archipelago  is  v*  ry  poor  in  species,  being  limited  to 
a  lizard,  a  bat,  a  bird,  a  bee,  a  grasshopper,  a  cricket,  a  few  shells  and  insects, 
and  a  spider  which  weaves  no  web,  but  captures  flies  by  fascinating  them,  as  the 
snake  does  the  frog.  Of  the  176  land-shells  38  are  European;  but  each  island  has 
its  special  varieties,  the  Desertas  10,  Porto-Santo  44,  and  Madeira  as  many  as  61. 
All  the  quadrupeds  have  been  introduced  by  the  colonists,  even  the  destructive 
rabbit  and  rats.  The  marine  fauna  is  also  mainly  European,  fewer  species  of  the 
equatorial  Atlantic  having  been  discovered  than  naturalists  had  expected  from 
the  latitude.  According  to  Lowe,  the  fishes  are  essentially  Lusitanian,  occupying 
an  intermediate  position  between  those  of  the  British  Isles  and  the  Mediterranean. 

Inhabitants. 

Like  that  of  the  Azores,  the  population  of  Madeira  is  of  very  mixed  origin. 
Perestrello,  leader  of  the  first  settlers,  was  an  Italian;  Jews  and  Moors  have  taken 
refuge  in  the  island;  Negroes  have  been  imported  as  slaves;  the  English,  masters 
of  Madeira  during  the  wars  of  the  Empire,  left  behind  them  numerous  families;  and 
since  tho  development  of  ocean  steam  navigation  many  strangers  have  settled 
here.  But  all  these  heterogeneous  elements  became  successively  absorbed  in  the 
dominating  Portuguese  race,  and  nearly  all  the  inhabitants  have  black  eyes,  coarse 
dark  hair,  and  a  swarthy  complexion,  far  too  general  not  to  be  attributed  in  many 
cases  to  a  Negro  strain.  Really  beautiful  features  are  seldom  met,  except  in  the 
rural  districts,  but  many  have  a  pleasant  expression,  due  to  their  healthy  appear- 
ance, graceful  carriage,  and  well-proportioned  figures.  Like  their  Portuguese 
ancestry,  the  people  are  as  a  rule  very  courteous,  of  a  mild,  amiable,  and  cheerful 
temperament,  and  law-abiding. 

The  population  increases  rapidly,  having  risen  from  16,000  in  the  beginning 
of  the  sixteenth  century  and  64,000  in  1768,  to  100,000  in  1825  and  over  135,000 
at  present.  It  has  thus  been  more  thaii  doubled  in  a  century,  while  the  number  of 
births  exceeds  the  mortality  by  from  1,500  to  2,000.  Yet  scarcity  at  times  causes  a 
falling  off,  as  between  the  years  1839-1847,  when  the  potato  disease,  followed  by 
much  distress,  reduced  the  population  by  over  10,000.  The  malady  of  the  vine 
was  still  more  disastrous,  and  the  visitation  of  cholera  in  1866  caused  a  total  loss 
of  about  10,000,  victims  partly  of  the  epidemic,  partly  of  want  and  exhaustion. 
Several  ailments  prevail  which  one  would  scarcely  expect  to  find  in  such  a  highly 


■mm!smm»:-i:  ■  -a^bsksw-j 


.■!ssss)f>r*ft»i(;.« 


I 


62 


WEST  AFRICA. 


favoured  climate.  Such  are  rickets,  scrofula,  connumption,  and  even  leprosy,  as  in 
the  mother  country.  The  women  emigrate  fur  less  than  the  men,  so  that  they  are 
always  in  excess  by  several  thousands.  During  the  quarter  of  a  century  between 
183-5  and  1859,  over  50,000  altogether  emigrated,  either  to  the  British  West 
Indies,  or  to  Demerara  and  Brazil,  and  settlements  have  also  been  formed  in  the 
Cape  and  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

The  land  system  is  the  same  as  that  which  prevails  in  the  Azores.  Although 
landed  property  has  been  free  since  186>),  the  descendants  of  the  old  feudatories 
still  own  the  soil  and  the  water  used  in  irrigation.  The  tenant,  however,  claims 
uU  the  produce  and  all  structures  erected  by  himself,  so  that  he  cannot  be 
dispossessed  without  receiving  compensation  for  the  standing  crops  and  improve- 
ments. He  has,  in  fact,  become  co-proprietor,  and  may  even  sell  his  bcmfeitoria,  or 
"  interest,"  without  the  consent  of  the  morgmh  (ground  landlord).  In  theory  the 
rent  claimed  by  the  latter  represents  half  the  crop,  but  it  is  usually  less,  and  in 
«  ime  cases  not  even  one-fourlh. 

The  first  great  staple  of  ogriculture  was  the  sugar-cane,  imported  from  Sicily, 
and  in  the  sixteenth  century  so  prosj^ierous  that  th^  hundred  mills  at  that  time 
employed  yielded  over  90,000  cwts.  But  this  industry  having  been  ruined  by  the 
competition  of  Brazil,  capitalists  took  to  wine-growing,  the  plant,  introduced  from 
Oandia  in  the  fifteenth  century,  having  succeeded  beyond  all  hope.  The  better 
vintages  acquired,  under  the  names  of  "  malvoisie  "  and  "  dry  Madeira,"  a  high 
repute,  anc'  at  the  time  of  its  greatest  prosperity,  about  1820,  the  total  yield 
omounted  to  2,650,000  gallons,  valued  at  £500,000.  But  in  1852  otdium,  after 
wasting  the  vineyards  of  the  Cape  Yerd  and  Canary  groups,  attacked  those  of 
Madeira.  The  niin  was  sudden  and  terrible,  and  when  growers  began  to  recover 
themselves  in  the  course  of  ten  or  twelve  years,  phylloxera  invaded  the  districts 
which  yielded  the  choicest  vintages.  Nevertheless,  the  struggle  continues,  and 
Madeira  still  exports  wind  blended  either  with  the  ordinary  white  vintage  of  Portu- 
gal, or  with  cider,  or  even  with  the  juice  of  the  sugar-cane.  The  vine  grows  best  in 
the  Funchal  district  and  at  the  entrance  of  the  southern  gorges.  It  is  rare  on 
the  northern  slope,  where  its  tendrils  twine  round  the  branches  of  the  chestnut. 

Early  vegetables,  exquisite  bananas,  and  other  sub-tropical  fruits,  are  raised  for 
the  Lisbon  market.  Were  trade  relieved  from  its  fiscal  burdens,  this  industry 
might  be  vastly  developed,  and  Madeira  might  become  the  southern  garden  of 
Western  Europe.  Lisbon  also  largely  imports  the  products  of  the  local  handicrafts, 
such  as  lace,  embroidery,  artificial  flowers,  straw  hats,  matting,  carved  and  inlaid 
wood,  and  a  thousand  other  objects  needing  taste  and  a  deft  hand.  In  the  villages 
these  articles  are  produced  chiefly  by  the  women  and  the  infirm. 
,,  .Another  less  praiseworthy  but  no  less  profitable  pursuit  is  the  systematic  plunder 
of  invalids  and  other  strangers  who  come  to  recruit  their  strength  in  this  delightful 
island.  But  many  of  these  die  in  the  place  where  they  sought  renewed  life,  and 
Madeira  has  even  been  called  "  one  of  London's  cemeteries."  The  fault,  however, 
as  remarked  by  M.  Thiercelin,  is  not  with  the  land  where  people  come  to  die,  but 
with  that  where  they  have  lived.    The  number  of  visitors  varies  from  year  to  year 


.i',»»»?S®c6 


INHABITANTS  OF  MADEIRA. 


with  the  whim  of  fashion  and  the  vicissitudes  of  trade.  But  the  strangers  who  pass 
the  winter  in  Funchal  may  on  an  average  be  estimated  at  five  hundred,  mostly 
English,  who  spend  about  £100,000  in  the  country.  Lying  on  the  track  of 
the  Atlantic  steamers  plying  along  the  West  African  seaboard,  Madeira  also  bene- 


68 


fits  by  the  constant  arrival  of  numerous  passengers,  who  land  for  a  few  hours  or  days 
on  this  fortunate  island.  Of  late  years  Madeira  has  also  become  a  health  resort 
for  European  civilians,  officials,  and  soldiers  residing  on  the  west  coast  of  Africa, 
Senegambia,  Sierra-Leone,  or  Liberia.  They  come  to  breathe  the  cool  sea-breezes 
in  the  same  island  where  men  from  the  north  bask  in  the  warm  mid-day  sun. 


-J" 


64 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Topography. 


The  presence  of  all  these  wealthy  strangers  could  not  fail  to  transform  the 
town  where  they  take  up  their  ahode.  Thanks  to  them,  Funchal,  capital  and  only 
town  in  the  island,  'hus  assumed  a  neat  and  elegant  appearance,  with  pleasant  walks 
and  charming  villas  dotted  over  the  slopes  and  crests  of  the  surrounding  hills. 
Lying  on  a  roadstead  open  to  the  south,  and  deep  enough  for  large  vessels,  and 
slightly  protected  by  a  fortified  islet  from  the  south-weit,  Funchal  will  soon  possess 
a  thoroughly  sheltered  harbour  enclosed  by  a  breakwater  connecting  the  island 
with  the  mainland.  It  has  the  further  attraction  of  surprisingly  fertile  gardens, 
and  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Socorridos  with  its  magnificent  amphitheatre  of 
cultivated  slopes  commanded  by  a  semicircle  of  hills,  whence  .the  streams  flow  in 
gorges  converging  on  the  town.  The  entrepot  for  all  the  produce  of  the  island, 
Funchal  is  also  the  seat  of  three  large  colleges — the  lyceum,  the  seminary,  and  the 
medical  school  preparatory  for  the  University  of  Coimbro.  These  schools  are  pretty 
well  attended,  but  in  the  rest  of  the  archipelago  great  ignorance  prevails,  more 
than  half  of  the  population  being  entirely  illiterate.  Next  to  Portuguese,  the 
most  widespread  language  is  English,  mother-tongue  of  most  of  the  visitors  and 
passing  seafaring  population. 

Porto-Santo,  ruined  by  the  "colonial  contracts,"  which  secured  half  of  all  the 
produce  to  the  landed  proprietors,  has  only  1750  inhabitants  altogether.  Neverthe- 
less its  capital,  Baleira,  takes  the  title  of  city. 

Like  the  Azores,  Madeira  forms  administratively  an  integral  part  of  the 
kingdom  of  Portugal,  constituting  a  separate  province  under  the  name  of  Funchal, 
its  capital,  since  the  arrival  of  the  first  settlers. 

Although  geographically  belonging  to  the  Canaries,  the  little  Selmgens  group 
are  usually  considered  as  a  dependence  of  Madeira,  from  which  they  are  distant 
about  180  miles.  Of  these  uninhabited  and  worthless  islets  a  Funchal  family 
claims  the  ownership.  They  comprise  the  Great  Piton,  5  miles  in  circumference, 
and  the  Little  Pit«n  connected  with  it  by  a  chain  of  rocks  and  reefs,  frequented 
by  myriads  of  aquatic  birds. 


The  Canary  Archipelago. 

Lying  much  nearer  the  continent  than  the  other  Atlantic  groups,  thf»  Canaries, 
which  are  within  0  ±  miles  of  the  nearest  Maroccan  headland,  have  been  known 
since  the  commencement  of  the  historic  period.  They  are  the  Fortunate  Islands 
of  the  Greek  poets,  the  abode  of  departed  heroes,  who  here  enjoyed  everlasting 
life  under  a  delightful  climate,  never  checkered  by  storms  or  biting  frosts.  But 
in  those  days  no  geographer  could  indicate  the  precise  locality  of  those  blissful 
islands,  which  in  the  imagination  of  the  ancients  were  confused  with  all  the 
Atlantic  lands  lying  in  the  "  ocean  stream "  beyond  the  Pillars  of  Hercules. 
Strabo  tells  us  that  the  Phoenicians  knew  them  well,  but  kept  the  secret  of  their 
discoveries  to  themselves.     Even  in  the  Periplous  of  Hanno^  the  Carthaginian, 


THE  CANAEY  AECHIPELAGO. 


18 


form  the 
and  only 
Eint  walks 
^ng  hills, 
isels,  and 
)n  possess 
he  island 
gardens, 
bheatre  of 
9  flow  in 
le  island, 
J,  and  the 
are  pretty 
ails,  more 
^uese,  the 
sitors  and 

of  all  the 
Neverthe- 

rt  of  the 
'  Funchal, 

lena  group 
ire  distant 
lal  family 
imference, 
'requented 


n  Canaries, 
3en  known 
ite  Islands 
everlasting 

its.  But 
)se  blissful 
th  all  the 

Hercules, 
ret  of  their 
rthaginian. 


mention  is  made  only  of  the  in-shore  islands,  which  can  scarcely  be  identified  with 
the  Canaries,  unless  Teneriffe  be  the  "  Land  of  Perfumes,"  Avhence  flowed  seawards 
fiery  streams,  and  which  were  commanded  by  a  lofty  mountain,  known  to  mariners 
as  the  "  Chariot  of  the  Gods."  Nevertheless  the  name  of  Junonia,  applied  by 
Ptolem^' '.  ^  one  of  the  islands,  would  suffice  to  show  that  here  was  a  Carthaginian 
settlcm'.nt.  ^or  their  great  goddess  wat^  Tanith,  identified  by  the  Greeks  and 
Romans  with  their  Juno.  SI  ^^^'^    v  :(.;  t.^?  '     •'    ;         ,=  •     '■- 

The  oldest  extant  documents  which  attempt  to  fix  the  exact  locality  of  the 
Fortunate  Islands,  date  from  the  time  of  imperial  Rome,  and  the  first  mention  of 
the  word  Canaria  occurs  in  Pliny,  who  on  the  authority  of  a  certain  Statius 
Sebosus,  assigns  it  to  one  of  the  islands,  whence  it  has  been  extended  to  the  whole 
group.  According  to  Faidherbe,  this  nAme  is  derived  from  the  Berber  Canar,  or 
Ganar,  formerly  attributed  to  the  neighbouring  African  seaboard ;  and  the  Wolofs 
even  still  apply  the  term  Ganar  to  the  region  stretching  north  of  the  Senegal 
river.  Ptolemy  also  calls  one  of  the  western  headlands  of  Africa  Canaria,  while 
Pliny  speaks  of  some  "  Canarian  "  tribes  among  the  populations  dwelling  about 
the  Atlas  Mountains. 

Amongst  the  islands  mentioned  by  the  ancient  writers,  two  only  can  be  now 
identified  by  their  name — Canaria,  the  Great  Canary  of  modern  times,  and 
Nimria,  or  the  "  Snowy,"  which  certainly  refers  to  the  Peak  of  Teyde.  The  latter 
being  described  as  the  island  farthest  removed  from  the  Gates  of  Hercules,  it 
would  seem  to  follow  that  the  three  western  islands  of  Gomera,  Palma,  and 
Hierro,  were  unknown  to  the  ancients,  so  that  the  others  named  by  them  would 
have  to  be  sought  in  the  group  comprising  Lanzarote,  Fuerteventura,  and  the 
neighbouring  islets.  Several  of  these  being  mere  reefs  were  left  unnamed,  just 
as  at  present  we  speak  summarily  only  of  the  seven  larger  islands,  although, 
including  the  Selvagens,  the  whole  archipelago  comprises  as  many  as  sixteen 
distinct  lands. 

Although  it  is  impossible  to  identify  Edrisi's  seventeen  islands  of  the 
"  Gloomy  Ocean,"  the  Arabs  are  generally  believed  not  only  to  have  been 
acquainted  with  the  Khalidat,  or  "  Eternal "  islands,  but  also  to  have  lived,  jointly 
with  the  Berbers,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  archipelago.  In  the  thirteenth 
century  Ibn-Said  describes  in  detail  the  voyage  of  the  navigator,  Ibn-Fathima,  to 
the  south  of  Cape  Bojador,  and  his  shipwreck  on  the  Argmn  Bank.  Nevvitheless 
Be  Macedo  has  endeavoured  to  show  that  the  Arabs  were  ignorant  of  the  existence 
of  the  Canaries,  and  that  their  geographers  merely  repeated  with  modifications 
the  texts  of  the  ancients  referring  to  this  archipelago. 

While  the  Portuguese  sailors  were  still  cautiously  feeling  their  way  along  the 
African  seaboard,  the  Canaries,  which  lie  south  of  Cape  Nun,  had  long  been 
visited  by  those  of  other  nations.  Before  the  expeditions  of  Gil  Eannes,  the 
Portuguese  had  not  ventured  to  double  Cape  Nun,  and  did  not  get  beyond  Cape 
Bojador  till  1436,  whereas  the  Genoese  were  already  acquainted  with  the  Canaries 
at  the  end  of  the  thirteenth  century,  and  had  even  occupied  Lanzarote,  one  of  the 
group.    Petrarch,  bom  in  1304,  tells  us  that  "  a  full  generation  before  his  time  " 


i  immiW/i>i!»3iss>ittiamimir)m:s»mm 


ONMRMM 


jmrnimtOm 


mifctiwiiiiwiim  ^.ltl^f 


. im 


06 


WEST  AFRICA. 


a  Genoese  fleet  had  reached  the  archipelago ;  and  Lanzarote  was  the  name  of  the 
Genoese  conqueror  (Lanzaroto  Marocello)  whose  family  was  one  of  the  most 
powerful  in  the  republic,  from  the  beginning  of  the  twelfth  to  the  end  of  the 
sixteenth  century.  This  family  was  itself  of  Norman  origin,  and  when  the 
Normans,  under  B^thencourt,  occupied  Lanzarote  in  1402,  they  there  found  "  an 
old  castle  formerly  built  by  Lancelot  Maloesel,  as  is  said." 

During  the  fourteenth  century  the  Canaries  were  frequently  visited  by 
Europeans,  either  as  pirates  or  here  shipwrecked;  and  a  chart  dating  from  1351 
presents  an  exact  outline  of  the  archipelago,  with  the  names  still  current,  Teneriffe 
alone  excepted,  which  was  called  "  Hell  Islaad,"  on  account  of  its  burning 
mountain.  The  European  kings  had  already  begun  to  contend  for  these  oceanic 
lands,  and  in  1344  Pope  Clement  VL  presented  them  to  one  of  his  favourites, 
Luis  de  la  Cerda,  whom  he  named  "  Prince  of  Fortune ;  "  but  the  new  sovereign 
lacked  the  means  needed  to  enable  him  to  take  possession  of  his  kingdom.  All 
the  expeditions  to  these  waters,  even  those  of  the  Italians  Angiolino  di  Tagghia 
and  Nicolosi  di  Eecco  for  Alfonso  IV.  of  Portugal,  were  still  made  for  plunder, 
and  not  for  conquest.  As  says  the  local  chronicle :  "  Lancelot  was  once  very 
thickly  peopled,  but  the  Spaniards  and  other  sea-robbers  have  oftentimes  taken 
and  carried  them  away  into  bondage."  No  actual  conquest  was  attempted  till 
1402,  when  the  Norman  Jean  de  Bethencourt  landed  on  Lanzarote  with  fifty  men. 
He  was  well  received  by  the  people ;  but  internal  discord,  the  want  of  provisions, 
and  a  bootless  excursion  to  Fuerteventura,  would  have  caused  a  total  failure  had 
Bethencourt  not  offered  the  suzerainty  to  the  King  of  Castillo  in  return  for  men 
and  supplies.  Thanks  to  this  help  he  was  enabled  to  occupy  Fuerteventura  in 
1404,  and  Ferro  (Hierro)  in  1405 ;  but  his  expeditions  to  the  other  islands  were 
defeated,  and  Gomera  alone  was  added  to  the  European  possessions  by  his 
successor.  The  valiant  resistance  of  the  natives  was  not  finally  overcome  until 
the  King  of  Spain  had  formally  decreed  the  annexation  of  the  archipelago  as  an 
integral  part  of  his  states,  and  had  undertaken  the  conquest  by  regular  military 
armaments.  Thus  were  reduced  Palma  and  Great  Canary  in  1493,  and  Tene- 
riffe in  1497,  when  the  menceyn,  or  kinglets,  hounded  down  like  wild  beasts, 
were  cap^^^ured,  baptised,  and  led  in  triumph  to  the  King  of  Castille  for  the 
amusement  of  the  court.  The  conquest  had  occupied  altogether  nearly  a  cen- 
tury. 

But  other  lands  were  still  supposed  to  exist  farther  west,  and  in  1519  the  King 
of  Portugal  yielded  to  Spain  the  undiscovered  island,  which,  however,  a  first 
expedition  in  1526  failed  to  find.  The  belief  "ii  its  existence  still  lingered  on  even 
after  further  efforts  were  made  to  discover  it  by  the  Spaniards  in  1570,  1604,  and 
1721,  and  by  the  Portuguese  from  the  Azores.  At  last  it  was  concluded  that  this 
phantom  island  was  only  a  mirage  of  Palma,  which  it  resembled  in  outline, 
produced  on  the  western  horizon  by  the  refraction  of  the  moist  air  brought  by  the 
west  winds  ;  in  any  case  the  seas  had  already  been  explored  in  every  direction,  so 
taat  further  researches  became  useless.  Yet  the  legend  still  survives,  and 
the  few  adherents  of  the  Sebastianist  sect,  who  await  the  return  of  the  Portu- 


mam 


lame  of  the 
E  the  most 
end  of  the 
when  the 
found  "  an 


visited  by 

from  1351 
it,  Teneriffe 
ts  burning 
lese  oceanic 

favourites, 
y  sovereign 
^dom.  All 
di  Tagghia 
'or  plunder, 
I  once  very- 
times  taken 
empted  till 
a  fifty  men. 
■  provisions, 

failure  had 
irn  for  men 
eventura  in 
slands  were 
ons  by  his 
rcome  until 
wlago  as  an 
lar  military 
,  and  Teno- 
nld  beasts, 
[lie  for  the 
larly  a  cen- 


l 


L9  the  King 
3ver,  a  first 
red  on  even 
),  1604,  and 
ed  that  this 

in  outline, 
oght  by  the 
direction,  so 
irvives,  and 

the  Portu- 


THE    CANARY    IS 


HE    CANARY    ISLANDS. 


1 


Jkp<^ 


eotn  uo. 


m  • 


!<W 


NEW  YORK.  D 


eco  to  /fiO0. 


WCtijmmnU. 


^PHLETONBcC? 


*--_»«*-■■■   < 


'Jl^'l.^^uy,U.J^L'Jj^A').MlL.^-4U^J^~l^^ul^..'-ll:■^fyT'~'"^'J''''?^ 


nMmmrm>t.mmt\' 


GEOLOGY  OP  THE  CANARIES. 


67 


gucse  prince  from  tho  fatal  battlefield  of  Alknzar-el-Kebir,  cherish  the  hope 
that  the  undiscovered  land  will  at  the  same  time  rise  above  the  surface  of  the 
waters. 


Geology  of  the  Canaries. 

The  Canaries  are  not  disposed  in  any  regular  order,  although  roughly  forming 
the  arc  of  a  circle,  whose  conve.x  side  faces  southwards.  But  (iomora  and  Iliorro 
lie  beyond  this  curve,  and  the  archipelago  consists  rather  of  two  distinct  groups — 
Lanzarote,  Fuerteventura,  and  neighbouring  islets  in  tho  east ;  the  five  other  large 
islands  in  the  west.  The  first  group  runs  parallel  with  the  continental  seaboard  ; 
the  second,  on  the  contrary,  is  disposed  at  right  angles  with  vLo  mainland.  The 
two  eastern  islands  stand  on  a  common  submarine  plateau,  whereas  all  the  others 
lie  in  deep  water,  where  in  some  places  a  thousand-fathom  sounding  line  fails  to 
touch  the  bottom.  Lanzarote  and  Fuerteventura  again  are  but  slightly  elevated 
compared  with  the  western  group,  presenting  in  fact  a  steppe  formation  like  that 
of  the  opposite  continent.  All,  however,  are  olike  of  volcanic  origin,  their 
contour  being  nearly  everywhere  broken  by  headlands  formed  by  eruptive  rocks, 
while  the  primitive  or  sedimentary  formations  occupy  a  very  small  space  amid  the 
lava  beds  covering  most  of  the  surface. 

Their  very  aspect  attests  the  antiquity  of  most  of  the  trachytes,  basalts,  or 
obsidians  in  the  western  gproup,  where  the  slopes  of  the  hills  are  generally  furrowed 
by  deep  gorges  excavated  in  the  course  of  ages  by  the  running  waters.  Hence  it 
is  difficult  to  recognise  the  primitive  form  of  the  lava  streams  formerly  ejected 
from  the  volcanoes,  while  in  many  places  the  craters  themselves  have  disappeared. 
Gran  Canaria  (Great  Canary),  central  member  of  the  whole  archipelago,  where  no 
eruption  has  occurred  during  the  historic  period,  has  been  most  weathered  by 
atmospheric  influences,  by  which  the  rocks  have  here  been  sculptured  anew.  Vast 
cirques  have  thus  been  opened  for  the  rains  of  the  interior,  and  the  debris  carried 
away  seawards,  the  amount  of  denudation  representing  a  considerable  part  of  the 
original  insular  mass. 

The  absence  of  vapour  jets  and  of  thermal  springs  also  bears  witness  to  the 
antiquity  of  the  volcanoes  in  the  Canaries,  compared  with  those  of  the  Azores, 
which  still  abound  in  gases  and  boiling  waters.  No  doubt  there  have  been 
extensive  discbarges  of  lava  and  violent  earthquakes  even  since  the  rediscovery  of 
the  archipelago ;  but  these  phenomena  have  been  confined  to  the  three  islands  of 
Lanzarote,  Palma,  and'Teneriffe.  Nor  do  the  local  records  speak  of  ephemeral 
islands  analogous  to  those  heaps  of  scorite  which  have  so  often  appeared  and 
disappeared  in  the  Azorian  waters.  The  only  instance  occurred  during  the  series 
of  eruptions  which  lasted  for  six  years  in  the  western  district  of  Lanz  irote,  when 
flames  mingled  with  vapour  flashed  up  close  in-shore,  and  cones  of  scorioi,  rising 
above  the  surface,  gradually  expanded  until  they  became  attached  as  headlands  to 
the  coast.  On  the  same  occasion  the  marine  inlet  of  Janubio  was  converted  into  a 
lake  by  the  enormous  quantity  of  scoriaQ  thrown  up  by  the  craters. 

68— AF 


U 


1   i 


;«?;. 


68 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Climate  op  the  Canaries. 

Lying  further  south  than  Madeira  and  nearer  to  the  African  continent,  the 
Canaries  have  a  warmer  and  somewhat  less  equable  climate  than  that  group.  The 
annual  extremes  of  tem|)eraturo  are  greater  not  only  in  the  eastern  islands,  which 
are  naturally  influenced  by  the  neighbouring  Sahara,  but  also  in  the  western  group, 
of  which  Teneriffe  is  the  centre.  Here  the  glass  falls  at  Santa  Cniz  to  64°  F.  in 
wfnter,  rising  to  77"  in  summer,  with  a  mean  of  70°  F.,  and  a  difference  of  H** 
between  the  hottest  and  coldest  months.     There  is  no  winter  in  the  European 


Fig.  24.-TEYDE  Peak. 

Soale  t  :  S00,000. 


4- 


Depths. 


0to6fl0 
Feet 


660  Feet  and 
upwai-ds. 

_  18  MilM. 


sense  of  the  word,  the  heat  being  greater  at  this  season  than  the  average  of 
southern  Italy.  Nevertheless,  the  coldest  day  has  a  temperature  of  46"  F.,  while 
summer  is  at  times  too  hot  for  Europeans,  especially  in  the  eastern  group,  where 
the  Saharian  blasts  prevail  much  more  frequently  than  in  Madeira.  With  them 
come  dust-charged  clouds,  blighting  the  vegetation,  causing  the  ground  to  crack, 
men  and  animals  to  pine,  and  at  times  bringing  swarms  of  locusts,  which  in  1588 
were  carried  as  far  as  Teneriffe. 


iP|j|.i.ii.ipiim..     .iumwj 


FLORA  OF  THE  CANABIES. 


m\ 

80' 

-- 

r-Jr"-: 

L==--= 

Mzt 

===== 

6°  BO 

The  Cannrics  have  a  relntively  sHj^hter  rainfall  than  Mudoirn,  and  eHpooially 
than  the  AzoroH,  monthn  ut  tinu-.s  puHaing  without  u  Hinglc  rcfn'shing  Mhowi-r.  ( »n 
an  uvomjfe  there  are  reckoned  three  hundrud  raiiili'Hs  davH,  the  reguhir  rains 
usually  beginning  at  the  end  of  November  and  lasting  two  months.  Tliry  thus 
mainly  coincide  with  the  west  winds,  although  moisture  in  also  precijjitated  at 
other  times,  and  esi)eciully  in  spring,  when  opiM)cing  currents  of  varying  tempirature 
meet  in  this  region.  Tn  winter  the  clash  gives  rise  to  tornadoes,  local  cyclones 
destructive  to  shipping  and  to  the  crops.  Jlut  the  great  cyclones  of  the  West 
Indies  never  sweep  the  Canarian  waters.  During  the  dry  or  summer  season,  from 
April  to  October,  the  aerial  currents  set  steadily  from  north-east  to  south-west,  and 
the  "  brisa,"  or  trade  wind,  is  so  constant  that  uU  navigation  of  sailing  craft  in  the 
opposite  direction  is  entirely  interrupted. 

Owing  to  the  friction  of  opposing  atmospheric  currents,  the  moisture  is  greater 
on  the  plateaux  and  slopes  of  the  mountains.  Thus  on  the  Peak  of  Teyde  a  layer 
of  clouds  intermediate  between  the  trade  winds  and  the  counter  currents  rises  and 
falls  according  to  the  elevation  of  the  zone  of  contact,  usually  descending  in  summer 
down  to  from  3,600  to  6,500  feet  and  in  winter  to  between  1,650  and  2,'JOO  feet  above 
sea-level.  In  Teneriffe  three  aerial  strata — the  counter  wind,  trade  wind,  and 
mariq(  breeze — may  be  observed  all  superimposed  one  above  the  other.  In  proof 
of  this  normal  disposition,  Humboldt  refers  to  two  windmills,  which  worked  nearly 
always  simultaneously,  one  revolving  towards  the  north-west,  the  other  towards  the 
south.  Thus  the  inhabitants  of  Teneriffe  and  of  the  other  mountainous  islands  are 
able  to  remove  at  pleasure  from  one  climate  to  another,  selecting  the  degree  of  heat 
and  moisture  best  suited  to  their  constitutions.  Thanks  to  this  advantage,  the 
number  of  invalids  cor^'ng  to  the  Conaries  in  search  of  renewed  health  is  yearly  on 
the  increase,  and  these  islands  will  probably  in  the  near  future  bo  resorted  to  more 
generally  even  than  Madeira.  .^.  , ,,^ 

r    I,      :    ;  Flora  OF  THE  Canaries. 

With  a  drier  climate  than  Madeira,  and  especially  the  Azores,  the  Canaries 
present  a  leds  verdant  appearance  than  the  northern  archipelagoes,  and  in  many 
places  are  even  quite  destitute  df  vegetation.  In  Lanzarote  and  Fuerteventv :, 
neither  forests  nor  plantations  of  the  same  species  are  any  longer  visible,  and  the 
land  here  assumes  the  aspect  of  the  steppe.  But  patches  of  woodland  still 
survive  in  the  western  group,  and  especially  in  Palma,  at  6nce  the  best-timbered 
and  the  best-watered  of  all. 

But  although  their  vegetation  is  less  exuberant,  the  Canaries  are  distinguished 
from  the  other  archipelagoes  by  a  relatively  larger  number  of  different  species, 
Webb  and  Berthelot's  lists  comprising  as  many  as  a  thousand,  or  more  than  double 
the  number  found  in  the  Azores.  At  the  same  time  it  is  impossible  to  determine 
which  are  strictly  indigenous,  for  even  before  the  arrival  of  the  Europeans  the 
Berber  natives  had  already  modified  the  flora  by  additions  from  the  neighbouring 
continent.     Far  greater  changes  were  made  by  the  Spaniards,  partly  by  clearing 


'^ 


mmm 


I  mwiiiifcw 


<.i«i,^.ie.:-S;aaK'-' 


60 


WEST  AFRICA. 


the  forests,  partly  by  tillugo  and  the  introduction  of  now  forms  directly  from 
Europe.  In  uU  the  arable  tracts  the  1  md  has  felt  the  influence  of  the  plough  to 
un  altitude  of  'i,2o0  feet.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  Severn'  local  species  have 
thus  disap|)earetl,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  thousands  oi  r>'  ic^  hava  found  their 
way  into  the  archiiH>lago.  The  two  most  characteristic  and  ;.,'  ...c'll  lof;.!  fot-nis  are 
the  orange-blossomed  campanula  and  the  gold-tinted  Cetenu.t  nureitm,  and  to  the 
Canaries  Europe  is  also  indebted  for  the  lovely  cineracesD  and  one  .  i  the  finest 
varieties  of  the  chrysanthemum. 

Notwithstanding  their  vicinity  to  Africa,  these  islands,  like  Madeira  and  the 
Azores,  belong  to  the  European  vegetable  domain.  Two-thirds  of  their  plants  are 
European  s|)ecies,  and  most  of  the  native  forms  so  closely  resemble  Eurofxsan  types 
that  they  may  have  formed  part  of  the  continental  flora  at  some  previous  geological 
epoch.  But  in  the  eastern  group,  and  in  the  low-lying  districts  of  the  other 
islands  up  to  altitudes  of  from  1,300  to  2,600  feet,  a  flora  of  Libyan  aspect  cor- 
responds to  an  African  temperature.  Here  flourish  the  fleshy  plants,  euphorbias  of 
cactus  form,  and  such  exotics  as  palms,  nopals,  and  bananas.  In  the  Veneguera 
Valley,  Gran  Canaria,  taba'ihas  or  euphorbias,  large  as  fig-trees,  form  extensive 
forests.  I^ower  down  prevailn  the  thorny  and  poisonous  Euphorbia  canariensia ; 
higher  up  the  Enphofhia  bahmnifem,  with  a  harmless  milky  sap.  The  Dracoenua 
draco,  so  named  from  its  curious  form  and  blood-red  sap,  is  also  characteristic  of 
the  African  zone.  The  gigantic  specimen  of  this  plant  which  formerly  flourished 
at  Orotava,  in  Teneriffe,  and  which,  after  serving  as  a  temple  for  the  pagan 
Guanches,  was  dedicated  as  a  chapel  by  the  Spaniards,  no  longer  exists,  having 
been  blown  down  in  a  gale. 

The  European  zone,  characterised  chiefly  by  laurels  and  by  acclimatised  trees, 
such  as  the  oak  and  chestnut,  occupies  the  middle  slopes  of  the  western  islands. 
Above  the  laurels,  which  flourish  especially  in  Goraera,  follow  the  zones  of  the 
cistus  and  pine,  the  latter  represented  chiefly  in  Palma,  where  is  also  found  the 
Canariun  cedar  {Juniperm  cedrm).  The  native  pine  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
of  conifers,  presenting  characteristics  intermediate  between  those  of  Europe  and  the 
New  World.  Elsewhere  it  occurs  only  in  the  fossil  state,  in  the  Upper  Miocene 
formations  of  the  Spanish  province  of  Murcia.  At  an  altitude  of  6,600  feet  on  the 
Peak  of  Teyde  occur  several  peculiar  plants,  amongst  which  dominates  the  Sparto- 
q/tiaus  niibigenua,  which  has  preserved  its  Arabic  name  of  rfem  under  the  Spanish 
form  of  retaina,  and  which  occurs  in  no  other  country.  With  it  are  intimately 
associated  at  least  four  animal  species  also  found  nowhere  else — a  snail,  a  butterfly, 
a  bird  ( Fringilla  Teydeana),  and  a  phalene. 


_\.  '.  ..l.'-,^,'^'^- ^, '':■■' '.''k    Fauna.  '  ' 

Thanks  to  the  introduction  of  domestic  species  and  parasites,  the  Cunarian  fauna 
has  acquired  a  European  aspect,  while  in  its  lower  organisms  still  presenting  an 
original  character.  Bourguignat  has  shown  that  its  molluscs  constitute  a  distinct 
family,  remotely  allied  to  that  of  Mauritania,  although  far  more  Mediterranean 


INHABITANTS  OF  THE  CANARIES. 


61 


4 
■1 


Dctly  from 
!  plough  to 
KKjies  have 
'uund  their 
1  friT-nia  are 
irnd  to  tho 
I  the  finest 

ru  and  tho 
r  plants  are 
HMJun  types 
s  geological 
f  the  other 
aspect  cor- 
iphorbias  of 
Veneguera 
a  extensive 
canariensk;  ' 
e  Draccenua 
Qcteristic  of 
y  flourished 
'  the  pa<>an 
ists,  having 

utised  trees, 

orn  islands. 

ones  of  the 

found  the 

remarkable 

'ope  and  the 

)er  Miocene 

feet  on  the 

the  Spai'to- 

the  Spanish 

intimately 

a  butterfly, 


mrian  fauna 
esenting  an 
te  a  distinct 
iditerranean 


than  African.  As  in  the  Azores  and  Madeira,  snakes  are  absent ;  but  largo 
indigenous  lizards,  centipedes,  and  scorpions  ulx)und.  ( )f  the  birds,  several  differ 
from  those  of  Europe,  amongst  them  the  red  parti  idgi",  highly  estwjmed  by 
epicures,  and  tho  canary,  which  has  become  so  common  in  EurojKs.  Its  new 
surroundings,  captivity,  food,  climate,  and  crossings  have  gradually  modified  both 
its  song  and  its  plumage,  originally  green,  now  yellow. 

It  is  uncertain  whether  the  mammals  found  in  the  islands  by  the  Europeans  are 
indigenous  or  wore  introduced  by  the  IJerbers ;  but  in  any  case  they  constitute 
distinct  varieties.  Although  Pliny  speaks  of  a  large  canine  breed,  no  dogs  were 
found  by  the  Europeans,  while  those  since  introduced  have  acquired  special 
characteristics.  In  Lanzarote  they  resemble  the  Newfoundland,  and  those  occurring 
elsewhere  look  like  a  cross  between  the  greyhound  and  8heep<log.  The  domestic 
goats, 'numbering  about  sixty  thousand,  also  differ  from  those  of  West  Europe, 
being  larger,  more  agile  and  nimble,  with  a  mild  expression  like  that  of  the 
gazelle,  and  horns  gracefully  curved  backwards.  They  yield  an  extraordinary 
quantity  of  milk,  which  acquires  an  exquisite  flavour  from  the  aromatic  plants  on 
which  they  browse.  A  wild  variety  is  also  found  in  the  islet  of  Montana  Clara, 
near  Lanzarote,  and  in  the  southern  part  of  Fuerteventura.  There  is  also  a 
vigorous  breed  of  camels  in  the  eastern  islands  between  Lanzarote  and  Gran 
Canaria,  introduced  probably  by  the  Berbers. 

The  marine  fauna  is  on  the  whole  more  allied  to  that  of  Europe  than  of  Africa, 
most  of  the  species  being  Iberian,  Mediterranean,  and  British.  There  are  even 
several  American  fishes,  which  do  not  occur  on  the  coast  of  the  neighbouring 
continent.  The  waters  encircKng  the  Canaries  are  amongst  the  best  stocked  in  the 
Atlantic,  and  are  frequented  at  all  seasons  by  hundreds  of  fishing  smacks  without 
materially  diminishing  their  teeming  animal  life.  The  fish  in  most  request  Id  a 
species  of  cod,  rivalling  in  quality  that  of  Newfoundland.  With  more  eflicient 
means  these  fisheries  might  be  more  productive  ;  but  the  fish  are  badly  cured  and 
little  exported,  being  mostly  required  for  the  local  consumption. 

Inhabitants  of  the  Canaries. 

The  Canaries  have  been  .inhabited  from  the  remotest  times.  The  types  of  the 
successive  Stone  Ages  are  perfectly  represented  in  the  archipelago,  where  are  found 
a  thousand  objects,  such  as  hatchets,  clubs,  earthenware,  textiles,  analogous  to  those 
occurring  in  the  prehistoric  mounds  of  Europe  and  America.  But  no  trace  has 
been  met  of  the  flint  arrow-head,  the  lack  of  which  is  explained  by  the  native 
archsQologist,  Chil  y  Naranjo,  by  the  absence  of  rapacious  animals  in  the  islands. 
When  studying  the  multitude  of  objects  already  collected,  the  observer  is  struck 
by  the  progress  made  from  generation  to  generation  in  the  arts  and  industries  by 
the  indigenous  race.  But  the  masterpieces  of  their  skill  were  specially  reserved 
for  t^ae  nobles.  In  the  same  grotto  are  found  fine  garments,  perfectly  worked 
utensils  embellished  with  ornamental  designs  and  hieroglyphics,  side  by  side  with 
coarse  fabrics  and  earthenware.  Thus  has  been  revealed  the  ancient  aristocratic 
constitution  of  Canarian  society. 


'. 


A 


I 


-i 


i\ 


-f' 


.'•■(V^:-  "■■-"-.• 


62  WEST  AFEICA. 

The  islanders  were  unacquainted  with  the  metallurgic  art,  and  whatever  Azurai  a 
may  say  to  the  contrary,  no  iron  implements,  gold  or  silver  ornaments,  have  been 
found  amongst  them.  Nevertheless,  the  solid  construction  of  the  burial-places  in 
Teneriffe,  the  skilful  disposition  of  the  stones  in  the  buildings  of  Fuerteventura, 
Gran  Canaria,  and  Lanzarote,  the  convenient  arrangement  of  the  rooms  in  their 
dwellings,  their  paintings  in  ochre,  all  attest  the  high  degree  of  civilisation  reached 
by  them  in  the  pre-historic  period.  The  chaplains  associated  with  Bethencourt's 
expedition  have  left  on  record  that  in  Fuerteventura  they  saw  "  the  strongest 
castles  that  could  be  found  anywhere."  The  idols,  figures,  and  ornaments  designed 
on  the  vases  bear  a  great  resemblance  to  the  types  presented  on  the  Egyptian 
monuments.  ...,.,,.-,.. 

Inscriptions  in  characters  like  those  of  the  liibyan  alphabet  have  even  been 
found  at  the  verj'  extremity  of  the  archipelago,  in  the  Belmaco  grotto,  Palma,  on  a 
wall  on  the  east  side  of  Hierro,  and  in  Gran  Canaria.  Proof  is  at  least  thus 
afforded  that  relations  existed  between  the  Berber  peoples  of  the  mainland  and  the 
islanders,  although  on  the  arrival  of  Bethencourt  the  latter  no  longer  possessed 
boats,  having  in  this  respect  apparently  deteriorated.  These  inscriptions  also  add 
great  probability  to  the  hypothesis  that  the  natives  were  of  Arabo-Berber  origin, 
all  the  more  that  the  words  of  various  dialects  collected  by  Webb  and  Berthelot,  to 
the  number  of  about  a  thousand,  and  the  proper  names  preserved  by  historians, 
are  evidently  Berber,  also  presenting  some  analogies  with  Arabic.  Benehoare, 
the  old  name  of  Palma,  seems  obviously  identical  with  that  of  the  powerful  Beni- 
Hawara  tribe,  while  the  Bimbashos  of  Hierro  recall  the  Ben-Bashirs.  Teneriffe 
also  supplies  many  proper  names  beginning  with  the  article  al  or  with  the 
substantive  ben  of  the  Semitic  language.  Most  ethnologists  are  of  accord  in 
regarding  the  extinct  Canarians  as  "  one  of  the  noblest  branches  of  the  Berber 
race,"  although  some  writers  have  looked  on  them  as  Kelts,  Basques,  or  even 
Vandals,  on  this  ground  claiming  the  archipelago  as  a  future  province  of  the 
Germanic  empire.  '        -     '=      ■    v*  -'^.^     s: 

The  study  of  the  skulls  and  bones  undertaken  by  modern  anthropologists,  while 
demonstrating  the  diversity  of  races  in  the  archipelago,  still  confirms  the  first 
hypothesis  regarding  the  eastern  origin  of  a  large  number  of  the  inhabitants.  In 
Fuerteventura,  Hierro,  Palma,  and  other  places,  the  cranial  type  is  essentially 
Syro-Arab,  the  identity  being  almost  absolute  between  these  Canarians,  the 
Algerian  Arabs,  and  the  fellahin  of  Egypt. 

All  the  former  inhabitants  are  usually  spoken  of  under  th'j  collective  name  of 
Guanches,  a  term  which,  under  the  forms  of  Vincheni  and  Guanchinet,  seems  to 
have  properly  belonged  to  the  Teneriffe  islanders  alone.  Like  hundreds  of  other 
racial  names,  it  is  said  to  have  meant  "  men,"  "  people,"  the  little  Guanche  race 
constituting  in  their  own  eyes  all  mankind.  According  to  contemporary  evidence, 
these  Berbers,  some  fair,  some  brown,  but  all  with  long  head  and  limbs,  were 
distinguished  from  the  Arabs  by  a  less  robust  body,  less  elongated  features,  less 
retreating  brew,  a  broader  and  shorter  nose,  and  thicker  lips.  They  had  large 
black  eyes,  thick  eyebrows,  fine  hair,  smooth  or  undulating,  the  whole  expression 


L^ 


lLS&££3i£Sas 


»JS»**» 


INHABITANTS  OF  THE  CANAEIES. 


68 


tl^ 


TBT  Azurava 
,  have  been 
iul-places  in 
jrte  Ventura, 
J18  in  their 
ion  reached 
jthencourt's 
le  strongest 
ats  designed 
e  Egyptian 

3  even  been 
Palma,  on  a 
t  least  thus 
and  and  the  ■■ 
•er  possessed  - 
ans  also  add  , 
jrber  origin, 
Berthelot,  to 
f  historians, 

Benehoare, 
rerful  Beni- 
L  TenerifBe 
or  with  the 
if  accord  in 

the  Berber 
les,  or  even 
nnce  of  the 

agists,  while 
ms  the  first 
bitants.  In 
8  essentially 
aarians,  the 

ive  name  of 
let,  seems  to 
eds  of  other 
uanche  race 
iry  evidence, 
limbs,  were 
'eatures,  less 
y  had  large 
e  expression 


being  frank  and  peasant,  corresponding  to  an  unsuspicious,  cheerful,  and  mild 
disposition.  Endowed  with  marvellous  agility,  they  bounded  like  d.  or  from  rock 
to  rock,  and  such  was  their  strength  that  with  two  or  three  blows  of  the  fist  they 
would  break  a  shield  to  pieces.  They  went  naked,  or  clad  with  a  light  garment  of 
grass  or  a  few  goatskins,  smearing  the  body  with  fat  or  the  juice  of  certain  herbs 
to  render  it  insensible  to  changes  of  temperature.  Men  and  v/omen  also  painted 
themselves  in  green,  red,  or  yellow,  expressing  by  such  colours  their  particular 
affections. 

Marriage  usages  differed  greatly  from  island  to  island,  monogamy  prevailing 
in  Teneritfe,  while  polyandria  is  said  to  have  been  practised  in  Lanzarote.  But 
the  women  were  everywhere  respected,  an  insult  offered  to  any  of  them  by  an 
armed  man  being  a  capital  offence.  The  natives  were  also  very  religious,  vener- 
ating the  genii  of  the  mountains,  springs,  and  clouds,  addressing  invocations  to 
them,  imaccompanied,  however,  by  bloody  sacrifices.  In  times  of  drought  they 
drove  their  flocks  to  the  consecrated  grounds,  where  the  lambs  were  separated  from 
the  ewes,  in  order  to  propitiate  the  Great  Spirit  with  their  plaintive  bleatings. 
During  the  religious  feasts  a  general  truce  suspended  all  civil  strife  and  even 
private  quarrels ;  all  became  friends  for  the  time  being.  Priests  and  priestesses 
were  highly  venerated  ;  and  in  Gran  Canaria  a /mean,  possibly  the  Arab  faki/i,  or 
fakir,  presided  at  the  great  solemnities,  his  power  acting  as  a  check  on  that  of  the 
guanarteme,  or  political  chief.  5.;     ■^'  - 

In  some  islands  the  authority  of  these  chiefs  was  absolute,  while  elsewhere 
small  feudatories  were  imited  in  confederacies.  In  Teneriffe  all  the  land  belonged 
to  the  mencet/s,  or  "  kings,"  who  leased  it  out  to  their  subjects.  The  haughty 
nobles  claimed  descent  from  an  au<.«stor  created  before  that  of  the  poor,  who  had 
been  commanded  to  serve  him  and  his  race  for  ever.  They  looked  on  manual 
labour  as  degrading,  and  they  were  especially  forbidden  to  shed  the  blood  of 
animals,  although  they  might  boast  of  slaughtering  men  on  the  battlefield,  and 
burning  or  quartering  their  Spanish  captives.  Nevertheless,  they  did  not  con- 
stitute an  exclusive  caste,  as  any  plebeian  might  become  ennobled  through  favour 
or  in  virtue  of  some  great  deed.  Ite  power  of  the  chiefs  was  also  limited  by  a 
supreme  council,  which  discussed  the  affairs  of  state,  judged  and  sentenced 
criminals.  In  Gran  Canaria  suicide  was  held  in  honour,  and  on  taking  possession 
of  his  domain  a  lord  always  f ouna  some  wretch  willing  to  honour  the  r/ccaislon  by 
dashing  himself  to  pieces  over  a  precipice.  In  return  the  nobleman  was  held 
greatly  to  honour  and  reward  with  ample  gifts  the  victim's  parents. 

In  Palma  the  aged  wei*e  at  their  own  request  left  to  die  alone.  After  saluting 
their  friends  and  relatives,  and  uttering  the  words  Vaca  giiare,  "  I  wish  to  die," 
they  were  borne  on  a  couch  of  skius  to  the  sepulchral  grotto,  and  a  bowl  of  milk 
placed  by  their  side.  Then  all  retired,  never  to  return.  The  method  of  interment 
varied  with  the  different  islands.  In  Teneriffe  numerous  embalmed  mummies  in 
a  perfect  state  of  preservation  have  been  exhumed  from  the  sepulchral  caves  and 
vaulted  chambers  covered  with  vegetable  himius.  These  mummies,  which  belonged 
to  the  wealthy  classes,   were  carefully  wrapped  in  skins  sewn  together  with 


u 


WEST  APEICA. 


surprising  neatness  by  means  of  bone  needles.    The  processes  of  embalmment  seem 
to  have  greatly  resembled  those  of  the  ancient  Egyptians. 

Since  the  sixteenth  century  the  natives  have  ceased  to  exist  as  a  compact 
nation.  For  over  a  hundred  and  fifty  years  they  had  bravely  repelled  the 
attacks  of  corsairs  and  invaders,  although  their  only  weapons  were  stones,  clubs, 
f  nd  darts  hardened  in  the  fire  or  tipped  with  a  sharp  horn.  They  would  have 
remained  unconquered  but  for  the  policy  of  employing  those  already  reduced 
against  the  stUl  independent  islanders.  Although  they  spared  their  prisoners, 
and  often  restored  them  to  liberty,  no  mercy  was  shown  them  beyond  the 
alternative  of  captivity  or  death.  In  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century  Gran 
Canaria  and  Teneriffe  were  still  independent,  with  a  joint  population  of  25,000. 
The  conquest  of  these  islands  lasted  thirty  years,  during  which  most  of  the  men 
were  killed  or  brought  to  Spain  and  sold  as  slaves  in  Cadiz  or  Seville.  Others 
committed  suicide  rather  than  survive  the  loss  of  their  freedom,  while  a  large 
number  were  swept  away  by  the  moUorra,  an  epidemic  like  those  which  have 
recently  carried  ofB  so  many  tribes  in  America  and  Oceania.  The  survivors  were 
baptized,  forgot  their  language  and  customs,  and  gradually  merged  in  the  Spanish 
population.  The  last  descendant  of  Bencomo,  last  King  of  Teneriffe,  took  orders 
and  died  in  1828  at  the  Spanish  court.  '    .  ' 

^  Nevertheless,  Guanche  blood  still  survives  in  the  half-castes  sprung  from 
alliances  between  the  first  Spanish  settlers  and  the  native  women.  Their  distinctive 
features  may  still  be  recognised  in  many  islands,  where  atavism  and  the  environ- 
ment keep  alive  the  old  element  amid  the  Spanish  Canarians.  Like  their  Berber 
ancestors,  the  present  populations  are  of  a  cheerful,  trusting  disposition,  slow  to 
anger,  without  bitterness  or  resentment,  and  very  gentle,  notwithstanding  their 
passion  for  cock-fighting.  In  some  villages  many  of  the  old  customs  are  still 
preserved,  as  well  as  a  number  of  Guanche  family  names,  and  terms  indicating 
plants,  insects,  or  implements.  The  dances  also  and  shouts  of  joy  are  the  same  as 
aniong  the  old  Guanches,  and  like  them  the  present  inhabitants  throw  com  in  the 
face  of  the  newly  married  to  wish  them  luck. 

The  European  elements  are  variously  distributed  throughout  the  archipelago. 
The  Norman  and  Gp?con  followers  of  Bethencourt  and  Gadiffer  were  soon  lost  in 
the  flood  of  the  Spanish  population,  in  which  Andalusian  blood  seems  to  pre- 
dominate. After  the  conquest  Moors  were  introduced  into  Gran  Canaria,  while 
Irish  immigrants  escaping  from  religious  persecution  founded  rumerous  families 
in  Teneriffe.  Some  of  the  villages  in  Palma  were  also  repeopled  by  industrious 
families  from  Flanders,  which,  however,  scon  merged  in  the  Spanish  population, 
even  transLvting  their  Teutonic  names  into  Castillian.  Thus  the  Groenberghe 
("  Greenhill  ")  became  Monteverde,  and  notwithstanding  their  diverse  origin,  all 
the  inhabitants  of  the  archipelago  have  long  been  zealous  Spanish  patriots.  All 
attacks  made  on  their  fortified  towns  were  always  successfully  repelled.  French 
Huguenots,  Barbary  corsairs,  English  buccaneers,  and  oven  a  Dutch  fleet  of  seventy 
ships,  vaiuly  attempted  to  take  either  Teneriffe  or  Gran  Canaria,  and  in  1797 
Nelson  himself  failed  to  reduce  Santa-Cruz,  losing  a  ship  and  an  arm  on  the  occasion. 


jgBggl'gi ! !Jil!i"i.BiHii'P.ili'-I.IIWI'''  \' »  ' 


ment  seem 

a  compact 
ipelled  tlie 
mes,  clubfl, 
Yovld  have 
ly  reduced 

prisoners, 
>eyond  the 
itury  Gran 

of  25,000. 
jf  the  men 
e.  Others 
ile  a  large 
irhich  have 
iTivors  were 
;he  Spanish 
took  orders 

rung  from 

distinctive 

le  environ- 

leir  Berber 

»n,  slow  to 

iding  their 

ls  are  still 

indicating 

le  same  as 

}om  in  the 

rchipelago. 
oon  lost  in 
ns  to  pre- 
aria,  while 
IS  families 
ndustrioos 
)opu}ation, 
oenberghe 
origin,  all 
riots.  All 
French 
of  seventy 
in  1797 


-.^•.^^i-s^If' 


66 


WESr  AFEICA. 


^ 


importance  until  the  vineyards  of  the  Canaries,  like  those  of  Madeira,  were  ruined 
bv  oidiura.  Planters  then  turned  their  attention  to  cochineal,  which  was  first 
introduced  in  1825,  but  was  little  developed  till  1852,  when  guano  began  to  be 
used  to  stimulate  the  growth  oi  the  nopal  cactus,  on  which  the  insect  feeds.  In  a 
few  years  the  production  fur  exceeded  that  of  the  whole  world,  and  extensive 
forests  were  cleared  in  Gran  Canaria  and  Teneriffe  to  extend  this  industry,  which 
still  forms  the  largest  staple  of  export,  although  now  mostly  replaced  by  aniline 
and  alizarine  dyes.  •;  ^r"  !■.  V 

In  1862  several  attempts  were  made  to  introduce  tobacco,  which  succeeded 
beyond  all  expectation,  especially  in  Palnia  and  parts  of  Gran  Canaria.  At 
present  the  Canary  cigar's  are  held  in  almost  as  great  esteem  as  those  of  Havana 
itself.  Of  alimentary  plants,  next  to  cereals,  onions  and  potatoes  are  the  most 
important,  and  are  largely  grown  for  the  Cuba  and  Puerto-Rico  markets. , 
Oranges,  although  of  fine  flavour,  are  no  longer  exporteil. 

The  agricultural  produce  is  insufficient  for  the  constai\tly  increasing  population, 
which  has  consequently  begun  to  emigrate  in  large  nun:berp.  As  comparatively 
few  women  take  part  in  the  movement,  the  census  of  1877  showed  an  excess  of 
20,000  females  over  males  in  a  total  population  of  280,000.  Most  of  the  young 
men  go  to  Havana,  whence,  after  muking  their  fortunes,  a  few  return  under  the 
name  of  "  Indios,"  meaning  in  the  eyes  of  the  natives  that  they  possess  "  all  the 
wealth  of  Ind."  When  Louisiana  belonged  to  Spain  (1765  to  1800)  many 
Canarians  settled  in  that  region,  where  some  of  their  communities  still  maintain 
an  independent  existence. 


Topography — Lanzarote. 

Akgravza,  the  first  island  in  the  extreme  north-east,  scarcely  deserves  this 
appellation,  being  little  more  than  a  rockv  and  aric  aiass  of  lavas  dominated  by  a 
"  caldron  "  or  crater  360  feet  high,  a  lighthouse  on  the  east  side  illumines  the 
waters  of  this  first  Canarian  rock,  which  is  occupied  by  a  solitary  family  engaged, 
in  collecting  orchilla  and  capturing  birds. 

Farther  south  rises  the  cone-shaped  Montana  Clara  (280  feet),  followed  by 
Oruciosa,  which  is  separated  only  by  a  rio,  or  "  river,"  that  is,  a  narrow  channel, 
from  Lanzarote.  It  was  formerly  wooded ;  but  the  timber  having  been  cut  down 
by  the  owner,  most  of  the  island  has  been  covered  with  sand  from  the  Suhara.  The 
sands  have  also  invaded  Lanzarote  itself,  which  now  consists  mainly  of  sand,  ashes, 
and  scorise.  The  slopes  are  destitute  of  trees,  springs  are  rare,  and  the  islanders 
have  in  many  places  to  depend  on  the  brackish  water  of  their  wells  and  cisterns. 

The  hills  of  Lanzarote  develop  a  regular  chain  only  in  the  north,  terminating 
westwards  in  the  volcanic  cones  of  Corona,  Helechos,  and  Famara,  the  last  being 
the  highest  summit  in  the  island.  East  of  Corona  occur  a  nu.nber  of  elliptical  and 
circular  pits,  varying  in  depth  from  30  to  over  60  feet,  and  leading  to  galleries 
formed,  like  those  of  the  Azores,  by  the  rapid  flow  of  lavas  in  a  highly  fluid  state. 
In  some  places  several  of  these  galleries  are  disposed  in  storeys  one  above  the  other, 


LANZAEOTE. 


67 


ere  mined 
was  first 
s;an  to  be 
eds.  In  a 
extensive 
try,  which 
by  aniline 

succeeded 
aria.  At 
)f  Havana 

the  most 
markets. 

population, 
tparatively 
excess  of 
the  young 
under  the 
s  "  all  the 
500)  many 
1  maintain 


lerves  this 
nated  by  a 
imines  the 
ly  engaged. 

)llowed  by 
IV  channel, 
L  cut  down 
hara.  The 
and,  ashes, 
e  islanders 
cisterns. 
?rminatiiig 
last  being 
iiptical  and 

0  galleries 
fluid  state. 

1  the  other, 


and  one  of  them  is  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long.  Nowhere  else,  except  in 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  has  such  a  vast  system  of  volcanic  caverns  been  discovered. 
They  often  served  as  refuges  for  the  inhabitants  and  their  flocks  during  the  incur- 
sions of  the  Barbary  corsairs. 

The  centre  of  Lanzarote  is  traversed  by  a  low  ridge  skirted  on  the  one  side  by 
shifting  sands,  on  the  other  by  lava- streams  with  volcanic  cones  everywhere  strewn 
about  in  disorder.  From  the  Montana  Blanca,  highest  point  (1,400  feet)  of  this 
central  district,  there  stretches  a  chain  of  lava  hills  and  craters  running  north-east 
and  south-west,  west  of  which  the  plains  are  covered  with  coal-black  ashes.  Amid 
these  hills,  bearing  the  expressive  names  of  Playa  Quemada  {"  Burnt  Strand  ")  and 
Monte  del  Fuego  ("  Fire  Mountain  "),  were  opened  the  crevasses  whence  flowed  the 
lava- streams  of  1730  and  following  years,  "at  first  rapidly  as  water,  then  slow  as 

>    ;  Fig.  26. — Reoent  Lavas  OF  Lanzabotk.  ;; 

Scale  1  :  860,000. 


Deptiio. 


Oto  660 
Feet. 


flSOFeet 
and  upwarda. 


6MUe8. 


honey."  During  these  formidable  eruptions  thirty  volcanic  cones  rose  above  the 
lava  fields,  which  spread  over  nearly  one- third  of  the  island,  and  which  in  1824 
again  emitted  flames  and  stream?  of  pestilent  mud. 

San  Miguel  de  Teguise,  or  simply  Teguise,  former  capital  of  Lanzarote,  still 
bears  the  name  conferred  on  it  by  Bethencourt  in  honour  of  his  native  wife. 
Lying  in  a  waterless  district  in  the  centre  of  the  island,  it  has  been  replaced  by 
the  new  capital,  Arvecife,  which  lies  in  the  middle  of  the  east  coast,  between  two 
completely  sheltered  havens  The  northern  port,  Puerto  de  Naos,  is  esr  cially  well 
protected  by  a  chain  of  reefs  fxnd  islets,  and  the  English  traders  here  settled 
monopolise  the  trafilc  with  Mogudor  in  Marocco,  and  with  the  other  islands  of  the 
archipelago. 

The  castle  of  Rubicon,  erected  by  the  conqueror  of  Lansarote,  no  longer  exists, 
but  it  has  given  \i«.  xuiUie  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  island. 


,1 

V 


^■^^:. 


■; ->/;■:■  .v-,;.,^..';* 


68 


WEST  AFEIOA. 


FUERTEVENTL'RA. 

Fuerteventura,  the  Erbania  of  the  old  inhabitants,  is  separated  from  Lanzarote 
by  the  Bocaina  Channel,  only  6  or  7  raili'  wide,  but  everywhere  at  least  650  feet 
deep.  Towards  the  southern  entrance  lies  the  isle  of  Lobos,  consisting  of  a  large 
crater  partly  destroyed  and  encircled  by  lava-streams  and  sandhills.  Like  Lanza- 
rote,  Fuerteventura  presents  an  arid  and  dreary  aspect,  and  is  destitute  of  trees 
except  some  btunted  tamarisks  in  a  few  sheltered  glens,  and  some  clusters  of  date- 
palms,  cocoa-nut,  fig,  and  almond  trees  round  about  the  villages.  But  the  island 
is  better  watered  than  its  neighbour,  having  some  running  streams,  which  however 
become  brackish  before  reaching  the  coast.  The  rocks  also  are  less  porous  than 
those  of  Lunzurote,  so  that  the  rainwater  does  not  disappear  so  rapidly  in  the  soil. 
But  despit  these  advantages  and  its  noted  fertility,  Erbania  hits  perhaps  less 
inhabitants  than  at  the  time  of  the  conquest.  Although  over  60  miles  long  from 
north-east  to  south-west  and  exceeded  in  extent  only  by  Teneriii'c,  it  has  a  smaller 
pop\  lation  than  the  large  towns  of  the  archipelago,  being  at  the  last  census  scarcely 
»nore  than  twelve  to  the  square  mile.  This  is  mainly  'lue  to  the  monopoly  of  the 
land  by  a  few  hands,  over  half  the  island  belonging  to  a  single  family.  The 
southern  peninsula  of  Jandia,  forming  almost  a  separate  island  70  square  miles  in 
extent,  is  held  by  a  single  farmer,  who  in  1883  had  attracted  only  sixty-seven 
inhabitants  to  his  estate. 

\\\  the  north  little  is  seen  except  sands  and  heaps  of  scoria ;  but  the  land 
gradually  rises  southwards,  forming:  a  very  irregular  central  ridge  running  north- 
east and  south-west,  and  consistir-j^  of  crystalline  rocks,  syenites,  diorites,  diabases, 
With  here  and  there  layers  of  argillaceous  schists  and  limestones.  Kight  and  left 
of  the  ridge,  craters  have  appeared,  while  lavas  fill  all  the  depressions.  The  ridge 
terminates  southwards  in  the  Cardon  Hills,  connecting  it  with  the  rugged  Jandia 
peninsula  by  a  chain  of  basalts  and  limestones  scarcely  350  feet  high,  but  abruptly 
rising  to  2,650  feet  on  the  west  coast.  Formerly  the  peninsula  was  cut  off  from 
the  rest  of  the  island  by  a  cyclopean  wall,  all  traces  of  which  have  not  yet  dis- 
appeared. '  »       .  V  . 

Like  Teg) use  in  Lanzarote,  Betccim  ia  in  Fuerteventura  has  lost  the  rank  of. 
capital  gi'ian  to  it  by  its  founder,  the  cuiqueror  of  the  island.  The  present 
capital  v.i  Puerto  de  Cabran,  the  chief  centre  of  population,  on  the  side  facing  the 
Africr.n  niainland.  But  the  largest  towns,  such  as  Casillus  del  Angel,  Ampuyenta, 
Ahrlgua,  and  Tuineje,  fro  gron])ed  in  the  fertile  plains  of  the  central  districts, 
btmnded  by  the  steep  cJldti  and  xava~£cTds  of  the  ''  Mai  pais." 


?•.. 


A 


■^  *.  .    'Vs* 


Gran  Canaria. 


Oran  Catiaria,  whicli  gives  its  name  to  the  whole  archipelago  of  which  it 
occupies  the  geographical  centre,  differs  in  its  general  relief  altogether  from  the 
eastern  islands.  Instead  of  presenting  long  ridges,  isolated  masses,  or  distinct 
volcanoes  dotted  over  the  plains,  it  constitutes  a  single  mountain  mass  with  flattened 


'  ■litMiar.aMMiiiMiM* 


GRAN  CANARIA. 


9» 


Lanzarote 
650  feet 
f  a  large 
ce  Lanza- 
)  of  trees 
s  of  date- 
;he  island 
1  however 
rous  than 
1  the  soil, 
haps  less 
long  from 
a  smaller 
IS  scarcely 
oly  of  the 
lily.  The 
I  miles  in 
ixty- seven 

the  land 
ng  north- 
,  diabases, 
;  and  left 
The  ridge 
ad  Jandia 
t  abruptly 

off  from 
;  yet  dis- 

8  rank  of 
le  present 
'acing  the 
mpuyenta, 
districts, 


which  it 

from  the 

■  distinct 

flattened 


cone  rising  above  the  surrounding  waters.  The  epithe'^  "  Great "  would  seem  to 
have  been  applied  to  it  by  Bethencourt,  not  on  account  of  its  size,  ranking  only 
third  in  this  respect,  but  in  honour  of  the  valour  of  its  inhabitants.  Its  nearly 
round  contour  bristles  with  headlands,  especially  on  the  north-west  side,  formed  by 
the  projecting  spurs  of  the  central  mountain.  If  the  form  of  the  coast  is  due,  as 
seems  probable,  to  the  erosion  of  running  waters,  the  currents  must  evidently  have 
trended  directly  east  and  west.  Such  a  hypothesis  woui>.  be  fully  in  accord  with 
the  existence  of  a  former  Atlantis,  by  which  the  waters  of  the  Gulf  Stream  would 
have  been  deflected  southwards.  ;.   ...  . 

But  however  this  be.  Gran  Cunaria  presents  a  summary  of  all  the  other  islands, 
at  least  in  the  variety  of  its  geological  phenomena,  and  the  beauty  of  its  scenery. 
It  has  its  "  caldrons,"  like  Palma,  its  wild  barrancas,  or  gorges,  and  waterfalls  like 
Gomera,  its  lava-streams  and  sandhills  like  Lanzarote,  its  pine  forests  like  Hierro 
and  Teneriffe,  besides  extensive  cultivated  tracts,  aqueducts  kept  in  good  repair, 
some  rising  industries,  and  a  relatively  well-developed  trade.  It  is  also  compara- 
tively more  densely  peopled  than  the  rest  of  the  archipelago,  although  nearly  half 
of  its  rugged  surface  cannot  be  reclaimed  for  tillage. 

The  central  peak  of  Pozo  de  la  iJfieve  ("  Snow  Pit  ")  rises  tea  height  of  nearly 
6,700  feet  almost  in  the  geographical  centre  of  the  island.  But  this  peak  is  a  cone 
of  very  small  size  resting  on  a  dcime-sliaped  pedestal,  which  formerly  occupied  all 
the  centre  of  the  island,  and  above  which  rise  some  other  craggy  heights,  such  as 
the  "rocks  "  of  Saucillo,  of  Curabre,  Bentaiga,  and  !Nublo,  the  last-named  forming 
a  monolithic  block  380  feet  hi{^h.  ;, 

Close  to  the  south-east  base  of  the  central  cone  is  seen  the  profound  Tirajana 
gorge,  which  has  been  eroded  to  p  depth  of  over  4,000  feet,  and  which  sends  its 
overflow  seawards  through  the  narrow  fissure  of  Los  Gallegos.  The  west  side  of 
this  abyss  presents  two  wide  openings  towards  the  south  and  south-west  of  the 
island,  where  the  Caldron  or  Cirque  of  Tejeda  forms  a  regular  amphitheatre 
enclosed  by  an  unbroken  rocky  wall  21  miles  in  circumference.  From  the  edge  of 
the  precipice  a  complete  view  is  commanded  of  the  vast  ellipse  with  its  numerous 
converging  streams,  lines  of  wooded  crests,  and  scattered  villages.  On  the  sur- 
rounding plateaux  a  few  clusters  of  pines  still  survive,  mere  remnants  of  the 
forests  which  formerly  clothed  all  the  higher  grounds  in  the  island. 

Besides  these  large  cirques  produced  by  erosion,  there  are  others  formed  by 
volcanic  action.  Such  are,  east  of  the  Cumbre,  the  Caldera  de  los  Marteles,  with 
a  stream  rushing  down  over  a  series  of  waterfalls,  and  the  Caldera  de  Bandama, 
a  perfectly  round  and  regular  crater  near  some  Tertiary  conglomerates  in  the 
north-east  of  the  island.  This  caldron,  which  has  a  depth  of  770  feet,  has  been 
compared  by  Leopold  von  Buch  to  the  Lago  d'Albano  in  the  Latin  hills.  Near  it 
is  the  Cima  de  Giuamar,  another  igneous  openmg,  which  has  ouly  been  half  filled 
in.  There  still  remains  a  "  bottomless "  funnel,  in  which  long  echoes  are 
awakened  by  stones  thrown  from  side  to  side. 

The  moot  recent  lavas  in  Grnn  Canaria  appear  to  be  those  of  Isleta,  a  small 
group  of  insular  volcanoes  connected  with  the  north-east  angle  of  the  large  island 


70 


WEST  AFRICA. 


by  the  sandy  isthmus  of  Guanarteme.  The  sands  of  this  narrow  causeway,  now 
planted  with  tamarisks,  consist  chiefly  of  the  remains  of  shells  and  foraminifene 
gradually  consolidated  into  a  granular  limestone  with  marine  concretions  added 
on  both  sides.  These  recent  limestones,  flecked  in  black  by  volcanic  sands,  are 
employed  for  making  excellent  filtering  stones,  used  in  all  the  houses  of  Canaria. 
At  the  time  of  the  conquest  the  isthmus  of  Guanarteme  was  still  nearly  flush  i^ith 
the  water,  and  completely  inundated  by  high  tides.  Some  columnar  and  other 
basalts  to  the  north-west  of  Isleta  recall  the  Giant's  Causeway  on  the  north  coast 
of  Ireland.  -  :  .■       -        >    "'   ^.  i ,  ^-  A    , 

Las  Palmas,  capital  of  the  island  and  largest  city  in  the  archipelago,  lies  near 
this  sandy  limestone  isthmus,  at  the  opening  of  the  deep  Guiniguada  gorge,  and 

Fig.  27.— CiEauE  of  Tejeda. 

Boale  1  :  830.000.  ' 


Depths. 


■.V./V'v 


oto6ao 
Itet. 


060  Feet  and 
UpwartiA 


.6BCiIea. 


on  the  surrounding  terraces  of  conglomerate,  where  a  few  shady  palm-groves 
justify  its  name.  The  upper  town  is  occupied  by  the  officials,  the  lower  by  the 
trading  class,  commanded  on  the  west  by  the  Castillo  del  Rey,  the  chief  strong- 
hold in  the  island.  Las  Palmas  presents  somewhat  the  appearance  of  an  Arab 
town,  with  its  low  flat-roofed  white  houses  looking  like  an  irregiilar  flight  of  steps. 
The  numerous  caverns  in  the  neighbouring  rocks  are  still  inhabited,  as  in  the  time 
of  the  Berbers.  Good  water  is  brought  by  an  aqueduct  from  the  hiUs,  and  carriage 
roads  lead  to  the  surrounding  outskirts.  The  port  lies  nearly  two  miles  to  the 
north,  where  the  coastline  curves  round  the  isthmus  of  Guanarteme  to  Isleta.  La 
Luz,  as  it  is  called,  doubtless  from  its  lighthouse,  was  greatly  exposed  to  the  east 
winds  until  the  construction  of  the  breakwater,  which  runs  from  Isleta  m  nine 


uniujiimj 


ORAN  CANAEIA. 


71 


way,  now 
imiuifereD 
)n8  added 
iands,  are 
Canaria. 
lush  with 
md  other 
arth  coast 

,  lies  near 
orge,  and 


lay 


■.:1 


ilm- groves 
ver  by  the 
ef  strong- 
'  an  Arab 
kt  of  steps, 
in  the  time 
d  carriage 
les  to  the 
sleta.  La 
to  the  east 
ita  in  nine 


fathoms  of  water  for  4,750  feet  southwards.  Over  forty  ocean  steamers  now  visit 
the  port  every  month,  and  the  freedom  from  custom-house  charges  enjoyed  by 
Gran  Cunaria  will  doubtless  soon  attract  many  vessels  which  at  present  stop  at 
Saint  Vincent  and  Madeira.  Las  Palmas  is  also  an  industrial  and  scientifio 
centre,  with  archajological  and  natural  history  collections,  and  a  fine  cathedral  in 
the  Spanish  Renaissance  style.     As  a  health  resort  it  offers  many  advantages  to 

Fig.  28.  -  Noeth-Eaot  Slope  op  Gran  Canabia. 
Settle  1 :  aoo,000. 


0  to  (100 
FMt 


DepUu. 


eOO  to  6,600 

Feet 


fi.flno  Feet  and 
npwflrds. 

Miles. 


invalids,  who  can  here  enjoy  the  benefit  of  the  mineral  and  acidulated  waters 
abounding  in  the  neighbourhood. 

•  Next  to  Las  Palmas,  Tefde  is  the  most  important  place  in  the  island.  It  lies 
on  the  east  coast,  in  the  midst  of  gardens,  orchards,  and  orange-groves  yielding 
excellent  fruits.  The  slopes  west  of  the  capital  are  occupied  by  Aruras,  tHrgas, 
nnd  Teror,  and  on  the  Kttle  port  of  Las  Sardims  in  the  north-west  lies  the  ancient 


'A 


7> 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Fig.  29.— Las  Palxas  anb  Post  of  La  Luz. 

Sonle  I  :  87,000. 


town  of  Go  Mar,  former  refiidence  of  the  native  kingn.  On  the  west  side  the 
largest  place  is  Aldea  de  San  Nicolas,  and  on  the  south  coast  nothing  is  seen 
except  some  traces  of  the  old  Herbcr  town  of  Argiiint>guin,  where  Wehb  and 
Berthelot  found  the  remains  of  four  hundred  houses. 

Numerous  villages  are  scattered  over  the  cirques  and  on  the  slopes  of  La 

Cimibre.  The  most  elevated 
of  these  is  Artenam,  which 
stands  nt  an  altitude  of  over 
4,000  foot  iii  the  caldron  of 
Tejeda,  all  its  houses  being 
excavated  in  the  brownish 
tufa  of  the  mountain.  Nearly 
all  the  inhabitants  are  char, 
coal-burners,  who  have  com- 
pletely cleared  many  of  the 
former  wooded  slopes. 

Texeriffe. 

Teneriffe  (Tenerife,  Toner- 
fiz,  or  the  "White  Mountain," 
as  explained  by  some  etymolo- 
gists), is  the  largest  island  in 
the  archipelago.  Here  is  also 
the  loftiest  volcano,  the  far- 
fumed  Peak  of  Teyde,  which 
has  at  times  been  seen  to  vomit 
from  above  the  clouds  fiery  lava- 
streams  down  its  steep  fianks 
seawards.  Few  other  oceanic 
beacons  can  compare  with  this 
majestic  cone  standing  out 
in  white  and  light  blue  tints 
against  the  deeper  azure  ground 
of  the  firmament.  But  although 
visible  at  times  from  distances 
of  120  and  even  180  miles,  it 
is  too  often  wrapped  in  a  vapour 
mantle,  concealing  it  altogether  from  the  eager  gaze  of  mariners. 

The  island  itself,  unlike  Gran  Canaria,  consists  of  three  distinct  sections 
differing  in  their  general  aspect  and  geological  age.  The  north-east  section 
mainly  comprises  the  old  igneous  uplands  of  Anaga,  cut  up,  eroded  in  every 
direction,  and  at  their  base  carved  out  by  the  action  of  the  waves  into  deep 
indentations.     The  western  section  also  consists  of  an  isolated  mountain  mass,  the 


tito8i 
Feet. 


UeptliH. 


82  to  80 
Feet. 


i< )  Foe  and 
vpwjiTds. 


8,200  Varl*. 


I 


jj^iii:«tiiiiijt^>y4i-t.|fwf l|g;jM-j|^pw|igi^H^  it-,  J  4v<#g^'.nfW.'!  "J 


TENERIFFE. 


73 


Sierra  de  Teno,  dating  from  a  primitive  geological  period,  and  consequently 
(similarly  eroded  at  its  buHo  by  the  sea.  IJotwcen  these  two  sections  towers  the 
lofty  cone  of  the  comparatively  recent  volcano,  larger  than  b(jth  the  other  systems 
combined,  and  connected  with  them  by  lava-streams  and  intervening  volcanoes. 
The  juxtaposition  of  three  independent  groups  belonging  to  successive  ages  has 
imparted  to  Teneriife  a  general  aspect  very  different  from  that  of  the  other 
islands  belonging  to  the  same  geological  epoch.  Instead  of  developing  a  circular 
contour  like  Gran  Canaria,  Gomera,  and  so  many  other  islands  of  like  origin, 
Teneriife  has  the  outlines  of  an  irregular  triangle,  the  upex  of  which  belongs  to 
recent  and  the  other  two  angles  to  older  formations.  It  is  thus  an  Atlantic 
Trinacria,  like  the  Mediterranean  Sicily,  the  land  of  iEtna. 

Most  of  the  island  consists  of  ashes  and  scoriae  with  steep  rocky  escarpments. 
But  it  also  prf^sents  some  romantic  valleys,  all  on  the  north  slope,  exposed  to  the 
trade  winds,  as  well  as  some  cirques  whose  rich  vegetation  presents  a  strikir  g 
contrast  to  the  gloomy  walls  of  encircling  lavas.  Thanks  to  these  productive 
oases  of  verdure,  Teneriffe  is  abl'  to  support  a  relatively  dense  population, 
although  Its  chief  resources,  winr  cochineal,  now  yield  but  slight  returns. 

The  hills,  which  begin  in  u  uorth-east  corner,  near  Cape  Anaga,  do  not 
constitute  a  continuous  chain,  although  their  rocky  peaks,  one  of  which  rises  to  a 
height  of  3,420  feet,  follow  in  succession  from  east  to  west  as  far  as  the  plateau  of 
Laguna.  At  the  Anaga  headland  now  stands  a  first-class  lighthouse,  and  the 
plateau  is  crossed  at  a  height  of  1,870  feet  by  the  main  highway  of  the  island 
between  Santa  Cruz  and  Orotava.  The  uplands  of  the  Laguna  terrace  are  inter- 
rupted by  a  sudden  gap,  beyond  which  the  land  again  rises,  developing  a  regular 
chain  commanded  by  the  heights  of  Guimar,  and  again  interrupted  by  a  profound 
depression.  Beyond  this  depression  stands  a  volcano  which  rose  in  1705,  dis- 
charging a  stream  of  lava  eastwards  nearly  to  the  coast.  It  is  the  first  cone  of 
the  encircling  wall,  which  develops  a  semicircle  east  and  south  of  the  Peak  of 
Teyde,  and  which  presents  on  a  far  larger  scale  the  same  aspect  as  the  wall  of 
La  Somma  round  Vesuvius.  It  is  the  largest  known  formation  of  this  class  on  the 
surface  of  the  globe,  having  a  total  length  of  33  miles  and  a  height  of  over  6,700 
feet,  above  which  several  of  its  peaks,  such  as  Azulejos  und  Guajarra,  rise  to  9,000 
feet  and  upwards.  The  concave  side  of  the  chain  faeing  the  peak  of  Teyde  com- 
mands a  plateau  of  lava  and  scoriae  lying  some  1,000  feet  lower  down,  while  on 
the  outer  side  all  the  narrow  and  deep  crevaisaes  of  the  crest,  hence  known  as  the 
Circo  de  las  Caiiadas,  are  disposed  in  deep  barrancas  descending  in  di\  erging  lines 
to  the  coast.  The  western  extremity  of  this  system  merges  in  u  •'  mal  pais,"  or 
chaos  of  lavas  strewn  with  volcanoes,  one  of  which,  the  Chahorra,  attains  an 
elevation  of  8,270  feet.  Farther  west  the  cones,  are  so  numerous  that  the  inter- 
vening lava-streams  ramify  in  all  directions  like  a  vast  labyrinth.  The  outer  edge 
of  the  mass  rising  above  the  Tt-no  heights  ends  in  the  Montatia  Bermeja,  or 
"Eed  Mountain,"  whence  was  ejected  a  stream  of  lava  in  the  year  1706.  Thus 
recent  lavas  mark  both  extremities  of  the  enclosure  which  encircles  the  base  of  the 
dominating  volcano,  the  Echeyde  of  the  old  inhabitants,  now  known  as  the  Peak 

69— AF 


At 


-■■41 

■m 


Ifeet),  whore 


-f^. 


)  that  veiled 


/ 


^tmnttt^ 


^^^ 


,%.. 


*;/^, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


V 


A 


{./ 


%P  /MS) 


/ 


& 
^ 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


It    i^' 


1.4 


M 

12.0 

1.6 


I 


V] 


<? 


/i 


/ 


^^ 


'/ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


<^ 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


I 


1 1 

•f  1 

*4« 


ii 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


.'.\hi'\:':-:^'-' 


^^Vt?^; 


s!5s^3p;^<'tvi»a^ia«^^f 


mi>wmmMSi^99mm^ 


^mm^mk.'''''^^- 


i 


TENEEIFFE. 


76 


land  and   sea,  but  in  full  sip^ht  of  the  fiery  stars  which  darted  their  golden  rays 
against  the  black  vault  of  night. 

Although  far  from  being  the  loftiest  i^eak  on  the  globe,  as  was  long  supposed, 
tlie  Peak  of  Teydo  is  none  the  less  one  of  the  grandest  summits  visible  from  the 
ocean.  Amongst  volcanoes  it  is  unique  for  its  height  and  isolation  in  the  centre 
of  the  primitive  crater  above  which  it  has  risen,  "  a  mountain  built  upon  a 
mountain."  It  dominates  by  0,080  feet  the  ruined  cinjuo  encircling  it,  and  from 
its  sunniiits  all  other  peaks  in  Teneriffe  seem  depressed.  It  is  easy  to  understand 
the  veneration  with  whicli  it  was  regarded  by  the  (iuanclies,  whose  most  solemn  oath 
was  that  taken  in  its  mnne.  When  the  explorer  reaches  the  plateau  whence  the 
supreme  cone  rises  l,(j.")0  feet  higher  than  Vesuvius,  he  perceives  that  what  from 
below  looked  like  forests  was  really  formed  by  streaks  of  pumice,  lines  of  red 
scoriic,  bands  of  black  lavas,  indicating  a  long  series  of  eruptions  continued 
through  successive  geological  ages. 

To  the  south  stands  the  vast  Pico  Viejo  crater,  lO.rjOO  feet  high,  still  filled 
with  semi-Huid  scoriio,  like  a  huge  cahlron  about  to  overflow.  Although  the 
great  eruptions  of  Teyde  are  very  rare,  oc(;nrring  not  more  than  once  in  a  century, 
symptoms  of  smouldering  fires  are  constantly  ])en'eptible.  The  walls  of  the  highest 
crater  are  covered  with  a  snow-white  efflorescence,  whence  are  emitted  jets  of 
steam  at  a  temperature  of  about  180°  F.  mixed  with  sulphurous  gases  and 
carbonic  acid,  but  in  such  slight  quantities  that  dense  vapours  are  seldom  seen 
to  rise  above  the  summit.  JVevertheless,  the  temperature  is  sufficiently  high  to 
support  animal  life  even  at  this  great  elevation,  and  on  arriving  at  the  summit  the 
explorer  is  surprised  to  find  the  crater  swarming  with  insects,  such  as  flies  and 
bees,  and  even  swallows  and  a  species  of  finch  peculiar  to  the  peak.  But  the 
gases  are  seldom  sufficiently  abundant  to  melt  the  snows  which  whiten  the  cone 
in  winter.  A  grotto  known  as  the  Cucva  del  Yelo  (  "  Ice  Cave"  )  is  every  year 
filled  with  snow  and  ice,  yielding  a  constant  supply  to  the  inhabitants  of  Orotava. 


Mt 


m 


%?IJ; 


ToPOORAI'HY. 

Santa-Cruz,  capital  of  Teneriffe,  the  Anaza  of  the  Guanchcs,  rivals  Las  Palmas 
in  trade  and  population.  It  lies  on  the  north-cast  coast,  where  its  little  harbour 
is  sheltered  from  the  south  winds  by  a  breakwater  which  advances  a  few  yards 
every  year.  On  the  plateau  west  of  Santa-Cruz  stands  Lagxna,  the  "  Lake  "  town, 
which,  however,  has  lost  its  lake  since  the  rainfall  has  diminished  through  the 
reckless  destruction  of  the  surrounding  forests.  Laguna  itself  is  in  a  state  of 
decay;  but  the  neighbouring  villages  oi  Aiioi/a,  and  especially  Tar/aitaiia,  occupy- 
ing the  most  fertile  and  best-cultivated  district  in  the  island,  enjoy  a  large  measure 
of  prosperity. 

West  of  Laguna  the  main  highway  of  the  island,  running  in  the  direction  of 
Orotava,  is  flanked  by  several  flourishing  towns  surrounded  by  orchards  and 
gardens.  Such  are  Tacoronte,  which  possesses  a  museum  of  Guanche  mummies, 
with  arms  and  implements ;  Sauza/,  where  some  lava  quarries  are  worked,  similar 


IW  ' 


f 


7C) 


WEST  AFRICA. 


to  those-  of  Volvic  ill  Auvergne  ;  Mutanza,  whoso  name  recalls  the  "  slaughter  " 
of  eight  hundred  Spaniards  with  their  native  auxiliaries;  Victoria,  where  in  149o 
the  (idchtiitddo  Lugo  avenged  his  defeat  of  the  previous  j'oar ;  Snnta-  Ufsii/a,  almost 
within  sight  of  (>rof)ir<i.  This  place,  representing  the  ancient  Arnfnjui/n,  capital 
of  the  Aniphictyonic  council  of  all  the  kingships  in  the  island,  occupies  the  centre 
of  a  verdant  cirque  •'}  miles  from  its  port  on  the  seacoast.  During  the  flourishing 
period  of  the  wine  industry,  when  the  famous  vintages  of  malvoisie  and  "canary" 
were  jjroduced,  this  "  puerio  "  was  a  very  busy  place,  although  possessing  only  an 
exposed  roadstead.  The  sheltered  harbour  of  Garachico,  lying  farther  west  on  the 
same  north  coast,  was  nearly  destroyed  by  an  eruption  from  the  Montana  Bermeja 


Fig.    31.  — NOBTHEBN   EXTREMITY  OF  TeNEUIFFE. 
Soiile  1  :  riOO.OOO. 


West    of    ?^r\ 


l6°_-;o' 


West   oT    ureenwirVi 


iG'-iO' 


0  to()»iO 
Feet. 


Depths. 


660  to  .<J.800 
Feet. 


8,300  Feet  nnd 
upwuiils. 


12  Miles 


in  170G.  An  unexplored  cavern  in  the  neighbourhood  is  said  by  the  natives  to 
communicate  with  the  terminal  crater  of  the  volcano  by  a  gallery  nearly  9  miles 
long. 

On  the  east  slope  of  the  island  the  town  of  Guimnr  occupies  a  position  analogous 
to  that  of  Orotava  on  the  opposite  side.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  the  Cuevas  de 
los  Reyes,  or  "  Royal  Caves,"  the  most  extensive  sepulchral  grottoes  of  the  former 
inhabitants. 


GoMF.RA. 

Qomera,  which  has  preserved  its  Berber  name,  is  separated  from  Teneriffe  by 


-  ■*  »•  ^-"^  ?^"  It'V-i- 


„!6»;5=^i'-*=.-rc*-FT7>*- 


-• *<«VI»  -wrt(»■.-iW^■»«f?*rv.»■■^-,^pI3-,^^!fr-.(l«.«TI6?l^y-^^^^^ 


GUMKKA. 


77 


lugliter  " 
0  in  14!)o 
Id,  almost 
'd,  capital 
ho  ci'utre 
ourisliiiij^ 
"canary" 
<j  only  an 
est  on  the 
,  Bermeja 


30- 


3?8° 


natives  to 
•ly  9  miles 

analogous 
Cuevas  de 
the  former 


a  strait  17  miles  wide.  Like  Oran  Cimaria,  which  it  ro'^cml)los  in  miniature,  it 
consists  of  a  sinf,'le  volcanic  cone,  with  a  central  peak  and  a  nearly  regular 
circular  ])crii)herv  indented  hy  cinpies.  It  is  com])oscd  mostly  of  old  lavas,  whoso 
craters  have  gen(>rally  been  obliterated,  ajid  in  which  the  running  waters  have 
excavated  deep  barrancas  and  circpies,  whence  the  streams  escajje  through  narrow 
precipitous  gorges.  The  island  has  been  eroded,  especially  on  the  west  side  ;  iind 
while  the  cliifs  facing  Teneriffe  have  an  average  height  of  from  ;{0()  to  4(10  feet, 
those  over  against  Ilierro  rise  to  2,000.     Its  forests  are  comparatively  more  exten- 

Fig.  32.— GoMKHA. 
Soile  I  :  .sao.mx). 


17' so 


7°iO'   West   of"    GreenwioU 


Depths. 


0to>)60 
Feet. 


COO  Feet  and 
upwards. 

___  6  SlUes. 


eneriffe  by 


sive,  and  it  is  also  better  watered  than  Canaria.  But  although  it  might  thus 
support  a  relatively  larger  population,  it  is  less  densely  peopled,  owing  to  the 
feudal  system  of  tenure,  which  has  been  here  maintained  moi-o  ojjpressively  than 
elsewhere  in  the  archipelago. 

The  Alto  de  Garajonai',  cidminating  point  of  Gomera,  stands  on  the  southern 
edge  of  the  central  plateau,  falling  rapidly  southwards  to  the  coast,  but  on  the 
other  sides  everywhere  presenting  gently  inclined  wooded  slopes.  Towards  the 
west  it  terminates  in  a  huge  block,  which  seems  shaped  by  the  hand  of  man  ; 
hence  is  called  by   the  natives   the  Fortaleza,  or  "  Fortalice."     North   of   the 


lis  U; 


78 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Garajonai  stands  a  porfectlj'  ro£?iilar  crater,  on  the  level  bed  of  which  the  local 
militia  musters  for  drilliiifj;  purposes. 

Of  all  the  Canary  islands,  Gomera  abounds  most  in  cascades,  thanks  to  its 
abundant  waters  and  steep  precipices.  Near  C//<}>»(/c,  the  hij>:hest  villajj^e  in  the 
island  (4,000  feet),  a  rivulet  falls  GOO  feet  into  the  Argaga  gorge,  while  the 


if: 


Fig.  33.— rALMA. 
Scale  1  :  .'HW.OOO. 


Depths. 


UtoiiOO 
Feet. 


660  Feot  imd 
iipKard8. 

— ^  '.I  Miles. 


Agula  cascade  on  the  north  side  is  visible  from  TenerifFe,  a  distance  of  22  miles, 
whence  it  looks  like  a  silver  streak  on  an  emerald  ground.  The  forests,  in  some 
places  de8trt)yed  by  the  charcoal-burners,  consist  mostly  of  laurels,  often  growing 
to  a  height  of  80  or  even  100  feet,  and  forming  shady  avenues,  like  the  beeches 
and  chestnuts  of  western  Europe. 


i 


rf^yn^ *wgww'gi">-^ffnnBp»Klg l^-Mftuffiv.'; •fri'iWKKtai-Ji wMT' "'a-i-  *nnn»-)'\',^::..  _  ... 


[;--WE*w«fH'aih)WnvwnKmwwr*i' 


.!55r^^*-S«^" 


the  local 

iks  to  its 
igo  ill  the 
while  the 


E  22  miles, 
;s,  in  some 
n  growing 
he  beeches 


PALMA. 


79 


San-Scbastia)!,  the  capital,  lies  near  the  eastern  angle  of  Goniera  on  a  piTfectly 
sheltered  creek,  surrounded  hy  gardens  and  date-palms,  yielding  a  fruit  of 
exquisite  flavour.  The  cirque  of  V(illi'-llcrm<m),  on  the  north  coast,  contains  over 
ten  thousand  of  these  trees,  the  fibre  of  which  is  used  for  weaving  mats,  and  the 
fruit  for  making  palm-wine  and  honey. 

Pai.ma. 

Pahna,  no  less  noted  than  Teneriffe  for  its  romantic  scenery,  consists  like  it  of 
different  geoh)gical  formations.  The  northern  section,  nearly  round  in  shajie, 
forms  an  isolated  dome,  in  wliich  occurs  the  most  remarkable  caldron-like  forma- 
tion in  the  world.  The  trianguhir  southern  extremity,  of  more  rei-cnt  origin,  is 
constituted  by  a  distinct  chain  of  volcanoes,  running  in  the  direction  of  the 
meridian,  and  connected  with  the  northern  mass  through  the  narrow  ridge  of  the 
Cumbre,  or  "  Summit." 

Certain  well-watered  districts  are  extremely  fi-rtile,  while  the  timber  and 
fisheries  are  also  highly  productive.  Ileuce  Palma  is  one  of  the  most  densely 
peopled  islands  in  the  archipelago. 

The  highest  summits,  the  ^Nluchachos,  Cruz,  and  Cedro  peaks,  rise  above  a 
semicircidar  ridge  in  the  north,  where  the  convex  .slope  of  the  hills,  scored  by 
deep  gorges,  fulls  precipitously  down  to  the  sea.  But  on  its  inland  side  the 
amphitheatre  of  mountains  suddenly  develops  a  prodigious  chasm  about  9  miles 
round.  This  is  the  Cnhlvvd,  or  "  Caldron,"  in  a  pre-eminent  sense,  whose  steep 
walls  full  abruptly  to  a  depth  of  4,000  feet  down  to  the  gently  slo^jing  grassy 
plains.  Seen  from  below,  these  stupendous  cliffs  strike  the  spectator  with  amaze- 
ment, the  effect  being  much  heightened  by  the  contrast  between  the  vast  amphi- 
theatre of  diverse  coloured  rocks  and  the  charming  scenery  at  their  feet  In  the 
centre  of  this  marvellous  natural  temple  the  natives  formerly  worshipped  their 
gods,  assembling  (m  solemn  occasions  nmnd  about  the  "Idafe,"  a  rock  in  the  form 
of  an  obelisk,  and  offering  it  prayers  and  sacrifi(!es.  In  their  thoughts  this  rock 
doubtless  typified  the  stability  of  their  race,  if  not  of  the  island  and  the  whole 
world. 

The  ridge  of  La  Cumbre,  connecting  the  northern  and  southern  mountain 
systems,  is  traversed  at  an  altitude  of  over  4,670  feet  by  a  fine  carriage-road, 
which  affords  a  means  of  communication  lietween  the  populations  of  both  slopes. 
The  southern  slope  is  dominated  by  the  central  peak  of  Vergoyo,  which  exceeds 
6,700  feet.  Js^umerous  streams  of  black  marble  descend  from  the  main  ridge,  both 
sides  of  which  are  strewn  with  cones  and  craters.  Notwithstanding  the  wasteful 
habits  of  the  people,  pine  forests  still  clothe  a  large  part  of  the  range,  from  the 
southern  extremity  of  which  flows  the  Chareo  Verde,  a  copious  mineral  stream 
frequented  by  invalids. 

Santa-Cruz  dc  la  Pahna,  capital  of  the  island,  and  centre  of  its  trade  and 
industries,  lies  on  a  little  bay  on  the  east  coast.  On  the  same  slope  are  the  villages 
of  Mazo  and  Lo8  Sauces,  near  the  latter  of  which  is  the  grotto  which  has  become 
famous  for  its  Berber  hieroglyphics  and  inscriptions. 


3rii 


W^J' 


K;8 


"JSSiB^'' 


B" 


HO 


WEST  AFKIf'A. 


lIlEIlRO. 


Jfitrro  (Fcrro,  or  "  Iron  ").  smallest  aiirl  least  po()])lc(1,  is  als(»  tlio  most  ncoanic 
I md  of  the  ari']iijH'la<:^().  To  ttic  natives  it  was  known  by  the  name  of  Kxpro, 
which  has  lutii  variously  iiitei'in'eti'd,  but  which  had  not  probably  tho  same 
moaninfi:  as  its  Spanish  substitute,  llicrro  is  rarely  visited,  and  has  little  to  offer 
stran<jcrs.  liut  notwitlistandin^'  th<ir  <;reat  poverty,  tht>  natives  are  said  to  be 
the  most  hospitable  and  kindly  of  all  the  Canary  island(>rs.  The  land  is  here  more 
Rubdivided  than  elsewhere,  althou<>-h  a  single  feudal  lord  is  tho  nominal  owner  of 
the  whole  island. 

llierro  is  of  triangular  shape,  with  its  apex  turned  lowards  Teneriffe,  and  its 


i 


m 


«ti 


Fig.  34.  -  HiERRO. 

Sonic  1  :  ;);)i),(«)0. 


0  to  660 

Feet. 


Deptlis. 


66n  Feet  and 
iipwurdB. 

^—  e  Miles, 


bnse  facing  the  Atlantic.  TJut  the  elevated  part  of  the  island  presents  a  somewhat 
fantastic  appearance.  In  the  north-west  it  is  disposed  in  semicircular  form  by  u 
steep  clilf,  the  section  of  a  perft  ctly  regular  crater.  On  one  side  this  basaltic  clifE 
terminates  in  a  sliaip  point  prolonged  seawards  by  the  Salmore  reefs,  on  the  other 
by  the  rounded  headland  cf  Dehesa,  where  spars,  fruits,  and  other  flotsam  from 
America  are  often  Avashed  up  by  the  western  currents.  Towards  the  centre  the 
cliff  rises  to  a  height  of  4,080  feet  above  the  sea. 


Bih 


Ti-'.»i>» *»«-  -v-j ■-. vaFrn^-^'*^^ .Vtr^ ' c.'-^ v-^T-awc^y iitPim^- JfT^ta-'j.. ; riggs^'-a 


'T*r»«fTcr*iB'7K«fi\r  ^l*"* 


ADMIXISTHATION  OF  THE  I'AXAltlES, 


81 


st  ocoanic 
of  Exero, 
the  sumo 
le  to  olVi'i- 
!ui<l  to  bo 
lioro  moro 
owiior  of 

fo,  aud  its 


:  50- 


:h 


somewhat 
form  by  a 
saltic  clifE 
the  other 
tsam  from 
centre  the 


Ths  oastom  phitoau,  still  pirtly  oovorod  with  forests,  prosonts  a  somewhat 
atialo<>:ous  crcsooiit  formation,  l)ut  with  a  much  smaller  diameter.  Near  it  is  the 
site  of  Los  Z'/rrroA,  where  wore  found  iiiseiiptioiisaml  raised  stones  resemblinj;  tho 
menhirs  of  Brittany. 

Numerous  craters  and  thermal  sprinf^s  are  scattered  over  various  parts  of  tlie 
island.  One  of  the  central  craters  is  said  to  hav(>  emitted  vapours  durinji;  the  tirst 
half  of  the  present  century;  hut  Fritseh  explored  the  <,'rouiul  in  vain  for  some 
traces  of  this  i)henonienon  The  famous  laurel  has  also  disappeared,  which  fi;rew 
to  tho  north-west  of  Valverde,  and  which  was  credited  by  tlie  iKi])ular  fanev  with 
the  faculty  of  sucking  up  aud  eondensin*?  the  marine  vapours,  thus  su])plving 
enough  water  for  the  wants  of  eight  thousand  persons  un<l  a  hundi-ed  thou.suud 
head  of  cattle. 

Fc//rr/'r/f,  capital  of  tho  island,  lies  lu^ir  tho  northern  extremity,  iit  an  altitude  of 
2,180  feet  above  tho  son.  It  communicates  by  zig/ag paths  with  its  port,  the  Puerto 
(/('  7//r/vo,  formed  by  a  small  creek  on  the  east  coast.  In  the  neighbouring  grottoes 
have  been  found  Timnorous  muumiies  of  the  ancient  I}ind)ashas,  or  IJen-lJashirs. 

Ilierro  has  become  famous  as  the  point  through  which  runs  the  lino  htng 
accepted  by  some  nations  as  their  first  meridian.  Knowing  m)  land  beyond  tho 
Canaries,  tho  Greeks  naturally  regarded  them  as  tho  end  of  the  world,  and 
necessarily  calculated  the  meridians  from  this  extreme  region  of  the  known  world. 
15ut  after  the  discovery  of  western  lands  lying  farther  west,  some  geographers 
fixed  their  zero  of  hmgitudo  in  the  Azores,  !Morcator  selecting  Corvo,  at  that  time 
crossed  by  the  magnetic  meridian.  Nevertheless  the  Greek  tradition  lonff 
survived,  and  most  cartograjjhors  drew  their  initial  line  through  Toneriffe.  lUit 
in  consoepience  of  a  decision  taken  in  1G34  on  tho  advice  of  the  most  distinguished 
mathematicians,  France  officially  adopted  Hierro,  which  was  supposed  to  lie 
exactly  :20  degrees  west  of  I'aris.  Fouille  in  1734  and  others  subsequently 
endeavoured  to  fix  its  position  more  accurately,  but  their  determinations  wore  not 
of  accord.  Now,  however,  it  is  known  that  Ilierro  does  not  lie  20  degrees  west  of 
Paris,  and  consequently  that  the  meridian  bearing  its  name  does  not  touch  the 
island,  running  in  fact  1'2  miles  farther  east.  Hierro  is  now  no  longer  taken  as 
the  first  meridian  by  any  country. 

AnMINISTR.VTIOX    OF    THE    CaX ARIES. 

The  Canaries  -corrstitute  a  province  of  Spain,  sending  six  deputies  to  the  Cortes, 
and  represented  by  tAvo  or  three  notables  in  the  Senate.  Santa-Cruz  do  Teneriffo 
is  the  residence  of  the  civil  governor  and  of  the  Captain-General  of  the  archipelago, 
while  Las  Palmas  is  the  seat  of  the  High  Courts.  Trade  is  exempt  from  all 
customs  dues  beyond  an  impost  of  one-thousandth  on  imports  and  a  slight  tax  on 
wines  and  tobacco.     Each  island  contributes  a  small  contingent  to  the  army. 

The  archipelago  is  divided  into  ninety-throe  ni/iiiifamieiifos,  or  communes,  of 
which  twenty  take  the  title  of  cities  or  towns.  The  reader  is  referred  to  the  Appen- 
dix for  a  table  of  the  population  of  the  islands  and  the  chief  urban  communes. 


m 


m 


II 


'I-   ■ 
} 


&'Hi 


m3 


82 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Thk  Cai'k  Vkki)  ARcnii'Ki.Ar.o. 

Thoso  Atlantic  islands  bear  a  name  for  which  it  would  be  well  to  find  a  sub- 
stitiitc;  for  it  is  j\istiticd  neither  by  the  fjrcoojraphical  position,  the  }>;eolooi,iil 
constitution,  nor  the  history  of  the  group.  They  are  distant  at  their  nearest  point 
no  less  than  'JHO  miles  from  the  African  headland  after  which  they  are  named, 
while  the  interveniuf?  waters  are  no  less  than  '2,2o{)  fathoms  deep.  Hence  they 
are  true  oceanic  lands,  and  in  no  sense  natural  dependencies  of  the  continent. 
Wh(>n  the  south-i'astern  -^'i-oup  of  the  archipelago  was  first  reached  by  explorers 
the  cai)e  had  already  long  bt-en  known.  Since  that  time — that  is,  over  four 
hundred  years  ago — the  first  uppellation  has  been  maintained,  so  that  no  change 
could  nf)W  be  tolerated  by  all-powerful  custom.  Nor  is  there  anything  to  justify 
the  alternative  expressicm  Gorgades,  or  "Islands  of  the  (jorgons,"  for  the  text  of 
Pliny  referring  to  these  fabled  lands  could  scarcely  be  applied  to  an  archipelago  ut 
such  a  distance  from  the  coast  known  to  the  ancients.  The  Spaniards  for  a  time 
called  them  the  Santiago  Islands,  and  the  Dutch  the  Salt  Islands,  while  on  Juan 
de  la  Cosa's  chart  they  figure  as  the  Antonio  group,  from  one  of  the  first  dis- 
coverers. 

This  question  of  discovery  has  been  much  discussed.  According  to  Major 
(Life  of  Prince  Hviin/  of  Pot'tiujal)  Diego  Gomes  was  the  fi'-st  to  reach  the  archi- 
pelago; but  the  passage  relied  on  by  this  English  author  has  been  differently 
interpreted  by  other  commentators.  In  his  Xariqatiom  the  Venetian  merchant 
Cadamosto  claims  for  himself  and  the  Genoese  Usodimare  the  honour  of  having 
discovered  the  islands  of  Boa-Vista  and  neighbouring  lands  in  the  year  14-j(),  and 
despite  some  real  or  apparent  contradictions  in  his  statement,  he  is  probably 
entitled  to  this  honour.  Four  years  later  the  group  was  again  visited  by  the 
Italian  Antonio  di  Noli  in  the  service  of  Portugal,  who  in  a  single  day  verified  the 
existence  of  Maio,  Sam-Thiago  ("  Saint  James  ")  and  Fogo,  which  last  he  named 
Sam-Felippe. 

How  or  when  the  other  members  of  the  archipelago  were  first  sighted  and 
explored  has  not  been  clearly  determined ;  but  no  doubt  the  work  of  exploration 
was  rapidly  completed  by  those  who  had  received  grants  of  the  parts  already 
surveyed.  Nevertheless  forty  years  after  Antonio  di  Noli's  voyage,  Sam-Thiago 
and  Fogo  had  ahme  been  occupied  by  small  settlements.  The  others  were  peopled 
during  the  course  of  the  sixteenth  century  by  Portuguese  colonists  and  Negroes 
imported  from  the  neighbouring  continent.  But  Salt  Island  remained  unsettled 
till  the  present  century,  and  certain  islets  are  still  uninhabited.  Compared  to  the 
extent  of  the  archipelago  the  population  is  slight,  a  fact  due  to  the  scarcity  of 
water.  With  a  total  area  of  1,400  square  miles  there  were  probably  not  more 
than  105,000  inhabitants  in  188G,  or  about  seventy  to  the  square  mile. 

The  archipelago  is  disposed  in  irregular  groups,  forming  a  large  curve  of  some 
300  miles,  with  its  convex  side  turned  towards  the  African  mainland.  This  curve 
begins  in  the  north-west  with  Santo- Autam,  which  is  the  second  largest  member  of 
the  archipelago.     It  is  continued  south-eastwards  by  Sam- Vicente  (Saint  Vincent), 


CAl'H  VKIM)  ISLANDS. 


b» 


1(1  a  sul)- 
eoloyiciil 
est  point 
i-  nanuHl, 
nee  they 
ontlnent. 
L'Xplorers 
ver  four 
3  change 
to  justify 
B  text  of 
pclago  ut 
or  a  time 
!  on  Juan 
first  (lis- 

to  Major 
he  archi- 
ifferently 
nierehant 
of  luivine^ 
l4-")(5,  and 
probably 
(1  by  the 
jrified  the 
he  named 

;htod  and 
iploration 
:8  alreudy 
m-Thiago 
re  peopled 
i  Negroes 

un  Mettled 
red  to  the 
icarcity  of 

not  more 

vc  of  some 

Ibis  curve 

member  of 

Vincent), 


Santa-Lu/ia,  Illu-o  Ilraneo,  llln'o  Ua/o,  Sam-Nicolau,  whose  hills  or  mountains  all 
run  in  a  direct  line,  thusconstitutinjj^  (juite  a  separate  group,  which  from  a  distance 
looks  like  u  single  island  indented  with  deep  inlets.  Farther  east  Salt  and  Wnu- 
Vista,  continued  south-westwards  by  the  Hank  of  .loam  Leitano,  form  a  second 
group  at  the  eastern  verge  of  the  semicircU'.  Lastly  the  soutliern  section 
comprises  Maio,  Sam-Thiago,  Togo,  llravu,  and  a  few  islets.  ^VU  the  northern 
islands,  including  Salt  and  Una- Vista,  take  the  collective  name  of  IJarlovento, 
or  "  Windward,"  the  four  others  that  of  the  "  Leeward  "  Islands. 

Fig.  35.— Cape  Vebd  Islands. 

Seal'-  I  :  .'i.iiio.fxio 


in.Wo  Feet  and 
upwai-ds. 


,  60  SlUes. 


The  Cape  Verd  archipelago  .seems  to  belong  to  an  older  geological  epoch  than 
the  almost  exclusively  volcanic  Canaries  and  Azores.  All  the  islands  have  no 
doubt  their  craters  and  eruptive  rocks,  while  Santo- Antam  and  Fogo  consist 
exclusively  of  scorioo  and  lavas.  But  in  the  others  are  also  found  crystalline 
rocks,  granites,  syenites,  and  "foyaite,"  so  called  from  Mount  Foya  in  Algarve. 
Fine  metamoiphic  marbles  and  sedimentary  rocks  also  occur,  and  Maio  is  especially 
remarkable  for  the  relative  extent  of  its  non-igneous  formations,  a  fact  which 
certainly  favours  the  theory  of  an  Atlantic  continent  formerly  occupying  these 
waters. 


WM 


>,,,.'/ 


134 


WHST  Al'MilCA. 


The  mclup.'lapo  i.lso  (lill'ois  from  the  Can  ics  imd  Azcrrs  in  llio  ^r,.,u.nilly 
(luicsccnt  state  (if  its  Vdlcaiiif  Iniros.  With  tin-  fxiciitinii  uf  1'^^,,,  nniu-  of  tho 
(■iat«Ts  have  Imm-u  in  eiupt ion  since  tho  discovn-y,  and  eufthciuakes  are  also  rare, 
n(.  vioh-nt  shneks  having,'  been  recorded,  except  in  Ihuva,  at  th(«  south-west 
oxtreniity  of  the  seniicinle.  Iron  abounds,  especially  in  the  sduthern  f,'roup, 
where  an  extremely  rich  titutnite  of  iron  occurs  on  the  coasts  in  tho  form  of  black 
sand,  and  in  such  (piantitics  that,  when  heated  by  the  solar  rays  even  the  Xof,'roos 
do  not  venture  to  tread  the  ji:round.  Countless  cargoes  of  iron  ore  might  here  bo 
shipl)c'd. 

Cl.lMATF.. 

As  in  the  other  Athmtic  groups,  th(>  mean  t(>mporatnre,  equalised  by  tho  sur- 
rounding waters,  is  loss  elevated  than  on  the  African  continent  under  the  same 
latitude.  At  the  observatory  of  Praia,  in  Sam-Thiago,  it  was  7">  F.  in  1.H77,  tho 
two  extremes  in  the  same  year  showing  a  ditferonce  of  -W  :  hottest  day,  Septem- 
ber JMh,  !»I^'  F.,  coldest,  l)ocend)or  13th,  (11  F.  The  neigh ixmrhood  of  tho 
African  coast  and  tho  inHuonco  of  tho  east  wind  explains  this  wide  rungo. 
The  climatic  conditions  are  almost  exclusively  determined  by  tho  atmospheric 
currents,  on  which  depend  the  heat,  moisture,  and  salubrity  of  the  air.  AN'hen 
the  north-east  trade  winds  prevail,  that  is,  fronv  October  tr)  May,  the  sky  is  clear 
except  at  sunrise,  when  tho  eastern  honzon  is  always  overcast.  Then  follows  tho 
wot  season,  from  Juno  to  September,  during  which  tho  laud  is  watered  by  heavy 
.showers,  "as  necessary  to  the  inhabitants  as  are  tho  waters  of  the  beneticent  >«ilo 
to  the  Egyptian  felhihiu."  liut  the  rains  and  accompanying  storms  are  less  regular 
tlian  on  the  mainland  under  the  same  latitudes,  ami  at  tiuu's  the  moisture  is 
insutficient  to  water  the  crops,  and  then  tho  inhabitants  are  decimated  by  famine. 
Snmetimi's  also  the  north-east  trade  wind  is  deflected  to  tho  continent,  wheiu-o  it 
blows  over  the  islands  like  the  blast  of  a  hot  furnace.  It  then  takes  the  mime  of 
ffufe,  that  is,  "east  wind,"  which  is  the  harmnttan  of  the  Arabs. 

From  tho  desert  this  wind  brings  a  huge  quantity  of  sand,  which  is  deposited 
on  the  islands  in  the  form  of  impalpable  dust.  These  dust  storms  may  occur  at 
anv  time,  except  perhaps  in  tho  months  of  August  and  September,  that  is,  tho 
season  of  calms,  of  variable  winds  and  of  heavy  showers  brought  by  the  sea-breezes. 
The  archipelago  lies  well  within  tho  zone  of  "  dry  rains,"  which  extends  between 
;)-•  and  U)°  N.  latitude  to  a  distance  of  l,'-200  miles  seawards  from  the  African  coast. 
Helmann's  observations  show  that  this  phenomenon  of  yellow  and  red  sandy 
clouds  lasts  at  times  several  days,  and  prevails  over  a  space  of  some  lL*0,000  square 
miles.  To  supply  such  a  prodigious  quantity  of  powdered  rock  extensive  mountain 
ranges  must  have  been  worn  away  during  the  cour,se  of  ages,  whence  the  present 
aspect  of  certain  Iramadas,  or  stony  wastes,  in  the  Sahara,  which  for  vast  spaces  offei 
nothing  but  smooth  polished  rock  swept  clean  by  the  east  wind.  Some  of  the 
dust  clouds  mingled  with  animalculnc  appear  to  bloAV  with  the  counter  atmospheric 
currents  from  South  America,  but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  great  mass  of 
these  sands  comes  from  the  African  desert. 


^ri^«w3'rr=y-^\i'^-5a?;^g^{:3iP!K^'^M^rssr*:^s5is?)K7?K^?^ 


<'S5i^S«" 


iil« 


jfciionilly 
HI-  ut'  tin- 
also  rare, 

)lltll-W('st 

nf   hliuk 
it  hole  1)0 


\-  the  Hiir- 
ihc  wniie 
1877,  llio 
,  Sopti'in- 
)(l  of  tho 
le  riiiigo. 
mospheiic 
•.  AN'lu-u 
LV  is  cU'iir 
)ll()\vs  the 
by  heavy 
ioeiit  2ii\o 
m  rei^uhir 
loisturo  is 
ly  famine, 
wheiu'o  it 
e  uume  of 

deposited 
y  occur  ut 
lut  is,  tho 
sa-breezes. 
s  between 
ican  coast, 
red  sandy 
)00  square 
nioimtain 
lie  present 
paces  oflei 
ne  of  the 
raospheric 
at  mass  of 


CAPK  VKRD  Isr-.WDS. 


83 


Th»^  ^rciu'ial  Miliibiity  of  tlic  islands  is  in  many  ])Iaccs  alfoitcd  l>y  the  ])iesonco 
of  swampy  tracts  and  staj,Miant  waters,  jjidduciiij;-  (ly>cntciy  and  marsh  fever,  espe- 
cially on  the  coast  of  Sam- riiia^;o.  The  evil  is  larjxcly  due  to  tlic  icckless  destruction 
of  the  fnrests  on  the  hillsides,  which  causes  the  laiiis  to  run  olf  rapitUy  iVoin  tho 
surface  ut'  the  uplands  and  to  lod^a'  in  the  depressions  on  the  lower  },'roiinds.  The 
sh)pcs  nii^'ht,  howcxer,  he  easily  replanted,  as  sliown  Ity  the  results  of  seveial 
essays  in  this  direction.  Some  of  the  upland  valleys  in  the  hijjher  islands,  risin<>; 
;{,(M)0  and  even  (),()(•(»  feet  and  upwuids  above  the  sea,  also  pre  eiit  lavniirable  sites 
for  liealth  resorts. 

Flora. 

The  indi;4:enous  flora  of  the  archipelafjfo  has  not  yet  been  studied  with  the  san.o 
care  as  that  of  tin-  other  Atlantic  j-nnips.  This  is  partly  due  to  tlie  greater 
distance  from  Kuro])e,  and  partly  to  tlie  somewliat  inaccessible  nature  of  many 
districts.  Saint  Vincent  also,  where  nearly  all  strangers  land,  ha])])eiis  of  all  the 
islands  to  be  most  destitute  of  vejifctation,  consisting,  in  fact,  of  little  more  than 
bare  rocks  and  scoria;.  Although  one  of  its  hills  takes  the  name  of  Monte  \  erdo, 
it  has  little  to  sliow  except  a  few  tamarisks,  and  in  ISSO  the  wliole  island  contained 
only  two  trees,  both  exotics,  an  eucalyptus  aiul  u  barren  date-palm.  Salt,  Hoa- 
Vista,  and  Muio  present  tho  same  arid  aspect,  but  the  mountainous  lands,  espo- 
cially  Santo-Antani  and  Sam-Thiago,  oiler  in  many  places  verdant  valleys,  due 
entirely  to  the  introduction  of  African  plants.  Not  a  single  tree  appears  to  be 
here  indigenous,  even  the  dracana  having  probably  been  imported  from  tho 
Canaries,  or  from  the  neighb(mring  continent.  At  jn-esent  Sam-Thiago  possesses 
some  baobabs  and  other  Senegambian  trees;  but,  although  lying  under  the  same 
lat  tude  as  the  West  Indies  and  Sudan,  the  urchipelago  nowhere  i)resents  the 
splendour  of  the  tropical  flora. 

Excluding  the  cultivated  plants  of  recent  introduction,  the  known  species 
number  about  four  hundnul,  of  which  not  more  than  one-sixth  forms  the  original 
stock  of  the  islands.  The  uati\<!  types  are  essentially  Atlantic,  and  allied  rather 
to  those  of  the  temperate  zone,  presenting  in  this  respect  a  much  more  northern 
aspect  than  might  be  supposed  possible  I'om  their  tropical  position.  Canariau 
tyjjes  are  also  somewhat  numerous,  especially  in  Santo  Antam  and  the  other  members 
of  the  Windward  group.  Hut  most  of  the  exotics  come  from  xVfrica,  whereas  those 
of  the  Canaries  are  mainly  European.  Nevertheless,  .some  ^lediterraneau  species 
also  occur  on  ii,ti  uplands,  especially  on  the  hilly  districts  of  Sauto- Antam  and 
Sam-Thiago. 

Fai  NA. 

The  aboriginal  fauna  comprises  but  few  distinct  species.  The  monkey,  seen 
only  in  Sam-Thiago  and  Brava,  belongs  to  the  Cvrcopithecm  Sabwus  family  of  the 
African  continent.  Nor  do  the  wild  boars  of  the  Sam-Thiago  thickets  constitute  a 
separate  variety  ;  while  all  the  other  mammals,  whether  domestic  cattle  or  noxious 


i 


± 


m 


III 


m 


■M 


mmst^i!sx:--' 


'  ~:9S'^WW^^'  '^:^'W7^?p;s^5-''*5T^^^-?L¥'?^?:^''^''^r53ffr^ 


86 


WEST  AFRICA. 


animals,  such  as  rabbits  and  rats,  have  been  introduced  from  Europe.  The  guinea- 
hen,  which  the  natives  do  not  eat,  is  extremely  common,  and  the  sea-mew  whirls 
in  clouds  above  the  strand  and  reefs.  Some  of  the  islets  are  covered  with  thick 
deposits  of  guano,  forming  a  valuable  resource  for  the  peasantry  of  the  neighbour- 
ing ishmds.  \Vollaston  asserts  that  snakes  are  found  in  some  places,  but  this  is 
denied  by  the  natives,  and  Doelter  failed  to  discover  any. 

Ilhoo  BraiKo,  the  '  White  Island,"  an  islet  in  the  north-west  group  between 
Santa  Luzia  and  Sam-Nicolau,  is  distinguished  from  all  tlio  others  by  a  ])ecidiar 
fauna.  Here  are  large  lizards  [Mdcoscrnciisi  cocfci)  elsewhere  unknown,  which  live 
on  a  vegetable  diet,  not  on  insects  like  their  congeners  elsewhere.  The  puffins 
here  discovered  by  the  members  of  the  Ta/isuniii  expedition  also  constitute  a  new 
variety  of  this  bird.  The  islet  has  not  yet  been  ci)mi)letely  explored,  but  even 
should  nothing  further  be  discovered,  the  existence  of  two  original  species  in  such 
a  niicrocosmos  is  one  of  the  most  curious  facts  in  natural  history. 

The  surrounding  waters  are  well  stockfd.and  a  single  haul  of  the  net  on  a  bank 
teeming  with  life  suffices  to  capture  thousands  of  fishes.  Even  in  the  lower  depths 
marine  organisms  are  scarcely  less  abundant.  From  2,000  feet  below  the  surface 
the  fishing-gear  of  the  Talisman  brought  up  about  a  thousand  fish  and  nearly  two 
thousand  prawns  of  different  species.  These  resources  would  be  ample  for  the 
local  wants  and  for  a  large  export  trade,  but  for  the  fact  that  a  very  large  number 
of  the  animals  in  these  tropical  seas  are  poisonous  Crustaceans,  gasteropods,  and 
niolluscs  also  abound,  as  well  as  two  species  of  coral,  the  Corallium  riihrum  like  that 
of  Sicily,  and  the  Pleuwcorallhtm  Johnwm,  a  white  variety,  so  named  by  the 
explorers  of  the  Challenger.  Some  Xeapolitans  settled  in  Sam-Thiago  are  engaged 
in  the  coral  fishery,  which  has  become  an  important  local  industry. 

IXHAIUTAMS. 

The  Portuguese  are  traditionally  said  to  have  found  two  indigenous  blacks 
vhen  they  landed  on  Sam-Thiago.  Feijo  also  states  that  some  Wolof  Negroes, 
escaping  from  their  enemies,  Avere  borne  by  the  currents  and  winds  to  the  large 
island,  which  they  ijcopled.  ]5ut  such  a  voyage  would  have  been  little  short  of 
miracidous,  for  the  Wolofs  never  jiossessed  any  craft  beyond  open  canoes,  while  in 
these  waters  the  winds  and  currents  move  southwards;  nor  do  any  contemporary 
chronicles  speak  of  the  islands  being  inhabited  when  discovered.  The  first  settlers 
were  undoubtedly  some  free  Portuguese  and  Negro  slaves. 

In  14()l  some  families  from  Alenitejo  and  Algarve  accompanied  the  feudatory 
lords  to  whom  the  islands  had  been  granted  as  fiefs.  But  the  great  bulk  of  the 
immigrants,  who  settled  first  in  Sam-Thiago  and  Fogo,  were  Wolofs,  Felups, 
Balantos,  Papels,  and  other  Negroes,  captured  on  the  neighbouring  mainland.  In 
14()i)  an  exclusive  monopoly  of  the  slave  trade  was  granted  to  the  local  feudatories 
by  Alfonso  V.,  in  consequence  of  which  the  neighbouring  coast  becanu^  a  hunting- 
ground  where  the  landowners  procured  the  slaves  required  for  their  plantations. 

The  tropical  heats,  the  distance  from  the  mother-country,  the  degradation  of 


•^■n-r:--m-'%v^-i^.:. 


■••'^-T'^;-'^'"!  s!  j;,:  '^ 


CAPE  YERD  ISLANDS. 


87 


labour  through  the  employment  of  slaves  and  convicts,  have  hitherto  prevented  all 
Portuguese  immigration  properly  so-called,  and  for  four  hundred  years  the  only 
whites  in  the  archipelago  have  been  officials  and  landowners.  Nevertheless  some 
crossings  have  taken  place,  and  although  the  population  cimsists  almost  exclusivelv 
of  coloured  people,  there  has  been  a  gradual  approach  to  tlie  white  tv])e.  In 
general  the  natives  have  regular  features,  with  straight  prominent  noso,  slightly 
crisped  hair,  and  very  oi)en  facial  angle.  The  men  are  of  tall  stature  and  of  noble 
carriage,  the  women,  at  least  in  Santo-Antiini,  of  handsome  figure  and  features. 
])ut  great  differences  are  observed  in  the  different  islands,  which  must  be  attributed 
to  the  varying  degree  of  mixture  and  of  European  culture,  to  tlie  diverse  pursuits, 
such  as  fishing,  agriculture,  trade,  and  so  forth. 

In  prosperous  times  the  population  increases  rapidly,  the  annual  excess  of  births 
over  deaths  being  more  than  u  thousand.  Notwithstanding  frecpient  droughts 
attended  by  teirible  famines,  the  number  of  inhabitants  rose  from  sixty  thousand 
to  u  hundred  thousand  tetween  the  years  1H44  and  1H79.  Yet  epidemics  have  at 
times  been  scarcely  U-ss  destructive  than  the  famines,  and  when  the  cholera  passed 
lilvo  a  fiaming  sword  over  >Sam-Nicolau,  some  villages  were  completely  depopidated. 
The  dead  remained  for  days  unbuiied  in  tlie  streets  of  the  capital,  and  houses  are 
still  shown  which  have  ever  since  remained  untenanterl. 

All  the  natives  call  themselves  Catholics,  and  are  held  as  such,  baptism  having 
brought  them  nominally  within  the  pale  of  the  Church.  Ivich  island  has  its 
temples  and  priests,  mostlj'  men  of  colour,  who  are  preferied  by  the  "  faithful," 
because  tliey  interfere  less  with  the  pagan  rites  introduced  from  Africa.  Many 
devout  Christians  still  believe  that  tho  /c  if  ice  ros,  that  is,  "fetish  men  "  or  wizards, 
have  the  power  of  making  themselves  invisible,  of  poisoning  air  and  water,  of 
spreading  blight  and  disease  over  plants,  animals,  and  men.  Against  their  fatal 
power  appeal  is  made  to  the  eiiraiidciros,  or  "  medicine  men,"  at  times  more  for- 
midable than  the  fetish  men  themselves. 

At  Saint  Vincent  European  customs  are  steadily  gaining  ground,  but  many 
African  usages  still  linger  in  the  other  islands,  and  especially  in  Sam-Thiago, 
where  the  Negro  element  is  less  mixed  than  elsewhere.  The  bride  has  .still  to  be 
carried  off  by  a  feigned  show  of  abduction.  At  funerals,  especially  when  the 
death  is  attributed  to  the  spells  of  a  magician,  the  traditional  ceremonies  of  the 
guisa  are  scrupulously  observed,  a  procession  of  howlers  preceding  the  dead,  the 
women  tearing  their  hair  and  beating  their  breasts,  men  creating  a  tremendous  din 
with  their  tom-toming,  after  which  the  virtues  of  the  departed  are  commemorated 
by  a  funeral  banquet  and  by  more  drum-beating,  continued  every  night  for  one  or 
more  weeks  afterwards  in  his  late  home. 

As  in  the  other  Atlantic  archipelagoes  the  system  of  large  estates  still  prevails, 
the  land  seldom  belonging  to  the  tiller  of  the  soil,  except  in  Brava.  Many 
domains  are  so  extensive  that  their  limits  are  unknown  to  the  owner,  and  vast 
tracts  lie  fallow  remote  from  all  human  habitations.  Other  properties  are  assigned 
to  owners  who  are  unable  to  produce  any  valid  title-deeds,  resting  their  claim  exclu- 
sively on  tradition.     Uue  third  of  Sam-Thiago,  largest  and  most  densely  peopled  of 


88 


WEST  AFHICA. 


the  whole  ai'cliipolaj»o,  belongs  to  a  single  proprietor,  whose  tenants  and  retainers 
number  some  three  thousand.  Many  estates,  however,  have  gradually  passed  by 
inheritance  from  the  first  European  concessionaries  to  their  half-caste  descendants  ; 
hence  the  land  to  a  large  extent  now  belongs  to  men  of  colour,  the  offspring  of  slaves 
in  the  female  line.  Although  the  final  measures  for  the  abolition  of  slavery  date  only 
from  1807,  the  last  slave  having  disappeared  in  1(S76,  complete  social  equality  is 
already  established  between  men  of  all  coU)urs.  A  certain  number  of  (/cf/radadun, 
or  convicts,  are  however  transported  to  all  the  islands  except  Saint  Vincent ;  in 
1878  they  numbered  altogether  over  a  hundred. 

Pi  Ksrrrs,  AGRicri.Tiut;,  Ixdi'stries,  Trade. 

])uring  the  early  period  of  the  occupation  the  archipelago  was  utilised  almost 
exclusively  for  stock-breeding.  The  cattle,  swine,  shoep,  and  especially  goats,  let 
loose  in  the  interior  increased  rapidly,  and  the  first  settlers  were  almost  solely 
occupied  in  grazing  their  herds,  or  capturing  the  animals  that  had  run  wild.  The 
horses,  introduced  from  the  Maudingo  country,  Senegambia,  also  prospered,  and 
since  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  began  to  be  re-exported  to  the  neigh- 
bouring continent.  Although  not  shod,  these  horses  climb  the  rocks  with  a  sure 
foot  like  goats.  The  asses,  originally  from  Portugal,  resemble  those  of  the  mother 
country,  and  are  almost  exclusively  used  as  pack  animals.  Many  that  had  lapsed 
into  the  wild  state  were  hunted  down  like  game  during  the  great  famine  of  18;51, 
and  those  that  were  not  taken  and  eaten  died  of  thirst,  so  that  the  race  was 
completely  exterminated.  The  s;i.me  fate  has  overtaken  the  destructive  rabbits 
which  had  been  imp ;)rted  into  Sam-Thiago. 

Notwithstanding  the  arid  apj  larance  of  Saint  Vincent  and  some  other  islands, 
much  of  the  land  has  been  brought  under  cultivation,  the  volcanic  soil  yielding- 
excellent  crops  of  all  sorts  whenever  the  rainfall  is  sufficiently  copious.  The  chief 
cultivated  plants  are  manioc,  maize,  haricot  beans,  and  especially  the  Jatrop/ia 
citrcafi,  a  medicinal  plant  of  such  powerful  purgative  properties  that  it  is  uo  longer 
used  in  the  European  pharmacopoeia.  Hut  the  seed  and  oil  are  still  largely 
exported  for  industrial  purposes. 

Industry,  properly  so  called,  is  little  developed  in  the  archipelago.  The  dyeing 
of  textile  fabrics  for  the  Negro  populations  of  the  continent  is  carried  on  especially 
in  Sam-Nicolau,  and  lirava  produces  some  lacewoik  and  highly  esteemed  woollen 
coverlets  Put  the  natives  have  a  more  natural  bent  for  trade ;  every  village  has 
its  shops,  and  a  brisk  interchange  of  commodities  is  kept  up  between  all  the 
islands.  Poa-Vista,  Sal,  Maio  export  salt,  building  stone,  and  goatskins,  Avhile 
Santo-Antam  supplies  the  neighbouring  Saint  Vincent  with  wood  and  water. 
International  trade  is  centred  almost  exclusively  in  Porto-Grande  and  Saint 
Vincent. 

Topography. — Saxto-Antam. 

Saiifo-Aiitain  (Saint  Anthony),  the  large  island  of  nearly  regular  quadrilateral 
shape  at  the  uorth-west  extremity  of  the  senjicircular  curve,  is  the  privileged 


',-»SSt'-;,ltm5Efr-'r'.«>,ls5S15SFBipi»a!gr«Kri»K«?clw^^ 


CAPE  VERD  ISLANDS. 


89 


laud  of  the  archipelago.  Traversed  by  u  lofty  range  in  the  direction  from  north- 
oast  to  south-west,  it  presents  its  north-west  slope  to  the  trade  winds,  whii'h  in 
these  waters  are  nearly  always  deflected  towards  the  continent.  1  Fence  tliis  slope 
receives  an  ample  rainfall,  which  supports  a  vigorous  vegetation  in  the  valleys. 
The  population,  which  iucriases  rapidly,  might  ho  doubled  or  trebled  without 
exhausting  the  agricultural  resources.  Hut  the  opposite  slope,  which  roveives  little 
moisture,  is  arid  and  almost  destitute  of  vegetation.     IIctp,  little  meets  the  eye 

Fig.  36. — Santo-Antam  and  Sam-Vicente. 

Scnlc  1  :  7.10,(100. 


0  to  (UiU 
Feet. 


Depths. 


660  to  3,300 
teet. 


3,MX)  Feel  and 
upwaiils. 


.  12  Miles. 


except  blackish  rocks,  red  clays,  and  white  pumice  scoring  the  hillsides  like 
streaks  of  snow.  Volcanic  cones  with  craters  are  dotted  all  over  the  ishind  as 
thickly  as  on  the  flanks  of  Mount  Etna.  Over  twenty  are  visible  to  .ships  rounding 
the  north-ea.st  capo  to  enter  the  port  of  Saint  Vincent.  The  main  range  terminates 
westwards  in  the  Topo  da  Coram,  the  culminating  point  of  the  island,  with  a 
crater  cm  its  summit,  according  to  the  marine  charts  7, •>;?()  feet  high.  Its  Hanks 
are  scored  right  and  left  by  deep  ravines,  and  on  the  west  side  it  fulls  abruptly 

70— AF 


H 


90 


WEST  AFEICA. 


down  to  the  sea.  But  eastwards  it  toM'ers  above  a  vast  plateau  which  has  a 
mean  altitude  of  6,400  feet,  and  which  is  covered  with  volcanic  cones,  some 
isolated,  some  disposed  in  groups  or  chains,  some  with  perfect  circular  or  oval 
"caldrons,"  others  rent  and  torn  on  one  side  and  presenting  the  so-called 
"spoon"  or  "ladle"  formation.  Doclter,  the  geologist,  regards  this  upland 
plain  as  an  old  bed  of  a  vast  crater,  where  the  Topo  da  Coram  represents  the 
Vesuvius  of  a  great  circular  Somma,  of  which  the  jagged  outlines  may  still  be 
traced. 

Santo-Antam  was  first  occupied  in  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  when 
slave  labour  was  introduced.      The  first  white  colonists,  including  a  number  of 


Fig.  37.— Pabt  of  the  Volcanic  Plateau  in  Santo-Antam. 
Scale  1 :  8S.000. 


85°  .7- 


West   of  Greenwich 


25"  14' 


.  3.300  Yards. 


Canarians,  made  their  appearance  towards  the  close  of  the  last  and  beginning  of 
the  present  century,  and  successfully  introduced  the  cultivation  of  wheat  on  the 
upland  slopes.  In  1780  the  slaves  in  Santo-Antam  were  declared  free  ;  but  the 
decree  passed  unheeded,  and  the  honour  of  their  emancipation  was  reserved  for 
a  later  generation.  The  inhabitants,  nearly  all  coloured,  but  sometimes  with  light 
hair  and  blue  eyes,  are  grouped  chiefly  in  some  villages  near  the  north-east  coast, 
and  in  the  little  town  of  lUheirn  Grande  on  the  same  coast.  On  the  neighbouring 
hills,  from  3,000  to  4,000  feet  high,  the  cultivation  of  cinchona  has  been  introduced 
with  great  success ;  nearly  a  thousand  trees  had  already  been  planted  in  1882. 


■^stsnw 


■JfK'^^lv'WS.S^FWfS^TOiWJi-  - 


'Jl^^^^^r 


-.  — ;;ji^*  *•  ^■!*^^^0^)||^^J^-<'^' 


CAPE  VERD  ISLANDS. 


91 


Saint  Vincent. 

Saint  Vincent  (Sam-Vicente)  is  a  geograpliical  doiK'ndence  of  Santo-Anfam, 
which,  being  larger  and  higher,  ahnost  compk-tely  deprives  it  (,f  the  moisture 
brought  by  the  north-east  trade  winds.  Hence  it  almost  everywhere  presents  a 
parched  and  arid  appearance,  the  whole  island  possessing  only  one  or  two  small 
springs  and  a  single  valley  capable  of  cultivation.  No  attempt  was  made  at  a 
settlement  till  1795,  when  some  Negro  slaves  and  white  convicts  were  introduced; 
but  even  in  1829  the  population  was  still  no  more  than  about  a  hundred.  Yet 
Saint  Vincent  was  known  to  possess  the  best  harbour  in  the  archipelago,  formed  by 
an  ancient  crater  eroded  on  the  west  side  by  the  waves,  and  con)pletely  sheltei'cd 
from  all  winds. 

The  future  commercial  importance  of  this  harbour  had  already  been  foreseen  in 
1851,  when  an  English  speculator  here  established  a  coaling  staticm  for  passing 
steamers.  The  small  town  of  Mindvllo,  better  known  under  the  names  of  Porto- 
Hraiide  and  Sdint  Vincent,  soon  sprang  up  on  the  east  side  of  the  haven.  Hut  it 
is  a  dreary  place  of  residence,  treeless  and  waterless,  the  inhabitants  being  obliged 
to  di'ink  distilled  sea-water,  or  water  brought  in  bcuits  from  Santo  Antani.  Never- 
theless, here  is  concentrated  nearly  all  the  trade  of  the  archipelago,  and  the  port  is 
yearly  visited  by  hundreds  of  Atlantic  steamers  to  renew  their  supply  of  coal.  In 
the  foreign  trade  of  the  arehij)elago  the  first  position  is  taken  by  the  English,  who 
import  all  the  coal.  Mindello  has  become  an  international  seaport,  in  which  the 
English  language  i)revails,  and  in  which  the  number  of  annual  visitors  is  twenty 
times  greater  than  the  local  population.  Saint  Vincent  is  also  the  intermediate 
station  for  the  Atlantic  cable  between  Lisbon  and  Pernambuco. 

S.VM-NlCOLAl'. 

East  of  Saint  Vincent  follow  Santn  Lucia,  occupied  only  by  shepherds,  the 
desert  islets  of  liranco  and  Razo,  and  a  little  farther  on  the  large  island  of  Sam- 
Nivolaa,  which  about  the  middle  of  the  last  ccnturj'  was  already  well  peopled. 
The  first  census  of  1774  showed  a  population  of  l;},500 — more  than  at  present; 
the  decrease  being  due  to  a  series  of  calamities,  famine,  yellow  fever,  cholera, 
following  one  on  the  other.  In  normal  times,  however,  the  birth-rate  greatly 
exceeds  the  mortality. 

Sam-Nicolau  presents  the,  form  of  an  irregular  crescent,  one  of  its  horns  pro- 
jecting eastwards,  the  other  towards  the  south.  Like  all  the  other  members  of  the 
Cape  Verd  group,  it  is  covered  with  volcanic  rocks,  disposed  either  in  isolated  cones 
or  continuous  ridges,  and  culminating  in  the  north  with  J^lount  Gordo,  4,000  feet 
high.  Here  is  the  central  point  of  the  whole  archipelago,  the  summit,  easily 
reached  even  on  horseback,  commanding  in  clear  weather  a  complete  view  of  all 
the  islands  from  Sam-Antara  to  Fogo.  From  the  south  side  of  Gordo  flows  a 
copious  stream,  which,  however,  like  several  other  rivulets,  disappears  in  the 
scoriao.     Owing  to  the  lack  of  communication,  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  utilise 


M 


m 


1  n 


92 


WEST  AFRIPA. 


1^ 


thc'O  supplies,  and  for  tho  saiiio  roason  few   local   cruft   visit  the  surrounding 
crooks,  most  of  which  are  ontirely  dosortod. 

Tho  first  capital  was  situated  on  the  port  of  fji/>ti,  at  tho  oxtreniity  of  the 
southern  headland;  but  during  the  temporary  annexation  of  Portugal  to  Spain 
under  IMiiiip  II.  this  place  was  abandoned  for  tho  present  town  of  h'ihrir/i-Iinini 
on  the  south-east  side.  Notwithstanding  tho  fevers  which  at  times  visit  this  part 
of  the  coast,  nearly  half  of  the  population  is  now  centred  in  Hibeira-Brava,  which 
has  become  one  of  the  chief  towns  in  tho  archipelago,  and  the  centre  of  the  most 
active  local  traffic.  It  exports  nuii/e,  manioc,  and  sugar,  but  coffee,  formerly  un 
important  industry,  has  ceased  to  he  grown.  Nearly  all  manufactured  gotxls  and 
foreign  produce  are  introduced  through  Saint  Vincent  from  England  and  the 
United  States.  Tn  IS07  Ribeira-Hrava  was  chosen,  thanks  to  its  central  position, 
as  the  seat  of  the  Lyceum,  the  first  educational  establishment  in  the  archipelago. 


SaI,,    Br)A-yiSTA,     AM)    MaIO. 

Sal  (Salt)  and  Boa-  Vista,  forming  the  eastern  group,  have  almost  a  Saharian 
climate,  and  are  consequently  but  thinly  peopled.  Although  nearly  120  square 
miles  in  extent,  Sal  remained  unoccupied  fro?n  the  time  of  its  discovery  till  1808, 
when  a  few  slaves  with  some  flocks  were  introduced  from  lioa-Vista.  Hut  no 
regular  settlement  was  made  till  IH'-iO,  when  the  excellence  and  abundance  of  the 
salt  beds  attracitcd  the  attention  of  speculators.  Cisterns  were  constructed  to 
husband  the  rain-water,  and  some  industrial  colonies  sprang  up  round  about  the 
salt-pans.  The  railway  laid  down  in  l8;{o  from  the  chief  saline  to  the  coast  was 
the  first  opened  in  any  part  of  the  Portuguese  dominions. 

Sain-Chrisfora»i,  since  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century  known  as  BiJa- Vista 
{"  Rellevue"),  scarcely  deserves  this  title.  Like  Sal,  it  lies  low,  is  nearly  treeless, 
has  no  running  waters,  is  encircled  by  a  dangerous  reef-bound  coast,  and  covered 
with  shifting  dunes  "  from  the  Sahara,"  as  the  natives  say.  Stock-breeding  and 
the  salt-works  are  almost  its  only  resources,  and  its  capital,  Sahri/,  although 
enjoying  the  advantage  of  a  well-sheltered  harbour,  is  little  visited.  Since 
American  vessels  have  ceased  to  call  here  for  salt  the  population  of  the  island  has 
declined. 

Maio,  consisting  mainly  of  sands,  clays,  and  bare  rocks,  is  little  more  than  a 
convict  station.  Its  few  Negro  inhabitants  work  the  salt-pans  on  the  beach,  and 
also  occupy  themselves  with  fishing  and  grazing.  But  they  would  run  the  risk  of 
being  starved  out  were  they  not  supplied  with  provisions  from  the  neighbouring 


Sam-Thiago. 


Sam-Thiaoo. 


Largest  and  most  populous  island  in  the  archipelago,  Sam-  TliiiKjo  (St.  James)  is 
also  specially  distinguished  by  the  fertility  and  high  state  of  cultivation  of  its  valleys, 
which  yield  good  crops  of  maize,  haricots,  rice,  bananas,  oranges,  and  sugar.  The 
surface  is  hilly,  culminating  near  the  centre  with  the  Pico  da  Antonia,  about  6,000 


.  m  5««ftW-F>»' WJtW^S'X^f'^SSSfia^S'SSSS-fJ'liSW 


CAI'I",  VHIU)  ISLANDS. 


08 


t'eot,  11  ruined  volcaiit),  wliii-h  I'allis  uljiuplly  Ndutliwanls.  Soiiii'  of  the  iTiiptivo 
rocks  arc  of  siilHuariuc  (tri;;iii,  and  tlic  .siirrouiidinj^  waters  arc  of  j^rcat  depth,  the 
soiindiii;;-liiu'  rcvcaliii^j;  ahysscs  of  l,!<J<iO  falhoius  within  4  niiU-.s  of  the  coast. 

Of  liih(iiit-(iriiii<li\  tlic  former  capital,  litth"  remains  except  its  name.  It  was 
l)adly  situated  on  a  small  pehhly  stream,  with  a  hot  southern  aspect,  cut  otV  from 
the  rcfrcshiiif^  nortliern  breezos  by  (he  inland  mountains.  But  alihough  captured 
and  nearly  ruined  by  the'  French  in  171",',  it  still  retained  tht>  oflfieial  title  of  capital 
till  the  year  1770,  when  it  was  replaced  l)y  Vllhi  ila  Pniia.  This  place  lies  on  a 
semicircular  bay  on  the  south-oust  coast  exposed  to  the  south  winds,  and  a  nieteoro- 
h)gical  observatory  has  here  boon  established.     There  is  a  small  natural   history 


YifT.  :iS.     Pn,viA. 

Scale  1 :  200,000. 


l/epilis 


M 


0  to  660 
feet. 


1)  to  3,300 
Feet. 


3.80O  to  (>.«iOO 
Feet. 


O.tiiiil  l-'i't't  and 

UpWUlxlB 


IS  Mills 


museum,  and  Praia  is  also  an  important  telegraphic  station,  forming  the  inter- 
mediate station  for  the  Atlantic  cables  between  Europe,  Senegumbia,  and  the 
New  World. 

FoGO    AND   Bu.WA, 

The  island  of  Fogo,  or  "  Fire,"  is  of  circular  form,  and,  like  Gran  Canaria  and 
Gomcra,  consists  of  a  single  eruptive  mass,  culminating  in  the  centre  with  the 
volcano  of  Fogo,  which,  according  to  Vidal  and  kludge  has  an  altitude  of  9,050 
feet.  The  crater,  about  'i  miles  in  circumference,  lies  within  another  crater,  and 
the  peak  is  visible  90  miles  seaward. 

This  i.sland,  formerly  known  as  Sum-Felippe,  did  not  receive  its  present  name 


I 


I 

•  *; 


'mi 


Oi 


WEST  AFRICA. 


till  1080,  when  the  Hottlcrs  wore  so  terrified  by  im  ourthquiike  followed  by  eruptions 
of  luvtt  that  iniiiiy  took  refiigo  in  thciK'iphbourinf?  island  of  Ilrava.  Other  violent 
i;j^neous  distxirlninces  ensued,  such  as  those  of  17H;>  and  I7!>!),  when  copious  lavu 
streams  overflowed  down  to  the  eoast  and  entirely  tilled  up  a  valley  eovenul  with 
rieh  phintations.  The  Nuioulderin}^  fires  continued  down  to  iHKi,  when  the  smoko 
disapp  -ared  and  the  natives  were  able  to  extract  the  sulphur  accumulated  in  the 
interior  of  the  crater.  Underground  convulsions  were  followed  by  lon}»  drouj^iits 
and  famines,  throuji^h  which  the  population  fell  from  over  Ui.OOO  to  less  than 
(!,000  in  ls:{4.  IJut  such  is  the  fertility  of  the  volcanic  soil  and  the  excellence  of 
its  produce,  that  the  disasters  are  soon  repaired  and  fresh  phintations  rajndly  sprin<^ 
up  above  the  old  cultivated  tracts.  At  present  Vw^o  is  the  most  popuh)US  island 
in  the  archipelap;o,  next  to  Sam-Thia<i;o  and  Santo-Antam,  and  the  white  elenu-nt. 
mostly  from  Madeira,  is  relatively  very  numerous.  Sfim-Fc/ijipe,  the  cajntal,  lies 
on  an  open  roadstead  on  the  west  coast,  over  aj^ainst  Hrava. 

linira,  or  the  "  Wild,"  has  long  ceased  to  deserve  this  appellation,  lieinj^  the 
liealtliiesi,  best-cultivated,  and  i)leasantest  member  of  the  whole  group,  it  is  oflen 
now  spoken  of  as  the  "  paradise  of  the  Cape  Verd  archipelago,"  in  contrast  to  the 
four  "hells"  of  Saint  Vincent,  Sal,  Hoa- Vista  and  Maio.  Hut  for  two  centuries 
after  the  occupation  its  only  inhabitants  were  some  runaway  slaves  from  the  other 
islands,  supporting  themselves  by  fishing  and  grazing.  The  population  was 
suddeidy  increased  by  the  disaster  of  Fogo  in  I'ISO,  and  as  the  land  was  then 
distributed  in  small  independent  holdings,  Hrava  became  the  garden  of  the 
iireliipi'lago. 

Tlie  natives  are  a  cross-breed,  distinguished  from  those  of  Fogo  by  their  taller 
stature,  fairer  complexion,  and  features  that  have  been  compared  to  those  of  a 
goat.  They  are  industrious  tillers  of  the  soil,  good  fishers  and  daring  mariners. 
The  Americans,  whose  chief  fishing  station  is  in  Brava,  employ  many  on  board 
their  whalers. 

Fiinid,  the  small  but  well-sheltered  port  of  the  island,  lies  on  the  east  side, 
opposite  Sam-Felippe  in  Fogo.  ()n  the  west  coast  lies  the  chief  town,  Saiii- 
Joam  B(i/tfMa,  whither  the  officials  of  the  other  islands  often  retire  to  recruit 
their  health. 

The  two  islets  of  I/hcos  Scccos,  north  of  Brava,  are  uninhabited. 


Administration. 

The  Cape  Verd  archipelago  is  divided  into  two  administrative  districts  :  the 
Windward  and  Leeward  Islands,  comprising  altogether  eleven  couceJhos  and 
twenty-nine  frerjitezias,  that  is,  "  parishes  "  or  communes.  The  concelho  is  repre- 
sented by  an  elective  municipal  body,  the  administrador,  or  mayor,  being  nominated 
by  the  government.  A  provincial  council,  to  which  the  municipalities  send  two 
members,  co-operates  with  the  governor-general  of  the  province,  who  is  also 
assisted  by  a  chamber  of  finance  and  a  government  council  consisting  of  the  chief 
administrative   functionaries.     The   governor-general,  nominated   by   the   Crown, 


f.rfl;*3S^a'.'f>'J-S¥ 


m!mmisi»mi*rm%^/fs>'-^fj'»m-vi-'i.Qimwii'f^^ 


CAPE  VERD  ISLANDS. 


9S 


fombiiios  ill  his  own  person  the  civil  und  nulilury  functions,  and  wlion  absent  is 
represented  by  u  seeretary-Konerul,  Eueh  eoncelho  bus  its  ordinary  tribunal,  two 
courts  of  appeal  being  also  established  in  Santo-Antani  and  Sani-Thiaji;o. 

Althouf^h  forniinfi;  a  remote  colonial  possession,  the  archipelafj^o  is  represented 
in  the  Lisbon  Cortes  by  two  deputies,  elected  by  a  limited  suH'rago  in  the  two 
provincial  districts. 

For  a  table  of  the  islands,  with  their  areas,  populations,  and  chief  towns,  see 
the  Statistical  Appendix. 


i^^mm»m^'' 


jyi' 


f 


CTIAPTKR  III. 

SOUTH-WEST  AIUIL'AN  ISLANDS. 

NSULAlt  gniiips  uir  rare  in  the  Guinou  waters,  altlioujjh  until 
reci'iitly  tlie  inuiine  eliarta  were  liberally  (lotted  over  with  phantom 
lands,  wliich  .seafarers  had  observed  on  the  hori/on  and  mistaken 
for  ishiiids  or  reefs.  Tt  was  even  supposed  that  eontinental  coust- 
Hiies  formed  a  .southern  fringe  to  tho  oc(>aii  furrowed  by  vessels 
sailiii}^  from  l'ortu<i:al  towards  India.  Ptolemy's  hypothe.sis  of  a  "  jrreat  Austral 
land,"  conneeting  Soutli  Afriea  with  an  eastern  extension  of  Asia,  had  been 
revived  by  the  cartographers  of  tho  si.xteeiitli  century,  and  modified  in  aceordanco 
with  more  ri'cent  discoveries.  This  Austral  region  was  traced  by  them  from  South 
America  along  the  southern  limits  of  the  oceans  round  the  whole  periphery  of  the 
glolu'.  Then,  with  the  progress  of  southern  exploration,  this  coastline  becanu> 
broken  into  fragments,  and  on  Ilonumn's  chart,  published  in  17"J'2,  a  "  Land  of 
Life,"  fringed  by  a  whole  archipelago  of  islets,  forms  the  southern  boundary  of 
the  South  Atlantic,  under  the  latitudes  wliere  navigators  had  discovered  the  ishind 
of  (Jon^alo  Alvarez.  Fresh  surveys  thrust  farther  .south  these  real  or  imaginary 
shores,  which  hiive  now  become  the  seaboard  of  the  "Antarctic  "  Continent,  and 
when  Houvet  in  17'5!>  discovered  the  island  and  group  of  islets  now  bearing  his 
name,  he  called  them  "  (^ape  Circumcision,"  supposing  these  snowy  rocks  ro  be  a 
headland  of  the  polar  continent.  liut  this  region,  lying  between  o4°  and  oo" 
south  latitude,  is  already  far  removed  from  the  Afric;>.n  waters,  being  washed  by 
the  southern  seas,  wliich  with  their  masses  of  floating  ice  form,  so  to  say,  u 
continuation  of  the  southern  glacial  /one. 

With  the  "  Land  of  Life  "  have  also  disappeared  several  islands,  the  existence 
of  which  seemed  firmly  established  by  the  circumstantial  statements  of  navigators. 
Thus  modern  explorers  have  vainly  sought  for  the  i.sland  of  Saint  Matthew,  which 
long  figured  on  the  old  maps  about  the  latitude  of  2"  UO'  south  of  the  ecjuator. 
Yet  the  commander  of  a  s(puidron  of  .seven  vessels  had  lamled  and  renunned 
fourteen  days  on  this  island  in  l-VJo.  The  description  which  he  gives  of  it  corres- 
ponds exactly  with  that  of  Annobon,  wliich  was  probably  the  land  visited  by  him, 
although  he  was  out  of  his  reckoning  by  some  (iOO  miles,  no  unusual  error  in  the 
history  of  navigation  ut  that  time.      Another  island,  Santa-Croce,  or  Santa-Cruz, 


,<W;,-=;af^l. 


^■^■.:^:vy'^^'.^;r.-:i"*Ai4M»'^:S^',^^^^ 


SaST^VIE: 


TIUSTAM  J)A  ("UNIIA. 


07 


ulso  ti;,'unMl  (Hi  the  charts  iilioiif  tin  dt'i^'ivoa  to  tho  wt'st  of  Saint  Matthew,  althou^fh 
no  nrord  existed  of  its  discovory.  This  nunio  may  have  poswiljly  {rone  adrift  on 
the  hifjfh  seas  thionj^h  confusion  with  tlie  land  of  .Santa-<'ni/,  thi'  tirsi  l?ortu;4:urso 
apiH'llation  of  the  Brazilian  coast. 


GosrAi.t)  Ai.vAiiK/,  (III  (jorcat. 

In  the  Af.^tral  Atliu.Uc,  tho  remotest  ishind  that  may  still  he  re<>arded  ns 
helongiiij/  to  the  African  waters,  is  Goncalo  Alvarez,  so  named  froni  the  pilot  who 
discovered  i(  curly  in  th(!  sixteenth  century.  This  name,  in  its  contracted  form 
written  I  de  (f  J //v//v«,  hecanie  transformed  to  Divfjo  Alvinrz  ;  and  when  Gouf^h 
rediscovered  it  in  171:5,  it  became  also  known  by  his  name.  It  is  u  fraf,'f?y  mass 
4,;JoO  feet  high,  und  about  IH  mile>  round,  itn  the  north  and  east  fringed  by  three 
rocky  islets,  one  of  which  takes  the  name  of  Church  Hock,  from  its  resend)hince  to 
a  h>fty  nav(>  flanked  by  its  tower.  A  few  slieltired  creeks  alVord  a  landing  on  the 
large  island,  where  settlers  might  be  attracted  by  some  fertile  valleys,  slopes 
densely  clothed  with  brushwood,  and  waters  well  stocked  with  fish.  Ikit  the  island 
has  only  temporarily  been  visited  by  some  American  seul-tishers,  who  have 
reclaimed  no  land,  living  during  their  sojourn  on  tish  and  on  birds  which  they 
attracted  at  night  by  large  fires  kindled  on  the  headlands. 


hm 


TrISTAM    da   ClNHA. 

About  '2-40  miles  to  tho  north-wc^t  of  Gough  lies  another  rocky  group  on  the 
highway  between  the  Cape  and  tho  I.a  Plata  estuary,  about  1,800  miles  from  the 
former  and  2,400  from  the  latter.  This  is  the  Tristam  da  Cunha  archipelago,  so 
named  from  a  navigator,  "  whose  name,"  sings  Camoens,  "  shall  never  extinguished 
be  in  the  Austral  isles  washed  by  tho  Austral  sea."  Since  its  di.scovery  in  LiOG 
the  group  has  been  frequently  visited  by  navigators,  for  it  lies  south  of  the  zone  of 
regular  south-east  winds,  wliero  vessels  full  in  with  the  strong  western  breezes, 
which  enable  them  more  easily  to  double  tho  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The  largo 
island  is  dominated  by  a  regular  snow-clad  cone,  rising  to  a  height  of  fiom  8,000 
to  8,r)00  feet,  and  visible  at  a  distance  of  over  90  miles.  InncceHxihlv,  lying  about 
20  miles  to  the  south-west  of  Tristam,  takes  its  luime  from  the  steep  clitt's,  which 
can  be  approached  only  through  .some  narrow  ravines,  und  which  form  tho 
pedestal  of  a  rugged  plateau  often  veiled  by  the  clouds.  Ni(j/ifin,/((/r,  12  miles 
south-east  of  Inaccessible,  is  little  more  than  a  twin-peaked  rock  encircled  by  islets 
and  reefs.  These  volcanic  islands  have  altogether  an  area  of  over  20,000  acres, 
the  principal  island  comprising  over  three-quarters  of  the  whole  extent.  They 
are  composed  entirely  of  lavas,  either  compact  or  broken  into  innumerable  frag- 
ments, or  else  reduced  to  a  rich  blackish  mould.  The  highest  peak  in  Tristam, 
which  has  been  several  times  ascended,  terminates,  like  the  volcanic  cones  in  the 
other  islands,  in  a  crater  now  flooded  by  a  blue  lake.  Towards  tho  north-west  the 
lava-streams  have  acquired  the  appearance  of  a  vast  moraine  descending  down  to 


98 


WEST  AFRICA. 


If 


the  sea,  and  fringed  by  a  sort  of  natural  wall  of  blocks  for  a  distance  of  some  miles. 
Those  may  possibly  be  traces  of  an  old  glacial  epoch. 

At  present  snow  remains  only  on  tho  higher  grounds,  very  little  ever  falling 
as  low  as  sea-level.  The  climate  is  very  mild,  but  also  very  damp,  the  narrow 
upliuid  valleys  being  traversed  by  torrents,  which  in  many  places  develop  copious 


Ml 


Slip, 


1j* 


Fi/if.    39.— TuiSTAM   DA   CUNIIA. 
Scale  1  :  200,000. 


I8'50 


ie-.5- 


W«st  of  Greenvvich 


0  to  fi60 
Feet. 


Depths. 


660  to  3,300 
Feet. 


3,300  Feet  (ind 
upwards. 


3  Miles. 


cnscades.  According  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Taylor  the  thermometer  varies  from  about 
08°  F.  in  summer  to  58'^  or  60"  F.  in  winter,  and  even  at  night  it  rarely  falls  to 
more  than  eight  degrees  below  freezing  point.  The  prevailing  winds  blow  from 
the  west  and  north-west  ;  but  during  tho  antarctic  wiiit(>r,  and  especiallv  in 
August  and  September,  they  are  often  replaced  by  tierce  southern  gales,  lashing 


;j,/>^:s^'ST:ni::' 


2^ism:i^s^^'ssmmsism^^m^:!y^T:T:m^:.  -t-^?— sj^; 


i37l 


137- 
10 


iHK  M 


3\}K 


M     ,   f 


r 

si 

i 


m 


■:*i 


il 


.i" 


r.7rmrz^^^s~STwiSS«S) — rrr*nTT^ 


WMiiUS!'^^*^:-- 


TRISTAM  DA  CUNUA. 


99 


the  sea  into  huge  billows     llcuvy  rollers  also  break  oq  tho  rocky  shores  even  in 
calm  weather. 

Fl,()BA   AND   FaI  XA. 

The  large  island  is  encircled  by  a  broad  belt  of  gigantic  seaweed  {Macroci/stis 
pjjfifem),  fortiiing  a  veritable  forest  of  alg;c  over  a  third  of  a  mile  wide,  in  which 
plants  from  180  to  200  feet  long  are  very  common.  These  fucus,  which  take  root 
at  an  average  depth  of  90  feet,  facilitate  landing  on  the  island  by  deadening  tho 
fury  of  tho  waves. 

Tristain  da  ('unha  constitutes  an  indeptMident  oceanic  group,  wliich  probably 
at  no  time  formed  part  of  the  mainland.  Hence  it  possesses  a  .special  Hora,  wiih 
forms  which  are  again  fouml  in  the  islets  of  Saint  Paul  and  Am.sterdam  in  the 
Indian  Ocean,  nearly  100  degrees  of  longitude  farther  east.  These  curious 
plants,  thus  covering  such  a  vast  range  and  developed  under  the  influence  of  an 
analogous  climate,  comprise  some  heaths  and  a  prickly  gra.ss  {Spfirtiini  aruiiiliiwcvc) 
growing  in  large  tufts  on  all  the  h)wer  slopes,  in  nuiny  places  so  interlaced  as  to 
be  (juite  impenetrable.  The  only  tn-e  in  this  insular  flora  is  the  Pln)li(ii  (trhunu, 
which  in  some  places  attains  a  height  of  'JO  feet  and  upwards,  but  which  usually 
bends  its  distorted  stem  down  to  the  ground.  It  forms,  with  the  drift-wood  on  the 
oust  coast,  the  only  available  fuel  of  the  inhabitants.  The  plants  of  the  European 
and  American  temperate  zones  thrive  well  in  the  sheltered  dells — cabbage,  beet- 
root, tui-nips,  onions,  yiehling  rich  crops  sufficient  fen'  rhe  local  wants  and  for  the 
supply  of  ])assing  vessels  The  pears,  i)eaches,  and  grapi-s  arc  also  excellent  ;  but 
the  cultivation  of  maize  and  wheat  has  had  to  be  abandoned  owing  to  the  ravages 
of  the  mice. 

No  reptiles  have  been  discovered  on  the  islands,  nor  apparently  any  insects, 
the  only  indigenous  animals  being  mews,  penguins,  the  stormy  i)ctrel,  albatros, 
and  some  other  aquatic  birds.  The  pigs  now  running  wild  are  certainly  of 
European  origin,  although  introduced  at  an  unknown  date.  The  goats,  however, 
which  were  also  at  one  time  nunu>rous,  have  disappeared  for  some  unexplained 
reason.  The  domestic  cat  has  given  rise  to  a  wild  breed,  which  at  times  contends 
successfully  with  the  dog,  and  which  ctmimits  great  havoc  in  the  poultry-yard. 
The  chief  resources  of  the  people  arc  their  cattle,  sheep,  hogs,  rabbits,  and  game. 
Some  of  the  cattle  are  exported  to  Saint  Helena,  and  some  domestic  animals  lei 
loose  in  Inaccessible  have  also  greatly  multiplied. 


¥  n 


iNIIAmTAXTS. 

Tristam  da  Cunha  has  boon  inhabited  since  1811,  when  the  American  sailor 
Jonathan  Lambert  settled  here  with  two  companions,  and  began  to  clear  the 
ground.  In  181G,  the  liritish  Government  fearing  a  secret  expedition  might  here 
be  organised  to  deliv(>r  the  prisoner  of  Saint  Helena,  placed  a  small  garrison  in 
the  island.     In  18'-il  the  men,  being  no  longer  needed,  were  withdrawn  ;  but  a  few 


■I* — "<?' '  ■' 


100 


WEST  AFMCA. 


fioldiors  olitainod  loiivi'  to  remain,  and  niuco  then  (he  colony  has  boon  niuintaiiiod, 
at  times  incii-used  by  a  few  shipwrecked  saih)rs,  at  limes  diminished  by  emigration 
of  young  men,  or  of  whoh'  families,  eager  to  escape  from  their  narrow  ocean  home. 
In  1S()."),  duriiig  the  war  of  Secession,  an  American  corsair  landed  forty  prisoners 
on  till'  island  without  providing  for  their  support.  On  other  occasions  the  (irews 
of  passing  ships  have  forcibly  obtained  supplies  from  the  little  colony  of  settlers, 
who  have  nobly  avenged  themselves  by  hastening  to  the  succour  of  vessels  often 
stranded  on  their  rocky  shores. 

If  left  to  itself,  this  little  insular  community  might  perhaps  be  able  to  subsist 
and  develop,  thanks  to  the  uniform  excellence  of  the  climate.  The  families  are 
said  never  to  lose  their  children  young,  so  that  the  natural  increase  by  the  excess 
of  births  over  deaths  is  consideiable.  The  natives,  issue  of  Europeans,  Americans, 
and  Hollanders  from  the  Cape,  married  to  half-caste  women  from  Saint  Helena 
and  South  Africa,  are  a  fine  race,  remarkable  for  the  grace  and  harmony  of  their 
proportions.  In  188G  they  numbered  a  hundred  and  twelve  souls ;  but  fifteen 
adults,  or  one-fourth  of  all  the  able-bodied  members  of  the  community,  were  soon 
after  swept  away  by  a  terrible  storm. 

English  is  the  language  of  these  islanders,  who  constitute  a  small  republic, 
whose  "  president  "  is  the  patriarch  encircled  by  the  lar'^est  familj'  group.  They 
recognise  the  sovereignty  of  Great  Britain,  which  occasionally  affords  some  help 
to  the  vassal  colony. 


Saint  Hei.kxa. 

Although  situated  fully  within  the  tropics,  between  15°  and  1(3"  south  latitude, 
and  1,40(>  miles  nearer  to  the  equator  than  Tristam  da  Cunha,  St.  Ht^lena  was 
discovered  oidy  four  years  earlier,  that  is,  in  1002,  by  the  Galician  Juan  de  Nova, 
who  here  lost  one  of  his  vessels.  The  island  majs  however,  have  been  sighted  by 
some  previous  navigators,  for  some  lands  are  figured  in  these  waters  on  Juan  de  la 
Cosa's  map,  which  was  completed  in  1000. 

Ijying  within  the  zone  of  the  regular  south-east  trade  winds,  St.  Helena 
occupies  a  very  favourable  position  on  the  highway  of  shij)s  homeward  bound  from 
the  Indian  Ocean.  But  the  nearest  continental  land  is  the  Portuguese  province  of 
Mossamedes,  South-West  Africa,  distant  1,140  miles  due  west. 

Although  still  nearly  double  the  size  of  Tristam  da  Cunha,  with  a  total  area  of 
about  JJO.OOO  acres,  St.  Helena  is  little  more  than  the  nucleus  of  what  it  must  once 
have  been.  The  present  cliffs,  in  many  places  rising  2,000  feet  sheer  above  the 
water,  are  encircled  by  a  sort  of  bank  or  terrace  with  a  mean  breadth  of  two  or  three 
miles  and  flooded  to  a  depth  of  from  300  to  fiOO  feet  and  upwards.  This  sub- 
merged land,  which  rises  abruptly  from  the  marine  abysses,  forms  the  pedestal  of 
the  old  volcanic  mass,  of  which  a  mere  fragment  now  survives.  And  when  it 
covered  a  wider  extent,  the  island  also  rose  vertically  to  a  greater  height.  But 
while  the  waves  were  incessantly  attacking  its  foundations,  its  uplands  were 
exposed  to  the  ravages  of  rains  and  running  waters.    This  twofold  work  of  erosion, 


rniA^ms^m?iSf'kmmi€Wf^m^smeiSmmw^sm9^Mmms^sm^gmm^m:-: 


SAINT  HELENA. 


101 


contiimocl  for  unTuimborcd  ages,  must  ncvertholoss  have  been  an  extromely 
jslow  proocps,  owing  to  the  intense  hardnoss  of  those  lava  formations.  After 
a  manj'  years'  careful  study  of  the  work  of  disintegration  on  the  rock- 
bound  coast,  M.  iEelliss  estimated  at  over  44,000  years  the  time  occupied  in 
the  destruction  of  certain  headlands,  of  which  nothing  is  now  visible  e.vcept  ii 
few  reefs. 

All  the  St.  Helena  rocks — basalts,  pozzolanas,  pumice,  vitrified  or  t)ther 
materials — are  of  igneous  origin.  No  other  formations,  sedimenrary  or  crystalline, 
have  been  discovered,  which  might  justify  the  theory  sometimes  put  forward  that 
the  island  was  formerly  connected  with  a  continental  mass.  In  some  places, 
notably  in  Gregory's  V^alley,  the  basalt  rocks  arc  traver.sed  by  other  and  much 
harder  basalts,  ejected  from  below  during  some  local  underground  disturbance. 
While  the  rest  of  the  rock  is  eaten  away  to  a  great  depth,  these  dykes,  which 
intersect  each  other  in  various  directions,  stand  out  like  the  walls  of  a  vast  edifice 
now  in  ruins.  The  delusion  is  heightened  by  the  interstices  of  the  columns, 
resembling  those  of  masonry. 

The  study  of  the  relief  of  the  land  has  shown  that  the  centre  of  eruption  lay 
on  the  south  coast  at  the  point  now  known  as  Sandy  Bay.  Here  is  still  visible 
the  crater,  forming  a  regular  semicircle  washed  bj'  the  surf  from  the  high  seas. 
IJut  around  this  central  nucleus  is  developed  another  semicircular  crater,  a  magnifi- 
cent amphitheatre,  whose  main  axis  is  indicated  by  the  culminating  peaks  of  the 
island.  Some  of  the  prominences  on  this  outer  circuit  resemble  gigantic  pillars. 
Such  are  "  Lot  and  his  wife,"  which  rise  to  the  respective  heights  of  JJOO  and  iJOO 
feet  on  the  southern  part  of  the  volcanic  enclosure.  A  huge  detached  boulder  of 
clink-stone  rests  on  end,  like  those  "  Stonehenges  "  which  have  become  famous  in 
the  mythcdogy  of  the  European  peoples.  The  higher  crater  has  a  diameter  of  no 
less  than  four  miles,  presenting  in  many  places  the  aspect  of  chaos  and  gloom,  as 
attested  by  such  names  as  "  Hell-Gate,"  and  "  Devil's  Garden."  Nevertheless, 
the  finest  cultivated  tracts  and  most  luxuriant  orchards  are  found  on  the  inner 
slopes  of  this  crater.  A  winding  carriage- road  leads  from  the  higher  crests  down 
to  the  bottom  of  the  cha!>m. 

Weathered  by  tiuie  and  deprived  of  its  eruptive  cones,  the  north  side  of 
St.  Helena  no  longer  jjresents  the  majestic  appearance  of  other  volcanic  islands. 
Its  aspect  is  rather  that  of  a  confused  mass  of  black  and  reddish  rocks  encircled 
by  jagged  cliffs  and  escarpments,  but  offering  a  somewhat  monotonous  profile  above 
the  gorges  on  the  coast.  Toward  the  east,  however,  a  terminal  headland  stands 
out  boldly,  detached  by  a  deep  fissure  from  the  main  insular  mass.  Several 
eminences  exceed  2,000  feet,  the  highest  being  the  Peak  of  Diana  (2,700  feet), 
which  commands  a  panoramic  view  of  the  whole  island,  with  its  crests  and  valleys, 
its  sharp  peaks  and  deep  raviues.  At  the  time  of  its  discovery,  St.  Helena  was 
clad  with  dense  forests  down  to  the  water's  edge.  IJut  most  of  these  have  since 
disappeared,  and  five-sixths  of  the  surface  have  been  deprived  of  all  vegetation. 
Hence  nearly  all  the  plants  now  occurring  are  exotics,  introduced  from  Europe, 
Africa,  America,  and  even  Australia. 


til  '^i 


Hi 


102 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Climate. 

The  {growth  of  tlio  foreign  vcgetntion  lias  been  promoted  by  the  mildness  of 
the  climate,  Althoujjh  lying  in  the  torrid  zone,  St.  lli'lenu  has  no  Hiimmcr  heats 
greatiT  than  those  of  England,  the  normal  temperature  being  constantly  lowered 
by  the  south-east  breezes  and  cool  waters  of  the  Antarctic  current,  while  the  lower 
valleye  urc  sheltered  from  the  solur  rays  by  the  clouds  settling  on  the  cucircliug 

Fig.  40.— St.  Helena.. 
Scale  I  :  186,100. 


0  to  160 
Feet. 


Depths 


iaoto640 
Feet. 


640  Feet  i.nd 
upwards. 


3  MUes. 


hills.  Throughout  the  year  the  days  when  the  sky  is  overcast  are  twice  as 
numerous  as  the  cloudh'ss  days,  and  the  mean  difference  between  the  winter  colds 
and  summer  heats  seurcely  exceeds  MO"^  F.,  the  glass  generally  ranging  from 
53*^  F.  to  B.'J"  F.  For  a  hundred  and  forty  days  the  arv:„;il  rainfall  reaches 
27  inches  iu  Jamestown,  where  the  atmosphere  is  relatively  dry  ;  but  at  Longwood, 
in  the  hills,  it  exceeds  48  inches.  Heavy  downpours  occur  chiefly  in  March  and 
April,   that  is,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Austral  winter;  but  thunderstorms  aro 


^^^■■■s^m^m^sim^mmmms: 


SAINT  HELENA. 


108 


cxtreraoly  rare,  so  that  lightiuiig-conductors  are  not  even  placed  over  powder- 
inaguzines.  The  heavy  ground-swells  break  upon  the  north-west  eoast  ehiefly 
during  the  tine  and  calm  months  of  January  and  February,  as  if  nature  were 
hushed  to  contemplate  this  tremendous  crash  of  the  ocean  billows. 


Fl,OKA. 

Thanks  to  its  remoteness  from  all  continental  land,  St.  Helena  had  formerly  a 
perfectly  distinct  flora.  IJut  several  indigenous  species,  including  the  ebony, 
have  disappeared,  either  uprooted  by  man,  or  destroyed  by  the  goats  and  swine,  or 
else  choked  by  the  intruding  exotics.  During  the  present  century  many  have 
perished  in  this  way,  while  others  are  found  only  in  the  gardens,  from  which  they 
also  threaten  to  disiippear.  Of  seven  hundred  and  forty-six  flowering  plants,  now 
increased  by  three  hundred  fresh  arrivals,  Darwin  reckoned  only  fifty-two  native 
sjjccies,  including  a  flne  tree-fern  and  sonie  heaths.  ]{ut  ^lelliss  raised  the  number 
to  seventy-seven,  "  representatives  of  an  old  world,"  which  have  now  nearly  all  taken 
refuge  on  Diana  Peak  and  the  surrounding  crests. 

The  European  onk,  fir,  and  cypress  .succeed  well,  and  amongst  the  industrial 
and  alimentary  plants  are  seen  immigrants  both  from  the  torrid  and  temperate 
/.ones.  Tlie  cultivati(m  of  cinchona  has  been  abandoned,  but  the  coffee  and  tea 
plants,  sugar-cane,  cotton,  indigo,  guava,  banana,  flourish  in  the  same  gurden 
with  the  apple,  pear,  and  vine,  while  the  potato  grows  by  the  side  of  the  yam  and 
batata.  Unfortunately  the  weeds  of  various  countries  have  also  invaded  the  i.sland, 
and  would  have  soon  overrun  the  cullivated  tracts  but  for  the  precautionary 
measures  that  had  to  be  taken  in  the  interest  of  the  general  good. 


Ji 


Faina. 

The  indigenous  fauna  also  differed  from  those  of  the  two  nearest  continents, 
even  comprising  a  hind-bird  {CIianidriiiH  prcufirius)  unknown  in  all  the  other 
Atlantic  islands.  St.  Helena  is  also  one  of  the  resting  stations  for  the  great  sea- 
birds,  such  as  the  sea-eagle  and  the  frigate,  "  which  is  all  wing  and  which  sleeps 
on  the  storm."  The  wild  goats,  very  numerous  during  the  early  days  of  the  colonisa- 
tion, have  nearly  been  exterminated,  so  that  the  wild  fauna  is  now  reduced  to  the 
rat  and  rabbit,  both  very  troublesome  to  the  husbandman.  The  only  reptiles  are 
the  centijjede  and  scorjiion,  introduced  probably  through  carelessness.  Of  ninety- 
six  siwcies  of  butterflies  one  half  are  indigenous,  the  others  being  common  also  to 
Africa  and  the  Atlantic  islands  as  far  as  the  Azores.  Eleven  species  of  indigenous 
land  molluscs  still  survive,  all  resembling  without  being  identical  with  correspond- 
ing species  in  the  Seychelles  and  Oceania.  Many  others  occur  on  the  uplands  in 
a  semi-fossil  state,  having  perished  only  since  the  destruction  of  the  forests. 

The  horse,  ox,  sheep,  goat,  pheasant,  guineo-fowl,  poultry,  and  other  birds  were 
introduced  by  the  first  Portuguese  and  Dutch  settlers,  and  to  these  the  English 
have  added  numerous  other  varieties,  including  the  sparrows  so  destructive  to 
cereals.     Another  pest  is  the  termite,  which  was  accidentally  imported  from  Brazil 


IS* »'.« 
hvj 


104 


WEST  AFllICA. 


about  1H40,  and  which,  five  yoars  afterwards,  had  half  ruined  Jamestown.  Tt  cost 
i;()(),000  f(i  n'])air  the  daniapfe  done  by  these  rh'structive  insects.  The  surroundin<^ 
waters  abound  in  tunny  and  other  fishes. 


ii  : 


r  ' 
I!  ! 


|i  I 


ii  -I  • 


Inhaiutants. 

St.  Ileh'na  was  occupied  soon  after  its  discovery,  and  in  l-*)l:5  stiino  Portuj^uoso 
suhliers,  niutihited  by  Albuquerque  ft)r  the  crime  of  di'seition,  were  left  here  with 
a  few  slaves,  domestic  animals,  and  supplies.  After  this  the  island  was  a<?ain 
completely  abandoned  till  10">1,  when  the  l*ortun;uese  were  succeeded  by  the  Dutch, 
and  these  again  by  the  Knglish,  amongst  whom  were  several  families  ruined  by 
the  great  fire  of  London  in  l(i(i().  Some  Negroes  and  other  African  slaves  were 
also  introduced,  and  Chinese  and  Malay  coolies  for  the  first  tinuMU  1810.  Formed 
of  so  many  different  elements,  the  race  is  far  from  possessing  the  florid  English 
comi)lexion,  but  is  nevertheless  distinguished  by  a  general  grace  and  beauty  of 
features.  On  Christmas  Day,  1H18,  fifteen  years  before  the  abolition  of  slavery  in 
the  other  British  colonies,  the  future  offspring  of  shives  were  declared  free,  and  in 
1822  the  six  hundred  and  fourteen  still  remaining  slaves  were  emancipated. 

The  name  of  this  little  Atlantic  ro('k  has  become  famous  in  the  history  of 
France  and  the  world.  Here  Napoleon,  prisoner  of  England,  passed  in  exile  the 
last  six  years  of  his  life,  and  during  this  period  of  calm,  after  so  many  wars  and 
political  convulsions,  all  eyes  were  steadily  fixed  "on  this  reef  beaten  by  the 
melancholy  ocean,"  this  hitherto  unknown  block  of  luva,  where  the  great  captain 
was  dying  a  lingering  death.  In  the  history  of  science  St.  Helena  also  recalls 
great  memories.  Mount  Halley,  which  rises  towards  the  centre  of  the  island  to  a 
height  of  2,410  feet,  is  the  peak  on  which  in  Uuli  the  famous  English  a.stronomer 
of  this  name  set  up  his  observatory  to  prepare  a  catalogue  of  the  southern  constel- 
lations and  observe  the  transit  of  Mercury  across  the  sun.  Another  summit  was 
chosen  by  Sabine  in  1840  for  a  magnetic  observatory.  Lastly,  Darwin  and  some 
other  naturalists  have  made  studies  of  supreme  importance  in  St.  Helena  on 
physical  geography  and  the  distribution  of  vegetable  species. 


Trade,  Re.sources,  Decadence. 

But  this  famous  island  no  longer  possesses  much  economic  value  in  the  markets 
of  the  world.  F'orraerly,  when  voyages  round  the  gh)be  or  the  continents  were 
rare  events,  St  Helena  was  an  important  station,  wherc^  vessels  called  for  supplies, 
and  for  a  long  time  it  served  as  an  international  post-office  for  seafarers  in  the 
Atlantic.  The  block  of  lava  is  still  preserved  under  which  were  placed  the  letters 
and  packages  of  passing  vessels.  But  the  substitution  of  steamers  for  .sailing 
vessels  has  brought  about  great  changes,  while  the  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal  has 
diverted  most  of  the  traffic  from  the  Austral  seas.  St.  Helena  has  thus  lost  nearly 
all  its  importance  as  a  port  of  call  for  orders  or  supplies.  It  no  longer  exports 
anything  except  the  produce  of  the  American  whalers,  and  the  inhabitants, 
accustomed  largely  to  depend  on  the  visits  of  strangers  and  the  bounty  of  the 


L 


mm^mmwmm?mm'^m^mm^^m^ 


pi 


I.     Tt  cost 
rroundinjr 


bituffuosc 
licii'  with 
rtas  a<jain 
he  Dutch, 
iiiinc(l  by 
avcs  were 
Konuod 
1  Kiifjlish 
beauty  of 
sluvery  in 
I'e,  and  in 
cd. 

listory  of 
I  exile  the 
wars  and 
n  by  the 
it  captain 
Iso  recalls 
sland  to  u 
stronoraer 
•n  constel- 
mmit  was 
and  some 
lelena  on 


10  markets 
onts  were 
r  supplies, 
jrs  in  the 
the  letters 
'or  sailing 
Canal  has 
lost  nearly 
•r  exports 
ihubitants, 
ity  of  the 


s 

■t. 

is 

rf. 

U 

9. 


V   \  S 


II 


l*S 


^1^ 


11 


-^^^^j  >>--,n  ; 


rrifc.ras; 


i5^P3>l*Sif 


T' 


SAINT   n      WA. 


105 


British  Oovorninpnt,  have  not  had  tho  «x\  to  rt    >vcr  b\   tilhipo  what  they  had 

lost  by  the  stoppage  of  trade.      Most  of  the  :irmc!%  ruin'-l  by  inorlgages,  vr«<re 

also  compelled  to  surrender  their  holditi^s  tlu    capit      sts  of  the  chief  town. 

Monopoly  was  thus  followed  by  its  usual  tun  lueuee,  na     ly. 

Jamkstown. — Loxowooi). 

It  has  been  proposed  to  develop  the  cultivation  of  I'/innniiim  ft  r,  tohnc<'o.  and 
other  industrial  plants;  but  those  projects  have  had  no  result,  and  the  population 
lias  considerably  diminished  by  emigration,  especially  to  the  Cajie.  It  thus  fell 
from  (i.StiO  in  IStJl  to  .^(HJO  in  l.SSl,  notwithstanding  the  perfectly  healthy  climate 
and  the  great  excess  of  births  over  deaths.  The  revenu(>,  public  service,  (>ducation, 
everything,  is  in  u  state  of  decadence,  and  the  island  is  now  visited  by  few 
strangers. 

JdincHtoirn,  the  only  town  in  St.  Helena,  lies  on  the  west  or  leeward  side,  where 
it  could  alone  have  been  founded.  The  opposite  coast  is  i-enderivl  almost  inacces- 
sible by  the  fury  of  the  breakers,  caused  by  the  influence  of  the  trade  winds.  The 
town  with  its  surrounding  gardens  occupies  the  entrance  of  a  narrow  mountain 
gorge,  which  after  heavy  rains  sends  down  an  impetuous  stream,  at  times  swee))ing 
seawards  cattle,  trees,  and  debris  of  all  sorts.  West  of  Jamestown  the  escarpments 
rise  at  a  sharp  angle,  forming  the  so-called  Ladder  Hill  ((»()()  feet),  which  is 
crowned  by  military  structures.  This  eminence  takes  its  name  from  a  flight  of 
nearly  seven  hundred  steps  cut  in  a  straight  line  up  the  face  of  the  rock.  Rupert's 
]Iill,  lying  farther  east,  is  surmounted  by  a  steep  road,  which  penetrates  into  the 
interior,  leading  to  the  little  house  at  Longwood  where;  Napoleon  lived  and  died. 
Near  it  is  the  "  Valley  of  the  Tomb  ;  "  but  the  body,  which  had  been  hero  placed 
under  a  clump  of  willows,  reposes  since  1840  under  the  dome  of  the  Invalides  in 
Paris. 

The  inhabitants  of  St.  Helena  have  uo  representative  institutions.  The  island, 
which  till  the  year  18;J4  belonged  to  the  East  India  Company,  is  now  a  Crown 
colony,  all  officials  being  uoniiuated  by  the  central  government  in  London. 


km 
m 


1«1 '« 


m 


f  m 
r  'S 


>i 


Ascension. 

This  island,  also  an  English  Crown  colony,  was  discovered  in  the  same  year  as 
St.  Helena  and  by  the  same  navigator,  Juan  de  Nova.  It  lies  nearly  on  the 
median  line  of  the  Atlantic  basin,  resting  on  the  submerged  "  Challenger  "  ridge,  by 
which  the  deep  African  wateri?  are  separated  from  the  still  deeper  abysses  of  th<i 
western  seas  bathing  the  New  World.  Ascension  is  distant  about  1,;}20  miles  from 
Pernambuco  on  the  Brazilian  coast,  and  a  little  farther  from  Angola  under  the 
sfime  latitude  on  the  west  coast  of  Africa,  but  not  more  than  9^0  miles  from  Cape 
Palmas,  the  nearest  point  on  that  continent.  Like  St.  Helena,  it  falls  within  the 
zone  of  the  south-east  trade  winds,  and  consequently  presents  the  same  phenomenon 
of  surf-beaten  shores,  rendering  the  south  side  almost  inaccessible,  and  obliging 

71-AF 


k.    1 


B9' 


nti 


n 


P 


100 


WKsr  AFKICA. 


vt>?<s('ls  til  Hovk  shelter  on  tlio  north  or  h>ewiinl  cniiHt.  The  roHeri",  wliich  break  on 
the  heiiili  even  in  cihii  weather,  and  especially  from  December  to  April,  uro 
l)erhaps  even  mure  lormiilable  than  at  St.  Helena.  This  ma;,'iiiticeiif  spectacle  lasts 
at  times  I'or  days  and  weeks  toirether.  IJnt  iniy:hty  billows  :((»  t'eel  and  upwards  in 
heijfht  are  sometimes  raised  within  u  few  ininntes  and  as  siiddeidy  stil'ed.  Hy 
Kvans  thev  arc  atlril)nted  to  tho  fall  of  enormous  icoberfj;s,  which  break  awuy 
incessantly  fntni  the  rocky  Antaretie  lands,  and  plnnjife  bodily  into  the  deep. 

Ascension  is  of  smaller  si/e  (.'{(>,(M(((  acres)  bnt  more  re<jnlar  form  thun  St. 
Ifelena,  presentinf?  the  outlines  of  ii  spherical  trianjfle,  with  its  most  [)recipitous 
side  faciiifj  towards  the  trade  winds.  It  culminates  in  the  centre  with  a  lofty 
c«me  'J.SOO  feet  hi;?h,  whence  is  aifonled  a  comprehensive  view  of  nearly  all 
the  now  extinct  craters,  of  which  geohij^ists  have  reckoned  us  many  as  forty-one. 
From  tho  central  cone  Darwin  noticed  that  the  mounds  of  scorise  presented  their 
more  slopinj^  side  towards  the  south-east  trade  winds,  while  the  lurj^est  quantities 
of  iffneous  matter  were  t>jected  on  the  opposite  side,  where  it  falls  in  abrupt 
escarpments.  Most  of  tlu-  craters  are  cut  obliciuely  by  the  effect  of  the  aei'ial 
current,  allhou<fh  nearly  all  the  inner  cinpies  are  of  extremely  regular  form.  One 
of  them  has  even  received  the  name  of  the  Riding  School. 

Volcanic;  boulders  are  scattered  round  the  craters,  and  in  tho  mass  of  scoriic  are 
embedded  somi>  blocks  of  different  formation,  such  as  syenite  and  granite,  liut 
apart  from  these  isolated  specimens,  tho  red  and  calcined  masso?  Ascension  presents 
nothing  but  igneous  rocks,  such  as  bisalts,  pumice,  pozzolana,  oi  irgillacoous  days. 
Hound  about  the  shore-line,  however,  the  masses  of  broken  shells,  of  corals,  and 
volcanic  sands  are  consolidated  into  a  sort  of  limestone  conglomerate,  which  may  be 
used  as  a  building  material.  Certain  varieties  of  this  rock  acquire  the  v^'onsistoncy 
and  appearance  of  while  marble,  while  others  are  disposed  in  transparent  and 
almost  crystalline  layers,  covering  as  with  enamel  the  reefs  washed  by  the  tides. 
This  natural  cement  becomes  fixed  so  rapidly  that  young  turtles  hatched  in  the 
sands  get  overtaken  and  embedded  in  the  concrete  mass. 

CmMATK. — Fl.OKA. 

When  tho  air  rem;iin3  nnrefroshod  by  the  sea-broezos,  the  temperature  becomes 
very  oppressive,  for  Ascension  lies  under  7^  ■')~  S.  latitude,  within  ■')■')()  miles  of  the 
equator.  In  the  roadstead  the  mean  annual  temperature  is  S4'  F.,  which  on  the 
l)reezv  uplands  falls  to  (iS"  or  (>ven  (K)'^  F.  Although  an  epidemic  of  yellow  fever 
carried  off  a  third  of  the  garrison  in  182-'{,  the  climate  is  considered  exceptionally 
salubrious,  despite  the  high  temperature;  the  island  has  even  become  a  health- 
resort  for  Kuropeans  residing  on  the  xVfrican  coast.  The  rainfall,  much  less 
copious  than  in  St.  Helena,  is  insufficient  for  the  local  requirements;  hence  the 
smallest  springs,  including  one  discovered  by  Dampier  when  shipwrecked  here  in 
1701,  are  husbanded  with  the  greatest  care.  The  few  heavy  showers  almost  entirely 
disappear  in  the  scoriic  coveiing  most  of  the  surface. 

Since  18U0  successful  attempts  have  been  made  to  replant  the  uplands.     The 


break  on 
pnl,  iiro 
aril-  lasts 
iwanls  ill 
'..1.  Hy 
ak  away 

thun  St. 
rccipitous 
1  11  lofty 
early  all 
orty-one. 
trd  their 
{uaiitities 
a  abrupt 
he  aerial 
in.     One 

leoriie  arc 
ite.  Hut 
1  presents 
[JUS  clays. 
Drals,  and 
■h  may  be 
msistoney 
irent  and 
the  tides, 
.'d   in   the 


AS("I:NSI()N. 


107 


0  becomes 
Ips  of  the 
eh  on  the 
How  fever 
eptionally 
a  healtli- 
nuch  less 
hence  the 
k1  here  in 
3t  entirely 

ads.     The 


orijfiiml  vepetnfion  comprisiHl  only  sixteen  species  of  floweriiij;  plants,  amon>j;st 
wliieh  was  one  shrub,  the  llfih/otis  ^Isd'tixiniiiM  ;  but  the  iniroduced  species  are  n<»w 
reckoned  by  the  hundred.  Mr.  Hell,  the  botanist,  has  transformed  the  hij?her 
fi^rounds  to  a  vast  j;arden  of  acclimatisation,  iind  a  s])ace  of  about  |(M)  acres  is  now 
covered  with  rising  forests  of  acacias,  araucarias,  >;um-trees,  junipers,  and 
eucal\ptuses.  These  plantations  have  had  u  salutary  effect  on  the  climiito,  by 
i:»tercepting  the  nioisture,  which  even  trickles  from  the  fi'liaj^e  to  the  (ground, 
where  it  is  collected  to  water  the  animals,  and  even  to  supply  the  wants  of  man. 

Fig.  41.— AscEjfsiojr. 

Scale  1  :  200.000. 


(4°£ia'  West  of    Greenwich 


14°  PO' 


Depths 


m 


otoeao 

Feet. 


ceo  Feet  and 
ui  wards. 

3  Uiles. 


Direct  experiment  has  thus  shown  that,  at  least  in  these  torrid  climates,  plantations 
do  really  to  some  slight  extent  increase  the  moisture  by  distilling  the  water  of  the 
clouds. 


F.wN.A. — Inhabitants. 

Like  the  flora,  the  fauna,  with  the  exception  of  the  large  sea-birds  and  marine 
animals,  is  of  exotic  origin.  From  Europe  have  been  introduced  the  goats  and 
cats,  both  now  running  wild,  the  rats,  dogs,  pheasants,  poultry,  and,  from  Africa.. 


108 


WEST  AFRICA. 


ii 


the  guinea-fowl.  Snakes  are  unknown ;  but  turtles  of  gigantic  size  abound  from 
December  to  May,  when  they  leave  the  water  to  lay  their  eggs  in  the  sand.  Most 
of  them  weigh  from  four  hundred  and  fifty  to  six  hundred  pounds,  but  have  been 
found  weighing  as  much  as  nine  hundred  pounds,  but  their  flesh  is  less  esteemed 
b}'  epicures  than  that  of  the  smaller  West  Indian  variety.  The  fisheries  were 
formerly  very  productive,  yielding  as  many  as  two  thousand  five  hundred  in 
exceptional  years,  but  the  average  take  does  not  now  exceed  three  hundred. 
During  the  spawning  season  no  guns  are  fired  nor  lights  kindled  on  the  beach,  to 
avoid  scaring  these  timid  chelonians.  Large  numbers  of  young  turtles,  as  soon  as 
hatched,  are  devoured  bj'  the  sea-birds  wheeling  inces.-iutly  overhead. 

The  only  inhabitants  of  xVscension  are  the  soldiers,  sailors,  officials,  and  a  few 
provision-dealers  attached  to  the  garrison.  Politically  the  island  is  regarded  as  a 
man-of-war  whose  inhabitants  are  the  crew.  The  governor  is,  like  a  naval  captain, 
"master  on  board,"  allowing  no  person  to  land  without  the  special  permission  of 
the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty.  This  military  station  was  first  established  in  181-5,  in 
order  to  keep  watch  over  Napoleon;  but  even  after  his  death  in  1H21  the  station 
was  maintained,  thanks  to  its  position  as  a  sentinel  iu  the  centre  of  the  Atlantic 
highroad,  and  midway  between  the  two  continents.  At  Gcorffi'foini,  the  only  group 
of  habitations,  passing  steamers  renew  their  supplies  of  coal  and  provisions,  but  can 
obtain  water  only  in  case  of  extreme  urgency. 


Islands  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea. 

These  four  islands,  although  equally  of  volcanic  origin,  differ  from  the  .other 
South  Atlantic  groups,  at  least  by  their  position  in  relatively  shallow  water  near 
the  African  coast.  In  the  Gulf  of  Guinea  the  depths  are  everywhere  under  1,000 
fathoms,  falling  on  one  side  of  Fernando-Po  to  less  than  ;J40  feet.  Through 
the  inclined  plain  on  which  they  rest  these  islands  form  a  natural  dependence  of 
Africa ;  their  craters  are  also  disposed  in  a  straight  line  which  is  continued  on  the 
mainland  by  the  Kameroons  volcano,  so  that  the  insular  and  contiiu^ntal  masses 
obviously  form  a  single  system  lying  on  the  line  of  the  same  volcanic  fault. 
Possibly  St.  Helena  may  belong  to  the  same  system,  but  it  is  so  remote  and 
separated  by  such  deep  waters  from  the  continent,  that  it  must  be  regarded  as  a 
world  apart. 

The  four  islands  running  due  south-west  and  north-east  form  also  a  distinct 
geographical  group,  whose  members  are  disposed  at  regular  intervals  of  about  120 
miles  one  from  the  other.  Politically  they  are  divided  amongst  two  European 
powers,  the  two  inner  islands,  San>Thome  and  Principe,  belonging  to  Portugal,  the 
two  outer,  Annobon  and  Fernando-Po,  forming  Spanish  possessions  since  1778. 

An  NO  BON. 

Annobon,  properly  Anno  Bom,  that  is,  "  Good  Year,"  was  so  named  in  1471 
by  its  Portuguese  discoverers,  Escobar  and  Santarem,  because  they  sighted  it  on 


''"sm^^^^mmm^^m 


t  l- 


ANN0I50N. 


109 


;<ii'*t«5 


und  from 
[id.  Most 
iiive  been 

esteemed 
?riea  were 
iindred  in 

hundred. 

beach,  to 
as  soon  as 

md  a  few 
arded  as  a 
III  captain, 
mission  of 
n  I8I0,  in 
he  stiition 
e  Atlantic 
iiily  group 
IS,  but  can 


the  .other 
rater  near 
idor  1,000 

Through 
ndence  of 
led  on  the 
tal  masses 
nic  fault, 
mote  and 
irded  as  a 

a  distinct 
about  1^0 

European 
•tugal,  the 
e  1778. 


d  in  1471 
ited  it  on 


January  1st  of  that  year.  It  is  the  smallest  of  the  group,  with  a  auporficial  area 
of  scarcely  7  stjuare  miles.  This  mass  of  fissured  lavas  rises  in  the  central  cone 
of  Pico  do  Fogo  to  a  height  of  'i,2i)0  feet.  Encircling  the  peak  are  some  forest- 
clad  lateral  cones,  and  a  small  crater  near  the  summit  is  flooded  by  a  lake  in  whose 


Fig.  42.— SAM-TiioMfi. 

Scale  1  :  5fiO,00i). 


East   or  ureenwich 


Depths. 


OtoSO 

80  Feet  and 

Feet. 

upwaids. 

blue  waters  is  mirrored  the  foliage  of  the  surrounding  orange-groves.  The  dense 
and  sombre  woods  of  the  interior  are  contrasted  lower  down  by  a  girdle  of  more 
delicate  verdure,  consisting  of  palms  and  bananas. 

The  verdant  aspect  of  the  island  gives  proof  of  a  much  more  copious  rainfall 
than  in  St.  Ilelena,  and  if  Annobon  is  drier  than  the  more  northern  members  of 


iM-'  ' 


no  WEST  AFRICA. 

Fig.  43. — Cascade  of  Blu-Blu,  on  the  Aooa  Grande,  neab  the  Capital  of  Sam-Thom^. 


li'S 


muk 


the  group,  it  is  also  far  more  salubrious.     Yet  it  has  never  become  a  European 


-.^m^:^^7ii'^''^w^.yiSf'U>^pm^^mi^mi^mfimm 


sam-tuom6. 


Ill 


f'olony,  and  all  its  throe  thoiisiuul  iiilial.itaiits  arc  Noproos  or  iicnplc  of  cdlour, 
dosct'iuled  fnnii  shipwrockt-d  sailors  or  slaves  iiitrodueed  by  the  lir>t  I'ortujiuese 
oeeupiers.  They  are  devout  Catholies,  or,  at  hast,  observers  of  the  outward 
fornis  of  till  Cliureh.  .SV/«j-^(//o«/o  r/^/  /';v//r?.  the  chief  vilhij^i"  of  tliis  little  hlaek 
republic,  lies  on  the  north  side,  where  it  supplies  [jussiug  vessels  with  water,  wood 
and  fruit,  especially  exquisite  oranges. 

Sam -Thome. 

Sam  Thome  (Saint  Thomas),  like  all  the  others,  is  of  oval  form,  but  n:uch  hir<»er 
than  Annobou,  covering  an  area  of  ''570  scjuure  miles.  There  appear  to  liave 
been  several  centres  of  eruption,  the  profile  showing  not  one  dt)minating  cone,  but 
several  lofty  peaks,  such  as  the  central,  Santa-Anna  de  Chaves,  and  Stim-Thome 
on  the  west  side,  which  rises  to  a  height  of  7,()()()  feet,  or  a  little  more  than  its 
rival.  The  j)eak,  whose  wooded  slopes  have  been  scaled  by  several  traveUers,  is 
flanked  on  the  north  and  east  by  a  semicircular  ridge  known  as  the  ('ordilh(>ira  de 
Sam-Thome,  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  fragment  of  an  old  crater.  Several 
islets  rise  above  the  neighbouring  waters,  of  which  the  largest  are  Cabras  (  "  Uout " ) 
and  Rolas  ("Doves"),  separated  by  the  equator  from  the  larger  island. 

The  temperature  is  somewhat  moderated  by  the  relatively  cooler  southern 
current,  which,  at  times,  encircles  the  whole  island.  To  this  cause  is  due  the 
greater  salubrity  enjoyed  by  Sam-Thome  compared  with  the  other  lands  lying 
nearer  the  marshy  regions  of  the  continent.  The  months  of  June,  July,  and 
August,  which  arc  the  most  unhealthy  on  the  maiidand  and  in  Fernando-lV),  are 
the  least  trying  for  J^uropeans  in  Sam-Thome,  although  still  dangerous  for  the 
Negroes,  who  then  suffer  from  chills  and  rheumatism.  Europeans  readily  become 
pcclimatised  on  the  uplands,  where  the  heats  are  less  intense,  and  every  j)lantation 
is  a  sanatorium.  This  is  an  iui|x>rtant  consideration  in  the  neighbourhood  of  such 
unhealthy  coastlands  as  those  of  Calabf.r,  the  Kameroons,  and  Gaboon,  where  the 
attempts  of  the  whites  to  acclimatise  themselves  have  hitherto  had  but  partial  success. 
At  the  same  time  the  coast  of  Sam-Thonu*  is  also  generally  regarded  as  very  dan- 
gerous to  strangers.  The  island  is  situated  in  the  intermediate  zone  between  the 
oceanic  and  tropical  African  climates ;  its  rainfall  is  abundant,  and  every  valley 
has  consequently  its  riheira,  or  mountain  torrent,  rushing  in  successive  falls  from 
rock  to  rock.  The  best  known  of  these  streams  is  the  Agoa  Grande,  on  the  north- 
east slope,  ut  the  mouth  of  which  stands  the  capital.  At  the  lUu-Hlu  cascade  its 
limpid  waters  descend  in  a  body  do\\'n  to  the  gardens,  refreshing  with  their  spiay 
the  overhanging  foliage  of  the  bananas. 


F1.OKA   AND    Fai'.va. 

Sam-Thome  lies  not  more  than  150  miles  from  Cape  Lopez,  the  nearest  con- 
tinental headland.  Hence  the  local  vegetation,  represented  by  about  four  hundred 
and  thirty  species,  greatly  resembles  that  of  the  mainland.     Nevertheless,  certain 


112 


WEST  AFRICA. 


features  in  its  natural  history  would  seem  to  imply  that  the  island  was  never  at 
any  tiiue  connected  with  Africa.  Of  its  eighteen  species  of  laud  molluscs  one  only 
occurs  on  the  neighbouring  coast ;  a  bat  also  (Cf/noiii/cteris  stmmineun)  is  peculiar 
to  the  island,  as  well  as  a  monkey  {Ccrvopitliccus  a/birjii/aiis),  the  only  member  of  the 
family  found  in  its  forests.  Of  noxious  animals  the  most  troublesome  are  the 
cobra  negra,  a  poisonous  snake,  dangerous  to  those  engaged  in  clearing  the  woods, 
and  the  rat,  very  often  destructive  to  the  crops. 


^"If"* 


Inhahitants. 

Since  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century  Sam- Thome  was  occupied  by  European 
colonists,  who  worked  their  plantations  by  means  of  slave  labour.  Ihit  in  LJGT 
the  French  corsairs  drove  the  Portuguese  settlers  to  take  refuge  in  the  inhtnd  forests, 
while  those  in  the  north  were  harassed  by  some  Angolan  Negroes,  who  had  been 
shipwrecked  and  obtained  a  footing  on  the  south-west  side.  For  over  a  century 
this  guerilla  warfare  was  continued,  but  the  runaways  were  at  last  reduced  in  WM. 
They,  however,  still  occupy  tlie  west  coast  to  the  number  of  about  thirteen  hundred, 
faithfully  preserving  their  national  usages,  keeping  entirely  aloof  from  the  other 
islanders,  and  still  speaking  the  Eunda  language  of  their  ancestors. 

During  the  first  half  of  the  present  century  Sam-Thome  lost  much  of  its 
economic  importance  through  the  emigration  of  large  numbers  to  Brazil ;  but  since 
ISTG,  when  the  slaves  were  emancipated,  the  island  has  become  one  of  the  most 
flourishing  colonial  possessions  of  Portugal.  During  the  first  period  of  the  colo- 
nisation attention  was  chiefly  paid  to  the  sugar-cane,  which  was  introduced  from 
Madeira,  and  which  in  some  years  yielded  2,000  tons.  Numerous  other  tropicul 
plants  also  thrive  in  the  gardens,  and  the  heights  between  2,000  and  4,600  feet 
are  now  covered  with  cinchona  plantations  containing  as  many  as  a  million  trees. 
But  the  chief  sources  of  wealth  are  coffee  and  cacao  exported  almost  exclusively  to 
Lisbon,  where  they  are  much  more  highly  esteemed  than  those  of  the  Antilles. 
Nearly  all  the  north  side  of  the  island  is  under  cultivation,  while  the  southern  half 
is  still  nuiinly  overgr-wn  with  primeval  forest. 

The  population  is  increasing  rapidly,  having  risen  from  8,000  in  1853  to  18,200 
in  1878,  of  whom  1,200  are  either  whites  or  mestizos.  But  education  is  still  in 
a  very  backward  state,  scarcely  more  than  two  hundred  and  sixty  being  able  to 
read  and  write. 

Ciiladc,  or  the  "  city,"  capital  of  the  island,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  semi- 
circular Anna  de  Chaves  bay  on  the  north-east  coast,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Agoa 
Grande.  Here  resides  the  governor  and  commander  of  the  Portuguese  garrison, 
in  the  neighbourhood  are  some  salt-pans. 


I 


Principe. 

The  Ilha  do  Principe  (Prince's  Island),  so  named  because  thirty  years  after  its 
discovery  in  1471  it  was  assigned  as  an  appanage  to  a  royal  prince,  is  six  times 


r*i^#Wiai«^ 


II 


FERNANDO-PO. 


118 


nailer  than  Sam-Thome,  having  an  area  of  only  fiO  square  miles.  The  surface, 
somewhat  uniform  in  the  north,  rises  rapidly  southwards,  attaining  in  the  chief 
peak  a  height  of  2,700  feet.  The  copious  rains  falling  on  this  "  garden  of  Africa  " 
have  clothed  the  slopes  with  dense  forests,  and  furrowed  them  with  "  as  nuiny 
streamlets  as  there  are  days  in  the  year"  (F.  Travassos  Valdez).  The  atmosphere, 
however,  is  less  healthy  than  in  the  southern  islands,  and  especially  in  Annoh'^n, 
Principe  lying  altogether  heyond  the  influence  of  the  relatively  cool  equatorial 
current.  Cultivated  by  slave  labour  from  the  first  period  of  the  Portuguese 
occupation,  it  soon  developjd  extensive  sugar  plantations,  but  derived  its  chief 
importance  from  its  depot  of  Negroes,  whence  the  American  slavers  drew  their 
supijlies.  At  present  there  is  scarcely  any  trjiffic,  except  in  the  little  coffee  and 
cacao  raised  on  the  northern  slope.  The  natives,  almost  exclusively  blacks,  who  call 
themselves  Portuguese  and  Catholics,  have  decreased  from  nearly  five  thousand 
in  the  middle  of  the  centuiy,  to  little  over  half  that  number.  Xearly  all  reside 
on  the  north-east  coast,  in  the  little  port  of  Santo  Aiitoiito,  near  a  well- sheltered 
bay. 

Fkrxani)o-Po. 

The  island,  which  has  preserved  under  the  Spanish  form  of  Fernando-Po  the 
name  of  its  Portuguese  discoverer,  Fernao  do  Poo,  is  at  once  the  largest  and  finest 
of  the  volcanic  chaiu  intersecting  the  Gulf  of  Guinea.  The  surface,  about  880 
square  miles  in  extent,  is  mostly  mountainous,  rising  gradually  from  the  periphery 
to  the  cloud-capped  central  cone  (10,000  feet),  which  is  known  to  the  English  as 
Clarence  l*eak,  and  to  the  Spaniards  as  the  Pico  Santa  Isabel.  The  island  presents 
the  form  of  an  elongated  parallelogram  disposed  in  the  direction  from  north-east 
to  south-west,  and  terminating  on  all  four  sides  in  steep  clift's  and  escarpments 
broken  here  and  there  only  by  a  few  gently  sloping  circular  inlets. 

Seafarers  navigating  the  strait,  some  18  miles  wide,  flowing  between  Fernando- 
Po  and  the  African  mainland,  contemplate  in  fine  weather  one  of  the  grandest, 
spectacles  on  the  surface  of  the  globe.  They  pass  through  a  superb  gateway, 
formed  on  one  side  by  the  Kameroons  with  its  wooded  hills,  rugged  j)eaks,  and 
snow-flecked  cone,  on  the  other  by  the  island  of  Fernando-Po,  with  its  lofty  bluffs, 
its  sloijes  clothed  in  verdure  from  base  to  summit,  its  perfectly  regular  volcano 
overtopping  all.  This  noble  approach  to  the  inner  Gulf  of  Guinea  would  be  as 
famous  as  the  Strait  of  Gibraltar  or  the  Bosphorus,  if  like  them  it  led  to  a  busy 
inland  sea  or  to  a  great  capital,  instead  of  to  desert  coastlands  fringed  only  with 
wretched  hamlets. 

Unlike  the  other  Austral  Atlantic  lands,  Fernando-Po  is  not  an  oceanic  island, 
for  its  northern  section  rests  on  the  pedestal  which  forms  the  circuit  of  the 
continent.  The  intervening  strait  has  an  extreme  depth  of  only  290  feet,  and 
on  both  sides  the  marine  bed  rises  rapidly  towards  the  strand.  The  submerged 
plateau  extends  for  some  distance  to  the  east  and  west  of  the  island  ;  then  the 
sounding-line  suddenly  plunges  into  deep  abysses,  reveling  depths  of  over  650 
fathoms  a  little  to  the  south  of  Fernundo-Po.     The  quadrangular  muss  is  thus 


114 


WEST  AFRICA. 


divided  into  two  sections,  one  resting  ftn  the  continental  plateau,  the  other  washed 
1)V  deep  oceanic  waters.  None  of  its  cones  are  active,  and  no  eruptions  have 
hitherto  been  reported  by  tlie  natives. 

On  all  sides  the  waters  descend  from  the  hills  in  little  cascades  and  rivulets, 
irrigating  ev(<ry  dell  and  vaHey,  and  everywhere  maititaining  a  fresh  and  exuberant 
vegetation;  every  tree  is  clothed  with  a  forest  of  tiny  orchids,  ferns,  and  begonias, 
and  every  branch  is  draped  with  festoons  of  hanging  mosses.  The  iaickets  of 
matted  plants  are  a  greater  obstacle  even  than  the  rugged  slopes  to  the  exjdoratiou 
of  the  ishiud,  which  has,  nevertheless,  been  traversed  in  every  direction ;  while  the 
central,  as  well  as  the  neighbouring  cones,  has  been  several  times  ascended  since 
the  feat  was  first  jjcrformed  by  Hecroft. 

The  exuberance  of  the  arborescent  vegetation  is  due  to  the  abundant  moisture 
brought  by  the  south-west  monsoons,  whicii  blow  regularly  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  rainy  season,  and  which  are  frequently  interrupted  by  the  tornadoes,  causing 
a  considerable  precipitation  on  the  uplands.  Mention  is  made  by  M.  Tellon  of  u 
waterspout  which  burst  over  the  land,  discharging  in  a  single  hour  a  liquid  mass 
six  inches  thick.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  on  the  higher  grounds  even  heavier 
downpours  occur,  as  may  be  concluded  from  the  dense  vajxiurs  and  clouds 
constantly  enveloping  the  h)ftier  summits,  and  often  even  during  the  dry  season  the 
lower  slopes.  There  are  altogether  about  u  hundred  and  sixty-seven  rainy  days, 
with  a  mean  annual  rainfall  ot  from  100  to  l'.iO  inches,  and  an  average  temperature 
of  77"  F.  at  (he  capital,  Suntu-Isabel,  varying  from  90^  F.  in  February  to  CG^  F. 
in  ScpteinlH>r. 

Flora. 

Thanks  to  the  great  elevation  of  its  mountainj,  rising  from  the  torrid  lowluiuls 
to  the  cold  upijer  regions,  Fernando-Po  presents  u  highly  diversified  flora,  corres- 
ponding below  with  that  of  the  neighbouring  mainland,  higher  up  with  that  of 
the  African  highlands.  The  sunnnit  of  the  i)eak  is  clothed  with  a  vegetation 
resenibling  that  of  the  temperate  zone,  in  which  Mann  has  recognised  seventeen 
species  recurring  on  the  lofty  Abyssinian  uplands  2,000  miles  away.  The  same 
botanist  asserts  that  the  flora  of  the  peak  offers  a  certain  affinity  with  that  of  the 
islands  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  while  dilfeiing  altogether  from  that  of  the  Cape  and 
the  Atlantic  islands. 

All  the  cultivated  tropical  plants  flourish  on  the  lowlands,  and  those  of  the 
temi)erate  /one  on  'he  middle  slopes,  so  that  the  island  might  become  a  garden  of 
accliuuitisation  for  all  the  terrestrial  flora.  The  species  most  generally  cultivated 
are  tlie  same  us  in  Sam-Thome — cacao,  coffee,  sugar-cane,  cotton,  tobacco.  The 
banana,  nuiize,  rice,  tapioca,  yams,  supply  abundance  of  food  to  the  black  popula- 
tion, and  on  the  cleared  uplands  grow  all  Kuropcan  vegetables.  The  cinchona 
plaii.tations  have  also  yielded  excellent  results. 


Fauna. 
Most   European  domestic  animals  have  been  introduced ;  cattle  herd  in  the 


feunando-po. 


116 


glades,  and  to  the  })roduce  of  stock-broodiJig  are  added  the  abundant  supplies 
yielded  by  the  Ksheries  of  the  surrounding  waters.  But  tlie  primitive  fauna  is 
very  poor  except  in  birds,  inseets,  and  wonns,  besides  several  sj)ecies  of  venomous 
i«nd  hanidess  snakes.  Tlie  only  wild  quadruped  is  a  species  of  antelope,  which 
•jas  taken  refuge  on  the  uplands,  and  is  now  found  only  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
higher  craters.     Formerly  three  species  of  monkeys  inhabited  the  woodlands,  and 

Fig.  44. — FEiiNA.Nno-Po. 
Scale  1  :  (VSiMKio. 


I?! 


I 


Depths. 


0  to  ««0 
Feet. 

660  Feet  and 
upwards. 

most  naturalists  still  think  that  these  quadrumana  were  indigenous.  But  although 
their  remains  arc  found  in  the  island,  the  animals  may  have  been  introduced  from 
the  continent. 

Inhabitants. 
According  to  an  ancient  tradition,  Fernando-Po  was  formerly  inhabited  by  a 


'■r^^' 


I 


,-■4  I"*! 


110 


WEST  AFRICA. 


different  race  of  blacks  from  the  present,  nnd  to  them  are  attributed  the  stone  axes 
that  have  been  pickcMl  up  in  vari*)us  districts.  Hut  however  this  be,  the  present 
population  has  certainlj'  immigrated  from  the  mainland,  either  at  some  time  before 
the  arrival  of  the  Europeans,  or  soon  after  its  discovery.  It  consists  of  scattered 
groups  approximately  estimated  at  nearly  thirty  thousand,  who  collectively  call 
themselves  ]lubi  (the  '*  ]{oobio.s  "  of  English  writers),  that  is,  "  Men,"  and  who 
give  the  name  of  Achimama  ("  All  Lauds,"  or  *'  Universe"),  to  the  island.     They 

Fig.  43.— Uay  or  Santa- Isabel. 
Scale  1 :  iojMO. 


Last  cf  G 


0to32 
Feet. 


Deptha 


32  to  80 
Feet. 


8U  Feet  and 
upwards. 


6fi0  Tarda. 


are  probably  descended  from  several  tribes,  for  they  speak  at  least  five  dialects  of 
Bintu  origin,  like  those  of  the  neighbouring  coastlands.  They  are  a  shy,  timid 
race,  greatly  inferior  in  dignity  and  physical  appearance  to  their  continental 
kindred.  They  practise  a  coarse  system  of  tattooing,  cutting  deep  gashes  on  the 
face  and  body,  which  changes  the  naturally  smooth  skin  to  a  rugged  surface. 
They  also  smear  themselves  with  red  ochre  mixed  Avith  palm  oil,  with  the  same 
cosmetic  converting  the  hair  to  a  solid  mass,  on  which  is  worn  a  headdress  of 
plaited  herbs.     Both  sexes  wear  a  tight  leather  thong  round  the  left  arm,  reducing 


'W^^- 


FE1{NAM)0-P0. 


117 


it  to  the  compuHs  of  llie  wrist,  and  through  this  thnnp  the  men  jmss  their  knives. 
Their  currency  is  two  8{K'cie8  of  shells,  which  thev  find  on  the  coiiHt,  and  which 
serve  also  to  deck  their  jmtsohs  and  protect  their  dwcllini^s  ap^ainst  the  evil  spirits. 

All  the  Hiihi  triltes  live  in  the  interior,  remote  fnun  the  "  citizens,"  whom 
thev  have  jjood  reason  t(»  mistrust.  Fornierlv  thev  were  hunted  down  and  carried 
away  into  slavery;  hence  had  to  take  refuj»e  in  eaves  and  dense  thi<'kets,  guarded 
by  a  fierce  breed  of  dogs,  which  ^rowl  and  bite,  but  never  bark.  Now  they  live 
in  huts,  into  which  they  reluctantly  admit  Kuroi)eans.  On  the  other  hand,  they 
were  thems«<lves  at  times  danffi>rous  nei<;hbours,  and  are  said  to  have  twice 
jK)isoned  the  streams  and  sprin<rs  in  order  to  drive  away  the  I'ortujjuese,  who 
appear  to  have  been  effectually  {j^ot  rid  of  in  this  way.  The  Spatn'ards  also  were 
on  the  point  of  withdrawin<;  in  1S">.S,  the  natives  having  refused  to  supply  them 
with  provisions.  "Now,  however,  all  are  better  friends;  the  authority  of  the 
governor  is  recognised,  and  his  staff  of  olHce  sent  to  two  hostile  tribes  suffices  to 
restore  order. 

The  Hubis  worship  the  great  spirit,  Umo,  an  invisible  being,  who  reveals 
himself  in  a  dazzling  light  and  in  a  rumbling  voice  coming  up  from  the  depths  of 
the  ground.  When  a  votary  wishes  to  implore  his  mercy,  or  obtain  a  knowledge 
of  the  future,  he  penetrates  through  a  narrow  fissure  into  the  cave,  and  advancing 
on  all-fours  lays  his  offering  at  the  feet  of  the  priest  representing  the  divinity. 
Suddenly  a  bundle  of  rays  flashes  through  an  ojwning  in  the  vault,  enveloping  the 
priest  in  a  divine  light.  He  is  consulted  and  transmits  the  supplications  to  I'mo, 
and  the  cavern  presently  reverlx>rates  with  the  thunder  of  the  god  himself,  who 
seems  to  rise  from  the  abyss  to  answer  the  prayers  of  the  suppliant. 

There  also  resides  on  the  east  coast  a  "  powerful  king,"  who  cannot  be 
approached  in  person,  but  who  remits  the  executive  and  judicial  functions  to  the 
bula,  a  society  which  speaks  and  acts  in  his  name.  At  the  coronation  he  retires  to 
a  cave  in  order  to  hold  eonunune  with  the  demon  through  the  mediation  of  snakes. 
The  secondary  '*  kings  "  of  the  neighbouring  tribes  are  scarcely  to  be  distinguished 
from  ordinary  subjects. 


Traoe — Topor.n.vpnY. — Admixistration. 

The  coast  population,  concentrated  in  Santa-Isabel  on  the  north  side,  and  in  a 
few  scattered  hamlets,  are  mostly  the  descendants  of  black  slaves  set  free  either  by 
the  English  cruisers  or  by  their  Spanish  nuisters.  The  European  traders  have  also 
introduced  some  Negroes  from  JiUgos,  Cupe-Coust,  Sierra-Leone,  or  Sam-Thome, 
who  represent  the  most  civilised  section  of  the  black  population,  and  give  the 
English  language  the  preponderance  over  Spanish,  liut  the  Cuban  exiles,  recently 
numbering  two  hundred,  have  most  contributed  to  the  industrial  and  connncrcial 
development  of  the  island.  To  them  is  due  the  honour  of  having  introduced  the 
cultivation  of  cacao,  sugar,  tobacco,  and  begun  the  manufacture  of  the  famous 
Santa-Tsabel  cigars.     But  after  serving  their  term  of  banishment  most  of  these 


in  \ 


118 


^^'EST  AFinr.v. 


oxik'H  \ui\c  rofuriH'd  to  Cuba,  and  havo  not  btH>n  r(>plai'i'(l  by  any  corrospoTidiiif? 
induHtriul  class. 

Like  that  of  Annobor.,  the  trade  of  Feniando-l'o  is  in  the  liands  of  the  Knjjiish 
and  rortiijjnese  dealers.  But  this  trade  is  of  slijrht  itnportaneo,  and  has  even 
recently  diminished.  The  land  is  divided  into  lar^e  ('states,  and  cultivated  by 
Kroonien.  Hut  these  temporary  labourers,  having  often  been  maltreat«'d,  show 
great  reluctance  to  return  to  the  island,  and  at  times  the  planters  lack  th(>  hands 
required  to  harvest  their  crops. 

Santa- Imlwl,  the  Clarencv  Totni  of  the  English,  capital  and  oidy  town  in  the 
island,  forms  a  group  of  little  wooden  houses,  each  surrounded  by  its  verunduh, 
and  all  embowered  in  verdure.  The  terrace  on  which  the  town  is  built  develops 
a  level  plain  at  the  foot  of  green  hills  and  on  the  shore  of  u  well-sheltere<l  bay 
resembling  a  cinpie  or  semicircular  crater.  The  popidation  numlx>r(>d  a  little 
over  eleven  hundred  in  1S77,  of  whom  only  ninety-three  were  whites.  The  climate 
is  one  of  the  most  dreaded  in  the  equatorial  lands,  and  in  1862  a  fourth  of  the 
white  population,  ct  that  time  two  hundred  and  fifty  souls,  was  carried  off  by 
yellow  fever.  In  one  of  the  neighbouring  cemeteries  lie  the  remains  of  the 
explorer,  Richard  Lander.  Since  1859  Fernando-Po  possesses  a  health  resort,  the 
first  founded  by  the  whites  in  the  tropics.  This  is  the  village  of  liaxileh,  lying  at 
an  altitude  of  over  1,000  feet  a  little  to  the  south  of  Santa-Lsabel,  and  near  u  Bubi 
village.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  the  principal  cinchona  plantations  of  the 
island. 

Fernando-Po,  yielded  to  the  Spaniards  by  Portugal  in  1778,  was  soon  after 
abandoned  by  them  on  account  of  its  insalubrity,  liut  their  place  was  gradually 
taken  by  tlie  Knglish,  wituout,  however,  clainn'ng  possession  of  the  iNland,  and  in 
1827  Clarence  Town  became  one  of  their  cV  ief  stations  for  the  suppression  of  the 
slave  trade.  But  fearing  England  might  permanently  ainiex  the  island,  Spain 
resumed  possession  in  l84o.  A  small  garrison  occupies  the  forts,  sonu*  Spanish 
missionaries  are  engaged  in  evangelising  the  blacks,  and  political  offenders  are 
often  interned  in  the  island. 


n 


-^''i!^ 


.'«it#p\f*"-  t'imm'M 


•Ji;,'lish 
IS  i'vcn 
itcd  by 
1,  show 
liiinds 


;<  «»'^ 


CHAPTKR  IV. 

Noirrn  sKNj:<;AMniA:  skxeoal. 

(iKXKUAt,    SrUVKY. 

Ol'Tir  of  tile  Saliariiin  rcj^iou  tlii'  natural  f'rontior."  of  Sudan  are 
in<li*-atod  l)y  no  prociso  line,  hut  rather  hy  a  narrow  /one  skirtinjf 
the  north  hank  of  the  Scnefjal  and  of  the  Jolil)a  (Nijjer)  eastwards 
to  and  Iteyond  Tindtuktu.  (Fere  takes  jihice  th»'  transition  from 
the  dry  to  tlie  niiny  climate,  and  to  these  contrasts  eorres|M)nd 
others  in  the  as|)ect  of  the  huid,  of  its  Hora  and  fauna,  origin,  customs,  and 
institutions  of  its  inhaliitants.  Seiiefj^amhia  is  thus  well  d(>Kn(>d  northwanlshy  the 
valley  of  the  Senejral  and  the  scarp  of  the  plateaux  which  mark  the  jjeohi^ical 
frontier  of  the  Sahara. 

The  river  valley,  althouj^h  ]K>netratin^  not  more  than  (JOO  miles  inland,  con- 
stitutes one  of  the  characteristic  features  of  the  ctmtineiit.  Here  hej^ins  the  real 
Africa,  separated  hy  the  dest-rt  from  that  Mediterranean  Africa  which  forms  .'in 
internu'diale  re^fion  between  the  n<»rtheru  and  southern  sections  of  thc^'lobe.  The 
Senef,Ml  constitutes  an  ethnical  partin<;-liue  between  the  |{«'rbers  and  .\rabs  on  its 
ri}j;ht,  and  the  Ni^jritian  population  on  its  left  bank.  In  a  fjeneral  way  the  river 
may  be  said  to  mark  the  startin<;-point  of  the  transverse  line  which  runs 
between  the  d(  mains  of  the  brown  and  I)lack  races.  Here  two  distiiut  worlds  con- 
front each  other. 

Hut  towards  the  east  and  south  SciH'<rambia  has  no  precise  limits;  in  these 
directions  the  transitions  take  >l'ce  impercei)tibly,  while  the  geofj;ra])hical  features 
are  marked  I)y  no  strikinj;  contrasts.  The  water-parting  between  the  alllucnts  of 
the  fcienegal  and  Joliba  is  faint  and  uncertain,  the  traveller  jiassing  frcm  one 
fluvial  basin  to  the  other  without  detecting  any  change  in  the  aspect  of  the  land. 
( )n  the  other  hand,  the  ranges  and  groups  of  uplands  in  south  Seneganibia  continue 
to  develop  towards  the  sojith-east  as  far  as  Lil>eria  and  the  Ivory  Coast,  parallel  with 
the  continental  seaboard.  Nevertheless  a  certain  geographical  unity  is  presented 
by  the  ovul  sj)aue  comjirised  between  the  Atlantic,  the  Senegal,  the  Upper  Joliba,  the 
Uokellc,  and  the  plateau  separating  the  sources  of  the  tw.)  last-meutioned  streams 
The  whole  luud  may  here  be  wiid  to  be  grouped  round  *he  central  muss  of  the 


^feie 


120 


WEST  AFRICA. 


I! 


iv 


IVi 


Ftttu-Jalloii  hi^rhliindH,  whonco  tho  runniiifif  watrrH  flow  in  divcrpfont  1h><1h  towunlH 
the  eiicinlinji;  main  Htroanis.  Tlu'  wlinU'  n'jjinn,  to  wliich  in  itn  widi-st  si>uki>  may 
1)1'  j;iv»'ii  tiic  name  of  S«>ncj»aml»ia,  including  llu'  Saliarian  slope  of  the  Sencj^al, 
and  even  soini'  dried-up  hasiuM  slopiiij;  Hoiitliward,  has  a  total  an-a  ainjroximatt'ly 
eHtiniaU'd  at  '2H(),0(>()  nqmire  miles.  SulKcient  data  nro  Mill  laekinj;  to  j,'ive  any 
trustworthy  estimate  of  the  ])o]>ulation,  so  that  the  current  calculations  naturally 
present  the  greatest  discrepancies.  If  any  dependeiu-e  could  he  placed  on  tin* 
missionary  !)«•  IJarros'  com])utation  of  fourte»'n  millions,  we  should  have  a  pro- 
portion oF  tit'ty  to  the  s(piare  mile,  a  minimum  ratio  for  a  fertile  and  well-wate 'cd 
land,  where  the  hirth-rate  is  liif^h  and  where  the  j)iipulation  rapidly  increases  in 
times  of  pi 'ace.  Yet  the  data  su])pli<'d  hy  the  Kumpean  jjossessions.  taken  in  ccm- 
neetion  with  the  re])orts  of  the  most  conijM'tent  travellers,  would  seem  to  show 
that  the  actual  pojiulation  is  far  less  than  had  heen  conjectured  from  the  density 
of  the  vilhifjes  in  some  of  the  coast  districts,  falling  in  fact  to  considerahly  under 
three  milliims. 

Pkookkss  ok  Discovkuy. 

Over  five  eenttiries  have  passed  since  Kuro])eans  first  had  any  direct  or  hearsay 
knowledj,'e  of  Si-nepamhia.  A])art  fmm  the  I'eriplus  of  Ilanno,  J.  I^'errer's 
expedition  of  l;i4(),  in  search  of  the  "  river  of  gold,"  and  the  voyages  of  the  Dieppe 
navigators,  begun  in  1M(»4,  it  is  certain  that  through  their  friendly  relations  with 
Tunis  the  Venetians  were  already,  in  the  fifteenth  century,  ac(juainted  with  the 
name  of  Timbuktu  and  other  Sudaiu>se  towns.  On  the  ( 'ataionian  map  of  I'-il') 
are  figured  the  inhabited  lands  which  stretch  south  from  the  Sahara,  and  two 
names  especially  had  become  famous,  (jinyia  ((iineua,  (ihenni,  Oinea,  Ouinoye),  the 
city  rich  in  gold,  identified  by  most  geographers  with  Jennc,  and  the  "river  of 
g«)ld,"  which  is  tlu' Senegal.  To  reach  "  (Juinea  "  and  to  discover  the  river  of  g<)ld 
was  the  great  ambition  of  navigators  in  those  days,  llethencourt,  c()n(iueror  of  the 
eastern  Canaries,  liad  "the  intentiim  of  ojiening  the  route  to  the  river  of  gold" 
at  "one  hundred  and  fifty  French  leagues  from  the  Cape  of  Hugader."  ]5ut 
the  systematic  exploration  of  these  mysterious  lands  was  still  delayed  for  another 
half  century. 

In  14;{4  the  Portugneso  Gil  Eannes  at  last  pcnetriited  beyond  the  formidable 
reefs  of  Cape  15ojador,  and  in  I44;niis  eountrvman  Muno  Tristam  doubled  Capo 
IJlanco,  and  coasted  the  mainland  for  twenty-five  leagues  thence  southwards.  He 
brought  back  a  few  wretched  fishermeii  captured  on  the  Arguin  Islands,  and  the 
sight  of  these  slaves  sufficed  to  rekindle  the  zeal  of  the  shrewd  traders,  who  were 
beginning  to  reproach  Prince  Henry  for  the  costly  and  useless  expeditions  along 
the  Suhuriuu  coast.  Quite  a  little  fleet  sailed  from  Lago-^  in  1444  for  the  Arguin 
Archipelago,  and  its  operations  turned  out  greatly  to  the  ])rofit  of  the  shippers. 
"  It  pleased  God,  rewarder  of  good  deeds,  to  compensate  the  navigators  for  the 
many  hardships  undergone  iu  His  service,  and  to  award  them  at  last  some  triumph 
and  glory  for  their  sufferings,  and  compensation  for  their  outlays,  for  they  pos- 
sessed themselves  of  cue  hundred  uud  sixty-five  heads  of  men,  women,  and  children." 


;-^«SS»Js;'  '.-'■ 


.•i«ij!  v*S«( . 


:w^!^y 


± 


11! 


SKNWJAMIWA. 


121 


(Azurunir's  riironicle).  Rut  next  year  the  I'drtu^Micsi"  sIuvitn  \V(>r»'  less  I'.ntuuuto, 
for  (idiK.iilo  (If  Ciiilrii  Imv'.ijr  stniiidi'd  mi  ii  saiulhiiiik,  wun  Hudduuly  sft  upon  l»v 
tlin  mitivcs  and  iiiassativd  with  all  liis  t'ollowfis. 

Tlic  year  144-">  is  oiii'  (if  tin-  ^^lorioiis  datos  in  this  ccnlury  <.t  j^it'il  diMiiv»>rit'.'s. 
Tlic  niariiitT  Diui/  Dias,  Diuiz  I'Vruandi'z,  as  tlic  nanu"  is  varidiisiy  written  by 
fdntrinporarifs.  K'axin^  ht-liind  him  the  sandy  or  rocky  iSaharian  coasts,  saiU-d 
hcyond  thi-  first  clnnip  of  painis  on  tht>  strand  south  of  the  dosert,  unci  after 
l»assin<r  ihe  nioutli  of  tlu' Senej,''al,  douhU'd  the  extreme  \.estern  Iradland  of  this 
continent.  liy  tliis  discovery  of  ( 'ape  Verd  was  once  for  all  e:.i>h»V.l  the  Aris- 
totelian theory,  so  diseourajfiuff  for  previo\is  navigators,  that  the  solar  rays  must 
scorch  tliefjround  in  the  south  of  the  world,  and  render  impossihle  tlie  j,'ermination 
of  plants,  the  development  of  all  unimal  or  human  life.  Henceforth  the  analofjv 
of  the  climatic  c(tnditions  in  the  uorthera  and  southern  hemi.spheres  was  an 
established  truth. 

One  of  the  twenty-six  caravels  which  in  l44-'i  .sailed  from  I'ortuj^al  for  the 
African  coasts  discovered  the  mouth  of  tlio  "  Cauaj,'a,"  that,  river  of  gold  which 
was  ut  the  same  time  regarded  us  u  branch  of  the  Egyptian  Nile.  Next  year, 
Nuno  Tristam,  who  had  been  the  first  to  (h)uble  Cupe  IMaiuo,  penetrated  south  of 
the  island  now  bearing  his  nanu',  to  u  little  coast  stream,  where  he  was  suddenlv 
surrounde  1.  perisiiing  with  nearly  all  his  e(mipani(ms.  This  was  most  probublv  the 
river  afterwards  kiu)wn  as  the  Rio  Nuno,  or  Nunez.  Alvaro  Fernandez  puslied 
forward  the  same  year  to  the  neiglil)ourhood  of  Sierra  Leone,  which,  however,  was 
not  passed  for  sonu"  fifteen  years  later.  In  three  years  all  the  Senegambian  coast 
had  been  exph)red  aiul  most  of  the  estuaries  surveyed  ;  but  the  slave-hunting 
jiractices  rendered  all  exjjeditions  to  the  interior  extremely  dangerous.  Neverthe- 
less regular  commercial  relations  were  at  lust  established  at  certain  points,  factories 
and  forts  sprang  up  on  favourable  sites,  and  from  th(>  beginning  of  the  fifteenth 
century  the  Portuguese,  penetrating  north  of  the  Senegal  into  Adrar,  bean 
to  trade  with  the  people  of  Wadan,  4'^()  miles  east  of  their  station  at  Arguin. 

From  the  seventeenth  century  the  Dutch,  Knglish,  and  French  contended  with 
the  first  coiupierors  for  the  possession  of  the  Senegambian  coast,  and  traders  of  these 
nationalities  pushed  into  the  interior  of  the  continent.  But  geographical  explora- 
tion, properly  so  called,  first  began  with  Andr(''  Uriie,  director  of  the  "  French 
(\>mpany  in  Senegal,"  at  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  and  commencement  of  the 
eighteenth  century.  He  penetrated  into  the  region  of  the  Upper  Senegal  above 
the  confluence  of  the  Fah'rae,  and  sent  several  explorers  into  the  riverain  districts 
along  the  main  stream.  The  monk  ApoUinaire  visited  the  gold  country  in 
liambuk,  which  was  traversed  in  all  directions  by  Compagnon.  The  map  prepared 
by  him  and  published  in  Ijabat's  work  contains  some  details  which  have  not  vet 
been  verified  by  any  modirn  explorers. 

In  178()  Rubault  surveyed  the  thinly  peopled  tracts  between  the  Gambia  and 
the  northern  bend  of  the  Sciu^gal,  and  other  trips  were  made  into  the  basin  of  the 
Gambia.  Then  Mungo  Park,  charged  with  a  mission  of  discovery  by  the  London 
African  Association,  mother  of  all  contemporary  geographical  societies,  made  a 

72— AF 


FiSSfS" 


jiiii 


-*iii 


i*'i 


liil 


122  WEST  AFliICA, 

first  expedition  in   1795  frnin  the  coast    to    the    Xiger,    whence    he  returned    to 


-"I 


Q 

O 
&4 


o 


the  Gambia  with  a  trading  caravan.     In   1818  Mollieu   first  reached  the  central 


iHli 


7^:3^7  u'-m^'v  T:>M'^^^mmmmm^^m^- 


nrt^'f"'^ 


SENEOAMinA. 


128 


turned    to 


ffM 


111 


,r:M 


he  central 


mass  of  the  Futa-Jallou  liifjliLnuls,  whence  the  waters  flow  east  to  tlie  Niger, 
north  to  the  Senejjal,  west  and  south  lo  the  Gambia,  Kio-Orande,  Soareies,  and 
Uokelle.  Since  this  memorabh^  jeurnoy  tlio  country  has  been  repoatedly  traversed, 
especially  by  French  naturalists,  military  and  naval  officers.  Wliile  llraouczec 
and  other  sailors  were  studying  the  estuaries  on  the  coast,  French  or  native  otHciaJs, 
such  as  Panet,  Aliun-Sal,  IJu-el-Moghdad,  Vincent,  Soleillet,  were  surveying  the 
steppes  north  of  the  Senegal,  and  connecting  with  theSaharian  oases,  and  even  with 
Murocco,  the  network  of  itineraries  in  Sencgambia.  About  the  same  time  Mugc 
and  (iuintin  were  pushing  eastwards  to  the  Niger  basin  and  advancing  in  the 
direction  of  Timbuktu. 

The  Gallieni  expedition  of  1880  formed  ii  fresh  point  of  departure  for  the 
extensive  geographical  studies  which  went  hand  in  hand  with  the  work  of  conquest 
between  the  Senegal  and  the  Niger.  Throughout  the  whole  region  connect iig 
Saint  Louis  on  the  coast  with  Bamaku  on  the  Joliba,  the  preliminary  explorations 
were  followed,  by  more  accurate  surveys  for  determining  the  relief  of  the  land,  and 
certain  sections  of  the  Senegal  are  now  figured  on  our  maps  with  the  same  fulness 
of  detail  as  the  European  countries.  As  in  Algeria,  Egypt,  the  Cape,  and  at  all 
points  of  the  seaboard  where  busy  European  communities  have  been  developed, 
science  is  slowly  but  surely  prosecuting  its  work  of  conquest, 

Thk  Futa-Jai.lon  Highlands. 

A  certain  geographical  unity  is  given  to  Sencgambia  by  tho  massive  Futa-Jallon 
highlands,  where  rise  the  headstrcams  of  the  Senegal,  Gambia,  Casamunza,  Gcba, 
Rio-Grande,  Nunoz,  I'ongo,  Scarcies,  which  diverge  thence  in  various  directions 
coastwards.  These  uplands  thus  constitute  one  of  the  salient  features  in  the 
formatnm  of  West  Africa,  and  it  is  not  perhaps  surprising  that  their  size  and 
importance  were  exaggerated  by  the  early  explorers.  Lambert,  who  visited  them 
in  18G0,  assigned  an  elevation  of  10,000  feet  to  the  Sun-du-Mali  (Sudumali),one  of 
the  loftiest  summits  near  the  centre  of  the  range.  lie  even  supposed  that  the 
highest  points,  reported  by  the  natives  to  be  snow-clad  during  the  wet  season, 
might  have  an  altitude  of  over  L'i.OOO  feet,  nearly  equal  to  that  of  the  Abyssinian 
Simen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  continent.  Ikit  Lambert  had  taken  no  accurate 
measurement,  and  ten  years  afterwards  Ilccquard  took  only  five  hours  to  ascend 
Mount  Aiaminia,  some  JiO  miles  west  of  the  Labo  plateau,  which  had  also  been 
described  as  exposed  to  "  white  rains,"  but  on  which  he  found  no  trace  of  snow. 
If  the  Futa-Jallon  hills  approached  the  altitudes  spoken  of  by  Lambert  their  crests 
would  be  visible  from  the  lower  Fuleme  and  middle  Gambia,  whence  at  a  distance 
of  90  miles  they  cannot  be  detected.  Nor  do  more  recent  travellers,  such  as  liayol, 
Noirot,  and  Ansaldi  mention  any  such  heights,  while  the  loftiest  pass  crossed  by 
Olivier  near  the  source  of  the  Kakrima  was  found  to  be  only  ;J,;}70  feet  high.  At 
the  village  of  Jiogama,  near  the  central  Sudumali  peak,  liayol  and  Noirot  reached  an 
altitude  of  4,(500  feet,  above  which  rose  other  crests,  which  according  to  the  extreme 
estimates  of  the  Portuguese  Sinioes  may  possibly  exceed  0,000  feet ;  but  in  any 
case  the  mean  elevation  cauuol  be  more  than  4,000  feet. 


i 


^S' '•:•■-'■' '"'^' 


I 

mm 


I 


124 


WEST  AFiaCA. 


This  liip^hliind  systoni,  which  bojyins  on  the  Sencfjal  in  the  Bondu  district,  does 
iii)t  appear  to  (h'vclop  a  rofruhir  chain  till  it  approaches  th(>  <i;reat  bond  of  the 
Gambia.  It  runs  mainly  in  the  direction  from  north  to  south,  with  a  slijrht 
eastern  d(>flection,  for  a  total  length  of  about  IHO  miles.  But  beyond  the  sources  of 
the  Senegalese  Bating  the  chain  is  continued  by  other  still  unexplored  mountains 
south-westwards  to  the  hills,  from  8,;")00  to  4, ■')()()  feet  high,  which  command  the 
sources  of  the  Niger.  In  Scnegambia  the  most  abrupt  slope  faces  eastwards  in  the 
direction  of  the  Gambia  and  Kalemc,  and  a  large  part  of  the  sj'stem  consists  of 
haowdls,  or  slightly  rolling  plateaux  strewn  with  scattered  boulders  and  broken  by 
steep  escarpments. 

Geologically,  Kuta-Jallon  forms  a  nucleu.s  of  crystalline  rocks  encircled  by  more 
recent  formations,  and  l)y  most  travellers  described  as  consisting  of  granites,  gneiss, 
and  "  primary  sandstones."  Northwards  and  north  eastwards  this  crystalline  and 
schistose  mass  is  continued  by  other  parallel  ridges,  such  as  the  Tambaura  of 
Bambuk,  where  almost  inaccessible  rocky  walls  rise  abi-uptly  about  the  surrounding 
verdant  plains,  and  the  heights  of  Kcnieba,  affecting  the  form  of  truncated  cones. 
The  secondary  ridg(>s  are  intersected  by  river  valleys,  whoso  sands  and  clays 
(contain  particles  of  gold  washed  from  the  primitive  rocks.  Through  this  auriferous 
alluvia  the  headst  reams  of  the  Senegal  have  excavated  their  convergent  beds. 
Between  the  Bating  and  the  Bakhoy,  the  two  main  forks  of  the  Senegal,  the  hills 
running  parallel  to  the  Niger  consist  of  horizontally  stratified  sandstones,  above 
which  crop  out  granite,  hornblende,  quart/,  and  feldspar  blocks  of  fantastic  shape. 
Even  north  of  the  Senegal  as  far  as  the  sands  of  the  desert,  the  lines  of  hills  and 
terraces  consist  of  sandstones  dating  from  the  same  epoch. 

In  Kaarta  the  Saharian  cliffs,  whence  flow  the  intermittent  affluents  of  the 
Senegal,  have  a  mean  height  of  from  1,000  to  1,070  feet,  and  the  hills  are  here 
formed  of  bluish  slaty  schists  overlain  with  deposits  of  laterite.  Farthei  west  the 
heighta  are  more  regularly  disposed  in  chains  running  mostly  in  the  direction  from 
north-east  to  south-west.  The  surface  looks  as  if  it  had  been  furrowed  by  a 
gigantic  plough,  leaving  between  the  trenches  parallel  ridges  with  their  steep  side 
facing  east  and  sloping  gently  westwards.  The  western  crest  of  Halip  Anaghim, 
forming  the  north-west  limit  of  the  Senegal  basin,  rises  to  a  height  of  l.^JoO  feet. 

West  of  the  Senegambian  gneiss  and  schists  follows  a  deposit  of  ferruginous 
sandstones  or  la  to  rites,  an  ochreous  mass  formed  by  the  disintegration  of  the  older 
rocks,  and  occupying  all  the  Senegambian  seaboard,  except  where  the  streams  and 
tides  have  deposited  their  alluvia.  Towards  the  west  these  ochi'cous  sandstones 
contain  a  continually  increasing  proportion  of  iron,  and  in  many  places  the  ground 
looks  as  if  it  were  covered  with  ferruginoua  refuse  like  the  neighbourhood  of  a 
smelting  furnace. 

The  SENEfiAMiUAN  Seahoard. 

The  Senegambian  seaboard  is  disposed  in  three  distinct  geological  sections,  the 
first  extending  from  Cape  Blanco  to  Cape  Vcrd,  the  second  from  Cape  Verd  to 
(Jape  lloxo  ('*  Red"),  the  third  thence  to  the  island  of  Sherbro.     Taken  as  a  whole 


^^^mW: 


^STIPST 


SENEGAMEIA. 


125 


the  curve  of  about  oOO  miles  developed  between  Capes  Blanco  and  Verd  eojistitutes 
a  separate  j^oolocrjcal  area,  t'rin<,'ed  north  and  south  of  tlie  Seiu'«ral  by  lofty  dunes, 
and  describiiif>  a  regular  arc  excei)t  in  the  north,  where  the  coastline,  eaten  away 
by  erosion,  is  now  replaced  by  a  sandbank,  over  which  the  surf  rolls  in  Imin- 
breakers.  Farther  south,  also,  the  alluvia  deposited  by  the  Senegal  lias  advanced 
beyond  the  norniid  shore-line,  forming  a  convex  segment  about  VJO  miles  lung, 
with  a  mean  breadth  of  some  1:2  miles.  Ihit  landwards,  behind  the  range  of  coast 
dunes,  the  same  geological  formations  everywhere  prevail.  IJoth  north  and  south 
of  the  Senegal,  towards  the  Sahara  as  well  as  towards  the  Gambia,  the  ground 
consists  of  ferruginous  laterite  deposits.  Even  the  two  extreme  capes,  Ulaneo  and 
Verd  ("White"  and  "Green"),  present  small  prominences  which  seem  to  date 
from  the  same  geological  epoch. 

The  section  of  the  seaboard  between  Capes  Verd  and  Roxo  develops  a  curve  of 
about  1G5  miles  with  its  concave  side  facing  eastwards.  The  original  shore-lino, 
as  revealed  by  the  tongues  of  sand  and  submerged  bars  at  the  river  mouths,  is 
extremely  regular,  although  deeply  indented  by  fhc  fluvial  estuaries,  whose  alluvia 
are  widely  spread  over  the  older  ferruginous  sandstone  deposits.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  third  section  between  Cajx?  Roxo  and  Sherbro  Island  has  lost  all  appear- 
ance of  regularity,  being  carved  by  the  waves  into  a  thousand  inlets  of  all  sizes,  or 
broken  into  islets  and  reefs,  now  strewn  over  the  neighbouring  waters.  But  in 
other  respects  this  southern  section  presents  the  same  alluvial  and  laterite  formations 
as  the  seaboard  north  of  Cape  Roxo. 

The  indented  parts  of  the  Senegnmbian  coast  lie  in  exactly  the  same  latitude 
as  the  Futa-Jallon  highlands,  and  between  the  two  formations  it  is  easy  to  detect  u 
relation  of  cause  and  effect.  The  streains  flowing  from  the  uplands  have  excavated 
the  valleys  and  to  some  extent  contributed  to  the  creation  of  the  marine  estuaries ; 
but  glacial  action  may  also  have  had  its  share  in  the  general  result.  Doubtless  the 
climate  is  now  very  different  from  that  which  nmst  have  jjrevailed  when  fro/en 
streams  were  slowly  descending  df)wn  to  the  Senegambian  plains;  but  m  this 
respect  the  African  seaboard  offers  precisely  the  same  conditions  as  those  of  Brazil 
and  New  Granada,  where  tiaces  of  glaciation  have  also  been  detected  by  Agassiz 
and  other  observers.  The  erratic  granite  boulders  occurring  on  the  sandstone 
plains  of  Sierra  Leone  can  scarcely  be  otherwise  accounted  for  ;  consequently  to  the 
action  of  glaciers  should  perhaps  be  largely  attributed  the  destruction  of  the 
Senegambian  seaboard,  causing  it  to  retire  some  GO  miles  inland. 


Poi.iTicAi.  ANO  Social  Re[.ations. 

Occupying  nearly  twelve  degrees  of  latitude,  and  rising  to  an  extreme  height 
of  over  0,000  feet,  Senegambia  naturally  presents  a  great  variety  of  plants  and 
anini  lis,  belonging,  however,  to  two  distinct  domains,  that  of  the  neighbouring 
Saharian  savannahs  and  that  of  the  great  Nigritian  forests.  Great  contrasts  are 
also  presented  by  its  inhabitants,  who  possess  neither  political  unity  nor  social 


•*;; 


*f^f 


If! 


IPiT« 


126 


WEST  AFRICA. 


1*^1  "^1 


cohcreiu'e.  They  belong  to  diverse  stocks,  broken  into  numerous  states,  kingdoms, 
centralised  or  t'odorul  republic's,  religious  comnumities,  nomatl  tribes,  scattered 
family  groups.     The  central  Futa-Jallon  highlands  are  occupied  chiefly  by  Fuluhs, 

Fifjc.  47. — Geolooicai.  JtAP  of  Seneoamhia. 
Scale  1 :  13,000,000. 


Granite  aud 
UneiBs. 


ScbiatH  uud 
Slates. 


fnirniiMiiii 
liitiiiiiiiiiii 

luUiiiuiiii 

Secondiiry 
Formations. 


Auriferous  Saline 

Sands.  Deposits. 


Latcrite.        Sands  aud  Dunes,        Alluvium.         Voloanio  Rockg. 

.^— — — _— —  180  Miles. 


a  swarthy  race  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Negroes  proper.     Round  about  them, 
on  the  sea-coast  and  on  the  upper  affluents  of  the  Senegal  and  Gambia,  dwell 


rOIJTICAL  AND  SOCIAL  liKTATIONR. 


127 


nuincrous  Nigritian  tribes,  while  more  or  loss  mixed  JUrber  groups  roimi  over 
the  tracts  to  tho  north  of  the  Senegal. 

Intereourse  with  the  Kiiropeaii  traders  has  created  new  centres  of  attraclion  for 
these  various  peoples,  thus  inodifving  their  social  aggri-gates  and  alliances.  The 
West  Kuropean  States,  influenced  by  the  interests  of  their  res])ective  subjects, 
have  moreover  forcibly  occupied  or  secured  by  treaty  and  purchase  the  districts 
bordering  on  the  central  markets.  Thu>  Portugal,  the  first  to  arrive  a.s  a 
conqueror,  possesses  the  liissages  archipelago  and  a  part  <  f  the  adjacent  coast,  a 
nu>re  fragment  of  ii  domain  which  once  stretclied  away  to  the  boundless  regions  of 
Sudan.  Knglaud  has  established  her  trading  stations  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gand)ia, 
and  in  s(>veral  other  places  in  that  basin.  But  France  has  annexed  a  far  more 
extensive  territory,  embracing  all  the  coast  from  t'ape  IJlanco  to  the  river  Salum, 
a  stretch  of  450  miles,  and  the  fluvial  zone  extending  for  IjO  miles  between  the 
Nunez  and  the  ]\[allecory  rivers.  Between  these  two  great  coast  regions  the 
basin  of  the  Casamanza  forms  an  enclave  also  assigned  to  France,  while  in  the 
interior  the  possessions  of  the  same  power  stretch  from  Cape  Verd  in  a  straight 
line  for  ovi-r  (500  miles  eastwards  beyond  the  sources  of  the  Senegal  right  a\\  ay 
to  the  Niger.  Ijastly,  in  virtue  of  a  treaty  recently  concluded  with  I'ortugal,  the 
Futa-Jalhm  highhmds  have  been,  if  not  annexed  at  least  declared  a  French 
protectorate.  In  the  same  way,  by  agreement  with  Great  liiitain  the  Upper 
Joliba  basin  has  been  reserved  as  a  field  for  the  future  expansion  of  French 
political  influences. 

But  these  are  mere  outward  political  changes,  and  although  many  writers  still 
regard  the  Negroes  as  an  immovable  race  incapable  of  progress  or  improvement, 
great  revolutions  have  already  taken  place,  profoundly  modifying  their  social 
condition.  The  gradual  spread  of  the  conquering  races  from  east  to  west  has 
been  continued,  the  Mendingoes  encroaching  on  the  coast  populations,  while  the 
Fulahs  have  already  reached  the  marine  estuaries.  The  Mussulman  propaganda 
accompanies  and  even  precedes  these  ethnical  displacements,  and  many  indepen- 
dent black  communities  have  already  adopted  Islam,  Avhich  however  in  most  castas 
acquires  a  mystic  character  more  vague,  less  dogmatic  and  less  rigid  than  amongst 
the  Arabs. 

Usages  and  industries  also  become  modified  through  the  displacements,  inter- 
minglings  of  races,  fresh  political  combinations  and  religious  conversions.  And 
while  these  great  changes  are  progressing  in  the  interior,  the  foreign  traders 
established  on  the  seaboard  act  as  u  counterpoise  to  the  westward  movement  of  the 
Maudingoes  and  Fulahs,  and  constantly  acquire  greater  influence  through  their 
expanding  commercial  relations.  The  object  of  their  traffic  has  also  changed. 
They  no  longer  purchase  man  himself,  as  they  had  done  for  nearly  four  hundred 
years,  but  rather  the  fruits  of  his  industry ;  and  with  the  suppression  of  the  slave 
trade  the  incessant  intertribal  wars  caused  by  it  are  gradually  coming  to  an  end. 

Thus  this  great  event  is  of  vast  importance  in  the  renovation  of  Africa.  But 
although  whites  and  blacks  no  longer  mutually  consider  each  other  us  anthropo- 
phagists,  the  responsibility  for  the  horrors  committed  remains  unefl'aced.     If  men 


'  Mi 


'"  I 


128 


WEST  AFIUCA. 


i        ! 


•Itf** 


are  no  lonp^or  (Hioctly  imicliasod,  the  Kuntpcan  dealers  eoiitinue  the  work  of  moral 
di'fjrndat ion.  Wliilo  rei)roaeliin<j;  the  Nejjro  populations  uilh  cruelty  they  ineite 
ihem  to  war;  wliile  eoniplaininj^  of  their  intenqx'rate,  depraved,  f>r  indolent  hahits. 
they  persist  in  supplyin<>;  them  with  fiery  aleoholie  drinks.  Tlie  real  value  of 
Kuro]>ean  itiflueneeR  is  not  to  he  estimated  hy  floiirishinp  trade  returns.  The 
natives  in  sharing  their  land  with  the  stranj»er  have  a  ri<,'ht  to  demand  in  return 
the  suhstantial  henefit  of  increased  moral  and  intellcctuul  well-heing  us  well  us 
mere  matoriul  ])rogrcs8. 

SkX1;0.\I,    B,\SIN    and    FtTA-jAl.l.OX. 

The  regions  either  directly  administered  hy  France,  or  in  which  her  military 
ascendancy  is  uncontested,  may  he  roughly  estimated  at  "20((,()00  square  miles,  or 
very  nearly  the  area  of  France  itself.  The  term  8enegul,  hy  which  French  Sene- 
gaml)ia  was  until  recently  desigiuited,  has  naturally  heen  replaced  hy  the  more 
comprehensive  expression,  French  Sudan.  The  former  name,  however,  is  still 
reserved  for  the  territory  skirting  the  navigahle  i)art  of  the  river  between  Saint- 
Louis  and  Medina.  At  the  same  time  to  this  great  artery  the  whole  region 
undouhtedly  owes  its  geographical  unity,  just  as  from  its  name,  combined  with 
that  of  the  Gambia  (Senegal-Gambia),  it  takes  its  general  designation  of  Sene- 
gamhia. 

The  Senegal  is  the  first  perennial  stream  which  reaches  the  south  coast  of  the 
Saharian  wastes.  Between  its  mouth  and  that  of  the  Um-er-llbia  the  last  per- 
manent Maroccan  river,  the  distance  in  a  bee-line  is  no  less  than  1,;J20  miles,  and 
1,800  including  the  indentations  along  the  coastline.  Throughout  its  course  and 
that  of  its  numerous  tributaries  the  Senegal  indicates  the  northern  limit  of  the 
/one  of  abundant  periodical  rains.  Its  bed  prolongs  westwards  the  winding  line 
of  running  waters  formed  eastwards  by  the  Niger,  the  Tsad  affluents,  and  the  great 
tributaries  of  the  Nile — the  Bahr-el-Arab  and  IJahr-el-Azraq.  It  was  possibly 
owing  to  a  vague  idea  of  this  geographical  fact  that,  down  to  the  last  century, 
mention  was  at  all  times  made  of  a  Nile  with  many  mouths  traversing  the  whole  of 
Africa.  According  to  the  traveller  Cadamosto  the  "  Senega  "  is  at  once  the  Gihon, 
"  river  of  the  earthly  paradise,"  the  Niger,  and  the  Nile. 

In  the  extent  of  its  basin  the  Senegal  ranks  only  as  a  sacondary  African 
river,  being  inferior  not  only  to  the  Congo,  Nile,  Joliba,  and  Zambesi,  but  according 
to  some  approximate  estimates,  even  to  the  Limpopo,  Orange,  and  Juba.  But 
great  discrepancies  prevail  on  this  point ;  and  while  Chavanne  calculates  the  Senegal 
at  17(i,0U0  stpuire  miles,  Von  Kloden  reduces  it  to  little  over  10:{,000  square  miles. 
These  discrepancies  are  due  to  tlie  fact  that  the  Saharian  slope  of  the  river  has  not 
yet  been  aceurately  surveyed,  and  that  some  include  this  region  of  intermittent 
wadies  in  the  Senegal  basin,  while  others  bring  it  within  the  zone  of  inland  drain- 
age. Acct)rding  to  the  former  view  the  Senegal  nmst  have  in  any  case  an  area  of 
145,01)0  stiuirc  milos,  or  very  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  whole  of  France.  From  the 
source  of  the  Hating  to  the  bar  at  its  mouth,  the  total  length  is  as  nearly  as  possible 
1,000  miles,  but  as  the  bird  flies  not  more  than  170  miles. 


[)rk  of  inoriil 
thi'V  incite 
f)lent  liubits, 
Jill  viiliio  of 
urns.  Tlie 
1(1  in  return 
J  us  well  us 


ler  military 
ire  miles,  or 
rencli  Sene- 
jy  the  more 
3ver,  is  still 
ween  Saint- 
hole  region 
nbined  with 
on  of  Sene- 

eoast  of  the 
be  last  per- 
0  miles,  and 
course  and 
limit  of  the 
winding  line 
nd  the  great 
vas  possibly 
ast  century, 
the  whole  of 
e  the  Gihon, 

iry  African 
ut  according 
Juba.  But 
\  the  Senegal 
quare  miles, 
iver  has  not 
intermittent 
nUuid  draiii- 
e  an  area  of 
.  From  the 
.y  as  possible 


THE   LOWER  SEN 


0    to    32  f*         3Z    to     e4f       64  tjo    m 


MmK 


■NEW  VORK.  r    Al^PI.ETON 


^T" 


PHE   LOWER  SENEGAL. 


NEW  YORK,  r    APPLETON  8e  C9 


^ 


^/i'ii 


("•^i^ii 


til! 


Iin^ 


T! 


SUNEO.VL  n.VSIX  AM)  FIITA-J.VLLON.  120 

Tho  farthest  houd«truam,  ijhiujj  within  u  few  miles  ol'  the  left  bunk   of    the 


Kigcr,  takes  tho  n:in»o  of  Buule,  which,  however,  changes  incessantly  according  to 


ffl 


!• 


!i 


"■■  W^^'^W^r'^^^^  -"i^'X  '.vj 


180 


WKST  Al'lUrA. 


tho  couiitries  it  triivcrsos  and  tlio  jiojnilation  r('si(liuf»  nii  its  banks.  I5(>low  the 
liilly  <li^*tiM<  t  wlicrc  it  has  itssounr,  it  waters  the  littlo-known  I{«''li''-l)ugii  territory, 
boyond  wliich  it  tn-nds  westwards,  lien-  fdriniiij;  the  iMirdcr-lino  bctwoon  the  Kri-nch 
possessions  and  Kuarta.  In  this  section  of  itH  course  it  receives  but  few  and  slij^ht 
contributions  front  the  northern  or  Suliiirian  slope  ;  but  from  the  south  it  is  j<iined  by 
some  copious  streams,  such  I's  tlie  Kakhoy,  v\  liieii  ^:ives  its  name  to  tlie  main  stream 
bch)w  t]u»  junction,  and  which  by  itscontluence  with  the  Ilatinjj;  forms  the  Senetral, 
properly  so  culled.      IJafulab*',  or  the  "  Two  IJivers,"  is  the  local  Malinke  name  uf 


•^V^' 


i>l!i 


Fig.  49.— The  Feut  Falls. 

Kcile  1     Oil,i>iiO. 


iras' 


West  of  Greenwich 


2,200  Tarda. 


this  confluence  of  the  Bakhoy,  or  "  White,"  with  the  Bafing,  or  "  Black  "  river ; 
the  designation  Maio-Rcio  given  to  it  by  the  Fulahs  and  Toucouleurs,  has  the  same 
meaning. 

The  Bafing  rises  at  an  elevation  of  2,500  feet  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Futa- 
Jallun  highlands,  south  of  the  sources  of  the  Faleme,  Gambia,  and  Rio-Grande. 
Aft^r  flowing  some  distance  southwards  it  describes  a  great  curve  to  the  east, 
north-east,  and  north,  thus  forming  a  semi-ellipse  with  the  lower  course  of  the 
Senegal.  Having  a  very  steep  incline  between  its  source  and  the  Bakhoy  confluence, 
and  receiving  no  rainwater  for  nine  months  in  the  year,  the  Bafing  would  cease  to 


■..-^.risi'-- 


^^^J^:0ilM^^^M^4XmA^§i^^s^^^^i; 


THE  SENEOAL  UASIN. 


181 


fliiw  ill  llu'  dry  wiison,  but  for  the  imtunil  barriers  dividiiij;  its  niiirs(>  into  ii  scrien 
of  basins  with  tin  uhn>)st  iniiM'rrcptiblc  curront  botwron  the  periods  cif  Inirli  wtifcr. 
Durinjj  tlif  rainy  winter  wuhou  the  stream  passes  by  so  many  rapids  troni  led^ic  to 
iedp'  of  these  (buns,  which  are  aj^ain  exposed  in  the  rainU'ss  montlis. 

At  the  eonflui'iice  of  the  Maklioy  and  IbiHn<;,  tlie  Senej;id  is  still  170  feet  above 
seu-level,  and  its  bed  beinjj  eontiiied  between  btnks  Ironi  !()((  to  I'JO  b-et  liijrli,  the 
stream  rushes  from  rapid  to  rapid,  at  that  of  (Juina  falling  in  a  sin<,de  plun},'e  from 
a  height  of  over  oO  f(>et  with  a  mean  breadth  of  1,(1(10  fint.  The  Felu  Falls,  the 
lust  of  the  series,  are  of  the  sumo  Ijeight,  but  here  the  river  is  much  more  contracted. 
At  the  foot  of  the  cataract  it  roaches  a  level  of  2'-i0  feet  above  the  sea,  froin  which 
it  is  still  distant  some  000  miles.  Hence,  the  mean  incline  is  here  very  slight,  so 
that  during  the  seasoji  of  higli  water  large  cruft  are  able  to  ascend  as  fur  as  the 
falls. 

A  little  farther  down  the  Senegal  receives  its  chief  northern  affluent,  the 
Kuniakari,  or  Tarakole,  which  has  a  total  length  of  at  least  1::20  miles.  JJut  the 
contributions  of  this  feeble  Sahariau  tributary  are  as  nothing  to  those  of  the 
Fideine,  which  joins  the  main  stream  lower  down  i;fter  eollecfing  the  copious  waters 
of  the  Futa-Jallon  uplands.  Ki  ing  lunir  the  Hati;  g  and  Gambia,  the  Falenie  sends 
down  a  little  water  even  in  the  Iry  serson,  w\ile  in  winter  it  is  no  less  than  1,000 
feet  broad  and  20  feet  deep  at  the  cuiflueiHo.  It  might  bo  navigated  for  some 
hundred  miles  by  snuiU  craft,  but  its  i-nper  basin,  unbealthy  and  frequently 
wasted  by  wars,  has  been  very  little  explored,  comj  ising  tlie  least  known  part  of 
French  Sudan. 

Ih'low  the  Faleme  junction  the  Sonecfil  receives  no  moi.  perennial  tributaries, 
for  it  hero  flows  north-west  beyond  the  icguu  of  copious  raias,  and  pouotratos  into 
the  zone  of  transition  between  Sudan  an.i  the  desert  projier.  Several  of  the  inter- 
mittent Saharian  wadies  run  out  in  saline  marshes,  which  in  a  drier  cuaute  would 
be  converted  into  suit-pans  like  those  of  Iji!  and  other  parts  of  the  desert. 

During  the  dry  season  the  volume  of  tlic  main  stream  gradually  diminishes, 
developing  long  meanders  and  winding  '.\;ggishly  round  numerous  islands,  such  as 
the  long  alluvial  land  of  Bilbas,  and  the  island  at  Morfil,  or  "  Ivory,"  so  called 
from  the  elephants  which  formerly  frequented  it.  The  river  bed  is  intersected  at 
intervals  by  several  rocky  ledges,  none  of  which,  however,  is  high  enough  to  com- 
pletely arrest  the  stream.  But  at  low  water  boats  have  great  diffii;ulty  in  forcing 
the  pussuge,  and  the  river-^'n  populations  ure  able  to  ford  the  current  at  many  points. 
In  the  lower  reaches  small  '  Muers  can  always  ascend  as  fur  as  Mafu  above  Podor, 
210  miles  from  the  sea ;  but  this  is  due  to  the  tides,  which  convert  the  lower  course 
of  the  Senegal  into  a  umrine  estuary.  The  discharge  during  the  dry  season  is 
estimated  at  not  moie  than  1 ,700  cubic  feet  per  second. 

The  great  ruins,  which  begin  in  May  on  the  Futa-Jallon  highlands,  change  the 
whole  character  of  the  river.  The  water  rises  rapidly,  and  from  June  to  October 
large  s; earners  ascend  to  the  foot  of  the  Felu  Falls.  At  Bakel  the  floods  rise  50 
feet  and  upwards,  at  Matam  30  to  .'34,  at  Podor  20,  a^  Dagana  little  more  than  14, 
the  inundations  thus  diminishing  as  they  approach  th    sea.     But  at  this  season  the 


H,t 


»< 


I  tq 


I 


182 


WEST  AFIilCA. 


*\"< 


' 


91 


force  of  the  current  stems  the  tidal  .stream,  so  that  the  water  is  quite  fresh  at  Saint 
Louis,  and  oven  ])enotrates  into  the  sea,  where  it  may  be  distinguished  by  its 
yeHowish  C()h)in-  amid  the  liquid  blue  of  the  surrounding  ocean.  At  this  season 
the  discharge  is  certainly  several  thousand  cubit;  yards  jjcr  second,  for  tlu;  stream 
not  only  fills  tlie  broad  and  di'cp  Huvial  bed,  but  al.-^o  overflows  both  banks,  flooding 
numerous  lateral  lagoons,  or  "  false  rivers,"  which  mark  the  cour.se  of  former 
channels.  The  inundations  even  attain  an  exceptional  developnu'iit  about  every  four 
years,  when  in  its  lower  course  the  river  assumes  the  aspect  of  a  great  inland  sea 
from  12  to  {•)  miles  wide. 

Towards  its  mouth  the  Senegal  ramifies  to  the  right  and  left  into  numerous 
channels  or  tortuous  lagoons,  here  called  "  nuirigots,"  a  term  also  wrongly  applied 
to  the  permanent  tributaries  and  to  the  brackish  lacustrine  basins  on  the  coasts. 
During  the  floods  these  lagoons  serve  to  relieve  the  overflow,  which  in  the  dry 
season  is  here  husbanded  as  if  in  artificial  reservoirs.      The  two  largest  of  these  side 


Fig.  iiO.— Floods  or  the  SeneoaIi. 


mm  1 


'^i^i-  ■ 


ApTil     Mf»v     .Tune     July     Aus.      Sppt.      Oct.     Nov.     Deo.       Jan.       Feb.    Mardi 


46 


42 

89 

, *.  -  i. 

36 

^ 

83 

30 

. . , ;. 

27 

24 

21 

: 

18 

f 

16 

12 

^..  — 

9 

6 

t : ■. 

" 

: \;^ 

lagoons  are  disposed  on  the  right  and  li-ft  near  the  point  where  the  Senegal  bends 
southwards  to  skirt  the  coast  dunes.  The  Caj'ar  or  Khornak  basin  on  the  north  or 
right  bank  is  some  12  miles  long,  with  three  outlets  to  the  main  stream ;  while  the 
southern,  variously  known  as  the  Guier,  I'aiiieful,  or  JVlerinaghen  Lake,  occupies 
with  its  affluent,  the  Bilnun,  a  winding  valley  about  90  miles  in  length.  Even  in 
the  dry  season  this  navigable  basin  retains  some  water,  which  attracts  wild  animals 
from  all  directions. 

The  Senegal  Delta. 

The  delta,  some  GOO  square  miles  in  extent,  forms  a  labyrinth  of  i.slands,  islets, 
and  marshy  banks,  separated  by  streams,  channels,  and  stagnant  waters,  changing 
their  form  and  depth  with  every  inundation.  The  whole  of  this  low-lying  tract, 
half  lacustrine  during  the  period  of  floods,  is  sharply  limited  westwards  by  a 


THE  SENEGAL  DELTA, 


133 


Fig.  ')\.  — Baiih  op  TiiK  Kenkiial 

FKOM    18'2.)   TO    1S«4. 
Soile  1  :  300,01^. 


16° 


surprisingly  regular  line  of  sands,  the  so-culled  "  Liinguo  do  Barbaric,"  which 
has  a  mean  breadtli  of  from  400  to  4">0  yards,  and  which  is  strewn  with 
little  dunes  from  1-j  to  20  feet  high. 

IJeing  constantly  exposed  on  one  side  to  the 
fury  of  the  surf,  on  the  other  to  the  pressure  of 
the  tluvial  overflow,  this  sandy  dyke  yiehls  now 
ut  one  point  now  at  another,  again  repairing  the 
breach  with  the  alluvial  matter  here  arrested  by 
the  opposing  fluvial  and  marine  forces.  The  curve 
of  the  shore-line  bears  wiiness  to  the  ceaseless 
encroachment  on  the  sea  which  has  been  going 
on  for  ages.  Tlie  sedimentary  matter  already 
deposited  beyond  the  normal  coastline,  and  rising 
above  the  surface,  covers  an  area  of  at  least  1,000 
square  miles,  and  the  range  of  dunes  which  at  one 
time  developed  a  regular  concave  curve  between 
Capes  Mirik  and  Verd  now  bulges  out  some  12 
miles  seawards.  Off  the  delta  the  waters  are  also 
much  shallower  than  elsewhere  along  the  coast, 
80  that  the  oO-fathom  line,  running  within  2 
miles  of  Cape  Verd,  is  deflected  to  18  or  20  miles 
off  the  mouth  of  the  Senegal. 

During  the  present  period  the  bar  at  the 
entrance  of  the  river  has  constantly  changed  its 
form  and  position.  For  a  stretch  of  Vi  miles 
below  Saint-Louis,  the,  breach  in  the  sandy  dyke 
has  continuall}'^  shifted  up  and  down,  according 
to  the  abundance  of  the  fluvial  discharge,  the 
force  and  direction  of  the  fluvial  and  marine 
currents,  and  of  the  winds  and  surf.  Usually  the 
bar  is  slowly  displaced  southwards,  owing  to 
the  gradual  extension  of  the  sandy  dyke  formed 
by  the  combined  action  of  the  parallel  marine 
and  fluvial  currents,  both  trending  in  the  same 
direction,  liut  as  it  gains  in  length,  this  narrow 
tongue  becomes  more  exposed  to  the  pressure  of 
the  river,  yielding  sooner  or  later  at  some  weak 
point.  It  happens  at  tiiros  that  the  sill  breaks 
into  eight  or  ten  distinct  channels  ;  but  these 
openings  are  soon  filled  up  by  the  action  of  the 

two  confli^-ting  currents,  leaving  only  a  single  passage,  through  which  the  lighter 
fresh  water  spreads  over  the  marine  surface,  while  the  heavier  salt  water  penetrates 
up  the  river-bed.  In  1825  the  bar  nearly  faced  Qandiole,  8  miles  south  of  Saint- 
Louis  ;  in  1851  it  had  shifted  still  farther  south,  almost  to  the  southern  extremity 


16°53 


0  to  32 
Feet. 


Deptlis. 


32  to  64 
Feet. 


m  Fei't  mid 
upwards. 

6  Miles. 


I 


i: 


It 


p 


7, 


J?^;P|a^' 


134 


WEST  AFKICA. 


*\^i 


«i     ;l 


m ' 


of  the  (lyko.  But  five  years  aftenvards  it  had  returned  to  Caniol  Point,  close  to 
Saint-Tiouis,  in  1<S()4  rctreatinjj;  over  *J, ()(»(>  yards  southwards,  and  in  1I^S4  again 
retiring  to  a  point  south  of  Giindiole.  The  depth  of  the  channel  seldom  exceeds 
1-i  or  14,  and  seldom  falls  below  H  feet,  being  shallowest  from  jN'ovember  to 
February,  and  deepest  in  April  and  ]May,  at  the  end  of  the  dry  season. 

The  depth  is  intTcascd  0  or  7  feet  by  the  tides ;  but  in  rough  weather  the  bar 
is  almost  inaccessible  to  shipping,  which  has  at  tinies  to  wait  for  weeks  either  off 
the  roadstead  or  within  the  port  of  Saint- liOuis.  To  obviate  this  and  other 
inconvenience's  it  has  been  })roposed  to  create  a  permanent  channel  by  means  of  a 
curved  pier  forming  a  contiimation  of  the  left  bank  of  the  river. 

North  of  the  Senegal  there  are  no  perennial  rivers  in  the  territory  politically 
assigned  to  France.  Nor  are  there  now  any  streams  for  a  stretch  of  ISO  miles 
south  of  the  bar,  until  the  Salum  is  reached.  But  according  to  a  well-founded 
local  tradition,  the  Senegal  itself  seems  to  have  formerly  continued  its  southern 
course  parallel  with  the  coast  under  the  shelter  of  the  Cayor  dunes  as  far  as  the 
Bay  of  Dakar,  below  Cape  Yerd.  According  to  Wendling's  recent  observations 
the  Cayor  formations  appear  to  have  been  originally  fluvial  deposits,  which 
became  attached  to  the  islet  of  Dakar,  and  were  afterwards  covered  by  marine 
sands.  South  of  Cape  Verd  the  shore-line  curves  round  towards  the  south-cast, 
thus  describing  an  arc  corresponding  to  that  of  the  Cayor  dunes.  Here  a  few 
strtmmlets  reach  the  coast ;  but  north  of  the  Gambia  the  seaboard  is  broken  only 
by  the  large  island- studded  estuary,  which  is  sheltered  from  the  sea  by  the  long 
peninsida  terminating  at  Point  Sangomar,  and  which  towards  the  north-east 
mingles  its  waters  with  those  of  the  Salum,  a  coast-stream  navigable  for  some  GO 
miles. 

Climate  of  the  Senegal  Basin.  ' 

The  Senegal  year  is  divided  into  two  periods  of  nearly  equal  length,  the  dry 
season,  answering  to  the  summer  of  the  southern  hemisphere,  from  the  end  of 
November  to  the  beginning  of  June,  and  the  wet,  which  is  also  the  hottest,  for 
the  rest  of  the  year.  During  the  former  the  trade  winds  prevail,  occasionally 
interrupted  near  the  sea  by  local  breezes  blowing  from  the  north-west  and  west. 
Thanks  to  these  atmospheric  currents  and  to  the  cool  marine  current  setting  from 
the  north,  the  temperature  is  relatively  moderate  along  the  seaboard,  oscillating  at 
Saint-Louis  and  at  Gorec  round  a  mean  of  from  08"^  to  70"  F.  But  in  the 
interior  this  dry  treason  is  again  divi  >d  into  two  periods  corresponding  somewhat 
to  the  winter  and  spring  in  Europe.  The  winter,  if  not  cool,  is  at  least  almost 
temperate  (77"  I.;;  but  in  the  spring,  when  the  hot  east  Saharian  winds  pre- 
dominate, the  glass  stands  normally  at  00'^  F. 

The  changes  from  season  to  season  are  usually  ushered  in  by  the  "  tornadoes," 
small  local  cyclones,  generally  lasting  from  fifteen  minutes  to  an  hour,  and  nearly 
always  wheeling  from  the  south-eiist  and  east  round  to  the  north  and  west, 
reversing  the  direction  of  the  normal  wind.  They  are  violent  gales  which,  when 
unaccompanied  by  rain,  may  even  become  dangerous. 


1il|^ 


^v 


FI.OIIA  OF  SENEGAL. 


185 


During  the  four  months  from  July  to  October  incUisive,  when  the  "  hivor- 
nfi<je  "  or  rainy  season  is  at  its  lieig-ht,  the  prevailing  winds  iire  weak  and  variable, 
tlie  mean  temperature  (SO*-'  V.)  is  very  ecmstant,  and  tlie  air  saturated  witli 
moisture,  liains  and  thunderstorms  are  frccpient,  the  river  overflows,  the  swampy 
tracts  are  Hooded.  Although  the  same  conditions  prevail  everywhere,  the  rains 
begiii  somewliat  earlier  in  the  interior  tlian  on  the  coast,  and  the  season  lasts 
!  Mu'derably  longer  at  Gorec  than  at  Saint-Louis.  Tlie  humidity  is  on  the  whole 
c  iisiderably  less  than  in  most  other  tropical  regions,  and  Saint-Louis  has  on  an 
average  scarcely  more  than  thirty  rainy  days  with  an  annual  rainfall  of  less  than 
20  inches.  In  the  interior  lying  farther  south,  and  at  Goree,  the  proportion 
appears  to  be  somewhat  higher,  and  at  Kita  there  was  a  rainfall  of  over  •")()  inches 
in  1882.  Hail,  almost  unknown  elsewhere  in  the  tropics,  is  not  rare  in  Kaarla, 
where  "  hard  water,"  as  it  is  called,  is  regarded  as  a  valuable  medicine. 

Flora. 

Lying  on  the  frontier  of  the  Saharian  and  Sudanese  zones,  French  Senegambia 
resembles  both  these  regions  in  its  flora.  The  northern  vegetation  is  allied  to  that 
of  the  neighbouring  Saharian  steppes,  while  the  southern  assumes  a  more  tropical 
aspect,  the  variety  of  forms  increasing  in  the  direction  of  the  equator.  Although 
some  species  are  peculiar  to  Senegambia,  this  region  is  far  from  presenting  the 
same  diveisity  as  other  tropical  lands.  During  live  years  of  exploration,  Leprieur 
and  Perrottet  collected  only  sixteen  hundred  species,  a  very  small  number 
compared  with  the  exuberance  of  the  Indian,  Australian,  and  South  American 
floras.  Some  extensive  tracts  are  occupied  by  a  few  graminaceaj  to  the  exclusion 
of  all  other  forms.  These  are  tired  by  the  herdsmen  in  the  dry  season,  and  the 
conflagrations  caused  by  them  prevent  the  development  of  large  forest  growths. 

As  in  the  corresponding  Nubian  regions,  where  grassy  savannahs  also  prevail, 
there  are  numerous  gummiferous  plants,  such  as  the  acacias,  which  cover  whole 
districts  north  of  the  Senegal.  Even  in  the  south  the  most  widespread  tree  is 
the  goniake,  or  Adansonia  acacia,  whose  hard,  close-grained  wood  yields  an  excellent 
material  for  ship-building.  On  the  coast  the  characteristic  plants  are  the 
arborescent  malvaceie,  the  gigantic  baobab,  and  the  bombax.  In  Senegal  the 
baobab  was  first  studied  by  Adanson,  whence  its  botanical  name  of  Addiimiiia 
(li<jitata.  But  so  early  as  the  beginning  of  the  sixteenth  century  Cadamosto 
alreadj'-  spoke  with  amazement  of  these  stupendous  growths,  w.uch  yield  the  so- 
called  "  monkey-bread,"  eaten  also  by  man.  Still  larger  and  of  more  symmetrical 
form  than  the  weird-like  headless  baobab  is  the  bombax,  whose  enormous  uiirial 
roots  form  large  recesses,  in  which  travellers  take  refuge  for  the  night  and  where 
"  palavers  "  are  sometimes  held.  Although  usually  regarded  as  the  fetish  tree  in 
a  pre-eminent  sense,  some  of  the  natives  convert  the  stem  into  canoes  of  18  or  20 
t'ms  burden.  The  down  of  its  fruit,  too  short  and  fragile  for  weaving  purposes, 
supplies  a  substitute  for  touchwood. 

The  cocoa-nut,  now  abundant  in  Lower  Senegal,  is  of  comparatively  recent 


!  « 


5 


:l 


ii 


It**'  ii; 


>» 


136  WEST  AFRICA, 

importution,  and  the  dale-piilm  occurs  cliiefly  in  thn  neighbourhood  of  Bakol  and 


about  the  FaWm^  confluence,  which  is  its  southern  limit.     The  wild  forest  plants 
yield  scarcely  any  edible  berries  or  nuts  beyond  the  small  red  fruit  of  the  sidotn. 


FAUNA  OF  SENEGAL. 


137 


a  thorny  zizyphus,  which  flourishes  on  the  Upper  Senegal  and  Faleme.  In 
Kaarta  and  other  regions  of  the  interior  the  vine  grows  spontaneously,  even 
yielding  a  savoury  grape,  which,  however,  none  but  the  children  ever  think  of 
gathering.  The  attempts  to  introduce  this  vine  into  France  have  tailed,  and  even 
in  the  country  it  has  been  found  impossible  to  graft  it. 

Besides  the  species  already  known  in  commerce,  botanists  mention  hundreds  of 
woody  or  grussy  plants,  whose  seeds,  roots,  bark,  sap,  gum,  foliage,  or  fruit  might 
be  turned  to  profitable  account.  Cine  of  the  most  remarkable  is  the  kuriU  {liamn 
Parkii)  of  the  Bakhoy,  Faleme,  and  neighbouring  districts,  which  has  acquired 
the  name  of  the  butter-tree,  from  the  fatty  svibstance  of  its  fruit,  the  ce  of  the 
natives  and  -shea  of  English  writers.  The  (Jki'h,  or  kola  {Sfrrculin  acuminata), 
whose  root  will  render  even  foul  water  pleasant  to  the  taste,  forms  extensive  forests 
on  the  Upper  Senegal  and  in  Futa-Jallon. 

Fai'na. 

Like  the  flora,  the  Senegalese  fauna  belongs  to  the  two  conterminous  regions 
of  the  Sahara  and  Sudan.  In  the  northern  steppes  and  those  of  Futa,  the  Arabo 
hunt  the  ostrich,  which  is  even  domesticated  in  many  villages.  The  giraffe  and 
various  species  of  antelopes  are  still  met  on  the  grassy  plains  dotted  over  with 
clumps  of  trees  which  stretch  from  the  great  bend  of  the  Senegal  southwards  in 
the  direction  of  the  Sulum  and  Gambia.  The  well-watered  and  fertile  tracts 
remote  from  human  habitations  still  afford  a  refuge  to  the  elephants,  who  roamed 
in  herds  of  forty  or  fifty  over  the  savannahs  in  the  eighteenth  century,  and  who  so 
recently  as  1860  were  occasionally  seen  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lake  Panieful,  or 
even  crossed  the  lake  into  the  lower  delta.  Nor  has  the  hippopotamus  yet  dis- 
appeared from  the  Upper  Senegal,  while  the  wild  boar  frequents  all  the  thickets. 
The  grey  monkeys  are  the  onlj-  quadrumana  seen  on  the  coastlands ;  but  multitudes 
of  cynocephali  inhabit  the  forests  of  the  interior.  These  baboons  constitute  little 
republics  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  cultivated  tracts,  where  thoy  commit  great 
depredations  amongst  the  crops.  Yet  some  of  the  tribes  near  liakel  claim  to  have 
made  a  treaty  of  peace  with  the  monkeys,  in  virtue  of  which  their  lands  are  exempt 
from  pillage.  Winwood  Read  asserts  that  these  animals  combine  to  attack  (he 
panther,  usually  killing  him  after  losing  many  of  their  members. 

Beasts  of  prey,  scarcely  ever  seen  in  Futa-Jallon,  are  numerous  and  formidable 
throughout  the  Bambuk  district.  The  lion,  here  raaneless,  but  as  large  as  "  the 
lord  of  the  Atlas,"  haimts  the  steppes  north  and  south  of  the  river,  and  is  frequently 
seen  prowling  about  Dagana  in  the  dry  season.  He  is  said  never  to  attack  women, 
and  even  to  make  way  for  them ;  but  in  the  Jolof  country  the  people  sjjcak  with 
dread  of  a  black  lion  who  does  not  hesitate  to  fall  upon  men.  No  European  hunter 
has  ever  seen  this  animal,  but  mention  is  frequently  made  of  other  rapacious  beasts, 
such  as  panthers,  leopards,  tiger-cats  and  wild  cats,  lynxes,  hyujnas,  and  jackals. 

Birds  are  very  numerous  near  the  forests  and  marshy  districts.  The  sui-manga, 
a  living  gem  like  the  humming-bird  of  the  New  World,  all  sparkling  with  gold 
and  metallic  lustre,  is  seen  at  times  to  flash  amid  the  emerald  foliage.     The 

78— AF 


It 


II 


>PKi( 


f^MrS^'-'' 


IBS 


WEST   AFRICA. 


I* 


m 


■i,]r<|*ii 


II 


in 


pomerine  fiimily  i '  very  muiieroualy  represented  in  Senegal,  and  several  of  its 
varii'lics,  such  iis  tlu'  eanlinal,  the  widow-bird,  and  senagali,  have  become  familiar 
ornanuMits  of  the  Kurop  iiii  aviaries.  The  local  variety  of  the  parrakeet,  nnich 
dreaded  by  the  jjjrowers  of  millet,  is  in  great  letjuest  amongst  the  bird-dealers  of 
Saint-IiDuis.  A  more  useful  bird  is  the  ilohixe,  or  black  stork,  which  preys  freely 
on  all  kinds  of  reptiles,  li/ards,  venomous  snakes,  the  green  adder,  and  even  small 
boas.  In  the  rivers  and  lagoons  arc  found  the  electric  fish  and  two  species  of 
crocodile,  "  one  that  eats  man,  and  the  other  eaten  by  man." 

IXHAIUTANTS  OF   THK   SENEGAL   BasIN, 

In  its  ethnology  as  well  as  its  flora  and  fauna,  French  Seuegambia  is  a  land  of 
transition,  where  a  sharp  contrast  is  presented  between  the  Arabised  Berbers  from 
the  Mediterranean  seaboard  and  the  Nigritians  from  the  heart  of  Africa. 

The  Senegalese  "  Moors,"  although  of  northern  origin  and  calling  themselves 
former  vassals  of  the  Emperor  of  Marocco,  have  nothing  but  their  name,  language 
and  religion  in  common  with  the  Mauritanian  Moors.  So  far  from  being  civilised 
members  of  settled  communities,  most  of  them  live  in  the  nomad  state,  wandering 
with  their  herds  from  camping-ground  to  camping-ground,  and  pursuing  men  and 
animals  on  the  open  plains.  Descended  from  the  Zenaga  Berbers,  who  gave  their 
name  to  the  Senegal  river,  they  have  largely  intermingled  both  with  the  Arabs  and 
with  the  subjected  Negro  population.  Hence  amongst  them  is  found  the  whole 
series  of  types,  from  the  swarthy  southern  European  with  broad  brow,  regular 
nose,  and  thin  lips,  to  the  flat  features,  pouting  lips,  and  crisp  hair  of  the  Negro. 
The  lighter  element  is  represented  chiefly  by  the  Hassans,  or  horsemen,  and  the 
Marabouts,  or  religious  class.  As  nobles,  conquerors,  and  Mussulmans  of  the  old 
stock,  both  of  these  look  upon  themselves  as  superior  to  the  lower  castes,  whom  they 
speak  of  contemptuously  as  lahnic,  or  food.  The  Hassans  plunder  their  subjects 
by  brute  force  ;  the  ^larabouts  swindle  them  by  medical  jugglery  and  magic  arts. 
"  Remember  that  the  Marabout  must  always  take  and  never  give,"  said  one  of  these 
men  of  God  to  Rene  Cdillie.  "  Gratitude  is  the  virtue  of  vassals  and  captives, 
unworthy  of  superior  beings,"  is  another  of  their  edifying  axioms. 

The  subjects,  who  are  the  true  nobles,  being  descended  from  the  first  owners, 
constitute  the  bulk  of  the  primitive  Zenaga  population,  beneath  whom  are  the 
captives,  nearly  all  blacks  obtained  by  conquest  or  purchase  from  every  part  of 
Sudan.  The  fair  element  is  said  to  form  about  a  twentieth,  the  blacks  one-half, 
and  the  half-caste  Berbers  and  Arabs  the  rest  of  the  Senegalese  Moors.  The 
numerous  geographical  terms  in  the  western  districts  north  of  the  Lower  Senegal 
attest  the  long  persistence  of  the  Berber  dialects  amongst  the  Zenagas.  One  of 
those  dialects  alone  survives  amongst  a  few  groups  of  the  Trarza  people,  amongst 
the  ^larabouts,  and  the  Lamtuna  branch  of  the  great  Dwaish  confederation. 
Elsewhere  the  Boidan  Arabic  dialect  has  everywhere  supplanted  the  Berber  speech. 

liut  whatever  be  their  origin,  the  Moors  have  a  proud  spirit  and  noble  courage. 
They  are  inured  to  the  hardships  of  long  expeditions,  and  surprisingly  frugal  when 
not  living  at  the  expense  of  others.      As  in  so  many  parts  of  Africa,  the  young 


INIIAWTANTS  OF  SENEGAL, 


18!) 


■al  of  its 
faniiliiir 
I't,  much 
IcalerH  of 
ys  freely 
veil  small 
jpecics  of 


a  land  of 
bers  from 

lemsclves 

language 

',  civilised 

thundering 

■  men  and 

ave  their 

irabs  and 

the  whole 

7,  regular 

lie  Negro. 

.,  and  the 

)f  the  old 

'hom  they 

r  subjects 

lagic  arts. 

e  of  these 

captives, 

it  owners, 
II  are  the 
y  part  of 
one-half, 
ars.  The 
r  Senegal 
One  of 
,  amongst 
sderation. 
3r  speech. 
>  courage, 
gal  when 
le  young 


women  are  fattened  for  matrimony,  and  in  several  tribes  their  upper  incisors  are 
made  to  project  forward  so  as  to  raise  the  upper  and  rest  on  the  lower  lip. 

i)espite  their  tribal  feuds  and  caste  prejudices,  the  Moliammedan  floors  have 
ahvavs  combined  against  the  hated  Christian.  The  French  have  failed  to  reduce 
bv  dividing  them,  and  although  far  less  numerous  than  the  black  jMipulations  of 
the  Senegal  basin,  they  have  resisted  the  encroachments  of  the  wliites  i.ir  niuru 
resolutely.  In  war  they  are  pitiless,  after  the  battle  sparing  only  the  women  and 
children.  Tlie  Negroes  have  many  axioms  breathing  the  spirit  of  hatred  wliich 
they  cherish  against  their  Uerber  oppressors.     "A  tent  shelters  nothing  honest 

unless  it  be  the  horse  ^.^   63.-Tearza  Type. 

that  curries  it;  "  "  If 
a  Moor  and  a  vipev 
cross  thy  path,  kill  the 
Moor,"  arc  sayings 
current  among  the 
Jtdofs,  and  perhaps 
sufficiently  accounted 
for  by  the  Arab 
maxim  that  the  Negro 
"must  be  trampled 
under  foot  and  im- 
poverished to  make 
him  submissive  and 
respectful." 

Although  split  up 
into  endless  clans, 
sects,  and  sub-groups 
of  all  sorts,  the  Moors 
constitute  two  natural 
divisions  only,  the 
northern  tribes,  who 
never  leave  the  steppes 
verging  on  the  desert, 
and  tl'c  Guebla,  or 
southern    tribes,    who 

migrate  to  and  fro  between  the  fluvial  trading- stations  and  the  camping-grounds  ot 
the  interior.  But  for  political  and  commercial  convenience  the  French  have  classed 
them  in  the  three  great  groups  of  the  Trarzas,  liraknas,  and  Dwaish,  to  whom  they 
assign  a  collective  responsibility  for  the  observance  of  the  treaties.  In  virtue  of 
these  treaties  they  can  no  longer  cross  the  Senegal  except  as  guests  and  friends, 
the  only  Moorish  tribe  now  settled  on  the  left  bank  being  the  Dakalifus,  to  the 
west  of  Lake  Panief  ul. 

The  Negro  Wolofs  still  remember  the  time  when  the  Ganar  district  north  of 
the  Lower  Senegal  was  occupied  by  them.     But  they  were  compelled  to  withdraw 


u 


- 


140 


WEST  AFRICA. 


before  the  marniuHng  Trarzns,  and  the  whole  territory  to  the  gates  of  Saint-Louis 
gradually  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Moors.  Even  down  to  reeent  times  the 
marauding  Trarzas,  crossing  the  river  at  low  water,  raided  over  the  plains 
stretching  southwards  to  the  Dimar  and  C'ayor  districts.  Hut  in  IH'>H  they  were 
finally  driven  back,,  and  now  occupy  a  tract  of  about  (JO  miles  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river.  Higher  up  follow  the  Bracknas,  and  beyond  them  the  Dwaish  (Ida-u- 
Aish),  both  holding  a  territory  I'M  miles  in  extent. 

Nortli  of  these  three  riverain  groups  are  many  other  Arab  and  Berber  tribes 
less  known  to  the  French,  such  as  the  I'lad-el-IIaj,  and  further  east  the  Ulad- 
Embarek  and  the  Sidi-Mahmud,  reckoned   the   most  skilful  of  ostrich-hunters, 


Fig.  64. — Natural  Divisions  of  SKNEOAMniA. 

Scale  1 :  9,000,000. 


ns**f9ft         j^ftoi'tf* 


16' 


•» /-Qt/TA     -    JJ>LLoW         \^i*uoi>K£fi.  "-■'^o^i''' 


16" 


West    oT   breeow  cH 


!0' 


ISO  Miles. 


capturing  the  birds  by  means  of  leaden  balls  attached  to  thongs  without  injuring 
the  plumage  or  shedding  a  drop  of  blood. 

liesides  the  Moors,  both  sides  of  the  river  are  occupied  by  a  few  half-caste 
communities  intermediate  between  the  Berbers  and  Negroes,  and  generally  known 
collectively  as  Porognes.  This  term,  however,  which  corresponds  somewhat  to 
that  of  Haratin  farther  north,  is  in  some  places  applied  to  the  full-blood  iVegroes 
in  captivity  amongst  the  Moors.  But  great  confusion  prevails  everywhere  in  the 
ethnical  nomenclature,  so  that  at  times  a  certain  vagueness  attaches  even  to  the 
names  of  the  great  Senegalese  and  Sudanese  groups,  such  as  the  Fulahs,  Wolofs, 
Sarakoles,  and  Mandingoes.  Of  all  these  nations  the  Wolofs  and  Sarakoles  appear 
to  be,  if  not  the  true  aborigines,  at  least  the  longest  settled  in  the  country. 

The  "Wolofs. 

The  Wolofs,  who  are  typical  Senegalese,  occupy  a  very  extensive  domain, 
comprising  nearly  the  whole  of  the  space  lying  between  the  Senegal,  the  Faldm^, 


If 


TUE  WOLOFS. 


141 


and  iho  Gambia.  They  are  the  exclusive  inhabitunts  of  the  Wulo,  ^ayor,  Huol, 
and  Joiof  districts,  the  lust  mentioned,  properly  the  name  of  u  chief  branch,  beinj^ 
sometimes  applied  to  the  whole  nation.  Saint-Louis  and  Dakar,  the  two  centres 
of  French  authority,  both  lie  in  Wolof  territory,  and  in  all  the  military  stations 
throughout  Sudan  there  is  sure  to  be  a  Wolof  coh)ny  preserving  its  national  speech 
and  usages.  According  to  Tuutain,  the  term  Wolof  would  appear  to  mean 
"Speakers,"  as  if  all  other  peoples  were  speechless  barbarians;  llarth,  however, 
pro|M)8e8  perhaps  the  less  probable  sense  of  "  Blacks,"  in  opposition  to  the 
neighbouring  Kulahs,  or  "  Red  "  people. 

Certainly  the  Wolofs  are  "  blacks  of  the  blacks,"  their  shiny  skin  having  the 
colour  of  ebony,  and  their  very  lips  being  black,  although  of  a  lighter  shade  than 
the  rest  of  the  body.     They  arc  distinguished  from  most  Negroes  of  the  seaboard 

Fig.  65.— Chief  Nations  and  Tribes  of  Seneoahbia. 

Scale  1  :  !»,000,000. 


Q  grnh^rrk 


I 


,  180  Milea. 


by  a  slighter  degree  of  prognathism,  the  incisors  being  very  little  inclined  forward. 
Generally  of  tall  stature,  both  sexes  have  an  admirably  proporticmed  bust,  but 
lender  lower  extremities,  undeveloped  calves,  flat  feet,  and  great  toe  more  detached 
than  among  Europeans. 

The  Wolof,  distinct  from  all  other  forms  of  speech  current  in  Africa,  is  a 
typical  agglutinating  language.  The  roots,  nearly  all  monosyllables  ending  in 
consonants,  are  determined  by  means  of  sudixes,  and  coalesce  together  while 
remaining  invariable  in  their  different  nominal,  adjectival,  verbal,  and  adverbial 
meanings.  By  these  suffixes  the  meaning  of  the  words  is  endlessly  modified, 
verbs,  for  instance,  being  diA'ersely  conjugated  in  their  several  reciprocal,  emphatic, 
augmentative,  diminutive,  accelerative,  repetitive,  cursative,  or  habitual  forms  by 
a  change  of  the  final  syllable.  A  few  roots  have  been  borrowed  from  the  Fulah 
and  Mandingan  tongues,  and  some  technical  terms  from  the  Arabic;  but  as  a 


I 


;  i 


142 


WKST  AFUICA. 


ill 


If!* 


^-^ 


wli<»U'  Wolof  is  a  very  pure  and  iKMiio^jcncous  fuini  of  speech.  As  the  current 
hin<;\ia<>o  <»f  coninureial  intercian-se  throuj^hoiit  Sene^jainbia,  if  has  ac«iuire(l  a 
paramitunt  iiiipdrtaiico,  und  nuiiuM-ous  Wolot'  frrainniars,  diclinnaries,  and  voca- 
huhiries  have  appeared  in  France  and  Africa  since  |M-J).  Ihit  no  literature, 
l)roperly  ho  called,  has  yet  heeu  developed.  The  Wolofs  preserve  their  national 
.son;;s,  lei;ends,  and  i)rovirb8  hy  memory,  and  apart  from  those  attendin;^  Mchool 
they  have  no  knowh-djic  of  any  letters  beyond  the  Arabic  characters  on  their  paper 
spells  and  amulets. 

Most  Wolofs  call  themselves  Mussiiluuins,  aUhoujj;;h  in  the  neijrhbourhood  of 
tlie  missionary  stati(ms  some  chiim  the  title  of  Christians.  The  chief  dill'erence  is 
that  I  lie  former  have  trinkets  enclosing  scraps  from  the  Koran,  while  the  latter 
wear  medals  and  scapuhiries.  All  feasts,  Mohammedan  and  Christian  alike,  are 
celebrated  with  e(|iial  zeal,  and  many  of  the  old  pagan  rites  still  attract  the  mulli- 
tiule.  Thus  at  (ioree  the  capture  of  a  sluirk  and  its  exhibition  in  the  streets  excites 
u  perfect  fren/y  of  deliglit,  all  work  being  stopped  for  hours  together.  Most  \Voh)fs 
believe  in  a  family  genius,  to  whom  they  make  offerings ;  in  many  houses  the 
tutelar  deity  is  a  lizard,  for  whom  his  bowl  of  milk  is  scrupulously  set  apart. 
The  Marabouts,  or  "  Serins  "  of  the  early  travellers,  also  enjoy  very  great  autho- 
rity ;  all  are  ac(piiiinted  with  Arabic,  and  by  them  the  scho(ds  are  conducted. 

Polygamy  is  sanctioned  by  usage,  and  the  wife  is  "chained"  to  her  husband, 
as  is  the  daughter  to  her  fathex'.  She  has  no  personal  rights,  and  at  her  husband's 
death  b.  longs  t<}  hia  brother.  She  nnist  jven  simulate  death,  and  remaine;!  crouched 
and  motionless  until  the  husband' .  sister  comes  to  resuscitate  her,  as  it  were,  by 
i'ttiring  her  in  mourning.  Us;ge  still  allov.s  the  judgment  of  the  dead.  IJefore 
the  burial  the  neighbours  gather  to  praise  or  blame  the  departed,  to  sing  his 
virtues  or  bemoan  his  vices.  Rut  on  the  brink  of  the  graves,  whether  sprinkled 
or  not  with  the  blood  of  an  ox  or  of  any  other  victim,  nothing  but  good-will  and 
affection  is  shown  to  the  dead.  In  some  places  the  roof  of  the  cabin  is  re- 
moved and  plai-ed  on  the  tomb,  the  new  home  of  the  lost  friend.  For  a  year  after 
the  burial  the  touching  custom  also  still  prevails  of  sending  to  some  indigent 
neighbour,  or  to  a  slave,  the  portion  of  food  usually  allotted  to  the  deceased  when 
alive.  ( >n  returning  from  the  grave  to  his  home  great  care  must  be  taken  to 
make  many  turnings  and  to  go  astray,  as  it  were,  in  order  to  deceive  the  evil 
spirit,  wlio  might  else  find  his  way  to  another  house  and  carry  off  a  fresh  victim. 

The  old  kingdom  of  Cayor,  largesf  of  the  Wolof  states,  has  been  respected  by 
the  French.  Tlie  ruler  is  elected,  but  always  from  a  family  enjoying  the  royal 
prerogative,  and  the  electors,  themselves  barred  from  intriguing  for  the  honour, 
number  four  oidy.  "When  appointed,  the  king  receives  a  vase  said  to  contain  the 
seeds  of  all  the  plants  growing  in  Cayor.  He  is  thus  constituted  lord  of  the  land, 
and  henceforth  on  him  depends  the  abundance  of  the  crops.  Before  the  inter- 
ference of  the  French  in  the  local  arrangements,  all  the  Wolof  states  recognised  a 
supreme  head,  the  liur,  or  "  Great  Wolof,"  to  whom  the  secondary  kings  sent  a 
drum  of  homage.  He  was  approached  on  all  fours,  with  bare  back  and  head  covered 
with  dust. 


I 


Till':  SKUERS. 


148 


II'  ('iirrent 
iriiuircd  ii 
and  voca- 
lilrratiirc, 
national 
iii;j;  scliool 
uir  pujjor 

ih'IkhhI  of 

I'croiici'  is 

tilt"   latter 

iilikc,  arc 

till*  iiiulli- 

■cts  excites 

ost  Wolofs 

houses  the 

set  apart. 

reat  autho- 

leleil. 

r  husband, 
husband's 
d  crouched 
It  weie,  by 
1.      IJefoie 
3   8in<»'  his 
r  sprinkled 
•d-will  and 
ibin   is  re- 
year  after 
le  indigent 
used  when 
)  taken  to 
3  the  evil 
li  victim, 
ipected  by 
the  royul 
le  hi>nour, 
»ntuin  the 
the  land, 
the  inter- 
30gnised  a 
igs  sent  a 
id  covered 


The  Wolofs  are  thoroughly  devoted  to  the  Kiench  cause,  and  display  the 
greatest  courage  and  heroism  whenever  called  upon  to  iK<rfonu  any  <lei'd  of  prowess 
in  the  service  of  the  whites. 

TiiK  Skiikks. 

The  Sercrs,  southern  neighbours  of  the  Wolofs,  l)elong  to  the  same  stock,  and  in 
numy  places  form  with  them  hall'-caatccommiuiilies,  siHMttiuies  even  adopting  their 
lungu:ige  and  usages.  Klsewhere  they  luive  intermingled  witii  the  ^landingoes, 
to  which  contpuring  race  belong  most  of  their  reigning  families.  |',iit  the  proper 
domain  of  the  pure  Serers  is  still  sharply  deliniated  by  the  watcrparting  of  the 
Gambia  and  Salum,  comprising  all  tiie  basin  of  the  latter  river  and  lliem-e  to  the 
Taunui  Lagoon  at  the  neck  of  the  Cape  \'crd  peninsula.  In  this  extensive  terri- 
tory of  nearly  ;">,()()(>  mjuare  miles,  the  Serers  are  subdivided  into  numerous  shifting 
groups  reducible  to  two  main  divi.si(m.s — the  None  Serers  in  the  north-" est,  and 
the  Sine  Serers  (the  IJarbarians  of  the  early  Portuguese  writers)  occupying  all  the 
rest  of  the  country.  The  latter  are  by  fur  the  most  numerous,  and  their  language, 
which  presents  many  close  analogies  with  Wolof,  has  been  tlie  lu'st  studied. 

Of  all  the  seaboard  Nigritians  the  Serers  are  the  tallest,  men  (»f  (>  feet  (»  inches 
being  by  no  means  rare.  The  chest  is  well  developed  in  proi^rtion  to  the  stature, 
and  their  figures  might  be  described  as  Herculean  if  the  lower  correspoiided  to  the 
upper  extremities.  Somewhat  less  black  than  the  Wolofs,  they  present  more 
Negro  features,  with  broader  nostrils,  more  flattened  face,  and  thicker  lips.  As 
amongst  their  neighbours,  wives  are  purchased  of  the  father,  but  do  not  belong  to 
their  husband  until  a  form  of  make-believe  abduction  is  gone  through. 

Although  the  influence  of  Islam  has  been  of  late  years  inci'cased  by  intercourse 
with  the  Wo'ofs  and  the  conquest  of  the  Salfim  basin  by  a  Fulah  Marabout,  the 
bulk  of  the  j)Cople  still  practise  pagan  rites.  The  gods  are  worshipped  at  the 
foot  of  the  trees,  and  at  the  new  moon  the  spirits  of  air  and  night  are  conjured 
with  mysterious  incantations.  The  two  supreme  deities  are  Takhar,  god  of  justice, 
and  Tiurakli,  god  of  wealth,  the  former  appealed  to  against  tlie  injuries  of  others, 
the  op])res8ion  of  the  great,  the  magic  arts  of  the  weak,  the  latter  implored  for 
the  success  of  all  undertakings,  even  when  iniquitous  and  disapproved  of  by  the 
benetioent  deity  himself.  The  snake  also  held  a  high  place  in  the  mitional  pan- 
theon, and  was  often  known  to  appear  in  various  disguises,  even  "  assuming  the 
uniform  of  an  aged  ofhcor  of  the  empire."  Formerly  he  received  oirerings  of 
living  animals,  especially  cattle  and  poultry  ;  but  zeal  having  waned  since  the  spread 
of  the  new  ideas,  he  has  to  be  satisfied  with  the  remains  of  the  animals  consumed 
at  the  publi(!  feasts.  Most  of  the  natives  believe  in  the  transmigration  of  souh, 
which  explains  many  features  in  their  funei'al  observances. 

TlIK    SaRAKOT.KS,    KA.SSOXKtS,    AND   JaLT.ONKES. 

The  predominant  Negro  element  in  the  middle  Senegal  region,  formerly  known 
as  the  "  Galam  "  countiy,  are  commonly  known  by  the  name  of  Sarakole.     They 


I 


^Wsii 


"W^^SW^^^^WW^i 


144 


WEST  AFRICA. 


call  thomsolv«>s  Sonink*^  which  is  suid  to  have  ori>?innlly  monnt  "  white,"  hut 
which  in  the  (juinbiii  hasiii  hus  brconu*  synonymous  with  inipimiH  and  drunkard. 
Hv  «<>"ii'  <hcv  are  rej^ardcd  as  totally  distinct  from  their  Manilmra  and  Mandinf^un 
nei^'hhours,  while  others  attiliate  them  to  the  Sonrhais  of  the  middle  Isiper,  with  a 
slight  dash  of  Herber  blood,  which  would  account  f  ■  "ir,.  !<<lativcly  fair  com- 
plo-xion.  Hut  numt  ethnoh)Kists  agree  with  Harth  in  '  v'  ;•;  th  «m  with  tho 
great  Mandingan  family.  Where  iiiterminglings  have  tuu  ;i  place,  their  language 
is  more  or  less  atfected  bv  Kulah,  Jhunbaru,  and  iMundingan  element ■,  and  Tuutaiu 

i\    5(3.— WoLOF   GlHL,    BiJtTKKN    YkaB8  OF   AuK. 


\<i-«* 


t^k 


il 


finds  that  both  in  its  roots  and  syntax  it  is  fundamentally  connected  with  Mandin- 
gan.  According  to  their  traditions,  they  formerly  held  extensive  sway  on  the 
banks  of  the  Niger ;  but  in  any  case  they  have  certainly  occupied  the  Senegal 
basin  long  before  the  arrival  of  the  other  Mandingoes  and  Bambaras. 

Scattered  in  small  isolated  groups  throughout  Senegambia,  the  Sarakoles  are 
found  in  most  compact  masses  along  both  banks  of  the  Senegal  between  Bafulab^ 
and  IJakel.  Considerably  smaller  than  the  Serers  and  Wolofs,  they  are  still  taller 
than  the  Fulahs,  but  of  less  graceful  carriage.     The  complexion  is  a  dark  chestnut, 


'^hl>-:- . ■■-';■- -S-^^^i^=-SS•.'*^«"'■^' 


■^ris^'fs^.i^^'^^^^B^l^'i'^''-^^'"'^ 


,i,i,^»i,v,'v(Ki.-(.j-,^,:-x" 


i 


THE  SARAKOLLS. 


146 


inclininp^  to  rod,  iiiul  iicoordiiig  to  Tautuin  ♦ho  true  niouiiin^  of  SorokhuUo  is  "  rod 
inon."  The  fuciul  pro|^nuthiMm  in  vory  inarkod,  und  tlioy  uro  furthor  (listii)i,Miisli»'d 
by  u  rotreiitiijjjf  brow,  Mlij^htly  promiiiont  olu'ok-bonos,  short  thick  tioso,  rocodiiig 
chin,  woolly  l)ut  not  curly  huir.  Most  of  the  \ mucn  dross  their  hair  in  tlio  f(»nn 
of  u  holinot,  olof^untly  interwoven  with  jjlass  trinkets  and  umber  beads  visible 
throujfh  u  floutinjf  gauzo  veil.      Their  hou8os  uro  ulso  kept  vory  doun  and  tuate- 

Fig.  67.— Sf.reb  Youth,  Twknty-One  Ykahi  Old. 


fully  grouped  in  hamlets  disposed  round  a  large  central  tree  with  a  raised  encir- 
cling platform,  where  the  villagers  assemble  to  discuss  public  affairs. 

Notwithstanding  their  mild  and  essentially  peaceful  disposition,  the  Surukoles 
have  by  passive  resistance  contrived  to  keep  together  in  a  number  of  petty  nion- 
archfcal  or  oligarchical  states,  some  isolated,  some  grouped  in  confederacies,  but  all 
now  Mohammedan.  Many  trade  in  caravans  from  village  to  village,  even  visiting 
the  coast,  in  order  to  see  with  their  own  eyes  the  wonderful  things  of  which  they 
have  heard.  Few  harbour  hostile  feelings  towards  the  whites,  with  w'hom  they 
willingly  associate,  and  under  whom. they  readily  accept  service  by  land  and  water. 
Thus  combining  the  qualities  of  settled  and  nomad  populations,  and  naturally  of  a 


8 

i 
it 


^'m!^^^mm?i^mismim:mm:i^:^i>^ 


140 


WEST   AFRICA. 


cliporful  buoyant  tompcramont,  they  seem  destined  to  become  on  the  upper  wliat 
the  Wolofs  are  on  the  lower  Senegal,  the  French  of  the  colony. 

Other  somewhat  distinct  ethnical  groups  about  the  headwaters  of  the  Senegal, 
apparently  half-castes,  and  speaking  dialects  more  or  less  related  to  ^landingan,  are 
the  Kassonkes,  forming  federal  republics  in  the  Medina  district,  in  Kasso,  Kamera, 
Guidimakha,  and  Nadiaga.  ^Fost  of  them  have  a  relatively  light  complexion  and 
pleasant  features,  with  a  stealthy,  cat-like  gait.  They  are  quick  but  cunning,  and 
of  dissipated  habits,  given  to  dancing  and  merrymaking,  and  keeping  up  an 
incessant  tam-taming  night  and  day  in  all  their  villages.  The  Kasso  women  lead 
the  fashion  in  all  matters  connected  with  the  toilet. 

The  Jallonkcs,  between  the  JJafing  and  Niger,  formerly  occupied  the  Futa- 
Jallon  higlilands,  whence  they  take  their  name.     Of  all  the  Senegambiuu  Negroes 


Fig.  38. — DiSTEIBUTION   OF   THE  FuLAIIS  IN  WeST  AtEICA. 
Scale  1  ;  60,000,000. 


0  Meridian  o'Tureenwich 


''■■■]  ^r^^:^3f?K:^ 


Centres  of  Fulali  Topulotion. 


■  1,200  Miles 


they  have  come  bast  under  European  influences,  and  have  been  described  us 
barbarous  and  cruel,  still  clothed  in  the  skins  of  wild  beasts.  Towards  the  north 
they  have  come  in  contact  with  the  Soninkcs,  elsewhere  with  the  Mandingans  and 
Fulahs,  who  have  dispossessed  them  of  their  primeval  homes. 


.AS' 


The  Fulahs. 

These  Fulahs,  a  foreign  race  entirely  distinct  from  the  surrounding  Negroes, 
have  wedged  themselves  in  between  the  blacks  of  the  seaboard  and  those  of  the 
Niger.  Here  they  are  more  numerous  and  present  a  more  compact  national  body 
than  in  any  other  part  of  Sudan,  throughout  which  region  they  are  scattered  in 
more  or  less  powerful  communities  for  a  sjiace  of  about  2,700  miles.  They  are  met 
as  far  east  as  Darfur,  while  in  the  west  they  have  penetrated  to  the  Nunez,  Pongo, 
and  Mellicory  coast  streams.     Their  colonies  stretch  north  and  south  for  GOO  miles 


>.-^-!^s^iift;.v^-^  ^' ?->*:*:- 


'Ai^jmi--xt:f^:-:ji-^m&'^^^ 


Senegal, 


THE  FUL^UIS. 


117 


between  the  Senegal  and  Bcnue  rivers.  But  however  vast  be  this  domain  in  which 
they  huve  founded  great  empires,  such  as  those  of  Ilaus-i  and  Massina,  their 
settlements  are  almost  everywhere  very  scattered,  and  in  many  regions  lost  as  it 
were  in  the  surrounding  sea  of  Negro  populations.  Even  in  the  district  of  French 
Sudan  specially  known  as  Fula-dugu,  or  "  Fulah  Land,"  and  by  many  regarded  as 
the  cradle  of  the  race,  only  a  few  Fulah  families  are  now  met.  Nevertheless 
throughout  their  widespread  territory  they  everywhere  maintain  a  certain  national 
solidarity,  recognising  themselves  as  brethren,  thanks  to  the  common  speech, 
traditions  and  usages. 

Those  who  have  best  preserved  their  racial  purity  have  a  somewhat  red  or 
bronzed  complexion,  with  features  differing  little  from  the  Berber  type — oval  face, 
ringlety  or  even  smooth  hair,  straight  nose,  delicate  and  rather  thin  lijjs.  ^lany, 
especially  of  the  women,  may  be  described  as  really  beautiful  in  the  European 
sense  of  the  terra,  and  the  charm  of  this  beauty  is  heightened  by  their  mild, 
I)leasant  expression,  graceful  carriage,  noble  bearing,  and  the  good  tuste  displayed 
in  their  dress  and  ornamentation.  The  shape  of  the  skull  resembles  that  of  the 
fellahin  in  the  Nile  delta,  and  many  of  the  women  di'oss  their  hair  like  that  of  the 
Egyptian  statues.  They  regard  themselves  as  absolutely  distinct  from  the  Negroes, 
and  those  met  by  European  travellers  in  Central  Sudan  never  fail  to  claim  brother- 
hood or  kinship  with  the  white  strangers.  But  the  majority,  being  zealous 
jMohaminedans,  prefer  a  Ilimyaritic  or  Arab  origin,  and  the  Marabouts  trace  their 
genealogical  tree  back  to  a  common  ancestor,  Fellah  ben  Ilimier,  "  Son  of  the 
Red,"  that  is,  of  the  Ilimyarite,  thus  explaining  at  once  their  descent  and 
complexion. 

From  tluB  surrounding  Negroes  they  are  distinguished  even  more  by  their 
pastoral  pursuits  than  bj^  their  physical  features.  Less  nomad  than  the  Moors, 
they  none  the  less  readily  change  their  abodes,  even  abandoning  their  hamlets  for 
the  sake  of  their  herds,  without  any  thought  of  returning,  liy  thus  following  their 
zebus  they  have  spread  over  the  whole  of  West  Africa,  everywhere  displaying  u 
marvellous  attachment  to  and  knowledge  of  the  habits  of  these  animals. 

Taken  as  a  whole,  the  race  is  distinguished  by  great  intelligence,  lofty  ideas,  a 
poetic  tone,  and  dignity  of  speech.  The  tales  recited  of  an  evening  in  the  village 
groujjs  breathe  such  an  elevated  spirit  as  to  be  simply  unintelligible  to  the  neigh- 
bouring Negro  people?  Yet  the  Fulahs  have  shown  their  superiority  even  by 
taking  a  lesson  from  the  agricultural  blacks,  and  in  some  districts  they  have  become 
completely  settled,  combining  tillage  with  the  national  occupation  of  stock- 
breeding.  They  also  become  skilled  craftsmen,  and  have  learnt  to  extract  the 
metal  from  the  ivon  ores,  smelting  and  forging  it  into  implements  of  husbandry, 
utensils,  knives,  and  weapons.  The  jewellers  handle  the  precious  metals  with 
great  taste ;  the  builders  erect  solid  and  commodious  dwellings ;  the  tanners  and 
workers  in  leather  prepare  excellent  sheaths  and  many  other  articles  in  that 
material ;  lastly,  with  the  native  cotton  the  weavers  produce  fabrics  almost  as  fine 
as  muslin. 

As  warriors  the  P^ulahs  hold  their  own  against  all  other  African  races.     In 


J I 


m 


A' 


148 


WEST  AFRICA. 


time  of  war  all  able  adults  march  to  battle,  and  in  their  expeditions  they  give 
proof  of  great  strategic  skill.  Besides  the  arms  common  to  the  Nigritian  peoples, 
they  have  iron  spears  with  leather-bound  handles,  often  wrought  with  great  skill. 
Although  they  have  slaves,  employed  in  the  houses  and  as  field -labourers,  it 
redounds  to  their  honour  that  they  have  never  taken  part  in  the  slave  trade. 
Under  rare  circumstances  criminals  were  sold  instead  of  being  put  to  death,  and  a 

Fig.  59.— FirLAii  Type. 


few  nomad  Fulahs  were  captured  on  the  confines   of  their   territory ;   but   they 
were  scarcely  represented  amongst  the  gangs  transported  to  the  ]S'ew  World. 

The  recent  migrations  and  invasions  of  the  Fulahs  are  recorded  in  history ;  but 
where  were  they  settled  in  the  early  period  of  Islam  ?  Are  they  Negroes,  who 
have  acquired  a  fair  complexion  and  regular  features  by  crossings  mth  the  Arabs 
and  Berbers  ?  Are  they  kinsmen  of  the  Nubian  Barabras,  or  of  the  ancient 
Egyptians,  whom  they  resemble  in  so  many  respects  P  Have  they  migrated  from 
the  southern  slopes  of  Mauritania  in  company  with  those  Garamantes  who  carved 


THE  TOUCOULEUES. 


149 


the  images  of  their  zebus  on  the  face  of  the  rooks  in  the  wilderness  ?  Or  is  their 
origin  to  be  sought  beyond  the  continent,  in  Mahiysia  or  am  -ngst  the  gipsies  who 
miarrated  centuries  uiro  from  India  ?  For  all  these  views  have  been  advanced 
without  helping  ranch  towards  tlie  solution  of  this  curious  ethnological  problem 

Nor  has  the  Fulah  language  yet  found  a  detinite  jjosition  amongst  the  linguistic 
families  of  Africa.  It  has  two  grammatical  genders,  not  the  nuiscidine  and 
feminine,  as  in  most  idioms,  but  the  human  and  non-human  ;  the  adjective  agrees 
in  assonance  with  its  noun,  and  euphony  plays  a  great  part  in  verbal  and  nominal 
inflection.  In  some  respects  the  sonorous  Fidah  tongue  resembles  the  surrounding 
Negro  dialects,  while  in  the  use  of  suffixes  betraying  the  Semitic  influences  to  which 
it  opi)ears  to  have  been  long  exposed,  lint  its  true  position  must  soon  be  deter- 
mined by  means  of  the  numerous  grammatical  works,  including  one  by  a  prince  of 
Sokoto,  thai  have  already  been  composed  in  this  language.  Its  general  features, 
combined  with  the  national  and  historic  traditions,  seem  to  assign  an  eastern  origin 
to  the  Fulahs,  who  first  crossed  the  continent  from  east  to  west,  and  then,  like  the 
Mauritanian  Arabs  ir.  more  recent  times,  retraced  their  steps  eastwards.  From 
the  banks  of  the  Senegal  came  those  Fulahs  who,  at  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century,  founded  the  Ilaussa  and  Mussina  empires  in  the  Niger  basin. 

Apart  from  a  few  tribes,  especially  those  of  the  Birgo  district,  the  great  bulk 
of  the  race  have  long  been  Mohammedans.  Many  are  even  animated  by  an  ardent 
spirit  of  prosclytism,  although  their  religious  zeal  has  not  rendered  them  intolerant. 
Their  men  of  letters  are  quite  free  from  the  slavish  adherence  to  the  text  of  the 
Koran  characteristic  of  the  eastern  ^Mussulmans,  and  when  a  passage  seems 
iniintelligible  or  contrary  to  their  way  of  thinking,  they  freely  modify  it  in  accord- 
ance Avith  their  own  religious  views  Ijike  other  Mohammedans  they  admit 
polygamy,  but  scarcely  practise  it,  a  fact  due  mainly  to  their  respect  for  w  oman 
and  to  her  influence  over  her  husband.  "  Let  a  female  slave  enter  a  household," 
say  the  Wolofs,  "  and  she  sotm  becomes  mistress." 

Unlike  those  of  the  Negroes,  the  Fulah  governments  are  not  despotic,  each 
state  generallv  constituting  a  theocratic  republic,  whose  almamy,  or  chief,  exercises 
his  temporal  and  priestly  functions  with  the  advice  of  the  elders  and  notables. 
The  elective  element  plays  an  important  part  in  the  local  administration,  and  the 
real  rulers  are  the  wealthy  families. 

The  TorcoiTLEURS. 

Analogous  institutions  prevail  amongst  the  Toucoideurs  of  the  four  riverain 
provinces  of  Damga,  Futa,  Toro,  and  Dimar,  between  the  Faleme  confluence  and 
liake  I'anieful.  This  collective  name,  by  some  scarcely  seriously  derived  from  the 
English  "  two  colours,"  because  the  natives  are  mostly  brown  or  coppery  half-caste 
Negroes,  Moors,  and  Fulahs,  took  the  form  of  Tacurores  in  the  works  of  the  I*ortu- 
guese  writers  of  the  sixteenth  century.  Hence  there  can  be  no  doubt  of  its  identity 
with  Tacurol,  already  mentioned  by  Cadamosto  as  the  old  name  of  the  country,  and 
since  confused  with  the  Takrdr  or  Takarir  pilgrims  from  West  Africa  to  Mecca, 


! 


"■v^^St«efff^l%'.i-  >a^nts"^'- 


150 


WEST  AFEICA. 


nmong  which  are  inimcrous  Scne<?ambian  hajis.  The  Toucoiilours  arc  speciallv 
(listiiignishecl  by  their  Mohammedan  fanaticism.  Their  intellif^ence,  energy,  and 
ambition  also  render  them  formidable  rivals  of  their  Negro  neighbours,  and  even 
of  the  French  settlers.  Living  on  the  left  bank  of  the  main  stream  over  against 
the  Moors  who  occupy  the  north  side,  they  have  often  obstructed  the  naviga- 
tion, and  had  they  not  been  divided  amongst  themselves  the  Europeans  could  never 
have  cenfpiered  the  Senegal  basin.  Till  quite  recently  the  French  columns  hud 
great  difKculty  in  penetrating  into  the  Toucouleur  territory ;  but  in  188'"),  after 
long  diplomatic  negotiations,  the  Government  was  allowed  to  coin[>lete  the  telegrajjh 
system  between  Goree  on  the  Atlantic  and  Bamaku  on  the  Niger  by  connecting  the 
eastern  and  western  sections  across  the  hitherto  hostile  district  from  Salde  to  Bakel. 
In  Kaarta,  also,  north  of  Ikkhoy  and  Baule,  the  way  is  again  barred  to  the  French 
by  the  Toucouleur  conquerors  of  that ,, region.  But  notwithstanding  their  inaepen- 
dent  and  fanatical  spirit,  their  love  of  labour  and  enterprise  render  them  a  useful 
element  in  the  Senegal  basin.  They  emigrate  freely  in  search  of  fortune,  and 
whole  colonies  of  Toucouleur  peasantry  have  estublish^^d  themselves  on  the  banks 
of  the  Gambia. 


*^ 


Tub  Europeans. 

In  the  presence  of  all  these  different  races,  who  are  still  in  the  same  period  of 
historic  development  and  social  organisation  as  the  Europe  of  mediaeval  times,  the 
modern  epoch  with  its  new  ideas  and  advanced  institutions  is  represented  by  the 
tew  whites  who  are  settled  at  Saint-Louis,  Goree,  and  Dakar  on  the  coast,  and  who 
visit  the  riverain  stations  or  make  exploring  journeys  into  the  interior.  Yet  even 
this  handful  of  Frenchmen  does  not  thoroughly  represent  all  the  organic  elements 
of  European  society,  for  it  comprises  none  but  traders,  soldiers,  and  officials,  with  a 
few  artisans  amongst  the  military  conscripts.  Although  the  oldest  of  the  French 
possessions,  Senegal  has  the  least  claim  to  its  title  f  "colony."  Hither  no  Euro- 
peans have  ever  come  freely  to  settle  ' ^.  n  in  the  country  as  artisans  or  lalwurers, 
and  even  in  most  prosperous  years  not  more  than  seven  hundred  or  eight  hundred 
men  have  ever  arrived  of  their  own  accord.  Women  arc  so  rare  that  their  presence 
is  looked  upon  as  a  proof  of  heroism.  This,  of  course,  is  due  to  the  dangerous 
character  of  the  climate,  which,  speaking  broiidly,  is  fatal  to  Europeans  of  weak 
constitution  and  to  all  who  do  not  jjay  the  stri»'test  attention  to  diet  and  sanitary 
I)recautions.  To  the  numerous  local  endemics  are  occasionally  added  violent 
epidemics,  such  as  cholera  and  especially  yellow  fever,  which  latter  has  broken 
out  six  times  since  1830,  usually  carrying  off  over  one-half  of  the  French  residents 
in  the  coast  towns. 

Although  certain  ])iirtial  experiments  have  succeeded,  as,  for  instance,  the 
construction  of  the  railway  from  Dakar  to  Saint-Louis  by  European  navvies,  we 
must  still  repeat  with  Berenger-Feraud  that  "  the  acelimati.-'vtion  of  the  French  in 
Senegal  is  a  chimera."  Until  some  infallible  specifics  are  discovered  against  miasma 
and  yellow  fever,  and  health  resorts  established  on  the  Futa-Jallon  uplands,  Euro- 


t-'^f-" 


Ill 


TEADE  OF  SENEGAL. 


151 


pcans  can  only  be  temporary  residents  in  Senoo;an\bia.  The  vital  statistics  between 
1843  and  1847  show  that  amongst  them  the  mortality  is  fourfold  the  birth-rate. 
Since  then  matters  have  not  mended,  and  French  society  has  still  to  be  maintained 
at  Saint-Louis,  Dakar,  and  Ilutiscjue  bj'  the  constant  arrival  of  fi'esh  recruits. 
Even  the  Eurafricans,  or  French  half-castes,  have  failed  to  establish  themselves  as 
an  independent  connnunityin  the  coinitry.  After  four  centuries  of  occupation  this 
element  is  very  slight,  and  the  statistics  carefully  collected  by  scientific  medical 
men  clearly  .show  that  the  offspring  of  mixed  dliances  born  on  the  seaboard 
frequently  die  young,  while  the  unions  of  the  survnors  are  mostly  childless.  F'ew 
families  liave  survived  to  the  fourth  generation,  although  M.  Corre  has  .shown  that 
in  Saint-Louis  the  projjortion  of  births  over  deaths  iu  this  section  of  the  community 
was  seven  to  four. 

In  Senegambia  no  Creole  form  of  speech  has  sprung  up  like  those  of  the 
Antilles  and  Louisiana.  Wolof  is  still  the  most  current  language  on  the  coast, 
while  in  the  interior  Arabic  and  F'ulah  are  indispensable  for  intercourse  with  the 
Moors  and  Fulahs.  French,  however,  is  slowly  gaining  ground,  more  through 
the  personal  influence  of  the  native  soldiers  and  sailors  than  through  the  systematic 
instruction  of  paid  teachers. 


'  I 


I ; 


Trade  anu  Agriculture. 

During  the  last  few  years  the  trade  of  Senegal  has  acquired  considerable  expan- 
sion. During  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries  the  traffic  of  the  chartered 
companies  consisted  chiefly  in  procuring  Negroes  for  the  West  Indian  plantations. 
In  1682  an  "  Indian  piece,"  that  is,  a  Negro  of  prime  qualit}',  costing  only  ten 
livres  in  Senegal,  fetched  as  much  as  a  hundred  crowns  in  the  American  colonies, 
and  the  yearly  exportation  averaged  one  thousand  five  hundred  souls.  This  traffic 
did  not  completely  cease  as  a  legalised  industry  till  the  Restori,ition,  after  which 
the  only  staple  of  trade  was  gum,  derived  from  various  species  of  acacia,  adan son ia, 
seval,  and  other  plants  growing  in  the  territory  of  the  Moors  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river.  The  forests  of  gummiferous  trees,  some  of  which  cover  several  hundred 
square  miles,  are  now  in  the  exclusive  power  of  the  Trarza,  Brakna  and  Dwaish 
tribes,  or  rather  of  the  tribal  cliit'fs,  who  employ  their  captives  on  the  plantations. 
The  produce,  mostly  bought  up  by  T3ordeaux  houses,  is  paid  for  partly  in  cash, 
partly  in  kinti — millet,  rice,  biscuits,  tobacco,  rifles,  ammunition,  textiles,  and  espe- 
cially "  guineas,"  that  is,  pieces  of  cotton  60  feet  long,  which  were  long  admitted  as 
the  unit  of  value  in  the  barter  trade  throughout  Senegal.  In  good  years  the  yield 
of  gum  exceeds  six  million  pounds,  and  might  be  greatly  increased  by  planting 
acacias  in  the  Futa  district  south  of  the  river,  and  by  working  the  forests  more 
systematically. 

For  some  years  the  chief  staple  of  export  has  been  the  ground-nut  {Arachis 
hi/po(j(fa),  the  cultivation  of  which  has  gradually  spread  along  the  middle  Senegal, 
in  Cayor  and  Saiam,  since  it  began  to  be  exported  in  1844.  From  the  agricultural 
point  of  view  the  ground-nut  presents  the  great  advantage  of  improving  instead  of 


1  I 


!l 


II 


'.^:s?IB8a3^#7"" 


tSlirvtr  M\Xi 


IJ 


162 


WEST  AFRICA. 


exhausting  the  soil,  while  its  foliage  offers  tlie  best  fodder  for  all  herbivorous 
animals.  Other  articles  of  export  are  eighteen  varieties  of  millet,  rice,  maize, 
boref  (oleaginous  melon-seeds),  wax,  cotton,  caoutchouc,  skins,  ivory,  ostrich 
feathers,  and  vegetable  butter,  all,  however,  in  very  small  quantities 


Fig.  CO.— Mineral  Reoions  of  Baubxte. 
Scale  1 :  1,400,000. 


15' 


.Guimeu 


15' 


lS°io' 


1 1°  40'    West  of  Greenwich 


.  24MUea. 


The  land  is  nearly  everywhere  in  the  hands  of  the  natives,  who  cultivate  it 
with  far  more  cai'e  and  intelligence  than  is  generally  supposed  by  superficial 
observers.  "  No  husbandman,"  says  a  local  proverb,  "  finds  the  day  too  long  or 
his  lugan  ('  plot ')  too  small  "     Many  concessions  have  been  made  to  Europeans, 


MINERALS  OF  SEXEU.U.— GOLD-MlNINa, 


153 


but  boiiif?  too  extensive  they  have  been  but  purtiully  cultivated,  and  all  sueb  laiuU 
allowed  to  lie  fallow  for  u  certain  period  revert  to  tlie  original  owners.  A  great 
(lilHcultv  is  found  in  keeping  up  the  slock  of  animals.  The  liorsi-,  ass,  (Mine!,  and. 
oack-o.v  of  the  Sahara  soon  yield  t(»  the  climate,  and  although  the  nude  is  bardirr. 
he  is  also  very  costly.  The  sheep  thrives,  changing,  however,  its  W(»<)1  tor  a  silky 
eoat  ;  and  in  the  interior  there  arc  several  breeds  of  domestic  animals,  surli  as  tlu' 
Khassonkc  "  send)  oxen,"  which  have  become  perfectly  acelimati-cd,  ai.d  which  in 
some  places  even  run  lialf  wihl  in  the  forests. 

"MiNEUAI.    RksOI  RCKS. 

Senegal  abounds  in  minerals,  such  as  gold,  silver,  nu«rcuty,  c<.pi)cr,  and  iron. 
From  time  innnemorial  the  natives  of  Hondu  and  Hi.mbuk  have  washed  the 
quartzose  sands  of  the  Faleme  and  its  atHuents  for  gohl,  and  the  lJand)uk  mines 
themselves  were  perhaps  w.n-ked  by  the  Portuguese  so  early  as  th(>  b.-ginningof 
the  fifteenth  century.  According  to  the  tradition  they  were  all  massacred  by  the 
uatives,  and  there  are  certainly  indications  that  in  early  tinu-s  innnigrants  from 
Iberia  penetrated  into  these  regions.  At  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  centrry 
Aiulre  Brvie  erected  the  two  forts  of  St.  Joseph  on  the  St-negal  and  St.  Peter  on  the 
Faleme,  and  sent  Compagnon  in  quest  of  the  gold  minc-s.  This  traveller  traN-ersed 
the  whole  of  the  IJamhuk  mineral  district,  ascended  the  valley  of  ^'  e  Sanu-Klx.lc, 
or  "  Kiver  of  Gold,"  to  the  Tambaura  iMountains,  and  brouglit  back  some  veiy  rich 
specimens  of  auriferous  clays.  Since  then  the  country  has  been  frecpu-ntly  visited, 
but  no  direct  attempts  were  made  by  the  French  Government  to  work  the  mines  till 
1858.  Even  these  experiments,  which  yielded  somewhat  more  than  t'4,0()0,  were 
brought  to  an  end  by  the  extreme  insalubrity  of  the  clinuite,  and  the  more  recent 
effort^s  of  private  companies  have  met  with  no  better  success,  leaving  the  working 
of  the  mines  and  washing  of  the  sands  .mtirely  in  the  hands  of  the  natives. 

The  mineral  deposits  of  the  Bare  district,  on  one  of  the  head  streams  of  the 
Bakhoy,  appear  to  be  more  productive  than  those  of  the  Pambftk,  yielding  to  the 
natives  a  yearly  profit  of  £8,000.  But  iron  is  probably  the  metal  destined  to 
become  the  chief  resource  of  the  Upper  Senegal,  where  the  ores  cover  vast  tracts 
and  yield  an  average  proportion  of  from  one-half  to  two-thirds  of  pure  metal.  It 
is  already  smelted  in  furnaces  of  primitive  structure,  and  in  many  places  the  natives 
also  utilise  the  masses  of  meteoric  iron. 

The  Senegalese  smiths  manufacture  iron  daggers,  spears,  and  agricultural 
implements.  The  jewellers  display  considerable  skill  in  the  production  of  delicate 
filigree  work,  and  the  native  weavers  supply  considerable  quantities  of  cotton 
faln-ics  for  the  local  consumption.  But  with  the  exception  of  a  few  fancy  articles, 
no  manufactured  goods  are  prepared  for  the  foreign  nuirket. 

SociAi-  AND  Political  State. 
Domestic  slavery  is  a  universal  institution,  the  so-called  "  house  captives  "  being 
considered  as  secondary  members  of  the  family,  and  treated  in  every  respect  like 

74— A  F 


■■  ii4m-i<'»x-i*m'mitm»- 


'A:.^"«^:-*i-Jfe^ 


i:»iS»»si:**5  i  vv  i'SanffsSi?; 


._.-_JJ 


UA 


WKST  AFUICA. 


*J'J 


m 
1 1 


llirir  iisso(iiit<<s.  Tlioso  oinployed  as  iirtisaiis,  weavers,  jjotfers,  carpciitors,  builders, 
and  tlie  like,  also  for  the  most  part  enjoy  a  considera'^'o  sliare  of  practical  free<l()Tn. 
Tiiev  enjoy  tlie  t'l•llit^  of  their  industiy,  may  iKemseivs  ])ossess  slaves,  and 
occasionally  rise  to  imjiorlant  positions  in  the  state.  The  ajfricultural  labourers 
fare  much  worse,  and  the  tribes  that  own  the  fewest  slaves,  as,  for  instance,  the 
Toueouleui's,  also  display  the  greatest  enerji:y,  contributinj^  most  to  the  social 
transformation  of  Sene<;anii)ia.  In  the  territory  directly  administered  by  France 
slavery  has  been  abolished  since  1S4S,  and  according  to  th(>  law  all  captives  setting 

Fig.  (il.— Trade  Routes  and  I'kojkcted  Kaii.v.iYs  i.v  Seneoal. 
Settle  1  :  10,000,000. 


West    or     ur^enwich 


Depths. 


RHJlwajR  noinplctcd. 
Huilw.iys  ill  ((instruction. 


—    Projeetrd  rnilwiiyB, 
Triide  routes. 


0  to  UGO 
Feet. 


660  I'eet  nnd 
upwards. 

—  300  Miles. 


foot  on  this  territory  become  ipso  f ado  free  men,  although  colonial  usage  connives 
at  the  frequent  violation  of  this  right. 

The  actual  extent  of  this  political  domain  is  far  from  considerable.  Half  a 
century  ago  it  was  scarcely  perceptible  on  the  maps,  and  the  establishment  of  a 
colonial  state  worthy  of  the  name  was  not  taken  seriously  in  hand  till  comparatively 
recent  times.  M.  Faidherbe,  founder  of  the  French  power  on  the  Senegal  River, 
bt^gan  his  operations  in  18-14.  by  his  personal  influence  and  force  of  arms  gradually 
establishing  peace  on  a  solid  footing,  converting  the  independent  riverain  chiefs 
into  vassals,  and  abolishing  ail  artificial  obstructions  to  free  trade  in  the  interior. 
The  fort  of  Medina,  erected  on  the  Senegal  where  it  ceases  to  be  navigable  in  the 
dry  season,  served  as  the  starting-point  of  a  series  of  expeditions  to  the  upper 
valleys,  and  when  u   formidable    Mohammedan   army   was   shattered   under  the 


roMTlCAL  STATE  UF  SJENEGAL.  J  55 

walls   of    this  cifadi'l,   defended    only   by  about    a   Iminlrcd   and    lilty  nicu,  tlii' 
(•(inquest  of  the  country  was  sot-urcd. 

Tho  consolidation  of  their  military  poW(>r  in  th(^  uitpr  tiuvial  l)aMn  enabled  tiie 
French  columns  to  push  more  bohlly  into  the  interi(u-,  aiul  in  1SS;{  they  seized  and 
constructed  a  f(Ht  at  IJanuiku,  on  the  Ni«,'er.    Henceforth  the  Ipper  Joliba  becauu- 
connected  commercially  with  the  scu,  and  Timbuktu  seems  soon  (hsiined  to   turn 
towards  Saint-Louis  us  its  natural  outport.      During;  the  first  fervour  of  enthusiasm 
created  by  the  occupation  of  a  station  on  the  >«'ij,'er,  hopes  were   entertained   that 
Scne<,'al  and  Alj^eria  mi«;ht  s<.on  be  link(>d  tof,'eth(>r  by  a  ^rand  hi>,'hway.  foreruniu'r 
(•f    a  future  trans-Sahariau   railway.       These  hopes  have  not    been    reaiiseil  ;    all 
attempts  made  from  the  Algerian  side  have  ended  in  disaster,  and  tho  Tuaregs  with 
their  allies  still  block  the  way.      Thus  the  extreme  points  occupied  by  the  Krencli 
on   this    line— Ciolea,   .south   of  Algeria,    and    Kulikoro,  on   the    Niger     are    still 
separated  by  a  distance  of  1,480  miles  us  the  bird  Hies;   that  is,  fai-  moic  than  half 
of  the  whole  route.      Even  the  space  never  yet  traversed   or  surveyed  by  the  most 
advam-ed  explorers  between  Twat  and  Timbuktu  exceeds  78U  miles,  a  dist -nee  ccpial 
to  tiiat  between  I'aris  and  Warsaw. 

Nevertheless,  the  8'       '^al   artery  is   the  most  frequented  waterway  in    West 
Africa.     Describing  n  semicircle  round   the  Gambia,  Casaman/.a,   and   other 

streams  flowing  southward,  it  forms  the  western  bninch  of  the  groat  system  of 
running  waters  which,  through  the  Niger,  extends  to  the  Bight  of  Benin,  emlosing 
a  well  detined  region  some  S()(),()0()  scpiare  miles  in  extent  Jlence  the  political 
importance  of  the  line  of  the  Senegal  is  very  considerable,  but  it  lucks  breadth,  and 
would  be  liable  to  be  broken  through  at  many  points  were  it  not  guarded  with 
extreme  vigilance.  European  colonisation  being  also  impossible,  political  cohesion 
can  be  secured  only  by  tho  good-will  of  the  natives,  by  satisfying  their  interests, 
and  gradually  developing  a  sentiment  of  national  solidarity  amongst  them.  But 
tliis  ideal  is  still  far  from  being  realised,  and  were  France  not  to  come  to  the  aid  of 
the  colonial  Government  with  men  and  subsidies,  the  situation  would  rapidly  becomo 
perilous. 


Routes  and  Railways. 

The  most  urgent  want  is  a  rapid  means  of  communication  between  the  Niger 
and  the  sea.  Till  recently  no  route  existed  except  the  Senegal  itself,  which  is 
interrupted  for  a  great  part  of  the  year  above  Podor.  But  the  fluvial  port  of  Saint- 
Louis  is  now  at  least  connected  with  the  maritime  port  of  Dakar  by  a  railway  100 
miles  long.  This  forms  an  admirable  basis  for  a  network  of  lines  penetrating 
towards  the  Sudan  ;  but,  hitherto,  summary  surveys  alone  have  Leen  made  with  a 
view  to  the  construction  of  a  first  line  over  the  Senegal  and  Gambia  waterparting 
eastwards  across  Futa.  This  line,  some  300  miles  in  length,  would  shorten  by  one- 
third  the  distance  by  water,  while  increasing  by  120  miles  the  breadth  of  the  colonial 
territory.  Terminating  for  the  present  at  Bakel,  which,  so  recently  as  188(5  was 
attacked  by  a  force  of  Mussulman  rebels,  it  would  add  greatly  to  the  security 


■■-sii.'^'i  R!a'v"B  ?g«?i!g*?s  m^f 


I 


'K 


156 


WEST  AFRIPA. 


of  this  territory,  and  ulso  form  nn  important  section  of  the  £friuicl  trunk  line  dostinerl 
tmo  day  to  oonneet  the  Xif^erand  Timbuktu  with  the  Ix  jwirt  on  the  West  Afrieun 
rtcahoard. 

An  excess  of  /cal  somewhat  difficult   to  e.\])lain  1:  is  inspired  the  conntruction  of 
a  railway  startinj^  from  the  villaj^^eof  Kaycs,  oi;  ttu'lcft  bank  of  th(>  I'ppcr  Scnejj;al, 


.y 


III  ^i! 


Fig.  O'J.— Thk  RAFouijini-;  Railway. 

Hpiile  1  :  660,000. 


r  — — 

^*(t«B» 

li^l      ®               i -'.''' 

S-Jn.      I       <|^»  ,' 

■\?{j^ryc)    r\'- 

■S" 

l< 

14.' 

"C^lsM 

"  ^-^'ftl^ 

.iA';-'- 

>^=^~^^^ 

-v^S^jtS'^ 

"XaSiW 

'i'.-C^k '  -'  i^f^'k^i--: 

r  niSS^^L.'"  ■ 

^          '^-f^:^ 

v'^^^       ^  vkl   ' 

! 

%■:..> 

1    •*                "^^Ife.' 

■:M 

k,              '^vfe''           **■ 

I 

\  %,-                ■"/'^yifPo"'*^**'*             ^ 

2^^A«I3^^»^^               ■* 

i'-^£Sj^^<'': 

«»<j^|jjy^.                 <» 

4' 

o 

e 

•w 

IS" 

rr^ 

15" 

sc; 

rpHf 

'sO' 

West   of  Greenwich         '\\°4J  . 

\0-5*' 

••••  Railway  iu  coiistruotion. 


*W  Barrages  or  Rapids. 
12  Mileii. 


W'^i 


m 


7  miles  below  Medina,  and  intended  to  run  for  310  miles  eastward  to  the  Niger. 
The  works  began  in  IHiSf  and  were  continued  for  three  seasons;  but  the  small 
results  compared  with  the  heavy  outlay,  the  great  mortality  of  the  Italian  and 
Maroccan  navvies,  and  the  conviction  that  the  project  had  been  badly  conceived, 
brought  the  enterprise  to  a  close  after  a  first  section,  .38  miles  long,  had  been  com- 
pleted to  a  point  beyond  Diamu.     The  line  has  been  surveyed  and  partly  cleared 


Tf' 


.0  dostinofl 
st  Afnciin 

ruction  of 
I'  S(>iu'f>ul, 


■^ 


14' 


r' 


15" 

50' 


he  Niger, 
the  small 
iilian  and 
conceived, 
been  com- 
ly  cleared 


»r?'-^"«W">t'  "<!!6Wfl'1"'"'*" 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


1^  1^    III  2.2 

Hi  1^   12.0 


1.4 


1.8 


1.6 


^^ 


<^ 


/a 


o\  ;■}> 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


/.:TK,;Br5i:r,4>'t^.ii-V.%?.:S5«W'^«r«5i^:?AKSr'-1i'^^^^ 


is 


% 


.A 
-I 


•M 


li 

¥ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductlons  historiques 


rrtntto^ajruarKSL- 


:~>K^x"nf>^»sf-m'ipm;sBiS3ms-?:^imfisi'^SSS^, 


iflS^^i 


TOrOGEArilY  OF  SENEGAL, 


157 


Fk 


63.— Saint-Louis  in  1700. 
Sonic  1  :  ;w,ooo. 


ii9  far  us  Ikifuliibe,  at  the  Bating-liakhoy  coiiflueuoe,  and  at  least  fwo  carriage  muds 
liave  been  opoiiod  between  the  stations  on  the  Upper  Senegal  and  Baniaku  on  tho 
Niger,  one  running  north  through  IJaduinbe,  Goniokori,  Kita,  and  Dio,  the  otlier 
south  by  Medina  and  Niagassola.  By  the  Kita  route  were  conveyed  from  J?adumb(5 
to  liamaku  all  the  pieces  of  the  gunboat  which  at  present  navigates  the  Niger, 
and  which  on  one  occasion  descended  tho  river  as  far  as  Diafarabe,  240  miles  below 
Bamaku.  Useless  for  trading  purposes,  the  present  object  of  this  gunboat  is  to 
give  greater  effect  to  the  two  military 
stations  of  Bamaku  and  Kulikora,  and 
especially  to  enhance  in  the  eyes  of  the 
natives  the  prestige  of  the  conquerors. 
At  present  the  Niger  garrisons  are 
in  regular  communication  with  Saint- 
Louis  by  a  combined  service  of  steamers, 
locomotives,  carriages,  and  runners.  In 
the  drj'  season  the  journey  lasts  thirty- 
two  days,  in  the  wet  ton  days  less,  and 
tho  telegraph  system  is  complete  all 
along  tho  lines,  so  that  the  Upper 
Niger  is  now  in  direct  communication 
with  France  through  the  two  cables 
connecting  Saint-Louis  and  Dakar  with 
the  oceanic  lines  at  Teuerilfe  and  Sam- 
Thome. 


ToPOORAPIIY. 

The  French  Senogambian  posses- 
sions contain  but  one  town  worthy  of 
tlio  name,  Saint-Louis,  the  capital, 
founded  about  the  middle  of  the  seven- 
teenth centurj'  on  or  near  the  site  of 
the  older  factory  of  liolko  or  Bocon, 
a  term  derived  from  the  Portuguese 
Boca.  In  population  Saint-Louis  is 
the    most    important    coast-town    for 

a  space  of  2,400  miles,  from  RbatSla  in  Marocco  to  Freetown  in  Sierra- 
Leone.  It  may  seem  strange  that  one  of  the  largest  towns  in  Africa  should  have 
spinmg  up  on  such  an  unfavourable  site  for  maritime  trade,  above  a  dangerous  and 
constantly  sliifting  bar.  But  Saint-Louis  has  the  advantage  of  lying  near  the 
mouth  of  u  great  navigable  river,  and  was  founded  at  a  time  when  vessels  trading 
on  this  coast  drew  much  less  water  than  at  prest^it. 

Saint-Louis,   or   lidar,  as    the   Wolofs   call    it,  occupies  most  of  the  island, 
considerably  over  u  mile  long,  which  is  encircled  by  the  two  aims  of  the  river. 


I6'50*50  Wgat  cf  Greet^^tch 


DpptJis. 


()  to  ,T.' 
K-et. 


.'V2  Feet  and 
upwards. 

I.IOO  Yards. 


"a*'.. 


Si**w^irtSSM#s«(i*£e3?*'8i'i 


Pi 


158 


WEST  AFEICA. 


ii'i 


III 


I!," 


n: 


l!i 


Nil 


In  the  Crrfian  ("  Cbiistiiin  ")  quarter  the  streets,  all  disposed  at  riglit  angles,  are 
clean  and  well  Iniilt,  presenting  a  marked  eontrast  to  the  conic-shaped  hovels  of  the 
natives  grouped  together  at  hoth  extremities  of  the  island.  Towards  the  centre  is 
the  (JoN^ernuient  palace,  at  the  head  of  a  bridge  of  boats  T'^'O  yards  long,  which 
here  crosses  the  main  branch  of  the  Senegal,  and  connects  the  town  with  the 
insular  suburbs  of  Sor  and  lioidfri/k,  and  with  the  railway  station.  On  the 
opposite  side  are  three  other  bridges  over  100  yards  long,  communicating  with  the 

Negro  quarters  of   Gucf-JSdm;  Ndar- 

Fig.  Gl. -Saint-Louis  in   1880.  tout,  and  Gok/lOim-hll/C,  OU  tlie  toilgUO 

scnic  1 :  au.ooo.  of  sauds  exposed  to  the  waves  of  the 

Atlantic. 

The  capital  is  now  supplied  with  a 
tolerably  good  potable  water  b\-  means 
of  an  aqueduct  lo  miles  long,  which 
supplies  the  Sor  reservoir  with  over 
75,000  cubic  feet  from  the  Khassak 
lagoon.  Various  sanitary  arrangements 
have  also  tended  to  improve  the  climate, 
and  it  is  now  proposed,  if  not  to  give 
the  town  a  port,  at  lea-'  to  construct 
a  landing-stage  on  the  ocean,  so  as 
to  avoid  the  dangerous  shifting  bar. 
A  line  of  batteries  and  small  forts 
on  the  land  side  affords  complete  pro- 
tection from  the  attacks  of  the  Moors, 
Wolofs,  or  other  natives. 

In  144o,  that  is,  two  years  after  the 
discovery  of  the  Argnin  Bank  by  Nuno 
Tristam,  the  Portuguese  erected  a  for- 
tified   factory  on   the  chief  island  of 
the  archipelago,  and  established  com- 
mercial  relations  with  Adrar.      This 
fort  passed  successively  into  the  hands 
of  the  Spaniards,  Dutch,  and  English, 
and  after  a  warm  contest  was  finally 
occupied  by  the  French  in  1078.     Uut 
after  being  for  some  time  the  ctiitro  of  a  flourisliing  trade  it  was  abandoned,  and 
nothing  now  remains  of  the  citadel  except  its  foundations  half  buried  in  the  sands, 
and   surrounded   by   a  little  fishing  village.     The  place  is  inaccessible  to   large 
vessels,  and  although  the  tides  rise  six  or  seven   feet  on  this  const,  the  tortuous 
channels  connecting  the  deep  licvrier  Bay  with  the  Arguin  Straits  have  in  some 
places  little  more  than  ten  feet  at  low  water      In  front  of  the  archipelago  stretches 
the  vast  Arguin  Bank,  with  its  reefs,  breakers,  shallows,  and  alternately  submerged 
and  exposed  sands,  occupying  altogether  an  extent  of  nearly  3,000  square  miles. 


Depths. 


0to32 
Feet. 


.•^a  Feet  nnd 
upwards. 

____  1,100  Ynids. 


TOrOGKAPIIY  OF  SENEOiUj. 


159 


The  Arfjuin  Bank  terminates  at  CapcMirik,  about  100  miles  south-east  of  Capo 
Blanco,  near  which  a  breach  in  the  dunes  indicates  the  ajjproach  to  liie  dangerous 
roadstead  of  I'ortvhdih,  the  ohl  Port  of  Addi,  which  enjoyed  a  certain  importance 
till  lcS07,  the  English,  when  restoring  Senegal  to  France,  luiving  reserved  the 
right  of  trading  in  these  waters.  But  tliis  right  having  been  reliiupiisliod  in 
exchange  for  the  station  of  Albreda,  at  the  mouth  of  the   Gambia,  Portendik  has 


Fig.  65. — Gulf  and  Island  of  Aroui.v. 
Scitle  1  : 1,000,000. 


West    of  hree•^Al■z^ 


l6°.?o- 


Depths. 


^ 


OtoSS 

.32  to  80 

80  Feet  and 

Feet. 

Feet. 

upwards. 
_  15  Miles. 

11511 


large 


lost  all  commercial  value,  and  Saint -Tenuis  remains  the  only  outport  for  the  whole 
seaboard  from  Cape  Blanco  to  the  mouth  of  the  Senegal. 

But  the  capital  depends  itself  on  its  maritime  port  of  Gorec-Balmr,  which  has 
the  advantage  of  Iving  in  dee])  water  under  the  shelter  of  Cape  Verd,  and  which  is 
now  connected  with  Saint-Louis  by  the  three  fortified  stations  of  Lompitl,  Mhoro, 
and  Mbijo),  By  tlie  (  onvention  of  18G1  the  whole  coast  was  declared  French 
territory ;  next  year  !i  second  route  was  opened  farther  inland,  and  in  IS^fO  tlio 
railway  was  completed  which  henceforth  connects  Saint- I^ouis  with  its  natural 
port  on  the  Gulf  of  Goree.  In  the  intervening  fertile  region  of  Cayor  lie  several 
large  centres  of  population,  such  as  Mpul,  surrounded  by  plantations  of  ground- 
nuts, Luga  farther  south,  and  Mdami,  the  old  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Cuyor. 


IGO 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Gon'r,  tho  first  Europonn  factory  on  this  coast,  appears  to  have  been  originally 
occupied  by  tlie  Dutch,  who  f^ave  it  the  name  of  Ooeree,  from  the  island  at  the 
southern  i-ntrance  of  ihe  irarlin<rvliet.  From  the  Dutch  it  pass(>d  to  the  French 
in  1(177,  and  after  having  been  twice  seized  by  the  Hnglish.  it  was  finally  restored 
to  France  in  ISl 4.  Lyinj^  about  \\  mile  from  Dakar,  the  nearest  point  on  the 
mainland,  the  islet  of  (force  is  less  than  l.OOO  yards  lonj;,  with  an  area  of  scarcely 
!»(>  acres.  It  forms  a  basalt  rock  1*J0  feet  hif^h  on  its  south  side,  enclosing  an 
exeeUent  roadstead  from  :5(l  to  (iO  or  70  feet  deep,  well  sheltered  durinjj  the  dry 
season,  but  at  other  times  exposed  to  the  surf. 

Owinf--  to  this  drawback  and  to  its  inconvenient  insular  position,  Goree  has,  in 
recent  times,  be(>n  partially  abandoned  for  the  neighl)ouring  town  of  Dakar, 
which  has  the  twofold  advantage  of  a  port  completely  sheltered  throughout  the 
year,  and  of  a  position  close  to  Cape  Verd,  the  westernmost  point  of  the  African 
continent.  Here  have  consequently  been  erected  the  Government  buildings,  the 
barracks,  and  head  offices  of  the  trading  companies  ;  here  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Saint-T.ouis  railway,  as  well  as  of  the  Atlantic  cable,  and  hither  the  population 
continues  to  migrate  from  Goree.  A  first-class  lighthouse  stands  on  one  of  the 
crests  of  Cape  Verd,  and  other  improvements  have  been  undertaken  ;  but  much 
remains  to  be  done,  especially  in  completing  the  harbour  works,  before  Dakar  can 
hope  to  replace  Saint-Louis  as  the  capital  of  the  French  Sencgambian  posses- 
sions. 

Since  Goree  has  ceased  to  monopolise  the  local  trade,  the  shipping  has  increased 
twofold.  M(>n-of-war  and  the  Transatlantic  steamers  ride  in  deep  and  smooth 
water  at  Dakar,  while  in  fair  weather  small  craft  are  able  to  visit  the  neighbouring 
port  of  Riijisiiiic,  th(>  Rio  Fresco  of  the  early  Portuguese  mariners,  and  the  Taiigm- 
teth  of  the  Wolofs.  In  several  respects  this  rising  town,  larger  than  Goree  and 
Dakar  cond)ined,  is  badly  situated  on  an  exposed  low-lying  coast,  where  the  sands 
accumulate  in  shifting  dunes  and  the  waters  spread  out  in  stagnant  meres.  Still 
it  has  the  advantage  of  lying  at  the  point  where  the  railway  from  Dakar  leaves  the 
seaboard  to  penetrate  inland  towards  Saint-Louis.  Here  also  converge  the  routes 
from  Cayor,  llaol,  and  the  Serer  country,  and  here  is  the  chief  market  for  ground- 
nuts and  inidressed  hides.  Unfortunately  both  Rufisque  and  Dakar  are  extremely 
unhealthy  places,  exposed  to  dangerous  miasmas  and  endemic  marsh  fevers  of  a 
virulent  type.  In  this  respect  Goree  enjoys  a  decided  advantage  over  its  con- 
tinental rivids,  for  which  it  has  become  a  health  resort  much  frequented  during  the 

winter  season. 

Farther  south  follow  the  little  ports  of  Portudal,  Nianing,  Joal,  former  capital 
of  the  Barbacins,  and  in  the  same  district  FfDid  Joseph  of  Ngasobil,  headquarters 
of  the  Catholic  missicms  in  Senegambia.  Fafik,  residence  of  the  bur,  or  "  King  " 
of  Sine,  lies  on  the  river  of  like  name,  a  tributary  of  the  Salum  ;  and  in  this  basin 
the  chief  factories  are  the  French  fortified  station  of  Kaolak  and  Fumiiim,  opposite 
the  Sine  confiuence. 

Along  the  lower  reaches  of  the  Sen. 'gal  the  only  noteworthy  places  are  Warklior, 
capital  of  the  Wolof  state  ;  Richard  TjII  (  "  llichard'a  Garden  "  ),  a  fishing  village  at 


'r 


& 


as 
o 
< 

O 
Q 

I 


o 
u 


i 


iM 


<< 


I* 


i 

J 


T()l'()(iltAl'lIY  OF  Si:\r,(iAL. 


lUl 


tlio  mouth  of  the  Paiiit'l'ul  nnissary,  and  the  Diujana  station,  loiindcd  in  IS'JI 
nearly  oi)i)osito  llic  Laki>  Cayoi'  oiitlilH. 

In  the  middle  Scnefjal  region  the  cliicf  tra<lin<;  jdacos  are  Arrr,  on  the  branch 
of  the  Senofj^al  skirtin<^  the  south  side  of  Morlil  Island  ;  iSa/'/e,  on  the  main  brancli, 
and  Jliifiiiii,  al)(i\c  another  hifureation  of  the  !i\(M'. 

Bahi'l,  above  the  Toueouleur  country,  is  the  natural  ])ort  of  the  Upiier  Senegal, 
for  here  conv<>rjj:e  the  trade  routes  from  (luidiniakha  and  Kaarta  in  the  east,  from 
liambuk  in  ihe  south-east,  and  from  HoTidu  in  the  south.  The  fort,  erected  in  IS'JO, 
and  comiilited  by  three  towers  on  the  adjacent  hei<,dits.  is  the  strongest  citadel  and 
the  bulwark  of  French  jwwer  in  the  Upper  Senegal  regions.     It  is  also  the  centre 


Fi)f.  00.— RuFisuuE. 
Prnlel  :  .^liKX). 


0  to  10 
Feet. 


DcptliH 


10  to  32 
Feet. 


;  "I  I  Hnd 

VI- 'tis. 


^'A 


l,in<i  Yiiids 


of  a  considerable  local  and  export  traffic,  and  it  lies  almost  exactly  on  the  ethno- 
logical parting  line  betweeu  the  Herber  and  Negro  populations. 

South  of  Bakel,  the  !Mohammedan  Fulah  kingdom  of  Bondu  occupies  the 
almost  impercej)tible  watershed  between  the  Senegal  and  Gambia  basins.  Here 
passes  the  chief  trade  route  followed  by  Kubaidt,  ^Mungo  Park,  Gray,  Dochard. 
llaffenel,  and  other  explorers.  Ihi/rhniif',  capital  of  the  kingdom,  lies  on  a  little 
affluent  of  the  Faleme,  on  a  plain  encircled  by  rocky  hills,  not  far  from  the  ruins 
of  an  earlier  cai)ital. 

On  the  lower  I'ah'me  the  chief  military  station  is  Seini-debii,  south  of  which 
lies  Keiiieba,  which  for  a  time  enjoyed  some  celebrity  us  the  centre  of  the  liambuk 


"  >*Ui'aaw'ii^ai--:;;;?=.'aK!« 


! 


102 


WEST  Al'HICA. 


mines  Hut  "fh.>  -old  hi.l  itsolf,"  a>^  tbo  No-roos  say,  and  after  the  withdrawal 
of  the  f^arriso,,  Kenieha  fell  into  deeay.  On  a  hill  a  little  farther  f.  the  east 
stands  the  f..rtiH..d  t..wn  ..f  /<},/•«/<«««.  formerly  noteworthy  as  the  eapital  of  an 
in<lei.on(h-nt  republic,  where  tlu>  runaway  slaves  fr..m  all  the  Hurroun.lin-  distnets 
found   refuge.      Farabana  btill   holds   the   Hrst  rank    among    the  petty   states  of 

Ihinibfd*. 

Km/r.,  on  the  h'ft  bank  of  the  Senegal,  at  the  head  of  the  steam  navigation 
during  the  floods,  has  reeentlv  ae.p.ired  some  importanee  as  the  western  terminus 
of  the  railway  ;  but  its  warehouses  and  depots  have  been  gradually  transferred  to 
the  more  healthy  station  of  Dimvi,  'A^  miles  higher  up  and  on  the  same  side  of  the 
river.  «ut  the  central  military  station  still  remains  at  Medina  (the  "  City,")  7 
miles  from  Kaves  b(>low  the  Fein  Falls,  and  mc-morable  for  the  siege  of  nin.<ty-five 
davs  sustainetf in  1H.)7  bv  the  French  garrison,  followed  by  th(>  Hnal  dispersion  of 
the  forces  of  the  prophet  Al  llaji  Omar.  This  victory  secured  the  deHnite  posses- 
8i(m  of  the  Upper  Senegal,  and  in  1S78  the  capture  of  the  fortified  village-  of 
Sahfch-e,  4  miles  above  the  Felu  Falls,  opened  the  route  to  the  Niger. 

The  northern  section  of  the  Toucouleur  empire,  which  thus  became  dismembered, 
comprises  the  Kmrhi  country  formerly  dependent  (m  the  kingdom  of  Kasso.  The 
Kassonkes  and  the  Diavaras,  descendants  of  the  original  Soninke  rulers  of  the  land, 
are  the  most  numerous  ethnical  element  in  Kaarta.  Next  in  importance  are 
various  castes  of  the  Bambaras.  subsequently  the  dominant  nation,  and  the  Tou- 
couleurs,  masters  of  the  country,  less  numerous  than  the  other  populations,  but 
occupying  the  strongholds,  ami  constantly  recruited  by  fresh  immigrants  from  the 

neighbouring  Futa  district. 

Diambokho,  the  province  of  Kaarta  lying  nearest  to  Medina,  has  for  its  chief 
town  the  stronghold  of  Kmmknri,  which  was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Kassonkes, 
and  which  is  siiid  still  to  contain  five  thousand  inhabitants.  It  occupies  a  good 
commercial  and  strategical  position  at  the  confluence  of  several  wadies  to  the  west 
of  Diala,  the  chief  place  in  the  province  of  Dialafara.  In  Kaarta  proper  KogM 
and  Niogomera,  on  the  verge  of  the  desert,  have  been  replaced  as  royal  residences  by 
Nior.,  the  Hhnb  of  the  Arabs,  much  frequented  by  the  caravans  from  the  Upper 
Niger,  which  here  procure  their  supplies  of  salt  from  Tishit.  The  tablets  of  this 
indispensable  article  hero  form  the  recognised  currency,  four  representing  the 
value  of  an  adult  man.  Jarra,  north-cast  of  Nioro,  is  no  longer  the  "  Great  City," 
nor  the  "  capital  of  the  Moorish  kingdom  of  Ludamar  "  (Ulad-Mbarek,)  as  at  the 
time  of  Mango  Park's  journey.  South-east  of  it,  but  still  in  the  Senegal  basin, 
lies  the  important  town  of  Dianyfiirfe,  occupied  at  the  time  of  Mage's  visit  by  the 
Toucouleur  conquerors  who  hud  expelled  the  old  Bambara  residents. 

Till  recently  all  the  Bakhoy  basin  above  Medina  was  regarded  as  nominally  a 
part  of  the  kingdom  of  Segu  ;  but  in  reality  it  comprised  a  large  number  of 
Bamljara  and  Malinke  petty  states  and  confederacies,  which  the  Toucouleurs  had 
wasted  with  fire  and  sword.  Although  they  had  succeeded  in  establishing  them- 
selves permanently  only  at  a  few  points,  they  succeeded  in  reducing  this  feitile 
region  to  a  desert,  exterminating  nine-tenths  of  the  whole  population.     The  centre 


I 


T()l'(Mil!A!'|[Y   OF   HKNKGAL. 


168 


of  their  power  wns  Miifouh,  vi\\nU\\  <>f  Iliro;(>,  tho  ciipturo  of   wliich  place  cowt  the 
Kri>nch  u  largt!  nimilicr  <>!'  iiicii. 

Jtiit'uliilif',  last  still  ion  oil  till-  Si'ii('p;al  i)r.)por,  and  first  in  French  Siid.m,  stands 
at  an  altitiKU;  of  45(1  tVt't  over  against  thr  Hating- 1 Jai<hoy  conHuciKT,  whi-ro  it  was 
foiuidc  I  in  IMT!)  to  support  tho  military  opi>rationM  about  to  l)o  iindortakoii  in  tho 
direction  of  the  N'i<,M>r.  It  has  already  become  u  commerciul  centre,  round  which 
have  Hprunj,'  up  seven  H(.urishin«,'  villa^'es,  with  k'^''^'^'"^  ""<1  banana  plantations. 
In  IHSI  the  station  of  H'ldinnr  wixn  established  on  tho  Hak hoy,  some  (10  miies  above 
Ihifulabe,  and  the  fortress  of  ICifti  was  erected  in  the  Fula-du«j;u  country,  midway 
between  Haiiilabe  and  the  Ni-rer.  In  iHH'.i  the  Niger  itself  was  reached,  and  the 
erection  bej,Min  of  the  fort  of  liamakii,  followed  in  18H4  uud  l88.j  by  two  new 
fortified  stations  between  Kita  and  llumaku,  Kumlu  on  the  northern  and  Niagassola 


A 


Fig.    67.— BAFULAHfe. 
aeile  1  :  UU.UX). 


—  UiiHwny  in  construction. 

.^___-___.i^—  6  MilM. 


-^^\ 


on  the  southern  route.  Thus  there  is  nowhere  a  gap  of  more  than  70  miles  between 
the  French  garrisons  in  this  region,  where  the  commercial  and  strategical  centre  is 
the  post  of  Makadiambugmli,  encircled  by  fourteen  Ikmbara  villages  which  take 
the  collective  name  of  Kifn.  This  station  lies  at  the  converging  point  of  the  main 
routes,  at  the  entrance  of  a  gorge  commanded  on  the  west  by  a  mass  of  reddish 
sandstone  with  steep  escarpments  over  2,000  feet  above  sea-level  and  800  above  the 
surrounding  plain.  Fast  of  Kita  are  seen  tho  ruins  of  Bangasd,  the  old  capital  of 
Fula-dugii,  visited  by  Miuigo  Park. 

The  liafing  basin,  south-east  of  Bambiik,  is  the  least-known  region  in  Scne- 
gambia.  We  possess  no  clear  idea  of  the  rclati\  e  importance  of  the  towns  reported 
by  the  nati\TS,  such,  for  instance,  as  Dinguiraij,  capital  of  the  Toucouleur  state, 
vassal  of  Segu,  which  Omar  Al  Haji  is  said  to  have  rendered  impregnable  to  the 


i 


I 


1G4 


WEST  AFRICA. 


attacks  of  all  tho  surrounding;  populations.     In  the  same  country  of  the  Jallonkes 
are  the  two  large  towns  of  Tainbd  and  (foii/m/i'. 

Much  better  known  is  the  region  about  the  sources  of  the  Hafing,  which  since 
the  tinu>  of  Mollien  has  been  visiti'd  by  llecquard,  Lambert,  I)e  Sanderval,  Goulds- 
burv,  Havol,  Ansaldi,  and  others,  and  which  must  soon  become  one  of  the  most 
fretpiented  districts  in  Scnegambia,  thanks  to  its  excellent  climate,  picturesque 
scenery,  varied  produce,  and  the  interest  jjresented  by  the  inhabitants  and  their 
institutions.       The  communities   are  grouped  in  the  upper  river  valleys,  which 


Fi|j    08.— Rook  or  Kita.. 
Scale  1 :  lOO.OfJO. 


3,30(1  YaidB. 


diverge  in  all  directions  round  about  the  central  uplands,  and  the  chief  of  which 
are  the  Baling,  Falt;mt^,  Gambia,  and  Niger. 

Timho,  capital  of  Futa-Tallon,  lies  2,0G0  feet  above  sea-level  in  a  hilly  district 
encircled  by  the  semicircular  valley  of  the  Bafing  and  traversed  from  south  to 
north  by  one  of  its  head  streams.  This  royal  capital  is  not  a  large  place,  consisting 
only  of  some  groups  of  cone-shaped  huts  half  buried  in  verdure  at  the  foot  of  two 
neighbouring  hills.  The  descendants  of  the  original  founders,  who  came  from 
Mussina  less  than  two  centuries  ago,  have  alone  the  right  to  reside  in  Timbo,  where, 


TOrOGRArUY  OF  SENEGAL.  105 

however,  they  spend  the  dry  season  only.     Sokotoro,  the  "  Versailles  "  of  Tiinbo, 


,i:„,|'l!|l| 


ir  '  '- 


:m 


- '•' \:;;r'|pvv- 


Ms'i 


m-  ¥.|. 


f:'-^'^^^^^^^  ;| 


KMm^\:^  M  ,.  I 


If 

'''\^- 1, 


,n 


Wd 


;!'■'„,« 


If  N#  if  .'^ ' 


*,: 


vi':*;t-  I:: 


III  •  alii, :  .'^  il 

li';iili!liii:'L::'':;i'.| .  .^;"^i;.'!ii,n..i 'iiili':  i  ililiiil!i'::iiltiiitiakl.j..f,„ 

lies  some  six  miles  to  the  cnst  in   a  cirque  enclosed   by  wooded  hills.     In  the 
surrounding  valleys  are  scatteied  some  large  villages,  sereral  of  which  exceed  the 


If 


166 


WEST  AFEICA. 


capital  itself  in  population.  Such  is  Bund,  west  of  Tiiiibo,  where  is  seen  the  first 
orange-tree  i)lanted  in  Futa-Jallon,  a  magniticent  plant  with  a  trunk  ten  fe(^t  in 
circumfereneo,  and  branches  wide  enough  to  shelter  two  hundred  persons.  At  its 
foot  stands  the  tomb  of  the  famous  mariibout  Issa,  or  "  Jesus,"  before  which  all 
riders,  even  the  sovereign  himself,  must  dismount. 

FtKjitmha,  the  holy  city  of  Futa-Jallon,  a  group  of  a  thousand  Inns  stmie  .'U>  miles 
north-west  of  Timho  in  the  valley  of  the  Tene,  which  tiows  either  to  the  Jiating  or 
to  the  FaleiUL^  is  so  embowered  in  trees  that  none  of  the  surrounding  heights 
command  a  complete  view  of  the  jjlace.  Here  the  contpiering  Fulahs  erected  the 
first  moscpie  iu  this  region,  a  lofty  conic  structure,  in  which  each  new  sovereign 


Fig.  70.-  TiMBO  AND  THK  Sources  of  thk  Bafino. 
Scale  1:900,000. 


! 


18  Milea. 


comes  to  be  consecrated  king  of  Futa-Jallon.  The  most  learned  commentators  of 
the  Koran  pursue  their  studies  in  Fugnmba,  north  of  which  follow,  on  the  Bambuk 
route,  some  otiier  large  places.  Of  these  the  most  important  is  Laht',  capital  of  a 
vassal  to  the  King  of  Timbo,  and  described  by  Gouldsbury  as  covering  a  great 
extent  of  ground.  Farther  north  is  the  large  village  of  Tiinfiinui,  towards  the 
south-east  So/nv,  capital  of  the  province  of  Kollade,  and  to  the  south-west  Timhi, 
another  provincial  capital,  a  place  of  three  thousand  inhabitants  in  the  valley  of 
the  Kakrima,  which  flows  to  the  Atlantic  between  the  Pongo  and  the  Mallecory. 
Farther  north,  on  one  of  the  headwaters  of  the  Ilia  Grande,  is  situated  the  city  of 
Tuba,  said  by  Gouldsbury  to  be  the  largest  in  Futa-Jallon.      It  contains  eigbt 


APMINISTRATTOX  OF  FUTA-JALLON. 


1G7 


huiidml  I10U8OS,  besides  those  of  the  ()ut>kiits,  and  a  great  mosque,  where  warriors 
and  tniders  assemble  before  setting  out  on  imiiortaut  expeditious. 


AOMIMSIRATION    OF    Fl  TA-JaI.IOX. 

Although  :M.  Olivier  do  Sanderval  has  obtained  the  concession  of  a  railway  to 
Tinibo,  the  king  thus  expressed  his  views  on  the  subject  to  the  traveller  IJayol  : 
"I  do  not  want  our  routes  to  be  widened,  or  that  people  come  here  with  boats  or 
railways.  Futu  must  remain  to  the  Fulahs,  like  France  to  the  French."  A  few 
Fnglish  words  are  the  only  signs  of  any  European  influences  in  this  region,  where 
all  whites  are  comprised  under  the  general  desigiuUion  of  INn-tukeiro,  ov  "Tortu- 
guese."  The  chief  trade  routes  lie  in  the  direction  of  the  south-west,  towards  the 
Mallccory  and  Sieri'a- Leone,  and  in  18S1  ovi-r  one  thousand  three  hundred  persons 
accompanied  the  English  envoys  from  Timbo  to  Freetown,  with  two  hundred  and 
sixty  oxen  laden  with  ivory,  caoutchouc,  and  other  produce.  Nevertheless,  France 
is  the  only  l^uropeau  state  which  has  yet  been  visited  by  Fulah  and)assa(U)rs,  wlio 
came  to  ratify  the  treaty  concluded  between  M.  Uaytd  and  the  chiefs. 

The  I-'ulah  state  itself  is  divided  into  two  rival  factions  anah)gous  to  the  sqA  of 
the  Berber  tribes.  They  are  the  so-called  Son/a  and  J/foi/d,  who  took  their  rise 
after  the  conquest,  when  the  first  king  abdicated  in  favour  of  a  cousin,  thus  creating 
two  royal  dynasties,  each  with  its  champions  and  followers.  To  prevent  the  dis- 
intogratiim  of  the  race  it  was  ultimately  arranged,  after  many  sanguinary  conflicts, 
that  the  two  houses  should  henceforth  reign  alternately.  But  no  important 
decision  is  come  to  without  consulting  the  king  for  the  time  being  out  of  otKi'c. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  mendH>rs  of  the  national  council  are  immovable,  and  then- 
president  scarcely  yields  in  authority  to  the  almaneys,  or  kings,  themselves.  At 
each  change  of  party  the  provincial  chiefs  have  to  renew  their  homage  to  tlie 
titular  sovereign.  80  natural  does  this  division  into  two  factions  appear  to  the 
Fulahs  that  they  group  foreign  nations  in  the  same  way,  calling  the  French  Soryu 
and  the  English  xilfaya. 

But  the  true  rulers  arc  the  families  of  the  notables,  who  on  all  serious  occasions 
meet  in  council,  and  communicate  their  decision  to  the  almaney.  Nor  are  the 
Fulahs  in  other  respects  a  difficult  people  to  govern.  So  great  is  the  universal 
respect  for  the  laws,  that  the  accused  when  ordered  by  their  judges  proceed  to  the 
place  of  appeal  without  escort,  even  at  the  peril  of  their  lives.  Ordinary  theft  is 
punished  with  the  lash;  more  serious  offences  against  property  with  tlie  loss  of  the 
hand,  then  of  the  second  hand  and  the  feet,  at  each  relapse  successively.  Assassins 
and  even  incorrigible  drunkards  are  condemned  to  death,  the  criminals  digging 
their  own  grave  and  lying  down  in  it  to  see  that  it  is  of  the  recjuired  length. 

The  state  is  divided  into  thirteen  (/iatcfik  or  provinces,  each  modelled  on  the 
state  itself,  with  two  chiefs  assisted  by  a  council,  and  each  village  with  two  mayors 
aided  by  the  notables.  The  public  revenues  comprise  a  tiihe  on  the  crops, 
"  customs  "  levied  on  caravans,  tribute  from  conquered  populations,  and  a  fifth 
part  of  the  booty  taken  iu  war. 


ulIw^S  -■^^Et--'^-^?^?-* 


168  WEST  AFEICA. 

The  Senegambiau  possessions  are  connected  with  France  partly  by  elected 


> 


I 

3 

a 


representatives,  partly  by  the  officials   appointed  by  the  central   power. 


The 


■>..-'VTV%r-a-».'-^ir^n-t.-<'>i^«<»,— .vWH»rj!!r''^-*T^=^»*i« 


ADMIXISTRATIOX  OF  SENK(h\Ji. 


1A9 


L>cted 


former,  clcctid  by  wliites  and  hhicks  without  distiiictum  of  culour,  foniprise  the 
sixteen  iiieinbers  of  the  jj;enend  council,  and  the  deputy  sent  to  the  ('hunilier.  The 
chief  cohmial  olKcial,  who  is  invested  with  extensive  powers,  takes  tlie  title  of 
Governor,  and  resides  at  Saint-Louis.  A  lieutenant-governor  is  also  nominated 
to  administer  the  southern  districts  and  possessions  on  the  Ivory  and  Slave  Coasts. 
Owinj;  to  the  imhealthy  climate,  ho'-ie-sicUness,  personal  ambition,  and  the  shiftinf>; 
of  political  power  in  the  metropolis,  these  functionaries  are  often  chanj^cd,  as  many 
as  seventeen  pjovernor.s  having  succeeded  cacli  other  b"tween  the  years  18.")0  and 
IS80.  They  are  assisted  by  a  colonial  council  composed  of  high  ofhciala  and 
notables. 


Political  Divisions  of  French  Seneoauoia. 

Scalp  1  :  11,000.000. 


Annexed  Posscssiuns  und  Territories. 


Tioteoted  Distriutg. 
240  Uilea. 


The 


Out  of  a  total  revenue  of  £100,000  about  £12,000  are  devoted  to  educational 
pnrp'ses,  and  the  military  und  naval  ex])enses  are  all  defrayed  by  the  home  govern- 
ment. The  military  forces,  commanded  by  a  colonel  stationed  at  Saint-Louis, 
comprise  tive  companies  of  marines,  two  battalions  of  Senegalese  rifles,  two 
batteries  of  marine  artillery,  a  troop  of  spaliis  (cavalry),  and  a  few  other  small 
bodies,  forming  altogether  a  far  from  numerous  force,  considering  the  great  extent 
of  country  held  in  sid)jection,-and  the  thirty-five  fortified  stations  between  Saint- 
Louis  and  the  Niger,  and  from  Podor  on  the  Senegal  to  the  Mallicory,  which 
require  to  be  constantly  garrisoned.  There  is  also  a  defensive  flotilla  under  a 
naval  captain,  and  u  small  colonial  marine  to  guui'd  the  coast. 

76— AK 


M 


170 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Justice  is  adiniiiisteml  by  two  tribunals,  at  Saint-Louis  and  Gon'o,  and  a  Court 
of  Anpcal.  At  the  capital  tliorc  is  also  a  cadi,  nominated  by  the  governor,  as  well 
as  a  .Mussulman  tribunal  presided  over  by  the  fanisir,  or  chief  marabout,  for  regu- 
lating  ailairs  of  inheritance  and  marriages  in  conformity  with  the  Koran  and 
Mohammcdau  tradition.  The  commandants,  especially  of  tho  more  remote  military 
stations,  necessarily  enjoy  much  discretionary  power,  and  usually  judge  according 
to  the  local  custon'is.  In  principle,  however,  the  French  Civil  Code  prevails,  pro- 
mulgated first  in  1S;{0  and  again  in  1805. 

]iut  the  territory  to  which  the  French  judicial  and  administrative  systems 
have  been  fully  extended  comprises  only  the  four  communes  of  Saint-Louis,  Goree, 
Dakar,  and  IluHscpie,  which  are  administered  by  municipal  councils  and  mayors 
nominated  by  election.  The  "occupied"  territories,  comprising  tho  outskirts  of 
the  forts,  military  stations,  and  factories  on  the  coast,  on  the  Senegal,  and  in  the 
interior,  are  also  considered  as  French  soil  governed  by  the  colonial  administration. 
But  the  "  annexed  "  territories  are  administered  by  the  chiefs,  some  chosen  by  the 
governor,  some  hereditary  or  nominated  by  the  people  with  the  approval  of  the 
Suzerain  power.  Lastly,  the  "  protected  "  territories  are  ruled  by  semi-independent 
chiefs,  who  have  surrendered  i)art  of  their  sovereign  rights,  in  return  for  which 
France  secures  to  them  the  possession  of  their  states,  since  1879,  however,  reserv- 
ing to  herself  the  right  of  permanently  acquiring  the  lands  necessary  for  the  cou- 
struction  of  forts,  factories,  roads,  and  railways. 

The  spread  of  French  influence  appears  to  have  had  the  indirect  consequence  of 
arresting  the  progress  of  Islam,  which  at  one  time  seemed  irresistible.  The  zealous 
Berber  and  Toucouleur  proselytisers  were  at  the  same  time  the  chief  enemies  of 
France,  and  their  overthrow  naturally  put  an  end  to  their  propaganda. 

Although  past  treaties  and  letters  patent,  dating  as  far  back  as  1G81,  1685,  and 
109(5,  seemed  to  assign  the  whole  coast  region  to  Fran(!e  as  far  north  as  Cape 
Blanco,  Spain  has  recently  founded  a  station  on  Levrier  Bay,  in  Spanish  Bahia 
del  Galgo,  sheltered  on  the  west  by  the  projecting  headland  of  the  Cape.  This 
question  is  now  the  subject  of  the  negotiations  undertaken  to  define  accurately  the 
respective  limits  oi  the  French  and  Spanish  possessions. 

In  the  Appendix  will  be  found  a  table  of  the  French  circumscriptions  and  of 
the  vassal  territories  in  ISorih  Scnegambia.  Each  circle  is  administered  by  an 
ottieer  or  a  civil  commandant  with  the  atlributos  of  a  French  prefect,  and  under 
him  are  the  heads  of  the  cantons,  military  stations,  and  native  villages. 


'■W 


' 


r'^f^-^pr?r*«iv!r;s»«rw5vw.iJvv:.7-,,,jw«^-.;ff^^.^^^^ 


Court 
IS  well 


jj^aa^ 

^^^ 

IgjUg 

^^ 

r\.i.j^;;ipflW 

^H 

^^y^ 

■|£wi%l' 

rNV\'l 

^^^ 

H^i 

I^H 

g 

^S 

^^S 

^STt 

^H^ 

^^3 

^ 

rCA 

^^H 

BSlinf!<lC 

ofis*^ 

^^SBsB 

SIK^SS 

jp^P^^aj 

SiB^ 

WP^ 

^i^ 

3^^^^ 

pru- 


CIIAl'TER  V. 

SOUTH  SENEGAMBIA. 
G.VMIUA. 

HK  river  Gambia  might  at  first  sight  appear  to  be  the  most  important 
waterway  in  West  Airiea  for  penetrating  into  the  interior.  Over 
tlie  Senegal  it  enjoys  the  advantage  of  being  mueh  more  aeeessil)le 
to  shipping,  its  estuary  opening  on  less  stoiniy  waters,  while  its  bar 
at  all  times  admits  vessels  drawing  10  feet.  Its  banks  are  also 
metre  feitile  than  those  of  the  northern  rivei',  and  may  be  eultivated  as  well  in  the 
dry  season  as  after  the  floods.  This  artery  is,  moreover,  navigable  farther  east 
than  the  Senegal,  and  affords  direct  aoeess  to  the  auriferous  regions  anfl  fertile 
valleys  of  Futa-Jallon,  inhabited  by  the  industrious  Fulah  people.  It  represents 
the  ehord  of  the  vast  arc  described  by  the  Senegal. 

In  KilS  the  (Jambia  was  e.\])lored  by  Thompson,  who  ascended  as  far  as  the 
Tcnda  country,  near  the  Futa-Jallon  highlands  ;  but  he  was  murdeied  on  the  way, 
either  by  his  followers  or  by  the  Portuguese.  Two  years  afterwards  the  same  route 
was  followed  by  Jobson,  and  later  by  several  other  explorers,  who  reached  the 
Ihirra-Kunda  rocks,  and  unanimously  reported  that  the  Gambia  was  the  most 
direct  road  to  the  Upper  Senegal  regions,  and  to  the  auriferous  districts  of  Bambuk 
and  Burc.  At  that  time  it  was  even  supposed  to  be  a  branch  of  the  Senegal  itself, 
and  even  now  Mitchinson  asserts  that  during  the  Hoods  the  two  rivers  communi- 
cate with  each  other. 

But  despite  all  these  advantages  the  Gambia  has  always  remained  greatly 
inferior  to  its  northern  rival  in  political  and  commercial  importance,  owing  mainly 
to  its  more  deadly  climate,  and  partly  also  to  the  ditfeient  character  of  the  riverain 
populations,  amongst  whom  are  found  neither  the  enterprising  Berbers  nor  the 
industrious  Toucouleurs. 

Nor  has  this  artery  an  area  of  drainage  at  all  in  proportion  to  the  length  of  its 
course.  From  its  source  in  the  Futa-JuUon  uplands  to  the  estuary  at  Buthurst 
its  winding  channel  develops  a  total  length  of  about  720  miles,  while  the  basin 
has  a  moan  breadth  of  scarcely  40  miles,  and  a  total  area  of  no  more  than  '^0,000 
square  miles.  In  the  jiouthorn  districts,  which  have  escaped  the  Mohammedan 
invasions,  the  population  is  reported  to  be  tolerably  dense,  and  the  ]\Iandingoe8, 


i 


172 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Sererw,  and  (ilh(>r  Giiiiihian  trihos  proper,  probably  oxceod  twoiity  thousand  souls. 
Of  tlu'sc  sonii'  Ht'toL-n  thousand  reside  within  the  IJritish  territory,  which  comprises 
u  group  of  fluvial  islands  and  peninsulas  with  a  total  superficial  extent  of  not  more 
than  70  square  niiles. 

Of  all  the  streams  rising;  in  Futu-Jallon,  by  far  the  most  copious  is  the  (Jambia, 
which  drains  ncsirlv  the  whole  of  the  central  mass.     Eastwards  the  main  branch 


Fig.  7.1. — SOUUCKH    OF    THK   DiMMA    AND   CoMDA. 
Scale  1  :  liKl.OOO. 


i^^'\\\\     L 


■77-1 TT 


w^l 


^K 


5-*  .. 


'■<^.. 


•J  <te 


'*<•%,'>,  ^ 


>   ^ 


'^ 


'^    -\f^> 


■''-'-'■'', 


fe  ^0 


-■  AtCS»  ■■"■    ■■'  '-''/ll-A^"^^ 


J'5 


IE°iO- 


West  of"  Greenwich 


rsc 


6  Miles. 


I  li 


encircles  the  loftiest  sunmiits,  while  on  the  west  and  north-west  another  branch, 
the  Grey  l{iver  of  the  English,  collects  nearly  all  the  rainfall.  Thus  the  head- 
streams  t)t  the  Senegal  and  Niger,  as  well  as  those  of  the  Geba,  Rio-Gande.  Cassini, 
and  Kakrima,  flowing  farther  sonth  direct  to  the  coast,  derive  their  supplies 
mainly  from  the  less  elevated  southern  and  south-western  slopes. 

The  sources  of  the  Gambia,  which  have  been  visited  by  Ilecquard,  Bayol,  and 


:»:x*<  \,  .*r-- wrrr  i:pvc;:-^_  ,-fi*i's?/-=fifflE?'TiH?-.'f???^'^j3S'5oaJri^j^;^ 


FLORA  OF  GAMISIA. 


173 


Noirot,  lie  to  the  nortli  of  Lubt',  (J  inilos  from  tlio  large  village  of  Timtiiniii,  and 
dost'  to  the  hainlot  of  Oit'-Diinina,  or  "  llcail  of  tlic  Diiiiiua,"  as  the  Fulalis  call 
thfi  Gambia  througliout  its  wholocoursf.  About  a  milt>  nortli  of  tliis  point  is  a 
little  reservoir  formin<,'  the  souree  of  the  ('oml)a,  which  appears  to  be  the  farthest 
headstream  of  the  llio-drrande,  the  chief  Huvial  basin  south  of  the  (Janibia.  The 
plateau  wheneo  both  rivers  flow  seawards  has  an  altitude  of  al)out  ;5,S(»0  feet. 

After  Howing  cast  of  the  Futd-Jallon  hi;4:lilands  for  120  mik's  norlliwards,  th(> 
(lambia  sweeps  round  to  the  west,  forcing  its  way  through  a  series  of  gorges  (h)wn 
to  the  plains.  At  Sillakunda,  above  tht>  last  gorge,  the  channel,  averaging  1,000 
f(>et  in  width,  still  stands  at  an  elevation  of  "idO  fe"t.  Even  after  reaching  the 
plains  its  extremely  tortur)Us  course  is  interrupted  by  some  bouhlers  and  ledges, 
such  as  the  sill  of  15urra-Ivunda,  over  270  miles  above  the  estuary.  This  point  is 
accessible  to  light  craft,  during  the  dry  season,  tlie  most  favourable  for  navigation, 
the  current  being  then  weakest.  But  usually  deep-sea  vessels  stop  nuich  lower 
down,  ojtposite  MacCarthy  Island,  170  miles  from  the  mouth,  where  the  tide  is 
still  felt  in  the  dry  period.  The  mean  dischargt;  has  not  been  accurately  measured, 
but  it  is  known  greatly  to  exceed  that  of  the  Senegal,  regard  being  had  to  the 
nmch  smaller  extent  of  its  basin.  Jhit  here  the  rainfall  is  heavier  and  more  fre- 
(pieut,  the  period,  especially  from  July  to  September,  being  very  wet.  On  August !), 
IHtil,  there  occurred  a  downpour  of  9  inches  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  in  the 
same  year  two  others  of  over  3  inches  each. 

But  despite  the  large  volume  of  fresh  water  rolled  dowil  from  the  upper 
reaches,  the  l^ower  Gambia  is  an  estuary  rather  than  a  river,  an  inlet  of  brackish  or 
salt  water.  Above  the  mouth  its  banks  are  over  0  miles  apart,  although  the  mouth 
itself  is  only  '2h  miles  wide,  with  a  mean  depth  of  GO  feet.  Here  the  largest  vessels 
can  easily  ride  at  anchor,  for  the  bar,  which  has  still  :{0  feet  at  low  water,  lies  some 
12  miles  off  the  coast.  Several  winding  branches  penetrate  far  inland,  one  of 
which,  Oyster  ("reek,  shows  by  its  very  name  that  it  is  not  a  fluvial  but  a  marine 
channel.'  Other  tortuous  creeks  penetrate  through  the  wooded  alluvial  tracts 
northwards  to  the  Salum  estuary. 


i 


i 


w 
M 


Fr.ORA  AND  Fat  NA. 

Above  the  low-lying  tracts  about  the  estuary,  the  land  assumes  the  ai)pearance 
of  a  pleasant  verdant  region,  gently  undulating  and  dotted  over  with  those  clumps 
of  trees  and  green  thickets  which  have  caused  travellers  to  compare  so  many 
African  landscapes  to  English  parks.  The  riverain  plains  are  much  more  woodi>d 
than  those  of  the  Senegal,  presi-ntingafar  greater  number  of  different  species,  such 
as  the  baobabs,  several  varieties  of  palm,  and  the  remarkable  shea,  or  butter-tree. 
But  in  many  places  the  woodlands  are  diversihed  with  savannahs,  where  the  grasses 
grow  to  a  height  of  over  20  feet. 

Wild  beasts  still  hold  their  ground  within  a  short  distance  of  the  English 
settlements;  lions  prowl  about  the  outskirts  of  the  villages,  and  the  deep  foot- 
prints of  the  elephants  are  constantly  met  along  the  muddy  tracks.     At  the  end  of 


'■ml 


174 


WEST  AFUICA. 


tlu)  HixlocMith  cf'Titurv  more  ivory  was  ntill  (>xi)orti(l  fiom  the  Gambia  than  from 
anv  otlicr  Atricmi  rivor,  and  Kuropoan  V(>hsc1s  hiivo  often  met  herds  of  elephants 
sw'imniiiif,'  from  shore  to  shore  of  the  estnarv.  Tlie  river  and  noighbonring  creeks 
are  also  fre(iuented  by  the  hippopotamns  and  crocodiU>s. 

Inhaiutants — TiiK  Mandincjans. 

Beh)w  the  Kulah  and  JaHonke  territories  most  (»f  the  riverain  i)opuhitions 
beh)nj,'  to  the  Mandingan  Xegro  family,  which  is  most  nnmeronsly  represented  on 
the  western  slope  of  the  hills  in  this  basin,  but  which  also  penetrat(>s  into  the 
Senegal  region  towards  Hakel  and  Hafulabe,  and  into  many  districts  in  the  zone  of 
the  southern  rivcTs.  In  some  parts  of  Senegumbia  this  nation  is  best  known  by 
the  name  of  Mali'nke,  or  "  Mali-men,"  recalling  the  emjjire  of  Mali,  (»r  Melle, 
which  formerly  (>mbraced  the  whole  of  the  Ui)per  Niger  basin.  Even  after  its 
destruction  by  the  Songhais,  the  rmniM,  or  "emperor,"  long  retained  the  venera- 
tion of  his  ancient  (lambian  subjects. 

According  to  the  national  traditions,  the  Mande  or  Mandingans  (Munde-ngo, 
Mande-nga),  came  from  the  east  in  the  sixteenth  century,  driving  before  them  the 
aborigines,  uivA  breaking  them  up  into  a  nndtitude  of  small  ethnical  groups  such 
as  are  now  found  on  the  seaboard.  The  Mandingans  are  even  still  advancing,  and 
penetrating  northwards  into  the  Serer  country,  where  the  royal  families  belong  to 
their  race,  liut  while  encroaching  in  one  direction  they  lose  ground  in  another, 
and  in  the  east  the  F-ilahs  are  continually  gaining  on  them.  In  1H()2  the  ilan- 
dingan  marabouts,  formerly  called  fmshrceiht,  destroyed  hundreds  of  pagan  villages 
and  even  "  towns"  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Gambia,  and  the  inhabitants,  here 
contemptuously  called  Soninkes,  had  to  accept  the  new  faith. 

The  Mandingans  are  diversely  described  by  travellers,  which  is  due  to  their 
diverse  interminglings  with  other  Negro  peoples,  or  with  the  Fulahs,  and  also  to 
their  different  pursuits  and  other  causes.  On  the  Gambia  they  are  distinctly 
Negroes,  rather  less  black  than  the  Wolofs,  with  less  kinky  hair,  but  a  greater 
degree  of  prognathism,  and  broader  nose  crushed  at  the  root,  and  with  very  wide 
oval  nostrils.  The  expression  is  stern,  almost  harsh,  although  they  are  really  dis- 
tinguished by  great  filial  affection.  "  Strike  me,  but  curse  not  my  mother,"  is  one 
of  their  sayings,  popularised  by  ^lungo  Park. 

Their  language,  compiising  a  great  numlx>r  of  dialects,  has  no  written  literature, 
since  their  conversion  to  Islam  all  instruction  being  communicated  thicmgh  the 
Koran,  and  all  their  spells  being  composed  in  Arabic.  Mandingan  grammars, 
however,  have  been  composed  by  the  Christian  missionaries,  who  class  the  language 
with  Wolof ,  as  a  suffixing  or  agglutinating  tongue.  The  Mandingan«  possess  a  rich 
treasure  of  national  mytlis,  tales,  and  songs,  and  as  musicians  they  take  the  first 
rank  among  the  people  of  West  Africa,  possessing  not  only  several  kinds  of  drums 
and  iron  cymbals,  but  also  the  fiddle,  guitar,  and  lyre. 

It  was  amongst  the  p.igan  Mandingans  of  the  Gambia  that  the  English  first 
met  the  so-called  Mombo-Jombo,  or  village  executioners,  who  were  armed  with 


«■■ 


THE  MANDINOANS. 


ns 


|iii  from 
'phaut.s 


tn'nu'iulouH  prnvora  to  overiiwt'  uiid  pimish  all  violators  of  tho  "  custnin.'"  At 
prc'soiit  tlu'V  an-  littlo  more  thun  clowns,  the  liiujj;hinj»-stork  of  tlii'  cliildrcii.  The 
Maii(liii<j;aii8,  who  aiv  now  broken  uj)  into  nuiny  rival  |)('tty  states,  ore  excclK'nt 
hushandnien,  hut  display  their  remarkalile  talents  ehietly  as  traders.  They  have 
heen  ennipared  to  the  Sarakoles,  "the  .lews  of  West  Africa,"  hut.  iinlik<'  them,  are 
ehietly  wholesale  dealers,  earryinjj;  on  a  larjjc  caravan  trade  hetwerii  Sierra- Leonu 
and  Tiiohuktu,  and  extendinjy  their  e.\|;editionH  from  the  Senegal  to  the  lower 
Xige".  Throii^fhout  West  Africa  they  are  also  the  chief  pr»achersof  Islam,  and 
also  command  widespread  inflnenco  as  the  di«scn)inators  of  news  and  the  champions 
of  the  new  ideas,  roportiiifi^  to  their  brethren  in  the  interior  all  the  stian<?e  sights 
and  tlie  marvels  of  industry  which  they  have  witnessed  amongst  the  Kuropeans  of 
the  seaboard. 


f»< 


TlIK    ElKOrKAXS. 

In  the  Gambia  basin  the  European  clement  is  relatively  very  slight,  and  le.ss 
inHuential  than  on  the  Senegal.  In  some  years  there  are  scarcely  twenty  Kiiropi-an 
civilians  in  this  so-called  "  Colony,"  and  few  officials  reside  long  enough  in  the 
country  to  take  an  interest  in  the  populations  with  whom  they  are  brought  into 
conttict.  The  whites  suffer  chiefly  from  yellow  fever,  dysentery,  and  miasmatic 
infections,  wliilc  the  black  soldiers  from  the  West  Indies  fidl  victims  to  small-pox 
and  consumption.  It  has  been  ascertained  that  the  Januiicu  Negrf>es  resist  the 
climate  of  the  Gambia  no  better  than  the  whites  from  the  liritish  Isles.  Whole 
battalions  have  melted  away  in  a  few  months,  the  average  mortality  of  the  troo])s 
being  4S()  per  thousand.  The  half-caste  element  is  also  inconsideiable,  not  nH)re 
than  a  few  thousands  being  collectively  classed  as  "  Creoles,"  most  of  whom  appear  to 
be  Catholic  Wolofs  from  Goree  and  Kufisque,  variously  interaiingled  with  Europeans, 
Mandingans,  and  Fulahs.  llecently  also  African  frecdmeu  from  the  Niger,  from 
the  Slave  Coast,  and  from  Sierra- Leone  have  emigrated  into  the  Gambia  territory, 
where,  being  mostly  Protestants,  they  hold  aloof  from  the  Wolofs,  and  compete 
severely  with  them   especially  as  retail  dealers. 

Being  hemmed  in  between  the  French  St  negambian  possessions  and  the  southern 
rivers,  the  English  trade  in  the  Gambia  basin  is  but  of  secondary  importance, 
the  exchanges  not  exceeding  £1()0,()00  altogether.  Although  the  Gambia  ])resent8 
the  shortest  natural  highway  to  the  interior  and  to  the  Upper  Senegal,  it  has, 
nevertheless,  become  a  sort  of  ctd-de-sac,  affording  but  few  uu  ans  of  communica- 
tion between  the  inland  populations  and  the  markets  on  the  coast.  The  trade  also, 
which  since  the  middle  of  the  century  consists  mostly  of  ground-nuts,  has  to  a 
large  extent  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  Freiu'h,  whose  influence  must  necessarily 
increase  whenever  effect  is  given  to  the  treaties  comduded  by  the  French  Govern- 
ment with  Futa-Jallon,  and  especially  when  the  projected  railway  is  constructed 
from  Rufiscpie  to  Kaolak.  Politically  and  commercially,  the  Gambia  will  then  be 
encircled  by  territories  subject  to  the  suzerainty  of  France,  "  like  a  mouse  in  the 
jaws  of  a  cat,"  as  Mitcbinson  expresses  it  in  "  The  Expiring  Continent."     In  1881 


i 


170 


WKST  AFUU'A. 


FriiniT  «'Von  iiccniiivd  the  Hovcroi^'iih-  of  Ht'lt'-dii^ru,  ii  disfrict  (.n  tho  <iiiinl)iiin 
sloj)."  where  tli.>  (Jaiiihiu  mid  Fali'-in.-.  with  th.ir  iiiiiitVrnus  nlMuciits,  uir  sepaialed 
by  »  space  «»f  not  more  than  W  miles.  Hence  it  has  often  heeii  projiuM-d  to 
exchange  the  (iund.ia  for  some  Vwiwh  tenitory  nearer  to  Sierru-lA'one  or  to  Capo 


FiK-  't-     IIathiuht  and  Knthanck  or  thk  (Jamiua. 


Sc.lli-  I  :    KHIOO. 


0tol6 

Feet. 


DeptliH. 


16  to  32 
Feet. 


32  Feet  and 
upwards. 


.  G  Miles. 


Coast,  whereby  the  Salum  seaboard  would  be  politically  united  with  that  of  the 
Casamauza. 

TorooRAi'HY. 

Bnthurst,  or,  as  it  was  originally  called,  Leopohf,  capital  of  the  English  posses- 
sions, was  founded  in  ISlG,  on  the  island  of  Saint-Mary,  which  forms  the  southern 
point  of  the  lands  at  the  entrance  of  the  Gambia.  The  town  was  laid  out  with  a 
certain  elegance,  houses  and  barracks  being  solidly  built  on  a  site  conveniently 


rr-;?.  r.-|^:S^?,:;:.^C-?E-^K'-V;^:^':*5"i^''"^.'-^^-'^1--^ 


TIISTUKT  OK  KANTOU. 


177 


Bituatod  for  tnidt'.  wlu'io  VfSHoIs  can  Vw  at  aiiclinr  cl.wc  in  shoro  in  70  uv  SO  foot, 
of  wator.  15iil  llu-  placo  i«  t-xtroiiu-ly  unhoaltliy,  tlw  island  l»finn:  surioundod  and 
inti'rM««(tt'd  by  pcHtih-utial  clianiu'lH  and  stagnant  watns.  At  Ichs  than  M  tVot  Ironi 
thi'  snrfact;  brackish  water  is  found  everywhere,  and  the  current  is  c(.nstanlly 
tlireateninj;  the  very  ftmn(hiti(ins  of  the  town.  Neverthehss,  over  tliree  thoiisaml 
Yohis  or  Feluhs— (hat  is.  Coast  Ne^rioes— Mandin^rans,  Serers,  and  Woh.fs,  are 
crowded  lo;;ethef  in  this  "  water-h.^K" d"  town.  The  British  (ioverntnent  still 
pays  a  .small  v.arly  pension  to  the  chief  of  the  Combo  Maiidinf,'ans,  .ylio  o<cupy  the 
coast  as  far  south  ,»«  the  CuMnniiin/a.  Tiie  health  resort  lies  in  the  (Jombo  territory, 
7  miles  west  of  Mailiurst,  ut  Cape  St.  Mary,  noar  the  villajnM.f  liarotr,  on  a  cliff 
risin<.r  oO  feet  abovo  the  sea.  Hero  tho  invigoiatinpf  mariuo  breo/o,  jocularly  culled 
the  "  Doctor,"  prevails  for  seveial  hours  during,'  the  day,  carrying  olf  the  exhala- 
tions from  the  swumps  of  the  (Jami)ia.  It  has  often  been  proposed  to  removo  the 
capital  to  Cape  St.  Mury,  but  the  iinchoruge  is  bud,  und  the  coast  i«  here  obstructed 
by  Haiidbanks. 

North-east  of  Hathurst  the  butteries  of  Forf  Jiu/frii,  otcvUhI  at  IJarra  Toint, 
command  the  north  entrance  of  tho  Gambia.  iVll  this  part  of  the  const,  for  a  width 
of  over  a  mile,  belongs  to  Great  Hritain,  which,  however,  levies  no  du-^s,  so  that  all 
pi-oduee  is  exported  free  of  charge  to  the  French  ports  in  Senegal.  The  strip  of 
British  territory  begins  at  the  Jimak  Crook,  9  miles  north  of  Fort  lUillon,  and 
follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Gambia,  thence  to  and  beyond  the  Mandingun 
village  of  Jim/ri  {Gilfrai),  noar  which  place  the  English  had  their  chief  factory 
before  the  foundation  of  Bathurst.  The  trading  station  of  Alhmhi  still  enjoys 
some  importance,  and  was  formerly  a  strategic  point  of  great  value,  thank.s 
to  the  suns  of  Fort  Jamen,  erected  in  mid-stream  20  miles  above  Hathurst.  In 
1()!)H  Andre  Hriie  founded  a  French  factory  at  Albreda,  which,  about  the  middle  of 
this  century,  was  ceded  to  England  in  exchange  for  Portendik,  on  tho  IJerber  coast. 
In  tho  botanical  world  Albreda  is  famous  for  its  magniliceut  tig-tree,  forming  a 
group  of  several  steams  with  a  joint  circumference  of  l-'W  feet. 

Farther  up,  Ekphant  Inland,  at  the  chief  bend  of  the  lower  Gambia  below  the 
large  village  of  Y<imuut,  is  tho  market  for  the  Diara  country.  Georyrtown,  in 
MucCurthy's  Island,  some  miles  higher  up,  collects  most  of  the  produce  from  the 
Niani  and  Ulli  districts  in  the  north,  from  Diamaru  and  Tumane  in  the  south. 
MucCurthy's  Island  corresponds  on  the  Gambia  to  Fort  Bakol  on  the  Senegal, 
being  occupied  not  by  soldiers,  but  by  a  .small  body  of  police,  the  last  established 
bv  the  English  in  this  Uisin.  Some  '2-)  miles  farther  inland  are  the  ruins  of 
Pimiiia,  the  village  chosen  by  Mungo  Park  as  his  starting-point  during  his  first 
voyage  in  1706.  Still  higher  up  arc  the  ruins  of  Medina,  former  capital  of  the 
Ulli  Mundingans,  and  near  it  the  trading  station  of  Faffa  Tcuda,  whence  come  the 
best  ground-nuts.  Boats  ascend  the  river  at  all  seasons  to  Yarhu  Tenda,  a  little- 
beyond  this  point. 

District  of  Kaxtor. 

One  of  the  southern  districts  about  the  sources  of  the  Casamanza  bears  the 


^ 


% 


'i 


I 


178 


WEST  AFIUCA. 


name  of  Kautoni,  recalling  the  market  of  h'nifor,  of  wliieli  the  early  Portuguese 
writers  speak  as  a  centre  Of  tratHc  rivalling  Timbuktu  itself.  At  that  time  the 
whole  region  of  the  Gambia  was  called  by  them  the  kingdom  of  K.mtor  or 
Kontor.  "vt  the  time  of  Gouldsbury's  visit  in  1S7!),  not  a  village  remained  in  the 
district,  which  had  been  laid  waste  by  the  combined  forces  of  the  IJnndu  and 
Labe  Fnlahs,  and  most  of  the  inhabitants  carried  into  bondage.  Above  the 
liarra-kunda  rapids,  traders  generally  follow  the  land  route  towards  Hondu  and 
liambuk,  although  the  two  large  villages  of  Jalh-Kota  and  Bmli  have  their  ports 
on  the  river. 


^1 

'I 
'1 


I    il 


i| 


Administration. 

Gambia  has  been  under  the  direct  administration  of  Great  Britain  only  since 
1821,  before  which  year  the  factories  were  managed  by  a  chartered  company. 
The  revenue,  derived  almost  exclusively  from  customs,  averages  £2n,0m,  and  in 
188(i  there  was  not  only  no  public  debt,  but  a  balance  in  hand  equal  to  a  year's 
income.  The  cost  of  Gouldsbury's  important  expedition  was  defrayt^d  out  of  a 
sur])lus  of  revenue.  Since  1870  no  military  forces  arc  maintained  in  the 
settlement,  and  the  police,  HI  men,  commanded  by  a  European,  are  nearly  all 
natives  of  Sierra-Leone.  The  volunteer  corps  charged  with  the  defence  of  the 
territory  has  not  vet  had  occasion  to  be  called  oiit.  When  a  tribal  war  ari.ses, 
the  Government  dechu-es  itself  neutral,  but  the  belligerents  bear  in  mind  that  the 
English  factories  and  river  craft  must  be  respected  by  both  sides.  All  the 
schools  are  denominational-Protestant.  Catholic,  or  ^lohammedan-and  as  such 
independent  of  the  civil  power.  Nevertheless  most  of  the  chihlren  attend 
regularly,  except  in  the  trading  season,  when  they  accompany  their  parents  to 
the  factories. 

Casamanza  Basin. 

The  Casimanza,  so  named  from  the  manzn  (mansa)  or  sovereign  of  the  Casa 
(Cassa)  people,  is  on  the  whole  much  more  of  an  estuary  than  a  river.  Its 
sources,  at  the  foot  of  the  Khabu  terraces,  have  not  yet  been  visited,  but  they 
certainly  do  not  lie  more  than  180  miles  inland,  as  the  bird  Hies,  for  the  district 
farther 'east,  traversed  by  Gouldsbury  in  1881,  already  belongs  to  the  Gambia 
basin.  Confined  north  and  south  between  the  two  parallel  depressions  of  the 
Gambia  and  Rio-Cacheo  valleys,  the  Casamanza  basin  has  an  area  of  probably 
not   more    than   (5,000    square   miles,   with   a   population    roughly  estimated   at 

100.000. 

Since  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  the  Portuguese  have  traded  in  this 
region.  They  were  even  early  acquainted  with  inland  trade  routes,  leading 
across  the  creeks  and  portages  to  the  Salfmi.and  some  Portuguese  terms  surviving 
in  the  local  dialects  attest  their  former  influence.  But  their  chief  trade  being  in 
slaves,  they  could  scarcely  venture  much  beyond  the  enclosures  of  their  fortified 


■rr^,r^\rrrtiCi^i:'t^th'^'^1^'''^^*%'W^!^*''^-^ 


CASAMAXZA  BASIN. 


179 


stations,  and  as  the  districts  became  depopulated  thev  had  frecpiently  to  shift  the 
site  of  their  factories. 

The  Hnglish  also  founded  some  stations  on  the  banks  of  the  Casamanza,  but 
never  purchased  any  lands  from  tlu'  surroundiiifif  tribes.  The  French  made  iheir 
first  aetpiisition  in  18"JS,  althou<,'h  no  settlement  was  made  in  the  island  of 
Jogue,  north  of  the  estuary,  which  was  at  that  time  ceded  to  them.  But  in  ]XW 
and  1S;}7  they  occu])ie(l  the  two  islands  of  Carabane  and  (numbering,  commanding 
the  southern  entrance  of  the  estuary,  and  also  founded  the  station  of  Sedhiu,  at  the 
head  of  the  deep-sea  navigation.  Since  that  time  numerous  treaties  with  the 
riverain  tribes  have  secured  to  them  the  suzerainty  or  possession  of  nearly  the 
whole  basin,  and  the  convention  signed  with  Portugal  in  l^Sd  accurately  defines 
the  frontier  line  of  the  French  and  Portuguese  territories  between  the  Casamanza 
and  Cacheo  rivers.  The  station  of  Ziguinchor,  the  last  renniant  of  Lusitanian 
power  in  the  Casamanza  basin,  was  then  ceded  to  France,  while  eastwards  the 
French  domain  was  virtually  extended  across  the  unexi)lored  wastes  of  Firdu  and 
Khabu  towards  the  Upper  Gambia  and  Faleme.  Thus  the  Casanuinza  is  hence- 
forth regarded  as  belonging  politically  to  the  Upper  Senegal  basin. 

At  Sedhiu,  105  miles  from  the  sea,  the  estuary  has  still  a  mean  breadth  of  at 
least  1^  mile;  but  it  is  so  shallow  that  craft  drawing  G  feet  have  to  jjroceed  very 
cautiously,  or  follow  a  channel  buoyed  at  intervals  with  branches  of  trees.  Above 
Sedhiu  boats  penetrate  for  some  GO  miles,  to  the  village  of  Kolibanta ;  below  it  the 
Casamanza  is  joined  only  by  one  large  affluent,  the  Songrogu  (probably  the 
I'ortuguese  Sam-Gregorio),  which  rises  in  a  marshy  district  near  the  Gambia 
basin.  Below  the  Songrogu  confluence,  which  is  nearly  U  miles  wide  during  the 
floods,  the  lateral  channels  become  more  and  more  numerous,  forming  a  navigable 
network  of  some  hundred  miles  shifting  with  the  seasons  and  years,  rising  and 
fallino-  rtith  the  dailv  ebb  and  flow.  The  water  is  everywhere  brackish  us  far  as 
and  beyond  Ziguinchor,  45  miles  from  the  coast.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  delta 
the  channels  and  backwaters  communicate  iu  one  direction  with  the  Gambia,  in 
another  with  the  Cacheo  estuary.  But  notwithstanding  all  these  inhind  crossings 
and  intersections,  the  seaboard  preserves  a  straight  line  from  Cape  St.  Mary  to 
Cape  Boxo,  where  begin  those  intricate  indentations  so  characteristic  of  all  the 
coastlands  in  Portuguese  territory.  The  bar  of  the  Casamanza,  which  first  breaks 
the  regular  shore-line,  is  very  shallow,  with  scarcely  more  than  G  or  7  feet  at  low 
water  and  with  three  constantly  shifting  sills.  The  extensive  liverain  forests 
abound  in  game,  and  are  infested  by  few  rapacious  animals. 


''■•fa 


^ 


lLM,k 


Hi 


lNH.\Hn'ANTS   OF    THK    CaSAMANZA. 

In  the  upper  reaches  the   dominant  peoples  are  the  Khabun'ke,  or  "  Khabu- 
men,"  and  the  Mandiugans,  here  also  called  Suzi,  the  Sossays  of  the  early  writers 
Advancing  constantly  from  the  east,  they  have  driven  before  them  the  aboriginal 
inhabitants ;  but  their  progress  has  been  arrested  by  the  French,  and  they  have 
now  ceased  to  press  upon  the  coast  people,  just  as  they  have  themselves  been 


.jjlV.*!, 


}.< 


ii   i 


180 


WEST  ArillCA. 


relicvcfl  from  iho  pncrouchnu'nts  of  the  inlnucl  I'^ulalis.  Tn  tlio  rasamanza  hasin 
the  Maiidiimans  foim  ])c11y  (ili<>iircluc  states  adiiiiiiistn-od  by  two  diffiiitaries, 
tlic  alcaty  (cadi),  uiilitary  cliii'f,  and  the  almaiiy,  spiritual  head  of  the  ])(nj)k\ 

lk'si(U'  the  Mandiiif-aiis  dwell  the  Fulah  pastors  and  the  Sarakole  agricul- 
turists, wlio  had  Itoth  aeeonipanied  iheiu  on  their  advanee  from  the  interior,  and 
wlio  afterwai-ds  founded  ninnerous  settlements  about  the  French  stations.  Here 
tliey  contracted  alliances  with  runaway  female  slaves,  thus  giving  rise  to  the 
present  lialf-custes. 

Other  diMricts  were  occupied  by  the  iJalauta  intruders  from  the  Geba  basin, 
who,  after  liiying  waste  certain  parts  of  lludhie  and  Yassin  on  the  north,  have 
settled   down   on   the   south   side   of  the   Casanum/.a  below   Sedhiu,   driving  the 


i|t 


:ii 


If; 


Fig.  75. — Tbihes  or  the  Casamanza. 
Scale  1 :  1,3UO,000. 


1 6°  so- 


West  of  Greenwich 


0  tn  in 

Feet. 


Depths. 


lA  to  33 
Keet. 


82  Feet  and 
upwards. 
18  Miles. 


ill 


nil 


liugnun  aborigines  farther  west.  A  branch  of  the  Bagnuns  are  the  Tassa  or 
('us,sanga  tribe,  wiio  give  their  name  to  the  river,  and  who.se  former  capital, 
Jirikam,  nearly  destroyed  by  the  Halantas,  is  still  seen  on  the  left  bank,  above  the 
Soiigrogu  conHueuce. 

The  Bagnuns  are  of  middle  size,  much  smaller  than  the  Wolofs,  but  taller  than 
the  Felups,  with  very  broad  Negro  features,  large  mouth  and  depressed  nose. 
JiiUe  certain  American  tribes,  they  might  be  called  Orejoncs,  or  "long-eared;" 
for  they  pierce  the  lobe  in  several  places,  introducing  bits  of  bamboo  which  gradu- 
ally distend  the  cartilage  down  to  the  shoulders.  Th(>y  also  file  their  teeth  to  a 
point,  like  most  of  the  coast  tribes,  and  deck  themselves  with  copper  bracelets  and 
other  oruameuts  of  that  metal.      From  the  Mobammcduu  marabouts  they  procure 


:•  v.Tfi:^ivrH3S!'«TJB;55P:-a^?^«?^PMX-5TOP;^•WJ«»fla^sw«l»:^!S^^ 


S\i^,3\tfr/ 


FELUP  TYPES. 


i1 


r 


i: 

ill 


I 

•>■■  : 


'1 

'I 


4' ' 
!i|m 


Hil 


Ulil 

ill 


.  '11 


fL 


-7"!**^      .^^    ^'^^y^'p 


■^!;^f^srii^-rri;^f^!^smfr'm!?03mmm^M¥ 


gss^r    r« 


CASAMANZA  HASIX. 


181 


charms,  and  holy  incthils  from  the  Porlupiiosr  |(ru'sts,  and  suhjcct  to  the  onhal  of 
jMUHoniiif^  thoso  iiccuscd  of  hewifchinjj;  iiicii  or  animals.  The  old  matriarchal 
usages  still  prevail  among  them,  as  among  most  of  the  tribes  along  th"  coast. 
Iiank  and  property  are  transmitted  in  the  fenude  line,  and  the  women  join  in  the 
village  deliberations,  often  exercising  a  decisive  influence  on  the  i;;sue. 

The  coast  peoples,  hemmed  in  hy  the  invaders  from  the  interior,  have  received 
from  the  Portuguese  the  collective  name  of  Felups,  and  they  certaiidy  show  a  com- 
mon affinity  in  tlu>ir  usages  and  language,  liut  they  have  h)st  all  national  coher- 
ence, and  are  now  broken  up  into  a  multitude  of  distinct  clans,  each  with  its  tribal 
name  and  separate  territory,  mostly  scmie  island  or  peninsula  in  the  delta.  West- 
wards, near  the  sea,  dwell  the  Aiamuts,  Yolas,  Kabils  or  Karons;  fiirther  east, 
but  north  of  the  Casainanza,  the  .ligushes  or  Juguts,  the  P'ognis,  the  Kainuits,  and 
those  Felups  of  the  Songrogu,  whose  larg(>  heads  have  earned  for  them  tlie  Portu- 
guese name  of  Vacas.  South  of  the  river  follow  the  J{anjiars,  Fuluns,  and 
IJayots,  these  lieing  most  distinguished  by  their  speech  and  diminutive  stature 
from  all  the  Felup  peoples. 

From  a  former  higher  period  of  culture  most  of  the  Felups  have  preserved  the 
art  of  erecting  relatively  large  and  comfortable  dwellings,  very  substantial  eartli 
houses  whi(di  resist  the  weather  for  years,  and  which  are  divided  into  several 
compartments  in  the  intei-ior.  The  Felups,  on  the  riglit  bunk  of  the  river,  build 
very  large  and  shapely  canoes  with  the  trunk  of  the  bombax,  and  manufacture 
airows,  darts,  and  swords,  which  they  use  with  much  skill  Jhit  the  social  and 
political  bonds  are  very  loose,  every  hamlet,  so  to  say,  constituting  a  separate 
state.  Even  family  ties  are  easily  formed  and  as  easily  dissolved,  and  in  some 
places  the  children  are  destined  beforehand  to  serve  in  the  household  of  the  vilhige 
chief. 

Most  of  <he  Felups  have  the  idea  of  a  supreme  being,  who,  for  them,  is  at  once 
the  heaven,  the  rain,  the  wind,  and  the  storm.  Ruled  by  terror,  they  are  u  prey  to 
the  medicine-men,  and  nowhere  (dse  in  Africa  are  the  wizards  more  invoked  and 
more  hated.  They  are  accused  of  killing  by  their  malevolent  arts  and  philtres,  and 
they  are  at  times  themselves  seized  and  tortured  to  death.  But  social  changes 
are  gradually  taking  place  amongst  the  Felup  popidatitms  settled  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  European  factories,  and  employed  by  the  traders  as  carriers. 

T()P()GR.\PIIY. 

In  the  Casamanza  basin  the  chief  military  and  commercial  station  is  Scdhiu, 
called  also  Frances- Kuiida  ("  House  of  the  French  "),  which  since  its  foundation  in 
1837  on  the  right  bank,  at  the  head  of  the  navigation,  has  become  a  real  town 
with  European  buildings  and  extensive  depots.  Some  native  villages  have  sprung 
up  round  about,  whence  are  obtained  ample  supplies  of  pnjvi^iions  of  all  sorts. 
Zifjidnc/ior,  the  old  Portuguese  station  ceded  to  France  by  the  recent  treaty,  and 
situated  on  the  left  bank,  below  the  Songrogu  confluence,  occupies  a  favourable 
position  for  the  overland  trade  between  the  Gambia  and  Cacheo  basins.     On  the 


182 


WE8T  AFRICA. 


sinnc  sido,  but  much  lower  dawii,  lies  Smnt-Gi'ot'ncx,  in  a  fertile  district  exposed  to 
the  refn>s]iiii<r  sea-hrie/es.  ]hu  the  larjrest  plaee  in  the  delta  region  is  Carabane 
at  tlie  northern  extremity  of  the  islmd  of  like  name,  which  may  be  conii)arcd  to 
IJatlmrst  tor  its  watery  .soil  and  insahibiious  climate. 

Some  six  miles  to  the  south-oast  *ii  Carabane  stands  the  old  Knglish  factory  of 
Lhirohi,  which  has  become  tho  wrc'tehed  village  of  Elinhin,  inhabited  by  the  rilf- 
rufl  of  various  popuhitions,  much  dreaded  by  their  neighbours. 

GriNK roKTtfUKSK    PoSSKSSIOXS    IX    SEXKfiA.MlllA. 

Tiie  geographical  expression  (Juine  (Guinea)  applied  by  the  early  Portuguese 
nivigators  to  the  whole  of  the  West  African  seaboard,  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Senegal  to  that  of  the  Orange,  has  gradually  lost  this  comprehensive  signification. 
According  as  the  coast-lands  became  better  known  they  received  more  special 
designations,  and  in  ordinary  usage  tho  term  Guiue  is  now  restricted  to  the 
Portuguese  possessions  bet weeii  the  ( 'usamanza  and  Componi  basins.  The  recent 
convention  with  Franco  has  sharply  delimitated  these  possessions,  not  by  natural 
features  such  as  rivers  and  mountains,  but  by  degrees  of  latitude  and  longitude. 
The  teriitory,  if  not  alreudy  subjected  to  Portugal,  at  least  a.ssigned  to  her  future 
sway,  may  be  estimated  at  about  17,000  square  miles,  while  in  1HS5  the  portion 
really  occupied  did  not  exceed  30  square  miles,  with  a  total  population  of  some 
10,000.  Even  the  inhabitants  of  the  whole  region  cannot  number  much  more 
than  loOjOOO,  notwithstanding  the  exaggerated  statements  of  some  Portuguese 
writers.  At  the  sume  time  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  millions  might  be  supported 
in  this  fertile  territory,  which  is  abundantly  watered  by  the  rivers  descending 
from  the  Futa-Jallon  highlands. 

Portuguese  Senegambia  lies  entirely  within  the  zone  of  fjord-like  iivers  and 
estuaries,  carved  out  by  the  waves  into  numerous  peninsulas  and  archipehigoes, 
still  limited  westwards  by  the  ancient  coastline.  These  various  streams,  rising  on 
the  uplands  for  the  most  part  to  the  east  of  the  Franco-Portuguese  frontier,  are 
very  copious  in  proportion  to  the  extent  of  their  basins,  and  like  the  Casamanza 
and  other  northern  arteries,  may  be  ascended  by  shipping  far  into  the  interior. 

The  Cacheo,  northernmost  of  these  streams,  called  also  Rio  de  Farim  and  De 
Santo  Domingos,  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  Casamanza,  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  a  gently  undulating  tract  with  a  mean  breadth  of  ;24  miles.  In 
their  lower  course  the  two  estuaries  intermingle  their  waters  through  an  intricate 
system  of  channels  and  marshlands,  beyond  which  the  Cacheo  enters  the  sea 
through  a  wide  mouth  ob.structed  by  a  muddy  sill. 

The  Geba,  south  of  the  Cacheo,  rises  as  the  Ba-Diemba  in  the  unexplored 
region  limited  eastward  by  the  headwaters  of  the  Gambia,  flowing  thenf :  p.-'allel 
with  the  Cacheo,  but  soon  losing  its  fluvial  aspect.  For  a  space  of  over  ()0  miles 
it  develops  a  wide  estiniry  like  a  great  arm  of  the  sea,  accessible  to  vessels  of 
considerable  draught  and  no  less  than  10  miles  wide  at  its  mouth.  In  fiont  of  this 
mouth  are  scattered  the  Bissagos  islets  and  reefs,  forming  a  vast  labyrinth  of 


■■"mWPi^^-mi  ■   .'"-«»iiS<:K;.%m«K-.#35S.S£ST^S5£7«!W»<5!^ 


Gumfi.  183 

channels  dangerous  to  navigation,  but  which  may  be  avoided  by  one  of  the  lateral 


s 

O 

H 
- 


passages  communicating  directly  with  the  Geba.     Farther  south  this  system  of 


184 


\Vi:.SX  Al^UICA. 


I  n 


cliannols  int'r<»os  in  tlio  Ifio-riraiido  estuarv,  less  spai-ious  than  that  of  the  Gcba, 
althi»ii>;li  the  lattt-r  appears  to  be  uuieh  the  smaller  liver  of  the  two. 

Thf,  Ri()-Gham)i;. 

The  Kio-Graiule,  called  also  the  (Juinala,  ai)pears  to  bo  the  chief  waterway  in 
Portii^ueso  Senef^aiubia.  It  is  suppo>e(l  to  rise  on  the  same  plateau  as  the 
(ianibia,  flo\vin<>:  not  east  but  west,  and  under  the  name  of  the  (.'omba  eoUeetinf;- 
numerous  torrents  from  the  ruta-JuUon  highlands.  ( >f  these  the  lar<j;est  is  the 
Tomine,  which  also  <j^athers  its  first  waters  from  the  nei<,'hbourh(Ktd  of  Labe. 
One  of  the  districts  traversed  by  it  is  intersected  by  such  a  number  of  rivulets 
that  it  takes  the  name  of  Doubol,  that  is,  "Land  of  Waters."  Kveii  in  the  dry 
season  it  has  a  discharfj;e  of  over  350  cnbic  feet  per  second  at  !»()  miles  from  its 
source,  where  it  winds  thronf>:h  a  broad  valley  skirted  on  both  sides  by  i-litVs  from 
H'jO  to  1,000  feet  high,  above  which  rise  the  escarpments  of  the  granite  rocks, 
presenting  the  appearance  of  superimposed  bastions.  Lower  down  the  Tominu 
leaves  the  region  of  primitive  rocks,  trending  northwards  to  the  Coniba  through 
bhukish  sandstone  and  ferruginous  quartz  walls  furrowed  at  intervals  by  the 
rocky  beds  of  wild  mountain  torrents. 

|{elow  the  Tomine-Comba  confluence  the  united  stream  deserves  its  Portuguese 
name  of  Rio-Grande,  for  here  it  is  already  a  "  great  river,"  as  attested  by  Goubls- 
bury  and  other  travellers,  who  crossed  towards  the  head  of  the  bend  it  describes 
from  north  to  west,  parallel  with  the  Geba.  But  in  this  district  a  part  of  its  course 
no  less  than  00  miles  long  remains  still  to  be  exjjlored,  so  that  it  is  somewhut 
doubtful  whether  the  Comba  discharges  into  the  Rio-Grande  estuary,  or  flows  north- 
west to  the  Geba.  Rut  as  figured  on  the  maps  the  Rio-Grande  would  comprise  the 
whole  of  the  Tomine  basin,  with  u  total  length  of  about  450  miles.  The  tides, 
which  ascend  CO  miles  into  the  interior,  convert  the  lower  reaches  into  un 
intricate  system  of  saline  channels  winding  round  a  number  of  marshy  alluvial 
islands,  which  are  continued  seawards  by  the  Rissagos  archipelago. 

Farther  south  the  seaboard  is  broken  into  peninsulas  and  projecting  headlands 
bv  several  creeks  or  streams  terminating  in  estuaries,  and  all  flowing  parallel  to 
each  other  from  north-east  to  south-west.  Of  these  the  Cassini  alone  deserves  the 
name  of  river.  Rising  120  miles  from  the  coast  in  the  hilly  region  west  of  the 
Tomin(^  basin,  it  enters  the  sea  through  a  funnel-shaped  inlet  accessible  to  the 
largest  vessels  for  30  miles. 


The  Bissagos  Archipelago. 

The  Bissagos  Islands,  which  were  formerly  attached  to  the  mainland,  differ 
from  the  other  insular  formations  only  in  their  more  seaward  position,  and  in  the 
greater  breadth  of  the  intervening  channels,  which  have  not  yet  been  thoroughly 
explored.  The  group,  which  is  defended  seaward  by  a  line  of  dangerous  breakers, 
comprises  about  thirty  islets  of  various  size,  besides  innumerable  yeefs,  many  of 


■  •-"«^B*Wr-SS'«?».w.?'e»,W1S»f-SW^^»H^^iSPSJ^^ 


.m.-  .*■>    "3tiJ^SS(«P5S®»^  .«^- 


THE  15ISSA0OS  AKriIIPET-AO(l. 


185 


which  are  flooded  or  docoinijosed  into  HiToiidarv  islets  by  the  tides,  which  here  rise 

1;{  or  1  1  feet.     Thus  at  h)W  water  Ciij^imbuc  forms  continuous  hind  with  I'orcosaiid 

(Junibana,   while   Gallinhas,   Formosa,   Tonta,  Corbelha   become  attached    to   the 

neighltoinin;,'    lands.      The   archii)ela<,'o,    the   navi<;ation    oi    which    is    rendered 

e.vtrenii'lv   dan^a-rous    by    the    stronjr   currents    and    shiftinj,'    cluiracter   of    the 

channels,   terminates    wouthward    in    tlie    isolated  Alcy*'az,   or  "  I'elican  "    rock, 

round     which      hover     dense 

Fig.  77.  — BI.^s.voo8  Anriiiri-.i.vcio. 

Scitlc  1  ;  .s,o(in,i>oo. 


le*:^ 


clouds  of  aquatic  birds. 

Uvdiiiio,  or  JIuramj,  largest 
member  of  the  group,  is 
mostly  sandy,  with  a  scant 
vegetation,  whereas  the;  others 
are  generally  c(»veic(l  with  tall 
))alms  and  gigantic  baobabs, 
which  from  u  distanco  seem  to 
irrow  riirht  out  of  the  water. 
All  the  islands  uro  low,  and 
disjK).sed  in  the  direction  from 
north-west  to  south-east 
parallel  with  the  mainland. 
Ikdcher  and  the  other  early 
explorers  described  the  group 
as  volcanic,  but  the  rocks  sup- 
posed by  them  to  be  eruptive 
were  probably  ferruginous 
clays,  aiKilogous  to  those  on 
the  West  African  seaboard. 
The  islands,  mere  fragments 
of  the  old  coast,  consist  of  the 
same  ft  >i  mat  ions  and  ])resent 
identical  features.  Whether 
through  erosion  or  slow  subsi- 
dence, the  sea  has  encroached 
on  the  land,  converting  penin- 
sulas into  islands,  islands  into 
reefs  and  banks,  the  lower 
reaches  of  the  rivers  into 
estuaries,  and  these  into 
marine  iidets.     During   these 

secular  transftjrmations  numerous  animal  and  vegetable  species  have  had  to  adapt 
themselves  to  the  slowly  changing  environment.  Such  is  the  hippopotamus, 
elsewhere  rarely  seen  far  from  freshwater  streams,  but  which  Belcher  met 
on  the  south-west  coast  of  Caguabac  (Kauabak),  over  30  miles  from  the  coast 
rivers. 

76— AF 


0to62 
Fept 


l>(>plli8. 


62  to  -SW 


320  Feet  (ind 
iipwaiilH. 


.  (in  Miles. 


m 


Hn 


f 


I 


186 


WKST   AKUICA. 


'M 


li-!i 


ri.IMATK  —  Kl.oKA — FaI  X  \. 

The  ( liinalc  (if  (iiiiiK'  diUcrs  in  iii>  icspcct  Irnm  tliat  nt  the  (iaiiiliia  and  (asa- 
nianxa,  ('\cc])t  thai  llu  inc. in  ti-nipcraturc  is  lii<,'licr  and  siil)j»<«l  to  jjrcatcr 
extremes,  wliitli  is  dnnlitless  due  tn  the  proximity  ot  the  liilly  uphinds  in  the 
interior.  .Near  tiie  coast  thejjhiss  falls  at  nij;lit  sometimes  to  o-i  F.,  oscilhilinjj  in 
the  cold  season,  from  Novemhcr  t(»  .laniiarv,  lu-tweeu  W  and  ■")!>  F.  after  sunset, 
and  in  the  dav  risinj,'  to  77  ,  S(l  ,  and  even  lid.  lint  at  other  times  the  teni- 
])i'ratnre  is  much  more  uniform,  showing'  for  the  whole  year  a  mean  of  7S~^  at 
Hissao.  The  rainfall,  iir)t  yet  accurately  measured,  in  very  <M)nsiderahle,  the  wet 
NOUS  m,  accompanied  by  frecpient  thunderstonn.s  and  heavy  (lowni)ours,  lastinj;  for 
nearlv  five  months,  fntm  the  middle  of  May  to  the  end  of  Septemher. 

Notwithstandinj;  this  copious  rainfall  the  forests  are  le.^s  dense  and  continuous 
than  in  the  tropical  re<jions  of  the  New  World.  Extensive  tracts,  evi-n  in  the 
Hissaffos  Islands,  are  crowned  hy  rinnpiinis,  or  savannahs  of  tall  };ras>es  or  iceds, 
above  which  rises  here  and  there  in  isolated  majesty  a  solitary  giant,  in  one  place 
a  palm,  in  another  a  baohah  or  a  butter-tree.  Hehind  the  numgrove-fringed  banks 
of  the  e.stuarics  begins  the  forest  proper,  including  a  great  variety  of  species,  sueh 
us  acacias,  datoandoil  palms,  and  the  so-(!alled  "  rain-tree,"  whose  foliage,  (  o)eciully 
at  sudden  falls  of  temperature,  c(tllect8  the  night  dew  and  precipitates  it  .l^^  ruin  in 
the  morning. 

The  fauna,  richer  than  that  of  Senegal,  belongs  to  the  zone  of  e(piatorial  Sudan, 
including  numerous  species  of  the  ape  family,  amongst  which  the  chimpan/eeis  said 
to  be  found.  Several  huge  animals,  such  as  the  girafi'e,  zebra,  and  apparently  the 
ohiphant,  have  disajipeared,  although  the  hipj)opotamus,  wild  ox  {hos  hrnchi/cerox), 
leoi)ard,  and  crocodile  still  abound.  Birds  are  very  nuni' reus,  and  nowhere  else 
in  Africa  do  the  termites  build  such  large  ccmipact  ant-hiii. ,  mostly  pyramidal  in 
shape  and  hard  as  stone.  AH  the  creeks  and  estuaries  are  well  stocked  with  tihh, 
yielding  abundant  .sapplies  of  food  to  the  natives. 


Inhabitants. 

These  natives  form  a  perfect  chaos  of  small  groups,  each  with  its  distinctive 
name,  but  otherwise  without  any  ethnical  value,  and  liable  to  constant  fluctuations 
with  the  changes  brought  about  by  migrations,  alliances,  and  conquest.  Ilenee 
the  discrepancies  in  the  statements  of  travellers  who  have  vLsited  the  country  at 
different  j)eriods.  Of  the  nine  distinct  nations  nu>ntioned  by  ])e  liarros,  three 
only,  the  IJiafars,  Papels,  .nid  Hujagos,  are  comprised  entirely  within  the  Portu- 
guese possessions.  The  Fuhihs  and  Mandingaiis  are  intruders  from  the  east,  while 
the  Felups,  Balantas,  Bagnuns,  and  kindred  Buramos  (Brames)  are  met  also  on 
the  Casanumza,  and  the  Nalus  in  the  Rio  Nunez  and  Cassim  basins. 

Besides  the  Fulahs  proper,  this  region  luis  been  invaded  by  the  half-caste 
Falan  prcfon,  or  "Black  Fulahs,"  resembling  the  Toucouleurs  of  French  Scnegambia. 
Of  the  indigenous  peoples,  the  Buluutus,  occupying  most  of  the  space  between  the 


r.^y-;.',W"^vi::l 


I  .'-^*"M&-t*--'E5;r-.-*st  '.M^ = ;J».SJ«*^^«'^saMS*^5?i;*f ,rei!eK»«»^<?«'^:R**'^'^^?i^y^P«?'GM,^^ 


IN'HAIUTANTH  OF  tJl  187 

iiiifldlc  rasninan/a  and  tho  (ii'ba  oKtuaiy,  aro  th«'  in     i  vali    .it,  and   ini^ht  form  a 


Siiijisjiiiii 


li« 


ii* 


iiiiiiiiiiiip^ 


il 


liillsisiif 

11  i  I  ii::''''''™''''*^^ 


2 


■■3 

A 


ifii 


powerful  nation  but  for  their  numerous  and  often  hostile  tribal  subdivisions.     Each 


.-•':-     '■,rf'^4C'^'' 


r 


188 


WEST  AFUk'A. 


I 


1 


« 

I 

I 

i 


i 


f,  , 


villa;,'*'  forms  an  iiwh'iM'iulcnt  ]H>tly  stato  rulod  by  tho  wculthii'Mt  fiuiiily.  Tho 
nalimtas  aiv  (liMiiictly  Itlack,  Imt  MiialltT  ami  k'ss  syinint'trical  than  tin-  Wulot's, 
with  very  Ion;;  skulls,  n-tnatiu);  fonluad,  and  snail  bloodshot  eyes.  Of  all  tho 
uativi's  ilu'V  are  llu'  most  addirted  to  jduiidiT,  aixl  as  theft  is  a  caitilal  »  rime,  lliey 
are  eHpeeiallv  pritiid  of  the  "heniie"  valour  displayed  by  them  on  nreilatory 
excursions  Special  professors  are  appointed  to  teach  the  nol»le  art  of  robbery, 
and  the  village  ynuth  are  not  regarded  us  men  until  they  have  distinguished  them- 
selves as  footjiads  or  marauders. 

Th(^  I'apels  or  Hurnes  are  eentr.'d  cliietly  in  the  district  between  the  ( ':'.<'lie() 
and  (lelta  estuaries  to  the  west  of  tin-  Halantas,  wlmni  they  closely  rescniblc  in 
physical  appearance  and  social  usages.  Like  them,  they  bury  the  (lead  with 
great  pomp,  and  at  least,  until  rec(>ntly,  their  chiefs  were  uccompaTiied  to  the  other 
world  by  several  maidens  buried  alive.  Kven  in  li'^()0  human  Hesh  still  formed 
part  of  the  "baked  nunits  "  at  funeral  bnupjcts  in  some  remote  districts.  The 
I'apels  are,  however,  distinguished  by  their  artistic  taste,  and  to  their  designers 
are  due  the  ornaments  with  which  the  native  earthenware  and  cilabaslies  are 
embellished. 

Although  showing  no  kind  of  respect  fur  their  dead,  the  Hiafars,  or  JJiat'adas, 
are  the  mildest  and  most  pacific  (»f  all  the  Guine  peoples.  Tho  Nulus,  their 
southern  neighbours  beyond  the  Hio-tirando  estuary,  are  also  distinguished  for 
their  sociable  habits.  Amongst  them  marriages  are  exoganious,  and  when  i  young 
man  selects  liis  bride  from  a  neighbouring  tribe,  he  sends  his  sisler  to  her  l)rother 
by  way  of  compensation. 

The  Hujugos  or  JJijugas,  who  occupy  the  IJissagos  archipelago  and  a  part  of 
the  opj)o.site  coast,  are  a  tine  Xegro  race,  proud,  intrepid,  and  from  infancy 
uccustomed  to  endure  physical  pain  iintlinchingly.  They  wore  hmg  dreaded  by 
the  iMiropeans  as  formidulde  corsairs,  being  the  only  people  on  this  seaboard  wlio 
ventured  on  the  high  seas  to  any  distance  from  the  coast.  In  their  warlike  expe 
ditions  the  men  smeared  themselves  with  ochre  and  decked  their  heads  with 
plumes  and  metal  ornaments ;  but  thoy  soon  learnt  to  exehunge  their  primitive 
bow  and  arrows  tipped  with  poisoned  fish-bones  for  swords  of  luiiopean  make. 
Their  fetishes,  representing  men  and  animals,  are  curved  with  singular  truth  to 
nature,  and  compared  with  similar  objects  elsewhere  in  West  Africa  may  be 
regarded  us  genuine  works  of  art.  In  some  of  the  Bissago-'  i.-:lunds  matriarchal 
rites  still  prevail  among  the  Bujugos. 

Islam  is  spreading  amongst  all  the  coast  tribes,  and  in  the  Nalu  county  Mus- 
sulman communities  already  reach  uU  the  way  to  the  sea.  In  pre-^Iohammedan 
times  the  natives  were  mostly  devil  worshippers,  considering  it  useless  to  pray  to 
the  good  spirits,  uud  reserving  their  supplicutions  only  for  the  muleficcnt  genii. 
Where  these  views  still  survive  the  people  ussemble  at  some  fihinn,  or  sacred  spot, 
such  as  a  great  tree,  the  seashore,  or  the  chief's  dwelling,  and  here  sacrifice 
an  ox,  a  goat,  or  a  fowl,  reading  the  pleasure  of  the  demon  in  the  entrails.  If  the 
prescribed  rites  have  been  fuithfuUy  performed  it  is  ulways  favourable,  and  the 
evil  one  betakes  himself  elsewhere.     To  circumvent  the  minor  spirits,  who  bring 


-r~"  r-r-Tr^a—^T' 


T-  ffirTr.-*?>!?5ira^&Tes5i®SPr«IK®SB!^;fg5>^5S3!K^ 


Tho 


»|I«"W""  "'Iff'*''       H'l|li|!tiJ/H^J^HJJJ^p(«wii»f./:'f*»"*»"»*<«"" 


■/■'uviffty  •"     • j^i'iivf 


imm'j<i.'L  *i 


BUJAGO  TYPES  AND  TERMIKS'  NEST. 


■■■f^{-  fWftjs.i-iaift^ef^T'' 


'm     '^i 


.^iH'v^?SlTt-,**r4^ 


^is?!:,ns^?3?aaga5%T:i^g:s»»igitgis^  i-  :'i-i>ivMMsi!mss^> 


T- 


INIIABITANTS  OF  GUINE. 


180 


bad  luck  and  bewitch  men  and  animals,  reconise  is  had  to  the  Jamlxi-roz,  or 
wizard,  who  f^'oiu'rally  succoods  in  averting  the  pending  evil  and  driving  away 
sickness.  iJnt  should  the  victim  happen  to  sviccumb,  it  is  explained  that  this  was 
because  he  wished  to  die  in  order  to  l)egin  a  new  lite  beyond  the  grave,  and  thus 
the  credit  of  the  magician  is  upheld. 

Amongst  these  populations  trees,  rocks,  animals,  colours,  sound,  eveiything 
assumes  a  favourable  m-  sinister  aspect ;  hence  all  objects  of  ill-omen  are  tabooed, 
whole  districts  being  at  times  intcidieted.     Anyone  penetrating  into  such  phices 

Fip.  79. — TUIDES  OF  TIIK  Casaman'za. 

Scale  I  :  .1(»0,nOO. 


I5°50'   I 


15°  West  of  GregT/vich 


Ueptli». 


0to32 
Feet. 


;K  Feet  iiiid 
ui>ward». 

18  Miles. 


m 
m 


would  be  immediately  punished  with  death  by  poison.  This  practice  prevails 
especially  amongst  the  Felups  and  other  tribes  of  the  Geba  basin,  where  the 
poisoned  cup  either  produces  v.miiting  or  fatal  convulsions,  thus  proving  the 
guilt  or  innocence  of  the  accused.  Those  barbarous  populations  are  rule<l  by  the 
dread  of  the  unknown.  But  as  human  nature  cannot  endure  a  perpetual  state  of 
terror,  violent  reactions  set  in,  during  which  they  frequently  give  themselves  up 
to  the  wild  delights  of  music  and  the  dance. 

The  European  nice  is  hero  represented  by  about  fifty  persons,  including  soldiers, 
traders,  and  a  fow  convicts.     Nevertheless  the  l>ortuguese  have,  in  the  (lourse  of 


'  •»:•''.;.-*"  .--■'.' ' 


190 


WEST   AFUICA. 


conturios,  ai-quiied  coiisidorablc  influence  over  the  native  pojjulatifjns,  and  the 
general  medium  of  intereourse  is  tlie  so-eallcd  I'apel,  a  jargon  or  /hii/Kd-frmim  of 
I'ortuguese  origin,  wliieli  is  variously  ail'eeted  b\  Negro  elements,  according  to  the 
preduruiuaut  speech  of  the  severd  districts.  Like  all  such  "  pidgin  "  languages, 
it  has  a  veiy  limited  vocabulaiT  and  a  rudimentary  structure,  discarding  gram- 
matical gender  and  modifying  the  verbal  senses  by  means  of  invariable  auxiliaries. 


TororjK  vriiv. 

The  six  thousand  or  seven  thousand  natives  directly  subject  to  the  Porluguese 
administration  are  scattered  over  an  extensive  spa^e,  along  the  banks  of  the 
estuary  and  throughout  the  liissagos  Islands.  In  the  Cucheo  basin  the  only 
stations  are  Fariiti  in  the  lialanta  territory,  about  I'-iO  miles  from  the  coast,  and 
Cachvo  (Cachea)  on  the  south  side  of  the  estuary,  here  accessible  to  vessels  drawing 
10  feet.  Brnt'io,  in  the  island  of  like  name  at  the  north  entrance  of  the  Geba, 
consists  of  a  fort,  round  which  are  grouped  six  native  villages,  each  with  its  rcgulo, 
or  head  man. 

But  the  most  important  settlement  is  liolaiua,  capital  of  Guine,  rjsidenee  of 
the  governor  and  headtjuarters  of  the  troops.  The  little  town  lies  on  a  creek  dry 
at  low  water,  and  separating  the  island  of  Bolama  from  the  mainland  at  the  north 
entrance  of  the  liio-Grande.  This  place  was  occupied  in  M^Yi  by  two  hundred 
and  seventy-five  English  settlers,  who  were  soon  reduced  by  famine  and  sickness 
to  a  handful  of  wretched  survivors,  saved  from  certain  death  by  returning  to 
England.  Since  then  the  possession  of  liolaraa  formed  the  subject  of  litigation 
between  Great  Britain  and  Portugal,  the  question  being  decided  in  1870  by  the 
United  States  in  favour  of  the  latter  power.  But  the  trade  of  the  place  is  in  I  he 
hands  of  French  houses,  which  export  ground-nuts,  and  copal  collected  at  the 
foot  of  the  trees  and  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  port,  lying  to  the 
south-west  of  the  town,  is  well  sheltered,  and  the  island,  formerly  overrun  by  herds 
of  elephants,  now  produces  some  corn,  sugar,  and  vegetables. 

In  the  Ilio-Grande  estuary  the  two  chief  Portuguese  stations  are  Bimsma  and 
Biihd,  both  on  the  south  side,  the  former  near  the  entrance,  the  latter  at  the  head 
of  the  navigation.  Farther  inland  are  Giiidali,  a  little  fort  recently  captured  by 
the  Portuguese  from  the  Fulahs,  aiid  luuh',  on  the  great  curve  of  the  Comba 
below  the  Tominc  confluence,  a  place  nnich  frequented  by  Mandingan  traders.  In 
the  neighbourhood  dwells  the  jieaceful  and  unwarlike  Tiapi  agricultural  tribe, 
tipcaking  a  peculiar  language  totally  distinct  both  from  the  Fulah  and  Mandingan. 

TUK    Sot  TFI     SKXKOAMmAN    RlVKKS     ("ThK,    SoiTHKKX    RiVKUs"). 

The  whole  seaboard  stretching  north-west  and  south-cast  for  '-240  miles  in  a 
straight  line  between  Portuguese  (luinc  and  the  Bri(i;h  territory  of  Sierra- 
Leone,  has  been  named  the  "  Southern  llivers,"  as  if  the  mouths  of  the  rivers 
visited  by  traders  and  nuiiiuers  had  alone  any  value  in  their  eyes.     This  region  has 


^i!S'.''J%iSASR^ 


~;s^.ia^i^l« 


tmrn 


THE  SOUTH  SKNECIAMHIAX  RIVKIIS. 


191 


been  frocinontcd  sinco  the  Hftooiifh  ctMiturv,  iind  Kii;;lish,  Portufjuosc,  and  (uTinau 
furtorios  fstablislu'd  :it  various  points.  iJiit  tho  trade  is  chioHy  in  tlu>  hands  of 
the  Frt-nch,  whose  \)'  itical  su/erain(y  over  all  the  coastlands  and  rivor  basins  has 
been  ncoj^niscd  by  ri-cont  conventions. 

Yet  this  territory  can  scarcely  bo  described  as  a  colonial  possession,  b"in;j: 
utilised  onlv  for  trading  purposes,  and  seldom  visited  by  nicrcliants  except  (Uirinj>^ 
the  five  months  from  I)ecend)cr  to  April,  for  tiie  purchase  of  oilseeds,  sesame, 
caoutchouc,  gums,  wax,  skins,  gold  dust,  and  other  produce.  But,  notwithstanding 
its  great  fertility  and  boundless  resources,  the  whole  region  is  very  Iitll<>  known, 
except  in  the  Nunez  and  Scarcics  basins.  The  lower  cour.ses  are  still  doubtful  of 
the  rivers  whose  sources  have  been  discovered  in  the  Futa-Jallon  uplands.  Xor 
is  it  easy  to  determhie  the  extent  of  the  territory  assigm>d  to  France,  which, 
however,  at  an  average  depth  of  about  1",'(>  miles  between  the  seaboard  and 
Futu-Jallon,  may  be  roughly  estimated  at  •24,()0»)  scpiare  miles.  The  native  po])u- 
lation  bein"'  relatively  dense  on  the  coastlands,  may  be  rated  at  not  less  than  two 
hundred  thousand.  The  petty  states  of  Koba  and  Kobitai,  on  the  Sangarea.  estuary, 
have  alone  ov(>r  thirty  thousand  inhabitants. 

Like  the  Portuguese  Guine,  the  whole  seaboard  is  broken  into  peninsular  for- 
mations, which,  at  high  water,  are  ccmvern^d  info  u  labyrinth  of  islets.  Hut  the 
estuaries  seldom  penetrate  far  inland,  as  the  ground  here  rises  somewhat  rapidly 
towards  the  Futa-Jallon  highlands.  The  northernmost  stream,  known  at  its 
mouth  as  the  Componi  (Campuni),  and  higher  up  as  the  Cogon,  sends  down  a  eon 
siderable  volume,  which  in  the  estuary  ramifies  into  several  branches.  One  of 
these  encloses  on  the  west  the  island  of  Tristam,  which  is  the  first  French  t(>rritory 
on  this  seaboard,  and  which  still  bears  the  name  of  the  Portuguese  navigator,  Nunc 
Tristam,  who  discovered  it  in  1440. 

The  Rio  Nunez  (Nunez),  the  Nuno  of  the  Portuguese,  is  also  named  froni  the 
same  mariner  who  first  explored  it,  and  here  perished  in  a  conflict  with  the  natives. 
The  Kakundi,  as  it  is  locally  called,  is  less  copious  than  the  (k)mponi,  but  of  more 
commercial  value,  being  unobstructed  by  any  bar,  and  accessible  to  large  vessels 
for  about  40  miles  inland.  Here  the  tides,  the  highest  on  the  coast,  rise  to  ov(>r 
!2()  feet  hifh,  and  rush  at  times  with  a  velocity  of  ')  or  <)  miles  an  hour  far  up  the 

estuary. 

South  of  the  Nunez  follows  the  Katako,  of  diflicult  access,  and  some  W  miles 
iarthi'r  on  the  Rio  Pongo  (Pongos,  Pongas)  whose  headstreams  have  their  source  in  the 
south  western  valleys  of  Futa-Jallon.  Its  estuaiy  ramifies  into  ninnerous  secondary 
branches,  developing  for  u  space  of  10  miles  an  extremely  intricate  system  of 
channels  navigable  at  high  water.  Ibit  the  bar  is  most  dangerous  on  this  coast, 
and  during  the  floods  the  ebb  tide  rushes  down  at  the  rate  of  H  or  !»  miles  an  hour, 
which  seems  to  imply  a  considerable  discharge. 

But,  judging  from  its  upper  course,  a  still  more  copious  stream  is  the  Kakrinian 
(Kakrinui),  which  has  its  source  in  the  same  uplands  as  the  Gambia,  llio-Grande, 
and  ^Senegal.  Where  it  was  crossed  by  Olivier,  1,400  feet  above  sea-level,  its 
discharge  wus  at  least   1,800  cubic  feet  per  second,  and  it  cannot  be  forded  even 


lifcl 


\n 


T 


192 


VVE8T  Ai-'lUCA. 


in  the  dry  sonsnn,  !ilth(mf»li  rondorod  unTi!ivip;ablc  by  falls  ami  rapirls.  For  a 
stretch  of  I'JO  iiiilos  in  a  straif^lit  line  below  tliese  obstructions  its  course  has  been 
surveyed  bv  no  e.\|tl()rer,  so  that  it  is  still  somewhat  uncertain  whether  the  Kakri- 
niaii  is  the  upper  course  of  the  Hranieya,  which  enters  the  sea  midway  between 
the  ron<,'o  and  the  ^lallecory  at  the  broad  estuary  of  the  San<»area.  Aeeordinj? 
to  the  natives  fht<  lirameya  is  navigable  for  one  or  two  hundred  miles  by  craft 


^i 


II 


rig,  80.— Tin:  Los  Islands. 

■^crh-  1  .    I'JO.dOO. 


Depths. 


c 


Bnndii  pxponed  nt 
low  walpr 


0tol6 

Feet. 


16  to  32 
Feet. 

3.300  YiirdH. 


,1!»  Feet  and 
unwinds 


drfiwin<i;  10  feet ;  but   the  current  is  interrupted  by  u  series  of  dangerous  rapids 
within  3(J  miles  of  the  sea. 

TlIK,    Los    Isr.ANDS. 

In  tlu'  interior  the  hills  and  plateaux  disposed  in  successive  terraces  a!id  at 
some  ])oints  ap])roaching  the  coast,  enjoy  a  sahdirious  clnnate  suitable  for  European 
settlements.  Mount  Kakulima,  near  the  east  side  of  the  Sangarea  estuary,  rises 
to  u  height  of  ;},00()  feet  above  the  surrounding  savannahs  and  paliu-groves.     It 


~7^^^f7^' 


'■""^■•i'"^^'v;'^^."f:''i«?i':v'--&"^^  t" 


THE  LOS  ISLANDS. 


193 


It 


is  of  pcrfer-tly  conic  shape,  apparently  tcrminatinj*  in  a  crater,  and  acconlinn^  to 
tlie  natives  at  times  eniittinfjf  a  lij^lit  cohinm  of  smoke.  Hut  no  lluropean  has  yet 
l)een  ])ermitte(l  to  ascend  the  *'  sacred  mountain,"  so  that  its  vohaiiic  character  is 
still  doubtful. 

Towards  the  south-west  the  heij^hts  are  continued  throu<^h  the  lonj;  peninsula 
of  Konakii  and  the  island  of  Tumho,  which  project  westward  in  the  dij'cction  of 
the  Los  archipolaf>;o.  These  "  Islas  de  los  Idolos,"  or  "  Islands  of  the  Idols,"  arc 
so  called  from  the  sacred  ima<>'es  hero  found  by  the  early  navigators.  They  are 
certainly  of  volcanic  origin,  the  two  principal  mendiers  of  the  group  exceeding 
(i(M>  feet  in  height  and  disposed  in  the  form  of  a  vast  and  ruined  crater  encircling 
a  central  cone-shaped  islet.  The  prevailing  formations  are  blue  and  yellowi.sh 
lavas  surrounding  large  masses  of  }K)rphyry. 

The  ^lallccory  (Mclkwore)  river  soutli  of  the  Konakri  peninsula,  is  little  more 
than  a  marine  estuary,  like  the  neighbouring  Maneu,  Morcbia,  and  Forekaria ; 
but  it  is  of  more  commercial  importance,  giving  access  to  a  better-known  region. 
A  little  faither  south  follow  the  Great  and  Little  Hcarcies,  the  Kios  dos  Carcere-s 
of  the  early  Portuguese  writers,  which  are  true  rivers,  sending  down  a  consi- 
derable body  of  water.  The  Little  Scarcie  especially,  despite  i*8  name,  is  a  large 
stream  fed  by  copious  alHuents,  one  of  which,  the  Fala,  rises  on  a  low  .saddleback 
within  iJ4  miles  of  the  !Niger.  The  two  Scarcies,  flowing  from  Fnta-.Iallon  and 
the  neighbouring  uplands  south  of  Timb'),  gradually  converge  towards  each  other, 
discharging  in  the  same  island-studded  bay.  Since  1S82  their  lower  course,  with 
the  adjacent  coast,  belongs  to  Great  Britain,  the  Anglo-French  frontier  here 
following  the  parting  line  between  the  ^fallecory  and  the  estuary  of  the  Great 
Scarcie.  The  neighb  Miring  islet  of  Matacong  belongs  to  France,  while  the  Los 
Islands  are  British  territory. 

C^l^!  VTE,    Fl.OKA,    AND    FaIXA. 

The  climate,  flora,  and  fauna  differ  little  from  those  of  north  Senegambia. 
During  the  hot  rainy  season  calms  alternate  with  storms  accompanied  by  frecpient 
waterspouts  and  torrential  downpours,  while  in  the  relatively  cool  season  the 
trade  winds  are  weaker  and  less  regular  than  in  the  north.  Instead  of  blowing 
from  the  normal  north-east  diri-ction,  they  take  a  southerly  course,  or  else  follow 
the  shore-line,  or  are  even  deflected  towards  the  interior  of  the  ronlinent.  But 
in  January  the  true  north-east  wind,  that  is,  tlie  Saharian  harmattan,  resumes  the 
asi'endaney,  often  charged  with  the  desert  sands  and  attended  by  dens^o  and 
in.salubrious  morning  fogs. 

I'lants  yielding  caoutchouc  id)ound  in  the  forests  of  the  Tiio  Nufiez.  The 
coffee  of  the  same  region,  well  known  in  commerce,  has  a  smidler  berry  but 
scarcely  less  flavour  and  aroma  than  the  Mocca  variety.  A  still  more  valuable 
l)lant  is  the  oil-palm  {Elwis  f/iiiiicciisin),  which  here  flrst  acquires  the  importance  of 
an  economic  jn-oduct.  The  Midlecory  basin  is  also  a  chief  centre  of  the  kola  nut 
(Slerciilia  riciiniinata)  industry.  The  kola  flourishes  best  in  a  dry  ferruginous  soil 
exposed  to  periodical  raius,  where  it  attains  u  height  of  Go  or  70  feet.     The  nnt 


*=<16fc.;ffa!^. 


-#?>"• 


I 

I  ■ 

I 

I 


194 


WEST   AFlilCA. 


is  very  hittiT,  but  after  tastiiif?  it  all  water,  lutwevor  foul,  acciuiros  an  a<,'rec'al)le 
flavour,  'ihc  juice  of  the  fruit  rubbed  into  the  body  also  alTords  eonipleto 
protection  against  niowjuitoes,  and  Ity  the  natives  the  same  fruit,  richer  in  iheino 
than  tea  itself,  is  re<!^arded  as  an  almost  universal  Hpeeitie.  There  are  two 
varieties,  one  yieldinj?  red  the  other  white  nuts,  the  latter  being  u  syinbol  of 
peace,  the  former  of  bloodshed,  when  sent  by  a  chief  to  his  nei<,'hbour. 


ill  ii 


Iniiahitants. 

Here  as  elsewhere  throughout  West  Africa  the  more  civilised  populations  are 
those  of  the  interior,  who  by  continually  advancing  westwards  have  broken  up  the 
ethnical  cohesion  of  the  coast  tribes.  In  the  north  the  chief  people  thus 
encroached  upon  are  the  Bagati,  from  whom  this  region  takes  the  nanu>  of  lia- 
gatai.  In  the  last  century  Adans,  n  called  them  Vagres,  a  name  probably  identical 
with  that  of  (Jape  Verga,  the  most  advanced  promontory  on  the  coast.  South  of 
this  headland  dwell  the  Sapds  or  Sumbas,  akin  to  the  Biigas,  and  of  nuu-h  lighter 
complexion  and  less  Negroid  features  than  most  of  the  other  coast  tribes.  A 
marked  physical  peculiarity,  which  at  once  strikes  all  observers,  is  the  almost 
geonu^rical  horizontal  position  of  the  plane  connecting  the  neck  with  the  chin. 
The  Haga  men  are  generally  well  clothed,  whereas  the  women  wear  little  beyond  a 
thread  on  which  are  strung  rags,  pearls,  rings,  wood  or  metal  ornaments.  Tha 
rich  also  insert  a  ring  in  the  cartilage  of  the  nose,  and  all  pierce  the  lobe  of 
the  ear  for  the  insertion  of  rice-straw.  Field  operations  are  performed  by  the 
men,  who  are  very  industrious  and  of  peaceful  habits,  so  that  the  Hagatai  territory 
is  regarded  as  a  place  of  refuge,  in  which  all  natives  go  uaarmed.  Till  recently 
every  liaga  village  formed  an  independent  petty  state  ;  but  tho  French  Govern- 
ment has  now  brought  all  at  least  in  the  Nunez  basin  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
king  of  the  Nalus,  himself  subject  to  the  military  commander  of  Boke. 

The  Landunums,  also  brought  under  the  sume  rule,  occupy  both  banks  of  the 
Nunez  above  the  estuary.  Notwithstanding  their  stout  resistance  to  the  Fulah 
invaders,  they  would  probably  have  succumbed  like  so  many  others,  but  for  the 
timely  intervention  of  the  French.  They  appear  to  be  closely  related  to  the  Bagas, 
resembling  them  in  type,  usages  and  sjjeech.  They  have  hitherto  turiunl  a  deaf 
ear  to  the  Mohamu\edan  preachers,  although  showing  great  resjject  for  the  Fulah 
marabouts,  whom  they  regard  as  more  potent  wizards  than  tlu;ir  own  fetish- men. 
But  the  moie  civilized  Nalus  have  already  embraced  the  faith  of  Islam. 

Throughout  the  whole  of  this  region  the  dominant  speech  is  that  of  the  Su-Sas, 
who  occupy  both  slopes  of  the  hilly  country  between  the  Scarcies  and  liio  Pongo. 
Some  of  their  tribe?  even  penetrate  farther  north,  intermingling  with  the  Nalus 
and  Landumans  ;  eastwards  they  conu^  in  contact  with  the  Fulahs,  towards  the 
west  with  the  Bagaa,  and  in  many  places  reach  the  coast.  The  Su-Sus  are  akin 
to  the  Mandingans,  and  also  claim  brotherhood  with  several  other  West-African 
peoples,  such  as  the  Sangaras  (Sankarans)  of  the  Upper  Niger.  During  the 
course  of  long  migrations  they  have  become  scattered  over  a  vast  domain,  and  it 


m'mt-  J  ivi'-i^'i-  ^»siimA-iimm^m^^m'^mms^%si:m§tMnMf^^mmisimm^m 


THE  SU-SU  TIUIJE. 


l!)0 


wusaSii-Su  tril)'  that  in  tlic  tiiirtceiith  ci'iitiiry  seize  I  Timbuktu,  wlu-iioo  tlii-y 
woiT  (liivi'u  wistwurds  a  Iiuiulrcd  ytvu-s  later.  Then  it  was  that  they  overrai! 
the  rc'^'idus  between  the  I'pper  Ni<^er  and  the  sea,  alter  whieli  the  limits  of  their 
domain  frequently  fluctuated  duriuf?  their  stru<,'<,'les  with  the  nei;,'hbourin<?  peoples. 
Thus  they  have  ceased  to  hold  the  Nunez  basin,  while  the  Fulahs  jm'ssinjj  forward 
from  the  east,  have  dispossessed  them  of  many  districts  in  the  Futa-Jallon  uplands. 
When  the  French  accpiiredthe  ])olitical  supremacy  in  the  iJio  I'onjjo  and  Mallecorv 
basins,  most  of  the  Su-Su  kinjjs  had  already  become  tributary  to  the  Fulah  chief  of 
Futa-Jallon.      At   present   these   petty   states  urc   practically   independent,  their 

Fig.  8I.-R1VEK8   OF   TIIK    SlJUllt. 

Scale  1  :  7.500,000. 


r  ■■--'  V 


//t 


"^ ::■-..:  \':/--:y-':^.\/. 


'4-:: 


"^^^^ 


I  9" 

J 


1,600  to  .S  2(  0 
Feet. 


8,200  Feet  iind 

UpWIll'dB. 

.  180  Miles. 


vassalage  towards  France  implying  little  more  than  the  acceptance  of  a  nominal 
protectorate. 

The  JSu-Sus  are  a  powerful,  broad-shouldered  peoj)le  of  distinct  Negro  typo, 
combined  with  a  certain  softness  of  expression.  The  women  especially  are  noted 
for  their  graceful  carriage  and  great  h)ve  of  finery,  paying  great  attention  to  the 
toilette,  decking  themselves  with  gold  earrings  and  coral  necklaces,  and  dyeing 
their  teeth,  nails,  and  palms  with  the  red  juice  obtained  by  chewing  the  leaves  of 
a  native  plant.  Although  retpiired  to  work  with  the  slaves  in  the  fields,  they  ai'e 
better  treated  than  most  of  their  African  sisters,  are  excelleiit  housewives,  and 
bring  up  their  children  with  great  care.  A  rare  phenomenon  in  African  society 
are  the  old  maids  frecptently  met  in  the  Su-Su  country — women  who  have  declined 
the  husband  intended  for  them,  and  whose  decision  in  this  matter  is  always  respected. 


i   f 
"i' 


!ij 


I 

m 


196 


WEST  AFRICA. 


FiUrnpciin  visitors  nro  struck  by  tlip  p^roat  courtesy  shown  by  the  Su-Sus  towards 
onch  other.  At  the  si<^ht  of  an  a«;e<l  person  bearin*;  a  bunh'ii,  the  ymniji:  ">'"> 
always  hastens  to  relieve  him  for  a  part  of  the  way,  and  stran^-ers  casually  nieetin;^ 
lU'ver  fail  to  in<piire  after  each  other's  health  and  welfare.  The  speech  itself, 
although  monotonous,  is  soft,  very  pliant,  and  easily  understood,  whence  its  wide- 
spread use  as  the  language  of  general  intercourse  among  all  the  native  popula- 
tions of  the  country.  It  is  a  Mandingan  dialect,  marked  by  the  absence  of  gram- 
matical gender  and  the   use  of  prefixes,  reduced  to  writing  by  the  missionaries, 

i'ijf.  8i.  — IXUAUITAXTM    OF    Till:    HlVKllS    OF    TUK    SuLTH. 
Soale  1   :  7.VK),(K)0. 


West  of  G'-eentv'iC*' 


0  to  1,800 
Feet. 


Heijriits. 

l.fiOO  to  3.200 
Feet. 


3,200  Feot  nnd 
upwards. 

=--    no  MilCB 


and   already  possessing  some  works  on   grammar,  vocabularies,  and  translations 
from  the  Bible  and  other  Christian  writings. 

While  manv  Su-Su  communities  have  accepted  the  doctrines  of  Tslam,  others 
are  still  pure  fetichists  Some  again  call  themselves  ^fohannnedans,  and  observe 
the  fast  of  Ramadan,  but  remain  pagans  at  heart,  while  others  are  animated  by 
the  same  religious  zeal  as  their  Fulah  neighbours.  On  the  other  hand,  sonu;  of  the 
tribes  near  the  European  factories  pass  for  Christians,  wearing  medals  and  scupu- 
larics,  and  abstaining  from  work  on  the  Sabbath.  Slavery  is  still  a  universal 
institution,  and  warlike  excursions  are  eve.  made  into  the  interior  to  capture 
slaves,  who  are  afterwards  sold  at  an  average  juice  of  £8  per  head.  ^lost  of  the 
industries,  such  as  those  of  the  smith,  jeweller,  and  carpenter,  are  left  to  the  slaves, 
although  some  of  the  free  Su  Sus  also  display  great  skill  at  wood  and  leather 
woi'k.      In    a  material    sense  they   are    rapidly    being    civilised,  and   the   coast 


^!f?9Kras«l(lPP?'B^5!SS?s?^:is^g^^ 


■■mmmmmmmiimmr  t«- 


SIKRKA-LEONE. 


1!>7 


people  now  mostly  wear  Kuropcaii  clothes,  uml  build  themselves  houses  witli 
separate  eoiiipartineiits  ami  ventilating  passages,  Mtted  with  foreign  bedsteads, 
strong  boxes,  and  the  like. 

In  this  region  there  are  scareely  any  Kuropean  settlers,  the  dangerous  elimale 
obliging  most  foreigners  to  depart  after  transacting  th(>ir  business  with  tlie  utmost 
despateh.  Ilenee  tlie  intliienee  of  the  whites  is  felt  rather  indirectly,  and  especially 
through  tht>  Senegidese  coloured  peopl(>  and  (he  Wcdof  traders,  by  win ini  the  Kuro- 
pi'un  enmiuerciiil  houses  ure  represented  in  all  the  coast  villages  and  far  inland. 

'loI'OtiK  \1'UV. 

The  most  remote  Kuropean  station  in  the  Niuiez  basin  is  the  pleasant  handet 
of  Bi>l;c,  perched  on  the  slope  of  a  verdant  hill  on  the  left  ba^ik,  some  •")(»  miles 
from  the  mi>uth  of  the  e.stnary.  Here  is  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  Keiie 
Caillii',  who  started  from  this  place  in  1H-.27  on  his  famous  jounu>y  to  'Innbuktu. 
Kast  of  Kakendi,  as  Hoke  was  then  called,  and  on  the  routt>  to  Futa-Jallon,  foUow 
the  two  large  villages  of  Bitnihiii/n  and  h'oiisofowi,  lying  in  a  delightful  and  salu- 
brious district,  where  the  orange  groves,  banana,  colfc",  and  tobacco  jdantatioiis 
are  watered  by  perennial  sparkling  .streams.  The  district,  inhabited  by  friendly 
l-'ulahs,  offers  i>very  prospect  of  siicci'ss  to  Kuropean  settlers. 

r,d;in,i,  residence  of  the  Kandmnan  kinj-s,  lies  a  short  distance  beh.w  ib.ke, 
near  u  "  .sacred  "  wood,  aiVording  a  retreat  to  tlio  "  Simons,"  or  wizards,  who  can 
change  themselves  into  lions  to  destroy  their  enemies.  Near  ^'akaria  till  recently 
was  "o  l)e  seen  the  "  gaUows  of  death,"  where  the  wretched  victim,  with  broken 
arms  and  legs,  was  left  to  be  slowly  engulfed  in  the  waters  of  the  rising  tide, 
uide.ss  his  suherings  were  shortened  by  a  passing  .shark  or  erocodde.  About  twelve 
miles  h.wer  down  over  against  the  French  station  t)f  livl-Air,  .stands  lumimcobuli, 
another  capital,  where  the  Nahi  "  king  of  kings  "  still  h(dds  his  court.  VHonn, 
a  factory  founded  by  the  Knglish,  lies  on  the  right  bank,  at  the  point  where  the 
tortuous  Rio  Xufez  merges  in  the  bnmd  marine  estuary. 

Uf  the  numerous  factories  on  the  llio  rtmgothe  most  important  is  Bnifa,  whicii 
is  also  a  custom  house  and  a  Ronum  Catholic  missionary  station.  In  the  Mallirory 
basin  the  oidy  ]dace  of  any  note  is  Beuty,  lying  in  a  comparatively  healthy  di.strict 
on  the  left  bank  (.f  the  river.  Although  Reuty  is  the  official  residence  of  the 
Administrator-General  and  occupied  by  a  French  garrison,  Knglish,  introduced 
by  the  Sierra-Leone  traders,  continues  to  be  the  current  language  of  intercourse. 

On  theTombo  headland,  facing  the  Los  Archipelago,  has  recently  been  founded 
the  statiim  of  Konnkri,  which  promises  to  rapidly  increase  as  a  port  of  call  for 
passing  steamers.  It  is  also  one  of  the  stations  of  the  Atlantic  cable  connecting 
Kurope  with  the  Gold  Coast  and  the  Gabi)on.  The  L<.s  Islands,  which  the  native 
chiefs  have  leased  to  Knglish  traders,  have  in  recent  limes  lost  much  of  their 
eommorciul  import  auce. 

Sieura-Leone. 
Like  80  many  mountains  in  otlior  parts  of  the  world,  one  of  the  crests  of  the 


198 


WEST  AFIUCA. 


•  *> 


chain  dvcrlookinp  Frootnwn  proscnts  the  vajjuo  initlinos  of  a  rroiicliinj?  lion. 
Frmu  ihis  taint  n'scniltlancf  tin  hill,  with  all  the  nci^'hltoiirinj;  cnast.  the 
Ihili-nilK'l    or    KuniaiDnf;  «•!   tli.'   natives,   may   i)i-s>ilily    havf    received   from  tl 


lO 


iNirtngtu'^'  tho  name  ol^  Sierra -I, eon,  whein-e  the  present  stran;i:e  hybrid  form, 
Sierni-Leone — half  Spanish,  ha'i  Italian.  Or  is  it  due  to  I'edro  de  ('intra,  wlio  mi 
landin"  here  in  14<i7  met  a  lion,  nr  ninrt<  prohahly  a  leopard,  in  the  forest,  and 
wishe;!  to  enniinenior.ile  the  en<'oiinler  liy  naniiiifr  the  locality  from  the  kin^' of 
heastsy  Another  conjecture  refers  it  to  the  ♦'.uinder-claps,  which  re-echo  in  the 
hills  when  the  storm  clouds  hurst  on  their  suiuniit.and  when,  as  Cadainosto  wiites, 
the  roar  «)f  the  tempest  is  heard  "  forty  or  t.fly  miles  out  at  sea  "  otf  the  coa^t  of 
'•  Serre-Lyonne." 

As  a  political  desi^jnation  tin's  name  is  now  applied  collectively  to  all  the 
liritish  possessions  hetween  the  French  territory  of  South  Senegamhia  and  tho 
Ke'To  colonv  of  Ijiherin,  answerin''  verv  closely  to  the  re<;ion  known  to  the  (jarlv 
I'ortuguese  nuiigators  as  Mitomho.  The  seultoai'd  of  this  [xditical  dnmain,  taken 
in  a  straight  line,  has  a  length  of  'Jl(»  nnles,  which  is  nearly  doid)led  hy  tho 
thonsund  indentations  of  the  coast.  In  some  jdaces  Hnglish  jurisdiction  exteiidH 
landwards  a  distance  of  \'-i^^  miles,  while  in  others  it  is  limited  to  the  eoastlands, 
or  even  to  the  shore-line.  Absolutely  iiulei)endent  communities  occupy  tho 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  seaboard  at  Krim,  near  the  Liberian  frontier.  Kast- 
wards  tlie  territory  reserved  for  the  colonial  expansion  of  Knghnid  is  virtually 
limMed  by  a  convention  yiehling  to  France  the  right  of  future  annexations  in  tho 
l'p])er  Niger  regions.  JJnt  regarding  us  already  IJritish  territory  the  whole  of  tho 
Kokelle  basin,  us  well  as  those  of  tlu  oth(>r  streams  flowing  to  the  sea,  thence  to 
J.iberia,  its  total  urea  may  be  estimated  at  about  .'{O.OOO  scjuure  miles,  while  tho 
actuul  ivmsessions  have  an  extent  of  no  more  than  l,'i()(>  s«piare  miles,  with  a 
population  in  \^^l  of  ()(),."i.">0.  Were  the  whole  region  peopled  in  the  same 
proportion,  it  would  contain  over  l,i"iO(),(»(K)  inhabitants,  and  in  any  eu.so  at  least 
half  a  million  are  centred  on  the  seaward  slope. 

The  Sierra-Lecme  seabourd  (omprises  two  distinct  sections,  differing  greutly  in 
their  conformation.  The  stmthern  presents  u  uniform  coastline,  drawn  with 
almost  geometric  precisi  )n,  and  diversified  by  very  slight  eminences.  The  coast 
of  Sherbro  Ishuid  continues  that  oi  the  mainland  as  far  us  Cape  St.  Ann,  termi- 
nating in  a  sharp  spit,  and  for  a  distance  of  over  a  hundred  miles  the  shore-line 
follows  uu  almosi  rigidly  straight  course.  This  regular  beach  has  no  d(ml)t  been 
partly  detached  from  the  continani  by  a  murine  inlet  and  a  long  creek  ;  still  the 
s])it  indicates  the  original  coastline,  which  is  connected  with  Cape  Roxo  between 
the  Cachoo  and  Casaman/a  by  submerged  banks  and  a  chain  of  reefs  and  islets, 
of  which  the  IJissagos  archipelago  is  the  chief  s\irviving  fragment.  North-west 
of  Sherbro  the  banks  extend  to  a  great  distance,  rendering  the  Sierra-Leone  coast 
us  dangerous  as  that  of  the  Portugiiese  Gnine,  especially  in  the  rainy  season, 
when  the  horizon  is  veiled  in  mist.  At  some  points  of  their  course  pilots  ure 
obliged  to  keep  sixty  miles  oil'  the  seuboard. 

North  of  Sherbro  the  coust,  carved  by  murine  erosion  into  gulfs  and  inlets. 


wisSi^ 


ft^fe  ■  •  ■■«¥^sggsa«i-=^#a 


SIKRRA-T.KONE. 


m* 


briHtlcs  with  capi's  and  IkmuUuikIs.  Of  lluw  proinontorirs  tlio  larjjcHt  is  that 
HjM'cially  known  an  Sierra- Ii«M)ni>,  at  the  ii(»rth«Mii  cxtrcinity  of  which  stands 
the  capital  of  the  llritish  posMfMnioMs.     Duiiuj;  ^prin^^  tide  and  ho  ivy   ruinN,  thin 


Fijf     «;3.-  PK.VIXfU'I.A    OK    SU'.UIIA-TiKONIi 
8oiil«  1   :  'IAU.ikiO. 


15*80 


West  of  Greenwich 


Dcptlw. 


Hi 

5! 


>1 


Otn  64 
Fwt. 


m  Feet 
mid  upwnrda. 


6  MilPS. 


ptiiinsnlu  is  said  to  be  coinplctoly  Hurrounded  by  water,  the  two  creeks  partly 
K(>paruting  it  from  tlie  mainhind  being  then  united  in  u  single  '-hannel.  Kven 
dnring  the  dry  season  a  portage  of  u  few  miles  is  the  only  obstacle  to  the  complete 


!■ 

1 1  '* 


200 


\V1:ST  AFlllCA. 


cireiifniiavipitioii  of  lh(>  iM-iiiiisiila,  which  haw  an  nren  of  "290  s(|iiar«>  miles,  and  it» 
iiioHtly  ncciipicil  with  a  raiip'  ut  irfiitly  r(iitn(U><l  hills,  nilininatiii);  in  a  cIhik!- 
capix-d  .snjfailoaf  J.^lOO  fcf?  hi)^h.  Tlu'  iR'ninsnlar  mass  ti-rminatcs  northwest- 
wunlf*  in  CajH'  Sifna-LiMMU',  and  sonthwards  in  Cape  Shilling,  or  False  Cuik-,  con- 
tinued Hcawards  hy  the  Itannna  Islands  and  a  tew  oilier  islot«. 

The  Siena- liCiine  hills  are  often  stated  to  !):•  of  iji;neous  orij^in,  and  to  the 
Htill  penl-iip  f>;ase8  have  heen  attrilaited  the  eurt iKjuakeN  that  have  hero  taken 
])lace,  notal>ly  those  of  the  years  IH'jH  and  lH(i",'.  llnl  this  hypotliesii  is  not 
jiislitied  Ity  the  nature  ol  ihe  rocks  occurring  in  the  neighi)ourhood  of  the  town, 
which  are  sandstoiivs  like  those  of  the  maiidand.  According  to  Matthews,  there 
are  numerous  symptoms  of  subsidence  on  the  coast,  where  some  islands  in  tho 
CHtuiiry  of  the  Scarcius  have  been  converted  into  sandbanks,  covered  hy  !•'{  feet 
of  water.  The  site  of  a  fort  orected  by  the  Portuguese  at  the  mouth  of  the  Uio 
<iallinas  would  also  appear  to  be  now  submerged  iu  Kt  feet  of  water,  six  miles  froiu 
tlie  shore.  Hut  these  statements  would  rcipiire  to  bo  verified  by  u  careful  series 
of  contemporary  observations. 

Along  the  Sierra-Leone  coast,  as  everywhere  on  the  Senogambian  seaboard,  tho 
argillaceous  soil  overlies  a  subsoil  of  coarse  and  ferrugineous  sandstone,  which  is 
easily  cut  with  a  hutchet,  but  which  rapidly  hardens  in  tho  air,  thus  forming  an 
excellent  building  material.  On  tho  surface  are  strewn  boulders  of  blue  granite 
und  other  ciystalline  rocks,  nearly  all  rounded  and  blackened  by  the  action  of  the 
sun  and  atmosphere.  The  pn-.senco  of  those  erratic  blocks,  brought  frotn  distant 
mountains,  seems  to  suggest  that  Oven  those  equatorial  regions  may  have  also  had 
their  glacial  period,  so  that  the  fjord-like  form  of  tho  coast  between  Capes  Koxo 
uiid  St.  Aiju  laij^ht  IIkcII  Le  dac  tj  the  action  of  gladcrf,  formerly  doscmdinp  from 
tho  Futa-Jallon  highlands. 

Xumeroiis  streams,  fed  by  a  co])ious  rainfall,  flow  from  the  hilly  watershed 
across  the  Sierra- Leone  territory.  The  Jiokollo,  tho  first  large  watercourse  occurring 
south  of  the  Scarcies,  mingles  its  hoadstreams  with  those  of  tho  Upper  Niger,  and 
after  a  south-westerly  course  trends  westwards  to  a  broad  and  winding  estmiry, 
forming  tho  eastern  branch  of  the  Gulf  of  Kierra-Leono.  South  of  tho  Hokello, 
the  Bansakolo,  an  ocjually  co])ious  stream,  rises  within  a  few  miles  of  the  sources 
of  tho  Niger,  and  after  esca])ing  through  deep  gorges  westwards  pursues  a  still 
unexplored  course  to  the  coast,  either  falling  into  Yawry  15ay  as  the  Kamaranka, 
or  more  probably  merging  as  tho  Bagranor  iJarguruin  a  funnel-shaped  estuary  to 
the  cast  of  Shorbro  Island. 

Cl-IMATE. 

Althcmgh  Freetown,  capital  of  tho  British  possessions,  is  270  miles  nearer  the 
equator  than  Sedhiu  on  the  ('asamanza,  its  mean  temperature  is  not  more  elevated, 
and  is  oven  rather  lower  than  that  of  Boke,  on  the  Bio  Nunez.  This  is  due  to  its 
liosition  on  tho  coast,  whore  it  is  completely  exposed  to  the  marine  breezes.  The  cli- 
mate is  extremely  equable,  with  no  alternations  of  seasons,  except  such  as  are  duo  to 
the  succession  of  dry  and  rainy  periods,  the  glass  varying  scarcely  more  than  seven 


. 


V-*  ' 


':4.t,:'j!v;jvv«-,v.:^  &.■'"■; 


^<IERR.V-LKnNE.  201 

(U'grees,  from  70    V.  iu  August,  to  82"  in  April,  with  a  raeun  of  about  78"  F.  ut 


PliHiiiif'fllSi 


VT^  rr.l 


» 

« 


Ml 


:,ti 


ai 


Freetown.     The  sea-breezes  prevail  along  the  coast  during  the  hottest  part  of  the 

77-AF 


""^^^'^^^^^^^^^^^feS^^Wy  f r:«®P^S^  ;$,■  'ji- 


Ill 
m 


202 


WEST  AI-'RICA. 


(lay ;  but  the  whole  coast  lies  beyond  the  influence  of  the  regular  trade  winds,  and 
Freetown  lies  altogether  in  the  zone  of  monsoons,  calms,  and  variable  winds.  The 
harmattan  from  the  Sahara  prevails  for  u  few  days  in  JJecember  and  January, 
bringing  with  it  the  impalpable  dust  of  the  desert. 

The  rainfall  is  heavier  on  the  Sierra-Leone  coast  than  in  any  other  part  of  West 
Africa,  although  varying  to  a  .suiprising  extent  from  year  to  year,  falling,  for 
instance,  from  ''VJO  inches  in  IS;?!)  to  less  than  40  in  li*-')H.  A  mean  of  nine  years 
givs  for  Freetown  about  Vi-l  inches,  while  exceptional  downpours  have  been 
recorded  of  4,  or  even  H,  inches  in  the  twenty-fcnir  hours.  During  these  heavy 
rains,  hail  not  unfrccjuently  falls  on  the  tops  of  the  mountains.  The  wet  season 
begins  generally  early  in  ^lay,  or  a  month  sooner  than  in  Senegal,  and  is  usually 
ushered  in  with  a  few  local  cyclones,  caused  by  the  clash  of  ojjposing  winds. 

Despite  its  relatively  moderate  temperature,  the  climate  of  Siena-Leone  is  one 
of  the  most  deadly  in  the  world,  and  of  the  whole  region  the  eai)ital  is  the  most 
dangerous  as  a  residence  for  Europeans.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  some  still 
undjained  marshy  tracts,  while  muddy  banks  are  left  exposed  at  every  tide.  The 
poisonous  exhalations  rising  from  the.se  places  arc  confined  as  in  a  cauldron  by  the 
vast  amphitheatre  of  hills  encircling  the  bay.  Even  on  the  slopes  the  natui-e  of 
the  soil  contributes  to  the  insalubrity  of  the  climate  during  the  rainy  season.  The 
water  absorbed  by  the  ferruginous  sandstones  is  rapidly  evaporated,  filling  the 
atmosphere  with  heavy  dank  vapours,  like  those  of  a  hothouse  for  tropical  plants. 
On  arriving  in  the  bay  the  European  admires  the  picturescjue  form  of  the  hills, 
the  exuberant  vegetation,  the  lovely  shores  of  the  gulf,  ramifying  in  creeks  and 
narrows ;  but  he  cannot  shake  off  the  (miinous  impres.sion  caused  by  the  expres- 
sion, "  AVhite  man's  grave,"  commoidy  applied  to  the  country;  and  he  also  remem- 
bers that  the  cruisers  em])ioyed  to  suppress  the  slave-trade  in  these  waters  were 
known  as  the  "  Coltin  Squadnm." 

Epidemics  of  yellow  fever  are  frequent,  generally  sweeping  off  a  third  or  even 
a  half  of  the  whites  unable  to  escape  in  time,  or  compelled  by  their  duties  to 
remain  in  the  country.  Some  medical  men  even  assert  that  this  scourge  is  endemic 
in  Siei-ra- Leone,  and  that  the  peninsula  is  the  hotbed  of  the  epidemics  that  at  times 
ravage  the  Seneganibian  regions.  The  mortality  of  the  English  officers  statioiiiiil 
at  Freetown  ri.ses  occasionally  to  one-half,  and  in  1881  it  exceeded  a  third  for  all 
Europeans,  although  most  of  them  occupy  well-veutilated  houses  on  the  slope  or 
crest  of  the  hills,  and  seldom  expose  themselves  to  the  pestiferous  miasmas  of 
the  early  morning.  The  black  troops  constituting  the  colonial  military  force 
suffer  far  more  than  the  European  garrisons,  and  the  vital  statistics  for  the  whole 
population  show  a  continual  increase  of  mortality  over  the  birth-rate,  amounting 
to  1,248  for  the  five  years  ending  in  187i>.  Animals  introduced  from  the  north, 
as  well  as  horses  imi)orted  from  the  interior  of  the  continent,  perish  rapidly. 
European  dogs  take  the  fever  like  their  masters,  while  animals  which  resist 
undergo  great  transformations.  All  lambs  are  born  with  black  heads,  which  may 
perhai)8  be  a  retui'u  to  a  jnimitive  type ;  dogs  change  their  coats,  lengthen  their 
ears,  and  cease  to  bark,  while  cats  turn  grey  and  acquire  longer  jaws  and  legs. 


.M^-i^W^>^?m^kmM^ijimMS'^^^^&m^mi^MMi^>mm' 


SIERRA-LEONE. 


203 


Inhaiutants. 

The  dominant  race  in  the  interior  of  Sicrni-Leone  is  the  powerful  Tinini 
(Tiinani,  Temne)  nation,  niunberin<?  about  two  hundred  thousand  ])ers()ns.  divided 
into  several  tribes  and  into  as  many  "kingdoms"  as  there  are  villages.  It  was  a 
Tinnii  chief  who  sold  to  the  English  the  Sierra- Leone  peninsula  ;  but  the  old 
owners  of  the  land  did  not  entirely  acquiesce  in  the  transaction,  and  daring  the 
early  period  of  the  occupation  the  liritish  were  frequently  attacked  by  the  natives. 
Defeated  on  the  continent,  and  driven  in  their  turn  from  their  jjalisaded  villages, 
they  have  lost  heart  although  not  yet  completely  subdued.  So  recently  as  IHH')  a 
village  near  Waterloo,  some  2-'}  miles  south-east  of  Freetown,  was  surjjriseil,  some 
men  killed,  and  some  women  and  children  carried  away  into  cajjtivity. 

The  Timni  are  centred  chiefly  in  the  plains  between  the  Kokelle  and  Little 
Scarcie  rivers.  They  are  a  fine  vigorous  race  with  pleasant  features  and  proud 
bearing,  at  least  in  the  more  remote  districts,  where  they  have  not  yet  been  br<mght 
under  the  "civilising"  influences  of  the  capital.  Industrious  tillers  of  the  soil, 
they  raise  enough  rice,  cocoa-nuts,  aud  other  produce,  to  supply  the  wants  of 
Freetown. 

The  Timni  language,  widespread  as  the  common  medium  of  intercourse  in  tlus 
Ilokelle  basin,  has  been  carefully  studied,  especially  by  Schlencker,  who  has  pub- 
lished a  good  granunar  and  complete  dictionary.  Collecticms  have  also  been  made 
of  the  national  myths,  proverbs,  and  tales,  and  s(>veral  religious  works  have  been 
translated  into  this  idiom,  which  resend)les  the  Su-Su,  and  still  more  closely  the 
Landuman  dialect.  The  Timni  have  hitherto  resisted  Mohammedan  and  Christian 
influences,  although  firm  believers  in  the  efficacy  of  crosses  and  ^Moslem  anudets. 
The  tr'bal  government  is  monarchical,  but  the  regal  office  nuiy  at  times  prove 
fatal  to  candidates  for  the  post.  In  some  places  the  future  subjects  of  the  king 
have  the  right  of  beating  him  on  the  eve  of  vhe  decticm,  and  this  is  occasionally 
done  so  energetically  that  he  does  not  always  survi  e  the  infliction. 

The  real  power  belongs  to  the  so-called  pttrra,  or  porro,  an  association  which 
judges  both  ruler  and  ruled,  and  to  which  even  slaves  are  admitted  on  terms  of 
perfect  equality.  It  is  a  sort  of  freenuisonry  analogous  to  the  boli  of  the  Su-Sus, 
and  to  similar  secret  societies  widely  diffused  throughout  West  Africa,  all  with  their 
special  language,  tattoo  marks,  and  symbols,  forming  a  powerful  religious  and 
political  state  within  the  state.  But  amongst  the  Timni  tribe  they  are  most 
potent  for  good  or  evil.  When  their  maiulates  are  issued  all  wars  and  civil  strife 
must  cease,  a  general  truce  is  established,  and  bloodshed  stopped,  off(>nding  com- 
munities being  punished  by  bands  of  armed  men  in  masks.  Strangers  cannot 
enter  the  country'  unless  escorted  by  a  member  of  the  guild,  who  is  recognised  by 
pass- words,  symbolic  gestures,  and  the  like.  Their  secret  rites  are  celebrated  at 
night  in  the  depths  of  the  forest,  all  intruders  being  put  to  death  or  sold  ae 
slaves. 

In  these  societies  the  wizards  command  great  influence,  but  at  times  fall  victims 
to  their  mutual  jealousy.     Crocodiles  and  rapacious  beasts  are  also  regarded  as 


m 


m 


*'«**%g|;,. 


204 


WEST  AFRICA. 


musicians.  >uu\  whon  tlicy  carry  off  a  human  lu>in<?  the  village  of  the  victim  is 
given  to  the  Ham<  s  in  order  to  avert  the  evil  omen.  Uiit  when  a  member  of  the 
tribe  dies  a  natural  death  a  .solemn  iiuiuest  is  hehl  over  his  remains,  his  supposed 
murden>r  being  killed  in  his  turn,  or  else  enslaved  with  all  his  family. 

Other  close  neighbours  of  the  English  settlement  of  Freetown  are  the  BuHoms 
or  r.uUams,  vho  have  been  broken  by  the  pressure  of  the  more  powerful  Timni 
into  two  distinct  fragments,  the  nortliern  BuUoms,  a  .small  tribe  occupying  the 
coast  between  the  Mallecory  Uiver  an<l  the  Sierra-Leone  estuary,  and  the  Mampuas, 


Fig.  8.5.  — Tkeiutoky  of  hie  Wkstkun  Maxhinoanh  in  Sierra- I.konf. 

Boale  1 :  3,OOU,000. 


t5* West   of   r-reenw'cti 


iJcptlirj. 


Oto32 

Feet 


83  to  80 
Feet. 


80  to  160 
Feet. 


160  Feet  and 
upwards. 


,  00  Miles. 


or  Southern  Rulloms,  of  Sherbro  Ishmd  and  the  neighbouring  district.  The 
HuUom  lungiiage,  much  affected  by  foreign  ck^mcnts,  belongs  to  the  same  stock  us 
the  Timni.  The  forest  districts  east  of  the  Mampuas,  near  the  Liberian  frontier,  arc 
held  by  the  Mendis  (Mendes),  who,  however,  reject  this  name  as  implying  the  idea 
of  shivery,  and  call  themselves  Kossu  (Kossu),  that  is,  according  to  Winwood 
Read,  "  Wild  IJours."  The  Mendis,  who  sjjcak  a  distinct  language,  are  a  warlike 
people,  by  whom,  either  alone  or  in  alliance  with  the  English,  the  Timni  have 
often  been  defeated. 


i«M 


s^mm^s$mmWm^!m0S^'^v^wmmB» 


r- 5!sr 


8IEREA-LE0NE. 


205 


LUS, 


North-oast  of  the  Timiii  the  com'-sluipod  huts  of  (ho  Liinbus  occupy  the  crests 
of  all  the  hills  about  the  middle  course  of  the  Little  Scarcie.  The  Liinbas  are  a 
powerful  tribe,  who  often  close  the  trade  route  through  their  territory.  Thoy 
show  great  respect  for  their  dead,  burying  them  in  an  upright  position,  as  if 
about  to  resume  the  journey  through  life  in  tlu>  after-world. 

The  communications  between  Sierra-Leone  and  the  Upper  Niger  are  also 
occasionally  endangered  by  the  Saffrokos  and  Kouos,  who  dwell  more  to  the  south 
in  the  hillv  regions,  about  the  sources  of  the  coast  streams.     Still  more  warlike 

Fig.  8G.— Inhabit AXTs  of  Sieera-Leove. 

Sciile  I    li.OOO.OOO. 


West    of   [jree.nwlch 


DepthH. 


0  to  32 
feet. 


32  to  80 
Feet. 


80  to  IIW 
Fi-ft. 


UWFeetnnd 
upwiirds. 


60  Mllea. 


are  the  Gallinas  of  the  Gallina  ami  Manna  rivers  on  the  Liberian  frontier,  who 
till  recently  barred  all  European  access  to  the  interior.  Even  since  the  suppresaicm 
of  thii  slave-trade  they  have  continued  their  hereditary  feuds  with  their  Kussu 
neighbours  on  the  lun-th  and  the  Vei  people  on  the  south-east,  and  have  even 
waged  war  against  the  "  American  "  Negroes  of  Liberia.  Lately,  the  queen  of 
one  of  their  most  powerful  tribes  became  the  ally  of  the  English,  who  through  her 
interposition  are  now  the  supreme  masters  of  the  whole  country.  These  Gallinas 
ure  in  some  resjiects  well  qualified  to  cultivate  the  arts  of  peace  as  well  as  of  war. 


"mi^' 


«#; 


20G 


WEST  AFiaCA. 


^^fi 


<»^ 


»  u 


mil 


They  arc  noted  especially  for  their  aesthetic  taste,  and  amongst  them  are  many 
skilful  goldsmiths  and  woodearvers  endowed  with  C(msideruble  original  talent. 
Of  all  the  coast  peoples  they  have  been  most  iutlueneed  by  Islam,  and  are  at 
present  in  the  transitional  state  between  Animism  and  Mohammedanism.  They 
claim  to  be  of  Eastern  origin,  and  on  the  seaboard  form  the  van  of  the  Maiidingan 
tribes  pressing  forward  from  the  interior. 

As  in  Senegambia,  this  general  pressure  of  the  inland  on  the  coast  peoples  is 
continually  going  on.  In  the  north-east  the  Ilubus  ( Fulahs)  arc  thus  gradually 
oneroacliing  on  the  inhabitants  of  the  Seareies  rivers  ;  in  the  east  the  Mandingnn 
and  Siirakoh'"  traders  are  in  the  same  way  gaining  on  their  neighbours,  and 
introducing  them  to  a  more  advanced  civilisation.  Since  the  middle  of  this 
century  the  Ilubus  here  constituted  a  state  independent  of  the  Timbo  chief, 
escaping  subjection  by  migrating  from  the  Ui)per  Hating  basin  south-westwards, 
to  the  hilly  district  about  the  sources  of  the  Seareies.  IJut  this  movement  ha.s 
given  rise  to  incessant  conflicts  with  the  surrounding  tribes,  the  cause  of  Islam 
still  serving  as  the  cloak  for  incursions  and  pillage.  Their  very  naine  is  derived 
from  the  burden  of  their  warlike  songs,  IIii,  btt :  "  We  love  the  prophet,  united  in 
his  love  :  " 

Of  the  indigenous  tribes  several  have  remained  pagans,  and  these  dift'er  little 
in  their  social  state  from  the  neighbouring  Limbas,  Saft'rokos,  and  Konos.  Such 
are  the  Kurankos,  who  hold  the  valleys  stretching  east  of  the  Timni  to  and  beyond 
the  sources  of  the  Niger.  Here  they  are  grouped  in  oligarchic  communities, 
recognising  a  chii'f,  but  governing  themselves  by  a  council  of  elders,  who  settle 
disputes  according  to  established  usage,  and  who  determine  an  ecpiitable  award 
between  crime  and  punishment,  wrong  and  its  retribution.  The  vendetta  still 
prevails,  the  victim's  family  claiming  blood  for  biood,  but  the  nnirderer  of  a  slave 
escaping  with  slavery  unless  ransomed  by  payment  of  the  full  value. 

The  Solimas,  akin  to  the  Su-Sus  and  Senegalese  Jallonkes,  are  more  cultured 
than  the  Kurankos,  although  like  them  still  despised  by  the  Mandingans  and  Ilubus 
as  foes  of  Islam.  They  dwell  between  the  Ilubus  and  Kurankos  in  the  picturesque 
region  of  hill  and  dale  about  the  sources  of  the  Seareies,  and  thence  to  the  Joliba. 
Like  their  neighbours,  they  speak  a  Mandlngan  idiom,  and  also  resemble  the 
Gambian  Mandingans  in  their  love  of  nnisic.  They  wage  incessant  war  against 
the  I'ulahs,  decoratir.g  the  great  battle-drum  round  about  with  the  beards  of  the 
slain,  each  inscribed  with  the  name  of  its  former  bearer.  Neverthele.S8  the  pagan 
Solimas  arc  amongst  the  most  polished  ])eoples  of  West  Africa,  (^mifort  is  widely 
dilfused,  their  fields  are  carefull}'  tilled,  their  towns  well  ordered,  and  their 
minute  code  of  etiquette  rigorously  observed  by  all.  Strangers  are  always  welcome 
aJHongst  them,  and  Luing,  Reade,  Zweifel  and  Moustior  have  spoken  in  high 
terms  of  the  generous  hospitality  accorded  to  them  by  these  pagan  highlanders. 
But  there  is  a  dark  side  to  the  picture,  and  Reade  was  informed  that  at  his 
accession  the  new  king  gives  his  youngest  daughter  to  the  sacred  crocodiles, 
thereby  bearing  witness  that  for  his  people's  sake  no  sacrifice  will  be  held  too  great. 

Mandingan  traders  are  numerous  in  Freetown,  and  thanks  to  them,  Islam  is 


^^P^iS?§!SsSWi«^?^^t*=''vm:|^^r^ 


SIERRA-LEONE. 


207 


daily  {raining  fjnmiul  in  tliis  Negro  town,  founded  by  the  English  and  Christian 
nii.'ssionuries.  In  1H8(I  the  Moslem  community  already  numbered  three  thousand 
adljcrents,  who  were  wealthy  enough  to  erect  a  sumptuous  mostjue  in  the  place. 
Here  are  represented  uU  the  races  of  West  Africa,  and  a  hundred  and  tifty  languages 
were  current  in  this  town,  which  the  English  cruisers  had  made  the  general  depot  of 
the  captives  roscunl  from  the  "  slavers."  After  havinu'  long  been  a  hotbed  of  tlio 
traffic  in  human  flesh,  Sierra-Leone  thus  became  an  asylum  for  the  fugitives,  a  land 
of  liberty  for  the  emancipated  Negroes.  The  English  company  who  in  I'lJUuid 
obtained  the  privilege  of  furnishing  the  Spanish-American  possessions  with  slaves, 
transported  in  exceptional  years  as  many  as  sixty  thous  nid,  the  product  ot  wars  in 
which  at  least  twice  as  many  victims  perished. 

But  it  was  also  at  Sierra-Leone  that  in  1787  Granville  Sharp  and  Smeathrnan 
acquired  from  the  Timni  chiefs  a  strip  of  territory  to  be  converted  into  a  land  of 
freedom.  A  first  group  of  black  colonists  was  here  established,  and  at  the  close  of 
the  Am(>rican  War  of  Independence  these  were  joined  by  other  refugees  from 
Nova  Scotia.  Most  of  them  perished  of  hunger  and  misery,  but  were  replaced  by 
others  from  Canada  and  Jamaica,  and  after  the  official  abolition  of  the  slave-trade 
in  1807,  the  Hritish  Government  replaced  the  Sierra-Leone  Company  as  masters  of 
th(>  peuinsida,  using  it  not  only  as  a  home  for  rescued  freemen,  but  also  as  a  con- 
vict station  for  mutineers  from  its  other  tropical  possessions. 

Tills  intermingling  of  peoples  of  diverse  speech  and  origin  has  produced  a 
hybrid  population  unlike  any  other  on  the  west  coast,  where  they  bear  a  bad  name 
for  greed,  hypocrisy,  and  degraded  morals.  Nevertheless,  the  Sierra-Leonese  arc 
an  industrious,  ent(>rprising  people,  and  their  blacksmiths,  carpenters,  and  other 
artisans  are  highly  valued  in  all  the  seaboard  towns.  Some  even  profess  to  teach, 
if  not  English,  at  least  an  English  jargon  to  all  the  coast  tribes,  notably  those  of 
the  Su-Sus  of  the  Pongo  River.  Descendants  of  the  freenum  are  met  as  far  inland 
as  the  Niger  basin,  where  they  are  generally  known  as  potii,  or  "whites,"  not 
merely  because  many  are  half-castes,  but  more  especially  because  they  represent  a 
higher  culture,  and  by  their  very  presence  recall  such  events  as  the  suppression 
of  the  slave-trade,  and  the  emancipation  of  the  Negro.  Some  tribes  have  even 
been  induced  by  their  example  to  abolish  servitude,  and  in  the  Scarcies  basin  a 
petty  state  has  been  founded,  consisting  entirely  of  fugitive  slaves,  whose  courage 
and  free  k^aring  have  secured  for  them. the  respect  of  their  neighbours. 

The  diverse  origin  of  the  Freetown  Negroes  has  compelled  them  to  adopt  Eng- 
lish as  the  common  medium  of  intercourse,  but  in  their  mouths  this  language  has 
been  so  strangely  transformed  that  no  European  Englishman  would  understand 
it  ut  first,  although  consisting  of  but  a  very  limited  number  of  words.  The  Mora- 
vian Brothers  had  translated  the  Testament  into  this  jargon ;  but  the  style  and 
words  necessarily  used  by  the  translators  seemed  so  whimsical  that,  through  a 
feeling  of  reverence  for  the  sacred  text,  the  volume  had  to  be  destroyed.  It  bore 
the  name  of  "Da  Njoe  Testament,  translated  into  the  Negro- English  language  by 
the  Jilissionaries  of  the  vUnitas  Fratrum,"  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society, 
London,  1829. 


"W^' 


■-it^^r. 


208 


WEST  AI'KICA. 


Tho  ciniincipiittHl  Sit'ira-TiOoneso  nrc  supposed  to  bo  all  Protestants  of  various 
denoiiiinations  ;  nevertheless,  maiiv  traces  of  the  old  heathendom  survive  anionirst 
iheni,  and  some  sects,  mostly  from  the  Slave  Coast,  still  worship  tire,  thunder  and 
lifjfhtuing.  In  tho  "colony"  nearly  all  chihlren  attend  school,  tho  youii<^  men 
continuing  their  studies  in  the  secondary  establishments,  and  in  the  Furah  Hay 
Colleg(>  attached  to  tho  University  of  Durham. 

At  tho  census  of  1S81  tho  white  population  numbered  only  two  hundretl  and 
seventy-one,  and  at  times  of  sickness  it  often  falls  below  a  hundred.  The  Italian 
"mereanti"  resist  the  climate  best,  and  almost  every  steamei-  brings  a  few  of  these 
pedlars,  mostly  from  Naples,  who  bruvely  tramp  with  their  pucks  of  glass  beads 


Fig.  87.— Frketown. 

Scnle  1  :  Ida  000. 


rfVest    of    U'*eer^wiGh 


15°  IS- 


IS'10' 


PcplhB. 


0to32 
Feet. 


H'J  Fd'l  iind 
upwiii'dH. 


S  Miles. 


and  coral  from  village  to  villag(>,  living  like  the  natives,  and  enduring  hardships 
and  privations  such  as  woidd  kill  any  Hiiro])ean  unaccustomed  to  such  an  existence. 
Thanks  to  these  intrepid  dealers,  the  retail  trade  has  acijuired  a  certain  importance, 
while  wholesale  transactions  have  declined  since  Freetown  has  ceased  to  be  the 
capital  of  all  the  English  West  Afiican  possessions.  The  polic\'  followed  by  the 
Govennnent  towards  the  tribal  chiefs  has  also  proved  ruinous  to  the  trade  of  the 
country.  I-'aithful  to  their  theory  of  armed  non-intervention,  the  English  send  no 
troops  inland,  but  they  subsidise  the  chiefs  on  the  condition  of  their  keejiing  the 
routes  open.  These  subsidies,  however,  are  mostly  devoted  to  the  purchase  of 
urms  and  nmnitious  of  war,  with  the  result  that  conflicts  are  constantly  breaking 


'■mss:ryf:vrj,-  :K\-V<;.m?M^^~^:j':^mM::^M^^^^^^ 


beads 


■»s!»»,  Tj^: . 


■VJf'.'^-'*.*- u-' 


■WIT 


210 


WEST  AFlilCA. 


i 


TorofiKATHY. 

The  roudstoad  of  Firpfoirn,  shcltori'd  off  Ciipc  Sicrra-IiCone  by  (ho  imposing 
Ciirprntor's  Kock,  prt'scnts  a  dolij^litful  prosjH'ct  whciu'vcr  the  eiicirclin<^  liills  arc 
free  from  the  clouds  tliat  enshroud  them  for  most  of  the  year.  The  primeval 
forest,  hir}>;ely  eh'are<l  by  fire,  is  disposed  in  ehiators  of  majestic  trees  with  inter- 
veninjif  grassy  or  busliy  spaces.  On  a  neighbouring  headhind  rises  a  clump  of 
gigantic  baobabs,  forming  a  consjjieuous  landmark  for  vessels  bound  for  the  road- 
stead;  charming  dells  open  between  tlic  softly  rounded  iiill.s,  above  whose  crests 
are  seen  the  summit  of  the  "  Lion  Mountain."  Houses  in  the  Kuropean  style  are 
scattered  along  the  beach,  Freetown  apiwaring  in  the  background  between  the 
Fxirah  and  Krooboy  inlets. 

Omuvillt',  the  first  cajjital  of  the  Negro  colony,  had  l)een  founded  in  a  neigh- 
bouring plain,  but  after  its  destruction  by  a  Krench  scjuadron  in  17!>4  it  was  never 
rebuilt.  Unfortunately,  choice  was  afterwards  made  of  the  unhealthy  bay  of 
Freetown,  instead  of  some  site  more  removed  from  the  marshes  and  more  expos(>d 
to  the  sea  breezes.  However,  the  higher  parts,  even  of  Freetown,  are  relatively 
salubrious,  and  the  yellow  fever  has  often  visited  the  lower  ([uarters  without 
attacking  tlie  barracks,  erected  (m  a  hill  400  feet  high.  Freetown,  which  covers  a 
space  of  four  scpuire  miles,  contains  some  fine  buildings,  schools,  churches,  and 
Government  ofiices.  Hut  some  of  the  streets  are  in  ruins,  and  many  dilapidated 
structures  are  overgrown  with  grass  or  shrubs.  Freetown  is  the  chief  West 
African  uuirket  for  wild  aninuds,  and  here  the  agents  of  the  European  menageries 
come  to  purchase  snakes,  carnivora,  gorillas,  and  chimpanzees. 

Besides  this  city  of  some  thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  there  are  no  towns 
properly  so  called  in  the  British  possessions,  altiiough  the  peninsuhi  is  dotted  over 
with  villages  bearing  English  names,  such  as  Aherdven,  Wilhcrforrr,  TFcZ/uii/foii, 
Ii('(/ciif,  Yorh,  irasfiiiys,  and  Waterloo.  In  the  interior  Port  Lold-o  has  actpiired  , 
some  importance  from  its  position  on  the  Lokko  River,  which  flows  to  the  Rokelle 
estuary.  Kaiiihia,  lying  farther  north,  is  the  chief  agricultural  centre  in  the  Great 
Scarcie  basin. 

Sinnata,  near  the  source  of  the  same  river,  and  beyond  the  British  frontier, 
is  a  rallying- point  for  caravans  proceeding  to  Futa-.Iallon.  On  the  Kabba,  a 
northern  affluent  of  the  liittle  Scarcie,  lies  the  busy  market  of  Smixn/rt, 
capital  of  the  Tambakka,  or  Tambuchi  (Su-Su)  tribe.  In  the  Limba  territory  the 
chief  places  are  Bninha  and  Biimhadi  (Big  and  Little  Bumba).  Knhalln  is  the 
residence  of  the  most  powerful  Kuranko  potentate,  and  Falchn,  also  in  the  liittle 
Scarcie  basin,  is  the  capital  of  the  Solima  nation.  It  is  a  prosperous  place  near 
the  depress-on  leading  to  the  Upper  Niger,  and,  according  to  Blyden,  marks  the 
most  convenient  site  for  the  construction  of  a  railway  from  Sierra-Leone  to  the 
Joliba. 

Towards  the  Liborian  frontier  well-known  places  for  holding  "  palavers  "  are 
Baharma  and  Bandaauma,  capital  of  the  queen  of  the  Barri  tribe  in  the  Sulimu 
basin. 


^^mM^m^'  '■"m^''9^f^iimwh.<^^Bi-^-ii^m'^^^^^^r^  -  -m^^^^^^^SM- 


SIEHP.A-T.KONE. 


AimiMSTKATION. 


211 


The  colony  of  Sierra- Ii<'<)ni>  is  iuliiiinistori'd  by  a  j^oviTiinr,  assisted  by  a  fouiioil, 
and  paid  from  the  colonial  revenues,  wliieh  are  derivwl  chieHy  from  eiiNtoms,  and 
exceed  .t'8(),(IO(>  a  year  The  jjarrison  eonnists  of  Nej^roeH  and  half-castes  from  the 
West  Indies,  (-((miiianded  by  Kuropean  otlieers,  all  hijfhly  paid.  The  poliee  service 
is  entrusted  mainly  to  the  Kjjbas,  and  to  some  other  natives  from  the  Ni;;(>r  and 
the  Slave  Coast.  A  period  of  eighteen  months'  service  in  this  fever-stricken 
region  entith's  all  officers  to  a  twelve  months'  leave  of  absence  on  lull  jiay.  They 
have  ulso  the  advantage  iii  health  resorts,  such  as  Madeira,  the  Canaries,  and  the 
neighbouring  Itanana  Island. 

F'jreigners  cannot  purcha.se  land  in  the  settlement  without  first  becoming 
naturalis(>d. 


1 


m 


f] 


>\.i  -^f^  r!»- 


fe 


'II 


riiAiTKi;  vr. 

ITPER  (illNEA. 
Lllir.Kl  \. 


TIE  "  Lmul  of  Liborty  "  has  not  yi't  fulfil I<'d  all  tho  immiiscs  iiiude 
on  its  boliiiH'  l)v  its  founders.  llonoo,  by  an  inevitable  roaetion, 
most  travellers  casually  toui'liinj^  at  some  port  of  the  rojmblic 
allow  tlioiiiselves  to  indulge  in  severe  cousures,  too  often  inspired 
bv  racial  prejudice.  Hut  surely  the  very  constitution  itself  of  a 
society  consisting  exclusively  of  the  cbildrcu  of  slaves  or  frei'dnu-n,  developed  in  a 
region  where  tho  .slavers  were  wont  to  collect  their  gangs  of  captivus,  must  b" 
regarded  as  an  event  (d  supremo  importance.  In  any  case,  far  from  being  a  weaker 
or  worse  organised  state  than  tlio  nei<^hl)ouring  Huropeau  "c<donies,"  Jiibrria  has 
at  least  the  advantage  of  being  a  colonv  in  the  true  sense  of  tiie  word.  Its  iiinni- 
grant  founders  were  not  mere  passing  travellers,  but  here  took  uj)  their  permanent 
abddis  and  here  their  issue  hav(!  continued  tho  work  begim  by  them.  In  speech, 
usages,  and  institutions  they  even  represent  European  culturi'  itself.  Yi  i  they 
are  blacks  like  the  natives,  and,  although  too  often  keeping  aloof  from  them  in  the 
fatal  character  of  "civilised  aristocrats,"  they  have  noiu'  the  less,  in  the  long  run, 
exercised  considerable  intluence  on  tho  tribes  in  whose  domain  they  have  taken  up 
their  abode.  With  their  neighbours  they  have  mostly  dwelt  in  jjcace,  and  loss  l)y 
force  of  aims  than  by  friendly  treaties  they  have  succeeded  in  acquiring  the 
political  su])romacy  over  the  extcnsivi'  region  at  the  western  angle  of  the  continent. 
Still  the  Liborians  have  also  had  their  wars  with  the  surroutiding  wild  tribes,  whom 
they  have  reduced  by  barbarous  measures,  cutting  down  their  jalm-groves  and 
wasting  their  tiU(>d  \i  ids. 

In  1815  some  fo  -ty  American  Xegroes  wore  brought  over  to  Siorra-Ti(>on(>  by  a 
wealthy  f'ellow-cou  drvman  of  Massachusetts,  and  next  year  an  American  s()ci(>ty 
was  founded  for  sf  ttting  emancipated  slaves  on  tho  African  sealiKird,  whence  their 
ancestors  had  boo  a  carried  off.  But  the  first  expedition  under  its  auspices  did 
not  take  place  til  ■  H"20.  It  was  directed  to  Furah  Bay  in  the  Sierra-Leone  estuary  ; 
but  having  hcffl  badly  received  by  the  Eni'lish,  the  settlement  was  removed 
iu  18:22  to  a  ba''  commauded  by  Cape  Meiisurado,  -ilO  miles  south-east  of  Freetown. 


f^s;i^^.: 


.;■v:^,^Jf■■^;^L: 


^':Mc^&^ilM^^S'i-'MWmS&'     W^    f 


Ur.KUIA. 


!18 


After  the  Hrnt  ili(ruiillii»«  were  Aiirm<t(intu<i  tho  «r»liin\  ;,'ni<ln;illy  oNpaiiflcd,  strip 
uflfi-  strip  lit"  tiTi-itarv  lH'iii<»  adiU-d  your  ul'tcr  vi-ar,  iiml  parcfllcW  <>ut  in  the 
AliK'i'icaii  lasliiiiii  in  ^jumiiL'triral  parallel  lines  at  ri^'hl  aii);le>  with  tin-  enast. 

llitt  tile  settlenu>iil  <li<l  iini  vol  couNtituto  an  imlepi-ndeut  state,  an<t  emtinuufl 
t(»  l»e  administered  l)\  dele;;att's  of  the  American  society,  w  heneu  artiso  tivpielit 
diplomatic  diliicidlies,  tlu>  KM;;lish  ti  iders  on  the  coast  refn^in;;  to  jtay  cnstonH 
to  a  private  company.  At  last  tho  nn«iety  siirrenderecl  its  claims,  and  tlie  reviln- 
tiuuury  year,   li<lf<,  saw  the  hirth  of  tiu;   new  .Negro    Uepnidic  ou  Alrituu  noil. 

Fig.  H9.— TEnillTORIKfl   .*SNK.XEn  to  the  CoW.NY  of  Mo.NliOVIA. 
Pfiil.'  1  :  s.'iOil,(X)n 


inieat   of  breenv^'C" 


n 


Depths. 


OtowW 
Feet. 


6«i  Vvit  and 
uiiwiinN. 


m>  Miles. 


^Inst  of  tho  poMors  linstoned  to  rocojjnisc  the  independt  nc(»  of  Liheria,  which  at 
that  time  comprised  ahout  eight  thonsand  "eiti/ens,"  and  three  linndred  and  tifty 
thoiLsand  natives.  In  l.S8'^  the  Hr.st  had  im-reased  to  eighteen  thousand,  while  .dl 
the  other  inhabitants  of  the  va.ssal  .states  were  ap])roximately  estimated  at  one 
million  and  tifty  th(msand;  hut  from  thi^  numl)er  must  he  deducted  the  people  of 
the  coast  between  Manna  Point,  near  Shcrbro  Ishind,  and  the  river  ^lanna  near 
Cape  Mount,  which  was  definitely  annexed  to  Sierra -Leone  in  1HS;{. 

At  present  the  area  of  coloni.sation  covers  an  extent  of   lO.OOO  stpiaro  miles. 
But  the  State  would  he  four  times  more  extensive  if  bo  included  all  the  territories 


il 


III 

i  H 

4 'II I 

It 


214 


WEST  AFUICA. 


officially  pnitoctod  in  virtuo  of   treaties  eoncludod  with  tho  native  populations, 
Bonie  of  which  oven  iio  t<»  the  east  of  tho  hills  in  the  Nij^or  basin. 


''MA 


■I'tlii;., 


''  Ami 


I'lly'"'    ,;„: 


!' ^:i'ffir"ii|!«'fl|rrl• 


:i|  !W':- 


\;:|i'.:' 


^ '■■■';,"':■  ■:iip'"'"N 


tWiV 


a 

5 


o 

I 


ll'V    '    'I'.il; 
lUi 


',;l||:!ijj|;;;:i'„iiii«. 


I"     S'SlT  i       ,1'' 

.  ■Ife ,, 


Ii: 


\m 


■fl  I  >         ■  H 


I'll 


,,!l:.ii;,:!i,i;,fe, 


|iiii|iiii!iiii!lli'"?'Jiii!!i;ii.i:;a'.i:i!i'iii,iiiiiiim,b 


As  now  delimited,  the  territory  of  the  republic  forma  a  somewhat  regular 


■'^i'-^K^:.^,^?^sl^'^ 


rf-^ii,,mmmim&mm^mm^mm^^m^^^^^^^^^^m^.-  ^ 


LIIJKRIA. 


215 


lli 


(|na(lriIiitoral,  Htrt't«'lunpf  '{HO  miles  aloiiji;  th(>  const,  with  an  nvcrnf^o  hriadlli  (if 
I'iO  inilfs.  Tlic  H«'alM)anl  is  intorsootcMl  l»y  nuiiicnuis  streaniH  immtly  with  luiirow 
hasiiis,  and  Howin^  in  paralU'l  hi'ds  from  aorth-oast  t(»  sdiith-wust,  uccordinj;  to  tho 
normal  s1o|k'  of  the  hmd.  At  hi;j;h  wattT  and  tliiriiij,'  the  iK'riodical  floods  nrarlv 
all  tilt' low  foiintrv  In'twi'rn  the  first  lint'  of  hills  in  iho  iutt-rior  and  f ho  coast 
dunos  is  subnurgi'd.  The  Saint  I'anl,  lar^i-st  of  the  lyibcriaii  rivers,  rises  nearly 
200  miles  from  the  Hca,  north  of  the  I*'oma  hills  and  staith  of  the  Loma  ranjre, 
which  separates  its  Inisin  from  that  of  the  Nij^er.  It  is  navij^ahle  for  al)ou*  "JO 
miles  l»y  vesHels  drawing,'  10  feet,  and  even  above  the  rapids  tlu  n])pcr  reaches  are 
in  many  places  deep  enon;j;h  for  river  craft.  Jtnt  u  danffcrons  bar  at  its  mouth 
obli^'cs  all  sea;,M)in<^  vessels  to  ride  at  anchor  in  ^lonrovia  May.  The  Saint  Paul  in 
joined  in  a  coiumon  delta  by  the  Mensurado,  and  farther  east  two  other  rivers, 
the  (iiieah  and  the  .Junk,  converge  on  the  coast.  Other  considerable  st reams  uro 
tho  Cestos,  Sanj^wiii  (Sanguin),  Sinu,  and  Cuvally  (Cavalla),  the  last  so  named  l»y 
the  I'ortuf^ueso  because  it  is  within  a  ride  ("cavalcade")  of  Cape  I'almas. 
Ueyond  tliis  point  follows  tho  San-l*edro,  formiufj;  tho  eastern  frontier  within  the 
limits  of  the  Ivory  Coast  on  thetiulf  of  (jr.  inea.  Several  of  ihese  streams,  notably 
th»!  Cavally,  are  accessible  to  boats  for  Til  mi!os  from  the  coa.st,  which  is  hero 
endan<j^ered  by  numerous  sandbanks.  ( 'no  steamshi]  ccmipany  ulone  lost  six 
vessels  in  ten  years  betwoou  Sierra-Leone  and  Cajv.   I'alnuis. 

Most  of  the  liiberiaii  rivers  are  separated  froui  each  (»tl"r  by  intervening 
ridges  or  spurs  projecting  from  the  Mandingan  plateau.  H  '  most  of  the  sea- 
board is  low,  eithi  i'  fringed  with  lagoons  or  carved  by  th.  v.'  ves  into  small  red 
and  white  clift's,  with  here  and  there  a  few  conspicu  !'«  headlands.  S"  h  is  Ca])e 
Mount,  u  wooded  almost  insular  bluff,  whoso  high '.st  c  vst  rises  l,0(i.)  feet  above 
sea-level.  Cape  Mensurado  (Montserrudo),  although  less  elevated  ('^80  feet),  jj  n 
more  important  object  for  mariners,  us  it  projects  farther  seaward  and  marks  th- 
cntrauce  to  the  port  of  Monrovia,  capital  of  the  republic.  In  tho  interior  is  visible 
a  chain  of  hills  cuhniiuuing  in  the  Table  Mountain,  1,100  feet  high.  North  of 
Cape  I'alnuis,  at  the  angle  of  the  continent  betwciu  the  Atlantic  and  (Julf  of 
Guinea,  another  hilly  mass,  consisting  of  red  sand.stone,  ries  to  a  height  of  1,004 
feet.  In  several  places,  and  especially  to  the  east  of  Mcmrovia,  eruptive  rocks 
have  cropped  out,  but  tho  prevailing  formation  a])pear8  to  be  a  reddish  clay  over- 
lain by  a  fernigin(ms  sandstone  like  that  of  Sierra-Leone  and  Senegambia. 

The  Mandingan  plateau  when  cI.  i-^'l  of  its  natural  growth  of  tall  gras,ses  is 
extremely  fertile,  and  according  to  Aii<J;,i\son,  potatoes  here  grow  to  a  size  of  eight 
or  ten  pounds.  On  the  escarpments  of  this  plateau  are  strewn  some  granite 
boulders,  several  of  which  are  '  ored  with  stria),  another  indication  that  these 
equatorial  regions  bad  also  thoi;  glacial  period. 


Climate. 


The  seasons  are  less  regular  in  Liberia  than  on  the  more  nc    horn  coastlands, 
which  must  doubtless  be  attributed  to  the  change  in  the  direction  A  the  shore-line, 


216 


WEST  AFRICA. 


facin<»  in  one  direction  westwards,  in  iinntlior  southwards.  But  the  general 
distribution  of  the  seasons  is  the  same  as  in  Seneganibia,  the  year  being  divided 
into  a  dry  period  lasting  from  December  to  the  end  of  April,  and  a  wet,  which  is 
again  divided  into  a  period  of  heavy  and  one  of  slight  rains.  The  torrential 
downpours  last  from  the  beginning  of  May  to  the  middle  of  August,  when  an 
interval  of  fine  weather  is  followed  towards  the  end  of  September  by  fresh  rains 
accompanied  by  sudden  storms. 

Notwithstanding  its  equatorial  position,  the  mean  annual  temperature  of 
Jilonrovia  is  not  more  than  81  F.,  the  daily  variations  lying  between  77"  and 
8(i^ ;  in  other  words,  its  climate  corresponds  to  that  of  hot  sunnnors  in  temperate 


% 


111 


Fig.  01.  -Chief  Routes  of  Explobeiis  in  Lideuia. 
Scale  I  :  0,000,000. 


Depth*. 


OtoBOO 
Feet. 


600  I'eet  iind 
ui>wardB. 


120  Miles. 


zones.  The  greatest  extremes  occur  during  the  dry  season,  when  the  intense  heat 
of  the  day  is  followed  by  comparatively  cool  nights,  caused  by  the  harmattan 
blowing  from  the  uplands  of  the  interior.  The  harmattan  is  mostly  accompanied 
by  dense  fogs,  which  are  generally  dissipated  during  the  morning,  but  which  at 
times  last,  like  those  of  England,  all  day  long.  Normally  the  atmospheric  currents 
succeed  each  other  with  the  regularity  of  clockwork.     The  land-breeze  prevails  in 


•4^u^,  /5  f      *l'<sfot-.'*<4^ 


n 


Si;i  >i'*'*ml 


Wti 


m 


■-^^aaf«*' 


i-r;^*'  y-'-y — r^i? — vwr'f'"''"  ■" 


?ir 


LIBERIA. 


217 


the  morning,  following  n  mean  direction  from  north  to  south,  and  is  replaced  in 
tlie  afternoon  by  sea  breezes  from  the  west. 

The  liberian  climate  is  considered  highly  dangerous  for  immigrants,  but  still 
less  so  than  that  of  Sierra-Leone.  The  whites  have  a  settled  belief  that  a  residence 
of  over  three  years  would  be  fatal  to  Europeans,  who  especially  dread  the  dry 
season  and  .nai.?!  fever.  Most  maladies  cause  a  certain  decomposition  of  the 
blood,  which  is  expressed  by  the  local  saying  that  the  prick  of  a  needle  first  draws 
a  drop  of  water  and  then  one  of  blood.  Even  Negroes  from  the  United  States  are 
liable  to  marsh  fever,  from  which  the  aborigines  are  exempt. 

Fl.OKA    OF    LlltKlUA. 

The  Liberian  flora,  coming  within  tlie  Sudanese  zone,  difFers  little  from  that 
of  Sierra-Leone,  which  it  rivals  in  the  wealth  of  its  vegetation  and  the  extent  and 
beauty  of  its  woodlands.  Even  the  dunes  ..re  clothed  with  plants,  such  as  the 
convolvulus  with  its  flowery  wreaths,  and  the  dwarf  palm  {lii/plKViif)  expanding  its 
fan-shaped  foliage  within  a  few  feet  of  the  ground.  The  cocoa-nut,  introduced 
iit  an  unknown  date,  here  found  a  congenial  soil,  and  has  run  wild  not  only  on  the 
coast  but  also  along  the  riverain  tracts.  Few  of  the  imcultivated  plants  yield 
edible  fruits,  although  liiberia  is  the  home  of  a  variety  of  the  colfee  plant  which 
grows  spontaneously  in  the  forests,  and  which  has  recently  acquired  great  econo- 
mic importance  for  the  revival  of  exhausted  plantations  in  other  tropical  regions. 
The  Lemilein  ranfatrix,  which  has  committed  such  havoc  in  Ceylon,  India,  Java, 
and  Brazil,  has  compelled  growers  to  replace  the  old  Abyssinian  and  Arab  stock 
by  the  Liberian  plant,  at  least  on  plantations  at  a  corresponding  altitude,  this 
variety  generally  occupying  a  lower  zone  than  that  of  the  common  species.  Its 
berry  also  is  equally  fragrant,  when  subjected  to  suitable  treatment.  It  is  not, 
however,  a  shrub  like  that  of  Arabia,  but  a  tree,  which  in  the  primeval  West 
African  forests  occasionalh'  attains  a  height  of  from  40  to  50  feet.  jMore  pre- 
cocious and  productive  than  the  ordinary  plant,  it  resists  the  attacks  of  the 
Lemileia  vastatrix,  and  flourishes  in  the  vertical  zone  comprised  between  sea-level 
and  2,800  or  3,000  feet  of  altitude,  thriving  best  in  an  argillaceous  and  slightly 
silicious  soil. 

Liberia  also  exports  palm-oil,  caoutchouc,  and  the  camwood  {hdphia  L(r)>ififo.ri/foii) 
employed  especially  in  France  for  dying  textiles.  The  native  flora  also  includes 
a  "  fever  tree,"  whose  foliage  appears  to  possess  the  efficacy  of  quinquina.  Fvw 
ground-nuts  are  now  exported,  owing  to  the  depredations  of  rodents  and  oiher 
animals,  but  the  lower  course  of  the  St.  Paul  is  already  fringed  with  cocoa-nuts 
and  sugar-cane.  But  the  so-called  "  pepper,"  which  gives  its  name  to  the  "  Grain 
Coast,"  is  now  entirely  neglected  by  exporters.  It  is  a  species  of  cardamom 
(nmomiim  graiiinn  pa rcuf hi),  which,  in  the  sixteenth  century  was  used  for  adding 
Are  to  alcoholic  drinks,  and  which  is  still  employed  by  the  natives  as  a  febrifuge 
and  for  perfuming  the  dead. 


78— AF 


'■'->f^'T£ 


:l*  's, , 


I' 


218 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Fav.na, 


The  sli<>ht  differences  that  exist  between  the  liiheriiin  and  nei<;hbouring  faunaa 
arc  exi)lained  by  the  nature  of  the  soil  and  disti-ibution  of  the  woodhinds.  On  the 
!klandiiigan  phiteau  the  savannalis  are  roamed  over  by  multitudes  of  antelopes, 
buffaloes,  and  elephants,  while  domestic  animals — horse,  ox,  goat,  and  shecj) — thrive 
well  in  the  settled  districts.  Hut  iii  the  moist  low-lying  valleys  there  arc  no  flocks 
or  herds,  and  imported  horses  ra])idly  yield  to  the  clinnite.  The  large  variety  of 
the  hippopotamus  is  rare,  and  still  rarer  the  smaller  species,  as  well  as  the  two 
varieties  of  the  crocodile.  Nor  are  rapacious  animals  very  numerous  in  the  forests, 
where  no  lions  or  hysenas  are  met,  while  the  leopards  occasionally  seen  ])rowling 
about  the  enclosures  are  timid  creatures,  of  whom  the  natives  have  no  dread. 
The  most  formidable  beast  is  a  buffalo,  the  fjtis/i-rotr  of  the  Liberians.  There  are 
also  sonu'  chimpanzees,  or  "baboons,"  as  they  are  called,  wliich  are  greatly 
res])(>ct('d  and  never  eaten,  because  of  their  resembhmce  to  man.  The  woods  are 
inhabited  bv  several  other  s])ecies  of  monkeys,  and  the  clearings  by  various  kinds 
of  antelopes,  including  the  ftjiinif/n-n,  smallest  of  the  gazelle  family.  Insects 
swarm  in  such  numbers  that  Liberia  has  been  called  the  honu'  of  the  ant,  and 
whole  (punters  of  Monrovia,  undermined  by  termites,  have  had  to  be  rebuilt. 

Intiauitants. 

The  plateauv  and  uplands  of  the  interior  are  occupied  by  the  powerfid  Man- 
dingan  nation,  who  have  advanced  from  the  east,  and  who  here  as  elsewhere  in 
Wes;  Africa  exercise  great  influence,  thanks  to  their  superior  civilisation.  At  the 
foot  of  the  escarpments  some  f(»rtitied  valleys  in  the  St.  l*aul  basin  beh)ng  to  the 
Pessi  and  I^ussi,  warlike  tribes  distinguished  by  their  extremely  courteous  manners. 
Both  have  th(>ir  distinct  speech  and  system  of  tattooing,  and,  according  to  Win- 
wood  TJi'ade,  cannibal  feasts  were  held  as  recently  as  1870.  The  Uussi  arc  qood 
husbandnu'n,  raising  large  cpiantities  of  cotton  for  export. 

A  more  powerful  and  numerous  people  are  the  Golas,  or  Guras,  who  dwell 
chiefly  along  the  western  affluents  of  the  St.  Paid  and  the  neighbouring  rivers. 
They  are  fierce  warriors,  who  are  said  to  have  nearly  exterminated  the  Deh  or 
Devoi  tribe,  some  of  whom  are  still  met  about  the  plantations  on  the  coast. 

On  the  north  frontier  the  banks  of  the  Marfa  and  Fisherman's  Ijake  are  held 
by  the  \%i,  a  branch  of  the  Mandingans,  numbering  some  fifty  thousand  souls. 
These  peaceful  agriculturists  have  mostly  adopted  Islam,  but  their  harmonious 
speech,  which  has  been  carefully  studied  by  Koell<  ,aid  other  grammarians,  is  gra- 
dually being  replaced  by  Liberian-English.  It  possessc  s  a  syllabic  alphabet  of  over 
two  hundred  characters,  invented  in  1834  by  Doalu  Rukere,  a  powerful  member  of 
the  tribe.  This  writing  system  is  even  still  used  in  correspondence  and  for  record- 
ing family  events,  and  in  it  the  inventor  wrote  a  history  of  his  nation  and  a  treatise 
on  ethics. 

Soutix  of  the  St.  Paul  follow  the  still  savage  Barlins,  and  beyond  them  the 


'!  ij 


^^<miM!P^M'-^m^^:;Tmi^^mAM^mm^m:  ^'^^mm"'' 


mm^'- 


LIBERIA. 


219 


Bassas,  the  Kroos  south  of  the  Sinu  River,  and  the  Grebos  near  Cape  Palmus.  The 
peaceful  and  industrious  IJassas,  numbering  fifty  thousand,  supply  a  great  part  of 
the  republic  with  rice,  poultry,  and  other  provisions.  A  southern  branch  of  the 
Balsas,  together  with  the  Fishermen,  the  Nifus,  Grebos,  and  Krus,  mnubcring 
collectively  about  forty  thousand,  are  grouped  under  the  general  designation  of 
Kroomen,  or  Krooboys,  eithi  r  a  corruption  of  "  crew-men,"  "  crew-boys,"  or  else 
derived  from  Kraoh,  the  primitive  name  of  one  of  their  tribes  living  near  Scttra- 
Kroo.  They  are  traditionally  from  the  interior,  the  kindred  Grebr)s  having  appa- 
rently reached  the  Cape  Palmas  district  since  the  Portuguese  discoveries.     Jiut  jhey 


1 


Fig.  92. — Teuritout  of  tuk  Kuoomen. 
Scsde  1  :  -lan.OOO. 


West   of    breenwich 


Depths. 


p  to  aa 
Feet. 


i52  to  64 
Feet. 


04  to  IfiO 
Feet. 


mt  Feet  niul 
upwards. 


C  MUes. 


have  now  become  skilful  fishermen  and  excellent  sailors,  displaying  uncolnnion 
daring,  coolness,  and  dexterity. 

The  Kroos,  properly  so  called,  form  a  compact  body  only  in  the  narrow  strip  of 
coast  between  the  Sinu  River  and  Cape  Palmas,  where  are  situated  their  five  chief 
villages,  Kroober,  Little  Kroo,  Settra-Kroo,  Nana  Kroo,  and  King  Williamstown. 
Ibit  beyond  this  territory  they  occupy  numerous  hamlets  on  the  coast,  where  every 
town  has  also  its  Kroo  quarter  (Krootown),  exclusively  inhabited  by  these  sea- 
faring Negroes.  They  are  a  stout,  muscular,  broad-chested  race,  probably  the  most 
vigorous  and  robust  of  all  African  peoples.  The  head,  joined  by  a  bull's  neck  to 
their  broad  shoulders,  presents  the  ordinary  Negro  type — flat  nose,  prominent  cheek- 
bones, thick  lips,  slightly  projecting  incisors,  yellow,  bloodshot  eyes ;  in  fact,  "  the 


III 


1^'^ 


i®^ 


S^'  "-f-^i-f^fri 


!!'■  "^ 


ilrM'^ 


220 


WEST  AllllCA. 


head  of  a  Silonus  on  tho  body  of  an  Antinous."  floridly,  as  woll  as  ])liysically,  the 
Kroos  arc  one  of  \\w  most  rcniaikablo  peoples  in  Africa.  At  once  honest  and 
proud,  and  conscious  of  tlieir  power,  tliey  are  passionately  fond  of  freedom,  never 
euduriii<j  servitude  at  the  hands  of  any  masters.  Althoug'h  settled  on  a  s(<ahoard 
exposed  for  four  centuries  to  the  visits  of  tlie  slavers,  they  have  always  combined 
to  resist  every  attempt  at  capture,  and  when  they  were  seized  they  eitlier  starved 
or  drowned  tlu>mselves  to  escape  bonda<j;e.  Nor  did  they  ever  themselves  trade  in 
human  tlesli  with  the  wiiites,  altho>ijj:h  domestic  slavery  was  a  national  institution. 
The  Fislu'rmcn,  however,  originally  a  distinct  tribe,  but  now  mainly  assimilated  to 
the  Kroos,  made  no  slaves,  but  saeriticed  captives  taken  in  war  under  a  fetish  tree. 

The  Kroos  constitute  small  commonwealths,  whoso  hereditary  chief  is,  so  to 
say,  merely  a  'minister  of  fureign  affairs,"  whose  duty  it  is  to  deal  for  the  connnon 
good  with  Euro])ean  captains  and  the  representatives  of  Liberia.  He  docs  all  the 
speaking  at  the  palavers,  gives  and  receives  the  i)resents,  but  takes  no  part  in  the 
government  of  the  tribe.  The  elders,  recognised  by  the  iron  ring  worn  on  tlieir 
leg,  discuss  all  the  commuiud  interests,  deliberating  on  the  measures  to  be  taken 
and  securing  their  execution.  Their  president,  who  is  at  the  same  time  head  of 
the  fetish-men,  has  charge  of  the  national  symbols.  His  house  is  a  sacred  asylum 
for  fugitives,  whom  he  protects  imtil  convinced  of  their  guilt.  He  is  regarded  as 
specially  entrusted  with  the  welfare  of  the  nation,  so  that  if  all  goes  well  he  receives 
the  p\d)lic  thanks,  but  otherwise  is  deposed  and  reduced  to  the  position  of  a  private 
citizen.  Property,  apart  from  a  few  personal  objects,  is  held  in  common  by  the 
whole  family,  and  cannot  be  alienated  without  the  consent  of  its  adult  mend)er8. 
The  land  also  is  theoretically  a  collective  property,  but  the  actual  tiller  of  the 
soil  is  its  (le  fdcfo  owner,  and  he  can  be  dispossessned  by  no  one,  although  he  has  no 
right  to  sell  it.     When  he  ceases  to  work  his  plot  it  reverts  to  the  community. 

Notwithstanding  their  devoted  attachment  to  their  homes  and  families,  the 
Kroos  are  of  all  Africans  the  most  given  to  temporary  emigration.  Leaving  the 
cultixation  of  the  soil  to  the  women  and  captives,  they  offer  themselves  in  their 
fourteenth  or  fifteenth  year  for  employment  either  in  the  factories  or  on  board 
ship,  usually,  however,  stipulating  for  a  sho'-t  engagement,  seldom  expending 
beyond  "  thirteen  moons."  IJut  for  them  European  trade  on  the  Guinea  coast 
would  be  almost  impossible.  Vessels  that  have  lost  all  or  most  of  their  white  crews 
would  be  at  the  mercy  of  wind  and  water  but  for  these  hardy  and  daring  mariners, 
who  thus  completely  dis])rove  the  cimimoidy  accepted  statement  that  the  natives 
of  tropical  lands  are  always  hopelessly  indolent.  Full  of  respect  for  their  employers 
and  loyal  to  their  engagements,  the  energetic  and  persevering  Kroomen  also 
expect  and  insist  on  the  faithful  execution  of  the  contract  by  the  ti'aders  or  ski])pers 
engaging  them.  They  also  do  some  trading  on  their  own  accoimt,  selling  to  the 
ships'  companies  cattle,  rice,  ground-nuts,  palm-oil,  and  preparing  sea-salt  for  the 
Mandingans  of  the  interior. 

The  Kroo  language,  a  member  of  the  Manda  family,  which  also  includes  the 
Fanti,  Ashanti,  Bassa,  and  (irebo,  is  gradually  giving  place  to  English,  at  least  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  factories.     Most  of  tho  chiefs  have  received  and  accepted 


'WIII-.yA       »«»^»»tjijpi|i,    ]         i!lLi«i|  I   IIIIJIIHIJ,  ■liJ.|i>ili^.     -111,1!  IJ 


L115E1UA. 


221 


juculiir  Knj,'lifsh  iiickiuimos,  such  as  Jack-iiftor-Suppor,  Flyinj?  Jib,  T\v()-poun(I-t(>ii, 
and  tlio  like.  Most  of  the  villajrcs  also  have  an  Knglisli  Itv-namo,  and  iioarly 
every  j,'i(>ui)  of  huts  lias  in  its  vicinity  a  (luarter  bearing  a  similar  name,  preceded 
by  the  words  "half,"  oi"  "  pieanniny."  The  Kroos  are  also  takino;  to  European 
clothes,  pea-jackets,  felt  or  straw-hats,  und)rellas,  bracelets,  and  other  ornaments, 
and  the  houses  themselves  are  often  fitted  up  with  Kuf^lish  furniture. 

It  may  be  questioned  whether  this  native  race  is  not  e.\ercisin<,'  more  civilising 
iuthieuces  on  the  indigenous  elements  than  the  "  American  "  colonists  with  their 


Fi^-  93.— Inhabitants  of  Liberia. 
Scnle  1  :  finno.nnn. 


0  to  (iliO 
Feet. 


Depths. 


f,6n  Feet  nnd 
npwarils. 


Approximate  heifflits  of  2.000 
Feet. 


12(1  Milea. 


pedantic  ways  and  borrowed  formulas.  The  white  population  numbered  in  1884 
no-  more  than  forty  persons,  all  males  except  the  wife  of  a  missionary.  The 
coloured  people  call  themselves  whites,  and  as  such  aspire  to  the  government  of  the 
repvd)lic.  Here  party  struggles  turn  on  the  ascendancy  of  the  "  coloured  "  or 
htdf-caste  and  full-blood  Negroes,  and  hitherto  the  former  have  maintained  them- 
selves in  office. 

Apart  from  a  few  upright  men  who  have  endeavoured  to  carry  out  the  work 
of  moral  regeneration  for  which  the  colony  was  founded,  most  of  the  Weegee,  or 
"  civilised  "  Liberiaus,  endeavour  to  assert  their  own  superiority  by  despising  the 


i 


i 


,;.?«•"' 


I 


222 


WEST  AFRICA. 


"  stinkiiip:  l)ush-ni<r<rers,"  as  thov  call  the  aborij^inos,  and  ki'('pinf»  thorn  in  n  stato 
of  sorvitiulo  and  dcj^radation.  Soarccly  any  alliancos  ari>  oontracft'd  Ixtwt'on  (he 
"  Anu'iicans "  and  tho  native  women,  so  that  the  civilised  ])<)])ulati»)n  is  mainly 
recruited  l>v  fresli  arrivals,  such  as  tho  numerous  emancipated  Xcffroes  from  South 
Carolina  in  I'^TT.  Left  to  itself,  it  would  diminish  from  year  to  year,  and  finally 
l)ecome  absorbed  by  the  surroundiufj  aborigines. 

Slavery  has   been  abolislicd   only   in  name,  for  although   the  law  pronounces 
severe  penalties  against   purchasers  of  slaves,  it  does  not  ])rohibit   the  trafHc  in 


Fig:.  1)4.— RoiiEiiTsronT  and  Fishf.um.vn's  L.ikk. 

Scale  1  :  3hC,00(). 


West    cf    Greenwich        ll°so' 


ll°>0- 


Depths 


Oto  16 
Feet. 


10  to  32 
Feet. 


32  to  64 
Feet 


fli  I'eot  nnd 
upwatils. 


G  Miles. 


I 


*" 


"  boys,"  whom  the  planters  get  from  insolvent  chiefs  in  the  interior  and  keep  in 
bondage.  The  missionaries,  who  are  here  relatively  numerous,  have  founded 
several  inland  stations,  where  they  buy  orphans  and  bring  them  up  in  tho  American 
way,  giving  them  the  name  of  some  United  States  patron,  who  pays  for  the  educa- 
tion of  his  ado2)ted  child.  Several  of  the  tribes  about  the  plantations  have  also 
been  converted  to  various  Protestant  sects,  and  like  their  kinsfolk  in  the  New 
World,  hold  those  camp-meetings  at  which  prayers,  psalm -singing,  and  preach- 
ing or  shouting  are  intermingled  with  groans,  sobs,  frenzied  dancing,  fits,  and 
convulsions. 


ISb'* 


rSW*"- 


T-imCRIA. 


228 


The  foreign  tnuU'  of  Liboriu,  which  in  iSS.j  was  iihnoHt  inoiiopoh'Nud  by  three 
coiniiierciul  houses,  hours  but  a  slijj;ht  proportion  to  the  extent  of  the  stuto. 
Formerly  the  thief  r"hitions  Aore  witli  America,  but  iit  present  nearly  all  the 
traffic  lies  with  Kngland  iind  Ilaml)ur<jf.  The  people  themselves  take  a  direct 
part  in  the  coastinj,'  trade,  which  cniploys  a  number  of  small  cral't  of  fifteen  to 
eighty  Ions  burden,  built  at  Monrovia.  Ivory,  formerly  a  staple  of  export,  has 
now  be(  n  mostly  replaced  by  dyewoods,  caoutchouc,  ])alm-oil,  tolVce,  ground-nuts, 
exchanged  for  textiles,  implements,  paper,  and  cspi-iially  spirits  and  tobacco.  The 
biirtcr  system  of  trade  still  prevails  almost  everywhere  except  in  Monrovia  and  the 
other  sea|)ort8,  which  have  adopted  a  metal  currencv. 

TornnUAPiiY. 

Despite  its  convenient  position,  Jiohcrfspnrf,  the  northernmost  town  iu  the 
republic,  is  still  little  more  than  a  rural  eonnnune  dotted  over  with  houses  and 
huts.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  foot  of  Cape  Mount,  wheiu;e  an  extensive 
prospect  is  comnuinded  of  the  blue  waters  of  Kisherman's  Lake  and  of  the  sea, 
with  its  white  fringe  of  breakers  eiu'ircling  the  verdant  headland.  One  of  the 
crests  of  this  peninsula,  rising  above  the  fever  zone,  has  been  chosen  as  the  chief 
residence  of  the  Liberian  missionaries.  Kobertsport  is  the  natural  depot  of  all 
the  streams  converging  in  the  connnon  basin  of  Fisherman's  Lake,  but  its  pros- 
perity is  impeded  by  the  incessant  local  feuds  of  the  Vei,  Kosso,  and  Oallina  chiefs, 
and  .so  recently  as  IHH'2  it  only  escaped  destruction  by  the  ojjportune  arrival  of  troops 
from  ^lonrovia.  In  times  of  peace  it  receives  its  supplies  from  the  hamlets  of 
MadiiKi  on  Johnny  Creek,  Bi'kkh,  Coro  on  the  Japacu,  Cobolia,  residence  of  the  Vei 
king,  "Sandtish,"aud  linpoio,  capital  of  king  "lioutswain,"  in  the  Condo  country. 
IJaporo  is  a  busy  trading  place,  which  at  the  time  of  Anderson's  visit  in  IHtiM 
had  a  population  of  about  ten  thousand,  including  representatives  of  all  the  sur- 
rounding tribes,  liut  the  dominant  element  were  the  great  sla\e-owning  ^loham- 
medan  ^fandingans,  who  treat  their  slaves  much  more  rigorously  than  do  the 
ueiffhbourinir  pastan  tribes.  All  the  towns  iu  this  district  have  sacred  tishiMinds, 
inhabited  by  "  aimed  fish,"  formidable  animals  which  struggle  furiously  for  the 
offal  thrown  to  them  by  the  natives.  They  are  covered  witli  scars,  and  Anderson 
had  reason  to  think  that  they  were  occasionally  fed  with  human  victims. 

Monrovia,  capital  of  the  republic,  was  so  named  in  honour  of  the  United  States 
President  Ikfonroe.  It.s  position  is  somewhat  analogous  to  that  of  Robertsport, 
standing  at  the  foot  of  a  marine  headland  at  the  outlet  of  an  estuary  which  re- 
ceives the  discharge  of  several  inland  streams.  But  in  the  absence  of  fresh  spring 
water,  the  inhabitants  have  to  depend  on  cisterns,  or  to  draw  their  supplies  from 
the  interior.  The  town  is  laid  out  in  the  regular  American  style,  the  chief 
thoroughfares  running  east  and  west  at  right  angles  with  the  by-streets.  But 
the  stone  or  wooden  houses  are  not  continuous,  being  built  at  considerable  intervals, 
with  intervening  courts  and  gardens  planted  with  cocoa-nut  palms  a-nd  mangoes. 
The  finer  quarters  are  centred  on  the  higher  and  more  salubrious  grounds  near  the 
fortifications  which  command  the  roadstead. 


•v.-Hj^as* 


■TSi-W^" 


'-'msr^mf. 


221 


WEMT  AFUKA. 


A  Httamcr  porotmtiiig  from  Afourovitt  through  Stockton  Creek  norlhwnrds  totlie 
St.  I'aul  liiver  iit  ('hIiIucII,  ktciKs  up  the  ('oniniuniciitioiis  wiih  all  tlic  su;,'ar  and 
other  plantations  lining  the  banks  of  this  artery.  Here  all  tlie  groups  of  houses 
bear  some  Ameriean  historic  or  geogra])hic  name,  sueh  us  Vinjiiiiu,  Clitij-Anliluiiil, 


Fiff.    i)'i.  — MOJIUOVIA    AND   TIIK    LoWKK    Ht.    I'.Wl,    HiVKU. 

Hcillc  1  :  4H(),(KX>. 


*,.     y  ■         * ' 


West    cf  G'-fe'-'.i 


0  to  32 
Feet. 


.')'.'  to  64 
Feet. 


(:4  F.  ct  i!ii(l 
upuiu'ds. 


■  6  Miles. 


Kiutuchii,  Ni'ir  York.  Jfi7M>iir(/,  the  Mithlciilmrd  of  the  Gorman  missionari(>s,  has 
also  some  plantavions  and  small  factories  on  the  rapids  of  the  St.  Paul.  But  the 
Mandingan  traders,  who  avoid  all  contact  with  the  despised  "Americans,"  and 
prefer  to  deal  directly  wit.i  th<>  natives,  have  chosen  as  their  depot  the  town  of 
Vamwali,  situated  in  the  marshy  district  a  few  miles  west  of  the  river.    Here  they 


,:SiS^  -         '~M&?^  \'$^M.'.$^M 


?" '"  "ait  jj^s-tf -■' 


I-IHKUIA. 


225 


have  11  mcIhkiI  iiiiil  a  inosejur,  uml  fmrn  tliis  placi'  runs  a  \vcll-kt|»t  liij^liway  acmsH  tho 
fniTHtH  nortliwiinis  ti)  Itaporo.  At  liiijili,  ahoiit  tlO  niilcs  hoiii  the  cdaKl,  tlii-*  road 
rnrnwH  anotluMTiiiinin^  MMith-wcHt  throti);!!  Siihhim,  vnynnXoi  \\w  (jola  tcnitorv,  to 
Kishcniiun's  fiukr.  Tlie^t*  trade  routes  Imvo  u  uomuil  ltr»'a<ltli  of  I  rum  (i  to  7  ft'rt. 
Tin-  upiKT  valleys  of  the  St.  Taul,  hitherto  visited  by  only  one  explonr,  s«'eiu 
destined  to  beeome  one  of  the  most  flourishing  regions  in  Africa.     Here  the  popu- 

Fig.  UU.— UuA.ND  Bama  axd  Moirrii  of  the  St.  John. 

Scale  I  :  73,il(J0. 


Depths. 


otuie 

Feet. 

Iflto32 
Feet. 

32  to  64 
Feft. 

61  Kct't  mill 
upwards. 

lation  is  very  dense,  towns  and  cultivated  districts  following  continuously  along 
the  slopes  of  the  plateaux.  The  towns  visited  by  IJenjainin  Anderson  in  18(50, 
Zolu,  FeHHubuc,  Dokkasn/i,  ZUjtih  Porah  Znt',  in  the  Bussi  territory,  and  Zit-Zu  on 
the  St.  Paul,  are  all  places  of  several  thousand  inhabitants,  and  their  fairs  are 
attended  by  multitudes  from  the  rural  districts. 

The  eastern  slope  of  the  Vukkah  Hills  belongs  to  the  Mandingans,  whose  chief 
town  is  Mtimnlit,  or  Mmadu,  which,  although  much  reduced  from  its  former  splen- 


ffiM-?;>- 


I 


si*' 


iti  t 


hi 


n  I 


iiiiiil 


Ml' 


220  WE^T  AFRICA. 

dour,  hud  still  a  population  of  nearly  eiglit  thousand  in  1800,  nnd  its  solidly  built 


ramparts  were  defended  by  a  numerous  garrison.     Nevertheless,  since  then  it  has 


mmmimmmAHi ,..i..-!..iUJjJiau,!-!iiiWiU^',.^jtfj.,i...;i:'i,.,...:U„ .... 


r^ 


LinERIA. 


227 


4 


IVA 


»i 


been  several  times  occupied  by  the  Sultnn  of  Medina,  a  fortified  town  lying  two  or 
three  diiyn'  journey  fartlu>r  east.  Recent  treaties  with  Liln'ria  appear  to  have 
restored  peace,  and  given  the  politieid  suz(>rninty  to  the  Alonrovian  (iovernnunt. 
The  women  of  Masadu  and  the  neighhouriug  liilli'luh  K"iliit  wear  jewellery  made 
with  tlie  gold  importi'd  from  the  Upper  Niger  washiiign.  According  to  Anderson, 
tlie  most  productive  placer  is  ut  linhi,  a  four  days'  march  to  tlu'  east  of  ^lasadu. 

The  small  i)ort  of  Mtifxhull  at  the  moutli  of  tlie  .lunk,  is  hut  little  fntpienti'd, 
whereas  Orinnl  Huhhu,  officially  called  Ihivlinitaii,  is  the  connucnual  centre  of  the 
republic.  Here  aro  the  chief  factories,  and  the  place  is  regularly  visited  by  the 
large  steamers  plying  along  the  west  coast.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  8t.  Jolm 
River  stands  IuIIiki,  over  against  Grand  llassa.  farther  south  the  port  of  Gnrii- 
villc,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sinu,  lies  near  the  Ivroo  territory  east  of  the  Grrat  and 
Little  liiitu  rocks,  coasts,  and  villages.  Still  farther  south  the  new  port  of  Nifn  has 
been  lately  opened  to  foreign  trade. 

Cape  Palmas,  at  the  angle  of  the  continent,  marks  the  site  of  the  "  American  " 
town  of  Ifiirpcr,  the  Jiamncpo  of  the  natives.  Ca])ital  of  the  old  colony  of  Mary- 
land, and  now  annexed  to  Liberia,  Harper  occupies  one  of  the  most  salubrious 
IK)sitions  on  the  coast,  standing  on  a  hilly  island  connected  by  a  stri])  of  sand  witlj 
the  mainland.  The  roadstead  is  .sheltered  by  the  islet  of  Russwurm,  which  is 
separated  from  the  headland  by  a  navigable  channel.  The  white  houses  of  Ilai  jM>r 
are  visible  from  the  sea  through  the  clusters  of  cocoa-nuts  which  have  gi\en 
their  name  to  Cape  I'almas.  Rut  landwards  the  hoiizon  is  everywhere  boundid 
by  the  unbroken  skyliiu;  of  the  woodbinds. 

Tlie  chief  station  of  the  Protestatit  in'ssicms  lies  to  the  north-east,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Cavally  River,  and  above  this  point  follow  several  other  settlements  as  far 
as  Bohlen,  ut  the  head  of  the  fluvial  navigation.  Rohleit  lies  in  a  region  of 
auriferous  sands,  which  have  not  yet  been  explored,  because  the  tutelar  deity 
demands  human  victims,  and  in  this  land  of  petty  republican  confederacies  men 
arc  too  valuable  to  be  thus  sacrificed.     (AVinwood  Readc.) 

Not  far  from  the  mouth  of  the  Cavally  rises  the  "Stone  of  the  Great  Devil," 
a  rock  pierced  at  the  base,  wliich  is  fretpiented  by  awe-stricken  pilgrims  from 
every  part  of  the  Kroo  territory.  Their  presents  of  corals,  glass  beads,  tobacco, 
rum,  animals,  when  placed  at  the  entrance  <jf  the  grotto  suddenly  disappear  in  a 
mysterious  way.  The  sound  made  by  the  hidden  demon  swallowing  the  offerings 
of  his  worshippers  is  distinctly  heard,  say  the  believers.  Near  the  stone  is  also 
shown  the  twisted  stem  of  a  tree,  which  is  stated  to  be  an  impious  scoffer,  \\ho 
laughed  at  the  miracle  as  the  clumsy  trick  of  some  knavish  priest  concealed  in 
the  recesses  of  the  cave. 


'•^ 


Atoiinistration. 

The  Liberian  constitution  is  slavishly  modelled  on  that  of  the  United  States, 
without  the  slightest  original  feature  adapted  to  the  difference  of  race  and  climate. 
The  Government  consists  of  a  I*resident  and  a  Vice-President,  each  selected  for  a 
period  of  two  years  from  the  class  of  proprietors  worth  at  least  £r20.     The 


!  I 


228 


WEST  AriilCA. 


i\n' 


I'l 


elcctorntc  rdinprisos  all  citizons  twenty-one  years  of  ago.  In  case  of  death  the 
President  is  replaced  by  the  Vice-President,  who  is  alno  President  cx-officiu  of  the 
Senate.  The  executive  is  entrusted  to  five  cabinet  ministers,  irresponsible  to  tlie 
Congress,  which  comprises  a  Senate  of  eight  members  elected  for  two  years,  and  a 
Chamber  of  Deputies  elected  for  four  years.  These  at  present  number  thirteen, 
but  are  liable  to  be  increased  witli  the  increase  of  population.  The  citizens  are 
not  eligible  before  their  thirtieth  year,  and  whites  are  e.xcluded  from  the  franchise. 
Till  recently  they  could  not  even  purchase  land  without  first  becoming  natural- 
ised ;  but  since  the  late  modification  of  the  laws  they  are  able  to  acquire  real 
property,  although  still  only  indirectly  through  Government  agency. 

As  in  the  I'nitcd  States,  justice  is  administered  througJi  district  courts  and  a 
high  court  at  Monrovia.     There  is  no  state  religion,'  although  the  American 


tH-l  ,,n    I 


Fig.  9S.— Cace  Palmas. 
Boale  1  :  440,000. 


West    ot    breenwich 


Z"*!,- 


Z'sj 


Deptlis. 


otnsa 

I'eet. 


32  to  64 
I'cet. 


(14  to  160 
Feet. 


G  Miles. 


160  Feet  and 
upwiirdB. 


":i;^ 


iSttll 


Episcopal  Church  predominates,  and  public  opinion  exacts  a  formal  observance  of 
the  Sabbath,  even  on  the  part  of  the  Mohammedans.  Every  village  of  three  hun- 
dred inhabitants  supports  a  primary  school,  besides  which  two  colleges  have  been 
founded  for  the  higher  instruction  of  both  sexes. 

All  citizens  between  their  sixteenth  and  fiftieth  years  are  bound  to  military 
service,  although  sehhmi  enrolled  except  during  the  wars  with  the  surrounding 
tribes.  The  national  militia  comprises  four  territorial  regiments,  under  the 
supreme  command  of  a  brigadier-general.  The  navy  is  limited  to  a  few  sloops 
and  rowing-boats.  The  revenue  falls  short  of  £40,000  ;  but  the  debt,  imposed  on 
the  state  by  some  disliouest  speculators,  is  relatively  heavy,  amounting  in  1880  to 
i;:JlG,000. 

Liberia  is  at  present  divided  into  four  counties  :  Mesurado,  Grand  Bassa,  Sinu, 


^-v^iTllSIlSl^s^^i^^^^i^^^l^^ 


THE  IVORY  COAST. 


229 


and  I^rarylanrl.  Until  18(30  the  lust  mentioned  was  a  free  Negro  eolony,  forming  a 
separate  republic  under  the  patronage  of  a  Baltimore  society.  But  siiu  its  union 
with  Liberia  it  is  administered  by  a  "  superintendent,"  who  is  charged  with  the 
duty  of  gratliially  assimilating  the  local  institutions  to  those  of  the  other  counties. 
These  arc  again  subdivided  into  townships,  defined,  a.s  in  the  United  States,  by 
geometrical  lines,  and  each  averaging  3  square  miles  in  extent. 

Ivory  Coast — Grand  Bassam — Assini. 

East  of  Cape  Palmas  the  coast-line  develops  a  curve  of  surprising  regularity 
stretching  for  370  miles  eastward  to  Cape  Three  Points.  The  greater  part  of 
this  gently  curved  seaboard  takes  the  name  of   the  Ivory  Coast,  and  also  that  of 


Fig.  99 —Ditch  of  Little  Bass.^m. 
Scjle  1  :  425,000. 


Oto  16 
Feet. 


16  to  3'i 
Feet. 


Depths. 


S2to80 
I'eet. 


80  to  320 
Feet. 


320  Feet  and 
iipw.ii  Ja 


12  MilcD. 


the  I^eoward,  in  contradistinction  to  the  Windward  Coast,  exposed  to  the  fury  of 
the  Atlantic  storms.  It  is  divided  by  no  prominent  natural  landmarks  into 
distinct  regions,  nor  have  the  political  frontiers  been  accurately  drawn  till  quite 
recently,  to  indicate  the  extent  of  territory  appropriated  by  France.  This  terri- 
tory, which  extends  for  a  still  undetermined  distance  inland,  presents  a  coast-line 
of  about  130  miles. 

The  rest  of  the  seaboard,  stretching  for  120  miles  between  the  San-Pedro  and 


^11 


n-^-^M 


280 


WEST  AFKICA. 


Lahu  rivers,  is  one  of  the  few  sections  of  the  continental  periphery  which  has  not 
yet  heen  claimed  by  any  European  power.  The  western  section  oi  the  Ivory 
Coast  is  also  one  of  the  least  explored  in  the  whole  of  Africa.  Apart  from  the 
seaboard  and  the  summits  of  the  hills  visible  from  the  shore,  nothing  of  this 
region  is  known  except  the  names  of  some  tribes  and  towns.  The  dark  curtain  of 
forest  trees  has  not  yet  been  raised.  Yet  few  other  countries  reserve  more  inte- 
resting revelations  for  travellers.  Due  north  were  formerly  supposed  to  lie  the 
culminating  points  of  the  so-called  Kong  ^lountains,  figui'ed  on  our  maps  from 
vague  reports,  but  which  would  appear  to  form  a  comparatively  low  waterparting 
between  the  coast  streams  and  the  Niger  basin. 

The  western  and  still  independent  section  of  the  Ivory  Coast  is  the  most 
elevated,  and  here  the  Sussandra  (Saint  Andrew)  hills  attain  an  extreme  altitude 
of  OcSO  feet.  Farther  on,  Mount  Langdon  and  the  Sisters  rise  to  elevations  of  ^JGO 
and  390  feet  respectively.  Most  of  the  cliffs  appear  to  be  of  sandstone  formation, 
and  tlie  streams  here  reaching  the  coast  are  said  by  tlie  natives  to  traverse  a  large 
inland  lagoon  called  Gle.  The  Lahu  Itiver,  which  now  marks  the  western  limit  of 
the  French  possessions,  seems  to  bo  of  considerable  length,  and  evidently  rises  in 
the  uplands  of  the  interior.  It  sends  down  a  large  volume,  and  enters  the  sea 
through  three  arms  with  intervening:  wooded  islands.  But  the  bars  are  so  dan- 
gerous  that  they  cannot  be  crossed  even  by  canoes.  Here  the  submarine  bank 
stretches  for  a  considerable  distance  seawards  everywliere  except  at  Little  Hassam 
Bay,  that  is,  the  point  where  the  arc  developed  by  the  Ivory  Coast  reaches  its 
extreme  northern  convexity.  An  extremely  deep  trough  or  ditch,  Ij  mile  wide, 
opens  nonnally  with  the  shore-line  between  the  two  submerged  banks,  which  slope 
gently  seawards.  At  4J  miles  off  the  coast  the  Little  Ba>sam  "  ditch  "  has  a 
depth  of  1,000  feet ;  at  a  third  of  a  mile  GOO,  and  close  in  shore  120  feet.  This 
submarine  valley  resembles  the  so-called  "  Gouf  "  near  the  south-east  angle  of  the 
Bay  of  Hiscay. 

Before  reacihing  the  sea  the  Lahu  spreads  out  westwards  in  an  island-studded 
lagoon  separated  from  the  Atlantic  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land.  But  east  of  the 
river  this  lagoon  formation  acquires  far  greater  proportions.  For  a  space  of  over 
130  miles  between  the  Lab  .  and  the  Tanwe  there  is,  so  to  say,  a  double  shore-line, 
the  outer  or  seaward  beach  running  in  an  almost  straight  line  for  an  interminable 
distance  west  and  east  between  the  foam  of  the  breakers  and  the  verdant  forests. 
The  inner  or  continental  line  is  broken  by  creeks  and  secondary  inlets,  presenting 
a  labyrinth  of  approaches  to  the  rivers  of  the  interior.  The  Ebrie  lagoon,  forming 
the  \\'estern  section  of  this  system  of  inland  \iaters,  comprises  a  multitude  of 
channels,  passages,  isles,  islets,  and  banks,  stretching  for  70  miles  parallel  with 
the  coa.it,  and  navigable  at  all  seasons  for  boats  drawing  2|  feet.  The  Akba  or 
Comoe,  lai'gest  of  its  affluents,  and  said  to  be  '^'40  miles  long,  enters  the  lagoon  at 
its  east  end,  where  it  pierces  the  outer  coast-line  to  reach  the  sea.  During  the 
floods  it  has  a  velocity  of  from  8  to  9  miles  an  hour,  and  its  alluvia  causes  the 
bar  to  silt  up  to  such  an  extent  that  vessels  drawing  10  feet  are  unable  to 
enter  the  lagoon.     But  at  other  times  the  bar  is  easily  crossed,  and  the  Great 


'iA^jJ4v-;^5  f 


■.•n,"t-! 


',0m^^^m^:mm 


fi.TVW-^'^Jg 


TIIE  IVORY  COAST. 


231 


Bassam  moutb,  as  it  is  called,  gives  the  best  access  to  the  interior  on  the  whole 
coast  from  Cape  I'almas  to  the  Bight  of  Benin.  But  about  24  miles  from  its 
mouth  the  Akba  is  interrupted  by  rapids  near  the  village  of  Little  Alepe. 

The  approach  to  the  Assini  (Issini)  lagoon,  some  22  miles  farther  east,  resem- 
bles that  of  Lake  Ebrie,  but  is  shallower,  more  tortuous,  and  inaccessible  to  craft 
drawing  more  ihiin  5  feet.  But  in  the  interior  the  lagoons  ramify  into  numerous 
deep  creeks  and  inlets,  the  two  chief  influents  being  the  Bia  or  Kiujabo  in  the 
north-west,  and  the  Tanwe,  forming  in  the  east  the  frontier  of  the  French  posses- 


Fig.  100.— Assixi. 

Scale  1  :  ?20,000. 


West    of    Greenwich 


0°*0' 


I'epths. 


Oto12 
Feet. 


82  to  80 
Ftet. 


80  to  160 
Feet. 


160  Feet  and 
upwards. 


.  12  Miles. 


sions.  The  latter  has  been  ascended  to  a  distance  of  60  miles  from  its  delta  in  the 
Assini  lagoon,  but  on  the  Ivinjabo  all  navigation  is  soon  arrested  by  the  Aboiso 
Falls,  l^oth  rivers,  as  well  as  their  tributaries,  are  washed  for  gold,  the  tenacious 
clayey  soil  of  their  beds  yielding  an  average  of  about  two  shillings  the  cubic 
metre.  On  the  slopes  north  of  the  lagoon,  Chaper  has  discovered  bculders  and 
clays  of  glacial  origin.  Thus  for  a  space  of  900  miles,  from  the  south  Senegambian 
rivers  to  the  Gold  Coast,  traces  are  presented  of  former  glacial  action. 

Clim.\te,  Flora,  and  Fauna. 
The  climate  of  the  Ivory  differs  little  from  that  of  the  Grain  Coast.     Here  also 


m 


^»vl«^a  '{s^^  'Ki 


*l 


232 


WEST  AFEICA. 


the  year  is  divided  into  two  rainy  seasons,  with  two  intervening  periods  of  dry 
weather.  For  strangers  the  most  dangerous  jjeriod  begins  in  (October  with  the 
n<^rth-cast  winds,  corresponding  to  the  liarmattan  of  the  Liberian  coast.  The 
ex^:  ."ts,  such  as  oil,  dyewoods,  gum-,  ground-nuts,  wax,  ivory,  also  show  that  the 
flora  and  fauna  of  the  unexplored  interior  are  much  the  same  as  in  Liberia.     The 

Tig.  101.— "Women  of  Giund  Bassam. 


»  \,- .  .-i,*r°: 


only  plant  extensively  cultivated  is  cofPee,  which  is  largely  grown  by  ii  French 
house  along  the  Avest  bank  of  the  Albi.  Here  are  found  three  spec  'es  of  monkeys, 
including  the  chimpanzee ;  the  elephant  also  is  occasionally  seen  on  the  coast. 
But  the  hippopotamus,  which  formerly  frequented  the  creeks  and  lagoons,  has 
almost  entirely  disappeared,  at  least  from  the  Assini  district.     Chaper  has  met  the 


.  -  ■■j:*:.^.^'^^'"!^ 


THE   KING  OF  ASSINk. 


>«'',: 


Pm  ;!i;  '  mil  j 


•*  > 


•^  i  i'if^ 


:  r-rmm^^^h^^mfm'' 


^?T*1?'- 


INIIAIilTANTS  OF  THE  IVORY  COAST. 


2iia 


sloughs  of  pythons  over  thirty  feet  long  and  twenty  inehcs  round  in  the  middle. 
13ut  notwithstanding  their  size,  these  animals  are  little  dreaded  by  the  natives. 

Inhabitants. 

The  populations  in  the  western  districts  of  the  Ivory  Coast  are  still  classed  as 
Kroomen.  The  Glebos  (Gleboe),  as  they  are  called,  belong  probably  to  the  same 
stock  as  their  western  neighbours,  the  Grebos,  and  the  two  names  are  perhaps  fun- 
damentally one.  Cannibalism  is  said  to  have  only  recently  disappeared,  and  mention 
is  made  of  a  tribe  in  this  district  with  such  a  limited  vocabulary  that  their  speecli 
requires  to  be  supplemented  by  continuous  gestures  and  play  of  features.  On  the 
bunks  of  the  Gle  lagoon  report  speaks  of  a  colony  of  fetish  women,  vowed  to  celi- 
bacy, and  governed  by  a  queen,  who  by  means  of  certain  herbs  develops  a  kind  of 
artificial  elephantiasis.  All  male  children  born  in  these  Amazonian  villages  are 
at  once  put  to  death,  but  girls  are  carefully  trained  for  their  future  profession  of 
fetish  women. 

East  of  the  Glebos  follow  numerous  tribes,  scarcely  better  known  than  the  fore- 
going, and  speaking  dialects  of  which  very  incomplete  vocabularies  hiive  hither- 
to been  procured.  The  leading  people  appear  to  be  the  Avekvoms  or  Avikoms, 
who  occupy  u  part  of  the  Adu  country  to  the  west  of  the  Tiahu  river.  For  over  two 
centuries  these  Negroes  have  been  commonly  known  by  the  name  of  Kwa-Kwa 
(Quoa-(^uoa),  from  their  salutation,  which  Bosman  compares  to  the  quacking  of 
ducks.  The  trading  station  of  Great  Lahu  on  the  outer  coastline  west  of  the  Liilui 
mouth  is  inhabited  by  Avekvoms. 

The  tribes  farther  east  about  the  Ebrie  Lagoon  arc  generally  known  by  their 
English  nickname,  Jack-Jack.  Thoy  are  active  traders,  playing  the  part  of  agents 
or  middlemen  for  the  inland  populations,  and  dealing  directly  with  the  European 
shippers  of  palm-oil,  nuts,  and  other  local  produce.  In  1S84  they  thus  disposed  of 
five  thousand  tons  of  oil,  chiefly  consigned  to  Liverpool  and  Bristol  hoilses.  The 
villages  are  very  numerous  about  the  Ebrie  Lagoon,  which  has  an  estimated  popu- 
lation of  eighty  thousand,  largely  engaged  in  fishing.  Grand  Bassam  alone  owns 
over  five  hundred  canoes.  The  whole  population  of  the  Ivory  Coast  inland  to  the 
Niger  water-parting  cannot  be  less  than  five  hundred  thousand. 

The  tribes  dwelling:  to  the  north  of  the  French  territories  of  Grand  Bassam 
and  Assini  appear  to  belong  to  two  distinct  stocks — the  Agni,  the  origimil  owners 
of  the  land,  and  the  Oshin  conquerors,  who  according  to  their  tradition,  arrived 
towards  the  end  of  the  aighteenth  century.  The  Agni  are  shorter,  more  thickset 
and  robust,  the  Oshins  slimmer,  wi  h  longer  head,  and  more  projecting  lower  jaw. 
In  some  villages  the  women  go  naked,  while  the  men  wear  a  sumptuous  robe  or 
blanket  of  many-coloured  strips. 

But  whatever  their  origin,  all  the  tribes  on  this  coast  arc  alike  noted  for  their 
mild  disposition  and  trustworthy  character.  All  business  transactions  are  cariied 
on  exclusively  by  verbal  contract,  and  although  at  times  lusting  for  months  or 
years,  they  are  always  scrupulously  fulfilled.    At  present  their  territory  nuiy  safely 

79— AF 


,fpMj., 


'J*';*"'!;}.?- 


.t,'J,     ^Wfi 


r 


iJ31 


WKST   AFlilUA. 


bo  trnvorsed  in  nil  diroctions;  only  expeditions  ure  still  very  expensive,  as  the  inha- 
bitants of  every  village  expect  a  present  from  every  white  traveller.  For  several 
genenitions  there  have  been  no  wars  in  the  district;  still  every  native  has  his  gun, 
with  whicli  he  I)iirus  much  powder,  noise  and  uproar  being  indispensable  elements 
of  all  festive  gatherings.     Iblam  has  n<jt  yi't  reached  this  region,  where  the  reli- 


Fig.  102.— AoNi  Type. 


ifti : 


gious  observances  are  still  of  a  purely  Animistic  character.  But  they  do  not  appear 
to  be  celebrated  with  much  zeal.  The  fetishes  set  up  at  the  entrance  of  every 
village  and  at  the  cross  roads  are  much  neglected,  and  the  tabooed  or  sacred  groves 
are  now  mostly  reduced  to  small  enclosures,  surrounded  with  skulls  of  animals  and 
potsherds.  In  some  places  even  the  enclosures  have  disappeared,  and  the  fetish 
temple  is  rcd\ioed   to  u  mere  dioritc    boulder  brought    perhaps  in    remote  times 


•Miltj 


mmmwMm^^msvm^^m^^^ 


Silic.''-^';"'''^''-^'^'' 


THE  (lOLD  COAST. 


2.S6 


from  tlio  interior  and  new  fonninjj;  u  stunibling-bloek  in  the  puth  of  the  unwary 
wayfarer. 

KixJAiH) — Administration  ok  hie  Ivory  Coast. 

A  powerful  French  vassal  state  has  been  founded  on  the  shores  of  Luke  Assini 
by  a  chief  of  Ashanti  origin,  who  resides  at  Kinjabo,  a  ])Iace  of  about  thirty  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  This  bhwdthirsty  ])()tentate's  chief 
oc(uipation  seems  to  be  the  administration  of  justice,  and  under  the  slied  where  he 
presides  at  tlie  "  sessions,"  the  heads  of  his  victims  are  piled  \i\)  in  jjyiamids.  So 
recently  as  the  middle  of  the  present  century  the  foundation  of  every  village  was 
])recedod  by  a  human  sacrifice.  The  victim,  made  drunk  with  palm-wine,  was 
beheaded  and  disend)owelled,  the  fetish-man  predicting  the  destinies  of  the  future 
settlement  by  inspecting  the  entrails.  The  king  keeps  a  band  of  captives,  and  it 
was  recently  feared  that  the  old  custom  of  the  "  blood  bath  "  for  the  royal  corpse 
might  be  revived  by  the  massacre  of  these  wretches. 

The  few  French  factories  belong  nearly  all  to  a  house  in  llochelle,  and  the  only 
places  where  any  French  officials  reside  are  (jfrtiiid  JiuHnain  and  ylssini,  both  situated 
near  the  bars  of  like  name,  and  Bfthu  on  a  creek  on  the  north  side  of  the  Kbrie 
Lagoon.  ])abu  is  a  fortified  outpost,  which  holds  in  awe  the  Burburi,  a  fierce  nd 
restless  tribe  occupying  some  large  villages  near  the  Jack- Jack  territory. 

The  French  settlements  on  the  Ivory  Coast  were  formerly  administered  from 
the  Gaboon.  But  by  a  recent  decree  they  were,  jointly  with  the  factories  on  the 
Slave  Coast,  attached  to  the  Senegal  Government. 

The  Gold  Coast  and  Volta  Basin. 

Nowhere  else  in  Upper  Guinea  have  the  Iluropc^ans  secured  such  a  firm  footing 
as  in  this  region.  The  English,  masters  of  the  territory  officially  known  as  Cape 
Coast,  from  the  name  of  its  former  capital,  occupy  a  section  of  the  seaboard  3G0 
miles  long,  between  the  French  possessions  of  Assini  and  the  German  factories 
of  Togo.  Inhind  their  domain  extends  to  a  point  120  miles  from  the  coast,  and 
beyond  these  limits  their  political  ascendancy  is  recognised  far  and  wide  by  the 
conterminous  populations.  According  to  the  approximate  statistics,  Cape  Coast  has 
a  total  area  of  17,000  square  miles,  with  a  population  of  over  500,000  in  the  year 
18M6.  The  northern  kingdom  of  the  Ashantis,  Gyaman,  and  the  contiguous 
provinces  have  upwards  of  one  million  inhabitants,  and  the  whole  population  of 
the  Gold  Coast,  taken  in  its  widest  sense,  is  estimated  at  three  nullions. 

The  very  name  of  this  region  accounts  for  the  eagerness  of  the  whites  to 
establish  factories  on  this  coast  and  to  explore  the  interior.  Traders  from  all  the 
European  states  were  tempted  to  establish  factories  for  the  purpose  of  exchanging 
their  wares  for  gold  dust,  and  most  of  the  Powers  erected  fortified  stations  to 
protect  the  trading  posts  of  their  subjects.  The  French,  Prussians,  Dutch, 
Danes,  and  Portuguese  possessed  such  stations,  but  the  English  have  become  the 
exclusive  heirff  of  the  trade  and  political  supremacy  in  this  rich  territory. 


.^::§0m» 


,JiSI 


11 'i! 


M: 


w'i«l- 


i 


2a(i 


WESr  AFRICA. 


Fig.  10;i.— UoLTEs  OF  CiiiKF  Exploueub  Nobtu  and  East  op 
Capb  OoAar. 

Hoale  1  ;  S,!l."i),0O0. 


S.l>ii 


VP*mi 


\  Siadt. 


^ 


Ataofcou^- --■~^-- -••"•■ 


Miwnia 


..'Jir«i>y« 


Tlie  iUitual  priority  of  posHossion  is  ono  of  tho  most  warmlv  fUscussed  questions 
in  liiMtoriciil  <^c'o<i;riii)hy.  In  !<>()(>  the  traveller  Villant  d  IJellcfond,  who  hud 
reached  the  Grain  Coast,  for  the  tirnt  time  alluded  to  the  J)Kppe  navigaforH  who 
were  sujjposed  to  have  made  Hettlemeiits  on  the  GJA  Coast  in  the  second  half  of 
tlio  fourteenth  century.  Hut  tho  uudoul)te<l  discovery  of  this  rep;ion  dates  only 
from  1470  or   1471,  when  it  -was  first  exphirod  hy  the  Portujijuese  navigators, 

Santarem  and  Kscovar.  Ahout 
twelve  years  Inter  King 
John  II.  I'lid  the  fort  of  Sam 
Jorge  de  hi  ilina  erected  on  u 
headland  of  the  coast,  and  by 
his  orders  the  transports  were 
scuttled  which  had  accom- 
panied his  shij)s  of  war.  This 
was  don<>  in  order  that  foreign- 
ers might  suppose  the  Guinea 
waters  unnavigahle  except  for 
vessels  of  Portuguese  build. 

^l  cvertheless  other  nations 
also  in  due  course  found  their 
way  to  the  Gold  Coast.  The 
Dutch  made  their  appearance 
towards  the  close  of  the  six- 
teenth century,  and  after 
expelling  the  Portuguese,  pur- 
chased the  Brandeid)urg  set- 
tlements foimded.  in  168'2  on 
Capo  Three  Points.  Tlie 
Dutch  were  in  their  turn 
driven  out  by  the  Jhiglish, 
who  in  ISoO  claimed  the 
whole  coast,  except  a  few 
Danish  and  Dutch  factories. 
The  former  were  purchased 
by  the  English,  the  latter 
acquired  in  exchange  for  the 
rights  possessed  by  the  Brit^ 
ish  to  certain  territories  in 
Sumatra.  But  the  surrender  of  the  Dutch  factories  in  1871  involved  the  English 
in  hostilities  with  tho  natives,  which  tei-minated  with  an  expedition  against  the 
Ashanlis  and  the  destruction  of  their  capital.  Since  then  the  whole  country  has 
been  traversed  by  survejors  and  pioneers,  and  even  in  the  conterminous  territories 
the  routes  of  explorers  are  continually  expanding. 


^^^^^^^•fi^oii^^L ■  :=^ 


0°  V/est  afbreenwlch 


Depths. 


0  to  wii) 
Fet-t 


Gtiu  i'cet  au(} 
upwards 


■  60  Mi'.es. 


.«y-sf    Miltm 


^^^^S^^X^^P^^^^ 


THE  GOLD  COAST. 


387 


Physicai.  Fkatires. 

The  whole  seaboard  of  the  Jlritish  posMCssioiis  projects  seawards  beyond  the 
normal  coastline.  Uut  the  most  prominent  headland  is  ('ape  Three  I'oints,  whoso 
<,Miinite,  diorite,  sandstone,  laterite,  and  eonjilomerate  hills  terminate  in  three 
sharp  peaks.  Several  of  the  promontories  at  this  anjrular  section  of  the  coast  rise  to 
a  hei^dit  of  about  ;r>(>  feet,  and  one  of  the  inland  siinunits  l-i  miles  from  the  sea 
attains  an  altitude  of  '2,()(»()  feet.  Most  of  these  hills  in  the  interior  are  either 
isolated,  or  else  disposed  in  short  ridjjes,  such  as  the  Ajamanti  «j;roup  ncrth-west 
of  Accra.  ibit  north  of  this  town  occurs  tlu'  donu'-shaped  Hampa,  the  first 
summit  of  the  Akwapcm  hills,  which  develop  a  true  range  running  north-east  and 
gradually  increasing  in  elevation.  IJeyond  the  gorge  pierced  by  the  river  Volta, 
this  range  is  continued  nearly  in  the  same  direction  through  the  Ibisso  country 
towards  the  lofty  crests  of  North  Dahomey. 

West  of  the  Volta  other  ridges  branch  off  from  the  Akwapem  system.  Sucli 
are  the  Okwahu  hills,  which  run  north-east,  merging  in  a  broad  plateau  "J, •,>()(» 
feet  high,  which  falls  southwards  tl  -ough  a  series  of  abrupt  terraces,  but  slopes 
gently  northwards  to  the  thinly]  il  steppes  beyond   the   Okwahu  territory. 

West  of  these  grassy  plains  a  few  lated  masses  1,000  or  1,700  feet  high,  form 
the  escarpment  of  the  less  elevated  Ashanti  plateau.  Such  are  the  Adausi  hills, 
which  have  become  famous  in  the  history  of  recent  wars,  their  densely  wooded 
slopes  forming  the  natural  frontier  of  the  Ashauti  country  on  the  route  between 
Cumassi  and  Capo  Coast. 

In  this  hilly  district  lies  the  Bussain  Och;;,  or  "  Sacred  Lake,"  a  landlocked 
lacustrine  basin,  which  has  become  one  of  the  great  fetishes  of  the  country.  The 
fish  here  captured  are  smoked  and  exported,  wrapped  in  banaiui  leaves,  to  every 
part  of  Ashanti.  North  of  the  hilly  /one  stretch  vast  plains  strewn  with  a  few 
isolated  bluffs,  such  as  the  majestic  rocks  resembling  Gibraltar  whi(rh  lionsdale 
met  on  the  route  between  Cumassi  and  Bontuku.  The  grassy  plateau.v  are  con- 
tinued north-westwards  to  the  still  unexplored  highland  region  generally  known 
by  the  Mandingan  name  of  "  Kong,"  or  "  Mountains."  But  in  the  Salaga  and 
Jendi  territories  north-east  of  Ashanti  those  Kong  ^Mountains  are  completely  intei-- 
rupted,  so  that  the  route  from  the  Upper  Volta  to  the  Niger  is  nowhere  obstructed 
by  any  elevated  ranges. 

E.IVEK  Systems. 

Copious  streams  descend  from  the  hills  and  upland  plains  forming  the  water- 
parting  east  of  the  Upper  Niger.  In  the  west  the  first  important  river  is  the 
Ancobra,  or  Ankobar,  which  encircles  the  promontory  of  Cape  Three  Points,  falling 
into  the  Bay  of  Axim  through  a  broad  mouth  with  a  sill  scarcely  7  feet  deep. 
The  Ancobra  rises  at  least  150  miles  from  the  sea,  in  the  Ashanti  country  between 
the  basins  of  the  still  larger  rivers,  Tanw^  and  Boosum  Prah,  whence  it  flows 
south-west  and  south   through  VVassaw,  one  of  the  richest  a,uriferou8  districts 


-« i.-^'-" '  P 


288 


WKST  AriMPA. 


on  tho  (Jold  ('oiist.     Its  name  is  a  oorni|)ti<)ii  of  the  Portii^ncfo   iJio  dii  r<»hrii,  or 
'Sniiko  Kivcr,"  ho  ciillt"!  from  its  niinuM-ouN  moaiKliM-iii^^s. 

KiiMt  of  Cajx'  Thrro  Points  Hows  tlic  Hoomuiii  I'rah  (('.iRsam  Pra),  tliat  is. 
"  IIolv  Hivcr,"s()  namod  lu'caiisc  it  wM'Vfd  a  sort  of  J'in  Snrni  for  tlio  AsliantiN,  wlio 
follo\v('<l  its  criiirso  on  tlu-ir  marauding'  cxpcditionH  to  tlu*  Noutli  of  tlicir  ti'rritory. 
Its  fonnidaltlc  bar  oni-o  croHsod,  the  Prali,  or  "  Hivcr,"  as  it  is  now  ('oiiimonly 
calli'd,  may  Ix' ascended  in  larj^c  craft  for  a  distancoof  about  lOd  miles,  while  lii^her 
up  the  Ashanti  country  may  ho  reached  in  cunoes  through  its  western  atfiuents. 


9f 


i 


Y\\f.    101.— TlIK    LoWKll    VOI.TA. 
Hcalo  1  :  000,000. 


0to82 
Feet. 


82  to  80 
Feet. 


Depths. 


80  to  «60 
Feet. 


660  Feet  nnd 
npwiirds. 


18  Miles. 


Towards  its  eastern  frontier  the  Gold  Coast  is  traversed  by  the  f»reat  river 
Volta,  or  Amu,  i)robably  the  most  coi)ious  on  the  African  seaboard  between  the 
Gambia  and  tlio  Ni<^er.  For  five  months  in  the  year  it  is  accessible  to  vessels 
drawinjf  seven  feet  as  far  as  Medica  (Amedica),  OO  miles  from  its  mouth;  and  lionnat 
ascended  in  a  canoe  boyond  the  rapids  to  Yoghyi,  the  jiort  of  Salaga,  240  miles 
fnmi  the  coast.  The  floods,  lasting  from  July  to  October,  rise  at  Aledica  40  feet 
and  beyond  the  Krakyc  Gorge  Go  feet  above  low  water,  and  at  Akwamu,  02  miles 
from  the  coast,  the  current  is  confined  to  a  rocky  channel  little  over  80  feet  wide. 
Here  five  dangerous  rapids  follow  within  a  space  of  half  a  mile,  but  above  this 
point  the  stream  flows  placid  as  a  lake  in  a  broad  bed  GO  feet  deep. 


f— 


Cdbrii,  or 

,  tliiit  in. 
litis,  who 
trnitorv. 
oiiiiiionly 
!<■  lii<j;luT 

illlt'UtS. 


5° 

40' 


rcat  river 
stweeii  the 

to  vessels 
nd  Bonnat 

240  miles 
ca  40  feet 
I,  02  miles 

feet  wide, 
above  this 


5;i."T,r.iiw-'-ffT''»  ■ ' 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT.3) 


Y 


/. 


1 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


M 
2.2 


It    lis    III  2.0 

11 1.8 


-    6" 


U    nil  1.6 


yy- 


<^ 


/a 


^3 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


■  *■  'a*  '■;:>!<^f  ':"i:;s«'jvv!vi  «i?.'*5B5eT:^'?'vw?5-S'R«!?siS3-  v^xmim^S^i^  •;!-';'iSS(@iSi' 


MP 


^ 


Si 


s  ' 


V 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


O^ 


I 


^mwrn^^'^m^^ 


;l?fflWi«S^K5WRS5W 


''^mmM^ 


-*a^,  sisspfa^sr- 


"ff4  -' 


cr.INrATE  OF  THE  GOLD  COAST. 


23!) 


In  the  low-lviiifj:  plains  below  the  <i;or<!:e8  the  Volta  ex])an(ls  in  tlie  rainy 
season  to  a  breadth  of  some  miles,  anrl,  altlxtugh  obstniete  I  by  a  shifting-  bar,  it 
is  then  accessible  to  vessels  drawiiif^  18  or '20  fe-et.  On  a])])roaching  the  sea  it 
develops  a  delta  with  several  branches  ramifyinj^  rovinl  the  Keniie  ly  Archipelaj^o 
and  otlier  islands.  Communication  is  also  att'ordcd  through  side  channels  with  the 
coast  lagoons,  separated  from  the  sea  oidy  by  narrow  sti'ips  of  sand  against  which 
the  surf  l)reaks  furiously. 

The  (iiietta,  one  of  these  higoons,  is  a  veritable  inland  sea  no  less  than  100 
square  miles  in  extent,  and  studded  with  numerous  thickly  peopled  islands.  Such 
is  the  geometrical  symmetry  of  the  semicircular  beach  facing  seawards  that  the 
mariner  has  a  ditficulty  in  discovering  the  Cape  St.  l*uul  figuring  ])rominently  on 
the  maps,  but  really  indicated  only  in  a  conveutifnial  way  by  a  buoy,  which  itself 
often  disappears  lieneath  the  muddy  foam  of  the  raging  surf. 

Nowhere  else  does  the  rakminff,  or  endless  line  of  parallel  breakers  bursting  on 
the  sandy  beach,  present  a  more  formidable  aspect  than  at  this  point  of  the  (Juinea 
coast.  Seafarers  call  it  the  "bar,"  comparing  it  to  the  sills  which  obstruct  the 
river  mouths,  and  it  really  acts  like  a  "bar,"  or  barrier,  between  the  high  seas 
and  the  shore,  dreaded  even  by  the  most  skilful  sailors.  At  all  times,  even  wheu 
the  sea  is  calm,  these  crested  billows  roll  in  from  the  deep,  hished  into  fury  by  the 
tides,  the  winds,  and  oppising  currents.  Occasionally  the  daring  Kroonien  them- 
selves refuse  to  venture  in  their  surfboats  across  the  furious  waves,  beyond  which 
the  large  vessels  are  seen  riding  calmly  at  anchor  in  smooth  waters. 


Climate. 

On  the  Gold  Coast  the  seasons  follow  in  tlie  same  order  and  present  the  same 
phenomena  as  in  the  regiims  lying  farther  west.  As  on  the  Ivory  Coast,  the  wet 
season,  beginning  in  March  or  April,  is  ushered  in  with  tierce  tornadoes,  after 
which  the  gales  gradually  fall  off  according  as  the  rains  set  iu.  The  nu)nsoous 
reap]»ear  with  the  dry  season,  wdien  the  south-west  winds  strike  against  the  coast, 
stirring  up  the  waves  and  veiling  the  horizon  in  fog  and  mist.  In  October  follows 
the  period  of  short  rains,  the  nu)st  dreaded  by  Europeans,  dry  weather  again 
setting  in  with  the  new  year.  Then  the  harmattan  is  most  prevalent,  forcing 
back  the  breakers  and  facilitating  the  approach  to  the  livers,  but  also  withering 
up  the  vegetation  and  tilling  the  air  with  clouds  of  dust. 

At  the  missionary  station  of  Ahetifi  in  the  Okwahu  uplands,  L>,Ol)0  feet  above 
sea-level,  the  temperature  ranges  from  61"  F.  to  f)")*-'  F.,  and  even  at  02"  F.  the 
natives  already  complain  of  the  cold.  On  an  average  these  uplands  are  four  or  five 
degrees  colder  than  the  coastlands.  The  rainfall  is  also  nnich  higher,  rising 
from  ;U  inches  at  Elmina  on  the  coast  to  -44  at  AbetiH.  On  the  whole  the  climate 
is  somewhat  less  dangerous  than  that  of  Sencgambiu,  more  especially  as  the  two 
hundred  or  three  hundred  Europeans  stationed  in  the  country  have  been  able  to 
establish  health  resorts  in  the  hilly  districts  of  the  interior. 


2W 


WEST  AFllICA. 


Flora  and  Faixa. 


Thanks  to  the  copious  rainfiill,  the  inland  liill}'  districts  are  clothed  with  dense 
forests  of  f>igantic  timber.  In  Wassaw  and  Dankira  the  stem  of  the  so-called 
Karkinn  lias  a  diiimeter  of  S  and  even  10  feet,  and  grows  to  the  height  of  200 
feet.  ]{ut  the  districts  stretching  north  of  the  Akwupeni  hills  are  deprived  by 
these  woodlands  of  the  moisture  needed  to  support  forest  growths,  and  are  conse- 
(juontly  covered  with  herbage,  with  here  and  there  a  few  thickets  of  scant  foliage. 
Yet  even  here  large  trees  interliu'e  their  branches  above  the  streams,  forming  hmg 
avenues  of  verdure  along  ihe  riverain  tracts.  The  Gold  Coast  is  es])ecially  rich 
in  ])alnis  of  diverse  sjKcies,  and  the  butter-tree  and  kola  nut  also  flourish  in  the 
Uorthern  forests. 

The  I'lepliant  was  formerly  almost  as  common  on  the  fJold  as  on  the  Tvory 
Coast.  IJosman,  who  resided  at  Hlminaat  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
speaks  of  an  ele])hant  getting  killed  in  the  garden  of  that  coast  station,  but  at  present 
these  animals  have  almost  entirely  disajipeared  from  the  coastlanils.  Even  beyond 
the  Adansi,  Ajamanti,  and  Akwa])cm  hills,  scarcely  any  game  is  now  to  be  seen; 
but  the  more  inland  savannahs,  and  especially  the  Okwahu  district  west  of  the 
Volta,  still  abound  in  elephants,  buffaloes,  ga/elles,  wild  boars,  and  various  species 
of  carnivora.  The  hip])opotamus  and  crocodile  are  also  numerous  in  the  Volta, 
notwitlistanding  the  lMiro])ean  steamers  now  plying  on  that  river.  In  the  forests 
are  met  two  ramarkable  shnians,  a  black  monkey  with  white  beard,  and  an  ashy 
grey  with  a  long  silken  coat.  In  the  savannahs  the  butterfly  world  is  as  varied 
as  are  the  flowers  themselves,  and  here  the  naturalist,  lUichholz,  collected  no  less 
than  seven  hundred  species  during  a  short  trip  to  the  interior.  Amongst  the 
insects  is  now  included  the  formidable  American  "  jigger  "  {Biili:v  penetrans),  intro- 
duced from  Brazil  by  llie  emancipated  Negroes.  The  tsetse,  or  some  anah)gous 
species,  is  fatal  to  cattle  in  nuiny  districts  on  the  coast,  and  the  destructive  ants 
have  been  known  to  attack  and  devour  poultry,  and  to  drive  the  natives  themselves 
from  their  dwellings.  The  great  enemy  of  the  ant  is  the  apra  {Jfatm  hmjican- 
iMitu),  which  is  completely  encased  in  strong  scales,  and  sleeps  like  a  snake  coiled 
within  its  long  tail.  For  the  natives  the  most  valuable  animal  is  a  8])ecies  of 
snail,  which  is  said  by  Bonnat  to  constitute  the  chief  staple  of  food  in  Ashanti. 

IXUAHITANTS. 

The  peoples  of  the  Gold  Coast  belong  to  two  distinct  stocks,  the  conquered 
aborigines  and  the  concpierors.  The  foinier  have  held  their  ground  as  separate 
groups  in  the  Upper  \o\hK  basin,  and  especially  in  the  hilly  inland  districts. 
Those  of  the  Brong  country,  north-west  of  the  Ashanti  state,  are  by  the  Ashantis 
collectively  called  Potoso,  that  is,  "Barbarians,"  and  most  of  them  speak  the 
Gwang,  the  Xta,  or  allied  idioms  derived  from  the  same  original  source  as  those 
of  their  coiujuerors  ;  but  nearly  all  are  now  also  familiar  with  the  Oji  or  (Ja  of 
their  })olitical  masters.  I'hysically,  the  two  races  differ  little  from  one  another, 
except  that  the  aborigines  are  more  robust,  and  practice  peculiar  social  us  iges 


.J 
o 


a 

o 


o 

u 

a 

E- 
< 

as 
» 


.J 


itJif  1 


m 


Ml  I 


tiiii 


m 


ill 

ill 
m 


til 


;  i 


llu.. 


IXlIAlilTANTS  OF  THE  GOLD  fOAST. 


211 


But  oven  those  primitive  contrasts  iut  fjvadunllN  lu'iiif;  offucod  by  crossing's,  a 
common  civilisation,  und  the  sjn-ead  of  Islam  on  the  one  hand,  and  of  Hnj>lish  and 
I'rotestant  influences  on  the  other. 

Besides  the  more  closely  allied  Ashanti  di  ileets.  there  are  several  others  which, 
althoujrh  hehtn^'in*;  to  the  same  fiToup,  are  mutually  uniiitellio'ihle.  Such  arc  the 
Obutu  of  the  Fanti  district,  and  especially  of  the  town  of  Afrmiii,  a  name  formerly 
applied  to  the  whole  re«i:ion  now  known  as  the  Gold  Coast  ;  the  Kycre])on<,'  of 
the  Akwapem  ujdands,  aud  the  Akra  (Inkram)  with  its  two  dialects,  the  fi,i 
and  Adamti,  8i)oken  hy  over  one  hundred  thousand  persons  on  the  Accra  Coast  and 
throu-rhout  the  province  of  Adamti,  that  is,  the  trian<,ndur  space  limited  cast  and 
north  by  the  Volta,  and  west  by  the  Akwajjem  hills.  The  Handa,  (Jyamnn,  and 
KouL'.  current  ncn-th  of  Ashanti,  also  l)elon<>'  to  the  sanu«  lin«,niistic  family,  which 
is  distin<5uislied  by  monosyllabic  roots  and  the  use  both  of  suttixes  and  pr(>tixes. 
In  Ga  and  Adamti  the  roots  are  so  few  that  the  different  tenses  have  to  be 
(listin^niished  by  tones,  as  in  the  Indo-Chinese  system.  The  tif-urative  exi)res,sions 
employed  bv  the  Ashantis  reveal  a  vivid  hiiu-y  and  considerable  ])oetic  sentiment. 

The  ethnical  jyroup  of  the  Oji  peoples  includinf>:  the  Ashantis  (Asantc). 
Dankiras,  Wassaws,  Akims,  Assins,  and  Fautis,  is  by  far  the  most  powerful  in  the 
mountainous  country  bounded  west  and  east  by  the  Tanw»'  and  the  N'olta.  The 
kint'dom  founded  bv  the  Ashantis.  who  till  latelv  ruled  over  nearly  all  the  other 
states  in  this  region,  dates  only  from  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century,  when 
the  conquering  tribe  advaiu'cd  from  the  land  of  Inta  to  the  north  or  north-east. 
But  this  migratory  movement  .seawards  has  been  going  on  for  countless  ages  all 
along  the  seaboard  from  the  Senegal  to  the  Congo,  siu-ces.sive  streams  of  migration 
flowing  continuously  from  some  connnon  centre  in  the  interior  towards  the  coast. 
It  is  even  now  proceeding  in  the  Ashanti  country,  where  the  intrudiTig  Moham- 
medan Mandingans  arc  already  numerous  in  the  chief  towns,  and  where  se\  eral 
petty  states  have  been  brought  under  the  preponderating  influence  of  Islam. 

The  Ashantis  are  physically  one  of  the  finest  peoples  on  the  African  continent, 
the  men  tall  and  well-])ioi)oitioned,  the  women  graceful,  with  regular  features. 
The  com])lcxion  is  very  black  and  the  luiir  kinky,  but  the  nose  is  thin,  while  the 
lips  protrude  very  little  ;  hence  in  their  original  homes  the  Ashantis  may  perhaps 
have  intermingled  with  the  Arabs  aud  Berbers.  They  have  a  (piick  intelligence 
and  excellen!;  memory,  and  readily  adapt  themselves  to  their  surroundings.  On 
the  river  banks  they  are  husbandnu-n,  in  the  steppes  stock-breeders,  on  the 
lagoons  and  seacoast  fl.shers  and  boatmen,  in  the  towns  eager  traders  and  skilful 
craftsmen.  They  weave  cotton  fabrics,  turn  and  glaze  earthenware,  forge  iiou, 
fabricate  instruments  and  arms,  end)roider  rugs  and  carpets,  set  gold  and  precious 
stones.  Their  language,  varicmsly  known  as  the  Oji,  Ochi,  (hi,  Twi,  <Sic.,  is  one 
of  the  most  harmonious  in  Africa,  and  has  also  been  one  of  the  most  carefully 
studied,  sufficient  materials  having  already  been  collected  for  a  comparative  study 
of  its  various  dialects  during  an  evolution  of  two  centuries.  The  best  suited  for 
literature  appears  to  be,  not  the  Akan,  or  court  language,  but  that  of  Akwapem, 
into  which  the  Bible,  prayers,  aud  hymns,  have  been  translated.     It   scarcely 


tkimn 


-42 


WEST  AFKICA. 


"If 


8  n 


m 


(liiVcrs,  except  in  pronunciation,  from  the  Fiinti.  and  before  Hritish  intervention 
these  two  peo])les  were  at  constant  warfare,  althoiij>h  consciouH  of  a  conunon 
orifjin.  Accorclinj?  to  the  h-jj^end  two  l)rotliers,  ut'ter  h>iii>;  enduring  the  panjjs  of 
hunger,  found  eadi  an  edible  jjhint,  one  \\wj'an  the  otlier  tlie  -s/kih,  wh"nee  their 
national  names  Fn iif i  vnid  Axliftuti. 

lU'fore  iheir  ])()\\er  was  broken  by  the  English,  the  Ashantis  had  established 
an  absolut*'  government  l»ased  on  an  organised  systejn  of  terror.  The  (h'spotisni 
of  tlie  king  over  his  subjects,  of  the  nobles  over  their  retainers,  of  the  military 
chiefs  over  the  soldiers,  of  master  over  slave,  knew  absolutely  no  limits.  IJut  its 
sanguinary  code  and  atrocious  customs  at  last  rendered  this  system  intolerable. 
Revolts  and  foreign  wars,  demoralisation  within  and  the  outward  influence  of 
more  humane  usages,  Immght  abont  the  dissolution  of  the  Ashanti  empire,  the 
ruin  of  its  institutions,  and  a  gradual  modification  of  the  corresponding  social 
order.  The  descriptions  current  in  books  of  travel  refer  to  a  society  which  has 
cea.sed  to  be,  but  which  has  left  behind  it  many  traces  of  its  former  existence. 

The  Ashanti  king  ruled  over .  a  nation  of  grovellings,  who  cnnichod  like 
whii)])ed  houiuls  at  his  feet,  awed  or  terror-stricken  at  his  eveiy  word  or  gesture. 
Although  enjoying  a  traditional  right  of  veto  in  <|ue8tion8  of  war  and  imposts, 
his  ministers  had  long  been  content  to  play  the  part  of  fawning  courtiers  and 
ajjprovers.  One  of  the  chief  functionaries  of  the  royal  household  was  the  head 
executicmer,  who  wore  as  an  emblem  of  his  office  a  gold  axe  in  a  loo])  of  his  dress. 
The  pages  were  armed  with  fetish  weapons,  enabling  them  to  plunder  indiscrimi- 
nately and  with  im]nuiity.  The  sovereign  was  moreover  the  legal  heir  of  all  the 
gold,  gems,  and  ])reciou8  objects  belonging  to  his  sid)ject8,  and  oti  grand  occasi(ms 
he  decreed  a  general  confiscation  of  property  on  behalf  of  the  treasury.  All  male 
adults  formed  his  army,  and  on  the  dedaratictn  of  war  every  man  seizing  his  gun, 
his  bag  of  victuals,  hi.:i  amulets,  ha.stened  to  join  the  ranks;  while  the  women, 
daubed  with  white  clay,  went  in  procession  througb  the  streets,  searching  the 
houses  for  laggards  or  deserters. 

The  throne  is  inherited  not  in  the  male  line  but  by  the  eldest  son  of  the  king's 
sister,  or  by  some  other  nephew  on  the  female  .side.  According  to  IJowdich,  the 
official  niunber  of  Avives  was  .'},;5;{;5,  of  whom  five  or  six  only  occupied  the  private 
harem;  but  all  were  jealously  guarded  by  eimuchs,  and  allowed  to  go  abroad  only 
at  night.  The  king's  sisters  might  marry  the  man  of  their  choice,  but  this  was  a 
dangerous  favour,  as  in  case  of  her  death  or  that  of  her  son,  the  husband  was 
expected,  like  a  faithful  slave,  to  follow  them  beyond  the  grave.  Persons  of  royal 
birth  were  also  frequently  condemned  to  die,  but  without  effusion  of  blood,  by 
drowning  in  the  river.  The  military  chiefs  also,  in  case  of  defeat,  committed 
suicide  in  presence  of  their  troops,  in  accordance  with  the  Ashanti  proverb,  "  Death 
is  better  than  disgrace."  Although,  like  the  king,  these  "  cabaceres  "  had  many 
wives,  most  of  the  people  were  satisfied  with  one  ;  but  all  were  extremely  jealous, 
while  the  greatest  cruelties  were  sanctioned  for  trivial  offences.  Women  su.spccted 
of  sorcerj'  were  put  to  the  torture,  gossips  condemned  to  lose  the  upper  lip,  and 
eavesdroppers  deprived  of  one  ear. 


rrrt'WI  TT3=¥f  oett 


INIIAIMTANTS  OF  THE  GOLD  TOAST. 


218 


torvontion 
i    ciiiiiinoii 

I'  ])illl<i'S  of 

"iicc  tlioir 

•stiihlisliod 
(IcHpotifiin 
('  iiiililiii'v 
i.  lUit  itH 
iitiilorablo, 
tiiicnce  of 
iiipiro,  tlio 
liii<;-  social 
which  has 
toiice. 
iclicd  like 
»r  <>;cstiii'o. 
d  imposts, 
irtiors  and 
s  the  head 
'  his  dross, 
iidisciimi- 
of  all  the 
I  occasions 
All  male 
<,'  his  g'un, 
ho  women, 
ching  the 

tho  king's 
wdich,  the 
he  private 
l)road  only 
this  was  a 
shand  was 
lis  of  royal 

hlood,  by 
committed 
h,  "  Death 

had  many 
ly  jealous, 
1  suspected 
er  lip,  and 


Till  latolv,  funerals  wore  t]u>  most  dreaded  events  in  Ashanti  sm-ioty.  <>n  the 
ai)proaching  death  of  a  chief  the  slaves  were  watched  or  even  chained  to  i)rovent 
lIuMU  from  escaping  the  terriltio  coroniony,  and  immediatelv  after  his  last  gasj) 
two  were  sacriticod  to  accompany  him  beyond  the  grave.  Then  at  (ho  solemn 
burial,  tho  whole  gang  of  appointed  victims,  ninnerous  in  ])ro]torlioii  to  iho  rank 
or  wealth  of  the  deceased,  walked  in  tho  funeral  in-ocession  amid  a  throng  of 
wcmu-n  howling  and  dancing,  their  bodies  painted  u  blood-rod  colour.  A  certain 
magic  word  might  save  the  wretches  doomed  to  die  ;  but  tho  shouts  of  the  rabble 
and  tho  roll  of  drums  always  ])revontod  tlie  saving  word  from  being  lu-ard.  Tho 
oxociitionors,  kiiown  by  thoir  black  attire,  were  deaf  to  all  appeal,  and  to  sto])  the 
crv  for  mercy  closed  tlw  mouth  of  tho  slave  either  by  gagging  or  by  thrusting  a 
(lag"-er  through  both  chocks;  tlu-n  they  severed  his  right  hand  and  -awed  off  his 
head.  Hut  slaves  did  not  sulbco,  and  the  great  captain  also  needed  the  society 
of  a  free  man  in  his  future  home.  Ilonce  one  of  the  assistants,  siublenly  and 
at  haphazard  seized  from  behind,  was  immolated  with  tho  rest,  and  his  still 
palpitating  body  thrown  into  the  ])it,  which  was  inunodiately  tilled  u]).  When 
the  king  himself  died,  hundreds  i)orishcd  in  this  way,  all  who  had  served  as 
si)ies,  or  were  known  as  kra  or  "  soids,"  of  the  sovereign,  being  innnohited  to 
continue  their  watch  over  him  in  the  other  life.  AVith  him  wore  also  buried 
vast  treasures,  which  his  successor  could  touch  only  in  case  of  extreme  i)eril  to  the 

State. 

The  criminal  code  was  no  less  sanguinary.  To  break  an  egg  or  sjjill  any  palm- 
oil  in  the  streets  of  ("umassi,  were  capital  offences.  The  arms  of  murderers  wore 
struck  off  before  being  killed,  and  the  blooding  wretches  had  then  to  perform  a 
funeral  dance  in  the  king's  presence,  lighted  torches  being  applied  to  their  wounds 
to  stimulate  them  in  the  execution  of  the  prescribed  gambols.  But  the  great 
"  customs,"  or  feasts  were  the  chief  occasion  of  the  wholesale  massacres,  which  had 
become  a  necessary  institution  under  the  Ashanti  system  of  govornm(<nt.  The 
autumn  harvest  feast  had  especially  to  be  copiously  watered  with  blood  ;  at  that 
season  the  provincial  cabaceres  wore  re(piired  to  visit  the  coa.st,  and  on  entering 
the  town  they  offered  a  slave  to  the  local  genius.  Each  quarter  had  its  saciiKces, 
blood  flowed  everywhere  ;  the  executioners  indul.T'd  in  frenzied  dances,  boating 
their  drums  decked  with  human  skulls,  and  the  ;  tish-men  concocted  philters 
a«miust  death  bv  mixing  human  blood  with  corn,  ijieence  reigned  in  the  riotous 
citv,  for  it  was  the  feast  of  renewal,  of  life  and  death. 

One  of  the  streets  of  Cumassi  was  called  "  Never  dry  of  blood,"  and  according 
to  a  Fanti  play  of  words  the  very  name  of  the  city  meant  "  Kill  them  all."  The 
new-born  infant  was  slain  on  a  day  of  ill-omen  ;  in  certain  districts  the  poison  cup 
was  the  means  of  solving  all  difficulties,  and  in  this  way  whole  viUages  were 
nearly  depopidated.  In  such  a  land  of  terror  and  oppression  life  was  held  in 
slight  esteem,  and  suicides  became  very  frequent,  especially  anu)ngst  the  slaves. 
When  one  of  this  class  made  up  his  mind  to  die  he  gave  notice  to  his  owner,  who 
gave  him  a  bottle  of  brandy  to  make  him  drunk,  and  then  had  him  clubbed  to 
death.     It  was  full  time  that  by  the  influence  of  the  English  on  the  one  hand  and 


Hi' 


211  WEST  AFUir.V. 

of  the  Miiii(liii<>:iins  on  the  other,  an  ond  should  ut  hist  bo  put  to  such  a  frightful 
roign  of  ciiniiigo. 

Bcforo  the  war  of  lH7'-i,  which  brought  the  English  to  runiassi,  the  kingdom 
of  Ashanti  with  all  its  vassal  states  oec\iiiied  a  sjjae.'  comprising  in  the  nortli  and 
north-east  all  the  mountain  slopes,  while  the  plains  of  Dugomba  for  a  distance  of 
-MO  miles  paid  it  tribute.  In  the  south  the  Ashantis  had  reduced  the  Ihmkiras, 
their  former  masters,  and  (levelo])ing  a  crescent  from  the  Assini  to  the  Jjower  Volta, 
they  were  pressing  the  allies  of  the  Muropciins  more  and  more  towards  the  coast. 

Fi>f.     10). — Uol'TK    FHOM    .\C 'liA   TO   ClLMASSr. 
Sonll'  1  ;  SOO.IKIO. 


reenwicn 


au  Miles. 


They  had  even  reached  the  sea  at  the  mouth  of  the  fioosum-Prah,  and  elevated  by 
former  succes.ses  over  the  whiti's,  as  at  the  bittle  of  Essemacu,  in  lS'i4,  when  thoy 
"  devoured  the  courage  of  the  English  "  by  eating  General  MacC^arthy's  heart, 
they  even  attacked  the  fortresses  on  the  coast,  sealing  the  ramparts  to  the  very 
canon's  mouth. 

]Jut  in  the  decisive  campaign  of  1873,  said  to  have  been  foretold  by  the  fall  of 
the  great  fetish  tree  at  Cumassi,  they  were  fain  to  yield  to  Uritish  valour,  the 
flight  of  the  king  immediately  involving  the  whole  empire  in  complete  disorgani- 
sation. All  the  vassal  provinces  resumed  their  independence,  and  many  Ashantis 
themselves  were  glad  to  settle  in  Dankira  under  British  protection.     The  kingdom 


INlIAiaXANTS  OF  THE  OOLD  lUAST. 


215 


frightful 

kinfjdoin 
north  and 
istaiifc  (»t 
Dimkinis, 
,'vr  Voltii, 
the  coast. 


6° 

30' 


5° 

50' 


L'vatcd  by 

rhon  thoy 

y's  heart, 

the  very 

the  fall  of 
alour,  the 
tlisorgani- 
■  Ashantis 
!  kingdom 


la  now  reduced  to  the  district  limited  on  the  south  by  the  wooded  IiiIIm  of  Adansi, 
and  a  mere  threat  of  the  llewident  at  Accra  Hutlicod  to  induce  the  once  formidable 
Ashanti  potentate  ton  render  to  the  (iueen  of  Kngland,  if  not  IiIh  ^uhU-n  axe, 
at  leuHt  an  imitation  of  that  terribk'  fetish,  symbol  of  the  right  of  murder  which 
he  claimed  over  his  whole  people.  According  to  Lonsdale,  the  Ashanti  chiefs 
would  now  find  it  impossible  to  raise  uu  urmy  of  over  six  thousand  men. 

The  Fantis  had  been  the  almost  constant  allies  of  the  IJritish,  as  the  Ashuntis 
had  been  of  the  Dutch.  General  MacCarthy,  who  died  at  their  head  early  in  the 
century,  had  become  for  them  a  tutelar  deity  ;   their  most  solemn  oath  was  taken 

Fig.  106.— Gold  Coast  Tonskssions  and  Suueoundi.vo  Distuicts. 
Sciue  I  ;  i,iM\tm. 


0'  West   of  GreenwicH 


Depths. 


to  fi60 
Feet 


eWi  Feet  nnd 
up\riirdB. 

—  60  MUeg. 


in  his  memory,  and  many  gave  their  children  thv-  name  of  Karte,  Fanti  form  of  the 
Irish  MucCarthy. 

Kinsmen,  but  hereditary  enemies  of  the  Ashantis,  the  Fantis  rcsendile  them  in 
disposition  and  versatility  of  character.  But  their  manners  have  chaiiged,  and 
instead  of  a  single  monarchical  government,  they  have  formed  an  almost  rei)ublican 
confederacy  of  petty  states.  Thanks  to  long  contact  with  Europeans,  they  have 
ceased  to  celebrate  their  feasts  with  massacres,  and  at  burials  the  human  victims 
are  replaced  by  gifts  of  clothes,  ornaments,  and  the  like.  Nevertheless  the  Fanti 
penal  code  is  still  severe,  capital  punishment  being  often  inflicted  for  several 
offences.  Amongst  these  peoples  wealth  is  held  in  special  honour,  and  till  recently 
justice  was  sold  in  the  most  cynical  manner.  In  lawsuits  one  of  the  suitors  would 
challenge  his  opponent  to  prove  the  righteousness  of  his  cause  by  a  better  present 
than  his  own  to  the  paitniK  or  "  elders."    Each  party  then  displayed  in  open  court 


tku€i« 


2in 


WEST   Al-'UICA. 


all  the  bottles  and  jurs  of  whiskey  that  ho  could  uffor..  in  support  of  his  caHO, 
scnti'iico  ht'inj;  f^iven  in  faA'our  of  whoever  made  the  greatest  show.  The  insohont 
debtor  is  hehl  in  dishonour,  and  at  his  death  cast  on  the  highway  without  funeral 
rites. 

The  I''initi  is  distiufjuislu'd  fioni  the  nei^'hhourin^  jx'oples  hy  incisions  on  the 
cheek-l)ones  and  nape.  The  Akiins,  also  on  the  soutli-east  {'ronlier  of  the  Asliun- 
lis,  are  said  to  lie  easily  recoj^nisiul  hy  reniarkahk  ])ioniinences  on  the  clieek-hones, 
forming,  as  it  were,  two  rudimentary  horns  on  either  side  of  the  noso.  Till 
recently  every  Fanti  was  a  soldier  hmind  to  follow  his  /j/v(//(>,  or  "  leader,"  to 
death.  At  tlie  time  of  the  first  migrations  towards  the  coast,  the  warriors  are  said 
to  have  diclared  that  they  would  choose  as  their  supreme  chief  whatever  nohlcmau 


m 


Fi^f.  107. — Inhabitants  of  the  Gold  Coast  and  Situboundino  Distuicts. 

Sralo  1  :  4  BOO.nnO. 


^^  Bompati 


□«nk«r« 


liopths. 


OtoWiO 
Feet. 


6(1(1  Fwt  nnil 
utivai'ds. 

60  Miles. 


was  willing  to  sacrifice  Ins  right  hand  for  his  country.  Theretipon  a  chief  eagerly 
tendered  his  arm,  which,  being  severed  at  a  blow,  he  was  proclaimed  braffo  by 
acclamation.  In  this  family,  which  was  nearly  exterminated  by  the  Ashaiitis, 
the  order  of  succession  is  always  from  tlie  uncle  to  the  sister's  son,  as  aniougst  so 
many  other  African  peoples. 

Every  town,  every  village  and  family  has  its  fetish,  besides  which  there  is  a 
"master  of  masters,  father  of  all,"  who  by  many  tribes  is  confounded  with  the 
firmament.  All  natural  objects  are  su])poscd  to  act  for  good  or  for  evil  on  the 
destiny  of  each  individual,  and  these  influences  have  to  be  solicited  or  conjured 
by  magic  ceremonies.  AVlien  a  whale  is  stranded  great  evils  are  threatened, 
because  the  marine  mammals  are  an  ancient  race  swallowed  up  by  the  waves,  but 


■ir-yr^iz:-,  ,T7:-n,7V'!^TiVT^:(«J«\-i:T^_^-*jrgrj^-';«^^ 


TorOiiUAIilV  (»F  TllH  (JOM)  fOAST. 


217 


luH    CIIHO, 

!  inN<»hont 
ut  fmioral 

(iiH  on  tlio 
he  i\Hluin- 
it'k-boiios, 
oso.  Till 
ciuk'r,"  to 
IS  are  Hiiid 

IH)1>lcilliUl 


of  eagerly 
bruffo  by 
Ashantis, 


iinougst  so 


tberc  is  a 
I  with  the 
fi\  on  the 
r  conjured 
hreatened, 
waves,  but 


over  unxioUM  to  recover  the  land.  On  tlic  olliti  Imnd,  the  Xi/p/ilax  (jl(Klii(s  is  a  tisli 
of  good  onun,  whose  sword  is  rej^ardi'd  as  a  priceless  heirloom,  pnitcclin;.'-  the 
family  from  all  niishai»s.  Trees,  jilants,  rocks,  streams,  are  all  classed  amonj^st 
the  lu'iicticcnt  or  hostile  spirits,  and  iJosman  tells  us  that,  till  rccciiitly,  the  second 
wife  ill  wealthy  circles  was  specially  delicateil  to  the  genii,  and  as  such  declared  to 
be  fetish. 

( >ii  tlic  coast  and  uplands  occur  a  great  variety  of  tribal  names,  although  nio>t 
belong  to  the  same  stock  as  the  Ashantis  and  Fantis,  whom  they  resemlde  in 
spci'ch,  usages,  political  and  social  institutions,  and  religious  views.  Still  the 
eastern  tribes  —  Accras,  Krobos,  Awuiias,  Agotiines,  Krepis — are  distinguished 
from  the  Asliantis  jn-ojier  by  grt-atcr  ]>hysical  strength,  courage,  and  industry. 
They  were  formerly  coUectivi'ly  known  as  Minas  or  Aminas,  a  term  now  reserved 
for  those  living  still  further  east  on  the  Slave  Coast. 

At  present  numerous  stations  are  supjMU'tefl  by  the  Catholics  and  Protestants, 
but  especially  by  the  Lutherans  of  the  Hasle  Mission,  successors  of  the  Moravian 
Ihdthers  who  arrived  in  17;5().  Hut  altliough  some  now  villages  are  exclusively 
occupied  by  converted  Negroes,  very  rare,  coni])aratively  speaking,  are  thos(>  calling 
themselves  ( 'hristians  for  disinterested  moti^•es.  Some,  no  sooner  than  baptised, 
make  themselves  Mohammedans  ;  yet  amongst  them  spring  up  new  sects,  winch 
may,  in  many  respects,  be  C(mi))ared  to  that  of  the  Cbinese  Tai])ings.  The  fetishes 
have  h)st  their  credit  in  the  Adelo  and  Akabu  territories,  east  of  the  middle  V(dtu. 
where  the  native  missicniaries  are  proclaiming  a  new  gospel,  announcing  that  a 
"  son  has  been  born  unto  God,  who  has  forbidden  all  work  on  the  Lord's  day.'' 

When  the  Portuguese  spoke  to  them  of  a  Hupreme  (Jod  the  coast  j)opulutions 
regardid  him  as  the  great  fetish  of  the  European  peoples.  "  Nut  he,"  they  said, 
"  but  the  earth  gives  us  gold  ;  not  he,  but  our  work  has  given  us  maize  and  rice  ; 
the  sea  yields  us  fish,  and  to  you,  Portuguese,  we  owe  the  fruit-trees."  This 
foreign  god  was  for  them  a  white  being  like  the  men  that  worshipped  him.  Put 
were  they  not  blacks,  and  how  could  they  invoke  any  other  fetish  except  one  of 
their  own  colour  '■^  Py  destiny  itself  their  lot  was  made  different  from  that  of  the 
whites.  When  the  two  first  men  had  to  choose  between  gold  and  letters,  the 
Negro  had  taken  the  metal,  while  the  white  man  learnt  to  read  and  write.  Thus 
he  became  the  stronger,  and  his  God  was  the  most  powerful  of  all  gods. 

Topography. 

"West  of  Cape  Three  Points  the  English  have  no  important  seaport.  A/hdiii, 
standing  on  the  .strip  of  sand  between  the  lagoon  and  the  sea,  is  a  mere  hamlet 
sometimes  called  Ila/f-Asfiiiii,  as  compared  with  the  French  factory  at  the  issue  of 
the  lakes,  liehiin,  the  Apolhiiia  of  the  Portuguese,  is  a  mere  group  of  huts  like 
all  the  palisaded  villag's  following  in  a  continuous  line  eastwards.  This  sec'ion  of 
the  coast  is  one  of  the  most  densely  peopled  in  Africa,  although  till  lately  posses- 
sing only  a  single  centre  of  population.  On  a  hill  between  the  two  villages  stands 
the  fort  of  Axim,  originally  Portuguese,  then  Dutch,  now  English,  erected  to 


248 


WEST  AFRICA. 


M'l 


commanfl  the  Ancobra  valley,  beyond  which,  towards  Cape  Three  Points,  are  seen 
the  ruins  of  the  Brandenburg  fort  Gross- FrM/cric/isbnrg.  Axim,  the  Essim  of  the 
natives,  offers  the  best  landing  on  the  whole  coast,  thanks  to  the  shelter  afforded 
by  the  islets  of  IJobowusua  and  Poke.  Here  Burton  picked  up  some  implements  of 
the  Stone  Ago,  and  nowhere  else  on  this  coast  have  so  many  stone  hatchets  been 
found  as  in  the  Axim  district. 

Axim  must  one  day  become  the  port  of  the  whole  region  stretching  away  to 
the  Kong,  aiid  comprising  the  still  little  known  territories  of  Aowin,  Suhwi,  and 
Gyaman.  A  good  road  now  connects  it  with  the  Ancobra,  which  affords  the 
easiest  access  to  the  Wassaw  gold  mines.  The  petty  chiefs  have  also  been  called 
upon  to  clear  the  forest  routes  and  bridge  tlie  streams  in  order  to  keep  the  com- 
munication open  between  the  coast  and  Tarkwu  (Tdn/iHi/i),  head(puirters  of  the 
mining  district.  A  railway,  -"iG  miles  long,  has  even  been  proposed  for  the  convey- 
ance of  the  heivy  machinery  needed  for  the  systematic  working  of  tlie  gold 
mines. 

Aodwft,  former!}^  capital  of  Wassaw,  is  now  a  mere  hamlet,  most  of  the  people 
having  gravitated  towards  the  mines  granted  to  English  and  French  capitalists 
after  IJoiuiat's  careful  survey  of  the  ground.  The  gold  is  obtained  especially  from 
the  gneiss  and  otlior  primitive  rocks,  the  yearly  yields,  excluding  tluit  collected  by 
the  natives,  averaging  £'l'2-"),000  between  1S()()  and  18<S().  Veins  of  silver,  copper, 
and  tin  have  also  been  met  in  the  hills,  while  iron  and  manganese  occur  every- 
where. Gold  dust  is  the  only  currency  in  this  province  of  Guinea,  from  which  the 
old  English  gold  piece  took  its  name.  Most  of  the  laljourers  engaged  on  the 
works  are  Apolloniaiis  and  Kroomon,  nearly  all  demoralised  by  the  vices  almost 
inseparable  from  this  industry.  The  only  noteworthy  place  beyond  the  mining 
district  is  Mdiimt,  lying  about  midway  on  the  new  route  between  Tarkwa  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Prah. 

The  fort  commanding  the  little  creek  of  Di.rcorc,  cast  of  Cape  Three  Points,  has 
some  strategic  impcu'tance,  thanks  to  its  position  near  the  headland.  Most  of  the 
other  old  forts  on  this  part  of  the  coast  are  now  in  ruins,  but  ChrtuM  has  been 
maintained  and  even  enlarged  in  consequence  of  its  position  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Prah.  But  most  of  the  trade  with  the  interior  has  been  transferred  to  Ehuiiia,  the 
oldest  European  factory  on  the  Gold  Coast.  The  French  first  settled  at  Ln  Mine 
towards  the  end  of  the  fourteenth  century,  and  after  their  departure  the  Portiig\iese 
made  Elmina  their  chief  stronghold  on  this  seaboard.  Later  it  became  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Dutch  possessions  on  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  and  passed  from  them  to 
Great  Britain  in  1871.  SIticc  then,  having  ceased  to  be  a  capital,  it  has  lost  most 
of  its  inhabitants,  although  enjoying  the  advantage  of  good  carriage  roads,  both 
with  the  mouth  of  the  Prah  through  the  station  of  Commetuhh,  and  eastwards 
with  Cdpc  Coast  Castle,  which  has  become  a  chief  centre  of  British  authorit}'  on 
the  Gold  Coast. 

The  Ljwah  {E(jira,  O^ira,  Giro)  of  the  natives  owes  its  English  name  of  Cape 
Coast  Castle  to  a  misundorstanding  of  the  Portuguese  Capo  Corno,  the  Cop  Coi'xo 
of  the  French,  although  the  term  "  castle  "  is  justified  by  a  number  of  forts  erected 


'Pii" 


ints,  are  seen 
Ussim  of  the 
alter  afforded 
niplomeuts  of 
latchets  bocu 

liiug  away  to 
1,  Subwi,  aud 
1  affords  the 
iO  been  called 
cop  the  com- 
irtors  of  the 
r  the  couvey- 
of  tlie  gold 

[)f  the  people 
oil  capitalists 
pecially  from 

collected  by 
ilver,  copper, 

occur  everv- 
im  which  the 
[aged  on  the 

vices  almost 
1  the  mining 
"kwa  and  the 

!e  Points,  has 
Most  of  the 
mx  has  been 
mouth  of  the 
:>  Ehitiiia,  the 
1  at  La  Mi)ie 
10  Portuguese 
me  the  head- 
Tom  them  to 
has  lost  most 
e  roads,  both 
nd  eastwards 
authority  on 

ame  of  Cape 

he  Cap  Cone 

forts  erected 


lllllllliii!!l'iii!i:"i':"T 


ill 


'i'i'ir:PiipE|nni!i!! 


.■II, 


!■!■: 


'lllll'll 


11; 


IIP 


Mm 
1i||i||lli!li 


'iiifi' 

I    J'i  I'lh 


4 


!llli!li':'! 


™§t 


|i;{li'r!l;y|i|| 


iM   '  II  h         li 


Mli     'ill 


lilpi, 


';iil:|i'' 


!!i    i' 

''lil'!"!!': 


iijij 


ll'llll, 


\:A 


,i:'        i:i' 


ll:! 


1^,1       i 


iji'ii' 

Hi 


ij.;:  H.i.'l 
il'lill'llii 


ilill 


1 


'|irJ!:!ii,i 


1,:! 

ii;::i|i|;i|||||l||iliii!i!liil|l||i 

|l|.ili'||     n  lliiili"*''"':'''^^ 

'  ■'-'''  "lilllll  li , 


li 


iiTii'Pi'liK 


iii..i.>.i:i:ivi:! »',:.! 


o 
o 

(J 


■'■:^^-y^--. 


r'T.-Hf  '.T""j?n'>'i?^13^'T^ 


TOl'OGKAl'IIY  OF  THE  GOLD  tOA8T.  249 

oil  the  cncirrling  hills.     The  triidorsof  this  place  do  a  considerahh!  traffic  with  the 


I'll*  m0i 


I'lah  valley  and  the  Ashanti  state,  and  here  is  the  seaward  terminus  of  the  main 

8n_AF 


f « 


m 


« !!1!; 


m 


i 


4*M 

i 


ym 


2oO 


WliST  AFHICA. 


route  1(>  idiiij?  tliiough  tlio  I^'piKM-  I'rali  busin  to  Ciimassi.  On  this  route  the  chiel" 
inilitiuy  slatinns  are  Jlaiixii,  at  the  eouHueuce  of  the  ehief  branches  of  the  I'rah, 
and  Prtihsii,  or  "  I'rah-head,"  on  the  river  of  like  name,  beh»w  the  junction  of  the 
IJirim.  At  tlie  latter  station,  described  as  the  "  key  "  to  Ashanti,  the  chiefs  of 
that  state  conio  to  consult  or  receive  the  orders  of  the  Ihitish  authorities. 

Ciimassi,  capital  of  Ashanti,  is  a  large  place  nearly  -\  miles  iu  circumference, 
situated  on  an  extensive  phiin  watered  by  a  tributary  of  the  Duh,  tlie  chief  western 
branch  of  the  I'rah.  Ik'fore  the  war  it  was  said  to  have  a  population  of  seventy 
thousand,  but  since  the  destruction  of  the  royal  palace  and  neigh bouiing  (puirtins 
by  the  English  in  1874,  most  of  the  inhabitants  have  emigrated,  and  at  the  time  of 
Lagden's  visit  in  1S<S;{,  Cumassi  differed  little  from  the  other  Ashanti  villages  in 
the  neighbouriiood.  Ibit  in  1SS4  a  great  change  took  place:  the  trade  routes 
were  again  opened,  thousands  of  natives  returned,  and  new  housus,  some  with  two 
storeys  in  the  European  style,  sprang  up  in  all  directions. 

Gold  min(-s  are  wcnked  in  Ashanti,  and  especially  in  the  provinces  of  Dadeassi 
and  bKjuanta,  where  the  rich  deposits  of  Taikwa  are  continued  towards  the  north- 
east. During  the  rainy  season  the  gold-seekers  wash  the  sands  for  the  precious 
dust  in  the  very  streets  of  Tumassi  itself.  The  clouds  of  vultures  and  other 
carrion  birds  have  ceased  to  hover  above  this  city,  and  its  sacred  groves  and  royal 
necropolis  or  charnel-house  of  liantamii,  formerly  girdled  round  with  dead  bodies 
and  reeking  with  human  blood.  The  last  sacrifice  appears  to  have  taken  place  in 
1.S82,  at  the  funeral  of  one  of  the  king's  ainits. 

In  the  other  Ashanti  provinces  cities  have  risen  and  fallen  according  to  the 
vicissitudes  of  peace  and  war,  subsequent  to  the  invasion  of  the  coutjuering  race. 
Jiifi/tiiii,  former  rival  of  Cumassi,  is  still  a  populous  place;  Kokqfii,  Iiiqiiatdu,  and 
Mampomj,  lately  capitals  of  vassal  states,  were  almost  completely  abandoned  at  the 
time  of  Kirby's  visit  in  1S74  ;  liocqun,  at  one  time  nearly  as  populous  as  Cumassi, 
was  also  deserted  in  1880  in  conse(|uen(:e  of  an  outbreak  of  small-pox. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  more  fortunate  towns  of  Akim,  in  the  Upper  Prah  and 
Hirim  basins,  have  increased  in  popidation  and  wealth.  Itisuaim  {Nsiiaem)  or 
Oha,  capital  of  We.st  Akim,  near  the  Birim  river,  has  become  one  of  the  great  cities 
of  Africa ;  Soiu/ra,  half  a  mile  to  the  south,  is  also  a  large  place,  and  probably 
over  twenty  thousand  peojde  are  concentrated  in  a  space  of  about  4  nnles  round 
Oba.  lioinptitii,  capital  of  Akim-Ashanti,  lies  on  a  headstream  of  the  Upper  Prah, 
where  it  has  replaced  the  now  riiiuod  town  of  Diri/'aiim  in  the  Okwahu  uplands. 
Here  also  are  the  picturesque  towns  of  Wrasn  in  flto  wooded  hillv  districts  between 
the  Prah  and  Volta  basins. 

East  of  Cape  Coast  follow  the  seajwrts  of  Anamahii,  Koromanfin,  Akrmfo  or 
Salt-Pomi,  so  nanu^d  from  the  neighbouring  salines,  Wiiinchnh  (Siiupa),  and  90 
miles  from  Cape  Coast,  the  important  town  of  Accra  (Xkran  or  Ga),  commanded 
by  Fort  James.  Since  187;)  the  old  Danish  citadel  of  Chmtiamhovij  has  been  the 
official  capital  of  the  British  possessions,  but  Accra  is  the  chief  centre  of  European 
life,  and  the  governor  resides  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  fort,  which  was  nmch 
damaged  by  the  earthquake  of  18G2.     Christiansborg,  which  presents  the  appear- 


Kjt^tim 


l"P 


ToroURArilY  OF  TUH  GOLD  COAST. 


'ir. 


>i 


uto  the  chiel' 

of    the    I'lilll, 

notion  of  the 
he  chiefs  of 
ies. 

numferonic, 
•hiet'  westeru 
11  of  seventy 
ing  (jnarters 
t  the  time  of 
:i  vilhifyes  in 
trade  routes 
ine  with  two 

;  of  I)u(U'assi 
Is  the  noi'th- 
thc  precious 
'S  and  oilier 
res  and  royal 
dead  bodies 
ken  place  in 

idinp;  to  the 
juering  race. 
Hqxniita,  and 
idoned  at  the 
j  as  Cumassi, 

3er  Prah  and 
(NKurtflm)  or 
e  great  cities 
md  prohahly 
:  miles  round 
Upper  Prah, 
ahu  uplands, 
riots  between 

n,  Akn)i/i>  or 
ipa),  and  90 
,  commanded 
has  been  the 
of  European 
ch  was  much 
)  the  appear- 


ance of  an  imposing  feudal  castle,  contains  vast  cisterns  for  the  supply  of  the 
<:  mtLsou  and  shipping.  In  the  vicinity  the  liasle  missi(maries  have  founded  a 
technical  school,  where  are  trained  the  best  artisans  on  the  whole  seaboard  between 
yicrra-ljcone  and  the  Gaboon. 

Accra  is  the  starting-point  of  several   routes  for  the  inteiior,  and  it  is  now 

Fig.  101). — FiioM  Af(.R.i  TO  THE  Sa.natouium  of  Anorni 
Seal/;  1  :  ,'11.'>.(KI(). 


0  fo  32 
Feet. 


Depths. 


32tnS0 
Feet. 


RO  Feet  nnd 
upwurdg. 


r>  Jlileii. 


proposed  to  connect  it  by  rail  with  Kpoixj,  on  the  bend  of  the  Volta,  50  miles 
distant.  Some  "H  miles  to  the  north  lies  the  little  health-resort  of  Ahnri  [Ahinir), 
founded  by  the  Pasle  mission,  amid  a  forest  of  fruit  trees  over  l,;^(tO  feet  above 
sea-level.  AkropoiKj,  former  capital  of  the  Akwapem  state,  serves  also  as  a  sana- 
torium for  the  whites  and  a  centre  of  instruction  for  the  natives. 


f^ 


252 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Between  Accra  and  the  Volta  lie  tlie  little  fishing  villages  of  Tckni,  Pntmpmm, 
Bi(i  NiiKjo  {Firtli'mhonj),  and  a  few  other.s  huvied  amidst  the  eoeo-palnis  here  fring- 
ing the  cnast.  The  natives  are  said  to  liave  often  collected  gold  on  a  I'eef  near  the 
shore,  hut  ihe  precions  metal  is  revealed  only  at  certain  feasts  and  through  the 
intercession  ol'  a  potent  fetish. 

The  Volta  basin,  which  reaches  inland  far  beyond  the  Ilritish  possessions, 
contains  some  trading  centres  visited  by  the  ^loliammedans  of  tlie  Niger  for  the 
purcliase  of  the  coast  produci"  and  l']iiro])ean  wares  introduced  cspocialiy  through 
liie  Assini  and  Kiujabo  routes.  Bontiihii,  on  the  Tin  in  (lyaman  ((jlaman),  a  con- 
federacv  of  seventeen  "  kinii'doms,"  was  visited  for  the  first  time  bv  I.onsdale  in 
1SS2.  Since  the  fall  of  Cuinassi  it  has  become  a  thriving  ])lace,  dealing  ciiietly  in 
gold  dust  and  local  cotton  fabrics,  and  inhabited  mainly  by  Wangaras,  or  Moham- 
medan Mandingaiis.  In  the  valley  of  the  Kong,  five  days  farther  north,  has  been 
founded  the  new  capital,  JJini/m,  in  the  Mandingan  territory  between  the  Niger 
and  Volta  basins. 

In  IS84,  IJrandon  Kirl)y  reached  Qndiifdnipoh  {Kufampo),  the  TintiiijHili  of  the 
Mussulmans,  a  city  situated  on  a  southern  affluent  of  the  Upper  Volta,  70  miles 
north  of  Cumassi.  At  that  time  this  great  emporium  contained  nearly  forty 
thousand  inhabitants,  natives  of  every  country  between  Sierra-Leone  and  Lake 
Tsad,  all  living  in  separate  communities  under  th(>ir  respective  chiefs.  The 
province  of  Korauza,  between  (iuautampoh  and  the  Ashanti  state,  has  also  received 
numerous  innnigrants  from  the  unsettle!  districts  in  the  south.  During  a  long 
period  of  peace  it  has  bec:>nie  a  pi()Si)erou>  country,  studded  with  populous  villages 
and  doing  a  profitable  export  trade  in  kola-nuts. 

Atcohii  [Atdhiiobit),  lying  (m  a  grassy  plain  watered  by  the  headstreams  of  the 
Poro  and  Scne,  afflueuts  of  the  Volta,  is  capital  of  the  "kingdom  "  of  Brong.  It 
appears  to  have  been  formerly  a  very  large  place,  and  still  comprises  several 
(puirters  coiniected  by  avenues  of  shady  trees  and  surrounded  by  heaps  of  grass- 
grown  ruins  Its  decay  is  due  to  the  closure  of  the  two  trade  routes  connecting 
Cumassi  with  Salaga,  and  by  which  gold  and  kola-nuts  were  formerly  exported  to 
North  Sudan. 

S(tl<i(jn,  first  visited  in  187o  by  Bonnat,  although  much  reduced,  is  still  a  con- 
siderable centre  of  trade,  with  a  population  reduced  from  twenty  thousand  in  1877 
to  ten  thousand  in  188").  The  suppression  of  the  slave  trade  all  along  the  seaboard 
has  ruined  the  Halaga  dealers  in  hunuiu  flesh,  and  at  present  the  staple  exi)orts  are 
cattle  and  kola-nuts.  The  town  has  an  Arab  appearance  with  its  moscpies  and 
schools,  its  tanneries,  weaving,  goldsmiths'  work,  and  other  industries,  all  carried 
on  as  in  North  Africa,  and  the  products  exposed  in  the  same  way  for  sale  in  the 
bazaars. 

Some  uO  miles  to  the  north-cast,  and  also  in  the  valley  of  a  northern  affluent  of 
the  Volta.  stand  Ji'idH  (  YriKli,  Yaiidd,  Yciir),  anotlier  1iirg<"  trading  place  and 
capital  of  Dagomba,  a  great  kingdom  which  stretches  northwards  to  the  IMandingan 
territory  in  the  direction  of  the  Niger.  Hut  the  tiade  of  Jendi  seems  to  have  been 
affected    bv   the    sanie   causes    that    have    reduced   that  of   Salaga.       At   pieseut 


TOl'OOUAl'lIY  or  THE  GOLD  COAST. 


258 


PrittnprKtn, 
lu'io  i'ring- 
'C't'  near  the 
hrough  the 

|)().SS(>S.Sl'()TlS, 

iffor  for  tlio 
liy  tliroujjli 

lilll),   il   I'OU- 

Ldiisdiilo  in 
j>;  cliicHy  in 
or  Molui lu- 
ll, has  been 

iij)o/i  of  the 
I,  70  miles 
early  forty 
and  Lake 
nei's.  The 
Iso  r(>ceive(l 
iufj  a  lonjj- 
oils  villagi-s 

rains  of  the 
Rrong.     It 

ises   several 

ps  of  grass- 
eonnecting 

Dxported  to 

still  a  con- 
and  ill  1877 
he  seaboard 

ex])orts  are 
ios(|iies  and 

all  carried 
'  sale  in  the 

1  nfHuent  of 
r  placR  and 
^landingan 
0  have  been 
\t   present 


the  chief  town  in  the  middle  Vulta  region  is  h'fr,  till  recently  a  nierc  subml) 
of  Kraki/c  (Karati,  Krar/ii),  which  has  retained  the  rank  of  a  capital.  Krakye, 
which  stands  on  a  bluff  200  feet  high  opjxisito  the  Scnc  coiiflueuce  witii  the  \'(»lta, 
is  a  fetish  city,  whose  tutelar  deity,  the  Deiite  or  Odent*',  dwells  in  a  neighbouring 
cave  shaded  by  a  sacred  grove  where  the  oracle  is  consulted  by  votari(>s  fidin  all 
quarters.  The  high-priest  of  the  tcnijde,  the  most  <listinguished  person  in  the 
country,  is  at  the  head  of  a  confederacy  of  petty  states  formed   since  the  disniem- 

Fig.   1  111.  — AllKTIKI    MOUNTAI.VS. 
Scale  I  :  2»),U(XI. 


•^  '*/•-. 


It,,     - 


K'"r  --//'■  :f^''Mrif\.  ,*v-."'  '•*''-'^'" 


%.»-^'    ^ 


* 


^ — '     II  %  \  ,    '  ?  '  \ 


^^  ^C^  ^'i 


O'*'. 


0"au  W?st   oT  ureenwich 


(i  Miles, 


bennent  of  the  Ashanti  empire.  But  the  fetish  and  this  potentate  appears  to  have 
recently  lost  some  of  their  iiiHuonco,  the  Mohammedan  traders  having  gradually 
become  the  real  masters  of  the  hind. 

Kvery  town  in  this  region  has  its  fetish,  whose  power  increases  or  diminishes 
with  that  of  the  eommuuity  itself.  The  genius  of  Wuropoug,  w^ho  is  enthroned  on 
the  table-mountain  of  Sia,  some  00  miles  south-east  of  Krakye,  is  an  evil  .spirit  who 
demands  human  victims,  and  to  whcmi  a  man  was,  till  roecntly,  immolated  every 
year.  To  the  north-cast  lies  the  extensive  but  thinly  peopled  land  of  Hiisso,  that 
is,  "  highlands,"  whose  two  capitals,  Siodt  and  Dademsi,  have  each  a  very  powerful 


pp 


&r^^ii-ki:^-'^^:.  i 


Ii 


■I'A 


WEST  AFRICA. 


protcH'tiiipf  fetish.     Novertholrss,  tlirco-fourths  of  the  inhabitants  are  said  to  he 
afflicted  with  ^oitn>. 

The  AtVani,  which  joins  the  Volta  above  the  govfjes,  flows  throngh  an  almost 
uninliabited  region.  I5ut  on  the  water])arting  between  its  l)asin  and  the  sources 
of  the  I'luh  stands  the  pictiires(|ue  city  of  AMifi,  capital  of  the  kiugfhnn  chosen 


m 


V\^.   HI.-    MoL'TItS    OF   DIE    V'OI.TA. 
Sonle  1  :  78,000. 


0°M 


East    of  Greenwich 


0°43' 


Depths. 


Sands  exposed 
at  low  wiiter. 


OtolO 
Feet. 


10  to  32 
Feet. 


32  Feet  nnd 
upwards. 


3,300  Yiird". 


by  the  Basle  missionaries  as  the  centre  of  their  stations.  Nearly  opposite  the 
Afrani  conHiieucc  lies  Pcki,  capital  of  a  confederacy  including  several  towns,  such 
as  the  large  Mohanunedau  markets  of  Kpntidn,  Atn/roe,  Aratime,  the  triple  city  of 
Anmn,  and  over  a  hundred  villages  on  the  eastern  watershed  of  the  Volta  basin. 
Farther  down  follow  Akuarnu,  former  ally  of  Ashanti,  and  like  it  noted  for  its 


^ 


TRADK  OF  THE  OOIJ)  COAST. 


255 


Q  siiid  to  l)e 

h  an  almost 

the  sources 

•(lorn  cliosen 


A 


opposite  the 
towns,  such 
triple  city  of 
Volta  basin, 
lotccl  for  its 


8aiif»uinarv  "customs,"  and  Kpoiuj,  favourably  situated  on  a  fjieut  ben  1  of  the 
Volta,  which  is  here  navigable  and  connected  by  a  trade  ro\ite  with  Accra. 
Kpong  is  tlie  port  of  the  little  state  of  Krobo,  whose  capital,  Odiiiiuissi,  lies  on  tlie 
Accra  route  at  the  foot  of  an  isolated  hill  rising  S'JO  feet  sheer  above  the  sur- 
rounding plain.  On  this  acropolis  and  sacred  mountain  of  the  natinn  nearly  all 
the  Krobo  girls  are  educated  for  si.\  years  under  fetish  jmests  and  priestesses. 

Helow  Krol)o  foUow,  on  the  right  side  of  the  V(dta.  the  towns  of  Jhiffor, 
. I, r/r/rff/v,  governed  by  a  fetish  priest,  and  near  the  bar  the  i)orts  of  J^/r/  {A(/(ffi) 
and  Riverside  (Adu/o).  To  overawe  the  lawless  populations  on  this  part  of  the 
coast,  the  cob)nial  Government  has  placed  a  strong  garrison  in  Quctfah  (h'ffn),  the 
old  Danish  Fort  PrindHcmtee)!,  near  ( 'ape  Saint  Taul,  between  the  sea  and  lagoon. 

AfiUicri/ruuE. — iNnrsTiiiF.s.— Tkade. — Admixistr  vnox. 

After  long  industrial  and  commercial  stagnation,  the  coast  populations  have 
lately  made  rapid  progress,  despite  the  forebodings  of  the  proprietois  whose  slav(>s 
were  emancipated  and  whose  "pawns"  (debtors)  were  released  after  the  Ashanti 
war.  The  outcry  raised  by  the  spectacle  of  soldiers  i)urchased  as  captives  and  of 
thousands  of  enslaved  female  porters  accompanying  the  Uritish  troops,  residted  in 
the  formal  abolition  of  slavery  in  1H74.  Since  then  the  natives  work  more 
willingly  for  Kuropeans,  and  the  extent  of  cidtivated  land  has  considerably 
increased.  In  many  places  the  palm  forests  have  been  replaced  by  regular 
plantations,  and  more  care  is  now  bestowed  on  the  coffee  and  tobacco  crops.  The 
cacao  and  other  alimentary  plants  have  been  introduced  from  America  ;  attention 
is  given  to  the  production  of  caoutchouc,  especially  in  the  Krobo  country,  while 
the  natives  of  Krebi  already  raise  large  quantities  of  cotton. 

The  industries  have  also  been  developed,  thanks  to  the  numerous  artisans 
trained  by  the  Basle  missionaries  and  to  the  ^lohammedan  craftsmen  who  have 
settled  in  all  the  towns  along  the  banks  of  the  Volta,  and  who  already  occupy  a 
whole  cpiarter  in  Accra.  But  jewellery,  formerly  the  staple  industry,  received  a 
great  blow  by  the  destruction  of  Cumassi.  Amongst  the  treasures  taken  from  the 
King  of  Ashanti  and  rinioved  to  England  may  be  admired  ncany  remarkable 
f)bjects,  such  as  bracelets,  rings,  gold  and  coral  ornaments,  cha.sed  metal  jjlates.  and 
fantastic  animals  whose  forms  remotely  suggest  those  of  the  old  Egyptian 
jewellery. 

Notwithstanding  the  name  of  the  country,  palm-oil  rather  than  gold  forms  the 
chief  article  of  export.  Hence,  like  the  Bonny  and  ("alabar  estuarii's,  the  creeks 
along  the  Gold  Coast  also  take  the  name  of  "  oil-rivers."  The  imports  are  mainly 
restricted  to  cotton  goods  and  brandy,  the  chief  aim  of  Kuropean  "  civilisation  " 
apparently  being  to  clothe  and  intoxicate  the  luitives.  In  the  course  of  ten  years 
the  whole  trade  of  the  Gold  Coast  gradually  rose  from  t;040,()()()  to  i'l,:>0(),00(f. 

The  administration  of  the  CJold  Coast,  which  now  includes  Lagos  on  the 
Slave  Coast,  is  entrusted  to  a  governor  appointed  by  the  (iu(>en,  and  assisted  by 
a   legislative   and   executive   council   composed   of    the   chief    functionaries   and 


w  m,  m 


^ 


250 


WEST  AFHICA. 


FiUropoan  traders.  Alter  tlic  AMhuiiti  war  tho  Beat  of  j^ovoriiineiit  waw  iTinnvcd 
from  Cape  Coant  to  Christ iansborg- Accra.  Kach  colonial  district  is  administered 
liv  a  majjistiate,  and  the  tribal  thiol's  arc  gradually  bciii}^  transformed  to  justices 
of  the  peace  with  ])o\ver  to  settle  all  minor  matters  according  to  local  usage,  while 
affairs  of  iiiiixirtancc  arc  referred  to  the  Knglish  court. 

Tli(>  military  forces  consist  chicHy  of  Fantis,  Haussas,  and  Kroomcn.  Sevi'ral 
uns\icci'ssful  attempts  have  been  made  to  eidist  troo])s  in  the  states  north  of 
Ashanti,  tho  natives  of  which  regions  refuse  to  migrate  towards  the  seaboard. 
The  revenue  is  derived  exclusively  from  imposts  levied  on  imports  in  tho  twenty- 
five  coast  towns  opened  to  foreign  trade. 

The  colonial  administration,  which  is  slowly  displacing  that  of  the  tribal 
chiefs,  has  in  no  way  modified  the  limits  of  the  annexed  states  now  reduced  to 
provinces.  Nor  does  it  interfere  directly  in  the  alfairs  of  the  conterminous  statt>s 
beyond  occasionally  sending  visitors  or  agents,  whose  advice  is  usually  accepted. 
Formerly  all  the  Upper  Volta  basin  formed  part  of  the  Ashanti  empii-e;  but  these 
agents  have  pursued  a  policy  of  political  disineml)erment,  and  numerous  so-called 
"  independent  "  kingdoms  have  been  established  in  the  regions  coming  within  the 
influence  of  the  Hriti^h  authorities  Hut  farther  inland  there  .still  exist  some 
alwolutely  inde])endont  states,  such  as  (Jyamaii,  Dagomba,  and  IJusso. 

In  the  Appendix  is  given  a  table  of  the  colonial  di.stricts  and  petty  states 
conterminous  to  the  (lold  Coast,  together  with  theii  chief  towns  and  absolute  or 
ajtproximate  populations. 

Tm:  Si.Avi;  Coasi. — Tooo,  Popo,  A.itDv.  Badaokv,  IjAoos,  Daiiomev,  Yokuha. 

The  section  of  the  African  seaboard  lying  between  the  Volta  and  Niger 
deltas  describes  an  extremely  regular  -slightly  curved  arc  of  a  circle  masking  an 
inner  sliore-linc,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  intervening  higotms  and  l)ack- 
waters.  To  this  region,  wa.shed  by  the  Biglit  of  IJenin,  still  clings  tho  sad  name 
of  tho  Shivo  Coast,  a  reminiscence  of  the  traffic  in  "  black  ivory  "  which  flourished 
on  the  shores  of  these  cursed  lagoons  from  the  first  years  of  the  I'ortuguese 
discovery  (h)wn  to  tho  second  half  of  tlie  ])res(>nt  century.  Nowhere  else  were  tho 
sltivers  able  to  conduct  their  operations  in  more  open  dcHance  of  the  cruisers,  'i'ho 
beach  is  defended  by  formidable  lircakers,  where  the  most  skilful  pilots  alone  can 
dare  to  venture ;  the  mouths  of  the  estuaries  are  invisible  from  the  sea,  and  the 
inner  bays  offer  a  thousand  secret  inlets  on  tho  densely  wooded  siiores.  in  which  it 
was  easy  to  conceal  the  human  merchandise.  The  caravans  of  dealers  from  the 
banks  of  the  Niger,  the  troops  escorting  gangs  of  captives  forwarded  by  the  kings 
of  D.diomey  and  Yoruba,  wore  able  to  consign  their  victims  under  the  shelter  of 
tho  gloomy  forests  without  exposing  themselves  on  the  open  seaboard. 

But  while  all  the  Western  nations  were  glad  to  have  a  share  in  this  profitable 
business,  no  foreign  power  except  Portugal  made  any  official  settlements  on  this 
coast  before  the  year  18.)1,  when  tho  English  occupied  Lagos  and  made  it  the 
headquarters  of  their  operaliims  for  the  suppression  of  the  traffic  in  the  Bight  of 


ri-„  •  '^-x^  4«„  ,ms^;:9r.\ 


TIIK  SLAVE  COAST. 


or,' 


nis  romovocl 
(liiiinisttTod 
I  to  justices 


isiige,  wliile 


11.  Several 
es  lit  nth  of 
10  soiihoard. 
the  twenty- 

f  the  tribal 
r  rcfliu'Cfl  to 
inous  states 
ly  accepted. 
> ;  but  the.s(» 
us  so-calh'd 
^  withiu  the 
exist   some 


IJeiiin.  In  IHIVA  I'lance  purchased  the  territory  of  I'orto-Xovo,  which  was  nuum 
t.t'ter  al»aii(h>ned,  and  a^'aiu  occupied  by  her  in  18S;j.  .Ne.\t  year  the  <  ieruiaiis  looU 
possession  of  the  Togo  district  iniinedialely  (>ast  of  the  Mritisli  territory  nu  the 
(told  « 'oast,  so  that  at  present  this  seaboard  is  shared  by  four  I'owcrs,  includin<,r 
I'ortugal,  whicli  administers  the  piirt  of  the  coast  still  claimed  by  the  King  of 
Dahonu'y;  but  towards  the  interior  the  limits  of  the  res}»cctive  territories  are 
nowhere  accurately  determiiu'd. 

Few  tcavellers  have  ever  penetrat<>d  far  into  this  region,  except  towards  tin 
east  in  the  dire(;tion  of  the  Niger,  wluMetlu'  rctutes  of  explorers  intersect  each  other 
at  several  i)oints.  The  natural  limits  of  the  country  are  clearly  indicated  on  the 
west  by  Cape  St.  Taul  and  the  lagoons  fed  by  the  watt>rs  of  the  N'olta,  on  th(> 
iiorlh-west  and  north  by  the  uplands  which  form  u  continuation  of  the  Akwapem 
ranges,  on  the  north-east  and  east  Ity  tlie  divide  between  the  Niger  basin  ajid  the 
streams  flowing  to  tlu'  Atlantic.  The  whol(>  region  nuiy  be  approximately  estimated 
at  about  (i'J,(H)0  scpiare  miles,  with  u  total  po|)ulation  of  probably  not  less  than 
three  millions.  Hut  no  trustworthy  returns  have  yet  been  made  except  for  thf 
Hritish  ])()ssessions  of  Images  and  IJadagry,  which  in  an  area  of  7.*  square  miles  hafi 
a  settled  population  of  ever  seventy- five  thousand. 


petty  states 
.  absolute  or 


:v,  Yoiiuu.v. 

and  Niger 
masking  an 
i  and  back- 
le  sad  name 
h  flourished 

Tortuguese 
Ise  were  the 
lisers.  The 
ta  alone  can 
;ea,  and   the 

in  which  it 
IS  from  the 
)y  the  kings 
le  shelter  of 

lis  profitable 
•nts  on  this 
Tiade  it  the 
the  TUght  of 


I'livsK  \i.  Fi:  vn  i{i;s. — Rivkrs. 

From  the  sea  no  hills  are  anywhere  visibh>  beyond  the  slight  jjyramidal 
eminence  at  Jiadagry.  Large  tiud)er  is  also  rare,  nor  are  jiny  dunes  develoi)ed  on 
this  coast,  owing  doubtless  to  the  north-east  winds,  which  carry  seawards  the  sands 
washed  up  by  the  waves.  But  in  the  interior,  Ixn'ond  the  intricate  coast  lagoons, 
llu>  land  rolls  away  in  gentle  inidulaticms  from  '200  to  '2'M)  feet  high  in  the 
direction  of  the  iidand  plateaux.  North  of  the  isolated  mass,  '.i.7()(»  feet  high, 
forming  the  culminating  point  of  Dahomey,  the  Bu.sso  ranges  rise  to  considerable 
altitudes,  according  to  Skertchley  terminating  in  the  Mahi  country  with  jjcaks 
over  G,700  fe(>t  high,  falling  rapidly  towards  the  northern  stepp.  ,s,  and  descending 
in  terraces  on  the  southern  side.  From  a  summit  ascended  by  this  exjilorer  tin 
ran<n\  apparently  the  highest  in  Africa  south  of  the  Atlas  and  west  of  Abyssinia, 
was  distiuctlv  seen  stretching  away  in  the  direction  of  the  Volta.  Some  of  the 
chief  crests  consist  of  granitic  domes,  some  of  colunniar  basalt  pyramids,  and  others 
again  of  trap  formations  piled  up  like  frowning  fortresses  or  else  resembling 
isolated  craters.  In  one  of  the  valleys  were  seen  accumulations  of  debris  present- 
ing all  tlu>  characters  of  moraines,  and  hire  were  also  noticed  rocks  striated  by  ice. 
(Skertchley,  Dahomey  nx  If  Is.) 

None  of  the  .streams  flowing  seawards  between  the  Volta  and  the  Niger  arc  of 
large  size,  their  parallel  basins  being  everywhere  confined  within  narrow  limits. 
During  the  dry  season  most  of  them  fail  to  reach  the  sea,  discharging  into  the 
coast  lagoons  without  being  able  to  force  a  passage  through  the  intervening  beach. 
But  after  the  rains  the  overflow  of  the  lagoons  finds  an  exit,  breaking  the  shore- 
line now  at  one  point  now  ut  another.     The  channel  ut  Lagos,  forming  the  outlet 


Il'l 


ll 


m 


m 


2Sd 


WKST  A  I'll  K  A. 


lor  a  cniisidcniMt'  cciiist  .stn-am  and  for  lnj^fxtiin  ftd  hy  si'vtnil  atHuciits,  alono 
rcinaiiiH  ojm'Ii  fhi-dUffhoiit  fhi-  yrar.  The  river  Ojrim,  thr  lar>j<'«t  of  thcHt-  aflliicnts, 
risoM  prol)al)ly  sniiu"  1M(I  miles  inlainl,  and  ucfivt's  nnnuTous  irilmtarics  hrforo 
leaving  du'  uplands.  Tlic  (iiiat  I'npo  ('lianml  is  also  pcnfrally  op(?i,  wliilc  at 
otiicr  poiiifH  flic  natives  fr('(pK'ntly  cut  passa^fcs  fur  their  bouts  between  the  lago«iiis 
and  the  sea. 

Most    maps   rcjircsent    the   To<^o  district   as  almost   entirely  occupied  by  Lake 

I'iif    ll'J.  — Shoiik.Line  V.mt  ok  Lacios. 

Sriile  1   •  78"  imO. 


Cast    of  breenwlch 


i'^'O 


DopthK. 


Otnnt 
Fret. 


fl4to640 
loot. 


r4"  Kopt  <\ni 
iiliwiiids 


.  12  Mile*. 


Avon,  an  inland  sea  1,200  square  miles  in  extent,  and  so  called  from  the  EiifjHsh 
Vessel  which  surveyed  this  coast  in  lS4(t.  Hut  the  size  of  the  Ilaho,  as  the  natives 
call  it,  from  its  chief  influent,  has  been  strangely  exaggerated,  for  it  is  scarcely 
more  than  6  miles  h)ng  in  any  directicm.  The  Xokhwe,  or  Lake  Denham,  west  of 
Porto-Novo,  is  also  much  smaller  than  it  appears  on  the  maps,  while  the  largest 
of  all  these  coast  lagoons  is  Ikoradu,  which  with  its  numerous  ramiHeations  has 
given  the  Portuguese  name  of  Lagos,  or  the  "  Lakes,"  to  the  town  at  its  seaward 


icnts,  aloiK! 
«'  iitiliU'ntN, 
rics  bt'l'oro 
n,  wliilc  at 
the  lii^iHiiis 

(1  l)v  liuko 


i; 


^6* 

HS  BO' 


ho  Kiifrlish 
tlii>  natives 
is  scarcely 
1111,  west  of 
the  hir{?e8t 
catioiis  has 
its  seaward 


THK  SI,AVE  COAST.  260 

ciitnmce.      These   hifjooiis  t'onn   a  c<iiitinu<nis  wi.tii  tvay,  whicli   niij^ht   ho  easily 


I 


made  navigable  all  the  way  from  the  mouth  of  the  Volta  to  the  Niger  delta. 


^^^^^0m^s!i^' 


2C0 


WEST  AFRICA. 


i?:| 


W I 


11 


M 


Stoiunci's  iilroiidy  ply  for  a  distiiiico  of  about  40  milos  botwcoii  Badagry  and  Ln<^os, 
and  in  1S7()  ouo  of  these  ascended  to  the  nei<ild)oiirhood  of  Aboiney,  by  the  river 
Wliemi  (0\v(i),  which  has  a  mean  depth  of  18  feet,  and  falls  into  Lake  Denham 
north  of  the  Kotonu  channel. 

In  its  flora  und  finina  the  Slave  Const  forms  a  simple  continuation  of  the  Gold 
Coast.  Its  climate,  witli  a  mean  timperaturc  of  about  7S  F.  and  two  dry  and 
two  wet  scasDus,  is  regarded  as  the  most  salubi-ious  on  the  whole  seaboard  between 
the  Senegal  and  the  Congo.  Euro])eans  have  hitherto  esca])i'd  the  attacks  of  such 
epidemics  as  yellow  fever,  small-pox,  or  ty[)hus  ;  but  thiy  have  still  to  dread  the 
marsh  fevers,  especially  during  the  early  days  of  their  residence  in  the  country. 
The  most  dangerous  period  is  the  close  of  the  heavy  rainy  season,  when  the 
ground  reeks  and  the  atmosphere  is  charged  with  miasmatic  exhalations. 


Tnhahitants. 

Notwithstanding  certain  dialectic,  dilferences,  the  natives  of  the  Slave  Coast 
present  marked  affinities  to  iheir  Fanti  and  Ashanti  neighbours.  Apart  from  the 
Miuas,  who  dwelt  formerly  W(>st  of  the  Volta,  all  the  po])ulations  between  that 
river  and  the  Ogun  belong  to  the  Ewe  (Evvhe,  Azighe)  family,  from  whom  the 
whole  region  takes  the  name  of  Kwenie,  or  "  Land  of  the  Ewe."  The  land  west 
of  the  Ogun  is  held  by  the  Yorubas  (Yaribas),  hcie  coUectivoh'  known  as  Nagos. 

The  Jmvc  appear  to  form  five  distinct  linguistic  groups  ;  the  Anlo  (Anglo  or 
Anglawa)  (m  the  Gold  Coast  frontier;  the  Krepi,  of  Anfwe  speech,  north  and 
north-east  of  the  Anglo  ;  the  Jeji,  of  Ajuda  speech,  east  of  the  Anglo  and  Krepi ; 
the  natives  of  Dahomey,  in  the  interior  ;  lastly,  in  the  extreme  north,  the  tribes 
speaking  the  Mahi  or  Makhi,  purest  of  all  the  Ewe  huiguages. 

All  the  Ewe  peoples  are  of  tall  stature  and  well-proportioned,  witli  more 
regular  features  and  fairer  complexion  than  the  ^^^)lof8.  Many  of  tlie  natives  of 
the  interior  are  noted  for  their  yellowish  colour  and  red  hair,  probably  a  sort  of 
albinoism  rather  than  the  result  of  crossings  with  Europiums.  Others  again  on 
the  west  coast,  collectively  known  as  ^linas,  are  descended  from  Negroes  and  half- 
castes  imported  from  Brazil,  and  in  the  public  estimation  these  take  the  foremost 
rank  for  piiysic  il  strength,  moral  qualities,  and  lov(^  of  freedom.  Tlicy  are  also 
active  tiaders,  who  compete  successfully  with  Furopeans,  and  who  by  their  family 
alliances  witli  the  initives  are  steadily  acquiring  a  numerical  preponderance  over 
all  other  foreigners.  Lender  the  influence  of  this  new  element  the  old  etlinical 
divisions  are  gradually  disapiu'aring.  The  family  names  of  Souza,  Almeida, 
Andrada,  and  Albuquerque  have  become  very  common,  and  Portuguese  has  already 
become  a  rival  of  English  as  the  current  language  for  international  relations. 
Near  the  Gold  Coast  English  prevails,  but  Portuguese  is  chiefly  sjwkeu  at  Ajuda 
and  taught  in  the  local  schools. 

The  most  powerful  branch  of  the  Ewe  group  are  the  Fons,  now  known  as 
Daumas  or  Didiomeys,  from  the  kingdom  founded  by  them  to  the  north  of  Ajuda 
in  the  first  half  of  the  seventeenth  centurj-.     Although  proud  of  their  warlike 


TNII.\151TANTS  OF  TUB  SLAVE  COAST. 


261 


iind  Lagos, 
•y  tlu'  river 
ke  Denham 

if  the  (iold 
wo  dry  and 
rd  between 
:;ks  of  such 
•  dread  the 
lie  count  ry. 
when   the 

3. 


•51ave  Coast 

rt  from  the 

tween  that 

whom  the 

3  hmd  west 

as  Na<ros. 

(Angk*  or 

north  and 

lud  Krepi  ; 

,  the  tribes 

witli  more 
3  natives  of 
ly  a  sort  of 
rs  again  on 
s  and  half- 
le  foremost 
ley  are  also 
heir  family 
LTance  over 
kl  ethniciil 
,  Ahneida, 
lias  already 
1  relations. 
n  at  Ajuda 

known  as 
1  of  Ajuda 
eir  warlike 


deeds  and  conquests,  the  Funs  are  distinguished  by  great  intelligence  and  a  remark- 
able facility  for  acquiring  foreign  languages.  According  to  IJioca's  incasurcnicnts, 
tlu'V  take  a  foremost  place  amongst  the  races  of  mankind  for  cranial  capacity. 
Nevertheless,  for  the  abject  slavery  of  its  subjects  and  the  tyranny  of  its  rulers 
the  kiimdoin  of  Daliomey  bears  a  striking  resembhinee  to  that  of  Ashau^i. 

The  sovereign  is  a  god;  his  power  is  limitless,  the  life  and  fortunes  of  his 
subjects  are  at  his  mercy  ;  he  is  master  of  all  the  living,  heir  of  all  ihe  dead. 
iMn'merly  infants  were  removed  from  their  mothers  and  brought  up  in  other 
families  in  order  to  prevent  the  people  from  forming  any  tics  of  allVction  e.\.'cpt 


V'l'^.  HI.-  l.NitAmTA.vTs  OF  Till;  Sl.vvk  C'dast 

Scale  1    :   l.jdii.lKio. 


Depths. 


Oto  lO) 
Feet. 


160  to  U60 
Feet. 


GfiO  Feet  :iiid 
upwards. 


00  Miles. 


towards  their  sovereign.  Being  exempt  from  the  ills  that  other  mortals  endure, 
this  potentate  is  supposed  to  need  neither  food  nor  drink,  and  was  till  recently 
regai'ded  almost  as  an  invisible  spirit,  the  delusion  being  fostered  by  th(>  practice 
of  taking  his  meals  apart  and  hearing  petitions  from  behind  a  screen.  IK- main- 
tains an  armv  of  "  amazons  "  commanded  by  the  (/odd,  or  queen,  who  enjoys  the 
light  of  life  and  death  within  the  limits  of  the  harem,  and  whose  sons  are  alone 
recognised  as  royal  princes.  Some  of  these  women  are  state  dignitaries,  and 
when  royalty  condescends  to  take  counsel,  his  wives  consult  with  the  iiu'ikjo,  or 
prime  minister,  and  other  high  officials.  The  ama/ons  rival  their  male  eom- 
pauions  in  arms  in  prowess,  contempt  of  death,  uud  cold-blooded  cruelty.      Their 


h  i 


■  l:w. 


m 

!t»|i  if 


III 


iMi 


\\ 
ill 


It 


202 


WEST  AFiaCA. 


war  flanct.s  aiv  petfornu'd  with  a  precision  unequalled  Ity  the  hest-traiued  hallet 
eorjjs,  and  Skeitchley  (U^serihes  one  of  these  military  displays  with  dances,  songs, 
and  sacrifices,  whicli  lasted  no  less  than  sixteen  hours. 

Human  victims  were  formerly  innnolated  wholesale  at  the  graves  of  the  kiii" 
and  powerful  chiefs,  and,  as  in  India,  wives  often  volunteered  to  join  their 
hnshands  in  the  other  life.  This  continual  How  of  Idood  had  accustonu>d  the 
])cople  of  Dahomey  to  scenes  of  incredihle  cruelty.  Travellers  describe  in  detail 
the  massacres,  tortures,  crucifixions,  and  urrangenuMil  of  the  dea<l  bodies  in  artistic 
groups  along  the  avenues.  One  of  the  vcarlv  ceromonies  c<msiste(l  in  filliusr  a 
great  reservoir  left  open  for  those  who  preferred  to  counnit  suicide;  while  the 
ferrible  Draconic  laws  always  supplied  victims  in  abundance  for  the  national 
"customs."  (.'annibalism  also  was  recently  practi,sed,  the  ijodies  of  the  slaugh- 
tered being  roasted  aiul  devoured  smoking  hot. 

At  the  sanu>  time  by  most  of  the  natives  the  j)rospect  of  a  violent  end  was 
little  dri'aded.  The  belief  in  innnor!ality  was  so  absolute,  thai  to  them  death 
seemed  a  nuTc  passage  from  the  shadow  of  a  dream  to  a  i-eal  and  everlasting  life. 
When  the  king,  "  coiisin  of  the  leopard,"  wished  to  hold  converse  with  his 
ancestry,  he  despatched  the  first  to  hand  as  an  envoy  t(»  the  far-off  world,  and 
the  kindred  of  tin-  dead  felt  highly  honoured  at  their  sovereign's  choice.  liut 
tlie  struggles  of  rival  creeds  for  supremacy  must  iiu'vitably  tend  to  weaken  this 
si)n])le  faith  in  an  after  life,  and  thus  enhance  respect  for  the  earthly  existence. 
The  boy  or  girl  formerly  sacrificed  at  every  grave  is  already  replaced  by  a  kid, 
and  tlie  wholesale  massacres  utteiuling  the  anniuil  customs  are  no  longer  regarded 
by  the  sovereijin  as  necessary  for  the  safeguarding  of  the  monarchv. 

The  exttnsive  region  lying  between  Dahomey,  the  Bight  of  Uenin,  and  the 
Niger  watershed,  is  peopled  by  the  llyos,  Iktus,  Kgbas,  Ycbus,  and  other  kindred 
tribes  collectively  known  as  Nagos,  or  else  Yorubas,  from  the  name  of  the  country 
and  the  current  speech.  They  differ  little  from  their  Kwe  neighbours,  presenting 
the  ordinary  type  of  the  coast  Negroes,  although  of  sonunvhat  lighter  complexion, 
with  less  prognathous  jaw,  aiul  thinner  lips.  Kach  tribe  is  distinguished  bv  a 
system  of  tattooing,  which  is  a  real  national  emblem  uniforndv  executed  on  everv 
individual.  All  travellers  describe  the  Yorubas  as  a  gentle,  kindly  i)eople, 
faithful  to  their  word,  extremely  docile,  artless  and  sincere,  and  ever  less  mindful 
of  injuries  than  of  favours.  On  the  frequented  highways  sheds  covered  with 
foliage  {(irojchx)  are  set  up  at  intervals  for  the  convenience  of  wayfarers,  who 
here  find  shelter,  water,  and  wine,  and  who,  if  so  niiiule  1,  may  deposit  a  few 
cowries  in  return. 

The  sociable  Yorubas  are  almost  everywhere  grouped  in  urban  communities, 
so  that  populous  towns  are  numerous  in  their  territory.  Kven  the  peasantry 
prefer  to  residi-  in  the  towns,  willingly  making  long  daily  walks  between  their 
homes  and  their  farms.  On  these  they  raise  large  (piantities  of  maize  and  yams, 
the  great  staples  of  food,  besides  millet,  manioc  (tapioca),  sweet  potatws,  pulse, 
ground-nuts,  various  species  of  vegetables,  bananas,  and  other  fruits.  Agriculture 
is  their  chief   industry,  and  they  display  great  skill  in  extracting  the  palm  wine 


.f!P^^  J.^J^ ' ■'V;,VmiC?^, ^^5'i'S-4?}v 


.;)^fi 


~1 


iW: 


IXIIAIUTAXT!^  OF  THE  SI.AVK  TOAST. 


2G3 


lied  l)iillet 
'08,  songs, 

the  kiiifi; 
jnin  tlu'ir 
l(iiiu-(l  the 
.'  in  detail 
in  artistic 

filliiif>:  a 
wliilo   tlic 

national 
ic  slaugh- 

cnd  was 
vm  flcath 
sting  life. 

with  his 
forld,  and 
c'f.  But 
aken  this 
oxistonre. 
bv  a  kid, 

regarded 

1,  and  the 
•r  kindred 
e  country 
•resonting 
tn|)lexion, 
ihod  by  a 
on  every 
y  jMiople, 
s  mindful 
3red  with 
rers,  who 
<it  u  tow 

niunities, 
peasantry 
een  their 
md  yams, 
ea,  pulse, 
^riculture 
ulni  wine 


from  the  litift/iid  rinif'nv,  which  they  climb  with  surprising  agility  by  nunuis  of 
a  rope  attached  to  the  stem  and  bnught  round  the  body,  slutting  it  up  or  down 
by  u  simple  movement  of  the  arm.      There  are  no  large  estates,  the   land  being 

Fig.  110. — A  Mohammedan  Youuba  Tkadeu. 


regarded  as  belonging  to  all  in  common,  or  rather  to  the  State  for  the  benefit  of 
all.  Hence  the  actual  cultivator  enjoys  the  fruits  of  his  labour,  and  when  ho 
ceases  to  work,  the  land  reverts  to  the  State,  beitig  then  at  the  disposition  of  the 
first  comer  willing  to  occupy  it. 


J.fe. 


^ 


fi 


tr  f 

[Ml 

i 


lii 


I 


iiH 


264  WEST  ArRK'A. 

The  Yonilms  arc  also  clover  urticans,  and  every  villajfe  has  its  potters,  smith'^, 

Fivr-  1  Hi.  — Txr.ANt)  SfKNEitv.  Si.avk  Coast. 


tanners,  saddlers,  weavers,  and  dyers.     They  make  their  own  agriciilturid  iniple- 


" *"^"^*** I' AVt*""""^*  '-T^r.'  -  .j*^ 


:'i?%v,«#sT-^,efsT,«!i«-:4=a?#;{V=s:«?Sa?»^^ 


TIIK  TOr.o  TKIJinTOHY. 


2(i.'» 


smiths, 


nients,  but  tlio  wliito  and  hliic  cottniis  tnnncrly  ('X]>iirti'(l  to  I'ruzil  liiivc  Ik-cti 
flriveii  out  of  tlic  niiirkol  by  ^^anchostcr  <j;oo  Is.  As  l)uil  Icrs  the  Yorubas  excel 
all  natives  of  At'i'ica,  soriu;  of  tlu-ir  ])alaces  coniprisinfj  as  uumy  as  tifty  ronuis. 
Tho  doors  and  frie/es  ot'  tho  veramlalis  are  ('iul)ellislied  with  earviuffs  represent  in ■/ 
scenes  of  war  or  tho  chase,  fantastic  animals  and  reliji^ious  symbils.  Thcv  ba\f 
a  s])ecial  veneration  for  the  furniture  made  of  sassa,  becaus«'  this  wood  often  <real<s 
and  moans,  es])ecially  ut  night.  Althou};li  una((|uainte(l  with  letters,  thev  are 
said  to  have  had  little  knotteil  cords  for  recordiu};  events,  like  tho  Peruvian 
(juii)]»o.s. 

Tlio  power  of  the  Yoruba  obbas,  or  hereditary  kinjrs,  is  limited  by  usaj>;o, 
while  each  town  has  its  semi-independent  chief,  appointed  by  the  soveroifrn.  and 
enjoyin;;  royid  prorop[ativcs.  Chiefs  and  jjovornors  alike  are  assisted  by  councils 
of  tho  notable.s,  and  on  ji-roat  onun'gencies  the  whole  people  are  occasionallv  sum- 
moned to  a  general  national  ussenibly.  The  authorities  are  also  held  in  check 
by  the  iihoiii,  a  ])o\verful  .secret  .society,  whoso  members  are  bound  together  liy 
.solemn  oaths.  They  are  at  once  judges  and  oxeculifiuors,  all  .sentences  l)eiiig 
carried  out  by  themselves. 

As  in  Dahomey,  the  kings  were  ffuniorly  followed  to  the  grave  by  n  ninnerous 
suite  of  ministers,  wonu'U,  and  slaves,  the  latter  massacred  by  force,  the  former 
j)olilely  invited  to  drink  the  poisoned  cup.  IJelicf  in  ghosts  is  universal,  and  the 
most  minute  procauticms  are  taken  to  prevent  the  return  of  departed  friend.s. 
Their  arms  are  buried  beyond  the  gates  of  the  city,  and  are  thus  c^nicealed  from 
the  owners  who  might  hapi)eii  to  return  at  night  from  the  other  world.  The 
bodies  of  children  are  thrown  away  in  the  forests,  all  premature  deaths  being 
ascribed  to  the  evil  spirits,  who  are  thus  circumvented. 

lint  the  old  nature-worship  has  been  greatly  modified  during  the  last  four 
hundred  years  by  the  inHuoiu-o  lM)th  of  the  Portuguese  and  of  the  Filani  (Kulahs), 
and  other  Moh.imme<lans  advancing  from  the  interior.  The  Obba-el-nrun,  or 
"King  of  Heaven,"  has  been  gradually  confounded  either  with  the  God  of  the 
Christians  or  the  AUah  of  tho  Mussulmans.  He  is  even  called  Obba-t-Alla,  or 
"  (.ord  Allah,"  and  has  been  diversely  as.sociated  with  tlu>  tribal  traditions  and 
missionary  legends.  f'ertain  rites  practised  in  several  jdaces  along  tho  coa.st  are 
evidentlv  of  (Jatholic  origin,  iiitrmlueed  bv  the  Portuffuese  or  Hrazilians.  But 
all  forms  of  religion  are  gradually  giving  way  to  Islam,  which  is  everywhere 
preached  by  the  traders  from  the  banks  of  the  Niger. 


v:w 


1  imple- 


TofiO. 

Tho  liitherto  unknown  term  Togo  has  .siuldeidy  acquired  a  certain  political 
importance,  since  it  has  Ix'on  adopted  as  the  name  of  the  western  district  on  the 
British  frontier  occupied  in  1884  by  tlie  Gennans.  According  to  Zoller  this 
territory,  of  nearly  quadrilateral  form,  is  about  '2'2  miles  long  both  ways,  with  an 
area  of  o20  square  miles,  and  a  population  roughly  estinuitod  at  forty  thousan<l. 
More  recent  inland  annexations  in  the  Krapi  and  Mina  territories  have  consider- 

81— AF 


wiW»m»»^w«>s«wr :  ;y*1W  ^?w«i>  ^  =9gpi--t^M,,3,.«i 


if 


2GG 


WEST   Ai'UKW. 


ably  iiicroiiscd  the  uiw^e  of  comnKMrial  ontcqu'iso,  iiiid  tho  Miiia  town  of  Adntifjhc, 
:{0  mill's  from  tlic  (iKist,  will  probably  soon  losi>  its  indt-peiidonce.  Soint-  (iD  mill's 
farther  iiortli  lies  the  still  moro  important  -ity  of  Afii/,j>ti»ir/i,  whoso  inhabitants 
have  valiantly  and  successfully  defended  their  freedom  from  the  attacks  id'  the 
kinti' of  Daliomcy.  In  Toj^o  tho  chief  cro])s  are  maize  and  ground-nuts,  and  of 
tlio  whole  area  about  one-twentieth  is  under  cidtivation. 

'J')i(/o,  the  capital,  comprises  Hve  villajjes  standing'  close  tojrether  in  a  forest  of 
cocoa-nut  palms  on  the  north  side  of  the  chief  la<;oon.  Jir,  the  fetish  town  of  tho 
Toffo  natives,  lies  nuich  farther  west,  near  the  Hritish  frontier,  and  within  ,*  miles 
of  the  coast.  The  neighbouring  village  of  Jiiitssr  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  manu- 
facturers of  fetishes  and  earthenware.     Some,  the  chief  nnirket  in  Togo,  is  quite  ii 


Fijf.  117.— Toot)  DisTKicr. 

Snilc  1  :  Wl.OOO. 


Dept  Ii8. 


^ 


OtolO 
Feet. 


l(i  to  50 
Feet. 


fin  to  64 
Feet. 


fit  I'p't  md 
iipwtiils. 


18  MiloR. 


now  place  reeentlv  found(>d  on  tho  coast  close  to  the  Engli>h  possessions.  On  the 
same  coast,  but  farther  west,  are  Ihti/idd  (the  Ihtgdad  of  some  maps),  and  Porto 
Sryto-o,  which  Avas  founded  by  innnigrants  from  llruzil,  and  which  had  some 
importance  before  the  abolition  of  the  slave  trade  in  1863. 


Popo. 

The  kingdom  of  Little  I'opo,  east  of  Togo,  was  till  lately  a  French  ^n-otectorate, 
but  has  recently  been  transferred  to  Germany  in  exchange  for  soi...  places  on  the 
South  Seiiegambian  coast.  Povo,  as  it  is  called  by  the  Germans,  consists,  like 
Togo,  of  two  distinct  zones,  the  seaboard  on  which  are  situated  the  trading  i)laces, 
and  the  almost  unknown  but  much  better  cultivated  region  beyond  the  lagoons. 


f'-VftJ 


-XS,**"  f 


T^tj-f 


H 


DAIloMHY. 


207 


)f  At/ft II (j/ir, 
ne  (JO  mill's 
iuhabitiUits 
acks  oi'  the 
mts,  and  of 

I  a  forest  of 
town  of  the 
hin  2  mill's 
y  by  mauu- 
0,  is  quite  a 


v. 

3P' 

««• 

^•■■ 

i    .. 

i'       • 

c- .. 

> 

-iqt 

>*^ 

-== 

6° 

IG' 

=== 

•              1 

n^.  On  the 
),  and  Porfo 
li   hud  some 


nroteotorate, 
>luees  on  the 
.'onsists,  like 
iding  places, 
e  lagoons. 


Liff/c  Pi>/>o,  the  Aueho  and  IMavijo  of  the  natives,  is  an  old  I'orluguese  settle- 
ment dating  i'roin  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century.-  Many  ol  its  inhahitants 
come  from  the  Gold  Coast,  and  still  speak  the  dialect  of  their  ancestors,  hepend- 
ing  politically  on  the  king  of  Orrji,  which  lies  on  the  north  side  of  the  lagoon. 
Little  I'opo  hail  in  1S84  no  less  than  three  chiefs,  till  claiming  the  title  of  king, 
and  each  supported  by  one  or  other  of  the  foreign  and  native  nationalities.  The 
<ierman  suzerain  is  icpresentcd  in  Togo  and  Little  I'opo  oidy  by  the  Ilaniliurg 
and  Hrcmen  traders  settled  in  the  seaports.  The  village  chiefs  anil  fetish  priests 
are  still  the  true  masters  of  the  land. 

Af/irc  \  A  III  I  Iff  11,  AJI'jii),  ()  miles  east  of  Little  I'opo,  founded  in  1.S21  by  the 
Minas,  belongs  politically  to  Franco,  under  whose  suzerainty  it  has  l)'ci)me  a, 
place  of  refuge  for  the  persecuted  of  all  the  surrounding  regions.  All  races  and 
religions  are  thus  represented  in  this  republic,  which  is  wrongly  described  as  a 
kingdom,  its  chief  magistrate  being  charged  oidy  with  the  executive  power. 
Itound  about  are  grouped  .several  other  petty  states,  constituting  a  republican 
confederacy  and  including  Abanankcm,  bearing  the  French  name  id'  Harampicre. 

(Irriit  Piijio,  the  Pla  of  the  natives,  also  founded  by  fugitives,  is  a  mere  group 
of  scattered  huts,  which,  thanks  to  its  favourable  position  on  a  channel  always  open 
to  the  sea,  has  developed  a  considerable  foreign  trade.  French  intluence  is  dominant 
in  this  thickly  peopled  district,  which  with  Agwe  has  uu  estimated  population  of 
I-,'<»,(H)0. 

Dahomkv. 

East  of  Great  Popo  begins  the  Dahomey  territory,  guarded  by  the  important 
town  of  Gleliirch,  known  to  Europeans  by  the  various  names  of  Flila,  Jfcndu/i, 
Wliyduli,  Wida.  The  old  writers  called  it  Jmiii,  and  its  inhabituTits  were  said  to 
be  Jews,  while  the  neighbouring  river  AUula,  whose  real  name  is  J-lfi-a,  bi'came 
the  Euphrates.  During  the  flourishing  days  of  the  slave  trade,  from  sixteen  to 
eighteen  thousand  were  annually  transported  from  AJii(f<i,  as  the  I'ortuguese  called 
this  place,  which  at  that  time  had  a  population  of  thirty- five  thousand.  The  tutelar 
deity  of  Whydah  is  the  snake,  and  its  famous  fetish  temple  is  served  by  priestesses, 
called  "mothers"  or  ••sisters'"  of  serpent.s,  and  recruited  by  the  abduction  of 
young  girls  on  feast  days. 

Whydah  belongs  by  right  of  conciuest  to  Dtihomey  since  lT"2-">,  when  it  received 
its  name  of  Glehweh,  or  "The  Farm,"  indicating  the  part  it  played  in  su])plying 
the  capital  with  provisions.  A  neighbouring  town  was  also  called  Ardi-a,  or  the 
"(^dabash,"  because  its  produce  was  destined  for  the  royal  kitchen.  The  Vevo- 
ghan.  or  "  Chief  of  the  Whites,"  the  local  governor,  who  "  opens  the  roads"  for 
tiavellers  going  inland,  is  the  third  personage  in  the  state,  although  his  power 
has  long  been  neutralised  by  foreign,  and  especially  J'ortiiguese  intluence,  which  is 
here  dominant.  Since  the  blockade  of  the  Dahomey  coast  was  raised  by  the  Engli.sh 
in  1877,  the  trade  in  palm-oil,  the  best  on  this  seaboard,  has  acquired  a  great  de- 
velopment, notwithstanding  the  numerous  restrictions  placed  on  free  intercourse 


I* 

V. 


i, 


'  I! 


M'fA 


mm 


?r^'i  ill* 


208 


WEST  AFKK'A. 


Fif.'.    lis. — D.VnOMEY   AND    AjUDA   CoAST. 
Sciile  1 :  3.420,00(1. 


bv  llio  iuitlioritics.     Tn  stormy  wciitlu<r  the  roadstead  is  unsafe,  as  is  evident  IVoiii 
the  wreckafjjo  constantly  strewn  alonji,'  the  beach. 

On  the  route  to  Agboniey  the  first  station  is  Sari  (Xarirr),  I'oruu-r  capital  of  the 
kinj,nloni  of  Whvdah,  whose  soverei<i;n  was  said  at  one  time  to  couniiand  two  hun- 
dred tliousand  troops.  Tieyond  Savi  the  nmte  passes  by  7'o///,  and  Allmln,  the 
ancient  Ailnni,  also  formerly  the  eajjital  of  a  state,  and  still  regarded  as  the  iiu'tro- 
polis  of  Dahomey,  one  of  the  royal  titles  being  "  Lord  of  Alhida."     Yet  the  jtlacc 

was  ruined  by  the  Dahonu'y  people 
themselves  in  I7','4,  when  they  eou- 
(picred  the  seaboard  route  and  mas- 
sacred the  inhabitants  of  AUadu. 

The  natural  limit  which  formerly 
separated  the  states  of  AUada  and 
Dahomey  is  the  extensive  swamp 
of  Ko,  or  Lama,  easily  traversed 
in  the  fine  seaon,  but  almost,  im- 
passable during  the  rains.  Tn  1 7S4. 
the  most  difficult  points  were 
bridged  and  the  road  partly  raised, 
but  soon  again  subsided.  North 
of  Ko  begins  the  true  continental 
coastline,  and  here,  on  a  terrace 
over  1,000  feet  above  the  sea-level, 
but  easily  accessible  from  the  south, 
stands  Abomoii  (Jf/boiiiri/),  capital 
of  Dahomey,  a  "City  within  an 
enclosure,"  as  the  nanu-  signifies, 
with  monumental  gates,  deep 
ditches,  and  a  thick-set  wall  of 
thorny  trees.  Abomey  covers  an 
extensive  area,  but  most  of  the 
enclosed  space  consists  of  gardens 
and  ruins,  while  the  aggregate  of 
huts  called  the  palace  is  alone  two 
miles  in  circuit.  The  wall  of  this 
residence  was  formerly  stuck  all 
roimd  with  human  heads  or  skulls,  eloquent  witnesses  of  the  royal  jwwer.  But 
the  Minister  of  Portugal,  the  protecting  state,  no  longer  tolerates  the  massacres 
till  recently  required  by  custom,  and  nothing  is  now  seen  except  the  iron  spikes  on 
whicb  once  stood  the  hideous  trophies. 

The  population  of  Abomey  varies  with  the  migrations  of  the  court  between  the 
official  capital  and  Kdim  (formerly  Kana-Mino,  or  Calminn),  a  sumnun-  residence, 
lying  in  a  fever-stricken  depression  between  the  hills,  and  resembling  a  rural 
district  dotted  over  with  houses,  rather  than  a  city  in  the  proper  sense  of  the  term. 


UepfliB 


0  to  160 

Feet. 


160  to  040 
Feet. 


640  Feet  and 
upwurds. 


120  Miles. 


■  ."'J-'", 


,i    \     A«  .-.qiriJT'^^    fcSSiCT  T"i&lri^?P  «*r;^  ?.*  '  --^ss^i^ 


vidrnt  I'mm 
ipiliil  of  the 

1(1  two  llllll- 

A //>"/'!,  the 
s  tlic  met  ro- 
ot till-  i>liicc 
niH'V  pi'oplu 
•n  tlu'V  coii- 
te  and  inu.s- 
f  AUadii. 
I'll  toi'uiorly 
AUuda  and 
qvo  swamj) 
V  traversed 
almost  im- 
.8.  Tn  17H4, 
)()iuts  wt  re 
artly  raised, 
ed.      North 

contlnentul 
II  ii  terrace 
he  sea-h^vel, 
m  the  south, 
itri/),  cajHtal 

within  an 
lie  siffnifies, 
fates,  deep 
set  wall  of 
y  covers  an 
fnost  of  the 
;  of  gardens 
iggregate  of 
is  alouo  two 
wall  of  this 
ly  stuck  all 
|)ower.  But 
lie  massacres 
on  spikes  on 

between  the 
'r  residence, 
ling  a  rural 
of  the  term. 


iWl 


HP 


1  K'\ 


I?    !r 


,p,m:i\ 


T5P.- ji;-;PSM3f^^^^^?5w«7:7^  p'/i^    ^c^r-jTT-jr F:sn:^ 


roUTO-NOVo. 


•2(ii) 


I'ditli  pliU'fs  are  coiini'ctod  l>y  ii  Hn<'  liij,'li\viiy,  IdO   lV<t   In     nl  uii'      T   mil'  >   loiij;, 
lined  all  the  way   with   iiia;,Miitic(iit  tirt's.      Iii  tlu'  nt  iylil       i-ii^i    >.rnr      i  i);iis   a 
pliaiitoiii  l<in<;,  the  douhle  ol'  the  tnio  sovemgii,  with  lii     |i     u-o,  bin  m      iriH,  hi^ 
aiiiazMiis,  and  his  l)nd;,'tl.     In  his  name  are  levied  the  taxts,   .iid  to  hiiii     re  i  iri 
liiited  all  j,'rievances,  while  the  aetual  king  takes  the  credit  ami  ^reive^  iIk    pini 
thanks  for  all  henetieent  deeds. 

North  of  l)ahoniey  jjroper,  in  the  i)rovinee  of  Mahi  and  the  territory  of  i 
I)a>sa  itenple,  follow  the  iniportant  market  oi  Znnj-Xiiini ;  the  jtieturexiue  town  ..i 
Zoijluijho  \  IiOp;ozal)i,  situated  in  a  deli^ditful  ref^'ion  of  hills,  woo<ls,  and  streams 
crossed  hv  susjiension  l)rid}^es;  Sani/ii,  former  capital  of  the  Mahi  count ly; 
./11//11/111,  siirroundi'd  hy  scattered  granite  blocks,  compared  hy  Duncan  to  Slone- 
hciige.  These  Dahonu'y  highlands,  which  have  been  visited  only  hy  two  travellers, 
almost  captives  in  the  hands  of  their  escort,  differ  frctm  the  low-lyinji  i>lains  in 
thi'ir  climate,  natural  history,  and  inhabitants. 

PoKTo-XoN'O. 

East  of  the  Portuguese  "protectorate"  of  Dahomey,  the  French  possess  a  second 
I'livlinr  on  the  coast,  the  petty  native  state  of  Porto-Norn,  which  was  constituted 
at  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century  by  the  foundation  of  the  town  of  lloiti- 
boiiH.  V>\  its  founder,  a  son  of  the  King  of  AUada,  or  Ardra,  it  was  also  called 
Little  Ardra,  but  is  known  to  the  present  inhabitants  by  the  name  of  AJax/ir//. 
The  territory  of  Porto-Novo,  with  a  coastline  of  about  '24  miles,  is  estimated  at 
TOO  square  miles,  and  the  population  at  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  souls. 
The  town  having  been  bombarded  by  the  English  in  IHtil,  the  king  placed  himself 
under  the  protectorate  of  France  in  IStv),  which  first  occupied,  then  abandoned, 
and  definitely  re-occupied  the  place  in  1W2,  attaching  it  to  the  government  of 
.Senegal. 

l*orto-Xovo,  which  is  exceeded  in  population  only  by  Lagos  on  this  coast,  forms 
a  group  of  villages  on  the  north  side  of  the  lagoon  which  communicates  with  the 
iJadagry  and  Lagos  rivers.  The  royal  palace,  which  is  approached  by  a  fetish 
gate  embellished  with  rude  sculptures  of  tutelar  deities,  was  surrounded  so  recently 
as  IS?"*  by  decapitated  bodies  and  festo(ms  of  human  skulls.  A  considerable  trade 
is  carried  on  with  the  northern  towns  of  Af/f/rra  and  Sakctri/,  and  with  the  interior 
as  far  as  the  banks  of  the  Niger.  In  Porto-Novo  the  unicpie  administrative 
arrangement  eonsi.sts  of  two  sovereigns,  reigning  by  day  and  night  alternately. 
Each  has  the  right  of  inflicting  the  penalty  of  death  on  his  colleague,  if  found 
abroad  when  out  of  office. 

Kotonu  or  Apjii,  the  seaport  of  Porto-Novo,  lies  to  the  south-west,  on  the  channel 
where  converge  the  navigable  arteries  f)f  r^akc  Nokhwt'.  This  place,  which 
formerly  belonged  to  Dahomey,  and  was  consequently  claimed  by  the  Portuguese, 
was  finally  ceded  to  France  in  ISHo,  while  the  two  neighbouring  towns  of  Godoimy 
and  Aylmmvii-Kalnri  were  left  to  Portugal.  The  villages  of  AfittuHU  and  Aluraiisoli 
are  built  on  piles  in  the  middle  of  the  lake,  like  the  old  lacustrine  dwellings  of 
Switzerland. 


lili 


'270 


WhST  Al'UK^A. 


IVvDAfiUV    AM)    IiA(;oS. 

l{iii/iii/ri/,  (III  tli(«  iinith  I»iiiik  <tl'  tlio  Ossii,  liciv  ■*»•*»(•  yaids  wide,  i>  the  first 
Kiifrlisli  town  iiu't  on  the  Slave  Coast  goinj^iMstwnnU.  It  was  t'ornicrly  the  capitul 
of  u  kingdom,  and  tlie  lurgrst  slave  tnarki-t  mi  tin*  whole  Hoabourd.    Kkhurd  Lander 


Ki^.  1  It),     I^Aiios. 
PciiIp  I  :  w,i»<0. 


i'i^ 


East     of     ureenw'ch 


tS 


Depths. 


Saiuls  iximsi'il  lit 
liiH  walt'i. 


OtolO 
Feet. 


10  to  82 
Feet. 


.TJ  Feet  und 
iijiwurds. 


3.300  Yiuds. 


relates  that,  at  tlu^  time  of  his  visit  in  1H;}(),  tlie  supply  ftir  exceeded  the  demand, 
and  the  old  iind  intirin  were  then  got  rid  of  by  being  thrown  to  the  sluirks. 
Others,  re.^terved  for  the  siicrifices,  had  their  hearts  torn  out,  which  were  eagerly 
devout  ed  by  the  king,  his  wives,  and  chiefs.  Lander  himself  had  to  drink  the 
poisoned  cup  to  prove  his  innocence  of  r.  crime,  but  escaped  by  taking  a  timely 
emetic. 


•!.■^'■l:^^•u^v-;vs■.-SS=>*^:^^sSS4Sii^S^«^i&^»;s:a^  yi 


liAOOS. 


271 


is  tlic  first 
the  ('uj)itul 
urd  Luiulcr 


10- 


N-: 


6° 

25 


iho  dcmaiul, 
llio  sliavk.s. 
vci'o  eagoi'lv 
0  drink  the 
n<!^  a  timely 


In    the  haMn   of   the  Okpara    river,   north   of    M.iila>,'ry.   arc  tlic   iiidrpcndont 
kiii-doMis  of   Ado,  Tokra,  and  Ok.'adan,  which  still  sullVr  from  the  incursions  of 

tin-  Dahomt  y  people. 

On  an  island  in  th(>  Ossa,  40  miles  cant  of  Hudajjry,  stands  Lui/os,  the  "  African 
Liverpool,"  capital  of  the  Hrilish  possessions  and  the  wealthiest  city  on  the  West 
African  seal»oard.  Fia«,'os  occupies  an  extremely  advauta^'eous  position  alxtut  the 
centre  of  the  iJi^'ht  of  ik>nin,  and  at  the  convcr-,'in<,'  point  of  several  iidaiid  routes 
Throu-rh  the  navi^jahle  river  (>Run  it  coinmunicates  with  the  ^'reat  city  of 
Aheokuta,  and  commands  the  westeru  r)utlet  of  the  Ossa  la^'oou,  whieli  alVords  a 
naviffahl.  hif,'hway  to  the  Ni<,'er  delia.  Nearly  all  the  Kuropean  trade  is  in  the 
hands  of  the  Kn-^lish  and  Germans,  while  the  inhiiid  tratlic  is  carried  im  mainly 
hy  th"  >iohammedans,  who  increased  from  twelve  liundred  in  iSt;.")  to  s'ime  thirty 
thousan<l  in  iSStt. 

The  island  of  Lagos,  the  Auni  or  Awani  of  tlie  rutiv(>s,  lies  three  in  ''s  from 
the  sea,  het ween  the  arms  of  the  lagoons,  the  mouth  (f  ihe  Ogun  river,  and  the 
channel  openin<r  seawards.  Tlie  city  occupies  a  larg  •  space  on  the  west  side  of 
this  marshy  land,  where  the  i:uroi»i'an  cpiarter  has  bc.Mi  Imill  on  groiind  partly 
reclaimed  from  the  lagocm.  Of  late  years  its  trade  has  sulfered  from  the  fre(pu>nt 
wars  between  the  inland  states,  owing  to  which  much  of  the  tralHc  has  been 
diverted  to  the  factories  on  the  Niger  delta. 

Last  of  Lagos,  the  chief  places  on  the  coast  are  I'ltlmn,  Lcrlar,  or  Yrhii,  and 
()<ii,  and  on  the  lagoon  the  most  iinpoitant  town  is  Epr.  The  district  of  Jft/tni, 
lately  occupied  by  the  (iermans,  has  been  restored  to  Hiigland  by  a  convention 
recognising  her  right  to  all  these  alluviid  lands  in  the  Voriba  cmiury.  An 
exiensivo  clearance  in  the  forest  .separating  ( )di  from  the  Mahin  clumnel  has 
become  famous  under  the  nainc!  of  ./^>VW  (.tr//>r/),  porhap^  the  AtfKj'ini  which 
the  Haussa  sultan   moutioued  to  ('lapi)ert)n  as  the  cliiel    trading   placi'  on    the 

fSlavc  Coast. 

:Mahin  l)elonged  to  the  formerly  flourishing  but  now  decayed  kingdom  oi' 
Henin,  which,  according  to  l>a])per,  was  able  at  one  time  to  raise  eighty  thousand 
tigliting  nu'U  in  a  few  days.  ]5ut  in  order  to  dis])lay  his  power  and  pro])itiate 
the  gods,  the  king  offeri-d  human  sacrifices,  wliicb  depopulated  liis  state.  Benin, 
now  the  obscure  village  of  Beni,  had  schoids  and  temples  whose  priests  were  able  to 
carve  "  hieroglyphical  figures  "  and  stone  images,  ])y  means  of  which  thoy  related 
the  history  of  the  country. 

Lagos,  residence  of  the  British  administrator,  bus  been  independent  of  tlie 
governor  of  the  Gold  Coast  since  ISSf);  but  the  ])r..tectorate  is  organised  in  the 
same  way,  the  Kuglish  settlements  being  defended  by  Hau>sa  garrisons.  wbil(> 
the  authority  of  the  judges  appointed  by  the  Crown  is  gradually  replacing  that 
of  the  local  diiefs.  The  revenne  is  derived  from  imposts  levied  at  various  sea- 
ports, and  the  whole  territory  is  divided  into  the  lour  districts  of  Lagos,  the 
North,  East,  and  West,  this  last  with  capital,  Badagry. 


i 


•fi 

i 


iw 


272 


WEST  AFRICA. 


lOlUH.A. 

Alioohuta,  the  fyrciit  npiiijlican  city  on  the  bunks  of  the  Ogun,  is  one  of  the 
hii-fjc'st  phu'cs  in  Africa,  bciiip:  proljubly  exceeded  in  population  by  Cairo  and 
Alexandria  alone.  Most  travellers  estimate  at  over  one  hundred  thousand,  and 
some  missionaries  at  two  hundred  thousand,  the  number  of  iidiabitants  residinj^ 
within  th(>  enclosures,  which  are  formed  by  an  earth  wall  M  to  10  feet  high  and  an 
outer  ditch  10  feet  deep  and  over  20  miles  in  circumference.  This  capital  of  the 
Kf^ba  nation,  which  is  over  4  miles  long  by  2  broad,  j)re8ents  a  renuirkable  appear- 
ance, covering  an  undulating  ])lain  strewn  with  granitic  boulders  of  different 
heights.  The  highest  of  these,  called  the  "  Rock,"  in  a  j)re-eminent  sense,  and 
regarded  by  the  natives  as  their  tutelar  deity,  rises  300  feet  above  the  mean  level 
of  the  plain,  which  is  it.self  some  500  feet  above  sea-level.  All  these  eminences 
present  the  greatest  diversity  of  form,  some  being  rounded  off  like  domes,  others 
terminating  in  points  sharp  as  needles,  or  else  serrated  like  the  teeth  of  u  saw  or 
disposed  like  a  n^gular  wall,  while  one  resembles  the  shell  of  a  huge  turtle.  The 
houses  are  pleasantly  grouped  at  the  foot  of  these  rocks,  whose  grey  granite  Avails 
present  a  striking  contrast  to  the  vei'dure  of  numerous  clumps  of  trees  dotted  over 
the  plain.  Hence  this  place  has  been  well  named  Abeokuta,  that  is,  "I'^nderthe 
Rocks."  The  Egba  metropolis  is  of  recent  origin,  dating  only  from  182-"),  when 
the  inhabitants  of  several  villages,  leaving  the  open  plain,  took  refuge  amid  this 
labyrinth  of  rocks  from  the  raids  of  the  slave-hunters.  They  were  soon  joined  by 
the  persecuted  and  outcastc  from  all  the  .surrounding  districts,  and  in  a  iaw  years 
Abeokuta  became  one  of  the  great  continental  cities,  strong  enough  to  re-sist  the 
attacks  of  undisciplined  and  rudely  armed  forces  frequently  sent  against  it  by  the 
people  of  Ibadan  and  the  king  of  Dahomey.  The  inhabitants,  uniting  for  the 
common  defence,  have  constituted  themselves  in  a  free  confederacy  of  some  sixty 
di.stinct  communities,  each  retaining  the  u.sages,  religions,  privileges,  dialects,  and 
the  very  names  of  their  original  villages.  Amongst  them  are  many  thousands  of 
Mohammedans,  and  a  few  hundred  Christians  grouped  round  the  chapels  founded 
bv  the  missionaries.  For  some  ve.  rs  these  stations  were  tolerated,  but  beiusr 
afterwards  regarded  as  the  centres  of  religious  propaganda,  they  were  all  sup- 
pressed and  the  missionaries  banished,  while  the  converts  were  permitted  the  free 
exercise  of  their  religion.  Recently  some  fresh  Protestant  and  Catholic  stations 
have  been  founded  in  Ab(>okuta. 

During  the  floods  large  Iwats  ascend  the  river  Ogun  to  the  Aro  rapids,  within 
2  miles  of  the  city,  but  at  low  water  they  can  get  no  farther  than  the  bridge  of 
Agbameya,  and  have  sometimes  to  stop  at  Iijaoii,  a  little  above  Lagos,  which  is  80 
miles  by  water  from  jVbeokuta. 

The  chief  magistrate^  of  the  Egba  republic,  who  bears  the  title  of  king,  is 
chosen  for  life  from  one  of  the  four  chief  tribes ;  but  if  his  subjects  are  dissatisfied 
with  his  rule  he  is  invited  to  abdicate.  Formerly  he  was  retiuested  to  go  to  sleep, 
whereupon  he  withdrew  to  his  harem,  and  a  few  days  afterwards  it  was  announced 
that  the  "  royal  sleep  "  bad  begun,  from  which  he  never  woke. 


■.U"' 


-'?;sf.4¥'S'»jn-^r''"  ■  ">  i?;'«SVi#S&W&"S'  P 


Y0RU15A.  273 

rmdau,  till  recently  the  rival  of  Abeokuta,  lies  in  south  Yoruba,  sonic  r)0  miles 


Olio  of  the 
Cairo  and 
iisaiid,  and 
Is  residing 
i<rh  and  an 
ital  of  the 
jIc  appear- 
f  different 
sense,  and 
mean  level 
eminences 
mcs,  others 
f  a  saw  or 
^•tle.  The 
anitc  walls 
lotted  over 
Under  the 
H'^.>,  when 
3  amid  this 
1  joined  by 
I  few  years 
o  resist  the 
st  it  by  the 
ng  for  the 
some  sixty 
lalects,  and 
lousands  of 
3ls  founded 
but  being 
e  all  s ap- 
ed the  flee 
ilic  stations 

ids,  within 
e  bridge  of 
vhich  is  80 

of  king,  is 
dissatisfied 
^o  to  sleep, 
announced 


m 


m 


w 

4*, 


iff? ;'' 
'ii 


north-east   of  the  Egba  capital,   on  the  water-parting  between   the  Ogun  and 


■^'r:nf-:^-  ^J^ 


'27i 


WEST  AFRICA. 


m 


Oshun  basins.  Tii  If^'d  Bowon  psfiinated  its  population  at  sovonty  thonsiind, 
wliifii  liMs  1>.>.Mi  raised  to  over  oiio  hiin  Irod  thonsjind  liy  tlio  n\issi..n:irics,  \vli<.  li;ivt> 
subsiMiucntlv  visiti'd  ilic  pLu-o."  Liko  Altoi)kuta,  Ibadm  is  an  urban  conli'dcracy 
of  villatros  {grouped  in  a  common  (Mudosuro,  liuf  oaidi  with  a  distinct  name  and 
special  or<?anisation.  Th(>  Midiammcdans  arc  moro  numerous  than  in  tho  rival 
republic,  whose  supremacy  Ibudan  has  at  last  been  eomptdled  to  ueknowlcd«,'e  aft(>r 
a  series  of  san;?uinary  wars.  ])urin<>:  one  of  these  tho  j?roat  city  of  IJ'ii/r/i,  lyinj^ 
1(S  miles  north-west  of  Ib.idan,  was  totally  destroyed. 

Along  the  nnudi-fri'(iucnted  hi<j:hway  leading  through  the  markets  of  Shonga 
or  Iv'-'-a  north-cast  to  the  Nupe  country,  follow  some  other  large  towns,  capitals  of 
independent  kingdoms,  in  whi(  h  Mcdiammcdau  influences  are  continually  spread- 
ing. Here  Oi/u  bucamc  the  capital  of  the  north  Yoruba  st  ife  after  the  destruction 
of  KnlaiKjii  by  the  Fuhihs ;  but  it  is  a  much  smaller  place  than  its  neighI)our 
Of/hoiiio.s/io,  which  lies  in  a  fertile  valhy  clo.se  to  the  watir-parting  between  tho 
coast  streams  and  the  afHucnts  of  the  Niger.  Since  it  was  first  crossi'd  l)y  Clap- 
perton,  this  divide  has  b;'en  visited  by  lew  travellers,  every  obstacle  being  thrown 
in  the  way  of  Knropeuu  visitors  by  tho  middlemen,  who  have  a  monopoly  of  the 
international  trade. 


hl'¥ 


^|ii 


\*--  *Jta^ 


\'^y^7^\ 


:p?5i^s^.i;fc|,^^i-^^gitSS^ai5iB&!«SS» 


f'HArTKIl  VIT. 

TliK     NICKI!     1!A' IN. 
(ii.M'.KAi.  Srin  rv. 

IIK  "Nilt>  (if  ihf  liliicks,"  lonj^f  n'<,'iinlt'<l  n-.  a  bvaiicli  of  tlii'  K<ry])tian 
Nilo,  and  uIm)  toiiluscd  with  iiiaiiy  otlier  "  ^silcs,"  smli  as  tin- 
tSoncf^al  and  (ianil)ia.  has  at  hist  vindicated  its  chiini  to  an  ind(']H'n- 
dcnt  cxistonce.  It  is  no'.v  known  to  have  a  separate  fmintain-licad ; 
it  has  abdicated  the  titk-  of  Xi'e,  hut  retained  tliat  of  "Kiver  til'  the 
Blacks,"  or  Ni<;er,  as  the  Huvial  basin  containinj"-  the  hir^est  ^*'e<>;ro  population. 
Apart  from  its  in)portance  in  liistorical  geography,  this  name  corresponds  to  a 
certain  extent  witli  an  ethnoh)gical  chissification.  Yet  thi.s  acceptation  i.  justified 
by  no  expression  in  the  various  languages  current  along  its  banks.  Towards  its 
middle  course  the  Tuaregs  (Herbers),  who  occupy  both  sides  below  Tindadvtu, 
sim])Iy  call  it  Kghirren,  that  is,  "stream.s,"  or  "channels,"  n  term  more  sjx'cially 
applicabk'  to  the  part  of  the  river  where  it  ramifies  into  countless  branciies  in  the 
low-lyin<;  tracts.  Kxcept  the  Arabs,  who  contemptuously  call  it  Nil-el-Abid,  or 
"Nile  of  the  Slaves,"  all  the  other  riverain  populations  designate  the  Niger  by 
somt>  t(>rm  having  the  invariable  sens(>  of  a  huge  or  copious  stream.  Thus  in  it;; 
u])per  «'ourse  the  nuiin  branch  i.s  the  .loliba  (Dhioli-ba,  Vuli-ba),  the  Ita-ba  of  the 
^landingans,  that  is,  the  "(Jreal  Water,"  answering  to  the  "3lavo,"  or  "  liiver," 
in  a  lui'-eminent  s(>nsi',  of  the  l''ulahs.  This  again  corresponds  to  the  Issa  or  Sai 
of  the  Songhais,  the  Shaderba  of  the  llaussas,  the  Edu  of  the  Nifas,  and  to  the 
Kwara  ((iuara)  current  along  its  lower  cour.se,  and  by  geographers  often  applied  to 
the  whole  river. 

The  Niger,  one  of  the  great  livers  of  the  globe,  ranks  third  in  Afiica  for  the 
length  of  its  course,  and  second  for  vohnue,  being  in  this  respect  surj)assed  by  the 
Congo  alon<'.     From  source  to  mouth  the  distance  in  a  straight  line  is  only  l,l(l(t 

l)lil<w      llllf    llV    W'lfoi'    »><i    l#>v:.j    «1tiii    '>  .'will    Tl"*!""      t'"'*-:    "''Tlit     'I'^T^'tl'lt'"    Iv    '"r-    'li'"    <•      ;1    " 

fact  that  the  river,  flowing  at  first  northwards  in  the  direction  of  the  ^leditcrranean, 
])enet rates  into  the  Sahara  and  then  sweeps  round  to  the  east  aiul  south.  The 
basin  thus  developed  cannot  be  estimated  at  less  than  1,0(10,(1(1(1  square  miles, 
including  all  the  regions  of  the  Sahara  dep(>nding  upon  it  by  the  slope  of  the  land 
and  direction  of  the  intermittent  or  dried-up  Huvial  valleys.     The  whole  of  the 


•ife*.l 


i'S 


f--^" 


270 


WEST  AFEK'A. 


mt 


Tsad  system,  with  the  Sluiri  and  its  other  affluents,  mij^ht  even  he  renjardcd  as 
helonf?ing  to  tlie  Xij?er  hasin,  tho  divide  between  the  two  hydrogniphic  re-jions 
beinj?  extremely  htw,  and  the  general  f.spect  of  the  land  showing  that  at  a  former 
gcoh)gieal  epoeh  botli  systems  were  eonueeted  by  intermediate  channels.  It  is 
even  probable  that,  before  piercing  the  coast  ranges  barring  its  passige  southwards 
to  the  (iulf  of  Guinea,  tlie  Niger  flowed  eastwards,  developing  vast  inland  seas,  of 
which  the  Tsad  is  a  surviving  fragment.  Possibly  the  "  Nile  of  the  Blacks  "  may 
at  that  time  have  really  elVect.'d  a  junction  with  that  of  Kgyi)t,  tlirough  the  low 
water-i)arting  between  the  Ui)per  Sliari  and  the  nunu>rous  streams  flowing  to  the 
AVhite  Nile.  In  that  case  the  Beniu-,  at  present  its  great  affluent  from  the  east, 
would  have  been  the  branch  for  communicating  directly  with  the  Atlantic.  Tra- 
versing regions  exposed  to  a  much  heavier  rainfall,  the  IJenue,  although  shorter, 
has  even  now  an  e(pial,  if  not  a  greater  volume,  than  the  main  stream  itself. 

In  the  joint  Niger-Iknue  basin  the  populati(Ui  is  very  unevenly  distributid, 
certain  tracts  on  the  Saharian  sh)pe  and  elsewliere  being  uninhabitod,  whilst  others 
are  densely  peopled,  with  numerous  large  towns,  villages  following  close  together, 
and  the  whole  laiul  forming  a  contimious  garden.  The  actual  population  is  esti- 
mated by  Behm  and  Wagner  at  forty  millions,  although  judging  from  the  detailed 
descriptions  of  travellers,  it  can  scarcely  amount  to  half  that  nmuber. 

In  any  case  it  is  certain  that  throughout  a  long  historic  period,  powerful  com- 
mercial and  industrial  nations  have  succeeded  each  other  in  the  Niger  basin.  Like 
the  Nile,  this  river  was  a  centre  of  culture,  and  its  cities  became  famous  throughout 
Northern  x\.frica,  and  even  Deyond  the  continent.  The  kingdom  of  Ghana,  whose 
name  under  the  form  of  Guinea,  has  been  so  widely  diffused  along  the  western 
scid)oard,  was  known  to  the  Venetian  traders  long  before  it  was  visited  by  any 
European  travellers,  and  for  centuries  Tind)uktu  figured  in  the  imagination  of  the 
western  peoples  as  a  sort  of  remote  African  Babylon.  The  Niger  affords  a  striking 
example  in  support  of  the  law  of  primitive  cidtures,  recently  expounded  by  Ticm 
Mechnikov.  Here  also,  as  in  the  Iloang-ho,  Indus,  Euphrates,  and  Nile  basins 
the  riverain  populations  have  been  very  irregularly  developed,  nor  were  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  fluvial  deltas  anywhere  the  tirst  to  reach  a  higher  state  of  civilisation. 
Proo-ress  was  ahvavs  most  rapid  in  the  interior,  where  were  first  constituted 
national  groups  sufflcicntly  powerful  and  industrious  to  play  an  important  part 
in  the  history  of  mankind,  and  transmit  their  fame  to  remote  regions.  While 
such  nations  were  being  deveh)i)ed  ahmg  the  Middle  Niger,  the  natives  of  the 
delta  remained  in  a  barbarous  state,  blocking  the  approach  to  the  sea  from  the 
civilised  inland  peoples. 


Pkooukss  ok  Discovkhv. 

Thus  it  happened  that,  for  four  centuries,  Europeans  frequenting  the  seaboard 
remained  profoundly  ignorant  of  the  true  course  of  the  grciit  Nigritian  river. 
Even  Mungo  Bark  still  supposed  that  it  reached  the  Atlantic  through  the  (*itngo, 
audit  was  mainly  in  the  hope  of  verifying  this  theory  that  Tuckey's  disastrous 


fv^-W:imMF^'i^imi^mmmMmm^m?^m^gm§i^mm>m^Ss^^''S?^m 


TUK  N'KIKU. 


277 


(>.\]K'Hfi(m  n])  tlie  Coiijfo  wiis  cjirri.-cl  out  in  \X\*k  wliiU'  lV(l<lu'  was  to  join  IiiukN 
witli  liim  l)y  (U'sciMuliii^:  tlio  Nigor:  Yi't  in  ISO'J,  the  googniplicr  Ui'i.lianl  had 
ulrendv  tnuvd  on  tlii-  niap  llu-  tnii'  nioutli  of  the  rivi-r,  altliou-^h  i-vtii  hi-  inadi-  it 
pans  tlnough  RoniR'U's  "Sen  of  Wan'ram,"  now  idcntitii'd  witli  Lakf  Tsid.  It 
was  only  in  1^:>(>  that  the  brotht-fs  l.andiT  (h'tcrniintd  its  trut-  lowiT  course  by 
actual  exploration;  nor  is  the  survey  of  the  whole  river  yet  quite  completed.  It 
began  with  Mungo  Park,  who  devoted  his  life  to  the  problem,  and  who  in  17!M1 
reached  the  Niger  at  Segu,  which  he  found  already  as  large  as  the  'I'hames  at  West- 
minster, and  flowing  slowly  towards  the  east.  Krom  this  point  he  followed  it  for 
rj(»  miles  down  to  Silhi,  and  for  the  same  distance  up  to  llamaku,  thus  apparently 
verifving  Herodotus'  account  of  u  great  river  flowing  "  from  west   to  east  "  across 


Filf-    I'il.  — IIvi'iiTIlESES   OF   TIIK    Oui   < JKoflBArnKIW   ON    TlIK   CoiltSK   01    TIIK   XlliKIl. 


SimI<<  1  :  iK)  i)(1i>.ilil<). 


50 


wieridian  of  (jrccn  a  ' c I-' 


l.ano  Milea 


Afiica.  Tn  180')  he  started  on  bis  second  voyage  from  the  siune  village  of  Baniaku, 
but  after  four  months'  floating  with  the  stream  he  perished  with  all  his  party  at 
the  passage  of  some  narrow  rapids  near  Mussii.  One  slave  alone  escaped,  and  us 
tlie  papers  were  lost  in  the  rapids,  net  details  were  received  in  Kurope  of  tliis  ill- 
fated  exjH'dition. 

in  lf*V()  (  lapperton  crossed  the  .Niger  below  the  point  where  .>lnngo  l*ark  was 
drowned,  and  the  approximate  form  of  the  ramitieations  above  Timbuktu  was 
determined  by  Caillie's  journey  in  l.S27-',>H.  l.astly,  in  IH'Jtl,  Hicliard  Lauder, 
comptmitin  of  Clapp»>rton  in  the  previous  expedition,  siu'ceedcd,  with  his  brother,  in 
following  the  lower  cours(>  all  the  way  t«  its  mouth. 

lu  18;3",>   I.aiug  reached  the  hilly  district  where  the  heudstreams  have  their 


•"^rS^*** 


278 


WEST  AFRICA. 


source,  and  in  1800  Winwood  Roado  crossed  the  J(dib:i  itself  within  1 10  miles 
from  its  orifrin,  Ten  years  later,  Zweii'el  and  Moustier  came  witliin  sij^ht  of  the 
Temhikundu  liill,  the  fountain-head  of  the  sacred  river;  hut  the  spirit  of  the 
waters,  representi'd  bj'  a  suspicious  hi<j:h-prie->t,  barred  their  farther  advance.  Of 
the  upi)er  course  the  best  known  section  is  naturally  that  which  forms  the  present 
boundary  of  French  Sudan  for  a  distance  of  about  ;J()0  miles  between  Falaba  and 
Sansandig.  J?ut  even  here  the  side  branches  and  eastern  atHuents  have  k-eii 
traced  o:i  the  maps  only  from  the  reports  of  native  traders       IJelow  Timbuktu  the 


Fig    122,— Chief  Routes  of  Explobeks  in  the  Nioeb  Basin  West  of  the  Benie. 

Scale  1 :  2(i,0Xl,CHX». 


16' 


I'^iUf^ir"*^^:?^  ■■■"     / 


:s 


.''",-.''.■ 


TMbuctu      t 


\ 


V, 


"-*5H>5j 


6i/ 


M'lrA 


rAcmf 


16" 


M e fi dian  oF  Gr'eenw'icl"       \ 


Dep'lis 


0*0  640 
Feet. 


640  Feet  and 
upwiiids. 

3i»  Miles. 


course  of  the  stream  has  been  more  accurately  determine!  by  Barth's  survey  in 
18o4 ;  but  the  space  of  about  Kio  miles,  between  tho  towns  of  Sai  and  Gamba,  at 
the  Sokoto  confluence,  has  never  been  revisited  by  any  European  since  ^Eungo 
Park's  expedition. 

All  the  lower  reaches,  except  some  of  the  secondary  branches  of  the  delta,  are 
well  known,  having  been  ascend(>d  from  the  sea  by  Laird  in  l.s:i-,>  and  Oldtield  in 
1834,  and  since  then  by  numerous  other  explorers,  including  Joseph  Thomson, 
who,  in  spite  of  many  obstacles,  made  his  way  from  the  coast  to  iSokoto  and  buck 


'7m<'ffh'h  ,^- 


'.  %i*t'R^t3S4?'^?>  a. 


in  four  months.     The  IJonuo  also,  discovered  by  llurth  in  liS">l,  was  iisecndcd  in 


Hi 


1W4  by  Baikio  for  GOO  miles  fio  n  the  Atlantic.     In  ISTO  a  steamer  belonging  to 


-«f*t 


m^m^!6m^i»0^^^M^&^y^m&r^y' 


mm^ 


2S0 


WEST  AFHIPA. 


a  iiiissioiitirv  socioty  ])oiietratc(l  ISO  miles  hcyond  iJiiikif's  farthest,  ax*  ndiu*^ 
JJG  luilos  the  Faio  coiitliu'iu'o,  wlu-ro  tlu"  Hoiiuc  had  already  hecn  crossed  by  IJarth. 
Siiu'e  that  tiiuo  both  the  Hemio  and  the  Ni^i'r  have  heiii  l)r()Ught  within  the 
sphere  of  lMiro|)eau  trade,  and  the  "Itoyal  African  Ctinipany,"  formed  hy  a  nundu'r 
of  Hnglisli  merchants,  has  b 'Conic  the  almost  official  sovereign  of  all  these  regions, 

Fig.  Vi\. — Uppek  Niokk  Vai.i.ky. 
Srale  1  :  l.ioo.noo. 


'yVest    of    Greenwich  IO'ao" 


10*  10' 


.  lb  Miles. 


comprising  numerous  kingdoms  and  republic>%  and  peoj)led  by  various  races  with 
diiferent  languages  and  religions.  According  to  the  stipul-itions  of  the  Herlin 
Conference  held  in  188o,  the  future  supremacy  of  the  Joliba,  or  Upper  Niger,  is 
reserved  to  France,  that  of  all  the  rest  to  England,  the  uiuiu  stream  being,  however, 
thrown  open  to  the  flags  of  all  nations. 


^•?:e5^^^ife>4^?^3'KJ3SliS'     r 


11  IK  Ml. Kit. 


2m 


1 


Tin:   ri'iM:it   AM)   Mmnii    Nkiii. 

A  s|ii(i;il  illKrrst  illtliclics  tn  tile  oliirill  n|  tin-  n;rc;it  liviM'  whose  Ijiisin  li;is  tliilS 
liccii  iiliciidy  it;irtiti(iii((|  iMtwcni  t  wu  luiropciii  I'owits.  Altlimij^li  pnxciiicd  Irmn 
iniiiing  wiliiiii  ri)ur  mill's  (if  its  source,  /weitel  mid  .Moiislii>r  were  ;il  leasi  id)le  lo 
c'lllect  siilHrieiil  iiil'onnatioii  to  dcscrilic  it.  Tlio  'l\  iiihi,  iis  the  t.iiili,-t  lie:id- 
^Ireiim  is  culled,  apjuvi's  to  rise  at  the  Teiiihi- Kuiidii  hill,  that  is.  the  "  Tcinhi 
Head,"  a  hii^re  romuU'il  block  siaiidiu;,''  lietweeii  I  wo  others  of  like  loini,  liui  niiich 
iw^lu-r.  with  a  Itliiish  raii},'e  in  the  hack'^'roiiiul.  The  spiinj?  iiimcdiatc-ly  de\elo|)s 
a  livuK'l  two  feel  hi-oad,  whicii  Hows  rapidly  to  a  little  lake  with  a  reeky  islet 
shaded  l>y  a  wide-iiraiichiuir  tree,  the  retreat  of  a  ]»o\\<rful  wizard  renowned 
throu^'hout  the  surroundin';  lands.  Meyond  the  hike  the  'l'(  nihi  plun^i-s  into  a 
deep  Hssure,  reappearinjj  sonic  distance  hclow  the  villa<j;«'  of  Nolia. 

The  "  lather  of  tlie  .loliha,"  which  at  its  source  has  an  altitude  of  alioul  'J.SdO 
feel.  Hows  mainly  north  to  its  junction  with  tin-  Faliko,  (^1  miles  from  the  Teiiihi- 
Kundu  hill,  the  united  stream  forniinj;  the  .loliha,  and  niainlainiii;;  a  iiorth- 
otiHterly  course  thnaij^h  Frcncli  Sudan  l<i  and  hcyond  Seo;u,  and  rcc(  ivini,.-  the 
Tankisso  ami  several  other  aHIuonts  from  the  neiirhhouriug  hills  and  ])lateau.\. 
.\t  the  Tankisso  junction,  'ifiO  miles  from  its  .source,  it  has  already  de-ccnded 
considerahly  more  than  halt"  of  tlu>  total  inolino,  and  is  here  little  more  than 
1,000  leet  above  sea-levd.  At  Hamaku  the  mean  breadtli  is  over  OdO  yards,  with 
a  depth  of  (»  or  7  feel  ;  Init  five  channel  is  here  obstructed  l)y  nmnorou.s  reefs  and 
sandbanks,  smdi  a.s  that  of  Sotid)a,  al)ovc  wliich  steamers  can  ascend  only  duriiiiif 
the  Hoods. 

At  Sansadi^r,  where  its  h(<d  is  little  more  than  H()()  foot  above  the  sea,  the 
Joliba  enters  a  Hat  region  with  scarcely  any  ])erceptible  incline,  in  which  the 
slu^'gish  current  ramiHes  info  a  sort  of  inland  (h>lla.  The  eastern  and  Iar<>-est 
branch,  which  was  alore  followid  by  Mun^'o  I'ark  and  Caillie,  encloses  with  the 
l>iaka,  or  western  arm,  the  low  island  <if  l{ur<j:u,  which  is  fully  T^'O  miles  long, 
but  intersected  by  innumorabli!  connecting  channels.  From  tlnse  branches  tli(> 
stream  converges  in  the  l)ebo,  a  vast  morasH  Ho<Mled  during  the  inundations,  and 
.succeeded  farther  down  by  other  insular  tracts  and  temporary  lakes,  like  those 
of  the  White  Xile  about  the  nahr-el-(iliazal  confluence,  but  destitute  of  the 
Hoatiug  masses  of  matted  vegetation  so  characteristic  of  that  river. 

in  this  lacustrin(»  region  the  Joliba  is  joined  from  the  .so\ith  by  its  great 
aUluent,  the  Hakhoy,  or  "White  liiver,"  called  al.so  the  I'lu-llu,  which  in 
jiroliably  as  copious  as  the  main  stream  itself.  The  vast  basin  of  ihv  I'aklioy, 
occupying  all  the  northern  slojK's  of  the  Kong  nplands  from  Liberia  to  Aslianti, 
is  still  almost  entirely  unknown,  iJene  Caillie  beinjr  the  only  traveller  who  has 
yet  crossed  this  rej^ion,  which  is  watered  by  several  navigable  sti'eams.  After 
its  conHueiice  with  the  Koraba  (Pand»ine  or  Mahel  liodeval),  which  is  over  •iOO 
yards  wide  and  ll>  feet  deep  at  the  point  crossed  by  r'aillie.  the  Makhov  flows 
l>arallel  with  the  Jolibu,  and  after  ramifying  into  numerous  branches  in  the 
Jenne  country,  joins  the  muiu  stream  ubove  Luke  Debo. 

82— AK 


w 

Iff 


^^^iWiSaisStil 


ht?'i  ! 


2H2 


WEST  AFRICA. 


T I  MBUKTU    I*  . 


I5cl(.\v  the  coiifltu'iicc  the  Xi<,n'r  af?aiii  dfvolops  an  iiitri(uitc  systoni  of  iliannols 
and  hiiikwatois  pnictnilmjr  !'<•  Jnilcs  scaitliwanls  iiiidcr  the  iiu-iidian  of  Titnluiklu. 
The  riverain  jjupidalioiis  (r,)tiirc  hir^'e  (iiiaiitilics  of  tish  in  tliis  lahyrin'h  of 
waters,  whiili  lise  and  fall  with  the  scMsons ;  they  also  <xr,>\v  rice  in  the  nioisf 
depressions,  harvesting'  the  -  i-ops  ])etore  the   periodical  return  of    the  floods,  thus 

alternately  us:n<^  the  sanu'  tracts  for 
Fifr.  I'.'.V— RvrKWATKKs  Soctii  of  TiMniiKTU.  fishiii;,'  and  husliandry. 

sciic  1 :  LrKKuxjo.  Somo  l")  miles  farther  down   the 

I ]     main  stre.nn,  arrested  in  it>  northerly 

course  bv  the   southern   escarjaneiits 
of  the  Sahara,   is  ahrniitly  dcflect((l 
for  about  'J40  miles  eastwards  to  the 
por<,'es  in  the  lUirum  district,  imme- 
diately below  which  it  sweeps  round 
to  the  south,  retainin<i;  that  direction 
for  tho  rest  of   its  course  to  the  (Julf 
of  (Juinea.     But  before  openin<^  this 
passa<>;e  seawards  it  is  probable  that 
the  Xi<;er  converted  intou  vast  inland 
sea  all  the  low-lyin^  veffioii  which  is 
now   intersected    by   the   network   of 
backwat(>rs  flooded  durinj;  the  inun- 
dations.     One  of  these  channels  still 
runs  northwards  in  the  direction  of 
Timbuktu,  beyond  which,  accordinfr 
to     the     information     collected     by 
Pouyannc  and  Sabatier,  it  appears  to 
be    continued     through    a    s(>ries    of 
depressions    probably   marking    the 
course   of  the  Niger  at  a  geological 
epoch-  anterior  to  the  piercing  of  the 
liuruni  gorges.     ]Jut  the  suggestion 
that  the  Wed  Messaura  of   Southern 
Mauritania  and  the  Twat  oasis  now 
occupies  the  same  depression  with  its 
sandy  bed,  seems  to  be  contradicted 
bv    the     provisional     measurements 
taken  by  de   Soleillet   and  Lenz    in 
Twat  and  Timbuktu,  the  latter  point  being  apparently  some  4;J0  feet  higher  than 

the  former. 

About  60  miles  below  the  Rurum  defiles,  where  at  Tossai  the  fluvial  bed  is 
contracted  to  less  than  aOO  feet,  the  Niger  passes  from  the  zone  of  the  Sahara  to 
that  of  Sudan.  Here  two  branches  of  the  stream  at  the  foot  of  the  sandstone 
Ausongo  Idlls  enclose  an  island  18  miles  long  and  strewn  with  rocks  in  the  form 


18  Miles. 


i"! 


'r'Z:''^:^y^^r,-sr--;-^^ 


TlIK  MIDDI.K  NKiKR. 


2H8 


i>r  cliimnols 
Titnlmktu. 
ihyriii'li  of 
tlic  lllnist 
tldods,  thus 
t>  tnu'ts  tor 

•  down    the 
Is  iiortlirrly 
•MMi'pinctits 
y  (Iffhrtcd 
kiinls  to  tho 
I'ict,  inimo- 
■('('ps  round 
at  direction 
to  the  (Julf 
poiiiii}^  this 
robuble  that 
I  vast  inhmd 
LOU  Avhich  is 
network  of 
^  tho  imin- 
liannels  still 
direction  of 
1,  according 
dlcctcd     by 
t  appears  to 
a    s(>ries    of 
larking    the 
u  geological 
rcing  of  the 
^  suggestion 
of   Southern 
it  oasis  now 
sion  with  its 
contradicted 
leasurenients 
nd  Lenz    in 
higher  than 

I  u vial  bed  is 
he  Sahara  to 
10  sandstone 
» in  the  form 


(if  <il)>li-iks,  t!ie  remains  of  olotnicfiotis  not  yet  entirely  removed  bv  the  current. 
Kartlu-r  on  follow  other  narrows  and  harrier-*,  especially  simth  of  a  chain  of  hills 
SnO  to  l.tMIII  feet  iii;fh  skiltiug  llie  left  hank  Here  the  Niger  is  joined  bv  the 
nuw  almost  dried-up  Wed  Tafassasset,  whicii  rises  on  tin-  souihern  sidpes  of  the 
Ahaggar  iiills,  and  wliicli  with  its  various  raniiHcations  probablv  at  one  time 
watered  a  •igion  as  extensive  as  that  of  tlic  .loliba  itself,  'I'Ik-  -lallul  iSosso 
valley,  in  which  the  whole  syxteni  converges,  is  even  now  never  <|uile  waterless, 
its  lower  course  winding  tlnouL'^h  a  district  with  a  yearlv  raiiilall  of  scareelv  less 
than  ','0  inches. 

Lower  down  tho  Niger  i.s  joined  o])])ositc  (Jonibi  I>y  the  perennial  (Jnlbi 
n'  Sokoto,  or  "  IJiver  of  Sokoto."  so  callt  d  from  the  city  of  that  ii,  nio  situated  on  its 
banks.     The  Sokoto,  which  rises  in  the  Katsena  country,  waters  the  northern  /one 

Fife    120. -The  BxnirM  Dkfii.ks. 

Siiil,   I  :CJ.4.(>K» 


n 

^    1 

s- 

-^^ 

j^fcU^.                   /t    U    U  .1  J  A 

« 

<v . 

'^. 

T^li^^^^MiiBtf**"'" — ■*    3t  ^^fkJT" 

«»• 

1 

Tt' 

/.jum/S^*^^"^!^  ^^g^K', 

i^ 

f  *.   •■> 

■••' 

^»,B,\oA        ''^'^^^);^  / 

i&'-  "^^ 

^-r^ifiii 

I'?!!;.. 

■^        o         ^ 

^'^rS' 

ct 

■'@C> 

■er 

'      v"l              1 

-^IfO                       <! 

•v\'     ^ 

^    V 

^■^ 

'  wv''**!S 

f**y 

w' 

'<!. 

)OlL^ 

V 

1'                                                                West  of  G^eenwlc^ 

C 

is  Mills 


of  Sudan  on  the  verge  of  the  Saharian  savannas;  but  its  bed,  from  l-'50  to ','")0 
feet  wide,  contains  very  little  water  e.xct,*  during  the  Hfiods.  Flegel,  who 
surveyed  its  lower  course  for  !J0  miles  from  (jlomba  to  I>irni  n'  Kebhi,  repn  s»nts  it 
as  obstructed  by  vegetub'e  remains,  trunks  of  trees,  and  muddy  banks. 

Helow  the  Sokoto  conHucnce  the  Niger  is  still  oi>structed  by  some  extremely 
dangerous  ra])ids,  such  as  those  near  l?us.s:i.  jvrobably  the  point  where  Mungo 
I'ark  j)erished  in  b'^OC).  The  bontnu;a  who  accompinied  Flegel  in  INSO  assured 
him  that  at  low  water  the  remains  of  the  Kuropvan  boat  were  still  visible,  and 
tlie  broihers  Lander  obtained  from  the  king  of  Bussa  some  books  and  other 
documents  belonging  to  the  famous  explorer.  At  Geba,  where  the  river  is 
deflected  south-eastwards  to  the  Renue  confluence,  the  rocky  isle^  )f  Kesa  rises 
abruptly  JJ^iO  feet  above  the  water,  uud  from  this  point  the  Niger,  still  400  feet 


jfcs«Sfes?CI'rt#!iv' 


m 


.  n 


284 


Wi:ST   A  I" UK 'A. 


iP'lii 


'■^'  I 


'r'i&'i 


■h'!f|. 


alMtvt'  Kou-lt'vcl.  frlidos  with  a  plucid  uniform  How,  tmiiiipcilcd  hy  any  fiirllior 
oltstiiclc"'  I'nr  4")<»  milfs  to  tin-  roust.  'I'liin  M'ctioii,  wliidi  is  jniucd  al»ivc  l.^r'^V'^  l>y 
till'  coijions  river  l.ifiiii.  or  Kiidiiiiii.  rmiii  /iiria,  !>  now  iiavi^'atod  l»y  larj^'c  strainers 

oven   in    the   dry  season,  when    sonii- 

Fig.  IJT.-TiiK  111  s.s.\  ItAi'ins.  parts  are  over  <•(>  tVtt   (h'ej).  risiii<>;  .'|i> 

Soil,  1 :  \:\.\oi».  or  even  40  feet  hijfher  (hiring  the  floods. 


10' 
SCf 


Tin;   ni:M  i:. 

Tlie  l5eiiMe,  or  "  mother  of  Maters," 
is  a. second  Nifjer  in  volume,  whih' it  nuist 
he  regarded  as  hy  lar  the  more  im- 
portant of  the  two  ^•reat  arteries  in 
eeonomie  vaUu',  as  a  navipahh^  river 
flowinj;  tlirouj^li  thickly  peojded  and 
cultivated  lands.  The  term  Chadda 
aj)])lied  to  it  hy  .some  oH  the  riverain 
])eoples  and  adopted  l)y  the  early  ex- 
J»lorer^',  had  its  origin  prohahlv  in  a 
confusion  hetween  its  n])])er  course  and 
Lake  ("had  or  Tsad.  M(.st  of  the 
other  local  designations  are  reforahleto 
u  sort  of  mystic  opposition  hetween  the 
two  rivals,  the  Henue,  or  "  iUack,"  and 
the  Kwura  (Niger),  or  "  White  River," 
an  opjtosition  fully  justified  hy  the 
colour  of  the  respective  waters. 

Of  the  Henuo  the  most  striking 
feature  is  its  slight  incline,  estimated  at 
scarcely  (idO  feet  in  a  total  course  of  as 
many  miles,  and  falling  from  about  !)(K) 
feet  ahovc  sea-level  at  the  head  of  the 
navigation  to  '.i70  at  the  ecmfluencc. 
Thanks  to  the  (>xplorations  of  Ihiikie, 
Ashcroft,  and  Flegel,  tlie  navigalde 
section  is  well  known  ;  hut  the  region 
of  its  fartliest  headstreams  still  re- 
nuiins  unvisited.  According  to  V')gel, 
Hutchinson,  and  olhers,  the  rp])er 
I'eniu'  is  ctmnecfed.at  least  during  the 
floods,  hy  a  continuous  line  of  navigable  channels  with  the  Siiaii  and  Lake  Tsad. 
From  the  Tuburi  swamps,  di.scovered  by  Vogel  at  an  altitude  of  about  l.(M)()  feet 
above  the  sea,  the  superfluous  waters  flow  in  one  direction  northwards  to  the 
liogon  branch  of  the  JShuri,  in  another  westwards  to  the  Mayo  Kebbi,  apparently 


4° 86  East  of  G 


reenwicn 


;iA  MUes. 


i!|.li 


'.•tf^V^^iin*!' 


«%*^    ^fSs^!^:.  S.^'SSIS^'iv.      ^ 


1 


TllK  ItKN'UK. 


285 


ny    rnllior 

JC  sltMllHTS 
vllCIl      SOlllI' 

),  risiiij;  .'in 

••till'  llunds. 


liilcit  nnisl 

•  Diorc    iiii- 
arteries  in 

•jiililo  river 
leopled  uiul 
■III  Cliadda 
he  rlvoniiii 
i>  early  o.\- 
ibablv  in  a 

•  coiii'se  and 
Idst    of  the 

referable  to 
lietwcon  the 
IJlaek,"  and 
hite  Hiver," 
ied  by  the 
tcrs. 

)st  striking 
estimated  at 
course  of  us 
m  about  iXIO 
head  of  tlie 

confluence. 
s  of  IJaikie. 
p  nnvifjablo 

the  refj;ioii 
ins  still  re- 
ii<>:  to  Vopel, 

the  Upper 
t  during''  the 

Lake  Tsad. 
It  1.000  feet 
ards  to  the 
,  apparently 


the  ]ai';;est  headslre:ini  of  the  I?enue.  which  deHeeiuls  from  the  nei;,'iihoiiriny; 
.\;;amidert''  .Mountains.  .Vfter  t!ie  coiitluence  the  nniti'd  stream,  already  "itid  or 
;iOO  feel  wide,  winils  westwards  between  sandstone  hills  ri>in;^  many  Inindred  feet 
above   its  bid,  which  at   many  ^)oillts  is  obstructed  by  rocky  ledyes,  rendering,''  all 

Fig.   I'iS.— C'oNFi.rK.srE  dk  Till-;  Nkikh  anh  IU;si;e. 

Scull!  1  :  17ii,i«i<l. 


'ifSl 


Tt7- 


fee,, ,  ,..,.,...,_...,..„_ 

i. ■■■'■:'■'  '•  •■  ••'•'...  //■  •viii.t.-ijj>'-"'  ^^'^^ 


■•••1 


',        X.\  I     '     'lOdono       - 


,j"i' ''J' k    ■  •'•■        .        r*  /     '     ■iUdonoU-1      II    . 


'U'v>i..>>  •■ 


M'St 


..  t  .. 


^^'' 


t'^' 


East    oT     breenwich  6°47' 


Utptlis. 


otoie 

Feet. 


16  Feet  iind 
upwards. 

__  »  Miles. 


navigation  impossible  in  the  dry  season.  But  it  is  soon  swollen  by  numorouB 
iitHuents  from  the  AVangara  hills  in  the  north,  and  from  the  south  by  the  Faro 
(I'ai'o),  a  cojjious  stream  descending  from  the  still  unexplored  regions  beyond 
Adamawa,  and  sweeping  round    the  east   foot   of   Blount   Alantika,  one  of  the 


^.1 


I 


m&Mim^i 


m^SSS&^'^:--^MMsm  =■* 


280 


WEST  Al'UlCA. 


culniinatiug  points  of  "West  Africu,  altliougli  IJarth's  estiniuto  of  its  lieigbt,  8,000 
to  10, 000  ieet,  is  rogurck-d  bv  Flegel  us  exaggciuled. 


H 

■A 

« 

< 
» 

<A 

O 

M 

< 

E 


3 


to 


IJelow   the    Furo   confluence   the   nenue   flows  mainly    in    a    south-westerly 


.  i^«,fcj«i»li'  j 


WV^^;^S^^•*ii;'Sy^i;|j^«^A^S«i'.i;•li^: 


THE  BENUE. 


direction  in  valleys  of  varying  brendth,  but  ovorywhore  skirted  on  the  liorizon  by 
ranges  ctr  detached  masses  of  lulls  and  mountains.  At  many  points  the  stream  is 
over  1, ()()((  yards  wide,  and  here  and  there  divided  by  islands  into  several  branches. 
At  the  Niger  confluence  t lie  intermingled  grey  and  blackisli  currents  j)resent  the 
aspect  of  a  vast  lake  encircled  by  hills,  and  during  the  Hoods  in  August  and 
September  discharging  probably  over  1,000, 000  eubic  feel  per  second.  From  this 
point  the  united  stream  Hows  nearly  due  south  for  "J-iO  miles  to  the  head  of  the 
delta,  which  is  still   (iO  miles  from   the  coast.      This  extensive  low-lying   tract, 

Fig.  130. — MouTus  OF  tiik  Nun  and  Brass. 

Senile  1 :  fjOO.OOO. 


28« 


developing  a  remarkably  symmetrical  semicircle  between  the  IJenin  and  Urass 
estuaries,  and  intersected  by  countless  channels,  higoons,  mar.shes,  and  stagnant 
waters,  has  u  coastline  of  about  '.ilO  miles,  with  a  total  area  of  10,tK)0  scpuire  miles. 

Tin;  Ni(ii;ii  Dki.ta. 

At  present  the  chief  branch  of  tht^  delta  is  the  river  Xun.  which  follows  the 
main  axis  of  the  Niger,  entering  the  sea  at  the  southernmost  point  of  this  watery 
region.     Korth-west  of  it  flows  the  Henin,  which  gives  its  name  to  the  ueigh- 


"^ij^l^^fSiSSBfeftiSil^'i&S: 


.^Jif 


288 


WKST  AFltlCA. 


*l 


bouriiij''  bi^'lit.  and  wliitli  is  the  Imu'iiiosu  of  the  INirfugucso.  Allliniin;li  over 
Idfcfl  (lti'|i  at  low  water,  the  liar  at  tlic  iiututli  of  tliis  cliaiiiic'l  is  ri'udci'cd  so 
danji('roii>  Ity  the  fiiiy  of  tlio  l)rc!dvi'i's  that  vessels  diu\\iii<i'  iiioi'e  than  (•  or  7  I'eet 
searci'ly  ve:itiir(>  to  risk  the  passufje.  Itetween  tlie  Uenin  and  the  ,\un  follow 
iiiiie  olluT  liranclus,  of  whieh  the  Rio  i'lircudos  alone  is  of  t>asy  access  to  cral't  of 
j'vei'a;,^'  si/.e.  'I'lie  mouth  oi  the  Nun,  although  often  dangerous,  may  still  Ite 
iMsily  aM'eiirh  d  Ity  \cssels  drawing  1-5  or  N  feet.  Fartlior  east  i'oUow  oilier  ai'nis 
at  average  intervals  of  10  miles,  all  with  dangiTous  bars,  and  all  connocttd  in  the 
interioi'  by  a  laliyiintli  of  na'.igal)le  channels. 

l-'or  ten  months  in  the  year  the  prevailing  winds  blow  inland,  ofti'U  with 
.sufficient  force  to  enable  sailing  vessels  to  sli'in  tiie  tluvial  current.  To^^,;^ds  the 
end  of  Nuvend)ei'  b  '^iu.s  the  s;m-;ou  of  tlie  .so-called  ••  smokes,"  dry  fojrs  r(Miderin<r 
the  seaboard  invisible  at  ii  short  distance  olV  the  coast,  but  usually  dissi[)ated  by 
the  afternoon  Itreezo,  and  occasionally  disper.sed  by  tornadoes. 

The  two  ramifying  estuaries  of  .New  Calabar  an<l  lionny  are  usuallv  regarded 
as  forndng  pari  uf  the  Niger  hydi'ographic  system,  with  whicli  thcv  are  conni'cted 
l)y  a  branch  of  liie  delta  and  several  brackish  channels  along  the  coast.  l!ut  the.so 
i'stuaries  are  cliietly  fed  by  an  in(h])endent  stream  which  ris(>s  in  the  hilly  region 
skirting  the  south  side  of  tlH>  15enue  Valley.  The  <  >ld  Calabar  estuary,  which  has 
also  been  included  in  the  Niyor  system,  and  which  higher  up  lias  been  wronaly 
named  tlie  Cross  Jiivei-,  as  if  it  communicated  westwards  with  the  delta,  is  on  the 
I'ontrary  an  entirely  indepoudoiir,  basin,  which  in  its  middle  course  taki's  the  name 
of  Oyoiio.  It  is  a  very  large  river,  which  in  ISpJ  was  a.scended  by  Uecroft  and 
iving  fir  liM)  miles  to  tlio  rapids,  and  which  in  many  places  was  found  to  be  over 
1,(1(10  yards  wide  and  here  and  there  from  lO  to  (!•">  feet  deep.  T1h>  surveyed 
section  describes  a  compli-te  semicirclo  round  a  mass  of  sxiMiitic  hills  oxer  ;i,OO0 
feet  high,  and  its  valley  is  probably  continued  eastwards,  so  as  to  isolate  the 
Kamoroon  highhinds  from  the  rest  of  the  continent.  The  lower  course  of  the 
Oyono,  although  not  diiectly  connected  with  the  Xiger,  nevertliele.ss  forms,  like 
the  liio  del  iiey  farther  cast,  an  easterly  continuati<ui  of  its  alluvial  zone,  the 
whole  region  presenting  everywhere  the  same  general  aspect,  and  yielding  to 
commerce  the  .same  natural  products.  Politically  also  these  secondary  basins,  like 
tlio  Niger  itself,  urc  under  the  suzerainty  of  Great  Britain. 


Thk  Ui'pkr  Nifii;u  States. 


Ill 


ir '» 


'llie  lands  xyatered  by  the  Upper  Niger  as  far  as  the  Benue  confluence  com- 
prise a  large  number  of  tribes  and  nations  with  little  ethnical  coherence,  but  at 
present  constituting  three  main  political  groups.  Like  most  of  the  empires 
developed  since  the  !Mohammedan  invasion,  the  southern  state  is  of  religious  origin. 
It  dates  only  from  about  the  yeai-  1H7-*j,  wlu'U  mention  first  occurs  of  the  new 
prophet  Samburu,  or  Samory,  mIio  was  then  reported  to  bo  agitating  the  Wassulu 
ami  other  I'ppei'  Niger  lands,  destroying  the  towns  of  the  uubelieyers,  and  enroll- 


^ 


Tin;  T<)U''()UI,KL'U  EMI'IHE. 


289 


oii^lj  over 
Midcrcd  so 
(•  or  7  Iftt 

Ulll  tdlldW 
In  (Til ft    of 

ly  still  l»c 
iiiIkt  iiniis 
ttd  ill  tin.' 

.I'tfii  with 
r\>.;r(ls  the 
f(Mi(l('riiif>f 
■<i[)utt'(l  by 

,■  refill r(l(  (I 
ciiinicctc'il 

lillt  llu'so 
illy  rcfiion 
wliicli  lins 
11  wrongly 
,  is  on  the 

the  name 
;'t'rol'l  iiiul 
to  be  over 

suiv(  ycd 
ivcr  ;!,()()0 
soliito  the 
rsc  oi'  tlio 
'onus,  liko 

zone,  the 
ii'ldini^  to 
lasins,  like 


iiiji;  the  Fiiithful  for  the  IFoly  War.  Thf  Fiviich  ha<l  no  direct  relations  with  him 
till  iNNl,  wlieii  tliey  sent  hini  u  native  envoy,  who  ran  fj'reat  risk  of  his  life  in 
nndertakiii;;'  tiiis  nii>sioii.  Soon  after  their  respective  forces  canu;  into  collision, 
with  the  ri'siilt  that  Sainory  ackiinwh'dj^cd  the  l''r(>neii  protectorate  on  the  h'lY 
bank  of  the  Niger  below  Taiikisso  m  Ualinji-.  wliik'  cunsnlidaiing  his  own  power  in 
the  11]  p  r  regions  and  eastwards  beyond  Wa.-siilu. 

Since  the  foundation  id'    this   .MnsMilnian   kingdom  a  veritable  social  revolution 
is   said    to    have    been   acconiplished    liy    the   new    Mandiugaii    sultan,  who   has 


Fift.   lol.  -A.Ncn-.xT  EwriiiK  of  tiii;  Toccovlh  ks. 
locale  1 :  7,ii<"i.ii(!0. 


West    of   ureenwich 


Sovereign 
State 


VtmbI 
States 


m^ 


Aiioirnt  (tnmniii-i  (if  tho 
Knipire  of  the  'l\nicoi)lcui>>. 


*1 


I: 
it 

is: 


120  MUes. 


enco  corn- 
ice, but  at 
e  empires 
JUS  origin. 
F  the  new 
•  AVaPSulu 
nd  enroll- 


ponerally  suppressed  the  slave  trach^  enlisting  the  captives  tis  soldiers,  arming 
then)  with  modern  rifles,  and  accustoming  them  to  European  discipline.  These 
tactics  will  probably  lead  to  fresh  coiicpiests,  especiiiUy  in  the  direction  of  Sierra- 
JiCone,  liy  the  absorption  of  the  Kuranko  and  Tiinni  territories. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  Toucoideur  empire  below  the  French  protectorate  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Xigcr  has  entered  on  a  state  of  dccadenre.  Tt  was  founded  in 
ISOO  by  the  pilgrim  Omar,  mIio  after  overrunning  the  Jallonke  country,  received  a 
lirst  serious  cheek   at    the    French  station  of  Medina  in    1S07.     IJut   although 


mmm:^ 


290 


WEST  AFiaCA. 


(lofoatod  on  tlio  Sciiogal,  Omar  was  still  victorious  on  the  Nijjor,  reducing  Kaarfa 
iiiul  Ik'lo-dugu,  and  advancing  through  Segu  and  ^Massina  tu  Tinil)uktu.  After 
his  death  t'aniily  dissensions,  followed  by  the  resolt  of  the  oppressed  IJanibnras  and 
Mandingans,  brought  about  the  disuK  inbernicnt  oi'  the  state,  which  was  broken 
into    detachod    fragments  by    the  advance  of   the    French    to    the  ^I'igor.     TLo 


t  ^*"^\ 


•'Mi 


Fig.  1 3J.— Inhabitants  of  tiik  Uri'En  Niokk. 
Scale  1  :  lO.miO.OOO. 


!■.     ■■  i"- 


'S-i 

TIMBUKTU     .  >^ 

.*                                                                                   B4.t,kour.«                      _^               r^                   ^ 
.Nioro     M--t                          ^3^^^,^^ 

"^                             "sokoi.  ■    f         rOUL^HS      \ 

Sar-J'""                       .Mou«-!.                          .:      A    .„.,,,,,. 

.DamFa      ,^                                   /      \     .      ..   . 

.vDafoulabt  ^                                                                   f^                */^       yj.   J 

fv.    Vv^    '      •                        «       •                 y^-~— 'Jann*/ 

1  ^ V^       ■'                                   Yamin»,__,^           ...                     -,  / 

\                    \                           '.            *                    j/^             S«gou  SiHoro                ^ 

■■•■•..       l^**        V*            >^ulil..ra-f'.  \        ">"T 
,'•.   ^"^              /Bamakou  / 

Ub  ;         /\           i              ;       ;           ;. 

10- 

Falaba  -      Wd                                   ;'       ^ '              ..-'Ten3rtra-. 

.i-y-                                                                     riLAwir 
r        \     /                    Timi-  ',«             V--.             ..--■'     "^ 

'C 

10"                                             .  West  at  Greenwich                                                            5" 

instability  of  the  states  in  this  region  is  well  exjiressed  by  the  Banibara  proverb  : 
"  No  kiiij;  onn  frnKH  flip  Jnliliii  twi'-e  in  Iiim  1ifi>tinif\"  Tt  is  now  no  longer  possible 
to  restore  unity  to  an  empire  consisting  of  the  three  widely  separated  sections 
of  Kaarta  in  the  north-west,  Segu  in  the  cast,  and  Jallonke  dugu  in  the  south- 
west. 


imjUl 


TIIK  l5AMI{.\n.\S. 


291 


IXHAIUTANTS    OK    TIIK    Ul'I'IIU    XlfJKK. 

Till' Inilk  of  llie  j)oj)ulati()ns  iiihal)itiii<;  tlic  Jolilui  and  its  affluonts  hclniij;  to 
\\u'  Maiidiii^'aii  racr.  Tlu*  Kuraiikos  alxmt  its  soiini's,  akin  to  those  on  tlu'  west 
slopo  ol  the  Loiiia  nioiiiitaiiis,  ui'o  ji^rouin-d  in  a  lar^fc  ninnl)cr  ol"  petty  indeju-nd*  nt 
states,  each  with  its  own  kin<,'.  eoiineil  of  el(i»>is,  t'etishineii,  special  usaj^es  and 
local  lends.  Tiu'ir  Kissi  neij^hhnurs,  of  a  more  jitaeei'ul  disposition,  have 
eontrat'tcd  iViondly  alliances  with  all  the  peoples  between  the  Sene<>:anil)ian  coast 
and  the  Konj^  mountains.  Farther  north  the  San<,Mra8,  formerly  const  it  utinji; 
little  aiitoiiomuus  republics,  have  been  comj)elle(l  to  reeoj^nise  the  authority  of 
JSamory. 

In  the  region  watered  by  iLe eastern  afHuents  of  theJoliba,  the  most  numerous 

Fig.  133. — Intkiiioii  of  a  Bamoaua  IIousk. 


I 


nation  appears  to  be  that  of  the  Wassulus,  in  whose  country  the  villages  are  so 
closely  packed  that,  as  the  natives  say,  "  the  king's  word  is  passed  on  from  voice 
to  voice"  to  the  liniita  of  the  state.  Although  regarded  by  Oaillie  as  of  Fulah 
stock,  the  Wassulus  have  many  features  in  common  with  the  Hamb'uas,  and  the 
curient  speech  is  Mandingan.  The  Saiakoles,  who  are  great  traders,  are  also  very 
numerous  in  this  district,  where  the  towns  are  inhabited  by  ^Mohammedans  and  the 
country  by  pagan  Wassuhis.  Altbimgh  of  ])eaceful  disposition,  and  like  true 
Fulahs  engaged  chiefly  in  stock-breeding,  the  Wassidus  can  tight  bravely  for  their 
national  independence,  and  are  said  to  have  hitherto  held  their  own  against  the 
attacks  of  Samory. 

North  of  the  VVassulus  the  chief  nation  ou  the  Niger  and  neighbouring  lauds 


,yj;si««5^.:^^%a^''' 


i<m,f 


292 


WEST  AFRICA. 


iiro  tlio  Haiiilnii'ii  yi'<rrot>s,  ulio  call  tliomsclvcs  Ba-Muiiao  (Ha-Muna),  or  "  People 
ol'  the  Great  Kock."  Traditionally  iroiu  ttie  .soutlieru  liii,']ilaiuls,  tliey  beloiifj:  to 
the  same  stock  as  tlie  Maii(liii<faus,  iind  speak  fuiulaineutally  the  same  laii<^ua<fe. 
lUit  they  are  i)hysieally  a  very  mixed  jieople,  dcserilx'd  by  some  as  even  typieal 
^.'ei>roes,  hy  others  as  characterised  by  thiii  lips  and  acjuiline  nose.  From  all  their 
lU'iyhbiiuis  tliey  are  (listinfjiii.slied  by  three  i)arallel  incisions  traced  on  the  cheek 
from  the  aii<4le  of  the  eye  to  tlie  corner  of  the  mouth.  The  lUnnbaras  are  also  an 
iiuhistiial  people,  skilful  blacksmiths,  manufacturers  of  j>;;m powder,  ropes,  and 
corda{>;o,  builders  of  boats,  bridjj;es,  and  well-constructed  wooden  lioiises,  usually  of 
re  'taiif^ular  .shape,  witli  gutters  for  carrying  oft"  the  rain-water,  and  a))ertures  to 
let  the  smoke  escape.  Like  tlio  Wassulus,  they  are  genth',  hospitable,  and 
generous,  liarbouring  no  malice  and  easily  given  to  laughter,  exceeding  all  other 
natives  in  boisterous  merriment.  15ut  although  renowned  for  iheir  valour,  and  as 
iniplaeal)le  in  war  as  they  arc  mild  in  peace,  tlie  Hainbaras  have  everywhere  been 
sidxlued  l)y  other  mitious,  in  the  Upper  Joliba  valleys  by  the  Fulahs  and 
^landingans,  in  French  Sudan  by  a  handful  of  whites,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
^<ig(r  and  in  Kaarta  by  the  Tone  luleurs.  A  few  small  tribes  between  Kaarta  and 
lii'le-dugu  can  alone  be  regarded  as  completely  ind(^pendent. 

Nearly  all  tl)e  15ami)aras.  at  least  of  Kaarta,  call  themselves  Mohammedans, 
but  are  sn  little  zealous  that  tlicir  Toucouleur  masters  look  upon  them  as  no  better 
than  Katirs.  Miiny  of  their  tribes,  after  recovering  their  p(ditical  independence, 
have  even  abandoned  the  rites  of  Islam,  resuming  the  pagan  ceremonies  and  profane 
amusements  of  their  ancestors.  At  their  feasts  they  get  drunk  on  </o/o  and  eat 
the  flesh  of  dogs  in*  jackals  to  show  their  hatred  of  the  oppressor's  religion.  Thus 
Mohammedanism,  which  is  so  rapidly  advancing  in  other  parts  of  Africa,  is  losing 
ground  amiingst  the  Hand)aras  as  well  as  the  Kurankos.  Certain  secret  societies 
al.so  still  celebrate  their  rites  in  the  forests,  and  most  of  the  people  have  their 
feti.shes — roots,  rags,  tufts  of  hair,  or  the  like,  kept  in  an  ox's  horn,  in  an  elephant's 
tusk,  or  more  frr^quently  in  a  calabash  or  a  large  earthenware  pot,  the  round  form 
and  yeUow  colour  of  which  represent  the  .sun,  creator  of  all  things.  Sometimes 
this  vase  contains  a  coiled  snake,  emblem  of  a  world  without  beginning  or  end; 
when  empty  it  is  approached  with  still  greater  awe,  for  then  it  is  the  abode 
of  the  unknown  god. 


Topography. 


In  the  Upper  Joliba  hn^'m  even  the  capitals  of  states  are  mostly  mere  tj-roups  of 
huts,  such  as  Xclia  and  Tantdfard,  close  to  the  source  of  the  river;  Lia,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  branches  forming  the  Joliba  ;  F'lrinuKi,  on  the  right  bank,  I'^O 
miles  below  the  source,  which  at  the  time  of  Winwood  Reade's  visit  was  a  mere 
heaj)  of  ruins.  Gd/ufxi,  near  the  head  of  the  Janda,  was  the  usual  residence  of 
Sultan  Samory  in  IHSl  ;  but  in  1S(S.>  it  had  b(>en  replaced  by  S<tiifiii/>flrn,  lying 
farther  north,  as  the  summer  capital,  and  by  Bimtndu,  lower  down,  us  his  winter 


■■■v<^-?  ■■".-■;■- -I'j.fl^' 


■iEif 


-pf?r;^gES^K95fS^Si5S-sr  r^^ 


S' ' 
tir, 

ii:. 


•fii 


(II 


'"-    s  v^l.  ■**  >-  i* 


TOWNS  ON  THK  Il'l-Kl!   Ni(;KU. 


'i'.tU 


rosidfiico.  No;ir  Iiissaiidii.  on  tlic  .Milo,  a  siiiall  aflliuiit  ol'  tlic  .N'i^Mi'  linm  ihc 
i'U>l,  lies  Kdiihun,  tlic  cliicl'  tradiiii,'  itlacc  in  tin-  (iiiinlrv,  inhaliittil  h\  Minnlin;ian 
and  Saiakitlt-  incnluints,  wlio  nmnopKliM'  tin  wIkiL'  Iradc  (d'  llic  I  pprr  Nijici- 
basin.  Kunkan  is  llic  liotlu'd  of  Muli;ininitdanism  in  tlii«i  rc;j;i()n,  and  is  iro- 
'incnllv  at  war  with  tlic  pa^-ni  'Inrdns.  or  'roion{j;os,  wlio  occniiy  the  soiitli- 
(■a>liMn    liii,flilandH,  snpposcd   »;>  he  the   cradle  of  the   now   widespread    l>:inihar.i 

race. 

In  the  hasin  of  the  I'.akhoy,  or  eastern  Nip'r,  the  chief  markets  are  'I'l  iii/rrn\ 
I>(l)t'iiii,ii\u\  A'"//'/,  that  is,  "  The  Mountain,"  a  lary^c  .Mandingan  town  fainf.U"  in  all 
the  surrounding  lands  for  its  wealth  in  gold,  woven  goods,  corn,  and  hoises. 
Kong  lies  on  one  of  the  nriin  trade  routes  traversing  this  almost  unknown  region, 
which  appears  to  he  one  of  the  most  prosperous  in  the  whole  of  Afric;i. 

Fi^'.  134.— TiiF.  Dio  Vi'.vTEnsiiKi)  hktwkkn  tiik  Nioer  and  Se.veoai. 

Seile  1  :  i!<in,(Ki«i. 


I      West    of  bffe"^ich 


S°D- 


a  Miles. 


Faldha,  on  the  right,  and  Fnhima,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Niger,  mark  the 
section  of  the  river  which  forms  the  eastern  limit  of  French  Sudan.  Here  it  is 
joined  by  the  Tankisso,  or  Bafing,  from  the  Jallonke-dugu  and  Baleya  districts, 
and  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  are  the  gold-fields  of  Hure,  which  like  those 
of  IJaiiihuk  are  worked  chiefly  by  the  women.  In  Bure  the  surface,  everywhere 
undermined  with  i)its,  frequently  gives  way,  and  wh(>n  any  of  the  miners  get 
crushed  they  are  feft  to  their  fate,  the  popular  belief  being  that  the  evil  genius 
wishes  to  kec^j)  them  as  slaves  in  the  other  world.  But  a  year  after  the  acci- 
dent the  pit  is  reopened,  and  if  much  gold  is  found  collected  about  the  dead, 
it  is  concluded  that  they  have  been  protected  from  the  demons  by  the  good 
spirits,  and  the  gold  is  accepted  as  an  indemnity  for  the  loss  sustained  by  the 
miners. 

The  hamlet  of  Didi,  residence  of  one  of  the  chief  rulers  of  Bure,  was  the  farthest 


m 


''*%> 


rr^rn^' 


n.VMAKU. 


2!»5 


ho  fppor 


now  "jirotcctcd  "  hy  Frimro,  is  in  the  liiinds  f)f  fonr  |M>\v('rfiil  fiiiiiilics,  whoso 
inrnilxTs  (Iclihcnitc  in  ((iinnmii.  Kast  of  the  .Inliha  tlic  cliicl'  market  fur  Mlavos  uiid 
gold-dust  is  h'liiiLiiiL',  some  <•(>  miles  from  the  liank  ni'  tin- river.  Jifiiilnn,  ','4  miles 
soutli-east  of  Faliiba,  till  n  eenlly  "  verv  lar^'c  and  very  rieli,"  was  destroyed  in 
ISS'J  hy  the  army  ot  Sainory  jii>t  four  days  i«fore  the  arrival  of  a  I'n  neli 
(htaelim'-nt  sent  to  its  relit  f. 

'J'h"  Man<lin!;an  Htate,  also  now  a  I'feneh  |)rot<'etorafi>,  has  some  thuirishin}!^ 
places  on  the  hd't  hank  of  the  loliha  and  in  the  interior  on  the  waterpartinir  helweeii 
the  .\i<,'er  and  Sempd  iiasins.  Sii<  li  are  /viu'Ih/ki,  on  the  Joliha,  and  Si/u  on  a  l)Inlf 
rising;  ahove  an  extensive  alluvial  ])lain  to  the  west.  Hnnidkii  [liinnnki)),  formerly 
apopulous  trading-pl.'.ee  mueh  tVeipiented  in  the  time  of  M'  'igo  I'ark,  has  again 


Fiif.   i:!tl.-R,vMAKi-. 

So'ilo  I  :  |IK).(HI0. 


,,^i.   .^.:Kt^-  '''^V^;. tp^)  ^^^W^-'P . 


iO  \uesl  jT   L"-ee"^  c- 


if 


:i  Miles. 


/(V 


(</ 


■  \.a- 


Scgu,  but 


a('(|uiiod  some  importance,  the  French  having  chosen  it  ns  the  capital  *d  tluir 
poKsesMons  on  the  Kiger.  In  1<SH8  the  total  pojndution  of  the  town  and 
neighbouring  hamlets  scarcely  exceeded  eight  hundred  souls.  Yet  the  little 
Hand)arii  state  had  hitherto  succeeded  in  maintaining  its  ])olitical  indeperdence 
Neither  Ahmachi's  Touconleurs  nor  Samory's  ^fussulnian  ^landingans  had  been 
able  to  ca])ture  it  when  the  French  appear*  d  on  the  scene  and  began  to  erect  the 
fort.  At  that  time  the  plain  around  Humaku  seemed  almost  uninhabited  ;  now  it 
is  intersected  by  routes  lined  with  trees,  soiiie  ])lantations  have  been  laid  t  nt  roinid 
about  the  white  walls  of  the  fortress,  and  the  little  riverain  jwrt  is  already 
crowded  with  boat.s.  In  ISSf  the  total  exchanges  amounted  to  no  less  tluiu 
£200, VW). 

lielow  liamaku  and   the  neighbouring  Sotubu  cascade  tho  first  large  villages 


'2'J13 


WKHT  Al'UirA. 


art'  liiiiiiiiidi  rill  tlic  rij^Mit  niid  Kitlikoro  on  tlio  left  Imiik.  Ht'iv  tli(>  French  lmv( 
t'cpiniflid  II  slalinn  to  cnniMiand  tlic  coininiinications  o|  llic  Nij^'cr  with  Hilc-(lM>,ni, 
thi' Irnitoiy  ol'  ihi"  Ufh'ii  iK'nph^,  which  stritclicn  wotwanls  in  the  direct  ion  o|' 
the  HHirces  of  the  Sene;;ahse  Itaide.  This  hilly  di>tiict  is  inhahilt-d  hy  litthi 
(•oinniiinities  of  re])ul>lican  l!innhai'as,  who  have  joined  in  a  common  confecloracy 
aj;ain--t  tlie  ToiicouKuis.  and  who  have  thns  siicceech'd  in  safej^Miardin;;;  their 
])olitical  and  reli^Mons  indc  |Miidcnce.  In  the  district  ^•ro\VH  a  species  of  wihl 
tobacco,  wliich  is  believed  hy  Itarlh  and  many  other  naturalists  to  he  of  Africm 
orij^in. 

Tlio   mined  city   of    YnmiiKt    (Nt/aiiiiiiii)    on   the    left    hank,    <>()  miles   below 
Kulikoro,   belonged  till   recently   to   the  empiro   of  Segu  ;    but   in    IMSI.  on  the 

Tift.  Vi-.—Hmv. 

HciiU;  I  ;  V4".(HK(. 


6abou|ouncJa 


'<ou|anioFAlMlaui      , 


Kounibau|ou 


Karfiibou£ou 

^ 


Sonimb^IA 


Cast     of"    bre'^nwich 


IO°50' 


IO°L,b' 


0  Miles. 


ai)pearanco  of  u  Freuch  gunboat,  its  lianibara  and  Sarakole  inhabitants  expelled 
the  Toucouleur  garrison,  and  placed  themselves  under  the  protection  of  F'rance. 
Yaniina  is  the  natural  port  of  all  the  upper  liele-dugu  and  F\i-dugir  country,  as 
well  as  of  the  markets  near  the  desert.  Some  -W  miles  from  the  river  lies 
lidiiuha  with  eight  thousand  inhabitants,  nearly  all  Sarakolen;  and  on  the  route 
leading  tlunicc  to  Kaarta  follow  some  other  large  villages,  and  even  towns,  in  n 
populous  district  raising  far  more  millet  than  is  needed  for  the  local  consump- 
tion. 

Although  in  a  state  of  decadence,  Scgu  is  still  cue  of  the  great  riverain  cities 
of  the  Niger.  Till  recently  it  was  the  capital  of  a  vast  empire,  covering  an  area 
of  about  '200,000  square  miles  between  Kaarta  and  Wassulu  in  one  direction,  and 


i^'^     i  ^   -it-'fr^i.JfliA-. 


MASSINA. 


207 


Ix'tworn  .Iull(tiikt'-(l\i<»ii  niul  ^rassinii  in  iinotlicr  ;  hut  it  necupics  smcIi  iii\  lulvnn- 
ta^'couH  position  tor  triido,  tliat  liowcvcr  wasted  I»v  war  and  dotliroiicd  t'lnm  iis 
••oval  state,  Sejfii  must  always  recover  t'roiu  its  political  disasters,  and  coiuinue  to 
l)e  a  fjreat  centre  of  population  and  trallic .  it  lies  on  the  ri<rht  hank,  scarcely  '-^4 
niilcN  helow  the  Bakhoy  conHuenee,  at  the  conver<j;injj^  ]U)int  of  all  tlie  trade  routes 
from  the  IpiuT  Nifjfcr  valleys,  hetween  Futa-Iallon  and  the  .Mahi  uplands.  The 
larj^je  market  of  /i'///r////',  alxmt  I'^O  miles  to  the  south-east,  is  the  clii(>f  station  on 
the  hi<;hway  leadinj;  to  the  mysterious  Mandin<i-an  city  of  Kono.  '|"he  wars  that 
tor  the  last   halt' century  have  wasted  all  the  surroundinj;  lancU  have  fortunately 


I'll.'.     l.'iH.  -  SAXSANDta. 
Scnlp  1  :  27n,fXiO, 


Vstentiguila 


SANSANDIO 


Serekhalla 


ir?' 


East    of   br■ee^wic^^ 


II     15- 


,  8  Miles 


spared  the  Segu  district,  which  according  to  Mage  had  a  po])ulation  of  one 
luuidred  thousand  in  IStj.j,  of  which  thirty-six  thousand  apj^eared  to  he  centred  in 
the  city  and  its  outskirts. 

Segu  really  consists  of  several  distin  '  t  ..vns,  such  as  Sri/n  Koro,  or  "  0/d 
Srrjii,"  opposite  Fararco,  Sei/ii  Biuju,  facing  KaluhiKju,  Sc/fii  Knm  or  "  Nrir  Sff/ii," 
and  lastly  Ser/ii  Sikovo,  present  residence  of  the  prince  and  official  capital  of  the 
state,  the  whole  occupying  a  space  of  about  10  miles  along  the  right  bank  of  the 
river. 

Lower  down  on  the  same  side  is  the  village  of  Somoiio  fishers  and  boatmen, 
wlio,  for  services  reno  jred  to  the  Toucouleur  conquerors,  have  obtained  the 
monopoly  of  the  riverain  industries.  But  the  Toucouleurs  thcmseHes  are  no 
longer  masters  of  Segu.  The  foundation  of  the  French  military  po  ■!  in  Upper 
Senegal,  the  growth  of  the  new  Mandingan  empire  under  Samory,  and  the  revolts 

83— AF 


.;;&3-r^*iJS5%B^»SSP?S5TB''' S 


% 


Ill 


I) 


IS  Mn 


I 


298 


WEST  AFRICA. 


in  Belo-diif^u  and  conterminous  lands,  have  completely  isolated  the  Toucouleurs  of 
Sogu  from  tlicir  own  country.  They  are  now  prisoners  in  their  conquest,  and 
like  tlio  Manchus  in  China,  arc  gradually  merging  in  the  surrounding  IJanibara 
l)opulatif»n. 

S(nix(ni(/if/  also  nceupies  a  vitally  important  position  on  the  left  bank  -i'-i 
miles  below  Sogu  Sikoro.  Ilenco  although  lately  destroyed  by  the  Toucou- 
leurs, it  cannot  fail  to  revive  either  on  the  same  site  or  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood. 

The  abrupt  bend  of  the  Niger  at  this  plaee  makes  it  the  converging  point 
of  the  routes  from  tlie  Sahara,  and  the  natural  markets  for  the  iiihal)itants  of 
Sudan  and  the  nortliern  steppe  are  situated  in  the  neighbouring  /one  iuter- 
Tnexliate  between  the  hills  and  the  plain.  Within  (10  miles  to  the  north-west  lies 
tlie  great  mart  of  Sci/ala,  and  farther  west  Ddiiifuri,  that  is,  the  district  of  Damfa 
or  Ddmpii,  another  Sarakole  town  lying  at  the  point  of  intersection  of  .several 
highways,  and  during  the  dry  season  much  freipiented  by  the  Ulad-Mahnuids 
and  otlier  nomad  tribas.  Damfari,  which  raises  large  crops  of  millet,  was  a  very 
nourishing  country  In  iScS;*),  when  it  was  visited  by  M.  IJayol  and  placed  under 
French  protection  by  agreement  with  the  local  chiefs. 

A  still  more  populous  and  commercial  place  is  Munliit,  which  lies  north  of 
Damfa  in  the  steppe  region,  where  the  sands  of  the  desert  first  begin  to  encroach 
on  the  cultivated  lands.  The  town,  cimtaining  two  thousand  five  hundred 
Sar.'iki  !t''s,  is  encircled  by  seven  Moorish  encampments  containing  at  least  twelve 
liundred  souls,  and  the  winding  streets  form  a  continuous  bazaar,  where  may  be 
purchased  carpets,  jewellery,  embroidered  leather-work,  and  other  ^lauritanian 
wares.  North-westwards,  in  the  direction  of  Kaarta,  stretches  the  Baklumu 
territory,  which  forms  part  of  l"ll-Ilodh,  a  /one  of  transition  between  Sudan  and 
the  Sahara,  and  for  ages  a  common  battle-ground  for  the  surrounding  Arab, 
Hambara,  Fulah,  and  Toucouleur  peoples.  Biilntiiiif,  capital  of  Bakhunu,  lies 
towards  the  west  about  (iO  miles  east  of  Xioro,  and  between  it  and  Murdia  the 
Sultan  of  Segu  has  founded  the  new  market  of  (iliiiK',  which  being  free  from  all 
custom-liouse  dues,  has  rapidly  accpiired  great  importance.  The  sedentary 
population  of  four  thousand  is  sometimes  swollen  during  market  days  to  fifteen 
or  twenty  thousand. 

One  of  the  routes  leading  from  Sansandig  to  tlie  Walata  oasis  passes  through 
the  great  city  of  Gmnhii,  liartli's  Knmba,  inhabited  by  about  twenty  thousand 
Uambaras,  speaking  Arabic  and  cultivating  vast  fields  of  sorgho.  Farther  cast 
the  direct  route  between  Sansandig  and  Timbuktu  traverses  the  commercial  city  of 
Sokolo,  the  Krtla  of  the  Arabs,  in  mediaeval  times  one  of  the  capitals  of  the 
Mandingau  empire,  and  still  containing  a  population  of  six  thousand.  Fara-bugu, 
lying  a  little  to  the  north,  is  the  most  advanced  settlement  of  the  IJarabara  nation 
towards  the  domain  of  the  Moors. 

lu  the  section  of  the  Niger  below  Sansandig,  flowing  for  60  miles  eastward'^, 
the  chief  riverain  town  is  Sibili,  cajntal  of  a  petty  Bambara  state.  Farther  down, 
where  the  river  resumes   its  north-easterly   course,  lies  Diafarahe,  the  farthest 


:!!'#"^i;; 


';;j§iiS#^»l''V,i^id#SP3?iiM€'y  ^  ^ 


icouleurs  ot 
nquest,  und 
ff  Jianibura 

ft  bunk  -V-i 
lie  Toucou- 
iiito  noigh- 

rging  point 
lubitunts  of 
zone  intor- 
■tb-west  lifs 
L't  of  Ddinfa 

I  of  several 
i(l-Mabnuuls 

was  a  very 
)laee(l  under 

lies  north  of 
to  encroucb 

ive  hundred 
k\ist  twelve 

here  may  be 
Mauritanian 

he    Bakhuuti 

II  Sudan  and 
nding  Ariib, 
bkhunu,  lies 
I  Murdia  the 

free  from  all 
he  sedentary 
ays  to  fifteen 

asses  through 
nty  thousand 
Farther  cast 
nercial  city  of 
ipitals  of  the 
.  Fai'fi-bugu, 
ambara  nation 

iles  eastward'*, 
Further  down, 
?,  the  farthest 


S'^wmw"  -p^:^;!ism^m>^-r"mr^'-'i»'mi^^i^'~:. 


it' 


L 


MASSINA. 


299 


point  from  Bumakii  reucLod  in  18MG  by  the  Fronch  steamer  plying  on  the  Upper 
Niger.  Here  the  waters  begin  to  ramify,  one  branch  passing  near  the  holy  eity 
of  Diaho  northwards  in  the  direction  of  Tciioilni,  one  of  the  large  nuirkets  in  the 
Hurgu  territory.  Another  branch  running  eastwards  leads  to  the  famous  old  city 
of  Ji'Hiu',  whose  name,  according  to  some  authorities,  is  the  original  of  the  word 
(luinoyc,  or  (iuine':  ! 'signed  bj'  the  Portuguese  to  so  large  a  part  of  the  conti- 
nent. Now,  liowcvcr,  Jeniie,  wliich  has  hitherto  been  visited  by  <'ailli('  ahme,  is 
a  decayed  pluce,  reduced  I)V  civil  and  foreign  wars,  by  tlie  stoppage  of  trade  on 
the  river,  perhaps  also  by  the  shiftings  of  the  Huviul  branches  in  this  flat  region, 
where  the  cliannels  are  incessantly  changing.  Yet  even  at  the  time  of  Caillie's 
visit  in  1S",'S,  it  still  covered  a  large  space  with  enclosures  at  least  o  miles  in 
circumferemo,  although  it  had  already  ceased  to  be  a  royal  ca])it;d.  Tlic  Fulah 
concpierors  held  its  old  Hambara  inhabitants  in  subjection,  and  enforced  the  strict 
observance  of  the  Mohammedan  worship. 

After  abandoning  Jeune,  King  Sego-Ahmadu  founded  the  new  residence  of 
Ifomddllafii,  that  is,  el-HaiinlH-Lilldlii,  or  '•  I'raised  be  Allah,"  a  little  to  the  east  of 
the  confluence  of  tlie  two  Xigers.  But  this  new  capital  of  Massina  (or  Moas^inu, 
as  Len/  always  heard  it  called),  was  but  short-lived,  having  been  captured  in  1S(>2 
by  the  great  Fuluh  conqueror,  Fil-IIaj  Omar.  It  is  now  a  heap  of  ruins,  suc(;eede(l 
as  the  capital  of  Massina  by  Ji(aiih'(i(/(ii-(i,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Bakhoy,  (iO 
miles  east  of  .Jeiine.  But  the  Massina  state  itself  has  no  political  unity,  being 
ruled  in  one  place  by  a  Toucouleur  king  of  the  Omar  dynasty,  in  another  by 
Fulah  chiefs,  and  elsewhere  occupied  by  the  distinct  petty  Bambara  or  Songhai 
states. 

Along  the  routes  running  through  Massina  from  Jenne  towards  Timbuktu  follow 
eastwards  the  towns  of  Niakomjo,  Jiore,  and  Dirciifsn,  all  inentioned  bv  Barth's 
informers;  westwards,  i^rM.v//.//;?»,  visited  by  Lenz  in  1(S80.  Below  J/of//,  or /s.s«^«, 
at  the  confluence  of  both  Nigers,  the  chief  places  are  Jvotia,  the  most  advanced 
Songhai  settlement  towards  the  west,  and  beyond  Lake  Debo  the  large  eit^'  of 
Yoani,  or  Yovnrii,  which,  according  to  tlie  seasons,  lies  on  a  sandy  plain  or  on  a 
marshy  bank  between  stagnant  and  running  waters. 


TiiK  Minni.K  Niger. — TiMin  ktti. — TiiK  Tuakegs  and  Songhais. 

Most  of  the  vast  region  traversed  by  the  Niger  between  Timbuktu  and  Gomba 
is  almost  uninhabited,  although  the  southern  districts  appear  in  many  places  to  be 
densely  peopled.  The  country  has  been  visited  by  Barth  ah)ne,  who  on  his  journey 
from  iSai  to  Timbuktu,  followed  the  chord  of  the  arc  described  by  the  great 
eastern  bend  of  the  river.  South  of  this  bend  the  El-IIajri,  or  Ilombori  Hills, 
called  also  in  a  special  sense  Tondi,  or  "  The  Mountain,"  form  a  natural  limit 
between  the  arid  Saharian  and  cultivated  Sudanese  zones.  These  hills,  rising  some 
800  or  1,000  feet  above  the  level  or  slightly  undulating  plain,  itself  over  1,600 
feet  above  sea-level,  do  not  constitute  a  continuous  range,  but  a  series  of  isolated 


'msK'-iS^w^  - 


'^„5( 


300 


WEST  AFRICA. 


cniinoncos  of  fantastio  shape,  in  son)(>  places  prcscntinq;  tlic  outlines  of  vast  rocky 
8tron<^h()l(ls  flanked  with  square  towers.  Th(>  natives  have  even  convertoil  tlieni 
into  citadi^ls,  wliere  they  det'end  themselves  from  the  attacks  of  the  Fulali 
con(piei'ors.  South  of  the  Ilomhori  Hills  the  plain  is  dotted  over  with  sonic 
lesser  eminences,  such  as  the  granite,  jjneiss,  and  s;nidst(me  Aril)inda  heights 
falling  abruptly  southwards  and  presenting  a  more  gentle  incline  towards  the 
north. 

The  regiim  stretching  north-west  of  Tind)>dvtu  in  the  direction  of  the  AValata 
and  Tishit  oases  is  peopled  by  Arabs,  or  at  least  a  half-caste  IJerber  race  of  Arab 
speech,  ^fany  Arab  traders  also  penetrate  across  the  river  southwards  to  the 
Ilcmibori  Hills.  IJnt  east  of  the  meridian  of  Timbuktu  the  whole  of  the  Sahariun 
region  belongs  to  the  Imohagh   (Imoshaih)    Hcrbers,   whose  countless  tribes  are 


■"i^- 


151 
50l 


Tig.   130  — TiiK  IfoMnoRi  Mountains. 
Scale  1  ;  IKIO.OOO. 


y:^ 


X  Jis  a  jrsirji  tsjt 


/.  r  -irBuiii 


rt^ 


-*    -5   ^ 


West    oT    breenwich  £** 


18  MilcR. 


scattered  for  nearly  1,'2()0  miles  in  every  direction  northwards  to  the  Algeiiiin 
frontier,  eastwards  to  the  neighbourhood  of  liake  Tsad.  Those  of  the  Niger  region 
all  belong  to  the  AwcUimiden  confederation,  some  still  bearing  the  name  of 
Tademakka  (Tadcmekket ),  a  vanished  city  which  lay  west  of  the  Air  Mountaius. 
These  are  kinsmen  of  the  Khumiriun  Dedmakas,  now  assimilated  in  s])ccch  and 
usiiges  to  the  Arabs. 

Below  Timbuktu  the  Tmohagli.s  have  crossed  the  Niger  and  reduced  the  country 
fur  to  the  south  of  the  river.  They  not  (mly  occupy  tlie  sandy  tracts  ami  savannas, 
but  have  penetrated  into  the  Ilombori  valleys,  and  beyond  them  into  the  fertile 
Libtako  phiins.  J  lore,  however,  few  of  them  have  ]ires(>rve(l  the  camel,  faithful 
associate  of  all  other  Tuaregs,  breeding  horned  cattle  and  sheep  instead,  and  in 
some  places  even  intermarrying  with  the  native  Negro  jiopulations.  Henc(>, 
perhap.s,  all  these  southern  Berbers  have  received  from  their  northern  kindred  the 


.iu2tij,(f'^^ 


THE  SONORATS. 


801 


vast  rocky 
ortoil  tlu'in 
the  F\iliili 
with  sonic 
idu  hci<j;hts 
osviirds  tl)(> 


the  AVi.hita 
ICO  of  Aral) 
iird.s  to  the 
lie  Sahariun 
s  trihcs  are 


colkH'tivc  name  of  Ire<jlienatcii,  or  "  ^fixcd."  Tlicy  also  appear  to  ho  <i;j'a(hially 
adopting;  the  Fuhih  and  .Son<>liai  hin^iiaj^cs,  ahhou^h  some  anionjifsf  them  still 
|)reserve  the  Herher  type  in  all  its  purity.  They  live  almost  exclusively  on  a  Hesh 
and  milk  diet,  and  like  those  of  Ahaj;<,'ar  are  divided  into  two  castes,  that  of  the 
mihles,  whose  husiiiesw  is  war,  and  that  of  their  retainers  or  slaves,  tillers  of  the 
hnxh 

The  Sonji'hais  (Sonrhai,  Sourhai)  occn])y  hoth  hanks  of  the  Middle  ^si<fer 
lietween  Timbuktu  and  the  Sokoto  confluence,  jienetratinj^  far  inland  within  the 
jrreat  bend,  where  their  speech  is  current  as  far  as  the  lacustrine  district  helow 
,Icnne.  Althouf^h  now  a  degraded  people,  the  Synghais  had  their  epoch  of 
splendour  and  dominion.     After  overthrowing  the  Mandingan  emi)eror,  enthionod 

Fisr.  140. — TiMmiKTu. 

Snilc  1  :  r,rii>.i(n>.  . 


^i* 


15" 
'so 


:3r 


1 5' 


he  Algeiian 
Niger  region 
the  name  of 
r  Mountains. 
1   s])eech  and 

I  the  country 
nd  savannas, 
to  tlie  fertile 
mel,  faithful 
stead,  and  in 
ms.  Hence, 
1  kindred  the 


West     of     breenwich 


12  Miles. 


in  Mali,  the  Songhai  chief,  Askia,  founded  in  1402,  with  Oogo  for  its  capital,  a 
mighty  kingdom  stretching  far  up  towards  the  source  and  down  towards  the 
niouili  of  the  great  artery  and  away  to  the  oases  of  the  desert,  so  that  "  travellers 
journeyed  six  months  across  his  dominions."  Askia  became  the  most  powerful  of 
•Vfrican  potentates,  and  to  celebrate  his  triumphs  he  undertook  the  jiilgriniage  to 
.Mecca  escorted  by  his  vassal  chiefs  and  fifteen  hundred  men-at-arms.  He  was 
renowned  tliroughout  the  East  for  his  generous  d(>eds,  and  he  attracted  to  his 
court  the  wise  and  the  learned,  who  made  Ciogo  and  Timbuktu  centres  of  light  for 
till  the  Xegro  lands. 

But  this  great  empire  lasted  not  quite  a  hundred  years,  having  at  last  yielded 
in  I."J!)1  to  a  small  hand  of  ^Maroccan  troops  commanded  by  Jodar.  a  Spaniard  from 
Almeria,  and  including  many  other  Andalusians  e(piipped  with  European  firearms. 


^rfe:;lS3^B«aSSffi55S>SMivs-: 


802 


WEST  AFRICA. 


These  Maroccan  Rumas,  as  thoy  were  palled,  suppliintod  (lie  dynasty  of  Askia. 
their  power  extendiiif?  to  Bakhumi,  Jeniie,  and  the  llonibori  .Mountains,  liut  all 
relations  soon  eeased  with  the  mother  etiuntry,  and  tlie  Kunias,  intennarryinj,'  with 
the  natives,  ;,'radually  lost  tlieir  supreniaey,  althoujjh  down  to  the  be<,Mnnin<;  of  the 
present  century  still  controlling  the  navigation  of  the  Niger  u  long  way  above  and 


Fig.  111.— Ki.-1Iaj  Ahii-el-Kadeii,  Kxvoy  of  Timhvktu 


s 


below  Timbuktu.  Then  came  the  conquering  Fulahs,  founders  of  th<<  Massir.a 
empire,  and  the  nomad  Tuaregs,  who  planted  themselves  on  both  banks  of  thy 
river,  so  that  the  Songhais  are  now  almost  everywhere  subject  to  peoples  more 
powerful  than  themselves. 

But  notwithstanding  their  political  decadence,  their  speech,  the  Kissur  or  Ki- 


ii^: ''  'i,--"ii.^t>'."'jMS'-,"?ii't^  r 


TIMBUKTU. 


303 


:  of  Askiii, 
IS.  ]Jut  ull 
ii'vinf?  with 
niiif?  of  till' 
,'  above  and 


i^ 


tli(<  Massir.a 
banks  of  thy 
peoples  more 

Kissur  or  Ki- 


Sonjjhai  of  Timbuktu,  is  still  widely  difTuspd,  altlioupfli  Iiirp;(>ly  affected  by  Arabic 
elciiiciits.  The  S()n<,'liais  arc  of  nearly  black  complexion,  with  delicately  chiselled 
leiturcK  enframed  in  long  kinky  hair.  Some  tribes  are  distin<>:uished  by  special 
tiittoo  marks,  and  in  the  eastern  districts  the  women  wear  a  metal  ornament  passed 
through  the  cartilage  of  the  nose.  In  their  present  degraded  state  the  Songhais 
are  a  dull,  sullen,  unfriendly  ])coplc,  described  by  Harth  as  the  least  hospitable 
of  all  the  Negroes  he  came  in  contact  with  during  all  his  long  wanderings.  On 
various  grounds  this  writer  argues  that  they  at  one  time  had  relatiiuis  with  the 
l]gy[)lians,  a  tlu'ory  which  receives  some  support  from  their  practice  uf  enibalniiug 
and  from  their  domestic  architecture. 

T()rof;iiAPJiv. 

Timhiih-tn  (Tonihi(htii),  the  most  famous  city  not  only  in  the  Songhai  country 
but  in  all  central  Africa,  is  known  only  to  Europeans  by  this  name,  the  true 
Songhai  form  of  which  ajjpears  to  be  Tiimhutit.  It  is  said  to  have  been  founded 
in  the  fifth  century  of  the  Ilegira  by  the  Tuaregs,  who  more  probably  captured  it 
at  that  period.  Mention  is  made  of  it  at  the  time  of  the  (ihana  empire,  in  the 
eleventh  and  twelfth  centuries,  and  hiter  under  the  dominion  of  the  Su-Sus.  But 
such  is  its  position,  at  the  sharp  angle  formed  by  the  Niger  at  the  c(mverging 
point  of  so  many  side  branches,  that  here  or  hereabouts  a  market-place  must 
always  have  existed. 

Under  the  Mandingan  kings  of  Mali  (Melle)  in  the  fourteenth  century, 
Timbuktu  was  a  rich  and  flourishing  place,  whose  fame  was  spread  far  and  wide, 
thanks  to  its  great  trade  in  gold  and  salt.  The  name  of  Timhiich  occurs  for  the 
first  time  on  a  (,'atah»nian  map  of  1:373.  But  a  city  containing  so  much  treasure 
could  not  long  escape  pillage.  It  was  plundered  in  the  tifteiMith  century  by  the 
Tuaregs  and  Songhais,  and  a  hundred  years  later  by  Jodar's  Andalusian  fusiliers, 
after  which  time  it  was  frequently  ctrntestcd  by  Tuaiegs,  Fulahs,  and  Toucou- 
leurs. 

After  the  Toueoideur  occupation  of  1868,  no  further  attempt  has  been  made 
to  resist  the  attaeks  of  the  surrounding  peoples,  the  municipal  authorities  paying 
tribute  now  to  one,  now  to  another,  and  indemnifying  themselves  by  the  profits  of 
the  local  trade  in  peaceful  times. 

The  population,  estimated  by  Barth  at  thirteen  thousand  in  18-">:},  and  at 
twenty  thousand  by  Lenz  in  ISSO,  consists  chiefly  of  Arabs  from  Marocco,  of 
Berabish  Arabs,  of  Songhais,  Tuaregs,  ^Mandingans,  Bambaras,  and  Fulahs, 
besides  a  few  Jews,  tolerated  since  the  middle  of  the  in-esent  century.  Apart 
from  Portuguese  envoys  in  the  fifteenth  century,  and  European  captives  in  later 
tinu>s,  Timbuktu  has  been  visited  in  the  present  century  only  by  Tjaing  in  1820, 
by  Caillie  in  18-J8,  by  Barth  in  LS-^g,  and  by  Lenz  in  1880.  But  although  Krause 
failed  to  reach  it  in  1887,  it  seems  probable  that  the  relations  opened  with  France, 
by  the  despatch  of  an  envoy  to  Paris  in  1884,  will  be  increased  with  the 
growth  of   trade  between    Bamaku  and   the   riverain  ports  lower  down.      The 


:;»iaEH«St5lSSSfSaSi^«i3':  #e«i.W5ss«i:r%'*Mee;'^»tsV 


804 


\VJ;ST  AFHUA. 


...     ■f'S.:, 


NifjiM'  iit  tliis  point  was  rciicliod  by  a  Kreiich  f^tiubout  fmm  Haiiiaku  for  tho  first 
time  ill  ISN?. 

Tiiiibiiklii  lies  !)  miles  iiortli  ol'  tlio  Nij,'*'!  on  a  tvvrnvc  or  c.scarpiiiiMit  ol  llio 
desert  about  S(»()  tVet  above  the  sea.  Formerly  a  iiavij^ablc  lateral  l>r.iiuli  reached 
the  foot  of  this  escarpment,  and  in  1(140  a  h)\v-lyin^  (piarter  of  the  city  was  e\eu 
iniindati'd.  Ibit  the  clinnnel  lias  irradually  silted  up,  and  even  duiini,'  the  Hoods 
boat.s  can  now  reach  no  farther  than  the  basin  of  h'ti/ini  (h'/ilxinn.  tlic  ])ort  of 
Timbuktu  on  the  .\ii,'er.  Hoth  ])i)rt  and  city  have  <frcatly  diminishc<l  in  size, 
and  travellers  arrivinj^  from  the  north  and  west  now  traverse  extensive  spaces 
cover(>d  with  refuse.  The  position  of  the  great  moscpie,  fornii'rly  in  the  eeiitn, 
now  near  the  outskirts,  also  shows  how  jfreatly  the  place  has  been  reduced  in 
recent  times.  This  mosque,  dominated  by  a  remarkable  earthern  tower  of 
])yramidal  form,  is  the  only  noteworthy  momiment  in  Timbuktu,  which  consists 
mainly  of  a  labyrinth  of  terraced  houses  and  huts  with  pointed  root's. 

Notwitlistandin{»  its  decayed  state,  Timbuktu  is  still  the  centre  of  a  consider- 
able transit  trade  between  the  desert  and  Sudan,  the  salt  from  Taudeni  and  other 
Saharian  deposits  hviufr  here  exchanged  for  millet,  kola-nuts,  textiles  from  the 
southern  iegi(»ns,  and  even  Miiropean  wares  penetrating  up  the  Niger.  Cowries, 
hitherto  the  general  currency,  are  being  gradually  rei)laced  by  Hve-franc  pieces, 
a  sure  indication  of  the  growing  influence  of  the  French  in  the  rp])er  and  Middle 
Niger  basin.  The  local  industries  are  almost  confined  to  the  manufacture  of  those 
leathern  jiouches  and  amulet  bugs  which  are  distributed  throughoui  the  Sudanese 
markets  from  Walatu  or  Hint,  the  northern  rival  of  Timbuktu.  Wahita,  already 
a  fanKtus  market  in  the  fifteenth  century,  is  the  chief  staticm  on  the  roundabout 
trade  route  between  Timbuktu  and  Saint  Kouis,  which  has  to  b;'  bdlowed  from 
oasis  to  oasis  when  the  natural  highways  up  the  Niger  and  down  the  Senegal  are 
closed  by  local  wars. 

The  municipal  administratinn  of  Tind)uktu  is  entrusted  to  a  ^v////V/,  or  heredi- 
tary mayor,  a  descendant  of  one  of  tho.se  Andalusian  "Kunii"  captains  who 
contributed  to  overthrow  the  Songhai  empire.  IJut  the  authority  of  this  official 
is  controlled  by  a  Tuareg  chief  or  sultan,  and  by  the  family  of  the  Hakhai 
marabouts,  who  have  adherents  in  every  part  of  the  Sahara,  and  even  in  ^Fauri- 
tania.  Timbuktu  is  also  a  learned  city,  with  rich  libraries  and  expounders  of  tho 
law,  who  dispute  on  points  of  dogma  with  the  same  subtlety  as  the  mediaval 
Christian  theologians. 

(jIoijo  {(ido,  (iiir/io),  capital  of  the  old  Songhai  empire,  (50  miles  south  of  the 
IJuruin  district,  had  formerly  a  circumference  of  over  0  miles,  comprising  a  pagan 
quarter  on  the  west,  and  a  ^lohammedan  on  the  east  bank,  besides  an  insular 
quarter  between  the  two  fiuvial  branches.  At  present  little  remains  of  all  this 
except  three  hundrefl  round  huts  s('atter(>d  amongst  the  palm  groves  on  the  left 
side,  and  a  minaret  like  that  at  Agades,  a  kind  of  massive  pyramid  •)()  tec^t  high 
disposed  in  seven  compartments,  beneath  which  Askia,  founder  of  the  ephemeral 
Soughai  en)pire,  lies  buried. 

13elow  (jogo,  both  banks  are  almost  uninhabited  for  a  distance  of   180  miles, 


itf,j-  I"  t 


<•  *,I»iBSi^'»'lg,*,      r*" 


-'.J^i^l^.^!^ 


(i.VUU.— I>OUK.— SAI. 


80.-, 


)!•  tlu'  first 

•lit  ol'  llio 
•li  roaclicd 
•  wiis  even 

tlic  Hiiuds 
u'  i)(>rt  (»t 
'd  ill  si/0, 
ive  sjjiicL's 
he  centre, 
•educed   in 

tower  of 
•li  consists 

I  eonsider- 

iind  oilier 

i'l'nni  the 

Cowries, 

IMC  pieces, 

nd  M  iddle 

re  of  those 

Sudanese 

ta,  alroiidv 

oniidalxiut 

\\Ycd  from 

enegal  are 

or  heredi- 
tains  who 
lii>  ottieial 
ic    Hakhai 

in  ^Fauri- 
lers  of  the 

medineval 

ith  of  the 
ig  a  pagan 
an  insular 
i)f  all  this 
»n  the  left 
feet  higli 
ephemeral 

180  miles, 


when  some  lar-^e  xilligos  and  ciilli\ale.l  Irsets  nnnniinre  the  approach  to  the  twin 
cities  of  (,'iini  and  Siii<fir,  stamliiig  on  some  rocky  islets  in  niid-streain.  On  huth 
sides  of  the  river  the  jdain  is  here  studdeil  with  hahitations,  and  yields  an  ahuii- 
daiice  of  millet  for  the  local  eonsumption  and  for  ex|)ortalion  to  'riinhiiktu  and 
the  Tuareg  country.  The  two  insular  cities  comprise  altogether  several  tliousiind 
houses,  willi  a  collective  population  estimated  h\  [>arth  at  sixteen  or  eighteen 
thousand.  They  enjoy  a  certain  political  independeiiee,  hy  taking  advantage  of 
the  rivalries  of  the  neighhouring  Tuareg  chief  and  tiie  llaussa  governor  of  Sui, 
over  l'-*0  miles  lower  down.  Tlie  route  through  the  independent  Songhai  terri- 
tory, west  of  Sinder,  leads   to  JJuir,  capital  of   Libtako,  a  province  belonging  at 

Fiir    HJ.     'I'liK  Hacks  of  Wi:  t  AntiCA. 
Scale  1  :  IHiKHi.fKK) 


iw.-^?*-:  ;::■:■: 


Hi:r  +  -t--^' 


'-^a4. 


Westof  &^eenwlc^^ 


5- 


ArabN  iinil 
Hci'lierB. 


ittH  TuarcgB 

mt.tti  Bambiiros,  Aisiliizcil 
EUHJ  Snnb'hiiis. 


Soiigli;iis. 
Fulttli". 

ToUOOlllPlllH. 

MnndinRnns, 
Mossi. 


□ 


lliiinlmiiis, 
Siiinkoli'a. 

■Wolnfs, 

Serprs. 

Coast  tribes ;  Felnps, 
Biiliintus,  Timiii,  A;o. 


aCO  .MilPH. 


least  nominally  to  the  llaussa  kingdom  of  Gando.  Don',  with  a  population  of 
four  thousand,  mostly  Songhais,  is  the  most  frequented  maiket  in  the  whole 
region  comprised  within  the  great  bend  of  the  Xiger. 

The  town  of  Sui,  meaning  in  the  Songhai  language  "  River,"  stands  at  the 
chief  i)assage  across  the  river  below  Ihirum.  The  transit  is  made  in  boatf^  40  to 
40  feet  long,  formed 'by  two  hollow  trunks  placed  end  on  end.  The  town  lying 
on  the  low  west  hank  exposed  to  inundations  during  the  floods,  consists  of  detached 
groups  of  huts  divided  into  two  sections  by  a  depression  alternately  dry  and  tilled 
with  muddy  water.  It  owes  its  importance  chiefly  to  the  intermediate  position  it 
occuoied  on  the  trade  route  between  Sokoto  and  Timbuktu.     It  is  also  the  natural 


!«.,*«- 


"r^jB/~'?BW^1P^i^Wa*:fWC.>*Kff**^m?■,f^^ 


^i: 


800 


•  ■!V, 


'S 


^|5 


lliiiiitil 


WEST  Al'UICA. 


ojitpnrt  for  llio  M  >ssi  (Mon'-lm)  country,  wliicli  slrctchcs  south-wi'stwards  in  tlio 
(liri'ctioii  of  the  Kong  iipliiiulK.  Tlio  Mohm!  people  ttrt<  appiin'iitly  allii-d  to  their 
Toiiilto  ii('ij;liboiirs  in  tlio  nortli-\v(Kt,  a:i<l  to  the  (iurniaH  in  the  nortli-east,  all 
sjH'akiii^'  (liiilects  of  a  eoniinon  idiom.  They  are  a  historical  inition,  alrea'lv 
nunlioned  in  the  fourteenth  eenlury.  when  a  Mossi  army  crossed  the  Niger  and 
8(  i/ed  Timbuktu.  I'roni  reports  received  during  their  early  explorations  on  the 
walMtard,  the  rorlugiu'se  t'lincied  that  the  Mossi  king  was  the  famous  I'rewter 
-John,  and  envoys  were  aitually  .sent  in  search  of  him.  When  summoned  hy  the 
Soiighai  I'Miperor  Askia  to  embrace  Islam,  the  Mossi  per)ple  "  after  consulting  the 
souls  of  their  ancestors,"  refused  to  comply,  thus  ininging  on  a  "  holy  war,"  in 
which  their  cities  were  destroyed  and  their  lands  wasted  hy  the  arms  of  tho 
fanatical  monarch.  Nevortheless  they  iiave  remained  jnigans,  except  in  the 
towns,  where  foreign  intluences  are  predominant.  Their  territory  is  groujted  in 
numerouis  petty  uutouomous  states  with  a  federate  organ i.satioi»,  each  i)aying  a 
slight  tribute  to  the  prince  of  WiniliDiloijIiit,  the  central  I'ity  of  the  country.  They 
lire  active  traders,  visiting  all  the  surrounding  fairs,  where  they  are  easily  recog- 
nised by  their  coloured  shirts  and  enormous  straw  hats,  like  those  of  the  Kubyh^s 
in  South  Mauritania. 

The  section  (d  the  Niger  between  S:.ii  and  the  Sokoto  confluence  has  hitherto 
been  navigated  by  no  European  since  the  time  of  Mungo  Park.  Numerous  towns 
are  mentioned  by  liarth,  situated  on  or  near  the  river  banks,  but  nothing  is  known 
as  to  their  exact  i)osition  and  relative  import-, nee,  except  as  regards  JiirofuH/ii, 
which  is  stated  to  be  a  nuuh  frequented  nur  kit  on  the  east  side,  about  IH  miles 
below  JSai. 

II.vissv  Land. 

Iluussa,  i)robably  the  Tuareg  Aussa,  that  is  Cis-Niger,  in  eontradistincticm  to 
(lunna  and  Aribinda,  meaning  Trans-Niger,  is  a  well-dotimd  natural  region 
watered  by  tlie  >Sokoto,  and  limited  north  by  the  Sahara,  east  by  the  Tsarl  basin, 
south  by  the  Bcnue  waterpartiug,  and  west  by  the  Niger.  But  these  frontiers, 
scarcely  anywhere  presenting  serious  obstacles,  have  been  frequently  crossed  at 
several  points,  and  while  various  African  races  have  .settled  in  Ilaussa-land,  the 
Ilaussawa  themselves  have  occupied  vast  territories  bt>vond  their  central  domain, 
so  that  the  jjolitical  boundaries  have  constantly  oscillated  with  fresh  ecmquests 
and  migrations.  At  present  this  region,  one  of  the  richest  and  most  densely 
peopled  in  Sudan,  enjoys  a  preponderating  influence  over  all  the  surrounding 
lands.  It  commands  numerous  states  beyond  its  natural  limits,  while  its  language, 
regarded  by  the  loc:d  populations  as  the  medium  of  trade  and  culture  in  a  pre- 
eminent sense,  has  been  diifu.sed  throughout  the  greater  part  of  Sudan. 

Hence  in  describing  Ilaussa  it  is  impossible  to  exclude  some  of  the  adjacent 
lands  presenting  the  same  climatic  and  ethnical  conditions,  and  sharing  in  the 
same  political  destinies.  The  area  of  the  whole  region,  co'uprising  all  the  Huvial 
basins  flowing  to  the  main  stream  between  the  Sokoto  and  Benue,  may  be  ajjproxi- 
mately   estinuited    at    100,000   square    miles.       Notwithstanding   certain   rough 


'■^'■•'i^'■^;l3•?:-i•!- 


(Is  in  tli(> 
I  til  ihrii- 
i-t'a>t,  all 
I,  alrcirly 
S'i^cr  inid 
)iis  on  tl.i' 
s  l'rest«'r 
t'd  hy  I  lie 
iiltiii^r  tli(> 

war,  "  in 
ns  of  tlio 
It  in  the 
rnii|ic(l  in 

jiayinj^  a 
y.  "  Thry 
ilv  rccdy;- 


Kiibyl 


(\S 


8  hitherto 

(Ills  ttiwns 

is  known 

Kil'otdHlli, 

18  miles 


tinetion  to 
ral  region 
'sad  basin, 

frontiers, 
crossed  at 
i-land,  tlie 
al  domain, 

conquests 
3t  densely 
irrounding 

language, 

in  a  pre- 

e  adjacent 
ing  in  the 
the  fiuviul 
le  approxi- 
iin   rough 


IIAUS8A  LAND.  807 

ostimntpn  of  ton  milliona  and  oven  twenty  millions,  nocording  to  the  desoriplions  of 


!♦ 


I/,  I 


< 


'mm 

A    'J  K'A'-i  t   ■  ,' 


Barth,  llohlfs,  and  other  travellers,  the  population,  excluding  the  Benue  basin,  can 
scarcely  bo  calculated  at  more  than  four  millions. 


s!'.S'^;*'ia»jm'*wsT*?*«5:?.wyi»f.K  ;"■■-.'!-%:. 


■  M.',<;-".?VF"«5H' 


^^r^> 


308 


WKfST   AT  Hit  A. 


'!*<■ 


Towards  iho  oiMt,  th(>  Xijjtr  Imsin  is  Ncpnrutrd  hy  no  coiitiiiuoiiM  fir  clciiily 
(It'tiiud  ili\i(lc  I'niiii  tliat  tii'  liiiko  Tnad,  iilthoiiu-li  the  watcrpnitiii^  is  tlouhtlc.vs 
iiioir  distinct  than  that  ItctwiH-n  tlio  Shari  and  llic  Ilmnc,  win  re  ccrlMii  nuirsliy 
and  larustrinc  tra«'ts  sconi  to  liclonj,'  to  Ixitli  sysftnis  at  once.  Ii,  i  •■  ,;ii:ss;.  the 
slopcH  air  K(»  iniiM'if'optiblt'  tliat  in  many  plaroM  it  is  dillicidt  t*  :.."•"!•(  *o 
wliiili  liiisin  III  lon<;:  tlic  tunning'  and  stagnant  waters  wliicli  iirrsii  chiiiu;>h<)nt 
tlic  dry  season.  Kut  tlic  icnfion  of  tluMlivi<li'  in  strewn  with  nninerous  sharj.  'P 
rounded  o;ranito  meks,  hetweeii  which  the  rich  liunius  supports  an  exulierant 
ve;j;('tafion  of  palinn  and  leafy  trees  scaltertvl  in  pictun's(|ni!  clusters  amid  u 
lahyrinlli  of  lilulfs  and  houldeis,  from  which  the  y:i'"ups  of  huts  or  houses  cannot 
always  he  easily  distint'uishcd. 

Owinj;  to  tho  ubstMieo  of  a  decided  ini^iiiie  the  waters  have  in  many  places 
failed  to  dcyehip  a  fiuyial  system,  hut  ai'c  collected  in  lakes  or  la>foons,  which  riso 
and  fall,  ex])aud  or  disappear,  according  to  the  .sea.sons.  Kvon  where  the  annual 
rain.s  have  carved  out  continuous  channels,  tlu>  streams  for  oxer  half  the  year  are 
reduced  to  a  line  of  shallow  waters,  separated  by  inlerveninj,'  sandbanks.  In  its 
lower  reaches  alone  tho  Sokoto  presents  an  uninterrupted  current,  but  iven  hero 
winding  so  slug<?isldy  over  its  pebbly  bed,  that  the  waters  become  unwholesome 
for  man  and  beast.  The  rainfall,  however,  diflVrs  ifr(>atly  in  (piantity  i'l  (he  two 
sections  of  the  basin,  one  bonh'ring  on  the  Sahariaii  steppes,  the  other  enmpri.sed 
within  the  zone  of  Sudan.  In  this  re<;ion  the  transitions  are  yery  abrupt  from  the 
dry  to  the  wet  /one,  and  while  the  rains  are  rare  in  the  northern  city  of  Sokctto, 
they  are  very  copious  at  (iando,  oidy  lu  miles  farther  south.  I  hiring-  the  wet 
season  the  wliole  country  Ik  conies  almost  imjias.sable,  the  rivers  overHowing  tlieir 
baidvs,  tho  suturated  hi<>'hways  ehan<;'in<i;  t(»  (luagmires,  treacherous  mora,sses  filling 
every  depres.sion.  Thanks  to  its  arboreal  vegetation,  the  southern  section  of  the 
Sokoto  basin  presents  a  smiling  aspect  throughout  th«'  year,  while  in  the  north  in 
many  places  nothing  is  visible  in  the  dry  season  except  i)arched  and  arid  steppes. 

Fl.OU.V   AND  F.vrxA. 

As  in  Senegal,  the  landscape  derives  its  distinctive  character  from  the  tamarind, 
baobab,  and  other  giajits  of  the  vegetable  king(him.  The  three  species  of  palm, 
the  date,  dum,  and  deleb,  marking  distinct  zones  in  North  Africa,  are  liere  fo\ind 
flourishing  side  by  side  in  some  districts.  The  butter-tree  is  common  in  some 
vrts  of  Sokoto,  while  others  are  noted  for  their  forests  of  doria  {pftrhia),  whose 
parched  .seeds,  prepared  in  the  form  of  cakes  like  chocolate,  form  an  important 
article  of  export  to  the  northern  districts,  where  tho  tree  is  rare,  and  to  the  Tsad 
basin,  where  it  is  not  found.  The  banana,  wrongly  said  to  follow  the  Negro  across 
the  whole  of  Sudan,  is  absent  in  the  region  some  ()()()  miles  wide  intervening 
between  Adamawa  and  Gando,  but  is  very  common  and  of  excellent  quality  in 
the  western  part  of  Ilaussa.  liice  is  the  cereal  in  a  pre-eminent  sense  throughout 
the  Sokoto  basin,  although  unknown  in  Bornu,  farther  east.  Onions  are  of 
exquisite  Havour,  and  everywhere  form  an  important  article  of  diet.     Of  industrial 


'MrmMim:^ 


■^' '*•*?»«* -nsisftoi-- 


g^51i«^j-i?^i|if»§.3^i 


H.vrsSA  LAND. 


aoe 


plants  III.,  most  wi.l.-ly  spn-ml   is  n.tt..n,  a«.  according  to  tho  stal.m.nls  uf    I..0 
Atricaiius,  it  alnvidv  was  in  tli.-  sixtcciitli  ci'iitiirv. 

Wil.l  animals  of'  large  si/,>  liav  mostly  .lisapp.-an-.l  fi  "..  tlu-  r.nlral  pails. 
but  n,nsi.lrral.l.>  l.-nls  of  elephants  are  still  m.^l  in  some  nt  tl..-  m..sl  .vmot,. 
(listriets.  wl.ile  the  n.aneless  lion  of  the  Sahara  infests  the  sfppe  lun.ls  ahout  the 
NiT,.r.  The  .hief  .hmu-Hti..  animals  are  goats,  all  oi  a  uniform  hrown,  au.l  horne.l 
cattle,  all  ..f  a  pure  white  eolu.ir.  ISee  farming.'  is  aetively  e  .rrie.l  .....  tl..^  hiv.s, 
f.,rn..'!l  of  hollow  h.'a...-l.es.  Ikm..-  -.>..e.-ally  susp.m.le.l  f.-om  the  l.o..-hs  of  tlu 
baohah.  1..  the  low-lvi..-  a.i.l  .narshy  traets  the  .nos.p.itoes  a.'e  an  aln.ost  intoh'.- 
ahle  plague,  far  m...e'.l.ra.l.d  than  ..ny  beasts  .,f  prey,  liut  in  s.„n.-  places  the 
people  have  (levise.l  a..  i..«e..i..us  pla..  to  eseapo  fro...  these  i...stifer..us  mseets. 
At  s.)m.>  (lista.ice  from  their  huts  they  pi-ei)a.-e  u  retreat  plaee.l  Id  ...•  1'.'  foot  above 
the  g.-o.ina  u.i.ler  a  .'onio  sIuhI  supported  o..  stak.-s.  This  retreat  is  k.'pt  con.- 
pletelv  i'losed  during  the  <lay.  and  at  night  th..y  gain  access  t..  it  hy  a  la.l.hr, 
su.l.lenly  elosing  the  .h.or  b.hin.l  them,  and  thus  .-soaping  iron,  thebu/zing  .swar..is 
of  tli.'ir  tor.neiitors. 

Inhaiutants. 

The  HauRsawo,  or  "  Po.iple  of  Ilaussa,"  claim  to  have  ciiio  fro...  the  noith. 
and  the  (J..l.e.-awa,  fo.-.ne.-ly  .h.miuant  in  the  Air  Mountains,  certainly  belong  t.. 
this  g,-oup.  In  their  mythical  genealogy  the  name  of  their  gi'cat  ancestor  would 
sec.i'to  imply  a  s.>rvile  origi..  for  the  whole  lace  except  the  "sons  of  (iobc.-." 
The  traditional  home  of  all  the  family  is  the  divide  betw.-en  the  Sokoto  an.l  Tsa.l 
basins,  a.id  more  particula.-ly  th.'  ."astern  watershed,  whe..oe  they  spread  gmdually 
westwards.  Acco.-ding  t..  the  legend  the  Ilaussa  fa...ily  comprised  seven  "  legiti- 
mate "  sons,  to  each  of  wh..T.i  was  assigned  a  special  department  of  the  public 
service.  Thus  Gober,  the  warrior  of  the  north,  was  le.piired  to  defend  th<>  land : 
Kano  in  the  same  way  beca..ie  the  dy;^r,  Katsena  the  trader,  and  Seg  Seg,  in  the 
south,  the  slave-hunter.  Th.m  tbc  fan.ily  was  further  inceased  by  seven  "  ill.'giti- 
nuite "  cliil.lren,  .uxtsiders  of  different  speech,  but  who  u.iderstood  the  Ilaussa 
language.  These  are  the  inhabitants  of  the  Lower  Niger  and  Benue,  still  regarded 
as  stra.igers  and  inferior  in  n..bility  to  the  Ilaussawa  proper. 

While  the  domain  .)f  the  latter  is  scarcely  •"iO.OdO  scpiai-e  miles  in  extent,  their 
language  is  spread  over  a  regi..7i  five  or  six  times  moic  extensi% e.  Richardson 
called  it  "  Sudanese,"  as  if  it  were  the  universal  speech  of  Sudan;  and  it  is  certainly 
do.ui.ia.it  in  the  whole  :  ^gion  co.nprised  between  the  Sahara,  Lake  Tsad,  the  Gulf 
of  Guinea,  and  the  Kong  Mountains.  It  is  even  current  in  all  the  surr.)unding 
markets  and  amongst  the  Negro  communities  in  Tripoli,  Tunis,  and  Algiers.  Its 
structure  is  agglutinati.ig  with  p.-ofixes  and  postfixes,  and  for  harmony,  wealth  of 
vocabulary,  simpli.ity  and  elegance,  it  certainly  deserves  to  take  a  fo.'cmost  rank 
amongst  the  languages  of  Africa.  Its  literature  is  mainly  restrict(-d  to  religious 
works'!  giammars,  and  dictionaries  composed  by  Eurojieans  ;  but,  according  to 
Schbnand  Krause,  the  Ilaussawa  would  also  appear  to  possess  original  manuscripts, 
written,  however,  in  the  Arabic  character.     Ilaussa,  which  is  said  to  be  spoken 


■ms'immxasmms^'Vri 


810 


WEST   AFiaCA. 


ml 


mi 


with  the  greatest  purity  in  Katscna,  is  affiliated  by  some  authorities  to  the  Kanuri 
of  Bornu,  while  also  presenting  some  marked  affinities  with  the  Berber  family. 

The  "  Seven  Children  "  do  not  all  belong  to  the  fold  of  Islam.  At  the  time 
of  Earth's  journey,  the  Goberawa  of  the  north  still  continued  to  reject  the 
Mussulman  teachings,  while  the  others  seemed  to  be  animated  b\'  little  zeal  for 
the  faith.  In  this  region  the  work  of  religious  propaganda  has  been  reserved 
exclusively  for  the  Fulahs,  who  were  long  settled  here  as  piistors,  and  most  of 
whom  by  the  eighteenth  century,  if  not  earlier,  had  already  embiaced  Moham- 
medanism. Scattered  throughout  the  llaussa  lands  they  had  become  very 
numeioiis,  but  had  nowhere  acciuired  politic.il  power  before  the  war  of  LSU'i,  when 
the  Sheikh  Dam-fodie  Othman  encouraged  his  brethren  to  form  themselves  into 
Jvmaa,  that  is,  religious  and  military  comnmnities,  for  the  pur])ose  of  propagating 


Yvg.  141. — Range  of  MoiiA3i»eDAKisi[  in  Cexthal  Ait.ica. 
1 :  .')n,ooo,o;io. 


,  600  MUes. 


the  faith  with  the  sword.  After  numerous  reverses  the  Fulahs  triumphed  at  last 
over  the  Ilaussawa,  founding  a  vast  empire  which  stretched  as  far  as  the  .sources 
of  the  Benue. 

Amongst  the  pretended  Fulahs  of  Sokoto,  there  are  many  of  different  stocks 
who  belong  to  the  conqueriug  race  only  through  social  and  political  alliances  of 
long  standing.  Such  are  the  Sisilbe  or  Sillebawa,  descendants  of  the  Wakore  or 
eastern  Mandingans,  who  speak  both  Pular  (Fulah)  and  llaussa,  having  long 
forgotten  their  mother  t(mgue.  Such  also,  but  of  inferior  caste,  are  the  Lahobe 
of  Senegal,  and  the  Soghorans  or  Jawambes  of  Sokoto.  Tlie  Torodos  or  Torobes, 
akin  to  the  Senegalese  Toucouleurs,  but  reckoned  among.st  the  eastern  Fulahs, 
constitute  a  religious  and  military  aristocracy. 

The  Toucouleurs  of  Sokoto  are  also  a  mixed  race,  in  which  the  Wolof  element 
is  said  to  be  as  strongly  represented  as  in  Senegal.     It  was  ou  this  fact  uf  the 


i«. 


■::«V: 


ifi,. 


.;<?giliSit&vv 


HAUSSA  LAND. 


»11 


ho  Kanuri 

aiiiily. 

tlic  time 
[•eject  the 
c  /cal  for 

reserved 
rl  most  of 
I  Moliiiin- 
)ino  very 
^(l-J,  wlien 
elves  into 
ouagiiting 


s^^ 


presence  in  Sokoto  of  a  half-caste  Wolof  people  that  Barth  assigned  a  western 
origin  to  the  Fulahs.  One  thing  is  certain,  that  these  nomad  pastors  andhn  l)and- 
raen  easily  shift  their  eamping-gronnds,  driving  their  flocks  for  hundreds  oi  miles 
from  pasturage  to  pasturage,  but  also  as  readily  settling  down  permanently  in 
liny  favourable  localities   where  they   can  make  themselves  masters.      Thus  are 

t'l''.  Mo.— A  Sokoto  Fulah— Ruothkr  of  the  Sultan. 


led  at  last 
ae  sources 


mt  stocks 
liances  of 
^akore  or 
k'ing  long 
le  Lahobe 
•  Torobes, 
1  Fulahs, 

if  element 
ict  of  the 


explained  the  constant  mcdifications  of  the  ethnological  map  of  the  Fulahs  in 
8udan. 

Tn  the  province  of  Kebbi,  the  Songhais,  here  known  by  the  name  of  Kabawn, 
occupy  most  of  the  triangular  space  comprised  between  the  Niger  and  the  river 
valleys  descending  from  the  Tuareg  territory.  The  Tuaregs  themselves  arc  also 
very  numerous  in  Ilaussa,  where  the  province  of  Adar  (Tadlar),  in  the  north,  has 
already  been  to  a  great  extent  Berberised.  The  national  litzam,  or  veil,  has  been 
adopted  as  a  sign  of  nobility  even  by  many  Fulahs  and  Ilaussawa  without  any 
strain  of  Tuareg  blood. 

The  vast  Fulah  empire,  founded  by  Othman  at  the  beginning  of  the  present 


:-iiimsmsmnirim'(Vi!'im>^ms:vi 


.a.^j*^ — 


812 


WEST  AFRICA. 


coutury,  is  now  divided  into  two  kingdoms— that.  >f  Wikno  in  the  oast,  comprising 
portions  of  tlio  Tsud  and  Bcnue  basins,  and  in  the  west  Gando,  wbicli  stretches 
beyond  the  Niger  as  far  as  the  Mossi  territory.  About  the  middle  of  the  century 
the  Fnlah  power  seemed  already  on  the  wane,  and  Ihirth  anticipated  a  speedy 
restoration  of  the  former  political  status.  The  empire,  however,  still  holds 
to'^ethei-  althouirh  many  feudatories,  such  as  the  Sultan  of  Nupe,  are  far  more 
powerful  than  th(>  suzerain  himself.  Shice  the  return  of  peaceful  times,  tlie 
central  provinces,  both  in  Gando  and  Sokoto,  have  even  made  surprising  progress 
in  material  prospei'ity.      Joseph  Thomson  speaks  with  admiration  of  the  commer- 

Fig.  146. --Inhabitants  oi-  Haussa. 
Scale  1  ;  5,000,000. 


14* 


O    B  J"  ,*M.r.di 


14" 


•)'    ;!0 


,  60  Miles. 


cial  activity  of  the  inhabitants,  and  compares  the  incessant  traffic  on  the  highway 
between  the  cities  of  Gando  and  Sokoto  to  the  stir  and  hustle  about  an  anthill. 
The  Horizon  is  bounded  by  large  villages  each  as  populous  as  towns  elsewhere. 

The  towns  themselves  api)eur  at  a  distance  like  groves  or  thickets,  every  house 
possessing  !'s  wido-branching  ti'?o,  while  the  old  forests  have  <lisa])peared  from 
the  well-cultivated  plains.  The  frc-ipient  national  or  dynastic  wars  have  compelled 
the  people  to  surround  their  towns  with  walls  and  ditches,  with  gates  Hanked  by 
strong  towers.  Knrirf,  some  >\0  miles  south  of  Kalsena,  may  serve  as  a  model  in 
this  respect,       Built  in  the  middle  of  the  century  as  u  refuge  for  eight  or  nine 


\,^'.j' 


m^.  'Z4W:^^^MM^^MmmiiM^M 


KATSENA. 


818 


thousand  persons  rrndored  homeless  by  the  destruction  of  their  dwelliu<;s,  Kiirrefi 
rests  on  one  side  against  a  granite  cliff,  and  is  defended  on  the  other  by  a  1rii)le 
wall  and  two  broad  moats.  These  defences  arc  broken  only  by  two  gateways,  so 
disposed  as  to  compel  the  enemy  to  wind  a  long  way  between  walls  pierced  with 
loopholes.  The  chief  approach  is  further  masked  by  an  ontx^r  p/tnr  (ran/ics,  also 
surrounded  by  a  double  ditcli. 

Industry  is  very  active  in  the  large  Haussa  towns,  where  the  division  of  labour 
lius  given  lise  to  numerous  guilds  of  potters,  weavers,  dyers,  tailors,  saddlers 
iiuisous,  smiths,  jewellers,  and  other  craftsmen.  The  bazaars  arc  well-stocked, 
iiud  tlie  din  of  the  workshops  everywhere  intermingles  with  the  cadtMiced  voice  of 
the  scholars  reciting  their  lessons  from  the  Koran.  Labour  is  held  in  honour  in 
lliese  Nigritian  cities,  and  a^ though  slavery  is  not  yet  abolished,  the  nuiid)er  of 
slav(!s  is  diminishing,  as  in  many  provinces  they  are  seldom  allowed  to  marry,  and 
slave-hunting  expeditions  to  keep  up  the  supplies  are  now  less  frequent,  thanks 
to  the  spread  of  Islam. 

ToPOGR.\rHY  OF  IIai'ssa  Land. 

The  Damerghu  country,  which,  in  the  Hpcech  and  culture  of  its  inhabitants, 
must  be  regarded  as  forming  part  of  llaussa  Land,  belongs  to  the  zone  of  transi- 
tion between  the  Sahara  and  Sudan.  Here  the  tamarind  and  other  large  trees 
tiiid  their  northern  limit,  and  here  cotton  and  other  economic  plants  cease  to  be 
cultivated.  The  fields  are  still  watm-ed  by  regidar  rains,  but  not  always  in  sufficient 
(luantity  to  prevent  injurious  droughts.  This  province,  inhabited  by  mixed  Berber 
iiud  ;Neo-ro  peoples,  is  dotted  over  with  numerous  villages ;  but  when  visited  in 
1851  by  Barth  and  Overweg  it  did  not  contain  a  single  city. 

The  region  stretching  south  of  Damerghu  belongs,  not  to  the  Niger,  but  to  the 
Tsad  basin.  Here  Daiira,  capital  of  the  district  of  like  name,  90  miles  north-east 
of  Katsena,  is  tlie  metropolis  of  the  oldest  of  the  "  Seven  Haussas."  Before  the 
^loharamedan  invasion  it  was  also  the  residence  of  Dodo,  the  chief  Ilaussawa  deity, 
ovcn'thrown  in  single  combat  by  a  doughty  champion  of  Islam. 

Temimi,  which  in  the  Tsad  basin  lies  nearest  to  the  source  of  the  Yen,  might 
be  taken  as  a  type  of  most  Ilaitssa  towns.  While  the  open  plain  is  bare  and 
iH()not<mous,  the  enclosure  is  full  of  large  trees  overshadowing  the  houses  and 
cultivated  spaces.  The  inhabitants  of  Tessawa,  as  well  as  of  the  neighbouring 
Gos.seiiiilw  and  Gdmiini,  are  mostly  half-caste  Tuaregs  engaged  in  trade  and 
dyeing. 

Kal^etnt,  capital  of  an  eastern  i)rovince  and  formerly  a  royal  city,  lies  near  tlie 
ln'iid  of  an  intermittent  stri.ara  tlowing  eastwards  through  the  Yeu  to  Lake  Tsad. 
In  appearance  Katsena  is  one  of  tlie  great  cities  of  Africa,  with  walls  30  feet 
thick,  :5.")  to  40  liigh,  and  over  l-'J  miles  in  circumference.  But  most  of  the  enclosed 
spiice  is  now  occupied  with  ruins,  fields,  and  gardens,  the  houses  and  market 
hoing  grouped  in  the  north-west,  the  palace  with  a  few  scattered  buildings  in  the 
north -east  corner  of  the  irregular  rectangle.     In  the  sixteenth  century,  and  pro- 

84— AF 


"rvVfT-:'?':  vt-'^'-'^^^":^'ft^"^"^V''^-'^^~'~^' 


im^. 


314 


WEST   AFEICA. 


y<  ■>-. 


hably  ourlifv,  Kiitsona  was  a  centre  of  civilisation  frequented  by  strangers  from  all 
(piarters,  and  at  that  time  the  kii.j>s,  althoup^h  nominally  vassals  of  Bornu,  were 
practically  independent.  Tliey  offeicd  a  heroic  resistance  to  the  Fulahs,  the  siege 
o*  Hie  caj)ital  lasting  from  IH07  ti>  1<S14,  and  accompanied  by  a  frightful  famine, 
during  which  carrion  birds,  lizards,  and  snakes,  were  sold  at  exorbitant  prices. 
.Vfter  its  capture  the  Fulahs  .showi'd  no  mercy  to  the  inhabitants,  and  endeavoured 
to  efface  all  traces  of  their  ancient  independence,  burning  the  historical  records 
and  razing  to  the  ground  the  town  of  Duukama,  where  the  king  had  taken  refuge 
after  the  .siege. 

Kaiio,  at  present  the  largest  place  in  east  ITaussa,  lies  within  the  Tsad  basin  at 
the  foot  of  the  Dala  rock,  which  was  formerly  crowned  by  a  citadel.     Like  Kat.sena 

Fi<ir    147. — Katsena  and  Dankama 

Scile  1  :  .190.000. 


'_*  'D»nl««m«  ,7^5.'.' 


».* 


.  (1  MiJps. 


X 


it  consisted  originally  of  a  number  of  villages,  which  were  all  enclosed  within 
carefully  preserved  ramparts  l.")  miles  in  circumference.  Towards  the  south  are 
still  visible  the  remains  of  a  still  more  ancient  enclosure  now  covered  with  houses. 
Scattered  over  the  irregular  oval  space  within  the  walls  are  several  flooded  depres- 
sions, tlie  largest  of  whicli  (>xtends  'i  miles  ea.st  and  west,  but  is  crossed  in  the 
niid(llt>  by  an  isthmus,  or  "bridge,"  leading  north  to  the  great  market-place. 

Kano  rose  to  imjjortance  only  aft(>r  the  fall  of  Katsena,  when  traders  were 
obliged  to  remove  the  centre  of  their  operations  to  this  place.  Inside  the  walls  it 
occupi(>s  at  least  1(1  s(|uare  miles,  peopled  by  immigrants  of  every  race,  each 
residing  in  its  own  cpiarter.  Kano  carries  on  an  active  trade,  e.speeially  in  cotton 
fabrics  woven  and  dyed  by  the  i)eople   themselves  with  the   cotton   and   indigo 


WUimO— SOKOTO. 


filo 


Tcrs  from  all 
Boriui,  were 
lis,  the  siege 
it  fill  famine, 
itaiit  jirices. 
endeavoured 
rical  records 
taken  refuge 

'.sad  basin  at 
liikc  Katsena 


raised  on  the  surrounding  plain,  which  has  been  railed  the  "Garden  of  Sudan." 
Other  products  of  the  higlily  developed  household  industries,  sueli  as  .shoi's, 
sandals,  leather  pouches,  are  exported  far  and  wide,  ;ind  large  quantities  of  cereals, 
after  supplying  the  local  waut.s,  are  also  available  for  the  foreign  markets. 

East  of  Kaiu)  the  most  important  places  depending  politically  on  liaiissa  are 
(icrld,  near  the  lioruu  frontier,  and  Knf/ii/iim  on  the  rivi'r  of  like  name  flowing 
intermittently  to  the  Yen.  On  the  water-parting  near  the  Niger  and  Tsad  basins 
to  the  west  of  Kano  lies  the  picturesque  town  of  Ka mm n ),('■,  one  of  the  most 
industrious  in  Haussa,  producing  cotton  stuffs  highly  esteemed  for  their  durability 
and  remarkably  bright  colours.  Siirnii,  capital  of  Sanfara,  near  the  source  of  the 
Sokoto,  is  still  u  populous  place,  although  it  has  suffered  nmch  from  its  constant 
feuds  with  its  rival  Maradi,  capital  of  Gober.     Farther  west,  on  the  route  to  Sokoto, 


Fi.ir.   MS.- Kano. 
'•oile  1 :4f>(MHH>. 


# 

.BaUaw* 

y 

IS- 

10 

0  DaWBno 

^•-# 

"lO 

V 

i  ^^ 

Gtaawa 

KANO^     , 

\^ 

V  V'  V 

Toharo 

pee 

la: 

/ 

.12* 

8'eo 

Ea 

■it  of  Greenwich 

£■■..- 

0  Miles. 


closed  Avithin 
;he  .south  are 
I  with  houses, 
ooded  depres- 
ros.sed  in  the 
t-j)lace. 

traders  were 
le  the  walls  it 
ry  race,  each 
ially  in  cotton 
n  and  indigo 


foil  ^v  Bnchi,  lost  amid  a  labyrintli  of  rocks;  humane  Ahm,  one  of  the  strongest 
places  in  the  empire  ;  Alhalawn,  formerly  capital  of  Gober,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Sokoto  at  the  northern  verge  of  the  dense  forest  of  Gundumi ;  lastly,  Konni,  one 
of  the  chief  places  in  Gober,  two  days  to  the  north-west. 

Wurno,  present  residence  of  the  Scriki  \\  Musulmya,  or  "  Sovereign  of  the 
Mussulmans,"  occupies  a  splendid  site  on  an  isolated  sandstone  bluff  rising  TiO 
feet  above  the  surrounding  valleys  At  its  northern  foot  flows  tke  river  winch  is 
formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Surmi  and  :Maradi,  and  which  lower  down  takes 
the  name  of  Sokoto.  from  the  ci(y  which  preceded  Wuruo  as  the  capital  of  the 
Fuhvh  emi)ire.  Like  Wurno,  i^ikoh  stands  on  a  stiudstone  rock  overlooking  a 
valley  watered  by  a  percnniid  stream.  This  river,  which  flows  eastwards,  is  the 
GumU  or  Bahura,  so  named  from  two  important  towns  on  its  banks.     A  little  to 


i 


310 


WEST  .UlUL'A. 


the  north  of  Sokoto  it  fulls  into  tho  niiiin  stream,  Sokoto  thus  oociipyinf*  the  con- 
verging point  of  several  natural  routes  k'ading  east  to  Kano,  Katsena,  and  Lake 
Tsad,  and  west  to  the  Ni^'cr.  'I'lie  ramparts,  built  by  Sultan  IJelloat  \hv  befrinning 
of  the  present  century,  i'orui  a  perfectly  re<,'i:hu'  [Uare  -l^iHH)  yards  lon<>: on  all  sides. 
The  map  whicli  I'xdlo  jjave  his  visitor  Claj)p(U'ton,  and  on  which  are  figured  in 
perspe(;tive  all  tlie  surroundin<!f  lands  as  far  as  the  market  of  A/in/fir/i  on  the  sea- 
l)oard,  attests  the  importanct>  which  his  capital  had  in  the  eyes  of  the  cliief  of  the 
F\da]i  con(pu'rors.  When  the  Fulah  empire  was  at  the  lieii^ht  of  its  splendour  the 
space  comprised  within  the  lofty  ramparts  of  Sokoto  was  occupied  by  a  compact 
populaiion  of  a  hundred  and  tW(Mity  thousand  souls.  15ut  twenty-five  years 
afterwards  it  was  estimated  l)y  Ihirth  at  no  more  than  twenty  thousand,  and  since 
then  it  has  still  further  diminislied,  owing  especially  to  the  unhealthy  atmosphere 


Fig.  149.— Plan  of  Sokoto  and  Map  of  Haussa,  dkawn  by  Sultan  Bkm.o. 


';i    ;S:fS 


ill 


Timbu'^tu 


G^ndo 


C3 


I  Bo 


Boujs*^ 


of  the  place.  M'^st  of  the  inhabitants  ar;-  Si  <ilb(>  Maiulinij:an-;,  industrious  artisans 
famous  for  th'  "xcellence  of  their  embroidere'l  leatherware,  textiles,  dyes,  arms, 
and  impleu'enls.  A  Fulah  slave  on  his  return  from  Brazil  established  near  Sokoto 
a  small  si  i>'ariaiu'  jdantation  and  a  refinery,  a  remarkable  instance  of  the  influence 
alvi'ady  exercised  by  the  Mi  >'  Wcrfl  on  the  civilis:ition  of  the  Old.  A  separate 
(|uart(>r  of  Sokoto  is  inhabitf  ,1  by  Arab  tr.'Iers  from  llhat  and  (Jliadames,  and 
Knglish  (b'alers  liave  also  recently  made  tiu  ;•  appearance  in  this  great  market 
of  Centrcl  ,\;'rica,  which  was  first  visited  by  (Jla])perton.  Here  this  famous 
trav'-'icr  died  in  [X2~,  and  was  buried  in  a  neighbimring  village  by  his  companion 
IJichard  Lander. 

The  decayed  city  of  S/iifaini  (^Sif'miyi'^,  IS  miles  south  of  Sokoto,  is  a  historical 
place,  M'hore  the  founder  of  the  Fulah  empire  resided  for  some  years.  Gando,  06 
miles  farther  to  the  south-west,  was  also  one  of  Uthmuu's  residences,  and  is  now 


<»  tlio  con- 

uiid   Lake 

bop-inning 

II  all  sides. 

tii^vircd   in 

)n  the  sca- 

lii'f  of  tlu! 

ciulonr  the 

a  compact 

five   years 

,  and  since 

tniosphore 


•dtft 


>ts*na 


iuoum 


J' 


°6" 


Q 


ms  artisans 
dyes,  arms, 
near  Sokoto 
i(>  inflnence 
A  .separate 
dames,  and 
•cat  market 
liis  famons 
;  coin|)anion 

a  liistorieal 

(faii(/i),  .'50 

and  is  now 


ho  Mossi  territory  ;    but  it  recognises  the  supremacy  of  Sokoto,  capital  of  the 


k...-.- 


;U8 


Wi:sT  Al'UlCA. 


oastorn  oinpiie.  It  oociipU'H  u  sin-juliir  ixisition  in  a  cavity  cncircU'd  on  ull  sides 
by  .-scarpnumts,  and  watoml  by  u  small  alilucnt  of  the  Sokoto.  This  dcpivssioii 
is  siirprisini-ly  fcrtilo,  yii'ldinj,'  an  abiindiincc  of  excinisilo  fiiiits  and  vcj-vtubles. 
The  bananas  and  onions  of  Gando  aiv  famous  throu^'hout  Ilaussa  Land. 

Binii  ,,'A'iUi  ("  Fort   Kebbi"),  standing  M)  niilos  west  of  (Jando,  on  a  ti-vracc 
t>80  feet  above-  the  broad  and  fortilo  S.)kot()  valley,  occupied  an  admirable  strato- 


V.'S.     l'')l.       frAXDO   AND    Soi>(i:(l. 
Soilli-  1  ■  l.ufW.flHII 


A.* 

f 

t 

N    .■' 
a    .' 


sp 


kO*^.--—" 


DanShaowra 
SOKOTO  ' 


*•*:*; 


'OUfM 


f: 


Bodinga 


'j^C£Vi;fa\A/.-- 


Argoungo 


■  \ 


Kamiwssa  (    Do^onciadj' 

'Badda 


^Koussadn 
IVIandera 


Ali»o 


K^ 


bB^ 


4*?.(r 


hast  of  Greenwich 


S'CO' 


3  Miles. 


gieal  and  commercial  position  near  the  head  of  the  navigation,  and  at  the  terminus 
of  the  shortest  route  to  Sai  on  the  Niger.  But  this  former  capital  of  Kebbi  was 
destroyed  in  ISOG  by  the  Fulahs,  and  has  since  been  replaced  by  a  new  town 
called  simply  Kehhi,  built  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  in  a  district  exposed  to  the 
incessant  feuds  of  the  surrounding  Ilaussa,  Fulah,  and  Songhai  populations. 

Jega,  on  the  Gulbi  n'  Gindi,  a   sub-affluent  of  the  Niger,  appears  to  be  at 


1.,  * 


^. 


YAUUI— IIUSSA. 


810 


III  nil  sides 
(Icpi'cssioii 
\  I'-'C'tiiblt's. 


Ill  a  torraco 
il»lr  stratc- 


'^i 


St" 


lie  tcnniuus 

'  Kebl)i  was 

\  new  town 

posed  to  the 

tioiis. 

irs  to  be  at 


present  the  largest  and  most  eoiinnercial  ])laee  in  this  rp<,'ioii.  (loiiilin,  dn  tlie 
ri;;lit  bank  of  the  Ni;,'er,  at  the  Sokoto  eontliieiiee,  is  ii  mere  village,  and  Vauri, 
lower  down  on  the  left  l)aiik,  has  been  mined  by  the  Kiilahs.  It  was  Iniiiierlv 
ea])ital  of  the  Hoiirishin^'  kingdom  of  Yami,  and  was  at  that  time  a  city  of 
"  jirodigionH  extent,"  as  popidous  as  uny  other  on  the  continent,  with  an  enclosure 
from  '?(>  to  .'{()  niil(!s  in  eireuniferenee.  The  great  eommereial  city  of  h'li/fii  has 
ills-)  been  ra/ed  to  the  ground  by  the  I'ulahs.  Some  years  ago  tlie  king  of 
Niikinnnitcli,  tlie  state  bordering  Vaiiri  on  the  east,  made  a  slave-hunting  expedi- 
tion in  the  Niger  valley,  during  wliieli  he  destroyed  fourteen  cities,  including  the 
powerful  riiiihd,  of  wl.ich  the  walls  alone  now  remain.  This  razzia  secured  for 
the  conqueror  thousands  of  captives,  but  the  destruction  of  life  was  enormous  ; 
whole  districts  remained  uninhabited,  and  fugitives  from  Yauri  fled  for  refuge  to 
all  the  surrounding  lands.  Koiiluhoiui  (h'un/iKjoni),  capital  of  the  Xakwamach  or 
IJamashf  Negroes,  was  recently  visited  by  Joseph  Thomson,  who  found  it  u  large 
city  lying  in  a  delightful  hilly  country,  (iO  miles  east  of  tlie  Niger. 

In  one  of  the  rocky  islets,  (>0  niilen  above  liiissa,  stands  the  town  of  IkioHj,  i> 
famous  market  which  in  peaceful  times  attracts  traders  from  all  the  surrounding 
lauds.  lituiHa  {liiimiii),  near  the  rapids  which  proved  fatal  to  ^lungo  Park,  lies 
within  half  a  mile  of  the  right  bank,  some  miles  north  of  the  ruins  of  another 
town  bearing  the  same  name.  At  the  time  of  Flegel's  visit  in  l^^Ml,  liussa  wiu, 
the  capital  of  a  petty  state,  completely  indepeudent  of  the  Fulahs ;  fifty  years 
previously,  the  brothers  Lander  had  spoken  of  the  king  as  the  most  respected 
sovereign  in  ^Vest  Africa,  not  so  much  for  his  power  or  opulence  as  foi'  liis  ancient 
pedigree,  for  he  was  "the  first  monarch  of  AVest  Africa  at  the  beginning  of  the 
world."  llichard.  Lauder  relates  that  after  the  death  of  Mungo  I'ark  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Bussa  were  attacked  by  a  ragiug  epidemic,  which  was  regarded  as  a 
visitation  from  heaven.  "  Take  care  not  to  touch  the  whites  lest  you  jierish  like 
the  people  of  Bussa,"  then  becatne  the  jjassword  throughout  the  land. 

West  of  the  petty  states  of  Hussa  and  Woh-AVoh  stretches  the  ]5orghu  country, 
comprising  several  distinct  kingdoms,  of  which  Ni7>i  is  the  most  powerful.  ]5y 
the  brothers  Lander  the  city  of  this  name  was  reported  to  be  "  immense,"  and  its 
king  had  such  a  strong  army  that  the  Fulahs  did  not  venture  to  draw  the  sword 
against  him.  The  traveller  Duncan,  coming  from  Dahomey,  penetrated  in  184;") 
eastwards  to  Adti/mUft,  in  a  fertile  undulating  district  draining  to  the  Niger,  and 
dotted  over  with  numerous  towns  inhabited  by  courteous,  hospitable  !Moham- 
medan  Negroes.  Duncan  mentions  Aasafiida,  Kiramjxmissa,  Ka^sokaiio,  Scdidkaito, 
KdUiilaiidi,  and  Adafutlia,  following  from  south-east  to  north-west  on  the  northern 
slope  of  the  ]\Iahi  water-parting,  all  with  six  thousand  to  ten  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  even  more.  lie  mentions  incidentally  on  hearsay  that  the  natives,  probably 
akin  to  the  Mossi,  have  succeeded  in  taming  the  elephant  ;  but  in  any  case  they 
raise  a  fine  breed  of  horses,  the  playmates  of  the  children  from  their  infancy. 

Over  (iO  mdes  below  the  Bussa  rapids  stands  iUajebo,  already  within  the  Nupe 
territory,  which,  thanks  to  its  position  on  both  sides  of  the  river  where  it 
approaches  nearest  to  the  coast  at  Lagos,  occupies  one  of  the  vital  points  for  the 


,v.i/".:59,.'j-r.  jv;i^^v^-..r-,ci.. 


mm 


820 


\Vi;ST  AFRICA. 


'if^ 


trade  of  rontral  Africa.  Nupt-  lias  tlic  further  advantajje  of  ri;i  altnost  uniformly 
fertile  suil,  yit^ldijig  in  aliuii(laii((  all  llie  fruits  of  the  tropii  •.  It  i 'i<,fht  support 
niilliouti  of  inhabitants,  und  at  various  epochs  the  population  has  been  relatively 
\(ry  (U'nse.  liahha,  fnrinerly  one  ot  the  j^reat  cities  of  the  continent,  had  one 
hundred  thou.saiid  iiihabitant.s  at  the  befjinning  of  the  pnscMit  ceiitui y,  when  tlie 
sluvc-doalors  hud  made  it  a  depot  for  their  gangs  of  victims  destined  for  sale  on 
the  seaboard.  Opposite  Uabba  stood  /^///(m///,  peoi)led  by  boatmen  and  artisans, 
who,  like  all  the  riverain  po])ulations,  obeyed  the  "king  of  the  gloomy  waters,"  a 
sovereign  nearly  always  afloat  on  tho  stream.  IJiit  both  phuxs  wore  ruined  by 
the  suppression  of  the  slave  trade  uud  the  Fulah  conquest  ]iabl)a  has  partly 
recovered,  thanks  to  its  admirable  position  ou  a  bend  of  the  Niger  at  tho  southern 
extremity  of  u  range  of  hills,  skirted  ou  the  east  by  the    little  liiver   Gingi. 


Tift.  1')'-'.— Rahda. 
Sonle  1  :  400,000. 


ft*      'If'*        -'"''\  i    '  ^^^*-  V^    •    ■  '  *  '• 


*o' 


"•'^^^ 


Aitet'^nt 


^■^/:-  ■'■ 


li* 


East  af  IjreenvMch 


C  MileH. 


Shonga-irharf,  10  miles  farther  down,  has  been  chosen  by  the  English  as  the  chief 
depot  for  goods  destined  for  Yoruba. 

Kaf(iiit/i(  [KatiuKja),  former  capital  of  the  great  kingdom  of  Yoriiba,  stood  some 
24  miles  from  the  beud  of  the  Niger  at  Qphrt,  and  had  itself  succeeded  linhu,  which 
was  much  more  advantageously  situated  in  a  fcntile  and  picturesque  valley.  But 
both  were  destroyed  by  the  Fulahs,  and  the  kings  of  this  country  now  pay  annual 
tribute  to  JHdu  and  Wurno.  About  ;50  miles  south  of  Rabba  lies  Snrala,  a  large 
place  situated  in  a  hilly  but  highly  cultivated  district,  abounding  in  cotton,  cereals, 
yams,  and  ground-nuts. 

South-west  of  Saraki,  tlie  route  across  the  Oshi  affluent  of  the  Niger  leads  to 
the  great  city  of  Ilorin,  staiuling  over  1,300  feet  above  sea-level,  near  the  divide 
between  the  Niger  basin  and    the   streams   flowing   seawards.      The   enclosure, 


''-'^"yfk^^i'- 


iini'fonnly 

lit  support 

roliitivuly 

it,  luid  one 

.   wluMl   tile 

for  Hiilc  oil 
fl  iirtisaiis, 
watiTs,"  n 
ruined  by 
has  partly 
e  southfi'u 
tor   (jiiiigi. 


s  the  chief 

stood  some 
'nhii,  which 
llcy.  But 
pay  annual 
'ki,  a  large 
on,  cereals, 

er  leads  to 
the  divide 
enclosure, 


■v«:«7ain:='.Xir:^^-.'%'H:?Rh.^'->»'-  ' 


THE    LOW 


;r   NI 


|4 
1^ 


ri 


iiliia.    :i 


'^\i^ 


THE    LOW 


R    Nl 


I    \ 


tD( 


Bini(Banin] 


■fe- 


NEWVORK.E 


TON  i 


t      l1«ili||iWll» 


PR- 


IMAGE EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


Photograpnic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


/./  '^^'^ 


>/*■. 


.S5 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WEBSTIR.N.Y.  14580 

(7I6)S73-4S03 


4^0 


:a 


i 


«' 


^J^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


■I 


Canadian  institute  for  Historicai  IVIicroraproductions  /  inatitut  Canadian  da  microreproductiona  iiiatoriquaa 


.■.■■.,.;,  J. .^t.,i,,.i.L,.^^,-yiiyj^i|yi.tl|l,|.,|);^ 


{ 

i 


«■«»—»■  wmm  I  i.jiiiiMii.Liijiiii.iii<.i.f 


•wmwwwIPiWi'**'" 


%/.' 


'm^ 


'■\ 


nr  ■*i"i^  itii.il'l  .    I.      imi 


:Mi'-"''''   '  "- 


ILOEIN— BIDA. 


821 


forming  a  regular  polygon,  has  a  circuit  of  over  12  miles,  and  the  broad  thorough- 
fares are  lined  with  shops  stocked  with  wares  from  Europe  and  Africa.  Fairs  are 
held  every  five  days  in  this  republican  city,  which  was  founded  in  1790  by 
fugitives  from  all  parts  of  Yoruba,  who,  in  Lander's  time,  occupied  twelve  separate 
quarters,  each  belonging  to  a  different  tribe  and  represented  by  an  elder  in  the 


Fig,  163. — BiDA  AND  Kabuxa. 

Sonle  1  :  460.000. 


%«;' 


Ea«t  of  (jreenwich       5' 


6  Miles. 


general  council.     At  present  the  Mohammedan  Fulahs  predominate,  although 
most  of  the  inhabitants  are  still  pagans. 

Bida,  capital  of  Nup^,  occupies  the  centre  of  the  peninsular  district  limited 
southwards  by  the  Niger,  west  and  north  by  the  Kaduna  affluent,  and  watered  by 
the  Lauja,  which  flows  through  the  Baku  to  the  main  stream.    Although  of 


822 


WEST  AFRICA. 


recent  foundation,  Bida  was  said  to  have  already  a  population  of  nearly  a  hundred 
thousand  at  the  time  of'  the  missionary  Milum's  visit  in  1879.  It  is  a  fortified 
city,  surrounded  by  a  regular  quadrilateral  rampart  and  broad  ditch,  and  laid  out 
Avith  wide  streets,  extensive  squares,  and  market-places.  Its  Moslem  inhabitants 
are  very  industrious  weavers,  dyers,  iron-smelters,  and  forgers,  and  even  manufac- 
ture ornamental  glassware  for  arras  and  personal  decoration.  Schools  are  estab  • 
lished  in  all  the  districts,  and  most  of  the  children  read  and  write  Arabic, 

The  large  river  Kuduna  (La von,  Lafun),  which  joins  the  Niger  between  Rabba 
and  Bida,  has  its  farthest  headstreams  in  the  provinces  of  Katsena  and  Kano, 
whence  it  flows  through  the  province  of  Southern  Haussa,  known  by  the  various 
names  of  Seg-Scg,  Saria,  and  So-So  (Zeg-Zeg,  Zaria,  Zo-Zo).  Sana  {Zariya), 
capital  of  this  territory,  boasts  of  the  finest  mosque  in  Haussa  Land.     Lying  on 


Fig.   154.— EooA. 
Boale  1 :  600,000. 


12  Miles. 


the  divide  between  the  Kaduna  basin  and  the  northern  rivers,  it  probably  stands 
over  3,000  feet  above  the  sea  in  a  well-watered,  fertile,  and  extremely  healthy 
district.  The  plains  of  Egobbi,  south  of  Saria,  appeared  to  Lander  more  especially 
worthy  of  being  compared  with  the  most  charming  sylvan  landscapes  in  England. 
Egobbi  itself,  pleasantly  situated  on  a  northtn^  affluent  of  the  Kaduna,  is 
regularly  laid  out,  with  open  well-kept  streets  within  a  perfectly  square  rampart. 
Its  calabashes  are  greatly  prized  for  the  delicacy  of  the  carvings,  chiefly  of  domestic 
animals,  with  which  they  are  decorated.  The  dominating  Fulah  section  of  the 
community  retains  the  national  love  of  a  pasloral  life;  by  them  husbandry  is  held 
in  honour,  but  stock-breeding  is  a  religion. 

In  the  upper  Kaduna  basin  there  are  no  large  towns,  but  numerous  villages, 
peopled  either  by  Mohammedan  Fulahs,  or  pagan   Negroes  of  the  Kado  nation. 


sesss&Si^ 


,»(yii''.  »■  »■ 


^^'^^ 


ADMINISTRATION  OF  HAUSSA  LAND. 


828 


I  hundred 
I  fortified 
1  laid  out 
ihabitants 
manufac- 
ire  estab 

B. 

Jen  Rabba 
ind  Kano, 
be  various 
;  (Zariba), 
Lying  ou 


Such  are  the  markets  of  ¥a,  on  a  headstream  of  the  Kadunn,  and  Sango-Katah,  one 
day's  march  further  south,  "  the  centre  of  five  hundred  small  hamlets  lying  close 
together." 

Birni  n'  Gimri,  capital  of  the  province  of  Gwari  (Gbari),  between  Suria  and 
Yauri,  lies  still  within  the  Fulah  empire,  and  maintains  commercial  relations  with 
the  Niger  through  Kontokora,  and  with  Bida  through  the  valley  of  the  Marigo, 
chief  western  afHuont  of  the  Kaduna.  In  the  Abuja  country,  east  of  Bida,  which 
also  belongs  to  the  Fulah  State,  the  principal  ti-ading-place  is  Hgga  (Kggan), 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Niger,  at  the  point  whore  it  trends  southwards  to  join 
the  Beuue.  Egga,  which  is  a  large  place,  unfortunately  situated  in  a  swampy, 
malarious  district,  already  comes  within  the  sphere  of  British  trade,  the  town  and 
territory  forming  part  of  the  domain  protected  by  the  Royal  African  Company. 
Over  30  miles  lower  down  and  on  the  same  side  lies  Igbido  (Buddu),  capital  of  the 
Kakandtt  (Effon,  Shebi)  nation,  who  are  the  agents  for  the  transit  trade  between 
the  Lower  and  Middle  Niger.  Some  of  them  make  long  journeys  into  Haussa 
Land  and  even  as  far  as  Air,  and  occasionally  maintain  direct  relations  with  tho 
people  of  Ghadames. 


50' 


'^/t'l?--; 


8° 

40' 


jably  stands 
lely  healthy 
•e  especially 
in  England. 
Kaduna,  is 
ire  rampart. 
•  of  domestic 
ution  of  the 
ndry  is  held 

•ous  villages, 
iado  nation. 


Administration  of  Haussa  Land.      ;    <-  ^-^ 

The  Fulah  empire,  founded  by  Othman  at  the  beginning  of  the  century, 
although  now  divided  into  the  two  kingdoms  of  "Wurno  (Sokoto)  and  Gando,  still 
maintains  a  certain  political  unity,  the  suzerainty  of  Wurno  being  fully  recognised 
by  the  western  state.  In  other  respects  the  whole  territory  consists  of  distinct 
kingdoms,  each  with  its  local  organisation,  and  attached  to  the  suzerain  only  by 
the  annual  tribute.  In  the  hilly  districts  some  tribes  even  still  maintain  their 
independence,  while  the  frontiers  of  the  vast  domain  constantly  fluctuate  with  the 
vicissitudes  of  wars  and  revolts.  Now  also  the  sovereign  power  of  the  Fulah 
monarchs  is  notably  diminished  by  the  commercial  concessions  that  have  been 
made  to  the  English  company  in  the  southern  regions  on  the  banks  of  the  Niger 
and  Beuue.  The  revenue  of  the  Haussa  sultans  must  be  considerable  compared 
with  that  of  other  African  potentates.  In  the  middle  of  the  century  those  of 
the  single  kingdom  of  Eano  were  already  estimated  by  Barth  at  ninety  million 
cowries,  or  £7,200,  the  annual  impost  being  at  that  time  five  hundred  cowries  for 
every  head  of  a  family.  The  two  kings  of  Sokoto  and  Gando  might  easily  raise 
an  army  of  a  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  men,  including  thirty  thousand 
cavalry. 

The  royal  authority  is  limited  by  a  ministry,  the  nomination  and  functions  of 
which  are  regulated  by  custom.  The  ghaladima,  or  prime  minister,  always  enjoys 
considerable  power,  and  under  him,  in  order  of  precedence,  follow  the  chief  of  the 
cavalry,  the  commander  of  the  infantry,  the  cadi — who  is  at  the  same  time  the 
executioner — the  heir  to  the  throne,  the  chief  of  the  slaves,  and  the  minister  of 
finance. 

Most  of  the  petty  states  are  organised  after  the  model  of  the  kingdom  of 


824 


WEST  AFfilCA. 


Wurno.  Imperial  decrees  are  passed  on  from  vassal  to  vassal  to  the  extremities 
of  the  empire,  and  homage  and  tribute  are  in  the  same  way  sent  up  to  the  central 
Government. 

The  Benue  and  Lower  Niger. — Bonny  and  Old  Calahar. 

The  access  afforded  by  the  Lower  Niger  and  Benue  waterway  towards  the 
interior  promises  one  day  to  become  the  most  important  of  all  commercial  high- 
ways in  the  African  continent.  The  mouths  of  the  Niger  open  seawards  near  the 
head  of  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  betAveen  the  Bights  of  Benin  and  Biafra,  that  is  to 
say,  towards  the  natural  converging  point  of  the  chief  lines  of  navigation  in  the 
South  African  Atlantic.  From  this  point  the  inland  fluvial  route  already  offers  a 
continuous  navigable  highway  accessible  to  steamers  for  over  900  miles  unob- 
structed by  a  single  difficult  impediment.  Of  all  the  great  African  rivers,  the 
Benue  alone  is  free  from  rapids  in  its  middle  course ;  and  even  at  the  head  of  its 
navigation  the  slope  of  the  land  is  continued  eastwards  through  the  Shari  basin, 
while  all  reports  agree  in  anticipating  the  existence  of  easy  routes  through  the 
Niam-Niam  territory  from  the  Tsad  to  the  Nile  basin.  Thus  the  Nile  and  Niger 
are  connected  by  a  great  transverse  artery  crossing  some  of  the  most  populous 
and  productive  regions  in  Central  Africa. 

Yet  after  the  first  appearance  of  the  Portuguese  on  the  Slave  Coast  three 
centuries  passed  before  any  European  traders  attempted  to  obtain  a  footing  on  the 
banks  of  the  Niger  or  the  Benue.  Baikie's  memorable  expedition  of  1854  ushered 
in  the  new  era,  which  brings  the  purely  African  civilisation  of  Nigritia  into  direct 
contact  with  that  of  the  whole  world.  Some  English  commercial  houises  sent  their 
agents  to  the  riverain  cities  along  the  Lower  Niger,  and  at  present  the  stream  of 
commerce  flows  regularly  from  the  whole  of  this  region  towards  London  and 
Liverpool.  The  English  merchants  have  become  the  true  sovereigns  of  the  popu- 
lations dwelling  in  this  African  Mesopotamia.  ij:fi    "X  ;;< '«  ;'  yi^fift'  i 

Nevertheless  they  had  for  a  time  to  contend  with  the  rivalry  of  some  French 
houses,  which  began  to  found  factories  in  the  Niger  delta  about  the  year  1880. 
But  the  various  British  companies  soon  merged  in  a  single  powerful  association, 
disposing  of  twenty-five  steamers  and  a  capital  large  enough  to  buy  up  all  the 
French  houses,  and,  despite  the  diplomatic  clauses  declaring  the  Lower  Niger 
open  to  all  nations,  the  commercial  monopoly  was  thus  restored  to  Great  Britain. 
A.  German  society,  admirably  served  by  the  explorations  of  Flegel,  has  also  recently 
made  great  efforts  to  secure  the  trade  of  the  Benue ;  but  the  riverain  chiefs, 
dazzled  by  the  more  brilliant  offers  of  the  English,  have  yielded  to  them  all  com- 
mercial privileges.  "  Wherever  a  British  consul  shall  set  his  foot,"  writes  tho 
emir  of  Nupe,  "  there  also  I  shall  set  mine." 

The  position  of  the  English  representatives,  supported  by  over  two .  hundred 
treaties,  is  no  longer  challenged,  and  the  support  of  the  home  government  is 
gradually  transforming  their  prerogatives  into  a  political  dominion.  Not  only 
can  the  company  trade  along  the  river  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others,  but  it  has 


rt^iriniliiith  li'tiii' 


>iM*a 


m 


remxties 
I  central 


irds  tlie 
al  high- 
near  the 
tiat  is  to 
»n  in  the 
r  offers  a 
es  unob- 
vers,  ihe 
ad  of  its 
,ri  basin, 
)ugh  the 
ad  Niger 
populous 

Bst  three 
ag  on  the 
I  ushered 
nto  direct 
sent  their 
stream  of 
adou  and 
the  popu- 

le  French 
rear  1880. 
ssociation, 
up  all  the 
ver  Niger 
,t  Britain, 
lo  recently 
tin  chiefs, 
n  all  coin- 
writes  the 

[).  hundred 

»rnment  is 

Not  only 

but  it  has 


THE  BENUE  BASIN. 


also  the  right  of  buying  or  "  otherwise  acquiring  mines,  quarries,  forests,  fisheries, 
and  manufuctures,  of  cultivating  the  lund  and  erecting  structures  on  it.  The 
company  is  moreover  the  political  ruler  of  "  all  the  territories  ceded  to  it  by  the 
kings,  the  chiefs,  and  peoples  in  the  Niger  basin,"  and  in  retui-u  undertakes  to 
treat  with  justice  "  the  nations  in  its  territories,"  to  respect  their  religions,  their 
laws,  imd  properties.  Nevertheless  the  company  is  bound  to  treat  with  the 
natives  for  the  gradual  abolition  of  slavery,  on  this  condition  obtaining  a  royal 
charter  which  places  it  under  the  control  of  the  Secretary  of  State.  Thus  has 
been  constituted  a  second  East  India  Company,  which  enters  at  once  on  the  posses- 


( 


I 


829 


WEST  AFRICA. 


valleys  into  distinct  groups,  disposed  for  the  most  part  in  the  direction  from  north- 


r 


W 
^^^ 


west  to  south-east.     The  Gabi,  the  most  copious  stream  rising  in  this  region,  flows 


TUB  BEN  UK  BASIN. 


887 


m  north- 


ii  .: 


„ii,.„:iii,l"'" 


111,  I 


I,      III!   I 


egion,  flows 


through  a  transverse  volley  lyinp-  north  of  the  highest  part  of  the  uplands,  beyond 
which,  under  the  name  of  the  Oongolu,  it  pierces  the  divide  at  its  nurrowest  and 
lowest  part,  ultimately  joining  the  Upper  Henuu  below  Yola. 

In  the  Kulnm  country  and  on  the  Hornu  frontier,  the  surface  is  diversified  only 
by  low  roiuided  heights  rising  above  the  sea  of  verdure;  but  in  the  Jiuuchi 
district,  source  of  the  great  river  Kaddera  flowing  to  tho  Middle  Hcnuo,  the  hills 
again  rise  and  merge  in  a  magnificent  Alpine  system.  Domes,  needles,  or  quad- 
rangular blocks  with  vertical  walls,  red,  grey,  or  blackish  granite  crags,  assume 
stupendous  forms,  towering  4,000  to  5,000  feet  above  the  gorges,  their  slopes 
clothed  with  impenetrable  primeval  forests.  Mount  Saranda  rises  to  a  height  of 
7,000  feet  immediately  to  the  west  of  the  great  city  of  Yakoba,  while  farther  west 
other  granite  chains  run  north  and  south,  or  uorth-west  and  south-east,  crossed  by 
the  Gora  Pass  (4,500  feet),  which  leads  down  to  the  gently  sloping  plains  about 
the  head  waters  of  the  Kaduna. 

Explorers  have  given  English  names  to  most  of  the  mountains  and  hills 
skirting  the  right  bank  of  the  Bei\ue.  Thus  a  sharp  cone  above  Yola,  dominating 
all  the  surrounding  heights,  has  been  named  Mac-Iver  Peak.  On  the  same  river 
occur  Mount  Forbes,  the  Murchison  chain  culminating  in  Mount  Roderick  (1,650 
feet),  and  lower  down  the  EUesmere  range  along  the  southern  section  of  its  course. 
But  the  loftiest  border  range,  running  parallel  with  the  Upper  Benue  for  a  space 
of  120  miles,  has  retained  its  native  name  of  Muri.  The  scarcely  less  elevated 
hills  on  the  opposite  side  are  also  still  known  by  their  African  designations — 
Ewana,  Morinu,  Bak  n*  Dutchi.  Below  these  the  hills,  rising  in  one  of  their  peaks 
to  an  altitude  of  4,650  feet,  again  take  the  English  name  of  Albennarle  Range, 
their  peaks  being  provisionally  named  after  Biot,  Herschell,  and  other  astronomers. 
The  border  chain  near  the  Niger-Benue  confluence  is  called  the  Oldfield  Range, 
and  all  the  hills  encircling  the  confluence,  with  the  single  exception  of  the  superb 
Mount  Saracte,  have  similarly  been  named  after  British  worthies. 

J  Flora  and  Fauna.         , 

The  upland  valleys  of  the  Saranda  and  neighbouring  mountains  have  a  climate 
like  that  of  Southern  Italy,  suitable  for  the  cultivation  of  all  the  plants  of  the 
south  temperate  zone.  But  towards  the  east  stretches  the  domain  of  the  dum  and 
date-palms,  and  westwards  that  of  the  deleb,  oil-palm,  and  cocoanut.  In  the 
western  forests  is  found  the  li/ia  or  runa,  the  fruit  of  which  yields  a  kind  of  honey 
highly  appreciated  by  the  natives  and  even  in  Marocco,  where  it  takes  the  name 
of  ia  mulci  dris.  In  the  Benue  basin  the  most  widely  cultivated  plant  is  cotton, 
whose  fibre  is  remarkably  firm,  and  so  glossy  that  the  Avoven  material  might 
readily  be  taken  for  silk. 

In  the  Upper  Benue  basin  there  are  said  to  exist  two  species  of  the  elephant, 
one  with  a  yellowish  coat ;  and  large  herds  of  this  animal  are  still  met  in  the 
forests  on  both  slopes.  The  upland  woodlands  afford  cover  to  the  rhinoceros  and  wild 
buffalo,  and  all  the  gorges  are  infested  by  the  panther.     The  civet,  though  seldom 


liin  ■!  imiiin' 


it 


I 

if 


828 


WEST  AFRICA. 


seen,  is  very  common  in  tho  IiukIh  driiiiiiii^  to  tho  llonuo ;  but,  according  to  Iloblffi, 
there  appi'iir  to  he  no  largo  und  very  few  Hmull  Buakos,  while  nil  truvellors  remark 
on  tho  almost  total  ulwonce  of  spiders. 

Inhahitants, 

In  tho  Yakobii  higlilands  tho  chief  Nogro  people  are  tho  Bolos,  who  give  their 
name  to  tho  province  of  Holo-liolo,  bettor  known  by  the  designation  of  liautchi. 
Tlioy  are  amongst  the  least  favoured  races  in  Sudan,  short  and  thickset,  with  broad 

Fig.  167.  — Chiet  Routes  of  Bxi>i.ohi!b8  East  ov  the  Bkitdi. 
Sottle  1  :  13,000,000. 


10' 


T  ^)/^:  i  y    ^}j- i;y.k.i«  ^^  ^j  "^^ 


East  of    GreenwicVi 


ID- 


S' 


W 


Otol60 
Feet, 


Dcpthi. 


160  to  640 
Feet. 


640  Feet  and 
upward*. 


180  Miles. 


depressed  nose  and  tumid  lips,  but  generally  of  less  dark  complexion  than  their 
Fulah  neighbours.  North  of  the  Muri  Mountains  dwell  the  pagan  Wurukus  and 
Tangalas,  the  latter  the  most  dreaded  of  the  Nyem-Nyem  (Yem-Yem)  tribes,  who, 
like  the  Niam-Niams  of  the  Welle  basin,  are  confirmed  cannibals,  devouring  their 
captives,  but  not  their  own  sick  and  dead,  as  has  been  reported.  In  the  popular 
belief  the  souls  of  all  the  departed  are  absorbed  in  one  collective  and  highly 
venerated  deity,  called  Dodo,  to  whom  temples  are  erected  in  the  shade  of  the 
baobabs. 

The  Foli  and  fiel^  tribes  in  the  Gongola  basin,  near  Botuu,  speak  dialects  akin 


-^^a. 


tOjtHHiiil'i 


illi>lliilr')Wil 


INUAU1TANT8  OF  THE  BENUE  BASIN. 


329 


«  Roblfs, 
:»  remiirk 


i^ive  their 

llimtchi. 

'itU  brood 


10" 


than  their 
urukus  and 
;ribe8,  who, 
iiring  their 
the  popular 
and  highly 
lade  of  the 

iialects  akin 


to  the  Kanuri,  while  the  speech  of  those  bordering  on  the  Nifuwu  and  Haussiiwa 
betrays  certain  affinities  to  the  languages  of  those  more  polished  niitions.  Although 
despised  by  the  Mussulmans,  these  uborigines  are  often  skilful  artisims.  Tlio 
titiest  mats  and  best- baked  pottery  scdd  in  the  Lower  Niger  markets  ure  prepared 
by  the  Afos  and  llassas  who  dwell  near  the  Uenue  confluence. 

In  the  open  plains  the  bulk  of  the  population  ure  Iluussuwa  in  the  east  and 
Nifawa  (Nupe)  in  the  west,  while  several  towns  towards  the  Bornu  frontier  are 
chiefly  inhabited  by  Kanuri.     The  Kulah  conquerors  are  everywhere  num'TJcally 

Fig.  168t — RiviiuiN  Populations  of  the  Benub  and  Lowcb  Nioib. 
Roale  1  :  10,000,000. 


W(A    N    0    A    L  /A 

'         Delao 


/  > 


...y 


10" 


East  of  Greenwich        8' 


14° 


OtoSS 
Feet. 


Depth*. 


ItnlflO 

Fft. 


lao  Feet  and 
upwards. 

180  Milee. 


•"ferior,  except  in  a  few  scattered  enclaves  where  their  herds  find  good  pasturage. 
...any  of  these  Fulahs,  especially  towards  the  Upper  Benue,  are  still  pagans  at  a 
very  low  state  of  culture.  In  Adamawa,  on  the  left  side  of  the  Benue,  they  are 
inore  numerous  than  in  the  north,  in  some  districts  forming  the  majority  of  the 
population.  Here  most  of  the  petty  states  are  governed  by  Fulah  chiefs,  whose 
language  prevails  in  the  towns.  The  Sani,  Bula,  Bassama,  Mbmn,  Fali  and 
other  aborigines  collectively  known  as  Battas  have  been  driven  into  the  mountains 
or  the  forests,  or  else  reduced  to  slavery.  The  magnificent  lands  of  Adamawa  are 
85— AF  ■  ..>   .^:,.i.';i.;-:/.-:  ^^    i 


330 


WEST  AFRICA. 


everywlicro  cultivated  by  slave  labour,  and  Barth  met  several  Fulah  proprietors 
who  poBsessed  over  a  thousand  slaves. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Benue  below  Adaraawa  and  Ilamarawa,  the  pre- 
dominant element  are  the  Akpas,  Wakari,  or  Juku,  divided  into  numerous  tribes, 
each  speaking  a  distinct  dialect  of  the  same  stock  language.  Some  have  been 
partly  civilised  by  their  Fulah  neighbours,  while  others  in  the  more  remote 
districts  are  reported  cannibals,  wearing  garments  of  foliage,  and  altogether 
leading  very  primitive  lives.  The  Mishi  or  Mitchi  occupy,  on  the  south  bank 
below  the  Akpas,  an  extensive  territory  stretching  southwards  to  the  Old  Calabar 
basin.  Facing  them  on  the  north  side  are  numerous  peoples  speaking  the  Doma 
or  Arago  idiom,  which  appears  to  be  related  to  the  Yoruba. 

The  domain  of  the  Igarras  (Igallas),  called  also  Apotos  or  Aputus,  stretches 
along  the  left  bank  of  the  Lower  Benue,  and  thence  below  the  confluence  to  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  Niger  delta.  But  their  territory  has  been  encroached  upon 
at  several  points  by  Bessas,  Fulahs,  or  Haussawa  from  beyond  the  Benue.  In 
the  interior  the  Igarra  speech  extends  probably  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Old 
Calabar  river,  and  in  any  case  this  language,  which  has  been  carefully  studied  by 
the  missionaries,  is  one  of  the  most  widely  diffused  in  the  Lower  Niger  regions. 
North  and  south  of  the  confluence  are  some  enclaves  of  Igbara  and  Kukuruku 
tribes,  the  latter  so  named  from  their  cry,  resembling  the  crowing  of  a  cock. 

The  domain  of  the  Ibo  speech  is  still  more  extensive  than  that  of  the  Igarra, 
comprising  west  of  the  Niger  a  vast  territory  in  the  Yoruba  country,  besides  all 
the  head  of  the  delta,  and  in  the  east  the  Old  Calabar  basin  as  far  as  the  unex- 
plored regions.  Egba  is  divided  into  a  great  number  of  very  distinct  dialects,  but 
the  form  current  along  the  Niger  has  become  the  general  standard,  and  has  been 
adopted  by  the  missionaries  for  their  translations,  grammars,  and  vocabularies. 
Formerly  all  the  slaves  transported  from  the  Niger  to  America  were  indifi'orently 
called  Ibo,  of  whatever  speech  or  tribe  they  may  have  been.  The  Ibos  worship 
Tchuku,  a  powerful  god  whom  mortal  eye  has  never  seen,  but  whose  voice  may  at 
times  be  heard ;  but  woe  to  whoever  hears  this  voice,  for  he  shall  henceforth  be 
dumb.  The  deitv  dwells  at  once  in  a  cavern  and  in  the  firmament,  so  that  one 
eye  pierces  the  depthfe  of  the  earth,  the  other  the  heavenly  spaces.  Till  recently 
his  wrath  was  appeased  by  the  sacrifice  of  hapless  maids,  who  were  dragged  over 
the  ground  till  they  expired,  and  their  bodies  were  then  thrown  to  the  fishes  and 
crocodiles.  Amongst  the  Ibos  the  social  castes  are  strictly  upheld,  although 
anyone  maj'  pass  upwards  by  right  of  purchase.  The  highest  nobility  comprises 
only  a  few  members,  whose  greatness  is  proclaimed  to  the  public  by  tinkling  bells 
attached  to  their  legs  or  borne  in  front  of  them.  Others  of  lesser  rank  are 
announced  from  afar  by  horn-blowing ;  but  all  may  be  easily  recognised  by  their 
special  tattoo-markings.  Some  have  the  skin  of  the  forehead  brought  down  like 
a  sort  of  visor  over  the  eyes.      ^.  r* 

The  delta  region  south  of  the  dominating  Ibos,  is  still  occupied  by  scattered 
tribes  without  social  or  linguistic  coherence,  although  the  Izekiri  (Tchekeri),  or 
Benin  language,  prevails  in  the  western  districts  towards  the  Yoruba  frontier. 


■tlM^M* 


■)ni»<e«wiiuin[iniiin-iiiMw.Miiw  irnnin«iiii].wiiiwwwmi>w«BiMiwito<iiiiiaixwiw^wwi 


liMMWinilliMW^ 


,  Sf       y        u  '-*v    ,  ^    t-' 


THE  EYO  NATION. 


881 


lah  proprietors 

pawa,  tte  pre- 
umerous  tribes, 
ome  have  been 
B  more  remote 
and  altogether 
;he  south  bank 
be  Old  Calabar 
king  the  Doma 

putus,  stretches 
uence  to  within 
(ncroached  upon 
the  Benue.  In 
aood  of  the  Old 
fully  studied  by 
r  Niger  regions. 

and  Kukuruku 

of  a  cock, 
it  of  the  Igarra, 
ntry,  besides  all 
ar  as  the  \mex- 
inct  dialects,  but 
rd,  and  has  been 
nd  vocabularies, 
ere  indifferently 
he  Ibos  worship 
ose  voice  may  at 
11  henceforth  be 
Qcnt,  so  that  one 
8.     Till  recently 
are  dragged  over 

to  the  tishes  and 
upheld,  although 
lobility  comprises 

by  tinkling  bells 
F  lesser  rank  are 
icognised  by  their 
rought  down  like 

pied  by  scattered 

:iri  (Tchekeri),  or 

Yoruba  frontier. 


The  Nun  branch  is  occupied  by  tribes  of  Akassa  speech,  which  like  the  Nompe  of 
Brass,  the  Bonny  Okrika,  and  others,  belong  to  the  Eyo  (Iju)  family.  Commer- 
cial activity  promises  to  give  the  preponderance  to  the  Ncmpe,  into  which  the 
native  pastors  translate  the  English  religious  works.  Like  the  Ibos,  the  Eyo 
tribes  believe  in  a  supreme  god,  who,  however,  is  confounded  with  the  heavens, 
revealing  his  power  in  the  clouds,  the  rainbow,  the  fierce  gale,  the  lightning  flash, 
and  the  thunder-clap.      But  this  god  is  too  remote  to  be  directly  worshipped,  and 

Fig.  169.— Lanouaoes  of  the  Bbmttb  and  Loweb  Niger. 
Scale  1 :  75,000. 


•*•  = 


*>.: 


1 


rnna 


?^^1 


;^^^ 


i^4; 


:ii^-: 


■iiilMiil n,' 


i 


mm 


^M 


fW'i 


<S 


S>:sv 


SS^^^^M^ 


^X^V.OO.v 


v..  .,,?Ml',I|| 

iiiiMiiiiiir 

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1  r  1 1 1 1 1 

iiiinilMiiniulliiliii 

liiiliiiiiiiliililtlllili 

IIIIIIIIIHIIIIItltlJIIII 

riliiiHiiiiiiiiHIIIIili 

MIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIIIH 

iiiiiMiiiniiiiuiiii 
^.\^MiiHiliiii|Mlrm 
\\   v'V    11111111111111 


KxN^x^^ 


X\YV\\^ 


^O  .V "  ■\\  ',11111111111 

v\v:ooa\"i 


.v 


^^^^ 


..^.^^^^^^^ 


:-y 


s\^.v\" 


«§^S^ 


::sS>N\SV 


:-nsn.v.; 


U'^.CiJi 


atrtmreatts 


East  of  Greenwich 


10° 


^3 

I...UUU1J  ' 


JPoulur   W^Igarm    ^^^  Yarouba 

[V^lbo 
^^^  Tchekeri 
too^o]  Ijou  and  Ak-<i«a 

[^X<^^v^f^  Bnnny  ft  ok-  ik-. 


;■  Bnntu 


Hauiiea 


^^Andony  g^Tougues^^*  Pouter 
'       Depths. 


Poulir 
&Fulab 


0  to  640 

Feci. 


640  Feet  and 
upwai-ds. 


tSO  Miles. 


is  therefore  approached  through  the  mediation  of  secondary  and  more  friendly 
deities,  such  as  the  iguana  in  the  Bonny  estuary,  the  shark  in  New  Calabar,  and 
elsewhere  monkeys.  Every  two  years  the  towns  are  purified,  not  by  cleansing 
the  houses  or  sweeping  the  streets,  but  by  exorcising  the  foul  fiends.  The  Jew- 
Jew-men,  or  wizards,  play  a  preponderating  part  as  medicine-men,  priests,  and 
prophets,  as  judges  often  condemning  the  accused  to  the  ordeal  of  poison  or  of  a 
plunge  in  some  estuary  infested  by  sharks  and  crocodiles.  From  them  the 
Europeans  learnt  the  potent  p'-operties  of  the  c«.wr(^,  or  Calabar  bean  {Pliysostigma 


-j^ii'S^7i)i';f'Kr^M..i*fVti«.|BBf^;i»)>'j>i'i!!»t^*^^^ 


832 


WEST  AFEICA. 


m 


tenenomm),  which  is  now  used  in  the  treatment  of  ophthalmia.  Foi-merly 
criminals  were  put  to  death  in  the  Bonny  district  with  every  refinement  of  cruelty. 
They  were  attached,  half  torn  asunder,  to  two  gibbets  set  up  on  the  beach  and 
then  chopped  to  pieces,  beginning  with  the  hands  and  fore-arms,  and  when 
nothing  remained  but  the  trunk,  the  heart  was  torn  from  the  breast. 

These  Bonny  men  are  the  keenest  traders  on  the  coast,  although  closely  pressed 
by  their  eastern  neighbours,  the  Andoni,  Quas,  and  Efiks  of  Old  Calabar.  These 
three  tribes  speak  dialects  of  a  radically  distinct  language,  possibly  related  to 
others  knowii  only  by  name  in  the  unexplored  interior.  The  Efik,  which  alone 
has  been  seriously  studied,  seems  to  occupy  an  intermediate  position  between  the 
Negro  tongues  in  the  north  and  west,  and  the  great  Bantu  family,  which  begins 
in  the  Cameroon  highlands,  immediately  east  of  the  Rio  del  Rey. 

Except  a  few  missionaries,  traders,  and  officials  in  the  employment  of  the 
Royal  African  Company,  no  Europeans  are  settled  in  this  region,  where  the  early 
attempts  at  acclimatisation  proved  disastrous.  Of  the  forty-nine  whites  on  board 
the  first  two  steamers  that  ascended  the  Niger  in  1832,  nine  only  escaped  with 
their  lives  ;  and  on  three  other  steamers  sent  by  a  philanthropic  society  in  1841, 
forty-eight  out  of  a  hundred  and  forty-three  died  during  a  short  voyage  of  a  few 
weeks.  The  "  model  farm "  founded  by  them  on  the  right  bank  above  the 
confluence  was  not  quite  cleared  for  cultivation  when  the  death  of  all  the  Euro- 
peans restored  the  land  to  wild  beasts  and  the  jungle.  But  then  came  Baikie's 
ever-memorable  expedition  in  1854,  when  by  the  judicious  use  of  wine  and 
quinine,  and  other  sanitary  precautions,  a  long  voyage  was  made  up  the  Benue 
without  the  loss  of  a  single  life.  Ilenceforth  Europeans  had  a  decisive  example 
of  the  proper  measures  to  take,  if  not  for  complete  acclimatisation,  at  least  for 
temporary  protection  against  the  perils  of  this  dangerous  environment. 


Topography.  '':':':'■■ '^-''^'^ ''''-■'  '' 

The  Upper  Benue  basin  lies  almost  entirely  within  the  province  of  Adamawa, 
which  is  tributary  to  the  Sultan  of  Wurno,  According  to  native  report,  the  most 
frequented  market  in  this  almost  unknown  region  is  Ngaundcrc,  on  the  water-parting 
between  the  streams  flowing  to  the  Benue,  Logon-Shari,  Oongo^  and  Old  Cnlabnr. 
Here  are  also  the  large  towns  of  Chamba,  on  the  south  slope  of  Mount  Alantika ; 
Kontcha,  where  the  sugar-cane  grows  wild,  and  Yoln,  near  the  south  bank,  present 
capital  of  Adamawa,  or  Fumbina,  as  it  was  called  before  the  Fulah  conquest.  At 
that  time  the  chief  town  was  Oiirin,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Faro,  24  miles  above  its 
confluence  with  the  Benue.  East  of  this  confluence  is  Re'i-Bitha,  whose  strong 
ramparts  show  that  the  so-called  "  savage "  aborigines  had  already  developed  a 
certain  degree  of  culture  before  the  arrival  of  the  Fulahs. 

North  of  the  Faro  mouth  stretches  the  delightful  land  of  Demsa  with  its 
pleasant  villages  scattered  amid  the  thickets  at  the  foot  of  the  wooded  granite  hills. 
On  the  route  from  Demsa  to  Bornu,  Barth  passed  the  Arab  town  of  Belem,  then 
Sarau,  inhabited  partly  by  Fulahs,  partly  by  Bereberi  or  colonists  from  Bornu; 


Hi  III...! 


■Rnti 


TAKOBA. 


888 


Formerly 
nt  of  cruelty, 
be  beach  and 
.8,  and   when 

losely  pressed 
abar.  These 
ly  related  to 
:,  which  alone 
I  between  the 
which  begins 

yment  of  the 
liere  the  early 
lites  on  board 
escaped  with 
ciety  in  1841, 
y^age  of  a  few 
ik  above  the 
all  the  Euro- 
came  Baikie's 
of  wine  and 
up  the  Benue 
iisive  example 
n,  at  least  for 
nt. 


}  of  Adamawa, 
jport,  the  most 
!  v/ater-parting 
I  Old  Calabar, 
uut  Alantika; 
I  bank,  present 
conquest.  At 
miles  above  its 
whose  strong 
ly  developed  a 

lemsa  with  its 
d  granite  hills, 
of  Belem,  then 
i  from  Bornu; 


Badamijo,  held  by  the  Fali  people,  and  near  the  divide  Uba,  the  most  advanced  Fulah 
settlement  in  the  direction  of  Lake  Tsad. 

The  Gongola,  which  joins  the  Benue  a  little  below  Yola,  waters  the  impor- 
tant provinces  of  Bautchi  and  Kalam,  vassal  states  of  the  Fulah  empire.  Near  the 
source  lies  the  capital,  Oaro  «'  Bautchi,  better  known  by  the  name  of  Yahoba 
(Yakobari),  either  from  its  founder  or  from  the  neighbouring  Yako  tribe.  Like 
Yola,  it  is  a  modern  place,  built  at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  by  a 

■  i'  Fig.  160.— YoL*.       ,     .        ,. 

Scale!  :  7,600,000. 


^^ 


w//;y. 


>llvf'. 


% 


'""/i: 


East  of  Greenwich        ICSV 


m^ 


\2'ar' 


>  3300  Yard*. 


converted  Moslem  chief,  to  whom  the  Fulah  sultan  had  given  in  fief  the  vast 
territory  lying  between  the  province  of  Eano  and  the  Benue.  Yakoba  stands  over 
3,000  feet  above  sea-le\'el  in  the  northern  part  of  this  region,  surrounded  by  lofty 
mountains,  whence  streams  flow  in  various  directions  towards  the  Gongola  and 
other  tributaries  of  the  Benue.  Thanks  to  its  favourable  position  at  the  con- 
verging point  of  several  caravan  routes,  and  to  other  advantages,  it  increased 
rapidly,  and  at  the  time  of  Rohlf's  visit  was  said  to  have  already  a  population  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  mostly  Haussawa. 


■■■«■■■ 


i»ljlStt<ff^.p!t 


gg4  WEST  AFRICA. 

North-east  of  Yakoba,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Gongolu,  lies  Oomy,  capital  of 


Ifillllliiiiim 

the  kingdom  of  Kalam,  also  a  large  place,  inhabited  mostly  hy  Kauuri  people.     In 


iimni I  »ii  II itriiinliilimiiii iii'iiiiiiHiiiiWuiniiii'lifi 


'iii'WiimfM' 


9 


MURI.— LOKO. 


885 


',  capital  of 

lljllf 


^a- 


If  a 


1 


the  same  diptrict  are  two  other  noteworthy  places,  Biiri-Biiri  in  the  south-west,  also 
inhabited  by  i\anuri,  and  Ditku  in  the  east,  with  a  mixed  population  of  Kanuri, 
Haussavra,  and  other  elements. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  main  stream  below  the  Gongola  confluence  stands 
Muri  (Hamaraica),  capital  of  the  Muri  vassal  state,  inhabited  chiefly  by  zealous 
Fulah  Mohammedans.  On  the  .opposite  sido  of  tLo  Bcnue  lies  the  city  of  Zhiru, 
enclosed  on  the  south  by  the  Adamawa  Mountains.  Wiikari,  capital  of  the 
Kororofa  state,  which  is  separated  from  Bautchi  by  the  main  stream  below  the 
Eaddera  junction,  was  visited  for  the  first  time  by  a  European  (Flegel)  in  1883. 
Like  Muri,  it  lies  some  distance  from  the  bank  of  the  river,  where  the  neighbouring 
ports  of  Tcharo,  Shibu,  Ibi  and  Anyashi  are  now  frequently  visited  by  explorers 

^7      :  '       '        Kg.  162.— Yakoba  awd  Mount  Sauamda.     ,     . 

:    ;  Senle  1 :  68*000. 


13  Miles. 


people.     In 


and  traders.  Danaqfa,  lying  higher  up  on  the  same  side,  is  noted  for  the  mines  of 
lead,  wrongly  said  to  be  of  antimony,  which  are  situated  two  or  three  days'  march 
in  the  interior. 

In  the  basin  of  the  Sungo,  which  joins  the  Benue  near  the  southernmost  point 
of  the  great  bend,  are  some  important  places,  such  as  Lq/ia,  Beri-Beri,  a  Kanuri 
settlement  60  miles  north  of  the  main  stream ;  Alahashi,  more  to  the  west,  and 
Keana,  on  the  rout«  between  Lafia  and  the  Benue,  capital  of  a  petty  state  tributary 
to  Wurno. 

Loho,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  main  stream,  90  miles  above  the  Lokojo 
confluence,  is  the  busiest  place  in  the  Benue  basin.  It  is  the  largest  ivory  market 
in  West  Afnca,  exporting  annually  from  fifty  to  sixty  tons  of  this  commodity. 
Midwoy  between  Loko  and  the  confluence  the  Benue  is  joined  by  the  Okwa 


836  WEST  AFRICA. 

(Kogna),  from  the  Scg-Seg  country,  where  lies  the  great  city  of  Kfffi  Ahd-es-Senga, 


80  uamed  from  its  founder,  who  built  it  in  1819,  and  peopled  it  with  Moslem 


mmmm 


Mrin 


th  Moslem 


ii.lllJI).W!|ii— — 


NVPB  WOMAN. 


„^&' 

••smm 

''"■' 

4 

f. 

_  ,-.-™-j 

ipip 

r 


•>, 


-IH  ,■ 


m. 


— .-Ti-  J^joimimiiiumwwwpwwi 


* 


LOKOJA.— ONITCIIA. 


887 


Fulahs  and  Huussawa.  At  the  tiino  of  Rohlf 's  visit  it  was  a  flourishing  place,  and 
the  ohi»'  >t!Ation  on  the  trade  route  between  Kano  and  the  Lower  Niger.  Some  45 
or  60  miles  north-east  of  the  Benue-Niger  confluence,  and  within  the  present 
kingdom  of  Nupe,  He  the  ruins  of  the  famous  city  of  Panda  {Feitdn),  formerly 
capital  of  the  powerful  kingdom  of  the  Igbara  nation,  destroyed  by  the  Fuluhs 
towards  the  middle  of  the  present  century. 

Since  the  commercial  importance  of  the  Benue  has  been  recognised,  the  Engliuh 
have  established  a  factory  at  the  village  of  Lokoja,  near  the  Niger  confluence,  and 
this  place  has  now  become  an  important  trading,  political,  and  religious  centre. 
Ighegbe,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  main  stream  below  the  junction,  was  formerly  a 
chief  stronghold  of  the  slave-hunters,  and  is  still  a  busy  trading-place.     Idda, 

Fig.  IA4.— Idda. 
Scale  1 :  110,000. 


6°*o- 


Caat  of   (jpcenwich 


6%5' 


Depths. 


Otolfl 

Feet 


16  Feet  and 
upwaida. 

•  3,800  Yuds. 


Oipital  of  the  Ibo  kingdom,  occupies  the  most  picturesque  position  in  the  Lower 
Niger  basini,  crowning  a  bluff  some  60  feet  high  on  the  left  bank,  here  everywhere 
skirted  by  rich  and  verdant  plains. 

Onitcha,  a  still  larger  place  than  Idda,  lies  about  2  miles  from  the  left  bank  on 
a  well-cultivated  terrace  rising  130  feet  above  the  low-water  level.  On  a  bluff  u 
little  higher  up  on  the  opposite  side  stands  the  town  of  Assaba  (Assabua),  where 
the  English  have  also  some  factories.  Till  recently  no  one  could  be  ennobled  in 
Assaba  without  offering  a  human  sacrifice  to  the  local  genii,  and  the  town  con- 
tained no  less  than  four  hundred  of  these  dignitaries.  Thanks  to  its  position, 
about  half-way  between  the  Niger-Benue  confluence  and  the  mouth  of  the  Nun, 
Onitcha  has  become  the  most  important  depot  along  the  whole  course  of  the  Niger, 


838 


WE8T  AFRICA. 


nnd  has  also  the  advantage  of  water  communication  with  some  very  populous 
(listrictH  on  both  slopes  of  the  river.  The  local  "  king  "  is  now  obliged  to  remain 
permanently  within  the  precincts  of  his  palace,  because  custom  requires  a  human 
victim  every  time  he  goes  abroad.  Once  a  year  only,  that  is,  during  the  yam 
feast,  ho  is  allowed  out  to  take  part  in  the  public  rejoicings.  In  the  midst  of  the 
unexplored  forests  stretching  eastward  lies  A ro,  the  mybterious  "city  of  sins," 
where  are  made  great  sacrifices  of  animals,  and  perhaps  of  men,  for  the  cleansing 

Fig.  ICo.— Onitcha. 

Scale  1  :  136,000. 


Depths. 


otoie 
Feet. 


16  to  38 
Feet. 


32  Feet  and 
npwarda. 


.  8.300  Tarda. 


of  the  people.     A  pilgrimage  to  this  place,  "where  dwells  the  Creator,"  is  held 
to  be  a  meritorious  act  even  by  the  Mussulmans  themselves.  x.* 

Along  both  banks  follow  several  other  towns  and  markets,  such  as  Oaomari 
and  Ndoiii  on  the  left,  Ebo  and  Wari  on  the  right  side,  the  latter  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  like  name,  and  in  an  island  near  the  bar  the  village  of  AA-emsa,  which 
has  become  a  chief  centre  of  the  commercial  operations  of  the  Royal  African 
Company. 

Bonny  and  Calabar. 

East  of  the  Nun,  the  estuaries  of  the  delta  and  of  Old  Calabar  have  received 
the  name  of  Oil-rivers  in  a  pre-eminent  sense.     Here  the  staple  of  the  export  trade 


^"^WMMMMM 


•.aMW 


uunmsium'm 


J. 


BEASS— BONNY. 


889 


^  populous 
I  to  rcmuin 
!8  a  humuu 
];  tho  yaiD 
idst  of  the 
y  of  sins," 
a  clcausiiig 


ii-^J: 


vich 


iter,"  is  held 

I  as  Osomari 
ipital  of  the 
.kassa,  which 
oyal  African 


lave  received 
export  trade 


is  palm-oil,  tho  chief  imports  being  rifles,  munitions,  textiles,  kitchen  utensils, 
hardware,  implements  of  all  sorts,  mirrors,  glassware,  and  coral. 

Brass,  the  tirst  important  trading-place  east  of  the  Nun,  lies  some  distance 
from  the  coast  amid  the  networjc  of  cliannels  connecting  tho  Niger  with  tho 
bonny.     Here  are  a  few  factories  on  tho  very  verge  of  the  forest,  hut  much  of  its 

Fig.  1G6. — BoNNT  AMD  New  Caiabab. 

Boalc  1  :  410,000. 


jreenwich 


0  toie 
feet. 


Deptba 


16  to  32 
Feet. 


B2toe4 
Feet. 


64  Feet  and 
upwardi. 


6  Miles. 


trade  has,  in  recent  years,  been  diverted  to  the  Niger  The  double  estuary  of 
Bonny  (Okoloma)  was  formerly  connected  with  that  of  New  Calabar  by  a  common 
mouth  now  separated  into  two  channels  by  an  island  of  recent  formation.  It  gives 
access  to  some  great  highways  of  trade  tr.iversing  vast  and  populous  but  almost 
unknown  regions  in  the  interior.  •  Bonny  was  the  most  frequented  station  of  the 
«  slavers,"  and  as  many  as  three  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  captives  were  said  to 


'W^m 


840 


WEST  AFRICA. 


have  boen  w)ld  in  the  markets  of  thin  estuary  during  the  first  twenty  years  of  the 
present  century. 

After  its  8Ui)])res8ion  in  1810  this  traffic  was  grudually  replaced  by  that  of  palm- 
oil,  of  which  nearly  twenty  thousand  tons  have  for  some  years  past  been  exported 

Fill.  107.— Old  Calabab  amh  Otoiro. 


SoO*  1 :  a,isu,ooo. 


E3 

Oto»2 
Feet. 


Depths. 


3  to  100 
Feet. 


160  to  640 
Feet. 


640  Feet  and 
npwaidi. 


,  aoMUes. 


from  Bonny  alone.  Owing  to  the  multitude  of  tribes  and  languages  now  repre- 
sented in  this  district,  English  has  become  the  almost  indispensable  medium  of 
general  intercourse.  Near  the  extreme  point  of  the  coast  below  Bonny  stands  the 
port  of  Fimema  (Fammeiia),  by  the  English  sailors  generally  called  Jew-Jew-towti, 


•..JlL, 


'^Ml 


8  now  repre- 
e  medium  of 
ly  stands  the 
ew-Jeu'-town, 


-^ 


*>-r^^ 


,;X 


■'•mmti^iim 


OLD  CALABAR. 


841 


because  bere  live  the  potent  riverain  magicians.  The  European  traders  do  not 
reside  on  the  coast,  but  in  hulks  grouped  together  to  form  a  floating  town.  Here 
may  be  procured  all  the  comforts  of  an  English  hotel,  and  the  decks  generally 
swarm  with  a  world  of  domestic  animals — monkeys,  birds,  sheep,  goats,  cats  and 
dogs,  and  other  pets.  Elegant  barges  of  European  build  ply  between  the  hulks 
and  the  shore,  and  the  estuaries  are  also  animated  by  solidly  constructed  native 
craft  embellished  with  original  decorative  designs. 

Some  70  miles  east  of  New  Calabar  lies  the  Old  Calabar,  or  simply  Calabar, 
estuary,  10  or  11  miles  wide  and  everywhere  studded  with  wooded  islands.  The 
various  groups  of  houses  known  by  the  collective  name  of  Calabar  all  stand  to 
the  north  of  this  estuary,  on  the  banks  of  the  Cross  River  (Oyono)  and  its  aflluents. 
Duke-town  (Afakpa),  where  the  hulks  are  moored,  lies  towards  the  head  of  the 
inlet,  near  the  junction  of  all  the  tributary  streams.  Creek-totm,  the  residence  of 
the  local  "  king,"  stands  still  farther  north,  on  the  slope  of  the  amphitheatre  of 
hills  above  the  course  of  the  stream ;  and  the  village  of  Old-town,  the  remains  of  a 
former  prosperous  station,  lies  midway  on  the  channel  leading  from  Duke-town  to 
Creek-town.  It  was  formerly  the  centre  of  the  local  traffic,  but  the  English 
traders,  wishing  to  divert  the  movement  to  their  factories  at  New-iotcn,  as  Duke- 
town  was  then  called,  invited  the  leading  members  of  the  rival  town  to  a  "  palaver  " 
on  board  their  hulks ;  then  it  is  stated  by  Clarkson  that  the  natives  had  scarcely 
moored  their  boats  to  the  hulks  when  they  were  shot  down  from  the  decks  {History 
of  the  Abolition  of  the  Slave-trade).  The  Qua  tribe  is  regarded  as  the  suzerain  of 
Old  Calabar,  and  as  such  receives  a  yearly  tribute. 

Ikorofiong,  higher  up  the  Cross  River,  where  the  first  sandstone  hills  are  seen, 
still  belongs  to  the  Calabar  district ;  but  Uman,  on  a  low  island  farther  north,  is 
governed  by  fetish  priests,  who  are  powerful  enough  to  enforce  the  old  sanguinary 
"customs."  Beyond  this  point,  some  60  miles  from  the  estuary,  the  river  enters 
the  territory  of  the  Akunakuna  tribe,  whose  capital,  Okitrike,  stands  on  a  range  of 
hills  skirting  the  left  bank.  English  influence  extends  no  farther  inland  than 
Okurik^,  although  the  Oyono  was  already  explored  in  1842  as  far  as  the  rapids 
near  the  north  foot  of  the  Cameroon  highlands.  Beyond  this  point  begin  the 
unexplored  regions,  which  Germany  already  claims  by  treaty  as  the  seat  of  its 
future  colonies.  * 


t^iwwmlM 


CHAPTER  VIII.  -^4>, 

THE    TSAD     BASIN. 

General  Survey. 

HE  geographical  centre  of  the  African  continent  is  not  an  Alpine 
range,  as  in  Europe  and  Asia,  but  on  the  contrary  a  deep  depres- 
sion largely  flooded  by  marsh  waters,  and  in  its  relief  inclining 
rather  tor-ards  the  Niger  and  the  western  regions.  East  and  south 
this  basin  is  encircled  by  mountains  and  uplands,  north  and  west 
by  disconnected  hills  and  terraces,  fulling  in  the  south-west  to  open,  low-lying 
plains,  through  which  the  great  lacustrine  depression  almost  merges  in  the  Benue 
hydrographic  system.  Thus  the  central  region  is  almost  everywhere  easily  acces- 
sible, and  also  contains  u  relatively  <]euse  population,  estimated  at  certainly  more 
than  seven  millions  in  a  total  area  exceeding  280,000  square  miles.  Thanks  to 
the  fertility  of  the  soil  and  its  rich  vegetation,  the  Tsad  basin  promises  to  become 
perhaps  the  most  flourishing  region  in  the  whole  of  Africa. 

But  this  inland  basin  has  not  yet  been  brought  into  direct  and  regular  com- 
munication with  the  civilised  world.  Years  pass  before  the  echo  reaches  Europe 
of  tlie  events  of  which  it  is  the  scene,  and  the  great  movements  of  migration,  wars 
and  conquests  remain  unknown.  Hitherto  its  direct  relations  have  mainly  been 
through  the  Dar-For  and  Wadai  routes  with  the  east,  whence  it  has  received  its 
Mohammedan  religion,  its  foreign  culture  and  knowledge  of  the  outer  world. 
The  highway  connecting  the  Tsad  basin  with  the  Mediterranean  seaboard  has 
been  of  far  less  historic  importance,  although  in  recent  times  more  frequented  by 
traders  from  the  north,  and  consequently  now  better  known.  But  this  more 
direct  route  is,  in  its  turn,  being  gradually  replaced  by  the  much  longer  but  easier 
south-western  water«'ay  of  the  Benue  and  Lower  Niger. 

The  Tsad  basin  has  hitherto  been  visited  by  few  European  exploiers,  and  this 
dangerous  journey  has  proved  fatal  to  several  of  those  who  have  attempted  it. 
Bornu  was  first  reached  in  1823  by  the  Fezzan  route  aqd  Kawar  oasis  by  Denham, 
Clapperton,  Oudney,  Hillman,  and  Toole ;  but  two  of  these  English  pioneers  never 
returned  to  their  native  land.  Over  a  quarter  of  a  century  passed  before  the  next 
expedition  was  undertaken  in  1851  by  Richardson,  Overweg,  and  Barth,  but  the 


-^r-riwwu^giw;.BWt»l^S^ 


ass 


SSISI 


MtM» 


.,J$„ 


THE  TSAD  BASIN. 


848 


-■Si;- 


an  Alpine 
5ep  depres- 
f  inclining 
t  and  south 
tlx  and  west 
I,  low-lying 
I  the  Benue 
iusily  acces- 
tainly  more 

Thanks  to 
IS  to  become 

egular  com- 
ihes  Europe 
^ration,  wars 
mainly  been 
received  its 
juter  world, 
eaboard  has 
squented  by 
t  this  more 
er  but  easier 

Brs,  and  this 
tttempted  it. 
by  Denham, 
ioneers  never 
fore  the  next 
irth,  but  the 


two  former  soon  perished,  while  their  successor,  Vogel,  met  with  a  violent  end  in 
Wadai,  the  same  fate  some  years  afterwarda  overtaking  Beurmann  in  Kanem. 
In  1871  and  1872  better  success  attended  Nachtigal,  who,  after  visiting  Borku 
and  Kanem,  successively  traversed  Bornu,  Baghirmi,  Wadai,  and  Dar-Foi-. 
Matteucci  and  Massari  foU'owed  in  1880,  but  no  traveller  has  yet  succeeded  in 
crossing  the  water-parting  which  separates  the  waters  flowing  north  to  I^ake  Tsad 
and  south  to  the  Congo.  Nor  has  any  European  yet  reached  the  Mendif  uplands, 
which  may  be  regarded  as  the  orographic  centre  of  the  continent,  dominating  at 
once  the  Nile,  Niger,  Tsad,  and  Congo  basins. 

Eastwards  the  natural  limit  of  the  Tsad  geographical  system  is  formed  by  the 

Fig.  168.— BouTBS  OF  Exflobebs  in  the  Tsad  Basin. 
Scale  J  :  12,000.000 


us: 


%' 


ladam       J^' 


t  I.  * 


A 


■-.        o. 


Abuhr 

■*;■■*■■■* 


(y;i»b.  .:••<•  A  V.    i.-w^ 


Eaat  of  Greenwich 


180  Miles. 


Marrah  range,  which  in  Dar-For  constitutes  the  divide  in  the  direction  of  the 
Nile.  Farther  west  the  plains  are  broken  by  some  secondary  chains,  such  as  the 
two  parallel  Tirdz^  ridges  running  north  and  south  in  Dnr-For  and  Wadai  at  an 
altitude  of  about  2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  falling  imperceptibly  northwards  in  the 
direction  of  the  Sahara,  and  continued  south-westwards  by  isolated  eminences  and 
by  the  Gher^  hills  occupying  a  large  part  of  West  Wadai.  West  of  the  Shari, 
some  of  whoso  affluents  flow  from  the  Ghen?  uplands,  the  divide  between  the  Tsad 
and  Benue  is  formed  by  the  Wandala  Mountains,  which  have  a  mean  elevation  of 
2,600  feet,  culminating  in  Mount  Magar,  about  3,000  feet  high.  Near  this  range 
rise  two  isolated  peaks,  Eamall^,  terminating  in  a  columnur  mass,  and  much  farther 


844 


WEST  AFBICA. 


south  the  twin-crested  Mendif,  which  at  a  distance  seem  white,  but  which  are  said 
to  be  really  blackish,  probably  basaltic,  the  white  appearance  being  due  to  a  deposit 
of  guano  from  the  myriads  of  birds  whirling  round  these  heights.  ,       .    ' 

Towards  the  west  the  incline  is  very  slight  from  the  plains  of  Bomu  to  the 
divide  separating  them  from  the  oceanic  basin.  The  absolute  height  of  the  hills 
does  not  exceed  2,000  feet,  except  in  the  isolated  Mount  Fika,  visible  in  all  direc- 
tions for  several  days'  march.  In  the  extreme  north  the  limits  of  the  Tsad  basin 
are  indicated  less  by  the  relief  than  by  the  climate,  although  some  chains  of  sand- 
hills, escarpments  of  the  plateau,  and  a  few  rockj'  eminences  vary  the  monotony  of 
the  steppe  zone  intermediate  between  the  forest  regions  and  the  Saharian  wastes. 

Lake  Tsad. 

Although  the  streams  flowing  westwards  from  the  Marrah  range  belong  to  the 
Tsad  system,  it  seems  probable  that  none  of  them,  except  on  rare  occasions,  actually 
reach  the  lake  or  its  great  tributary,  the  Sbari.  The  Wady  Azum  and  its  various 
affluents  form  a  permanent  watercourse  only  during  the  kharif,  or  rainy  season, 
and  even  then  the  slight  general  incline  and  the  intervening  eminences  cause  the 
sluggish  current  to  expand  in  shallow  meres,  soon  carried  off  by  evaporation. 
The  Batha,  which  rises  in  the  Tirdz^  hills,  flows  south-west  and  west  to  the  Fitri 
depression,  alternately  a  morass  and  a  lake,  according  to  the  abundance  of  the 
rainfall.  .«.;::, -'-'•'' ■    .   "-;  ;   •  ...•.--.,,,,. 4;::-:.'/-; 

In  the  language  of  the  riverain  populations  who  preceded  the  present  Kanuri 
masters  of  the  land,  Tsad  (Tsade,  Chad,  Chad^),  had  the  sense  of  "  great  body  of 
water,"  and  the  term  Kolo  (Eula),  applied  to  this  vast  flooded  depression  by  the 
Yedina  islanders,  appears  to  have  the  same  meaning.  Burckhardt  was  the  first 
to  describe  it  with  some  approach  to  accuracy.  All  Arab  traders,  accepting  the 
assumed  identity  of  the  Timbuktu,  Bomu,  and  Egyptian  waters,  regarded  Lake 
Tsad  either  as  a  common  reservoir  of  all  the  African  "  Niles,"  or  the  inland  sea  of 
a  great  central  plateau,  whence  the  rivers  escaped  in  ail  directions  to  the  periphery 
of  the  continent.  Since  Denham,  the  first  European  who  reached  the  lake,  which 
he  named  "Waterloo,"  accurate  surveys  have  shown  that,  on  the  contrary,  it 
occupies  one  of  the  lowest  regions  in  Africa,  standing,  accoiding  to  Vogel  and 
Nachtigal,  not  more  than  850  or  900  feet  above  sea-level,  while  its  hydrographic 
function  is  limited  to  collecting  the  surrounding  waters  in  a  completely  landlocked 
basin.  Its  actual  extent  cannot  yet  be  even  approximately  estimated,  the  sources 
and  headwaters  of  its  chief  affluent,  the  Shari,  being  still  unknown.  Nachtigal's 
tentative  calculation  of  11,000  square  miles  for  the  lake  alone  is  reduced  by  Rohlfs 
to  4,500  for  the  dry,  and  raised  to  22,000  for  the  wet  season. 

But  although  thus  rivalling  in  extent  some  of  the  other  great  lakes  of  the  Old 
and  New  Worlds,  Tsad  cannot  compare  with  them  in  the  depth  or  volume  of  its 
waters.  According  to  the  natives  the  greatest  depth  between  the  shore  near  Euka 
and  the  Shari  mouth,  is  only  '•  the  height  of  two  men,"  and  the  island  of  Seyorum, 
12  miles  off  the  coast,  may  be  reached  on  horseback.      In  the  deepest  parts  sur- 


*am 


3li  are  said 

0  a  deposit 

pnu  to  the 
f  the  hills 

1  all  direc- 
Fsad  basin 
OS  of  sand- 
lonotony  of 
in  wastes. 


long  to  the 
ns,  actually 
its  various 
liny  season, 
!S  cause  the 
ivaporation. 
to  the  Fitri 
mce  of  the 


ent  Kanuri 
pent  body  of 
sion  by  the 
iras  the  first 
cepting  the 
;arded  Lake 
aland  sea  of 
le  periphery 

lake,  which 
contrary,  it 
►  Vogel  and 
lydrographic 
Y  landlocked 
,  the  sources 

Nachtigal's 
;d  by  Rohlfs 


846 


WEST  AFRICA. 


the  Siberian  Balkash.  apparently  a  great  inland  sea.  in  reality  a  shallow  expansion 

of  the  Ilivcr  Hi.  ,  ,        -.        i.        ♦i.^ 

The  coastline  is  clearly  defined  only  at  the  northern  extremity,  where  the 
Saharian  sands  drifting  before  the  trade  winds  have  been  heaped  up  in  dunes 
whose  base  projects  like  a  headland  into  the  water.     Almost  everywhere  else  it 
wnoseuu      p    J  seems  impossible  to  say  where  the 

Fig.  170.-I^«  o,  TuBUHi.       .  land  ceases  and  the  water  begins. 

scale  i:8«oooo.  The  south-eastcomer,  and  farther 

north  the  part  near  the  Kanem 
coast,  are  occupied  by  groups  of 
islands,    covering,  according   to 
Nachtigal,  one-third  of  the  whole 
surface,  and  separated  from  each 
other    by    shallow    or    marshy 
straits.     The  southern  archipel- 
ago of  Karka  is  in  fact  a  mere 
assemblage  of  eminences  dotted 
over  a  morass,  which  if  drained 
would    present     an    appearance 
analogous  to  that  of  the  neigh- 
bouring land  of  Kanem,  where 
green  hills    and   leafy   thickets 
alternate  with  treeless  spaces. 

Besides  the  rains,  which  begin 
in  June,  Tsad  is  fed  by  large 
tributaries,  chiefly  from  Bomu  in 
the  west,  and  from  Baghii-mi  in 
the  south.      From  Bornu  come 
two  komodogu  or  "  rivers,"  which 
in  the  dry   season  shrink  to  a 
mere  chain  of  lagoons,  but  which 
during  the  rains  flow  in  a  con- 
tinuous  stream  much   too  deep 
and  rapid  to  be  forded.     The  Yen 
(Yoob^  ol  Nachtigal,  Waub^  of 
Barth),  has  its  farthest  sources 
in  Haussa   Land,  480  miles  to 
the  west,  and  it  drains  the  whole 
of  West  Bomu,  and  apparently  also  the  Babir  territory  on  the  Adamawa  frontier, 
which  is  said  to  send  it  a  tributary  flowing  for  part  of  its  course  thr'^  .g,'i  in 

underground  gallery.  ^ 

Much  more  important  are  the  contributions  received  from  the  southen  regions 
watered  by  the  copious  tropical  rains.  The  streams,  such  as  the  Mbulu,  rising  in 
the  Mandura  country,  flow  sluggishly  over  the  level  plains,  expanding  into  vast 


Mil 


i'^'''j|i"»e- 


.'■.!.'■'»■'" 


LAKE  TSAD. 


847 


expansion 

where  the 
3  in  dunes, 
here  else  it 
y  where  the 
iter  begins, 
and  farther 
the  Kanem 
y  groups  of 
cording   to 
>f  the  whole 
I  from  each 
or    marshy 
rn  archipel- 
Eact  a  mere 
mces  dotted 
1  if  drained 
api)eoranco 
the  ueigh- 
nem,  where 
ify   thickets 
S9  spacoH. 
which  begin 
Bd  by  large 
om  Bomu  in 
Baghii-mi  in 
Bornu  come 
vers,"  which 
shrink   to  a 
as,  but  which 
»w  in  a  con- 
ich  too  deep 
}d.    The  Yeu 
al,  Waub^  of 
ihest  sources 
480  miles  to 
lins  the  whole 
aawa  frontier, 
je  thr<\  .fi-i  in 

ithera  regions 
3ulu,  rising  in 
ling  into  vast 


sheets  of  water,  and  for  weeks  and  months  together  interrupting  all  communica- 
tions. Lake  Tuburi  is  the  centre  of  a  series  of  higoons  presenting  u  continuous 
waterway  between  the  Upper  Benue  and  the  Tsad,  while  during  the  ruins  all  the 
brunches  of  the  Shari  delta,  on  the  south  side,  are  merged  in  a  common  stream  JiO 
miles  wide.  When  this  great  body  of  water  reaches  the  lake  it  begins  to  rise 
rapidly,  attaining  its  highest  level  towards  the  end  of  November. 

The  Shari,  which  in  the  local  idioms  has  the  same  meaning  as  Tsad,  is  one  of 
the  great  rivers  of  Africa,  the  problem  of  whose  source,  however,  is  not  vet 
completely  solved.  At  the  same  time,  iSchweinfurth's  suggestion  that  the  Welle 
of  the  Monbottu  and  Niara-Niam  regions  is  its  upper  course,  is  now  rejected  by 
most  geographers,  who  regard  the  Welle  as  an  affluent  of  the  Congo.  The 
farthest  eastern  headstreams  of  the  Shari  are  probably  still  over  600  miles  from 

Fig.  171.— The  Ba  Busso,  ou  Eastebw  Shari.  at  Miskin,  Soutii-East  of  Looox. 


the  source  of  the  Welle,  taking  their  rise  in  the  southern  uplands  of  Dar-For  and 
Wadai.  According  to  the  natives,  the  ramifications  of  its  delta  begin  360  miles 
above  its  mouth,  at  a  point  where  it  divides  into  two  ba  or  chief  branches,  the  Ba 
Bai,  or  Logon,  flowing  to  the  left,  the  Ba  Busso,  or  Shari  proper,  to  the  right. 
But  however  this  be,  the  eastern  arm  after  receiving  the  Bahr-el-Abiad  ("  White 
River  "),  from  the  Banda  territory,  throws  off  a  branch,  the  Ba  Batchikam.  which 
is  again  united  150  miles  lower  down.  Farther  on  both  main  branches  are 
merged  in  one,  while  a  number  of  secondary  channels  find  their  way  in  shifting 
beds  to  the  lake. 

The  annual  discbarge  of  the  Shari  is  roughly  estimated  by  Nachtigal  at  over 
2,100  billion  cubic  feet,  or  an  average  of  70,000  per  second,  this  quantity  being  at 
least  double  the  supply  received  by  the  lake  from  all  other  influents  and  the 


iip[TBp;.;jffiiy^fflf»!t>^ 


■■r':'-V,. 


848 


WEST  AFRICA. 


P'I'K'"' 


rainfaU  taken  together.  The  total  rise  caused  by  all  these  contnbutionB  is 
estimated  by  Rohlf s  at  about  30  feet,  the  area  of  the  flooded  depression  increasing 
during  the  inundations  by  many  thousand  square  miles,  and  exceeding  in  extent 
the  lake  of  Geneva  ten  or  even  twenty  times. 

Unlike  all  other  large  closed  basins.  Tsad  is  a  freshwater  lake,  a  phenomenon 
all  the  more  surprising  that  wells  sunk  in  Kanem  yield  a  brackish  fluid,  while 
«.veral  islands  in  the  eastern  archipelago  contain  saltpetre.  Doubtless  its  main 
influent,  the  Shari,  flows  through  a  region  extremely  poor  in  salt;  but  if  the  lake 

Fig.  172.— Tsad  and  Bahb-bi.-Gh4;5al. 

Scale  1  :  6,000,000. 


17' 

•^■'^^i 

%• 

I  Hi! 


were  of  great  geological  age.  the  saline  particles,  however  small  in  quantity, 
must  necessarily  have  accumulated  by  the  effect  of  concentration  and  evaporation, 
whence  the  inference  that  this  reservoir  is  of  comparatively  recent  formation. 
At  present  it  is  the  scene  of  incessant  change,  due  mainly  to  the  action  of  the 
Shari,  whose  alluvial  delta  advancing  on  the  south  .side  causes  the  liquid  domain 
to  encroach  on  the  other  sides,  and  especially  on  the  west  coast,  where  the  route 
between  Bornu  and  Kanem  is  constantly  receding  farther  and  farther  inland. 
Here  the  district  of  Kuka  is  exposed  to  frequent  inundations,  which  laid  the  city 
under  water  in  1873,  when  the  Sheikh  proposed  to  remove  his  residence  much 


Vi¥iiWViiii)4i(ii.ira(t>fi.;i''.ti^ii^". 


3«aiw'Mniitf(iii|j>»i>iri 


nii 


'■'-'-!fi. 


LAKE  TSAD. 


849 


ributions  is 
1  increasing 
g  in  extent 

jhenonaenon 

fluid,  while 

Bss  its  main 

t  if  the  lake 


"N/ 


^■^■if' 


farther  west.  For  the  same  reason  several  other  towns,  such  as  Ngigmi  in  the 
north-west  corner,  have  had  to  be  rebuilt  farther  inland. 

While  the  water  is  thus  advancing  westwards,  it  is  retiring  on  the  opposite 
side,  where  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal,  although  at  a  lower  level  than  the  Tsad,  has  been 
gradually  drying  up.  This  watercourse  was  long  supposed  to  be  a  tributary  of 
the  lake,  until  Nachtigal's  surveys  confirmed  the  original  statement  »^  Denham 
and  Clapperton,  that  it  is  really  an  old  emissary,  which  is  even  still  occasionally 
flooded.  At  the  time  of  Nachtigal's  visit,  the  current  penetrated  some  50  miles 
into  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal,  which  according  to  the  local  tradition,  only  ceased  to  be 
a  regular  affluent  about  liie  second  half  of  the  last  century.  Some  infiltration 
probably  still  goes  on  beloK'  the  surface,  where  brackish  water  can  always  be 
found  at  depths  of  from  4  to  P  or  7  feet. 

According  to  Nachtigal's  preliminary  survey,  the  Bnhr-el-Ghazal  flowed  first 
east,  then  north-east  for  about  300  miles  to  the  Bodele  depression,  at  the  foot  of 
the  Borku  escarpments.  West  of  this  point  occurs  another  broad  depression, 
that  of  Egay,  also  at  a  lower  level  than  Tsad,  and  separated  from  the  Bahr-el- 
Ghazal  by  a  barrier  of  dunes.  Here  the  sandhills,  all  disposed  in  the  direction 
from  north-east  to  south-west,  generally  move  with  considerable  rapidity  under 
the  action  of  the  regular  trade-winds.  Where  the  original  lacustrine  bed  is  not 
concealed  by  these  sands,  it  is  found  strewn  with  the  remains  of  fish  in  such 
numbers  and  so  well  preserved  that  a  naturalist  might  here  conveniently  study 
the  ichthyology  of  the  Tsad  basin.  At  present  there  are  neither  cultivated  tracts 
nor  permanent  settlements  in  this  region,  where,  however,  Nachtigal  discovered 
the  remains  of  a  city,  and  where  the  Sonusiya  missionaries  have  announced  their 
intention  of  founding  an  establishment  near  the  copious  Galakka  springs,  on  the 
route  between  Bodele  and  Borku. 


lel 


.  in  quantity, 
.d  evaporation, 
jnt  formation, 
action  of  the 
liquid  domain 
dere  the  route 
farther  inland, 
h  laid  the  city 
•esidence  much 


Climate. — Flora. — Fauna. 

The  climate  of  Bomu  is  much  more  equable  than  that  of  the  Sahara,  the 
difference  of  temperature  being  much  less  perceptible  between  day  and  night,  and 
scarcely  exceeding  17°  F.  between  the  hottest  and  coldest  months.  According 
to  Denham  the  mean  for  the  year  at  Euka  is  82",  falling  to  75°  in  December, 
and  rising  to  91°  in  April.  Throughout  most  of  the  year  the  trade  winds  prevail, 
flowing  sometimes  from  the  north-east,  at  others  parallel  with  the  equator.  The 
rainfall  increases  generally  in  the  direction  from  north  to  south,  and  from  east  to 
west,  and  is  consequently  much  heavier  in  Bornu  than  in  Wadai,  in  the  Shari 
basin  than  in  Eanem,  and  heaviest  in  the  Mandara  uplands,  where  the  wet  season 
lasts  seven  full  months,  and  sometimes  even  more.  In  Bomu  the  corresponding 
period  begins  towards  the  end  of  May,  and  is  over  at  the  end  of  September,  here 
the  mean  annual  rainfall  being  certainly  more  than  40  inches.  The  remaining 
eight  months  are  divided  into  a  dry  and  a  hot  season,  the  former  following,  the 
latter  preceding,  the  rains,  and  the  transition  between  all  these  periods  being 
everywhere  very  abrupt. 


i,^ii^|(;i(ifi!Aj><»i.*a8jM$f(^i»^;>BliP 


LAKE  T9AD. 


861 


^.  '-iy. 


In  the  intormedittte  zono  between  the  Siihum  and  Sudan,  the 
vegetation  are  graminaceous  phmts  and  trocH  not  requiring  much  oisture,  flu«  i 
as  the  acacias,  the  prevailing  Mpecies  of  which  traverse  the  whole  conh'nont  \t\nu 
the  Red  Sea  to  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic.  Ilcjre  animal  life  is  surprisingly  rich, 
including  va^t  herds  of  antelopes  and  gazelles,  of  giraflfes  and  elephants,  ostriches 
still  as  numerous  as  they  ever  were  on  the  Algerian  plateau,  and  the  hippojjotumus 
in  the  lake  and  all  its  affluents.  Kapacioua  beasts,  such  as  the  lion  and  hyocua, 
are  also  met  in  this  region,  vrhile  in  the  forests  the  weaver-bird  hangs  its  nest  on 
every  pliant  bough,  and  the  shallow  waters  are  animatetl  by  flocks  of  ducks,  geese, 
pelicans,  storks,  and  herons.  Snakes  are  numerous,  and  after  every  shower  the 
ground  swarms  with  centipedes  and  other  insects. 

South  of  the  border  zone,  veg^etation  increases  in  vigour  and  variety  in  the 
direction  of  the  equator.  The  dum  palm,  rare  and  stunted  in  the  steppe,  acquires 
its  full  development  in  the  interior  of  Bornu,  and  on  the  plains  of  Baghirmi  and 
the  Mandara  territory,  here  and  there  acconipauied  by  the  deleb  palm,  and  every- 
where associated  with  the  leafy  tamarind-tree,  and  in  the  south  with  the  gigantic 
baobab.  In  South  Baghirmi  the  forest  vegetation  prevails  everywhere,  the  trees 
increasing  in  size  and  presenting  several  new  species  peculiar  to  the  tropics,  such 
aa  the  Eriodendron  an/ractuosum,  yielding  a  down  soft  as  that  of  the  eider ;  tho  still 
more  useful  butter- tree  [bassia  Parkii),  so  valuable  in  a  country  where  the  domestic 
animals  supply  but  little  milk,  and  the  Parkin  biglohoaa,  whose  berry  affords  an 
extremely  nutritious  flour.  :  .  •*'         -, 

In  these  forest  regions  the  charactenstic  animals  are  the  cynocephalous  apes, 
lions,  and  other  felidac,  elephants,  the  hippopotamus,  and  in  South  Wudai  the 
abu-kom,  or  two-homed  rhinoceros.  Baghirmi  is  described  by  Barth  and  Nachtigal 
as  a  land  teeming  beyond  most  others  in  insect  life,  scorpions,  ants,  and  termites 
swarming  everywhere,  while  certain  districts  are  infested  by  the  tsetse  fly,  or  some 
analogous  pest.  Pyramidal  termite-hills  are  frequently  seen,  resembling  the 
native  huts,  but  more  solidly  built,  and  for  centuries  resisting  the  action  of  the 
tropical  sun  and  rains.  Some  were  seen  by  Barth  which  stood  40  feet  high 
with  a  circumference  of  about  70  yards.  During  the  rainy  season,  when  they 
assume  wings,  the  termites  hover  heavily  about  their  nests,  and  are  then  captured 
and  devoured  in  vast  quantities  by  the  natives.  They  are  found  in  endless  variety  : 
some  almost  microscopic,  iwme  nearly  an  inch  long ;  some  black,  grey,  or  green, 
others  brown,  red,  or  white ;  some  forming  warlike  aristocracies,  others  communistic 
republics,  but  all  equally  industrious  and  hardworking,  whence  the  term  kida-kida 
( *•  work-work  " )  applied  to  them  by  the  natives. 

*  Lake  Tsad  appears  to  abound  iu  fish,  which  form  the  staple  food  of  the 
islanders,  and  which  are  largely  exported  to  the  interior  of  Bornu.  The  lacustrine 
fauna  includes  some  much-dreaded  carnivorous  species,  and  the  mahcoptemrus,  a 
dangerous  electric  fish,  besides  the  manatus  Vogelii,  a  cetacean  so  named  from  the 
traveller  who  first  described  it. 

In  the  Tsad  basin  the  chief  cereals  are  dokhn  and  durra,  the  former  cultivated 
in  the  sandy  districts  of  the  north,  the  latter  iu  the  stronger  soil  of  the  south. 


862 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Crnps  uro  ulso  ruisod  of  maize,  rice,  nosamo,  nml  jfround-natu,  benides  a  little  wheut 
and  burley,  which,  like  the  fig,  citron,  and  pomegranate,  are  of  recent  introduction. 
Those  trePH  grow  to  an  enormous  size,  but  the  fruits  are  inferior  in  flavour  to  those 
of  the  Mediterrimenn  regions. 

Ilornwl  cuttle,  horseH,  asses,  fthcop,  and  goats  thrive  well,  and  despite  the  pre- 
cepts of  Islam,  the  jK^ople  of  Kuka  keep  herds  of  swine,  which  act  as  scavengers  in 
concert  with  the  carrion  birds.  In  Bornu  camels  are  rare,  except  in  the  north, 
where  the  Kf)yam  people  havo  succeeded  in  acclimatising  a  particular  variety. 
Of  o.\en  there  are  several  breeds,  of  which  one  is  distinguished  by  enormous  horns 
growing  in  the  form  of  a  lyre  20  inches  in  circumference  at  the  base ;  while 
another  has  a  hump  like  that  of  the  zebu,  and  short  movable  horns  rocking  at 
every  step.  The  horses,  introduced  from  the  north  during  the  period  of  the 
Mohammedan  invasion,  are  of  the  Barbary  stock,  which  they  still  equal  in  endur- 
ance, vivacity,  and  speed.  All  these  domestic  animals  are  carefully  tended  in  well- 
kept  stables,  and  protected  against  the  "  evil  eye  "  by  high  enclosures  furnished 
with  amulets.  , 


Wa»ai. 

In  the  Tsad  basin  the  political  preponderance  belongs  at  present  to  Wadu'  or 
Borgu,  which  is,  nevertheless,  neither  the  richest  nor  the  most  populous  statt  in 
this  region.  Wadai,  properly  so-called,  is  a  country  of  small  extent  lying  west  of 
the  low  Tirdze  range,  scarcely  one-tenth  of  the  subdued  territory,  not  even  reckon- 
iiig  the  vassal  states  of  Kanem  and  Baghirmi.  The  sultan's  dominions,  which  are 
scarcely  anywhere  clearly  defined,  are  officially  conterminous  with  Dar-B'or,  from 
which,  however,  they  are  separated  by  no  natural  frontier,  but  rather  by  an  inter- 
mediate neutral  zone  or  borderland  occupied  by  nomad  populations.  Towards  the 
north  and  north-west  the  frontiers  os^cillate  with  the  migrations  of  subject  tribes 
moving  from  camping- ground  to  camping -ground ;  the  western  limits  also  are 
frequently  modified  by  wars  and  marauding  expeditions,  while  southwards  the 
territories  of  the  reduced  tribes  have  no  known  confines.  But  the  area  of  the 
empire  with  all  its  tributary  states  and  dependencies  may  be  roughly  estimated  at 
about  180,000  square  miles,  with  a  scanty  population — according  to  Nachtigal,  not 
exceeding  two  millions  six  hundred  thousand. 

Nearly  all  the  attempts  hitherto  made  to  visit  Wadui  have  ended  in  disaster. 
Curry  and  Beuimann  both  perished,  one  approaching  from  the  east,  the  other 
from  the  west.  Vogel  reached  the  capital  in  1855,  but  only  to  be  murdered  by 
the  fanatical  Mussulman  inhabitants;  Nachtigal,  however,  who  crossed  the  frontier 
in  1873,  was  more  fortunate,  by  his  prudent  conduct  overcoming  prejudice  and 
securing  friends  even  amongst  the  most  zealous  Mohammedans.  Matteucci  and 
Mussari  also  were  at  least  able  to  traverse  the  country  rapidly  and  under  escort  in 

1879.     '^^     ,  ■■    ■  _     V-    :.:     ^;-..,.'-   .■■:<,   .rfv;*^    .>:a^ 

The  Arab  element  is  relatively  much  larger  in  "Wadai  than  in  any  other  part 
of  Central  or  Western  Sudan.  The  indigenous  races  have,  neveriieless,  maintained 
the  preponderance,  and  the  Negro  Maba  nation,  comprising  one-seventh  of  the 


f{iiir%.afeiini».M;ai;iii,iii*.FtrtMM'^T,nii,iia^^ 


little  wheat 
ntrod  action, 
our  to  those 

lite  the  pre- 
.'uvengers  in 
I  the  north, 
liar  variety, 
rmous  horns 
buso  ;  while 
)  rocking  at 
iriotl  of  the 
al  in  endur- 
idcd  in  Well- 
es furnished 


to  Wada  or 
ilous  state  in 
lying  west  of 
even  reckon- 
18,  which  are 
lar-For,  from 
■  by  an  inter- 

Towards  the 
ubject  tribes 
(nits  also  are 
uthwards  the 
!  area  of  the 

estimated  at 
I^achtigal,  not 

)d  in  disaster. 
iBt,  the  other 
I  murdered  by 
d  the  frontier 
prejudice  and 
ilatteucci  and 
nder  escort  in 

my  other  part 
88,  maintained 
sventh.  of  the 


WADAI. 


858 


whole  population,  claim  to  be  nobles  amongst  the  nobles,  founding  their  preten- 
sions on  their  early  conversion  to  Islam.  Their  speech  is  widely  diffused  amongst 
the  surrounding  tribes  as  the  general  medium  of  social  and  comraorciiil  inter- 
course. 

South  and  south-cust  of  the  Mabas  dwell  the  Abu-Sharibs,  separated  from  the 
kindred  Tuinas,  who  occupy  the  uplands  of  the  sumo  name  north-east  of  Warn, 
former  capital  of  the  kingdom.  Like  their  Kadoi  neighlwurs  they  are  a  valiant 
race,  who  long  maintained  their  independence  against  the  Mabas.  Other  power- 
ful peoples  are  thf  ocently  subdued  Massalits  in  the  eastern  borderland  between 
Wadai  and  Dar-For,  and  the  Kukas  and  Bulalas,  founders  of  the  Fitri  state,  who 
still  enjoy  a  measure  of  independence,  and  whose  sultan,  although  now  tributary 
to  Wadai,  is  considered  of  more  noble  origin  than  his  suzerain  chief.  North  of 
Wadai  proper,  the  Zoghawas,  as  well  as  the  kindred  Dazas  an^l  Tedas,  are  repre- 
sented by  some  zealous  Mohammedan  tribes. 

Wadai  is  at  present  a  chief  centre  of  religious  propaganda  the  Maba  sultan 
having  become  the  ally  of  the  Senusiya  sect.  Nevertheless,  rat  st  of  the  subject 
tribes  or  vassals  in  the  south  hove  remained  pagans,  or  are  at  moi  t  merely  nominal 
Mohammedans.  Thus  the  Kutis,  akin  to  their  Moslem  neighbours  the  Rungas, 
still  practise  witchcraft,  while  other  "  Kafir "  populations  inhabit  the  southern 
region  vaguely  known  as  Dar-Banda.  Like  the  Niam-Niams  still  farther  south, 
the  Banda  people  are  cannibals,  and  worship  a  goddess  Wamba,  to  whom  they  offer 
beer  and  the  first-fruits  of  the  chase.  This  country,  say  the  natives,  is  bounded 
southwards  by  the  Bahr  Kuta,  a  great  rivei  inhabited  by  crocodiles  and  hii-ijopota- 
muses,  and  very  probably  identical  with  the  Welle  or  some  other  grcn  affluent 
of  the  Congo. 

Of  the  Arabs,  collectively  known  in  Wadai  by  the  name  of  Aramka,  the  most 
numerous  tribe  are  the  Mahamids,  settled  in  the  country  for  over  five  hundred 
years,  and  very  rich  in  camels  and  other  live  stock.  They  pitch  their  tents 
especially  in  the  northern  valley,  and  on  the  steppes  stretcning  away  to  Borku 
and  Tibesti.  The  other  Arabs  of  Wadai,  more  or  less  mixed  with  Nuba  blood, 
are  divided  into  the  two  groups  of  the  Soruks,  or  "  Blacks,"  and  Homr,  or  "  Reds." 
The  Arab  element  is  also  largely  represented  among  the  Jellabas,  or  traders, 
whose  caravans  penetrate  west  to  Sudan,  south  tu  Dar-Buuda,  and  south-east  to 
Baghirmi,  taking  slaves,  ivory,  ostrich  feathers,  and  copper  in  exchange  for  salt 
and  European  wares.  .-  -•• 

ToPO^-vAPHY   AND   ADMlNISTRAXrON   OF  WaDAT. 

'  Abeshr  {AbesMh),  present  capital  of  Wadai,  lies  in  the  Maba  country,  near  the 
caravan  route  leading  from  Kuka  through  Dar-For  and  Kordofan  to  Khartum. 
It  is  a  modern  town,  founded  in  1850  by  a  sovereign  whose  previous  residence, 
Wara,  was  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  the  surrounding  highland  populations.  Of 
Wara,  situated  24  miles  north  of  Abeshr,  nothing  re-nains  except  a  brick  mosque 
and  minaret,  and  on  the  summit  of  a  rock  a  sacred  cabin,  where,  on  his  accession, 


I  •':<  I  t'^f0v:  I  <ilitw^iiiji»fci.jii|"  '^  .tiij^jiy^itfiiiJ^  ;,y 


B54 


W^.ST  AFEICA. 


the  sultan  has  to  make  a  seven  days*  retreat.  It  was  for  rashly  penetrating  into 
this  hallowed  spot  that  Vogel  seems  to  have  been  put  to  death. 

Niinro,  west  of  Wara,  is  the  centre  of  the  Jellaba  traders,  but  not  their  chief 
depot.  Of  the  other  groups  of  population  the  largest  is  Kodogm,  120  miles  south  of 
Aoeshr,  in  a  district  inhabited  by  Arabs  and  Abu-Sharibs.  Yawa,  on  Lake  Fitri, 
capital  of  the  Bulalas,  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  oldest  places  in  Sudan. 

The  Sultan  of  Wadai,  a  member  of  the  Ghemir  (Nuba)  tribe,  is  the  direct 
ruler  only  of  the  northern  part  of  the  kingdom.  This  territory  is  divided,  like 
Dar-For,  into  provinces  named  from  the  cardinal  points,  and  governed  by 
kemukels,  or  lieutenants,  with  the  right  of  life  and  death  over  their  subjects  on  the 
condition  of  remitting  to  the  sultan  the  customary  tribute.  This  tribute  varies 
according  to  usage  and  the  local  conditions,  some  places  furnishing  slaves,  some 
horses  or  cattle,  others  honey  or  corn.  In  the  administration  of  the  country  the 
Sultan  is  assisted  by  the  fasher,  or  "privy  councU,"  while  the  laws — that  is,  the 
Koran  and  its  commentaries — are  interpreted  by  \hefakih  or  ulima,  although  local 
usage  still  largely  prevails.  The  army,  of  about  seven  thousand  men,  is  chiefly 
employed  in  enforcing  the  payment  of  tribute  in  Baghirmi  and  the  other  vassal 
states.  ■  '  ;.>    v     ,,;:.■  v   >-  ,"    •  • 

Kanem. 

Taken  in  its  general  acceptation,  Kanem  is  the  region,  some  30,000  or  32,000 
square  miles  in  extent,  which  is  bounded  on  the  south-west  by  Lake  Tsad,  on  the 
south-east  by  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal  depression,  on  the  west  by  the  great  caravan 
route  from  Bornu  to  Tripoli,  and  on  the  north  by  the  line  of  wells  on  the  verge  of 
the  desert.  But  in  a  narrower  sense  Eanem,  properly  so  called,  is  the  triangidar 
space  whose  base  is  formed  by  the  shore  of  the  lake,  and  apex  by  the  two 
latitudinal  and  meridional  lines  running  north  and  south-east  from  the  two  comers 
of  the  lacustrine  basin.  Within  this  region  of  woods  and  cultivated  tracts  are 
concentrated  nearly  all  the  inhabitants  of  Eanem,  who  are  estimated  at  scarcely 
more  than  one  himdred  thousand.  Northwards  stretch  the  almost  level  Manga 
plains,  forming  an  intermediate  steppe  zone  towards  the  desert.   4  /  •  .^^^^^         .  ^i.-r--:^^:-: 

The  kingdom  of  Kanem  was  for  five  hundred  years,  from  the  beginning  of  the 
tenth  century,  the  hotbed  of  the  Mussulman  propaganda,  and  the  most  powerful 
kingdom  in  Central  Africa  Then  about  1500  the  centre  of  political  influence 
was  displaced  towards  Bornu  under  the  influence  of  the  Bulala  invaders  from  the 
east,  a  people  akin  to  the  Kanuri.  Since  that  time  Kanem  has  never  recovered  its 
independence,  passing  successively  from  the  Bulalas  and  Kanuris  to  the  Dazas  and 
its  present  Arab  rulers,  the  Aulad-Slim&n,  who  are  regarded  as  the  masters  of  the 
country,  although  form'ing  a  mere  fraction  of  the  population,  and  in  1871 
mustering  not  more  than  one  thousand  armed  men.  Yet  this  handful  of  warlike 
clansmen,  often  at  feud  among  themselves  over  the  distribution  of  the  plunder, 
contrive  to  keep  in  a  state  of  terror  all  the  popiUations  comprised  between  Bornu, 
Air,  and  Wadai.  By  the  Dazas  and  others  bordering  on  North  Sudan  they  are 
called  Minnemime  or  "  Devourers,"  a  name  said  to  be  given  to  them  on  account  of 


'J^ 


j-,«iifi«a:.e'*ci. 


KANEM. 


866 


snetrating  into 

not  their  chief 
)  miles  south  of 
on  Lake  Fitri, 

B,  is  the  direct 
is  divided,  like 
governed  by 
subjects  on  the 
3  tribute  varies 
ig  slaves,  some 
;he  country  the 
'8 — that  is,  the 
,  although  local 
men,  is  chiefly 
;he  other  vassal 


0,000  or  32,000 
ke  Tsad,  on  the 
3  great  caravan 
on  the  verge  of 
s  the  triangular 
BX  by  the  two 
the  two  comers 
"^ated  tracts  are 
lated  at  scarcely 
mt  level  Manga 

i)eginning  of  the 

)  most  powerful 

>litical  influence 

ivaders  from  the 

ver  recovered  its 

;o  the  Dazas  and 

le  masters  of  the 

a,   and  in   1871 

ndful  of  warlike 

of  the  plunder, 

between  Bornu, 

Sudan  they  are 

jra  on  account  of 


their  gluttony,  but  which  may  be  accepted  in  a  figurative  sense ;  for  they  have 
verily  devoured  the  land  on  which  they  have  pitched  their  tents,  and  in  many 
places  they  have  passed  like  a  whirlwind,  sweeping  before  them  the  iuhubitants 
with  their  flocks  and  all  their  substance. 

The  Aulad-Sliman  come  from  the  Mediterranean  seaboard,  where  some  of  their 
kinsmen  still  survive,  but  whence  the  bulk  of  the  tribe  were  driven  southwards 
after  long  and  sanguinary  wars  with  the  Turks  of  Tripolitana.     Settling  in  Kanem 


Kg.  174.— Inhabitantb  of  Kaneii. 

8<ule  1  :  3,000,000. 


Kaoouri. 


Arabs. 


rmm         pa 

Makaii.  Oamergba. 

—  eo  Mttea. 


just  north  of  Lake  Tsad,  near  the  natural  trade  route  between  Sudan  and  the 
Mediterranean,  they  first  raided  in  the  Kwar  Oasis  and  Bilma  salines,  in  a  few 
years  capturing  over  fifty  thousand  camels.  But  having  on  one  occasion  fallen 
foul  of  the  Tuaregs,  these  terrible  children  of  the  desert  vowed  vengeance,  and  in 
1850  nearly  exterminated  the  tribe.  Yet  the  survivors,  joined  by  others  from  the 
north,  found  themselves  in  less  than  twenty  years  strong  enough  to  renew  their 
depredations,  and  to  revive  the  reign  of  terror  which  they  still  maintain  over  all 


866 


WEST  AFRICA. 


this  region.  In  vain  they  are  threatened  with  hell  by  the  Sonusiya  emissaries  if  they 
persist  in  spoiling  and  slaying  the  "  faithful."  To  them  the  "  peace  of  Islam  "  is  as 
naught,  for  scorning  work  they  delight  only  in  war  and  pillag^.  "  True,"  they 
confessed  to  Nachtigul,  "  that  wo  live  in  injustice  and  sin ;  but  to  earn  a  livelihood 
otherwise  we  should  have  to  work,  which  our  fathers  never  did,  and  it  would  be  a 
shame  and  a  treason  not  to  follow  their  example.  Besides,  why  are  the  cursed 
pagans  on  the  earth  except  to  work  for  a  nobler  race  P  "  Yet  these  "  pagans  "  are 
nearly  all  Mohammedans,  at  least  in  name,  and  are  often  even  allied  by  marriage 
to  the  Aulad-Slimftn,  from  whose  tyranny,  according  to  the  latest  reports,  they 
will  soon  be  released  by  the  intervention  of  the  8ultan  of  Wadai. 


The  Kanem-bu  and  Kuri  Peoples. 

The  Kanem-bu,  or  "  People  of  Kanem,"  former  masters  of  the  land,  are  also 
immigrants  from  the  north  at  an  unknown  date,  as  indicated  by  the  very  word 
Eanem,  which  means  "  South."  The  various  Daza  tribes  who  occupy  the 
northern  districts  have  also  a  unanimous  tradition  that  their  original  homes  lay 
to  the  north.  They  are  in  fact  related  to  the  Tedas,  or  northern  Tibbus,  with 
whom  thousands  of  them  still  dwell  at  the  foot  of  the  Tibesti  hills.  The  general 
movement  of  the  population  has  thus  been  southwards,  and  in  recent  times  large 
numbers  of  the  Eanem-bu  have  been  compelled  to  migrate  still  farther  towards 
iJornu,  the  marshy  shores  and  even  the  islands  of  Lake  Tsad,  where  they  have 
sought  shelter  from  the  raids  of  the  Aulad-Slim&n  marauders.  \f^r\'.^-<!^/.'i'i  •  ? 

The  Kanem-bu  are  distinguished  from  the  kindred  Tibbu  race  by  their  darker 
complexion,  larger  stature,  and  less  graceful  carriage.  In  the  remote  districts 
their  dress  is  limited  to  a  skin  or  leather  loin-cloth,  and  a  high  headdress  fastened 
under  the  chin  by  a  white  bandage,  which  may  be  regarded  as  a  survival  of  the 
litzani  or  veil  worn  by  the  Tibbus  and  Tuaregs  of  the  desert.  They  have  also 
retained  the  spear  and  other  weapons  of  the  nomads,  except  the  shangormangor,  or 
iron  dart.  They  regard  themselves  as  the  elder  brothers  of  the  Kanuris  of  Bornu, 
who  were  originally  an  advanced  colony  of  the  Kanem-bu,  and  who  during  their 
long  sojourn  in  a  more  fertile  and  civilised  region  acquired  greater  power  and 
social  refinement. 

Of  all  the  Kanem  peoples  the  Ngijcms  and  Danoas  alone  have  succeeded  in 
preserving  their  independence,  never  having  been  subdued  even  by  the  Aulad- 
Slim&n.  But  in  order  to  maintain  the  struggle  they  have  had  to  shift  their 
quarters  more  than  once,  and  in  recent  times  they  have  acknowledge  themselves 
vassals  of  Wadai.  The  Danoas  are  settled  in  the  south-east  part  of  Eanem, 
grouped  round  the  central  station  of  Nguri  in  the  woodlands  some  24  miles  from 
the  shores  of  Lake  Tsad.  Physically  speaking  they  differ  in  no  respect  from  the 
Kanem-bu,  and  like  them  speak  an  idiom  closely  related  to  the  Kanuri ;  but  their 
traditions  connect  them  with  the  Manga  nation  living  on  the  banks  of  the  Yeu  in 
West  Bornu. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Tsad  islands,  although  for  the  most  part  belonging  to 


kS:iWiK-'W'i--'.'«..-j-.j, 


varies  if  they 
Islam  "  is  as 
True,"  they 
a  livelihood 
t  would  be  a 
)  the  cursed 
pagans  "  are 
by  marriage 
■eports,  they 


and,  are  also 
e  very  word 

occupy  the 
il  homes  lay 
libbus,  with 

The  general 
/  times  large 
ther  towards 
:e  they  have 


their  darker 
note  districts 
Iress  fastened 
irvival  of  the 
ley  have  also 
ormangor,  or 
iris  of  Bornu, 

during  their 
>r  power  and 

succeeded  in 
)y  the  Aulad- 
to  shift  their 
d  themselves 
•t  of  Eanem, 
4  miles  from 
pect  from  the 
iri ;  but  their 
)f  the  Yeu  in 

belonging  to 


11)111111  <L  iimmjm 


EANEM. 


8S7 


different  races,  are  co..jiected  at  least  geographically  with  the  populations  of 
Eanem.  Lying  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  east  coast,  the  shifting  insular 
groups  are  sufficiently  accessible  to  afford  a  refuge  to  fugitives  from  the  mainland. 
Hence  numerous  Eanem-bu,  Dazas,  and  others  are  here  settled  either  temporarily 
or  permanently,  while  hundreds  of  Arabs  have  for  generations  been  encamped 
round  the  inlet  comprised  between  the  Shuri  delta  and  the  Bahr-el-Ghuzal 
etiluent. 

The  Kuri,  occupying  some  fifteen  islands  north  of  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal  outHow, 
are  regarded  as  the  true  aborigines  of  the  archipelago,  no  traditions  associating 
them  with  the  mainland.  They  are  of  very  dark  complexion,  tall  and  robust 
figures,  resembling  in  appearance  and  speech  the  Makari  Negroes  on  the  south 
side  of  the  lake.  By  intermixture  with  Kanem-bu,  Arabn,  and  others,  they  have 
been  diversely  modified,  forming  in  the  northern  islands  the  subrace  of  the  Yedinas 
or  Buddumas.  Some  sixty  islands  are  occupied  by  these  barbarians,  who,  accord- 
ing to  Nachtigal,  number  about  fifteen  thousand,  or  one-half  of  the  whole  insular 
population.  Stockbreeders,  fishers,  boatmen,  and  traders,  the  Yedinas  also 
occasionally  turn  to  piracy,  and,  although  calling  themselves  vassals  of  the  sultan 
of  Bomu  in  order  to  have  access  to  the  Euka  market,  they  make  no  scruple  of 
plundering  the  subjects  of  their  pretended  suzerain.  During  the  floods  they  are 
able  to  penetrate  into  the  very  streets  of  the  surrounding  villages,  wh^re  they  slay 
the  men  and  carry  off  the  women  and  children.  Yet  the  Bomu  rulers  have  never 
fitted  out  a  fleet  to  pursue  these  daring  corsairs  amid  the  intricate  channels  of 
their  insular  domain.  Naval  battles  have  often  been  fought  on  the  lake,  some- 
tiraea  an  many  m  two  biaiired  large  •:^att  being  oiigi..gjd,  bui  ulwajj  betweea  the 
Euri  and  Yedinas  themselves.  These  incessant  wars  decimate  the  population, 
which  still  increases  naturally  at  a  rapid  rate,  as  amongst  most  fish-eating  peoples. 
All  the  Euri  are  Mohammedans,  but  the  Yedinas  are  so  in  name  only,  many  still 
practising  pagan  rites,  and  invoking  Najikenem,  the  great  spirit  of  the  lake,  who 
lashes  the  waters  and  strews  them  with  wreckage. 

The  Bahr-el-Ghazal  depressions  are  scantily  peopled  by  some  nomad  Arabs, 
and  the  Sakerda  and  Ereda  pastors  of  Daza  speech.  Having  lost  nearly  all  their 
homed  cattle,  most  of  the  Ercdas  have  taken  to  husbandry,  retiring,  however, 
farther  east  in  order  to  place  themselves  under  the  Sultan  of  Wadai  against  the 
Aulad-Sliman  marauders.  -  -    -  •..  - ' 

Topography  op  Eankm. 

Jilao,  resiutiuce  of  the  pollilcttl  representative  of  'W'auai,  lies  on  the  verge  of  a 
great  plain  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  historical  kingdom  of  Eanem.  But  it  is 
of  recent  origin,  and  in  1871  formed  a  group  of  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  straw- 
thatched  cabins.  NJimi,  capital  of  the  state,  said  to  have  been  a  very  large  place 
before  the  Bulala  invasion,  lies  a  day's  march  to  the  north-west ;  and  about  the 
same  distance  to  the  west  stands  Oala,  formerly  peopled  by  the  Euburi,  noblest  of 
the  Eanem-bu  tribes.    At  a  somewhat  shorter  distance  south  of  Mao,  and  like  it 


,fgji,,fig)gggfg»mmmmm*smi 


858 


WEST  AFRICA. 


peopled  by  natives  of  Kanuri  speech,  lies  the  picturesque  village  of  Yaggiibei'i,  in 
the  most  productive  part  of  Kauein.  Some  12  miles  to  the  south-east  of  this  place 
stands  the  Arab  town  of  Month,  and  midway  between  it  and  the  lake  follow  Nguri 
and  Dibelontcld,  the  former  capital  of  the  Danoas,  the  latter  of  the  Ngijems.  It 
was  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Mao  that  Beurmann  was  murdered  in  1803.  Thinking 
him  proof  against  leud  and  steel,  the  assassins  garotted  him  with  a  running 
noose 


BORNIJ.  V 

According  to  the  natives,  the  true  name  of  Bornu  is  Barr  Noa,  or  "  Land  of 
Noah,"  given  to  it  by  the  Mussulman  missionaries  because  of  its  surprising  fertility. 
Then  the  legend,  seizing  on  this  word,  related  that  here  the  ark  settled  after  the 
subsidence  of  the  waters,  the  African  Ararat  being  sought  in  the  isolated  Uajai' 
Tens  rock,  on  the  south  side  of  Lake  Tsad. 

The  limits  of  the  kingdom  are  clearly  defined  only  towards  the  east  by  the 
lake  and  the  course  of  the  Shari.  In  the  north  there  can  be  no  natural  frontiers, 
the  transition  between  the  grassy  and  desert  zones  here  shifting  with  the  winds, 
the  rains,  and  the  incursions  of  marauding  tribes.  The  southern  confines  are  also 
very  uncertain,  thanks  to  the  almost  incessant  warfare  carried  on  between  the 
Mussulman  populations  and  the  pagan  highlunders.  Towards  the  west  the  border- 
line is  better  marked  between  the  civilised  Bornu  and  Haussa  states,  although  even 
here  frequently  modified  by  wars  and  local  revolutions.  The  total  area  may  be 
approximately  ret  dowi  et  56.000  square  miles,  with  a  population  roughly 
estimated  by  Bar th  and  Nachtigal  at  upwards  of  five  millions. 


mm 


,t-'  ;, 


Inhabitants. 

The  extremely  mixed  inhabitants  of  Bornu,  coUeotively  called  Berauna,  present 
a  surprising  diversity  of  colour,  stature,  and  other  physical  features.  The  terra 
Kanuri,  current  in  the  country  for  centuries,  designates  not  a  particular  race,  but 
simply  the  vcore  civilised  residents,  in  whom  have  been  gradually  merged  tha 
various  ethnical  elements  introduced  by  trade,  slavery,  war,  or  peaceful  imraigra. 
tion.  The  §ense  of  the  word  is  unknown,  although  by  a  complacent  popular 
etymology  referred  to  the  Arabic  niir,  "  light,"  whence  Ka'Nuri,  or  "  People  o{ 
Light,"  earned  by  their  mission  of  illuminators  amid  the  darkness  of  the  surround- 
ing heathen  world.  The  fanatical  Fulahs,  however,  read  it  otherwise,  substituting 
par,  "fire,"  for  nur,  and  designating  the  lukewarm  Mussulman  inhabitants  of 
Bornu  as  Ka-Nari,  or  "  People  of  Fire,"  that  is,  doomed  to  hell-fire. 

South-west  of  the  capital  dwells  the  noble  Magomi  nation,  who  claim  to  be 
sprung  of  the  same  stock  as  the  ancient  dynasty  which  ruled  for  nearly  a  thousand 
years  over  Kanem  and  Bornu.  They  seem  to  have  come  originally  from  Eanem, 
as  did  also  the  Sugusti  and  Tomaghera  people  of  the  marshy  coastlands,  and 
the  Koyams  west  of  Euka,  who  alone  have  preserved  the  camel  as  a  domestic 
animal.     The  So,  or  true  aborigines,  were  gradually  absorbed  by  these  immigrants 


BOENU. 


859 


aggubei'i,  in 
if  this  place 
)l\ow  Nguri 
^rijems.  It 
i.  Thinkiug 
a  runniii}; 


r  ••  Lund  of 
ing  fertility, 
(d  after  the 
ilated  Uajai- 

east  by  the 
al  frontiers, 
I  the  winds, 
nes  are  also 
between  tlie 
;  the  border- 
though  even 
irea  may  be 
ion   roughly 


luna,  present 
The  terra 
liar  race,  but 
merged  th;i 
!ul  immigra. 
sent  popular 
r  "  People  o{ 
he  surround- 
,  substituting 
ihabitants  of 

»  claim  to  be 
•ly  a  thousand 
from  Kanem, 
astlands,  and 
^8  a  domestic 
le  immigrants 


from  Eunem  and  by  the  Makari  intruders  from  the  south,  und  appear  to  be  now 
best  represented  by  the  Eeribina  tribe  on  the  left  bunk  of  the  ^hari. 

The  south-eastern  districts  are  held  by  the  Makari  (Eotoko)  nation,  who  helped 
the  Eanuris  to  crush  the  aborigines.  Of  darker  complexion  and  more  uncouth 
form,  the  Makari  seem  to  be  also  less  intelligent  than  the  other  Negroes  of  Bornu ; 
nevertheless,  they  are  distinguished  for  their  industrious  habits  as  peasants, 
artisans,  and  fishers,  and  the  products  of  their  industry  are  easily  recognised  by 
their  freer  style  in  the  bazaars  of  Sudan.  The  peaceful  Gamergus,  near  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  lake,  and  the  Mandarus  (Wandalas),  on  the  sloge  of  the 

Fig.  175.— Inhabitants  of  Bohnu. 
Bckle  1  : 6,000,000. 


14" 


+++++++++ 

4.  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  + 

^+  +  +  +  ■^  +++ 

♦  ♦.♦^♦♦  +  1-  + 

*■  +  ++++++  + 

t  +  i'  +  +  +  +  +  + 

+  +  +  +  -IM»+  + 

+++++++ 
+++++++ 
+++++4 
KV\\>  +  +  +  -*.4 


+  4- •♦■  +  •»•  +  +  + 
++++++++ 
+  +  +  +•»■++  + 

++++++++ 

+  -f+++i-+  + 
++++++++ 
+  +  +•  +  ••■  +++ 

•♦■  +  +  -t-  +  +  4  + 
•tt  +  -t-++-^  + 
+++++++ H 
+  +  +  +4-  +  4  + 
+4+4++++ 
+44++++4 


4  + +  4 +  +  +  ++++++/>'/>' 

+++44++++4+*  yyyi/ 

+++++44++4 

+++++  +  +*•++ 
++++++++++ 
+++++++++++ 

+  44  +  +  +  4  +  .:-4 
44++++++++ 
++++++++++ 
+  +  +  +  ++  +  +  ++•}, 
++++++++++ 
++++++++++ 
*++  +  +  +  +  ++♦■ 
+++++++++ 


Tooaiegi. 


Kanonri. 


am 

Mbkari. 
.  00  Miles. 


MarghL 


OUiera. 


hills  Still  farther  south,  differ  little  in  physical  appearance,  habits,  and  speeoh 
from  their  Mak^iri  neighbours,  and  like  them  have  eTnHrac«?d  Islam  and  accepted 
the  authority  of  the  Bornu  sultan.  But  in  the  more  inaccessible  parts  of  these 
uplands  dwells  the  chief  of  Sugur,  en  independent  prince  who  is  said  to  combine 
a  sort  of  priesthood  with  his  royal  functions,  sacrificing  cocks  and  sheep  to  the 
mountains.  The  Musgos  also,  akin  to  the  Mandaras  and  dwelling  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Shari,  have  remained  pagans,  whose  chief  fetish  is  a  spear  stuck  in  the 
ground.  The  Musgos,  who  recognise  the  sovereignty  of  Bornu,  and  who  call  them- 
selves "  Mussulman,"  that  is,  "civilised,"  are  a  finer  and  stronger  people  than  the 


m 


860 


WEST  AFBICA. 


Makari,  but  of  much  ruder  habits,  wearing  nothing  but  a  leather  apron  about  the 
I0UI8,  treating  their  horses  with  atrocious  cruelty,  and  slaying  their  prisoners  by 
chopping  off  one  leg  and  letting  them  bleed  to  death.  The  women  insert  bone  or 
metui  plates  in  both  lips,  which  in  conversation  add  a  strange  clapping  sound  to 
their  harsh  guttural  language. 

In  the  hilly  region  west  of  the  Musgos,  between  Bomu  and  Adamawa,  dwell 
other  pagans,  such  as  the  .Marghi,  worshippers  of  Tumbi,  whose  abode  is  the  finest 
and  most  wide-branching  tree  in  the  forest.  With  their  southern  neighbours,  the 
Sani,  they  form  a  distinct  race,  whose  dialects  bear  no  resemblance  to  those  of 
Bomu,  and  only  a  very  faint  affinity  to  those  of  the  Musgos  and  Babirs.  In  some 
respects  these  idioms  would  seem  to  form  the  transition  between  the  typical  Negro 
languages  of  Sudan  and  the  Bantu  family  of  South  Africa.  Tlio  Marghi  are  also 
a  much  finer  race  than  the  surrounding  peoples,  tall,  symmetrical,  with  almost 
European  features,  crisp,  but  not  woolly  hair,  nnd  reddish  or  bronzed  complexion. 
The  Marghi  have  no  villages,  properly  so-called,  their  dwellings  being  always 
isolated  and  surrounded  by  a  plot  of  ground  belonging  to  the  family.  But  this 
arrangement  exposes  them  all  the  more  to  the  attacks  of  the  slave-hunters,  and 
when  Burth  came  amongst  them  as  a  friend  and  not  to  raid,  like  all  other  strangers, 
they  thought  he  must  bo  some  god  who  hud  appeared  in  their  midst  to  make  them 
for  a  moment  forget  the  woes  and  terrors  of  life.  They  were  formerly  a  very 
powerful  nation,  capable  even  in  the  middle  of  the  present  century  of  raising  a 
force  of  thirty  thousand  warriors.  They  mourn  only  for  their  yo\mg  men,  rejoic- 
ing when  the  aged,  weary  of  life,  have  been  gathered  to  their  fathers.  Although 
reputed  barbarians,  the  Marghi  are  in  some  respects  more  civilised  than  their 
neighbours  ;  thus  they  have  long  practised  inoculation,  scarcely  known  elsewhere 
in  Bomu. 

In  the  extreme  north-west  dwell  the  Manga  people,  who  are  quite  distinct 
from  the  Kanuri,  and  related  perhaps  to  the  So  aborigines.  They  are  a  rude, 
half-savagti  race,  who  merge  westwards  with  the  Haussawa,  and  towards  the  south 
Avith  other  barbarous  tribes,  such  as  the  Bedde,  Ngizzem,  Kerri-Kerri,  Fika,  and 
Babir,  occupying  the  hilly  borderland  between  Haussa  and  Bomu. 

In  Bomu  the  Arabs  are  very  nmnerous,  those  known  by  the  name  of  Shoa,  or 
Shua,  numbering  at  least  a  hundred  thousand.  Although  settled  in  the  country 
for  seve"al  generations,  and  often  intermingled  with  the  indigenous  populations, 
they  still  speak  the  language  of  the  Koran  with  remarkable  ptirity.  The  largest 
tribe  are  the  Salamats,  settled  in  the  Makari  coimtry  west  of  the  Shari  river. 
Owing  to  the  moist  climate,  the  Arab  population  is  certainly  diminishing.  They 
are  no  longer  able  to  supply  the  numerous  cavalry  formerly  placed  at  the  service 
of  the  sultan,  while  the  annual  tribute  of  iiorses  and  butter  has  olso  considerably 
diminished. 

The  Kanuri  language,  while  intimately  related  on  the  one  hand  to  the  northern 
Teda,  Daza,  Baele,  shows  on  the  other  certain  surprising  analogies  with  the 
Sudanese  languages  proper,  such  as  the  Haussa,  So,  and  Baghirmi.  In  the  Tsad 
basin  it  has  become  the  dominant  speech,  everywhere  su^rseding  Arabic  and  all 


BOBNU. 


861 


n  about  tlie 
irisoners  by 
icrt  bone  or 
g  sound  to 

nawa,  dwell 
is  the  finest 
jhbours,  tbe 
to  those  of 
■8.     In  some 
pical  Negro 
gchi  are  also 
with  almost 
complexion, 
oing  always 
r.     But  this 
hunters,  and 
ler  strangers, 
0  make  them 
nerly  a  very 
of  raising  a 
men,  rojoic- 
i.     Although 
d  than  their 
vix.  elsewhere 

quite  distinct 
|r  are  a  rude, 
irds  the  south 
rri,  Fika,  and 

ne  of  Shoa,  or 
a  the  country 
8  populations, 
The  largest 
B  Shari  river, 
shing.  They 
at  the  service 
0  considerably 

0  the  northern 

gies  with  the 

In  the  Tsad 

Arabic  and  all 


other  rivals  as  the  chief  medium  of  intercourse.  Even  at  the  sultan's  court 
Arabic  has  ceased  to  be  the  official  language,  even  those  who  unrlerstand  it  affect- 
ing to  require  the  aid  of  an  interpreter  when  it  is  used  in  their  presence. 

The  Kanuri  peoi)le  are  distinguished  by  some  remarkable  quulities.  Kxtremely 
industrious  and  mostly  monogamous,  they  take  their  share  jointly  with  their  wives 
in  field  operations,  in  weaving,  dyeing,  and  all  other  handicrafts.  Thus  woman  is 
held  to  be  man's  equal,  in  some  respects  even  enjoying  certniu  prerogatives,  such 
as  the  right  of  being  first  saluted.  Temperance  is  a  national  virtue,  and  in  this 
respect  the  converts  are  much  more  rigid  observers  of  the  law  than  the  preachers. 
Instruction  is  widely  diffused  amongst  the  Kanuri  and  neighbouring  peoples ;  all 

Fig.  176.- Kt«A. 
8«Ue  1 :  78,00a 


^ 


Mirktt 
Plact 


sEaT!; 


."VV 


C«ntt«py 


# 


^im 


East  of  Gr^envvich     I5°*» 


"5S- 


IS' 


I5°47' 


J.  p^ 


3,900  Yarda. 


the  towns  have  schools  attended  by  boys,  and  Kuka  possesses  the  most  valuable 
library  in  the  whole  of  Sudan  east  of  Timbuktu.  The  people  of  Bornu  are 
generally  regarded  as  the  most  cultured  in  Central  Africa,  and  their  industrial 
products  are  the  most  highly  esteemed  in  all  the  bazaars.  They  are  skilled 
workers  in  metal,  and  can  even  cast  guns,  but  have  hitherto  done  nothing  to 
improve  the  communications.  Many  of  the  rivers  are  still  crossed  on  frail  rafts 
constructed  of  calabashes  and  reeds,  and  the  general  absence  of  highways,  and 
consequent  high  price  of  merchandise,  explains  the  existence  of  certain  industries 
whicli  Vtouxd  t>\jijii  liiaiippcui'  iVoi'ci  ^iOdttii  facilitlc'ci  ulTui'JL'd  for  the  do\ olopiueul  oi. 
foreign  trade. 

TOPOORAPHV.  '  V'    c 

Kaar  Eggomo,  or  Birni,  first  capital  of  Bornu,  stood  near  a  lake  in  the  Middle 

87— AF 


H02 


WEHT  AFUICA. 


Yeu  busin  on  tho  bordor  of  the  Manga  territory.  Although  the  enclosure  is  only 
G  nak'B  iu  circumference,  it  is  aiiid  ♦.«  hnvp  pontninerl  ut  one  time  us  many  us  two 
hundred  thoueund  inhnbitunts,  but  lM>th  Itinii  und  the  neighbouring  Oambeiti, 
residence  of  the  sultun,  were  destru'.  .1  in  IS09  or  1810  by  the  conquering  Fuluhs. 
The  court  wus  then  removed  to  Kofild,  culled  uIho  Jiirni-fl-Jfdid,  or  "  New  liimi," 
which  luy  much  Jieuier  Luke  Tsad,  but  whioh  in  a  few  yeurs  was  replaced  by 
Ntjornii,  neur  tlie  south-west  angle  of  the  lake.  Then  followed  a  change  of  dynasty, 
which  led  to  the  foundation  of  u  n»!W  capital,  called  Kuka,  from  a  baobab  growing 
on  the  spot.  Kuhiwa,  the  form  current  in  West  Sudun,  is  said  to  meuu  in  Kanuri 
*'  the  two  baobabs." 

Kuku,  one  of  the  great  cities  of  the  interior  of  the  continent,  is  sold  by  Xaeh- 
tigal  to  have  a  population  of  from  fifty  to  sixty  thousand,  without  counting  the 
pilgrims,  traders,  adventurers  from  all  parts  of  Sudan  and  of  the  Moslem  world 
from  Marocco  to  llesopotumiu.  It  consists  of  two  distinct  quarters,  fonning  two 
regiilar  parallelograms  surrounded  by  walls,  with  groups  of  cabins  dotted  round 
about.  From  the  npighbouring  plain,  stretching  away  towards  the  south-west 
shore  of  the  lake,  the  city  is  scarcely  visible,  the  trees  overshadowing  every  house 
giving  it  rather  the  appearance  of  a  thickly  wooded  tract.  The  western  and  more 
popiUouB  section,  forming  a  regular  quadrilateral  nearly  two  square  miles  in 
extent,  is  the  centre  of  all  the  life  and  trade  of  the  place,  the  eastern  section,  con- 
taining the  royal  palace  and  most  of  the  courtiers,  being  comparatively  deserted. 
During  the  rainy  season  the  streets  are  uuuverled  iuto  qougmiiCtj,  und  bt;i,gnaut 
ponds  are  even  formed,  in  one  of  which  "Tachtigal  saw  a  little  crocodile  living  on 
the  offal  thrown  to  him  by  the  neighbours. 

Once  a  week  a  great  fair  is  held  on  the  west  side,  attended  by  over  ten  thou- 
sand persons,  und  stocked  with  European  und  Eastern  wares  of  all  sorts.  Needles 
are  in  groat  demand,  and  Burth,  who  hud  a  large  supply,  became  known  us  the 
'•Prince  of  Needles."  Visitors  are  surprised  at  the  low  figures  for  which  costly 
goods  are  offered  for  sule,  which  is  due  to  the  fact  that  this  is  the  great  market  for 
secmd-hand  goods  imported  especially  from  Egypt  and  Asia  Minor.  But  of  all 
the  "commodities,"  the  mo.?t  important  ore  human  beings — slaves,  eunuchs,  court 
dwarfs.  In  1870,  Nachtigal  witnesset^  the  departure  of  a  caravan  of  fourteen 
hundred  slaves,  of  whom  one-third  were  destined  for  Egypt,  the  rest  for  Rhut  and 
Tripoli.  Hohlfs  speaks  of  another  conveying  four  thousand  captives,  which  left  in 
successive  detachments,  taking  a  fort,  ight  to  get  clear  of  Kuka.  Since  the  first 
half  of  the  present  century  the  legal  currency  hu^  been  Maria  Theresa  crown 
pieces,  the  Spanish  douro,  und  cowries,  four  thousand  of  the  last  mentioned  being 
equivttlent  to  the  crown  piece  at  the  time  of  Nachtigal's  visit. 

Some  30  miles  south-east  of  Kuka,  and  close  to  the  lake,  lies  Nqnrnv,  the  second 
largest  town  in  Bomu  proper.  Owing  to  the  periodical  inundations  and  consequent 
erosions,  Ngomu,  like  all  the  coast  villages,  is  constantly  moving  westwards.  To 
the  perils  of  the  floods  are  added  the  incessant  incursions  of  the  Yedina  pirates, 
who  lie  in  ambush  or  fall  suddenly  on  the  people  working  in  the  outskirts.  Kaica 
and  Baywa  are  also  exposed  to  these  surprises,  while  Ngigmi  and  the  other  coast 


»|ji>  iiijisi  -m 


BORNU. 


808 


DBure  is  only 
many  ua  two 
ig  Onmheni, 
ring  Fuluhs. 
New  liirni," 
replaced  l>y 
e  of  dynasty, 
ibab  growing 
un  in  Kanuri 

aid  by  Nach- 
counting  the 
[oslem  world 
forming  two 
dotted  round 
le  south-west 
f  every  house 
ern  and  more 
tare  miles  in 
I  section,  con- 
v^ely  deserted, 
and  bti^^naut 
dile  living  on 

)ver  ten  thou- 
►rts.  Needles 
known  as  the 
which  costly 
3at  market  for 
r.  But  of  all 
eunuchs,  court 
n  of  fourteen 
t  for  Rhat  and 
,  which  left  in 
Since  the  first 
rhsresa  crown 
entioned  being 

rnu,  the  second 
md  consequent 
v^estwards.  To 
ifedina  pirates, 
tskirts.  Kawa 
;he  other  coast 


towns  further  north  are  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  the  equally  formidable  Tuareg 
and  Aulnd-Hlimdn  nomnds. 

In  western  Bornu,  watered  by  the  Yen,  Clopperton,  Barth,  and  Rohlfs  mention 
several  towns  with  over  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  Near  the  ancient  Bimi  is  the 
village  of  Ngtirutm,  where  Richardson  died  of  exhaustion  in  18;)  1.  Farther  west 
follow  Stin'Ho/o,  Bnt'Kan,  Khndpjn,  Jinndi,  Mmhcna,  Oummel,  and  Birmenawa,  the 
last  two  on  the  frontier  and  peopled  by  Haussawu,  although  belonging  to  Boma 
The  north-west  angle  of  the  kingdom  is  occupied  by  the  vassal  state  of  Sindei' 

Fig.  '77.— The  Itfoiu  MotraT&iNii. 
1 1 :  740,000. 


••   •■\  *  • 


DOLOO 


East  of  Greenwich 


15*  SO- 


1 5' 40' 


VilUgca. 


ISUOm. 


(Zinder),  visited  and  sometimes  plundered  by  the  Tuareg  nomads.  Here  is  also  a 
little  settlement  of  Jewish  "  converts  "  from  the  Mediterranean  seaboard.  The 
capital,  built  at  the  east  foot  of  a  bluff,  has  been  called  the  "  Gate  of  Sudua," 
owing  to  the  Tuareg  traders  in  salt,  who  have  formed  their  camping  ground  in  the 
vicinity. 

The  Munio  hills,  which  project  like  a  promontory  into  the  steppe  borderir-  on 
the  desert,  have  also  some  important  places,  such  as  Our^,  Vmhek,  and  farther 
south  Bun^  and  Suleri,  near  which  ia  a  natron  lake,  and  another  wit    two  basins, 


864 


WEST  AFBICA. 


ono  of  frt'sh  tbo  other  of  intensely  salt  water.  All  the  towns  of  the  Munio  district 
are  built  on  the  mo<lel  of  those  of  Mauritania. 

On  the  trade  route  leading  from  Kuku  south-west  to  the  lower  lienuo  one  of  the 
chief  stations  is  Mittjommeri,  residence  of  ono  of  the  great  dignitaries  of  the  empire. 
Hero  llohlfs  saw  an  ostrich  farm,  probably  the  only  ono  in  Sudan.  Farther  on 
tlie  mud  traverses  Mogoilom  in  a  cotton  growing  district,  and  Gnjlxi,  partly  inhabited 
by  pngiiiis. 

The  southern  extremity  of  the  lake,  hero  skirted  by  the  historical  highway 
between  Wadai  and  West  Hornu,  also  contains  numerous  towns,  such  as  Yeili, 
regarded  as  the  cradle  of  the  Yedina  islanders  ;  Marti,  on  the  ethnological 
frontier  of  the  Kunuri,  Makari,  and  Arabs ;  Misain^  and  Ngala  on  the  routt  to 
Wadai,  uiid  in  the  Shari  delta,  Afade  and  Gufei.  Elf  [Alfn),  said  to  be  the  oldest 
place  in  the  country,  is  carefully  avoided  by  wayfarers,  owing  to  the  magic  jKiwer 
attributed  to  its  inhabitants. 

Lorjon-Karnak,  capital  of  the  Logon  territory,  is  the  chief  station  for  the 
traffic  between  liornu  and  Bajhirmi,  to  both  of  which  conterminous  states  its 
Mohammedan  sultan  is  tributary.  The  vassal  states  in  the  basin  of  the  Mbulu 
have  also  some  large  places,  such  as  the  stronghold  of  Dikoa,  which  was  often  the 
residence  of  the  Hornu  kings  ;  the  neighbouring  Ala,  formerly  capital  of  a  state ; 
Mai-dug-en,  inhabited  by  many  thousands  of  the  Gomergu  nation  ;  Mahani  and 
K('H<i1;u'a,  li>r;^p  'nnrVcts  in  the  Uje  territory  where  the  Mohammedans  of  the 
north  and  the  southern  pagans  exchange  their  commodities.  Farther  on  at  the 
foot  of  the  ^lora  mountains  stands  the  city  of  Doloo,  divided  into  two  quarters  by  a 
winding  stream.  This  extensive  place,  which  is  encircled  by  modern  ramparts,  is 
the  capital  of  the  Mundara  state,  now  tributary  to  Bomu.  Hfere  Vogel  was  held 
captive  for  a  month,  and  was  frequently  in  imminent  danger  of  his  life.  South- 
west of  Doloo  are  seen  the  ruins  of  the  former  capital,  Mora,  standing  on  the 
escarpment  of  a  rock  over  650  feet  high. 


Adminkstratign. 

The  Mai,  or  Sultan  of  Bomu,  usually  designated  by  the  title  of  Sheikh,  is  an 
absolute  despot,  "the  Lion,  Conqueror,  Wisdom,"  who  nevertheless  condescends 
to  be  assisted  by  a  council  including,  besides  the  members  of  his  family,  the 
Kokenawa,  or  military  chiefs,  and  the  official  representatives  of  the  various  races 
inhabiting  the  State.  Most  of  the  high  offices  are  held  by  slaves,  and  even  imder 
the  previous  dynasty  the  commander-in-chief,  ranking  above  the  prince  royal, 
was  always  u  slave. 

The  permanent  army,  which  is  of  considerable  strength,  is  partly  distributed 
along  the  frontiers,  partly  attached  to  the  person  of  the  sovereign  for  purposes  of 
parade  and  prestige.  The  sultan  possesses  some  artillery,  and  the  Hite  of  the 
troops  are  armed  with  rifles,  some  companies  even  wearing  European  uniforms, 
although  of  the  most  varied  and  fastastic  fashions.  The  cavalry  still  wear  armour, 
as  in  the  Middle  Ages,  sometimes  coats  of  mail,  sometimes  thickly  wadded  cover- 


ue  ono  of  the 

•f  the  empire. 

Furthor  on 

tly  inhabited 

ical  highway 
uK'h  as  YeJi, 
ethnological 
the  routt  to 
be  the  oldest 
magic  power 

ition  for  the 
OU8  states  its 
of  the  Mbulu 
was  often  the 
tal  of  a  state  ; 
;  Malftini  and 
ledans  of  the 
ther  on  at  the 
I  quarters  by  a 
■n  ramparts,  is 
'^osrel  was  held 
8  life.  South - 
.ndiug  on  the 


f  Sheikh,  is  an 
88  condescends 
lis  family,  the 
e  various  races 
md  even  under 
a  prince  royal, 

I'tly  distributed 
for  purposes  of 
;Le  ^Ute  of  the 
)pean  uniforms, 
11  wear  armour, 
'  wadded  cover- 


m  s 


■'■■■  ^'-x:-  ■ 


^■"v: 


x^r 


msm^ 


.■.i,;:^^.-,«i^^£ufc--:fe.t.-i«-^-  .-.-'i«at".^-i^\*>;^fe.^ 


BAGHIRMI. 


865 


ings  reaching  down  to  the  feet.  Of  these  armoured  corps  there  are  altogether 
about  a  thousand,  more  formidable  in  appearance  than  really  dangerous.  The 
men  get  no  pay,  but  when  invalided  receive  allotments  of  arable  land,  the  great 
military  and  civil  dignitaries  being  remunerated  with  fiefs. 

The  provinces  directly  administered  are  intermingled,  great  and  small,  with 
the  feudatory  states  attached  under  diverse  conditions  to  the  central  authority. 
In  most  of  these  secondary  kingdoms  the  rulers  continue  to  dispose  of  the  lives  of 
their  subjects,  and  organise  razzias  on  their  own  account  among  the  surrounding 
pagan  populations.  The  homage  paid  to  the  Mandara  sultnn  even  exceeds  that 
claimed  by  the  Bomu  monarch  himself.  No  ceremonial  is  more  strictly  enforced 
and  more  slavishly  performed  than  that  of  the  court  of  Doloo. 

Baghirmi. 

Baghirmi,  properly  so  called,  consists  of  the  open  and  somewhat  marshy  plain 
comprised  between  the  Lower  Shari,  Lake  Tsad,  the  Sokoro  hills,  and  the  cliffs 
skirting  the  west  side  of  Lake  Fitri,  an  area  altogether  of  scarcely  20,000  square 
miles.  But  to  Baghirmi  also  belong  politically  the  conterminous  regions  inhabited 
by  tributary  pagan  populations,  or  to  which  slave-hunting  expeditions  are  regularly 
sent,  raising  the  total  area  to  more  than  60,000  square  miles.  According  to  the 
Arab  writers,  the  natives  were  called  Baghirmi  (Bakirmi,  Bakarmi),  from  the  two 
words  bnggnr  miya,  or  "a  hundred  cows,"  because  the  first  sovereigns  of  the 
country  had  imposed  a  tribute  of  a  hundred  head  of  cattle  on  each  tribe  subject  to 
them.  But  in  the  native  language  these  called  themselves  Barmagh^,  of  which 
Baghirmi  may  be  a  corrupt  form. 

The  population,  estimated  by  Barth  about  the  middle  of  the  century  at  one 
million  five  hundred  thousand,  appears  to  have  been  since  reduced  by  at  least  one- 
third  by  sanguinary  wars  with  Wadai,  famines,  and  marauding  expeditions.  Like 
the  Kanuri  of  Bomu,  the  civilised  inhabitants  of  Baghirmi  proper  are  a  mixed 
people  descended  from  the  So,  the  Makari.  and  other  aborigines,  intermingled  with 
Arabs  and  Fulahs,  and  further  modified  by  the  introduction  of  Mohammedan 
culture.  According  to  the  local  records  and  traditions,  the  founders  of  the  state 
came  from  Arabia  at  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  or  beginning  of  the  sixteenth  centuries, 
when  a  general  movement  of  migration  and  conquest  was  in  progress,  as  at 
present,  from  east  to  west. 


Inhabitants. 

The  Baghirmi  are  physically  a  much  finer  people  than  the  Kanuri,  the  women 
especially  being  distinguished  by  really  pleasant  features  and  an  agreeable 
expression.  The  men  are  well  built,  with  robust  wiry  frames,  seldom  of  very  dark 
complexion  and  mostly  with  a  reddish,  almost  metallic  tinge.  They  are  generally 
intelligent  and  skilful  craftsmen,  noted  especially  for  their  excellency  in  weaving, 
dyeing,  leatherwork,  and  embroidery      On  his  return  from  the  victorious  expedi- 


336 


WEST  AFRICA. 


IhSbi 


mu 


m 


tion  to  Baj»hirmi  in  1871,  the  Sultan  of  Wadai  is  said  to  have  carried  off  as  many 
as  thirty  thousand  builders,  weavers,  tailors,  and  dyers,  at  the  same  time  forbidding 
the  natives  to  wear  fine  robes.  Thus  the  local  industries  were  greatly  impaired, 
and  it  would  be  no  longer  possible  to  build  a  brick  palace  such  as  that  occupied  by 
the  Sultan  of  Mussena.  On  the  other  hand,  so  accustomed  are  the  people  to  the 
use  of  arms  that  honest  labour  is  despised  by  the  upper  classes,  while  brutal  cruelty 
is  held  in  honour.  The  last  sovereign  was  proud  of  the  surname  Abu-Sekkin 
("Father  of  the  knife"),  earned  by  the  wholesale  butchery  of  guests  to  whom  he 
had  sworn  faith  and  friendship.  Although  despising  their  Eanuri  and  Wadai 
neighbours,  as  inferior  in  martial  valour,  the  Baghirmi  have  never  succeeded  like 
them  in  establishing  a  really  powerful  state,  their  political  status  having  mostly 
been  one  of  more  or  less  disguised  vassalage.  A  t  present  they  are  tributary  to  the 
Sultan  of  Wadai,  from  whom  their  sovereign  receives  his  investiture. 

Amongst  the  polished  Baghirmi  dwell  representatives  of  all  the  surrounding 
races,  Kanuri  everywhere,  Makari  in  the  west,  Eukas  and  Bulalas  in  the  north, 
Arab  agriculturists  (Assela,  Salamat,  Aula-Muaa,  Shoa  and  others)  also  chiefly  in 
the  north,  Fulahs  mainly  in  the  south.  The  Fulahs  visited  by  Nachtigal  called 
him  "cousin,"  saying  that  their  ancestors  had  come  like  him  from  the  shores  of 
the  Mediterranean. 

The  partly  or  even  completely  independent  peoples  in  the  southern  and  eastern 
districts  are  mostly  related  to  the  Baghirmi  in  speech,  while  resembling  them  in 
physical  appearance.  They  are  split  up  i^.to  an  infinity  of  ethnical  fragments,  each 
district  having  its  special  group,  which  again  becomes  broken  into  fresh  subdivisions 
by  every  famine,  inundation,  or  slave-hunting  incursion.  Most  of  the  tribes  are 
distinguished  by  some  special  tattoo  or  other  physical  mark:  the  Gaberi  of  the 
southern  riverain  plains  by  the  extraction  of  an  upper  and  lower  incisor;  the 
Saras  farther  to  the  south  by  filing  their  teeth  to  a  point,  like  so  many  of  the 
Nilotic  peoples;  the  Kufus,  a  branch  of  the  Saras,  by  piercing  the  lips  for  the 
insertion  of  little  rods  round  the  mouth. 

Tree-worship  survives  amongst  the  Somrai,  neighbours  of  the  Gaberi,  who 
swear  by  the  bark  of  a  species  of  acacia.  All  however  believe  in  a  supreme  being 
whose  voice  is  the  thunder,  and  who  is  enthroned  in  the  clouds.  To  this  god  they 
offer  bloody  sacrifices  of  cocks  and  goats  in  shrines  from  which  women  and  children 
are  excluded.  The  "  wise  men  "  interpret  to  the  vulgar  the  decrees  of  the  deity, 
reading  his  will  in  the  blood  of  the  victims,  in  their  last  spasms,  or  the  position  of 
the  dead  bodies.  Thev  also  denounce  the  wicked  wizards,  their  rivals  in  know- 
ledge  of  the  occult  science.  When  a  young  man  dies  two  wise  men  take  his  body, 
which  then  drags  them,  as  they  say,  irresistibly  to  the  hut  of  the  murderer. 
Then  blood  is  shed  for  blood,  and  the  property  of  the  "  culprit "  is  shared  between 
the  chief  and  the  injured  family.  Amongst  the  Saras  a  tuft  of  grass  or  foliage 
placed  upon  the  magician's  head  throws  him  into  a  divine  frenzy,  during  \rhich 
he  reels,  bounds,  capers  about,  staggers  as  one  overcome  with  drink,  falling  at  last 
before  one  of  the  audience,  who  is  forthwith  devoted  to  death.  Amongst  the 
Niyillems,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Shari,  young  maidens  are  said  to  be  buried 


M 


}ff  as  many 
forbidding 
Y  impaired, 
jccupied  by 
lople  to  the 
iital  cruelty 
k.bu-Sekkin 
to  whom  he 
and  Wadai 
:ceeded  like 
iring  mostly 
itarv  to  the 

surrounding 
I  the  north, 
lo  chiefly  in 
tigal  called 
le  shores  of 

and  eastern 
ing  them  in 
^ments,  each 
subdivisions 
e  tribes  are 
iberi  of  the 
incisor ;  the 
nany  of  the 
lips  for  the 

Gaberi,  who 
preme  being 
his  god  they 
and  children 
of  the  deity, 
lO  position  of 
als  in  know- 
ike  his  body, 
le  murderer. 
Eired  between 
iss  or  foliage 
luring  yhich 
ialling  at  last 
4.mongst  the 
to  be  buried 


I 

M 
O 


'■i:;-mmm^fmmmiM^mmmmssm.  - 


_'  v         k 


ti'SeHiptttaa-.'; 


BAGHIliMI. 


867 


alive  in  the  grave  of  the  chief,  and  the  epileptic  are  slain  ns  being  possessed  by 
the  evil  one. 

I'olyganiy  is  general  among  the  wealthy  classes  in  Upper  Baghirmi,  where 
some  remains  of  matriarchal  insti(utions  are  also  said  to  survive.  Thus  one  of 
the  petty  states  below  the  Ba-Busso  and  Bahr-el-Abiad  confluence  is  known  by 
the  name  of  Belcd-el-Mr&,  or  "Women's  Land,"  because  the  government  is  hero 
always  entrusted  to  a  queen. 

Although  nominal  Mohammedans,  the  Baghirmi  make  no  effort  to  spread  Islam 
amongst  their  pagan  subjects.  They  even  look  askance  at  the  proselytising 
fervour  of  the  Fulahs,  the  reason  being  that,  once  converted  to  Islam,  the  peoples 
amongst  whom  their  gangs  of  slaves  are  recruited  could  no  longer  be  regarded  us 
vile  heathens  whom  it  is  lawfid  to  plunder  and  enslave.  The  supplies  of  young 
men  and  women  for  the  Sudanese  markets  are  obtained  especially  from  the  Sara 
tribes,  who  are  usually  designated  by  the  name  of  "  Vile  Slaves."  To  avoid  the 
razzias  of  the  Baghirmi  slave-hunters  many  tribes  voluntarily  pay  the  annual 
blood  tax,  uniformly  fixed  at  "  a  hundred  head,"  and  in  order  to  procure  these 
victims  such  tribes  organise  marauding  expeditions  on  their  own  account.  When 
supplied  with  rifles  against  men  armed  only  with  spear,  arrow,  or  axe,  the  hunt  is 
always  successful,  and  Nachtigal  was  obliged  to  assist  at  the  capture  of  several 
Guberi  families  who  had  taken  refuge  in  two  large  trees.  Nevertheless  there  are 
tribes,  ]irotected  by  their  position,  who  have  hitherto  defied  all  the  attacks  of  the 
Baghirmi  "  bloodhounds."  Such  are  the  Sokoros,  whose  numerous  little  republican 
communities  are  grouped  amid  natural  strongholds  of  steep  crags,  which  the  wariiois 
of  the  plains  do  not  venture  to  assail. 


,;;    •    •  ApMINISTRATION    AND   ToPOGRAPHY. 

Like  nearly  all  the  central  African  governments,  that  of  Baghirmi  knows  no 
law  except  the  ruler's  whim,  no  limit  except  the  power  of  rival  neighbours.  But 
to  guard  against  dangerous  enemies  in  his  own  household,  tlic  sultan,  on  ascending 
the  throne,  causes  each  of  bis  brothers  to  be  blinded  of  one  eye,  custom  requiring 
the  reigning  sovereign  to  be  free  from  any  physical  detect.  His  despotic  powers 
are  enforced  by  his  nimaerous  eunuchs  and  other  functionaries.  Mho  impose  the 
taxes  and  plunder  the  people  at  pleasure.  The  subject  must  approach  his  master 
in  very  humble  attitude.  On  entering  the  sultan's  palace  all  bare  their  breasts, 
fall  on  their  knees,  and  bend  forward  with  clasped  hands.  This  rule  of  etiquette 
is  dispensed  with  only  in  favour  of  the  musicians,  who  are  of  royal  blood,  and 
of  some  Sokoro  chiefs,  whose  warlike  deeds  have  placed  them  above  the  common 
law.  ■'^■.      "/ 

Mmsfina  (Mnssenia),  city  of  the  "Tamarind-*rce,"  capital  of  Baghiiiui,  was 
founded  over  three  centuries  ago  in  the  vast  plain  of  the  Lower  Shari,  about  12 
miles  liorth  of  Batchikam.  Within  the  walls  is  comprised  a  considerable  extent 
of  cultivated  land,  market-places,  and  even  a  temporary  lake,  presenting  somewhat 
the  same  aspect  as  that  of  Kano,  and  rendering  the  city  very  inealubrious.    Massefia, 


imm 


R08 


WEST  AFEICA. 


which  was  captured  by  the  Sultan  of  Wadai  in  1871,  is  the  largest  town  in  the 
kingdom,  and  before  the  siege  had  a  population  of  at  least  twenty  thousand. 
According  to  Nachtigal,  lingoma)},  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Shari,  is  only  one-fourth 
as  large,  but  occupies  one  of  the  most  convenient  jraints  for  caravans  to  cross  the 
river.  Together  with  its  neighbour,  Kokorotchi,  it  supplies  nearly  all  the  com 
required  by  the  markets  of  the  capital. 

Kamja,  perched  on  a  northern  bluff  in  the  Gher^  hills  to  the  east  of  the  kingdom, 


J*' ill 


Figf.  178. — M.188ENA  AND  East  Baohibxi. 
ScAle  1  :  M&.000. 


/Yesainiki  J     \  jS  Jl  O  U  » 


i[iim 


30' 


I5°i0' 


\5°'W 


East  of  Greenwich 


12  Miles. 


is  held  by  an  independent  Sokoro  tribe ;  yet  it  is  regarded  by  the  Baghirmi 
nation  as  a  sort  of  metropolis,  being  the  traditional  home  of  the  royal  dynasty. 
Southwards  stretch  the  still-unexplored  regions  watered  by  the  Shari  headstreams, 
and  ascending  either  towards  the  sources  of  the  Welle  or  towards  a  divide 
between  the  Tsad  and  Congo  basins.  Here  lies  the  Central  African  region,  where 
the  most  important  geographical  discoveries  have  still  to  be  made  in  the  Dark 
Continent. 


.'   '        * 


lit  I 


wn  in  the 
thousand, 
one-fourth 
o  cross  the 
.1  the  corn 

e  kingdom, 


"1 

40' 


11* 

30' 


le  Bughirmi 
,ral  dynasty, 
lieadstreams, 
•ds  a  divide 
egion,  where 
in  the  Dark 


""«  ■ .     ,'-* 


■t 


-ijfi;^m;m!mmm&^mi^^smmmm:m^iin:imm3iMp: 


mt 


'S" 


'If 


€ 
•?!■: 


CAMEROONS     MOUNTAINS 


AND 


\J>¥> 


OtolSff 


fe  to  sx. 


NEW  YOBK.  C 


^te   /«0. 


PPLETOf 


fc^WMyiiiWjr""""'"^'     '^^  "*  I  '.'iiF- 


■•i94iMfi«iMHiM9HiMwifi«jaM"  I  'I  "  -!■*'**•* 


MOUNTAINS 


AND     BIGHT    OF    BIAFRA . 


Sg-aS-gft%e:;gtg»ii»Si!afek!j!;^^^  :  '  ^'l''" 


ffl" 

sS\m 


a 


if 


4*: 


ill 

! 


■ill  I 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE     CAMEROONS. 

General  StRVKV. 

TIE  Portuguese  term  Camaruos,  or  "  Prawns,"  was  oi  iginally  applied 
by  navigators  to  the  chief  estuary  at  the  extreme  head  of  the  Gulf  of 
Guinea,  but  it  has  been  gradually  extended  under  the  English  form 
of  Cumeroons  and  German  Karaerun  not  only  to  the  basin  of  the 
Piio  de  Camaraos  and  surrounding  plains,  but  also  to  the  superb 
volcanic  mass  which  continues  on  the  mainland  the  chain  of  the  Annobon  and 
Fernando-Po  islands,  and.  recently  to  all  the  territory  by  the  Germans  laid  down 
on  the  map  as  constituting  their  future  possessions  in  this  part  of  Equatorial 
Africa.  The  Portuguese  had  applied  to  the  great  mountain  the  name  of  Terra 
dos  Ambozes,  that  is,  the  laud  of  the  Zambus,  or  of  Amboise  spoken  of  by  the  old 
French  geographers.  One  of  the  islands  in  the  gulf  is  still  called  the  Isle  of 
Ambas. 

How  the  Germans,  after  long  political  discussions,  have  become  masters  of  this 
extensive  region  is  already  matter  of  history.  English  missionaries  had  for  some 
years  maintained  a  station  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  ;  English  had  become  the 
common  language  of  the  coast  people,  and  the  British  flag  had  even  been  hoisted 
in  many  villages  of  the  interior.  On  the  other  hand,  German  traders  had  factories 
on  tbe  coast  and  had  purchased  land  on  the  slope  of  the  hill.  Conflicts  had  taken 
place  between  the  agents  of  the  two  nations,  giving  rise  to  irritating  correspond- 
ence between  the  respective  Governments,  At  last  Great  Britain  agreed  in  1885 
to  waive  all  claims  to  tbe  Cameroons  Mountains,  and  recalled  her  consuls  and  other 
agents. 

South  of  the  estuary  the  situation  was  different ;  this  seaboard,  held  by  a 
multitude  of  petty  chiefs,  having  been  visited  by  numerous  traders,  all  of  whom 
had  concluded  conventions  with  these  kinglets  and  purchased  territory  for  a  few 
rifles  and.  casks  of  fiery  spirits.  Old  documents  showed  that  such  and  such  points 
and  river  mouths  belonged  to  France  or  to  Spain,  and  when  the  European 
Governments  were  seized  with  the  recent  mania  for  annexations,  this  coast  was 
claimed  partly  by  Germany,  partly  by  France.  But  in  1885  the  German  factories 
in  ^uth  Senegambia  were  by  special  treaty  ceded  to  France  in  exchange  for  all 


*::'|.3&«*^-i"-  -S»^!!S!RE^'-: 


THE  CAMEROONS. 


871 


i 


Rey,  and  in  tho  south  by  tho  Etembu<^,  or  Kio  dol  (^iinpo,  from  the  Krcncli  colonial 
domain,  the  total  distaneo  along  tho  coaM  being  about  .'{()()  milos.  TowardN  tho 
interior  a  straight  line,  drawn  from  tho  north-west  frontier  of  tho  Cumproons  to 
the  Bonue  above  Yola,  marks  tho  conventional  limits  between  the  Uritish  and 
(jierman  imaginary  possessiouH;  but  only  a  very  small  portion  of  the  region  claimed 
by  the  latter  power  has  been  explored,  and  a  still  smaller  portion  brought  under 
its  direct  influence.  This  territory  is  estimated  by  Al.  Langhans  at  about  11,000 
square  miles,  with  a  population  of  four  hundred  and  eighty  thousand. 

The  Cameroons  Mountain,  facing  Fernando-Po,  and  towering  over  .3,000  feet 
above  the  insular  peak,  is  one  of  the  most  imposing  summits  on  tile  surface  of  tho 
globe.  It  is  certainly  exceeded  in  height  by  Kenia,  Kilimanjaro,  the  Abyssinian 
8imeu,  and  possibly  even  by  some  of  the  Atlas  crests,  but,  owing  to  its  position  on 
the  seacoa8t,.it  presents  a  much  bolder  appearance  than  all  these  mountains.  From 
the  creeks  winding  round  the  wooded  headlands  at  its  foot  an  uninterrupted  view 
is  commanded  of  the  whole  mass  nearly  14,000  feet  h''»h,  including  evbn  the 
terminal  points  known  as  the  "  Three  tJisters."  On  the  sh  les  f.Uows  a  suec  ssion 
of  climatic  zones,  revealed  below  by  a  forest  vegetation,  hi.^her  u^.  by  a  lerbaceous 
flora,  and  towards  the  top  by  ashes  and  bare  lavas,  at  times  str-  iked  with  snow. 
So  formidable  does  the  giant  appear  to  the  natives  that  they  have  nanr  -d  it  Mon'ra- 
ma-Iioba,  that  is,  tho  "  Mountain  of  the  gods."  It  was  first  ascended  by  Me.  -nk 
in  1847,  but  a  party  of  Alpine  climbers,  including  Burton,  Calvo,  and  the  r  •  anist 
Mann,  were  the  first  to  reach  the  summit  in  1861.  Since  then  sc-r^ra'  explorers 
have  also  mounted  to  the  terminal  crater. 

Although  not  yet  entirely  surveyed,  there  can  be  no  doubt  as  to  the  volcanic 
nature  of  the  mountain,  which  everywhere  presents  heaps  of  ashes,  lava  streams, 
even  some  recent  scoria),  and  dozens  of  lateral  cones,  one  of  which,  the  Little 
Cameroon,  towards  the  south-west,  seems,  from  certain  points  of  view,  almost  a 
rival  of  the  supreme  crest.  At  the  time  of  Burton's  ascension  srackt  was  emitted 
from  the  great  crater,  and  the  natives  have  often  spoken  of  vapours  rising  from 
the  highest  peaks.  The  whole  mass  is,  in  fact,  a  vast  volcano  resting  on  a  base 
800  square  miles  in  extent,  and  completely  isolated  on  all  sides. 

The  forest  vegetation  clothing  the  lower  slopes  preserves  its  tropical  character 
to  a  height  of  over  6,000  feet.  The  cultivated  sp  ""ies.  such  as  the  cocoa-nut, 
banana,  and  oil-palm,  disappear  successively,  not  one  :  .•  .g-  found  above  3,500  feet, 
the  limit  of  the  zone  inhabited  by  the  natives.  But  the  eriodendron,  bombax,  and 
other  large  trees,  generally  festooned  with  creepers,  ascend  much  higher,  the 
upper  verge  of  the  timber  zone  assuming  a  Erropean  aspect,  and  at  last  abruptly 
yielding  to  the  grasses  carpeting  the  mor«i  tlevated  crests.  Towards  the  summit 
all  is  bare  as  if  swept  by  the  wind,  except  where  a  few  trailing  plants  find  shelter 
in  the  hollows.  The  Alpine  flora  is  very  poorly  represented,  doubtless  owing  to 
the  relatively  recent  formation  of  the  volcano,  which  has  been  developed  1  ■ 
innumerable  layers  of  superimposed  lavas  and  scoriae. 

Notwithstanding  the  heavy  rainfall  springs  are  rare,  none  being  met  higher 
than  9,100  feet,  a  phenomenon  due,  as  in  Etna,  to  the  extremely  porous  character 


WEST  AFEICA. 


of  the  soil.  Hence  healtli-regorts  for  Europeans  can  be  founded  only  at  the  few- 
points  where  spring-water  occurs.  In  any  case  the  fierce  gales  prevailing  on  the 
upper  slopes  would  render  a  prolonged  residence  almost  impossible. 

From  the  heights  dominated  by  the  Albert  Peak,  the  eye  sweeps  over  a  vast 
horizon,  commanding  a  superb  view  of  the  surrounding  lowlands  and  island- 
studded  waters,  and  towards  the  north  of  other  cone-shaped  masses.  In  1885 
Schwarz  and  Knuston,  who  penetrated  over  70  miles  in  this  direction,  found  the 

Fig.  180.— Chiep  Routes  of  Exfloberb  in  the  Caxeboonb. 
Scale  1  :  1,800,000. 


northern  horizon  bounded  by  a  range  of  peaks  presenting  every  variety  of  outline, 
forest-clad  at  their  base,  and  apparently  from  8,000  to  10,000  feet  high.  Being 
disposed  in  a  line  with  Fernando-Po  and  the  Canieroons,  these  Ba-Farami 
mountains,  as  they  have  been  named  from  the  tribe  inhabiting  their  slopes,  are 
also  perhaps  of  igneous  character,  more  especially  as  the  intervening  plains  are 
studded  in  many  places  with  blocks  of  lava.  North-west  of  the  Cameroons  rises 
another  mountain  mass  some   3,000    feet   high,  known  as  the   Humbi,  which 


THE  CAMEBOONS. 


878 


ly  at  the  few 
ailing  on  the 

>s  over  a  vast 
1  and  island- 
es.  In  1885 
in,  found  the 


4* 


■eenwlch 


Boutes. 


HIety  of  outline, 
it  high.  Being 
ese  Ba-Farami 
their  slopes,  are 
ning  plains  are 
Dameroons  rises 
Humbi,  which 


dominates  the  low-lying  lands  carved  into  peninsulas  by  the  lateral  estuaries  of 
the  Rio  del  Rey. 

Rivers. 

The  Camcroons  are  almost  completely  encircled  by  marine  or  fluvial  waters. 
On  the  west  the  broad  Rio  del  Rey  estuary  is  joined  by  the  Mem^,  whose  numerous 
affluents  rise  on  the  Ba-Kundu  plain,  intermingling  their  sourcejs  with  those  of 
the  headstrearas  of  the  Mungo,  which  flows  to  the  east  of  the  Cameroons.  Near 
the  water-parting  lies  the  little  lacustrine  basin,  6  miles  in  circumference,  to  which 
Mr.  Comber  has  given  the  name  of  Lake  Rickards.  It  seems  to  be  a  flooded 
crater  with  no  emissary  in  the  dry  season,  and  in  the  wet  season  probably  sending 
its  overflow  to  the  Mungo. 

Some  36  miles  to  the  north-east  lies  the  larger  Balombi-ma-Mbu,  or  "Elephant 
Lake,"  also  apparently  an  old  crater  draining  to  the  Mungo,  which  here  falls 
through  a  series  of  rapids  a  total  height  of  from  70  to  80  feet.  Some  12  miles  below 
these  rapids  the  Mungo  begins  to  be  navigable  for  barges,  and  throughout  its 
lower  course,  of  about  70  miles,  is  obstructed  only  by  one  other  rapid  at  all 
dangerous.  But  before  reaching  the  sea  it  overflows  into  a  broad  muddy  plain, 
throwins:  off  towards  the  south-west  the  river  Bimbia,  which  enters  the  Gulf  of 
Guinea  by  a  wide  and  deep  mouth  accessible  to  the  largest  vessels.  The  main 
stream,  which  retains  the  name  of  Mungo,  trends  eastwards,  not  to  the  sea,  but  to 
the  estuary  of  the  Cameroons  River  above  the  bar. 

The  Cameroons  River  was  ascended  in  1886  by  Johnston  for  about  60  miles 
from  its  mouth  to  a  point  where  it  flows  south-eastwards  between  gneiss  walls, 
rushing  over  a  cataract  from  the  terraces  which  here  seem  to  form  the  escarp- 
ments of  the  inland  plateaux.  Farther  down  the  Wuri,  as  the  natives  call  it, 
ramifies  into  two  branches  enclosing  a  large  island,  below  which  it  is  joined  by 
the  Abo  or  Yabiang,  which  has  its  source  near  the  falls  of  the  Mungo.  Where 
the  main  sti-eam  assumes  the  aspect  of  an  estuary  it  receives  several  other  affluents, 
while  the  numerous  channels  of  its  delta  communicate  on  one  side  with  the  Mungo, 
on  the  other  with  the  Lungasi. 

On  the  coast  between  the  Cameroons  estuary  and  Cape  Saint  John  several  other 
streams  reach  the  sea,  some  of  which  rival  in  volume  the  Mungo  and  the  Wuri. 
Most  of  them  are  interrupted  near  the  coast  by  cataracts,  and  all  are  marked  at 
their  mouth  by  mangrove-covered  or  "lluvial  banks,  which  under  the  influence  of , 
the  in-shore  marine  current  are  uniformly  disposed  in  the  direction  from  south  to 
north.  The  Edea,  northernmost  of  these  streams,  and  navigable  by  boats  for  34 
miles  upwards,  communicates  by  lateral  channels  with  the  Malimba  and  the  Kwa- 
Kwa  (Qua- Qua),  besides  sending  two  independent  branches  seawards.  Beyond  it 
follows  the  Moanya,  or  '?  Great  Water,"  ascended  by  ZoUer  for  24  miles  to  the 
falls,  to  which  point  it  is  navigable  for  small  steamers,  having  a  mean  breadth  of 
160  yards,  with  a  depth  ranging  from  12  to  25  feet  at  high  water. 

The  Lob^,  or  "  Great  Ba-Tauga,"  a  small  stream  chiefly  fed  by  the  surface 
waters  from  the  Elephant  Mountain  during  the  rainy  season,  is  famous  for  the 


"■M««5!nswWjBM>(f;,esv'r«R3i»»»iesW;-    \WSs'!fma:iim^»^hmA\:cimmv^ssfi4mxl^^mi»m*',':rs<i^-x:': 


"'-I^'i'?'r}'l'irK 


IblAj 


374 


WEST  AFMCA. 


beauty  of  its  cascade,  which  is  visible  even  from  the  sea.  At  this  distance  it  looks 
like  a  bright  silver  thread  drawn  across  the  current,  but  a  nearer  view  reveals  a 
broad  sheet  of  water  falling  from  a  height  of  60  feet  over  a  rocky  ledge  above 
which  rise  two  huge  granite  boulders,  one  crowned  with  a  wide-branching  tree 
and  encircled  by  a  green  girdle  of  brushwood.  Half  a  mile  lower  down  the  river 
enters  the  sea  between  two  sandy  banks  strewn  with  granite  rocks. 

Climate — Flora — Fauna. 

Apart  -from  the  great  mountain,  which  forms  a  little  world  of  its  own,  the 
Cameroons  climate  and  natural  history  differ  but  slightly  from  those  of  the  Slave 

Fig.  181.— The  LoBfi  FiLts. 

Boale  1 :  11.000. 


—rrr  ■> rr 


•TV. 


V 


i)';i-s3' 


t.  a3tlf&''eenwicK 


9'W 


*.•  NeirroHats. 


NSO  Yards. 


Coast  and  Lower  Niger.  As  in  the  neighbouring  tropical  regions  the  summer 
rains,  already  abundant  in  May,  t>  Jinue  to  increase  till  the  end  of  August,  usually 
ceasing  by  the  beginning  of  October.  In  November  sudden  squalls  and  tornadoes 
are  frequent,  and  the  vapours  are  so  dense  that  even  from  the  foot  of  the  volcano 
the  summit  is  visible  only  at  dawn  and  sunset,  except  when  the  dry  north-east 
harmattan  prevails.  ^ 

As  on  the  Guinea  coast,  the  spontaneous  vegetation  is  represented  by  the  man- 
grove on  the  half-submerged  marine  banks,  by  the  pandandus  and  raffia  palm  on 
the  lowlands,  and  higher  up  by  forests  of  great  trees  matted  together  by  a  tangled 


THE  CAMEROONS. 


87C 


ice  it  looks 
w  reveals  a 
edge  above 
icbing  tree 
m  the  river 


ts  own,  the 
t  the  Slave 


■  •  •  • 

•.■>•■ 

■  .t. 

•  • 

^'•.' 

^;>^ 

h — 

c 

55 

■••  f. 


9'5S- 


I  the  Bummer 
igust,  usually 
nd  tornadoes 
:  the  volcano 
ry  north-east 

by  the  raan- 
■affia  palm  on 
by  a  tangled 


network  of  tall  creepers.  The  cultivated  plants  are  also  the  same — cocoa-nuts, 
oil-palms,  wine-palms,  bananas,  yams,  ground-nuts,  sweet  potatoes,  manioc,  and 
especially  colocdHta,  here  called  coco,  but  which  is  simply  the  taro  of  the  South  Sea 
Islands. 

Although  still  but  partly  explored,  the  Cameroons  fauna  is  already  known  1o 
be  extremely  diversified.  Or  tVe  banks  of  the  Abo,  Buchholz  collected  about  forty 
species  of  venomous  and  ha.inlp^3  snakes,  and  the  same  naturalist  has  discovered  in 
this  region  some  new  species  of  tortoises,  cameleons,  frogs,  toads,  and  fish.  Every 
fourth  year  the  Cameroons  and  the  neighbouring  estuaries  teem  in  the  months  of 
August  and  September  with  little  yellowish  shrimps  of  a  hitherto  MnVnownthalassina 
species,  so  closely  packed  that  they  are  collected  in  basketfuls.  These  shrimps 
are  smoked  and  forwarded  in  vast  quantities  to  the  peoples  of  the  inland  plateaux. 
The  insect  world  is  also  very  rich,  butterflies  sometimes  producing  the  effect  of  a 
sort  of  haze  in  the  atmosphere,  while  the  ground  sparkles  with  the  ruby  and 
emerald  sheen  of  the  beetles.  A  species  of  fflossina,  scarr^ly  differing  in  appear- 
ance from  the  true  tsetse,  buzzes  about  men  and  beasts,  but  its  sting  is  perfectly 
harmless  and  not  even  very  painful.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  spider  family  is 
represented  by  but  few  species  in  a  region  where  they  might  find  such  abundant 
prey.  " 

The  large  mammals  are  gradually  retiring  from  the  coastlands,  although  apes 
still  abound  in  the  forest,  but  the  chimpanzees  and  gorillas,  spoken  of  by  the 
missionaries  have  not  yet  been  seen.  The  elephant  still  lingers  about  the  sea- 
board, but  his  true  domain  lies  some  60  miles  inland  in  the  Mungo  basin,  where 
numerous  herds  are  still  met.  The  ivory,  however,  of  the  Cameroons  elephants  is 
somewhat  coarse-grained  and  of  a  dull  brown  colour.  In  certain  circumstances 
these  huge  tusks  are  said  to  be  shed,  like  the  deer's  antlers,  and  traders  pretend 
to  be  able  to  recognise  by  their  texture  whether  they  belong  to  a  healthy  or 
diseased  animal. 

Inhabitants,. 

Nearly  all  the  natives  of  the  territory  claimed  by  Germany  are  classed  by 
enthnologists  amongst  the  Bantu  Negroen,  that  is,  the  great  South  African  family 
of  which  the  Zulu  Kafirs  are  typical  representatives.  Some  tribes,  however, 
occupying  a  part  of  the  district  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Meme,  chief  tributary 
of  the  Rio  del  Rey,  are  related  to  those  of  Old  Calabar,  and  like  them  speak  the 
Efik  language.  With  the  exception  of  these  tribes,  numbering  about  twenty 
thousand  souls,  all  the  rest,  as  far  as  is  at  present  known,  are  of  Bantu  speech, 
although  a  community  of  language  by  no  means  necessarily  implies  common 
descent.  From  the  Niger  delta  to  the  Cameroons  and  Moanya  estuaries,  the 
transitions  are  almost  imperceptible  in  the  physical  appearance  of  the  natives, 
who   everywhere  present   nearly   the   same   complexion   and   general    outward 

features. 

In  the  Cameroons  territory  the  chief  Bantu  tribes,  as  they  may  be  collectively 
called,  are  the  BaKisk,  that  is,  people  of  Kisk  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mem^; 


m^ 


876 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Hi^ 


%t 


the  Ba-Farami  at  the  foot  and  in  the  valleys  of  the  mountain  range  named  from 
them  ;  the  Ba-Kundu  in  the  plains  stretching  north  of  the  Cameroons  Mountain  ; 
the  Ba-Mbuku  on  the  western  slope  of  the  same  moimtain ;  the  Ba-Long  and 
Mufundu  in  the  Mungo  basin ;  the  D  wallas,  A  bos,  Wuris,  and  Budumans  of  the 
Cameroons  River,  and  farther  south  the  Bassas,  Ba-Eokos,  Ba-Nokos,  Ba-Pukos, 
and  Ibeas.  Several  of  these  tribes  are  at  constant  war  with  each  other,  and 
through  mutual  fear  some  remain  separated  hy  uninhabited  borderlands. 

In  the  western  districts  the  best-known  nation  are  the  Ba-Kwiri,  who  have 
settlements  about  the  Victoria  and  Bimbia  factories,  and  whose  territory  has  to  be 
traversed  to  reach  the  mountain.  Traditionally  they  came  from  the  east,  and  are 
noted  for  the  great  disparity  between  the  size  and  complexion  of  the  sexes,  most 
of  the  women  being  remarkably  short  and  of  lighter  colour  than  the  men.  The 
"  Brushmen,"  for  such  is  the  meaning  of  the  tribal  name,  are  grouped  in  about 
sixty  separate  clans  of  brave  warriors  and  daring  hunters.  They  are  lively  and 
intelligent,  displaying  singular  oratorical  power  in  the  popular  assemblies,  in  which 
all  married  men  take  part,  and  which  are  presided  over  by  a  responsible  "king." 
At  the  evening  gatherings  they  sing  impromptu  songs,  and  give  proof  of  consider- 
able musical  talent.  Paternal  and  filial  love  are  sometimes  carried  to  excess,  cases 
being  mentioned  of  madness  or  suicide  through  grief  at  the  loss  of  a  child.  The 
feeling  of  solidarity  is  even  extended  from  the  family  group  to  the  whole  com- 
munity, the  hunter  freely  sharing  the  produce  of  the  chase  with  all  his  neigh- 
bours, tho  brandy-bottle  earned  by  a  workman  quickly  going  the  round  of  his 
friends. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  law  of  blood  for  blood  is  pitilessly  enforced  even  in  the 
case  of  accio  ,ntal  homicide,  and  sorcery  carries  off  even  more  victims  than  the 
vendetta.  Charges  of  witchcraft  are  at  times  so  frequent  that  whole  villages  have 
to  be  abandoned,  and  the  Isle  of  Ambas,  in  the  inlet  of  the  same  name,  near 
Victoria,  has  been  depopulated,  most  of  the  inhabitants  having  poisoned  each  other 
off  with  their  everlasting  ordeals,  and  the  few  survivors  ending  by  dreading  the 
very  air  they  breathe.  Each  Mo-Kwiri  has  his  life  regulated  beforehand  by  the 
tribal  code  of  magic.  No  chief  can  approach  the  sea  under  pain  of  death ;  no 
woman  dare  eat  an  egg  or  a  chicken,  and  in  many  places  to  touch  mutton  except 
on  feast-days  is  a  capital  offence.  Religion  is  a  mere  system  of  ancestry  worship. 
At  a  king's  death  tradition  requires  the  sacrifice  of  a  captive,  whose  body  was 
formerly  shared,  like  the  fqneral  baked  meats,  between  the  dead  and  the  living. 
Good  and  evil  spirits  rule  over  the  earth,  those  of  the  forests  and  the  sea  being 
held  in  special  awe.  For  the  Cameroon  highlanders,  the  "  Seat  of  the  Gods  "  is 
itself  a  god,  "half  stone,  half  man,"  who  wraps  himself  in  »  white  snowy  mantlo 
whenever  any  serious  event  is  pending  over  his  subjects. 

The  Ba-Kundus  of  the  northern  slopes  far  excel  the  Ba-Kwiri  in  the  industrial 
arts,  although  apparently  not  their  superiors  in  natural  intelligence.  Their 
dwellings  ant  not  mere  hovels  of  brunches  and  reeds,  like  those  of  the  coast 
villages,  but  rt>al  stone  houses,  properly  cemented,  and  sometimes  even  decorated 
with  rude  frescoes  representing  men  and  animals.     The  "  palaces  "  of  the  kings 


THE  CAMEKOONS. 


877 


tamed  from 

Mountain ; 
i-Long  and 
mans  of  the 
,  Ba-Puko8, 

other,  and 
a. 

i,  who  have 
y  has  to  be 
sast,  and  are 

sexes,  most 
!  men.  The 
ed  in  about 
e  lively  and 
ies,  in  which 
ble  "king." 

of  consider- 
excess,  cases 
child.  The 
I  whole  com- 
l  his  neigh- 
ound  of  his 

I  even  in  the 
ms  than  the 
villages  have 
name,  near 
;d  each  other 
ireading  the 
shand  by  the 
)f  death;  no 
utton  except 
Btry  worship. 
)se  body  was 
id  the  living, 
he  sea  being 
the  Gods  "is 
snowy  mantle 

the  industrial 
ence.     Their 

of  the  coast 
ven  decorated 

of  the  kings 


are  also  embellished  with  carved  fetishes;  but  the  talent  of  the  Ba-Kundu  artists 
is  displayed  especially  in  the  ornamentation  of  the   "palaver  houses,"  which. 

Pig.  182. — Tribes  of  the  Cakkboonb. 
Scale  1  :  8,000,000. 


MJL'T^XAMI 


9*  East    of  Greenwich 


10' 


Range  of  the  Tambur  tpeeoh. 


0  to  100 
Feet. 


Depths. 


100  to  640 
Feet. 

,  80  Miles. 


640  Feet  and 
upwards. 


however,  also  serve  as  shambles.  The  warrior  who  has  slain  his  foe,  the  woman 
who  has  given  birth  to  a  son,  paint  themselves  in  red  to  manifest  their  renown  to 
the  eyes  of  all.      The  chief  occupation  of  the  people  is  the  weaving  of  nets  and 


878 


WEST  AFRICA. 


corrltige.  with  which  they  enclose  extensive  spaces  in  the  forests  to  entrap  the 
game  driven  in  by  the  beaters. 

The  plantations  of  the  Ba-Kundus  are  cultivated  as  carefully  as  the  finest 
European  gardens  by  their  slaves,  nearly  all  imported  from  beyond  the  Ba-Farami 
mountains.  These  slaves,  generally  taller,  stronger,  and  braver  than  their  masters, 
and  their  equals  in  intelligence,  are  serfs  in  little  more  than  the  name,  living  in 
separate  villages,  and  sometimes  even  forming  autonomous  republics  with  their 
local  chiefs  and  general  assemblies.  Their  communal  independence  is  complete, 
and  according  to  the  missionary  Richardson,  who  resided  many  years  in  the 
country,  the  political  supremacy  threatens  to  pass  from  the  nominal  rulers  to  the 
nominal  slaves 

The  authority  of  the  fetishmen  is  scarcely  less  extensive  than  amongst  the  Ba- 
Kwiri.  A  young  man  who  had  committed  the  crime  of  eating  a  chicken  at  the 
missionary's  table,  was  himself  eaten  by  his  fellow  tribesmen.  The  sight  of  an 
owl  forebodes  great  danger  ;  the  ghosts,  especially  of  enemies  are  much  dreaded, 
and  to  them  are  evidently  attributed  the  tastes  of  vampires,  for  at  the  death  of  a 
Mo-Kundu  two  graves  are  dug,  one  in  his  cabin,  the  other  in  the  forest,  in  order 
to  puzzle  the  spirits  and  prevent  them  from  knowing  where  the  body  has  been 
deposited ;  but  this  precaution  not  being  deemed  perhaps  quite  sufficient,  after  a 
certain  time  it  is  again  disinterred,  and  removed  to  a  distant  cave. 

East  of  the  Ba-£.undu6  dwell  the  Ba-Longs  and  Abos,  the  former  in  the 
Mungo,  the  latter  in  the  Yabiang  basin,  both  keen  traders  and  active  boatmen. 
But  amongst  the  Ba-Longs  all  the  profits  go  to  the  commimity,  and  the  commu- 
nistic idea  is  carried  so  far  that  some  of  the  houses  are  large  enough  to  contain  a 
whole  village  of  five  hundred  persons.  Smaller  groups  of  not  less  than  ten 
families  reside  together  in  a  vast  hall,  while  the  Aboa,  on  the  contrary,  live  quite 
apart,  each  family  in  its  own  cabin,  often  completely  isolated  or  perched  on  some 
artificial  mound,  and  surrounded  by  a  ditch  as  a  protection  against  the  periodical 
floods.  ,  '.  :.  J    v^ 

(llf  all  the  Cameroons  peoples  the  best  known  are  the  Dwallas,  whose  settle- 
ments on  the  chief  estuary  have  long  been  in  direct  '•ommercial  relation  with  the 
English  and  Germans.  Although  as  dark  as  their  neighbours,  the  Dwallas,  who 
number  perhaps  twenty  eight  thousand  altogether,  approach  nearest  to  the  European 
or  Semitic  type.  The  women  cover  their  bodies  with  intricate  tattoo  designs,  the 
men  contenting  themselves  with  a  few  simple  geometrical  figures  on  the  face, 
or  even  dispensing  entirely  with  such  marks.  Physically  they  are  a  fine  race,  whose 
well-developed  calves  upset  the  theory  of  certain  writers,  who  regard  this  anato- 
mical feature  as  an  essential  characteristic  of  the  western  Aryans.  The  Dwallas  are 
very  proud  of  their  pure  blood,  and  until  recently  were  accustomed  to  kill  all  half- 
castes,  looking  on  them  as  monsters,  whose  complexion  reflected  dishonour  on  the 
tribe.  But  the  women  are  held  in  as  low  esteem  as  in  any  part  of  the  continent, 
being  regarded  as  mere  chattels,  possessing  uo  personal  rights,  and  a  few  years  after 
birth  sold  to  their  future  masters. 

Like  the  Ba-Kwiri  and  some  other  neighbouring  tribes,  the  Dwallas  use  the 


•  "TiMjagii  .i.iajif r" 


THE  CAMEROONS. 


870 


entrap  the 

s  the  finest 
3  Ba-Farami 
heir  masters, 
le,  living  in 
i  with  their 
is  complete, 
irears  in  the 
rulers  to  the 

mgst  the  Ba- 
licken  at  the 
B  sight  of  an 
inch  dreaded, 
he  death  of  a 
rest,  in  order 
lody  has  been 
cient,  after  a 

brmer  in  the 
tive  boatmen, 
d  the  commu- 
1  to  contain  a 
less  than  ten 
try,  live  quite 
rched  on  some 
the  periodical 

whose  settle- 
Lation  with  tVe 
)  Dwallas,  who 
a  the  European 
K)  designs,  the 
IS  on  the  face, 
ine  race,  whose 
ard  this  anato- 
lie  Dwallas  are 
to  kill  all  half- 
shonour  on  the 
I  the  continent, 

few  years  after 

)wallaB  use  the 


tam-tam  or  drum  not  merely  for  warlike  or  festive  purposes,  but  for  the  trans- 
mission of  detailed  news.  This  curious  telephonic  system,  quite  as  ingenious  as  the 
discovery  of  pictorial  writing,  consists  in  a  rapid  beating  of  the  instrument  with 
varied  strength  and  tone,  so  combined  as  to  represent  either  syllables  or  distinct 
words.  It  is  a  true  language,  which  adepts  reproduce  by  the  medium  of  the  lips, 
but  which  cannot  be  understood  until  the  ear  leorns  by  practice  to  distinguish 
the  sounds.  The  Ba-Kwiri  also  speak  it  by  means  of  a  kind  of  horn,  whose  notes 
resound  from  hill  to  hill.  All  the  initiated  on  hearing  the  tam-tamiiig  are  bound 
immediately  to  repeat  it,  so  that  intelligence  is  thus  rapidly  transmitted  to  the 
extremities  of  the  land,  like  the  ripples  produced  on  the  surface  of  a  lake  by  the 
fall  of  a  stone.  Slaves  are  not  allowed  to  learn  this  drum  language,  which  very 
few  women  have  mastered,  and  the  secret  of  which  has  never  yet  been  revealed  to 
any  European. 

Anthropophagy  as  a  religious  rite  survived  till  recently.  On  great  occasions 
the  body  of  a  man  was  quartered,  each  of  the  four  chief  headmen  receiving  a  share. 
All  accession  to  power  was  preceded  by  a  sacrifice,  the  king  having  no  right  to 
exercise  his  functions  until  his  hands  were  stained  with  blood.  The  royal  power 
is  more  firmly  established  among  the  Dwallas  than  elsewhere  in  the  Cameroons. 
The  kings  have  grown  rich  with  trade,  and  one  of  them  is  certainly  one  of  the 
wealthiest  men  in  Africa,  a  sort  of  millionaire  in  the  European  sense.  Their 
large  profits  are  derived  from  their  position  as  middlemen  for  all  the  transit  trade 
between  the  interior  and  the  factories  on  the  coast.  Hence  their  alarm  at  the 
efforts  of  the  whites  to  penetrate  inland,  and  commercial  jealousy  has  certainly 
been  the  chief  cause  that  has  hitherto  prevented  the  exploration  of  this  part  of 
the  continent.  Travellers  who  have  crossed  the  zone  of  the  coastlands  find 
themselves  suddenly  arrested  by  a  thousand  unexpected  obstacles;  the  guides 
refuse  to  accompany  them,  the  porters  bolt  to  the  bush  or  throw  down  their  loads 
midway;  perhaps  also  on  certain  occasions  the  exploring  zeal  of  the  whites  has  been 
cooled  by  a  dose  of  poison.  Even  when  the  middlemen  on  the  coast  allow  expedi- 
tions to  be  organised,  they  find  means  of  thwarting  them  before  direct  relations 
can  be  established  with  the  inland  populations. 

As  in  the  Niger  basin  the  staples  of  export  are  palm-oil  and  nuts.  Ivory  and 
some  dyewoods  are  exported,  besides  caoutchouc,  extracted  by  the  Swedish  settlers 
on  the  Cameroons  mountains  from  Candolphia  florida,  a  species  of  creeper  from  160 
to  200  feet  long.  Ebony  and  a  Little  coffee  complete  the  cargoes  taken  in  exchange 
for  spirits  (here  generally  called  rum),  tobacco,  textile  fabrics,  pearls,  arms,  and 
furniture,  spirits  representing  two-thirds  of  the  total  value. 

Except  the  Swedish  settlers  on  the  mountains,  there  are  no  European  colonists  in 
the  Cameroons,  and  very  few  whites  even  on  the  coast,  beyond  some  thirty  or  forty 
missionaries  and  traders.  Several  of  the  factories  are  even  managed  by  blacks  or 
men  of  colour,  who  show  such  aptitude  for  trade  that  it  may  be  asked  whether 
they  may  not  ultimately  acquire  a  complete  monoply  of  the  local  traffic. 


WEST  AFBICA. 


In 


1 


ToPOOKAPHY. 

Towards  the  north-west  frontier  the  first  station  is  the  fishing  villuge  of  Bibundi, 
which  serves  as  the  outport  of  Bomana,  lying  10  miles  inland.  The  German 
traders  propose  to  make  it  the  dep6t  for  the  produce  of  the  Upper  Oyono,  at  pre- 
sent forwarded  to  the  English  factories  at  New  Calabar. 

Victoria,  the  chief  station  in  the  Cumeroons,  was  founded  in  1858  by  some 
Baptist  missionaries  who  bad  been  expelled  from  Fernando- Po  by  an  intolerant 
Spanish  governor.  The  whole  district  was  acquired  by  them  for  a  few  casks  of 
salt  meat  and  biscuits,  and  one  of  the  most  picturesque  sites  in  the  world  selected 
for  the  station,  at  the  foot  of  the  forest-clad  mountain  and  on  the  shores  of  an 
island-studded  inlet.  The  two  verdant  islands  of  Ambaa  (Ambozes,  Amboise)  and 
MondoU  stand  out  against  the  hazy  background  of  Fernando- Po  with  its  cloud- 
caj/ped  cone,  while  the  beach,  fringed  with  dense  vegetation,  stretches  away  to  the 
south  and  west. 

Victoria  offers  some  advantages  as  a  naval  station,  the  roadstead  north  of  the 
islands  being  accessible  to  vessels  of  average  draught,  which  may  here  procure  a 
supply  of  pure  water  from  a  copious  stream  descending  from  the  mountain.  The 
deep  inlet  of  Man-of-War  Bay,  penetrating  far  inland,  might  also  be  easily 
connected  with  Victoria  by  a  short  road,  perhaps  even  by  a  canal  cut  across  the 
intervening  muddy  neck  of  the  peninsula.  At  present  almost  the  only  inhabitants 
of  Victoria  are  some  Ba-Ewiri  and  fugitives  threatened  with  the  vendetta  or  the 
vengeance  of  the  fetishmen.  Owing  to  the  political  changes,  the  English  Baptist 
missionaries  have  been  compelled  to  sell  their  establishment  and  their  pi'oprietary 
rights  over  the  neighbouring  lands.  The  German  Government  has  introduced  in 
their  place  missionaries  from  Basle,  charged  to  instruct  the  natives  in  the  German 
tongue  and  teach  them  to  obey  their  new  masters. 

East  of  the  wooded  headland  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  great  mountain 
lies  the  haven  of  Bimbia,  partly  sheltered  from  the  surf  by  Nichols  Island.  But 
the  approach  is  tortuous  and  difficult,  and  during  the  rainy  season  the  billows 
break  furiously  on  the  bur.  The  bay  is  lined  by  three  villages  forming  an  almost 
continuous  row  of  houses  inhabited  chiefly  by  fishermen.  Bimbia  is  the  natural 
outport  for  the  large  Ba-Kwiri  villages  Sopo,  Limoka,  Btcassa,  Bwea  or  Bea, 
scattered  over  the  surrounding  slopes. 

In  the  Mungo  basin  the  port  and  chief  market  near  the  large  village  of 
Mbinga  communicates  with  Mbinga  by  a  deep  channel  offering  excellent  anchor- 
age to  large  vessels.  Farther  on  lies  Bakinidn-ba-Nambek,  an  American  missionary 
station  in  the  Ba-Kundu  territory.  Kumba,  much  farther  inland,  appears  to  be  a 
groat  market  for  slaves  and  palm-oil,  with  a  population,  according  to  Schwarz,  of 
nearly  four  thousand. 

The  name  Cameroom  is  applied  collectively  to  about  a  dozen  villages  with  a 
joint  population  of  ten  thousand  on  the  east  side  of  the  Cameroons  estuary,  some 
of  which  are  separately  knoAvn  as  King  Bill's  Totcn,  King  Akn-n's  Town,  from  the 
names  of  the  local  "  kings."     They  are  reached  by  vessels  of  average  tonnage, 


I 


^e  of  Bibundi, 
The  German 
yono,  at  pre- 

858  by  somo 
an  intolerant 
few  casks  of 
«rorld  selected 
shores  of  an 
Amboiae)  and 
ith  its  cloud- 
as  away  to  the 

d  north  of  the 
here  procure  a 
ountain.  The 
also  be  easily 
cut  across  the 
ily  inhabitants 
rendetta  or  the 
Inglish  Baptist 
eir  proprietary 
s  introduced  in 
in  the  German 

great  mountain 
b  Island.  But 
jon  the  billows 
ming  an  almost 
a  is  the  natural 
Bicea  or  Bea, 

arge  village  of 
tcellent  anchor- 
ican  missionary 
appears  to  be  a 
J  to  Schwarz,  of 

villages  with  a 
as  estuary,  some 
I  TofPn,  from  the 
verage  tonnage, 


,-i:v.i»L^.^--^:..:^-i-C-.i^4;^-...-.-t^-   -_„,„---,-„..,..„-'-_-.  .^.    -:..      ,-...„-.-. 

--    1 

THE  CAMERtWNS. 

881 

those  of  larger  size  stopping  at  the  entrance  of  the  roadstead. 

A  few  hulks  are 

::..•''            .        ,.  ^^.^   ,';;,.v  -  ;■  1,.  ;:•■  .^;n'A,^>;;-v  -,*:.i;/,-}f..  ,:^' ~>.,;.'v'r/'    :■.-      '  ■■    ':.:^.- 

-.,.. 

H^SHMHHHH 

w^^ 

^^^^^^^^^^^■IHsi^^^^^^^^KiH^Hv^^^fl^B^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HHH^I 

I^B^Hl^^^^Py.4y^^^^^^EI 

be 


also  moored  opposite  the  factories,  although  most  of  the  traders  now  reside  in  well 


--!.u!mz,'rimt'iiiMm*jm!*»>MuiKm$emte*iir. 


882 


WEST  AFRICA. 


built  modern  hniisoson  the  mainland.  Tin*  puluce  of  the  governor  crowns  u  gently 
sloping  torruce,  where  stood  a  native  village  destroyed  by  the  German  flotilla  in 
iHHi).  JJut  the  oftiiiials  usually  reside  ut  the  health  resort  established  on  the 
exjwsed  sandy  beach  at  the  extremity  of  Cape  8wellaba,  to  whioh  the  Germans 
have  given  the  somewhat  eccentric  name  of  Kaiser  Wilheiin'8  Bad, 

The  term  liio/ra  figuring  on  most  maps  as  the  name  of  a  town  in  the 
Cameroons  basin  has  absolutely  no  existence.  It  appears  to  have  beeu  applied  to 
some  imaginary  kingdom  or  capital,  and  afterwards  extended  to  the  neighbouring 


W 


J. 


Figr.  184— Victoria  awd  Bimbia. 
fJoiUe  1 :  i&O.uuo 


Swamps. 


Otol« 
leet. 


Deptba. 


16to»> 
Feet. 


8S  Feet  and 

upwards. 

a\  Miles. 


Forcsta.  , 


bight.  But  it  should  be  removed  from  modern  geographical  nomenclature,  having 
apparently  originated  through  a  clerical  error  for  Mn/ra,  the  name  of  a  mountain 
inscribed  in  the  early  maps  on  the  exact  site  of  the  Ba-Farami  range,  so  that  the 
resemblance  between  these  two  terms  may  not  be  altogether  fortuitous. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  Moauya  have  been  established  three  factories  trading 
with  the  neighbouring  "  Little,"  or  Northern  Ba-Tangas.  Higher  up  the  centre 
of  traffic  is  at  the  large  village  of  Jarnnjn,  where  the  less  civilised  Ba-Kokos  of 
the  interior  come  in  contact  with  the  Ba-Tangas.  Under  the  common  designation 
of  "  Great  Ba-Tangas  "  are  comprised  two  distinct  tribes,  the  Bu-Pukos  north  of 


THE  CAMEIIOONS. 


m 


'118  a  Rontly 
111  flotilla  in 
hod  on  the 
bo  Germans 

own  in  the 
n  applied  to 
eighbouring 


rests. 


lature,  having 
of  a  mountain 
ge,  so  that  the 
us. 

ctories  trading 
•  up  the  centre 
d  Ba-Koko8  of 
ion  designation 
Pukos  north  of 


Klephant  Mountain,  and  the  Bu-Nokos  in  the  Crihy  dixtriot  and  farther  south  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Ilio  del  Carapo.  The  loiig-Htanding  hluod-fimd  botwoon  these 
two  tribes  was  recently  brought  to  an  end  by  tht-  intorvontion  of  tho  Kuropoan 
traders.  This  group  of  tribes  are  tho  most  wkiltul  boat-builders  in  the  whole  of 
Africa.  Thoy  launch  on  tho  Moanya  largo  war  galleys  iiupollcd  by  about  sixteen 
rowers,  with  a  speed  unrivalled  by  any  Kuroixjan  craft.  Amongst  tho  Southern 
or  Great  Ba-Tongas  these  boats  have  been  replaced  by  skiffs  of  amaziiif^ly  light 
build,  about  7  feet  long,  12  iiu  hes  broad,  t)  inches  deep,  weighing  but  from  10  to 
20  pounds,  with  which  they  skim  over  the  crests  of  the  waves,  fearlessly  crossing 
the  dangerous  surf-beaten  bars  which  Europeans  scarcely  venture  to  approach  in 
open  boats. 

The  factories  in  the  Great  Ba-Tanga  territory  are  at  present  the  most 
important  depots  for  the  ivory  trade,  brought  from  the  interior  by  the  Ibeus  (Ma- 
Bea),  or  "  Brush  People,"  who  speak  a  very  different  idiom  from  that  of  the  coast 
tribes.  Like  the  Fans  farther  south,  these  Ibeas  are  constantly  mo\ing  seawards, 
and  have  already  reached  the  coast  at  two  points  north  and  south  of  tho  liob^ 
River.  Beyond  the  coast  plateaux  and  the  hypothetical  Sierra  Guerreira  range, 
east  of  their  domain,  lie  the  regions  stretching  towards  the  Upper  U-Banghi  and 
Shari  basins,  where  is  found  the  JAha,  or  "  Lake,"  frequently  mentioned  by  the 
natives.  But  whether  it  is  really  a  great  sheet  of  v/ater,  or  a  large  river,  perhaps 
the  U-Banghi  itself,  is  still  unknown.  Of  all  the  unexplored  Central  African 
regions  these  have  hitherto  best  preserved  their  secret. 


v-v:iv<>. 


«  i' vi . 


^r"' ;:-..■>■-'£"■"-,'"■-:■ 

'■    ...'''-■■ 

■•-yt 

*'..\-.:.v;\V^: 

."- 

'  ^m'^-'  '■  ■-'■ 

-'.f'J 

-.-"-  ^S          .'            '    'k 

:-:; 

i 

A:  ^fiV'-.^fe 

-■i<^a 

J:'iijk\^^:i<    ■ 

■^^^ 

"'%■'-'  " 

■V?>w^^;J'-;'|i"  '"^-'^ 

■*• 

^^- 

'■:'  *  4vv^;''   '^^'-y 

■\:a'l 

>;■?  *vi  ::.i  ^  ^•:i•^• 

-'l-'' 

'-■,■- 

iW     \'Vj-- 

'^*- 

^/ 


'.1^ 


:1! 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  GABOON  AND  OOOWAY  BASINS. 

Spanish,  French,  and  Portuguese  Possessions, 

ILL  recently  most  of  the  seaboard  stretching  for  about  900  miles 
between  the  mouths  of  the  Rio  del  Campo  and  Congo  was  left  to  its 
native  inhabitants,  tho  European  Powers  confining  themselves  to  a 
few  points  on  the  coast,  such  as  Curisco,  Libreville,  and  Eabinda. 
At  present  there  is  scarcely  a  desert  strand  or  a  single  mangrove 
thicket  that  is  not  claimed  as  an  integral  part  of  some  political  domain,  and 
fanciful  frontiers  have  even  been  traced  across  remote,  unexplored,  or  at  least  little- 
known  regions  of  the  interior.  Were  priority  of  discovery  the  only  title  to 
possession,  the  rights  of  Portugal  could  not  be  questioned,  for  the  Lusitanian 
mariners  had  already  crossed  the  line  in  1470,  and  many  of  the  headlands  and 
inlets  along  the  seaboard  still  bear  Portuguese  names.  Thus  the  most  advanced 
promontory.  Cape  Lopez,  recalls  the  navigator  Lopo  Gon^alvez,  while  the  neigh- 
bouring estuary  of  Femao  Vaz  is  named  from  another  sailor  of  the  same  nationality. 
It  is  also  certain  that  the  Portuguese  formed  permanent  settlements  at  several 
points  along  the  coast,  and  the  remains  have  even  been  discovered  of  buildings 
and  of  rusty  g\ms  in  the  island  of  Coniquet  (Konike),  towards  the  centre  of  the 
Gaboon  estuary.  But  for  over  three  hundred  and  fifty  years  after  the  first 
discoveries,  European  commercial  relations  were  mainly  confined  to  the  slave  trade, 
those  engaged  in  this  nefarious  business  maintaining  a  studied  silence,  and  screen- 
ing from  the  eyes  of  the  outer  world  the  scenes  of  their  profitable  operations. 

The  work  of  exploration,  properly  so-called,  was  not  seriously  undertaken 
before  the  middle  of  the  present  century,  after  the  acquisition  by  France  of  a  strip 
of  land  on  the  north  side  of  the  Gaboon  estuary  as  a  depot  for  revictualling  her 
cruisers.  The  first  station  was  founded  in  1842,  and  soon  after  the  whole  estuary 
was  surveyed,  and  expeditions  sent  to  explore  the  Komo  and  Raraboe  affluents. 
Then  followed  Du  Chaillu's  excursions  to  the  interior,  and  his  sensational  accounts 
of  the  gorilla,  tho  terrible  "  man  of  the  woods,"  after  which  the  Ogoway  basin 
was  thrown  open  and  largely  exploried  by  Braouezec,  Serval,  Griffon  du  Bellay, 
Aymes,  De  Compiegne  and  Marche,  Walker  and  Oscar  Lenz.     The  systematic 


1|"»  |1IU»H^^UII 


t  900  miles 
as  left  to  its 
imselves  to  a 
nd  Kabinda. 
•le  mangrove 
domain,  and 
t  least  little- 
only  title  to 
e  Lusitanian 
eadlands  and 
lost  advanced 
lie  the  neigh- 
[C  nationality. 
its  at  several 
of  buildings 
centre  of  the 
fter  the  first 
le  slave  trade, 
e,  and  screen- 
jrations. 
y  undertaken 
ince  of  a  strip 
'ictualling  her 
whole  estuary 
iboe  affluents, 
ional  accounts 
Ogoway  basin 
'on  du  Bellay, 
'he  systematic 


-*(?., 


,CV 


.jiiiuiiii  II  JWi^^J^L    ^V 


,,,,«^>^.fujf^\,i/gmi\i»m'i»}>i)i'';tf^. 


THE  GABOON  AND  OGOWAY  BASINS. 


885 


work  of  survey  was  completed  by  the  two  Bo  Brazzaa,  Ballay,  Mizon,  Rouvier, 
and  others,  thanks  to  whose  labours  nearly  the  whole  triangular  region  bounded 
east  and  south  by  the  Congo,  north  by  the  Gaboon  and  the  equdtor,  is  now  known 
in  its  more  salient  features,  while  the  numerous  positions  determined  astronomi- 
cally supply  sufficient  materials  for  detailed  maps.  The  Spanish  travellers  Iradier, 
Montes  de  Oca,  and  Ossorio,  have  on  their  part  traversed  in  various  directions  the 
whole  region  stretching  north  of  the  Gaboon  as  far  as  the  Rio  del  Campo,  and 
penetrated  for  120  miles  inland.  Thus  in  order  to  complete  the  preliminary 
survey  of  the  equatorial  lands  which  the  European  powers  have  appropriated  by 

Fig.  185.— Chibp  Routes  OP  ExPLOBEBs  IN  THE  Gabooji  AJJD  O00WA.Y  Basins. 

Scale  1  :  12,100,000,  /' 


0to6«) 
Feet. 


Pepths. 


e«0  to  8,400 
Feet. 


3,400  Feet  and 
upwards. 


,  ISOMUee. 


diplomatic  conventions,  nothing   remains  except  to  visit   certain  north-eastern 
districts  watered  by  the  Congo  affluents. 

To  France  has  been  assigned  by  far  the  greater  part  of  this  equatorial  region, 
h  r  share  including  the  whole  of  the  Gaboon,  Ogoway  and  Kwilu  basins,  besides 
those  of  the  Congo  affluents  as  far  as  the  U-Banghi.  Spain  adds  to  the  island  of 
Corisco  and  the  two  islets  of  Elobey  a  small  strip  of  territory  on  the  mainland, 
while  Portugal  retains  possession  of  an  enclave  limited  north  by  the  river 
Massabi,  east  and  south  by  conventional  straight  lines  separating  it  from  the 
new  Congo  State.  The  area  of  this  enclave  may  be  roughly  estimated  at  1.000 
square  miles,  with  a  population  of  at  least  thirty  thousand ;  but  the  extent  of  the 


886 


WEST  AFRICA. 


fi* 


m 


French  and  Spanish  territories  can  be  measured  only  by  the  degrees  of  latitude 
and  longitude.  Eroadly  speaking,  "  Equatorial  France  "  may  be  said  to  have  an 
area  of  abou .  240,000  square  miles,  while  the  territory  claimed  by  Spain  varies 
from  10,000  to  a  very  few  square  miles,  according  to  the  different  national  and 
foreign  estimates.  As  far  as  can  be  judged  from  the  conflicting  statements  of 
travellers  the  total  population  cannot  be  less  than  two  millions,  while  according 
to  De  Brazza  it  is  more  probably  hve  millions,  including  the  lands  draining  the 
Congo. 

Physical  Features.  '      . 

lu  the  whole  of  this  region  between  the  sea  and  the  Congo  there  are  no  lofty 
ranges,  the  highest  summits  falling  below  5,000  feet,  while  very  few  exceed  3,500 
feet.  In  the  north  the  most  conspicuous  eminence  is  Mount  Batta,  rising  like  a 
tower  above  the  neighbouring  hills.  Eastwards  from  this  point  stretch  the 
parallel  Siete  Sierras,  or  "  Seven  Ridges,"  of  the  Spaniards,  merging  southwards 
in  the  range  formerly  known  as  the  Sierra  do  Crystal,  or  "Crystal  Mountains," 
\vith  peaks  said  to  exceed  4,600  feet.  South  of  the  Ogoway  the  culminating 
point.  Mount  Igumbi  JNdele,  in  the  Sette  Kama  basin,  appears  to  be  not  much 
more  than  3,500  feet  high,  while  the  hills  about  the  Upper  Kwilu  rise  little  above 
1,000  feet.  iUtogether  the  relief  of  the  land  presents  a  great  uniformity,  a  series 
of  ridges  parallel  with  the  coast  following  from  west  to  east  in  the  form  of  terraces 
skirted  by  chains  of  hills. 

The  central  terrace  consists  of  gneiss  flanked  on  the  east  by  quartz,  talcky 
and  micaceous  schists  and  elevated  sandy  plains  as  level  as  a  lake.  Westwards 
stretch  chalk  and  Jurassic  strata  advancing  with  a  few  interruptions  towards  the 
coast,  and  in  many  places  covered  with  laterite.  Old  lavas  also  occur  overlying 
the  terraces,  and  the  early  travellers  even  spoke  of  "  burning  mountains,"  such 
as  the  Onyiko  and  Otorabi  in  the  northern  part  of  t^'  ?goway  valley  about  120 
miles  from  the  sea.  But  although  recent  exploi  'tion  has  shown  that  these 
"  fetish  mountains  "  are  not  volcanoes,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  great  geological 
changes  have  taken  plsce  in  this  part  of  the  continent,  the  very  form  of  the  coast 
attesting  a  considerable  modification  in  the  relative  level  of  land  and  sea.  The 
curve  of  the  shore-line,  tolerably  regular  north  of  Cape  St.  John  and  developed 
with  ahnost  geometrical  symmetry  south  of  Cape  Lopez,  is  broken  between  these 
two  points  by  the  three  deep  inlets  of  Corisoo  Bay,  the  Gaboon  estuary,  and 
Nazareth  Bay.  Corisco  island  is  itself  a  mere  fragment  of  the  old  seaboard, 
while  t|w'  imnierous  stagnant  waters  south  of  Cape  Lopez  represent  old  river 
beds  that  have  shifted  their  channels.  Possibly  the  great  riverain  lagoon  of 
Banya  may  be  nothing  more  than  the  remains  of  a  former  mouth  of  the  Congo. 


Rivers. 

Thanks  to  the  copious  rainfall,  the  region  comprised  between  the  Cameroons 
and  the  Conjjo  is  intersected  by  a  large  number  of  closely  ramifying  streams. 


7?g-^J'^JV';1l|pt'lffW!i)^»',^'f■w^!L^l!w.^'J^.^'^^^^^^  \^'  j w;, ■^.g'ijftit'j'.iutj-.yirt'iJ ;  ::;i,iyi» 


jf  latitude 
o  have  an 
)aia  vui'ies 
tional  and 
;ement8  of 
according 
aiuing  the 


\ 


ie\: 


re  no  lofty 
sceed  3,500 
ising  like  a 
stretch  the 
southwards 
lountains," 
mlminating 
3  not  much 
little  above 
ity,  a  series 
1  of  terraces 

lartz,  talcky 
"Westwards 
towards  the 
ir  overlying 
itains,"  such 
sy  about  120 
[  that  these 
at  goological 
of  the  coast 
id  sea.  The 
d  developed 
stween  these 
estuary,  and 
Id  seaboard, 
at  old  river 
n  lagoon  of 
he  Congo. 


3  Cameroon  8 
ng  streams. 


;■       -f.- 


;^£,L 


THE  GABOON  ESTUARY. 


887 


The  Etembwe,  or  Rio  del  Campo,  southern  limit  of  the  German  possessions,  is 
followed  by  the  Eyo,  or  San-Benito,  which  reaches  the  coast  36  miles  north  of 
Cape  St.  John,  and  which  is  navigable  for  20  miles  to  the  Yob^  falls.  The  Muni 
(Angra,  or  Danger),  which  enters  Corisco  Bay  opposite  the  Elobey  Islands,  is  also 
obstructed  by  formidable  cataracts  during  its  passage  through  the  red  sandstone 
escarpments  of  the  coast  ranges. 

South  of  the  Muni  the  narrow  island-studded  inlet  bounded  on  the  west  by  the 
Cape  Esteiras  peninsula  has  received  the  name  of  Rio  Munda,  as  if  it  were  a  river, 
being  in  reality  a  mere  estuary  into  which  are  discharged  a  few  feeble  coast- 
streams.  The  same  description  applies  to  the  Gaboon  itself,  which  also  received 
the  name  of  riv  from  the  early  navigators,  and  which  till    within  the  last  few 

.  1  ■;     ■  .''..l^'i'-'Vi  X....  •.    -    ■      ;,  ^ ,  ■_/;  .   '■.■..:';.       ,\, 

Kg.   186. — CONFLtJKNOE  OF  THB  KOKO  AND  RaKBOA.   .'.  ;V 
Soale  1 :  4fiO,000. 


Easi  (^   GrMiwiek 


Depths. 


Otoie 
VMt. 


upwai'da. 
.  r.  Miles. 


decades  was  still  regarded  as  one  of  the  great  continental  rivers,  whose  sources 
were  sought  in  the  great  lakes  of  the  interior.  But  the  Gaboon,  so  called  by  the 
Portuguese  .from  its  fancied  resemblance  to  a  gabao,  or  "  cabin,"  penetrates 
inland  little  more  than  40  miles.  In  its  general  outlines,  size,  and  hydrographic 
system  it  recalls  in  a  striking  way  the  French  astuarj'  of  the  Gironde,  although 
somewhat  broader  and  with  a  greater  average  depth.  Like  that  of  the  Gironde, 
the  entrance  is  obstructed  with  sandbanks,  which  have  had  to  be  carefully  buoyed, 
marking  off  four  deep  channels  with  26  to  33  feet  of  water  at  ebb  tide.  In  its 
upper  reaches  the  estuary  is  accessible  to  vessels  drawing  13  or  14  feet,  and  its 
two  affluent*,  the  Koino  and  Ramboo,  as  well  as  several  of  their  tributaries,  are 


¥ 


888 


WEST  AFEICA. 


also  navigable  by  small  craft.     Of  the  two  the  Eorao  is  the  larger,  rising  like  the 
Muui  in  the  upland  valleys  of  the  Crystal  Range. 

Some  60  miles  south-west  of  the  Gaboon  estuary,  tho  sea  is  reached  by  the 
Ogoway,  largest  of  all  the  rivers  between  the  Niger  and  Congo,  and  like  the 
Gaboon  at  first  supposed  to  be  also  one  of  the  great  continental  watercourses. 
Even  after  Livingstone's  discover^'  of  the  Lua-Laba,  by  him  wrongly  supposed  to 
be  the  Upper  Nile,  many  geographers  fancied  that  this  emissary  of  the  great 
Cazembe  lakes  might  trend  westwards  to  the  Ogoway,  and  it  was  this  theory  that 
gave  occasion  to  the  expeditions  of  Oscar  Lenz  and  of  other  explorers  in  this 

Fig    187.— Supposed  Coubse  of  the  Oooway  before  the  late  dibootekim. 

Soale  1  : 6,000,030. 


Oeptbe. 


.1  t<)  4Mft      . 

Feet. 

MO  Feet  and 
upwards.          ' 

.....    C'cm'se  acoording:  to  Kiepcrt. 

True  course 

_120Milea. 

region.  But  altlough  occupying  e  much  humbler  position  than  had  been 
supposed,  the  Oguway  still  sends  down  j  greiilci-  volume  than  either  the  Rhine  or 
the  Rhone,  or  any  other  river  in  tho  west  of  Eurof  4t  the  same  time  the 
estimates  of  1,580,000  or  1,760,000  ouI)ic  feet  per  second  during  the  floods  are 
probably  exaggerated;  and  allowing  even  that  four-fifths  of  the  rain  falling  within 
its  basin  of  120,000  square  miles  ultimutcly  reaches  the  sea,  the  mean  discharge 
cannot  greatly  exceed  350,000  cubic  feet  per  second. 

Thr  farthest  headstreams  of  the  Ogoway,  which  has  a  total  course  of  about 
720  miles,  rise  in  the  Ba-Teke  territory,  within  120  miles  west  of  the  Congo. 
After  its  junction  with  the  Fassa,  the  main  stream,  already  navigable  for  boats,  at 


>{4 


I    ! 


ri::':.::-  i;:.;J:!'"::,.  ■  ..|.; 


^ 


.-f 


THE  OOOWAY. 


889 


least  in  the  rainy  season,  meanderH  first  westwards,  then  to  the  north,  interrupted 
so  frequently  by  rocky  obstructions  that  the  whole  of  its  middle  course  may  be 
described  as  a  continuous  rapid.  At  the  I)uin<^  falls  it  trends  abruptly  westwards, 
beyond  which  it  is  again  deflpctfd  towards  the  equator,  which  it  follows  in  a 
somewhat  westerly  'direction,  as  if  to  fall  into  the  Gaboon  estuary.  Here  it  is 
joined  above  the  Bowe  falls  by  the  Ivindo,  a  large  stream  which  is  supposed  to 
have  its  source  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  U-Banghi.  From  this  point  the 
Ogoway  rolls  down  a  great  body  of  water,  but  the  current  is  constantly  impeded 
by  rocky  barriers,  "  fetish  stones,"  as  they  are  called,  which  the  boatman  in 
passing  hopes  to  propitiate  by  sprinkling  them  with  a  few  drops  of  water  from  his 
paddle. 

From  the  station  of  Njole,  below  the  last  rapids,  the  lower  course  flows  for  200 
miles  to  Nazareth  Bay,  at  some  points  narrowing  to  500  or  600  yards,  but  else- 
where expanding  to  a  breadth  of  nearly  2  miles.  The  current  is  dotted  with 
numerous  islands,  some  consolidated  by  the  roots  of  trees,  others  mere  sandbanks, 
or  else  floating  masses  of 'vegetable  refuse,  arrested  by  the  tall  sedge  growing  on 
the  bottom.  Even  at  low  water,  gunboats  drawing  3  or  4  feet  may  ascend  for 
over  180  miles  from  the  sea,  although  till  recently  no  whites  were  allowed  to  pass 
"  Fetish  Point,"  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ngunie.  This  great  affluent  from  the 
south  is  itself  navigable  for  60  miles  to  the  Samba  falls,  which  rise  scarcely  4  feet 
above  high-water  level. 

Below  the  Ngunie  junction,  the  Ogoway  ramifies  like  the  Semgf-l  into  lateral 
channels,  which  receive  the  overflow  during  the  periodical  inundations,  when  they 
expand  into  vast  lacustrine  or  swampy  reservoirs,  dotted  over  with  islands  Such 
is  the  great  eliva  (liba),  or  "lake,"  usually  known  by  the  name  of  Zonengway, 
famous  for  its  holy  island,  residence  of  a  powerful  fetishman.  This  lagoon,  about' 
40  feet  at  its  deepest  point,  covers  a  space  of  at  least  200  square  miles,  and 
communicates  with  the  river  through  three  navigable  channels,  two  in^iuents  from, 
one  an  emissary  to,  the  Ogoway.  Farther  west,  but  still  on  the  same  south  side, 
occurs  the  Anenghe  (lonenga,  Onangwe),  a  basin  of  similar  formation,  while  on 
the  north  side  a  branch  of  the  main  stream  is  skirted  by  the  Azingo  and  some 
other  lateral  depressions,  also  large  enough  to  deserve  the  name  of  lake. 

The  delta  properly  so  called,  beginning  at  the  Anenghe  lagoon,  comprises 
between  the  two  chief  branches,  the  Lower  Ogoway  in  the  north  and  the  Wango 
in  the  south,  an  area  of  about  1,900  square  miles,  including  the  island  of  Cape 
Lopez,  which  projects  far  seawards.  This  region  is  intersected  in  all  directions  by 
shifting  channels  and  backwaters  accessible  during  the  floods  from  at  least  three 
points — Nazareth  Bay  in  the  north,  20  to  30  feet  deep,  the  Fernfto  Vaz  channel  in 
the  south,  and  between  the  two,  Cupe  Lopez  Bay.  The  delta  is  continued  south- 
wards by  the  extensive  Nkomi  lagoon,  ramifying  into  a  thousand  creeks  and  fed 
from  the  north  by  the  Wango  branch  of  the  Ogoway,  from  the  south  by  the  rembo 
("  river  ")  Obenga  flowing  from  the  hills  to  the  south  of  Lake  Zonengway. 

Other  lagoons  continue  south-eastwards  this  half-submerged  region,  beyond 
which  the  Nyanga,  escaping  through  the  gorges  of  the  coast  range,  falls  into  the 


^  ^».  u'^.^ft.--m.--^Ai-  -MEi-nit  uJnHfin. ..  .n 


\ 


890 


WEST  AFRICA. 


sea  bolow  the  .Sette  Cuma  estuary.  But  between  the  Ogoway  and  th  ~  Cnnfj;*  the 
most  important  stream  is  the  Kwilu  (Nguella),  which  higher  up  is  known  as  the 
Niadi  or  Niari,  with  a  total  course  of  about  WA)  miles.  Like  the  Ogoway,  the 
Kwilu  describes  a  great  bend  northwards,  and  after  its  junction  with  the  Lilli  and 
with  an  emissary  from  the  Nyanga,  it  pierces  the  region  of  schistose  hills  through 


HiH 


Pig.  188.— The  Ooowat  and  Zokenowat. 

Soale  1  :  92^000. 


Last  or  Greenwich 


iO°ao- 


10*  »• 


~>-  30Milei>. 


,il  I 


a  series  of  abrupt  defiles.  It  is  navigable  by  gunboats  for  36  miles  from  its  mouth 
to  a  "  gate  "  of  vertical  rocks  rising  100  feet  above  the  stream,  and  supposed  by 
the  natives  to  be  kept  open  by  a  powerful  fetish,  who,  however,  may  close  the 
passage  at  any  moment.  Higher  up  follow  still  more  formidable  gorges,  in  one  of 
which  the  river,  from  1,000  to  over  2,000  feet  broad  on  the  plains,  is  contracted  to 
a  narrow  channel  20  feet  wide.     The  Kwilu,  which  in  some  respects  offers  greater 


'  1    !  I 


■«>lll»llll 'll>'^'     "" 


-  Wiim.fiHii     ,F'i»iW 


Congo  the 
own  as  the 
go  way,  the 
le  T^ilH  and 
Ik  through 


CIJMATK  OF  THE  GABOON  REGION. 


Wl 


io/t. 


^, 


_,..? 


;»; I 


rem  its  mouth 
i  supposed  bj' 
oaay  close  the 
rges,  in  one  of 
s  contracted  to 
i  offers  greater 


facilities  for  penetrating  inland  than  the  Ogoway,  leads  to  a  region  within  (50  miles 
of  the  Congo,  which  is  reported  to  abound  in  copper  and  loud  deposits. 


Cmmate. 

The  broad  features  of  the  climate  are  revealed  by  the  periodical  rise  and  fall 
of  the  fluvial  waters.  Thus  the  Ogoway  continues  to  rise  from  September  to  the 
middle  of  December,  and  then  falls  to  the  end  of  January,  indicating  the  season  of 

Fix-  189,— Lines  of  EauAL  Cloumnbsb  in  Afbioa. 
~  Soalfl  1 :  lOO.ooftOOO. 


_  S.400  UUea. 


the  winter  rains  followed  by  a  short  interval  of  fine  weather.  Then  follow  the 
great  rains,  when  the  river  again  begins  to  rise,  usually  attaining  its  maximum 
about  the  first  week  in  May,  and  again  regularly  subsiding  till  September.  The 
rainfall  gradually  diminishes  southwards  from  the  Rio  del  Campo  to  Cape  Lopez 
and  thence  to  the  Portuguese  territory,  falling  from  about  120  inches  north  of  the 
Gaboon  to  100  about  the  equator,  but  varying  greatly  on  the  Loango  coast,  where 
it  fell  from  63  inches  in  1875  to  no  more  than  16  in  1877.  The  quantity  of 
moisture  precipitated  corresponds  generally  to  the  frequency  and  density  of  the 


ir 


li 


802 


WEST  AFRICA. 


nebulosity,  aiul  M.  Teissorenc  tie  Bort's  chiirt  indicating  the  linos  of  eq'  i  cloud- 
U0H8  for  the  whole  continent,  shows  that  fogs  uud  mists  occur  most  fre  ^uently  in 
the  Oulxion  and  Ogoway  busins. 

Ill  the  same  region  the  annual  tomi)oruture  has  an  extreme  range  of  about 
45°  v.,  falling  from  100°  to  57^  at  Shinshosho  in  6"  »'  south  and  from  1)!^  to  6^"  at 
Sibangho  in  0"  30'  north  of  the  equator.  During  the  hottest  days  in  March  and 
April  the  glass  oscillates  between  7H^  and  HiJ*^  F.,  and  in  the  relatively  cool  months 
of  July  and  August  between  7'A'^  and  80"  V.  Hence  on  this  part  of  the  seaboard 
what  is  most  to  be  dreaded  is  not  so  much  the  actual  heat  as  the  great  quantity  of 
moisture  contained  in  the  atmosphere.  The  land  and  sea  breezes  alternate  with 
great  regularity,  the  former  usually  prevailing  from  eleven  v  twelve  o'clock  at 
night  till  the  first  hours  in  the  morning,  the  latter  from  aboui  eleven  o'clock  in 
the  forenoon  tiH  the  evening.  Tornadoes  occur  chiefly  during  the  early  rainy 
season,  and  nearly  always  at  night.  But  they  are  little  dreaded,  and  by  the 
Europeans  of  Libreville  are  even  hailed  with  rejoicings,  owing  to  their  cooling 
effect  on  the  atmosphere.  The  insalubrity  of  the  climate  is  greatly  increased  for 
the  whites  by  the  poisonous  exhalations  rising  from  the  morasses,  the  Ogoway, 
thanks  to  the  sandy  nature  of  its  bed,  being  in  this  respect  considered  less  dangerous 
than  the  Gaboon.  But  all  Europeans  alike  are  everywhere  Mibject  to  fever  and 
ulcers  in  the  legs,  the  two  maladies  sometimes  alternating. 

Flora  and  Fauna.         «  ;. 

The  flora  is  neither  so  rich  nor  so  varied  as  might  be  expected  in  such  an 
abundantly  watered  equatorial  region.  Vas  treeless  tracts  occur  in  some  parts  of 
the  territory,  the  absence  of  arboreal  v«f'  ■tr'tio'  b'  ing  largely  due  to  the  sandy 
character  of  the  soil.  In  the  Gaboon  . .,;  ntl  araconas  overtop  all  the  sur- 
rounding trees,  amongst  whi^h  are  sever;  "^  i  ids  of  palms  flourishing  spontaneously. 
The  cocoa-nut  and  all  other  industrial  ;\  ,,ats  of  the  torrid  zone  have  been  intro- 
duced by  the  missionaries,  bu'  mostly  without  any  practical  results.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  forest  species  which  contributed  to  the  export  trade  during  the 
early  period  of  the  occupation  have  lost  their  relative  value,  their  products  having 
to  be  brought  from  greater  distances  inland  since  the  exhaustion  of  the  supply 
from  the  woodlands  on  the  coast.  Thus  traders  no  longer  take  the  trouble  to 
export  the  "  red "  wood  {Baphia  nifida)  formerly  so  highly  prized,  and  some 
varieties  of  which  were  even  preferred  to  those  of  Brazil  by  dyers.  Ebony 
{Diospyros),  both  green  and  black,  is  still  collected  by  the  natives,  as  well  as 
caoutchouc,  although  the  liana  yielding  this  commodity  is  disappearing  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  stations.  In  general  the  indigenous  flora  is  poor  in  edible 
plants,  although  the  Okotas  of  the  Ogoway  basin  live  almost  exclusively  on  the 
large  green  fruit  of  the  dika,  which  abounds  in  their  forests. 

This  equatorial  region  has  become  famous  for  its  quadrumana  of  large  size, 
including  the  njina  (jina)  of  the  natives,  to  which  Europeans  have  given  the 
name  of  "  gorilla,"  originally  applied  by  Hanno  and  his  Carthaginian  companions 
to  certain  hairy  women  seen  by  them  on  the  west  coast  of  Africa.     The  domain  of 


fvn  cloud- 
;uently  in 

•e  of  about 
"  to  02"  at 
March  and 
ool  months 
16  seaboard 
[juantity  of 
(mate  with 
o'clock  at 
I  o'clock  in 
sarly  rainy 
nd  by  the 
eir  cooling 
Lcreased  for 
le  Ogoway, 
18  dangerous 
0  fever  and 


in  such  an 
)nie  parts  of 
o  the  sandy 
ill  the  sur- 
ontaneously. 
>  been  intro- 
ts.     On  the 
B  during  the 
Iiicts  having 
E  the  supply 
le  trouble  to 
i,  and  some 
ers.     Ebony 
),  as  well  as 
ng  from  the 
)or  in  edible 
sively  on  the 

>f  large  size, 
re  given  the 
)  companions 
'he  domain  of 


J  ^ 


*,^1 


^f^^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


iai2.e  12.5 

1^  lii  12.2 

2?  144  *" 

1*0  12.0 


m 


I 


Photo^aphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


^<i^Z^^ 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WnSTIR.N.Y.  145S0 

(716)  •72-4S03 


m 


-iMm^M^i^e^'ii^mM^iumm&t.y-i- 


^^* 


«' 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductlons  historiques 


FAUNA  OF  THE  OGOWAY  REGION. 


898 


this  formidable  anthropoid  ape  extends  from  the  San-Bcnito  to  the  Loango  ;  on 
the  upper  Ogoway  he  is  very  rare,  and  nowhere  met  in  the  Congo  basin,  although 
according  to  some  authorities  he  is  found  in  the  Niam-Niam  country.  He  was 
known  only  by  vague  reports  before  1847,  when  the  American  missionary  Savage 
discovered  a  skull  of  this  animal  in  the  Gaboon.  Some  ten  years  afterwards  Du 
Chaillu  met  and  hunted  the  terrible  apes  in  their  native  forests,  although  his 
descriptions  of  their  strength  and  ferocity  were  certainly  exaggerated.  From 
later  accounts  the  gorilla  appears  to  be  rather  a  timid  animal,  easily  tamed  if 
taken  young',  and  about  5  feet  high,  although  one  seen  by  M.  Ponel,  near  Bow^, 
had  a  height  of  no  less  than  5  feet  9  inches,  which  is  above  that  of  the  average 
European.  This  animal  has  disappeared  from  several  of  the  forests  where  he 
was  met  by  the  first  explorers,  and  is  no  longer  found  in  the  island  of  Cape 
Lopez. 

The  chimpanzee,  also  an  inhabitant  of  "West  Central  Africa,  occurs  especially 
in  the  Ogoway  and  Kwilu  basins,  but  rarely  in  the  vicinity  of  human  dwellings. 
Being  also  a  more  active  climber,  he  is  more  difficult  to  capture  than  the  gorilla, 
but  domesticated  with  equal  ease.  Of  the  chimpanzee  there  are  several  varieties, 
such  as  the  nshfego  mbuve  {Troglodytes  calvus),  who  builds  strong  nests  in  the 
trees,  and  the  kula  (kulu),  which  of  all  apes  appears  to  approach  nearest  to  the 
human  type.  The  Colobus  tholoni,  a  new  species  of  monkey,  has  also  been  dis- 
covered in  the  Ogoway  basin. 

In  the  western  districts  there  are  no  lions,  and  the  panthers  and  other  felida) 
seldom  attack  man.  The  elephant,  said  by  Du  Chaillu  to  be  a  distinct  species,  is 
withdrawing  to  the  interior,  so  that  ivory,  as  in  the  Cameroons,  is  becoming  an 
object  of  luxury  instead  of  regular  traffic.  The  animals  most  dreaded  by  the 
natives  are  the  buffaloes,  and  the  white-faced  wild-boar  [Potamochm'us  albifrons), 
which  leaps  streams  several  yards  wide  at  a  boimd.  The  hippopotamus  still 
abounds  in  the  rivers,  and  is  even  met  in  the  saline  estuaries  about  Cape  Lopez. 
The  crocodile  frequents  the  lagoons  of  Loango,  where  he  never  attacks  man.  In 
the  forests  dwell  numerous  rodents,  such  as  the  Kendo,  smallest  of  squirrels,  and 
the  Mboko  {Sciurus  ehorivorus),  which  gnaws  ivory. 

Here  have  been  found  several  new  species  of  birds,  reptiles,  fishes,  and  insects. 
Of  birds  the  most  remarkable  are  the  Chrysococcyx  miaragdineus,  all  burnished 
gold  with  emerald  tint,  and  the  Souimanga  magnificm,  a  merle  of  metallic  lustre 
rivalling  in  beauty  the  Senegambian  variety.  The  shondo,  a  fish  in  the  Ogoway, 
with  its  homy  beak  excavates  perfectly  regular  cup-shaped  spaces  in  which  its 
eggs  are  deposited.  In  the  shallows  of  the  island  of  Corisco  occurs  a  species  of 
proteus,  and  electric  fish  frequent  the  Kwilu  waters.  Most  of  the  snakes  appear 
to  be  venomous,  and  some  of  the  ants,  such  as  the  ferocious  bashikwe,  are  far  more 
dreaded  than  the  beasts  of  prey.  According  to  Compi^gne,  spiders,  almost 
unknown  in  the  Cameroons,  are  here  represented  by  "  an  incredible  number  of 
species ;"  but  the  great  scourge  of  the  country  is  the  jigger  (Pukx  penetrans) 
imported  from  Brazil. 


S'.t    A  r 


394 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Inhabitants. 

The  inhabitants  of  West  Kquatorial  Africa  consist  for  the  most  part  of  immi- 
grants from  the  east,  the  ceaseless  tides  of  migration  either  sweeping  away  the 
aborigines,  or  else  by  intermingling  with  them  fonning  fresh  ethnical  gronpa 
which  now  render  all  classification  impossible.  The  best  known  nation  are  the 
Mpongwes  (Pongos)  of  the  Gaboon,  whose  Bantu  language  is  by  far  the  most 
wiflelj'  diffused  throughout  these  coastlands.  It  has  been  carefully  studied  by 
the  missionaries  and  others,  who  speak  with  admiration  of  its  harmonious  sounds 
and  logical  structure.  Thanks  to  the  precision  of  the  rules  determining  the 
relations  of  roots  and  affixes,  all  ideas  may  be  expressed  with  surprising  accuracy, 
so  that  it  has  been  found  possible  to  translate  the  gospels  and  compose  several 
religious  works  without  borrowing  a  single  foreign  word.  The  Mpongwes,  who 
call  themselves  Ayogo,  or  "  the  Wise,"  possess  a  copious  collection  of  national 
songs,  myths,  and  traditions,  besides  which  the  elders  are  acquainted  with  the 
"  nidden  Words,"  a  sort  of  secret  language  of  unknown  origin.  Although  the 
transition  is  abrupt  between  Mpongwe  and  the  eastern  Bantu  idioms,  all  clearly 
belong  to  the  same  linguistic  stock,  and  fully  one-fifth  of  the  Mpongwe  vocabulary 
reappears  in  the  Swahili  of  the  east  coast.  '    • 

The  Mpongwes  proper  are  a  mere  fragment  of  a  fori  erly  powerful  nation, 
and  are  being  gradually  absorbed  by  the  immigrants  from  the  interior.  Those 
who  call  themselves  "  Children  of  the  Soil,"  and  who  were  distinguished  by  their 
physical  beauty,  are  slowly  disappearing,  carried  oft  by  small -pox,  consumption, 
scrofulous  affections,  and  the  pernicious  habit  of  smoking  liamba,  a  kind  of  hemp 
like  the  hashish  of  Eastern  peoples.  Those  grouped  round  the  Catholic  and 
Protestant  missions  call  themselves  Christians,  and  even  the  fetish- worshippers 
pell  their  sacred  groves  for  ardent  spirits.  All  are  intelligent,  but  without 
perseverance,  and  frivolous  boasters,  who  have  to  be  replaced  on  the  Government 
works  by  Kroomen  or  coolies  from  Senegambia. 

The  Benga  (Mbenga)  tribes  of  Corisco  Island  and  the  opposite  coast  speak  a 
distinct  Bantu  dialect,  nearly  related  to  that  of  the  Ba-Kale,  a  powerful  nation 
who  have  not  yet  reached  the  coast,  occupying  the  inland  forest  between  the 
Muni  and  Sette  Kama  rivers.  The  Ba-Kale,  wHose  chief  tribes  lie  south  of  the 
Ogoway,  are  said  to  number  about  one  hundred  thousand,  but  are  rapidly  diminish- 
ing, whole  clans  having  disappeared  within  a  generation  under  the  pressure  of 
the  inland  peoples  advancing  seawards.  Since  the  appearance  of  the  whites  in 
the  Ogoway  basin,  the  social  usages  of  the  Ba-Kale  have  been  considerably 
modified.  Formerly  warriors  and  hunters,  they  are  now  mostly  traders,  packmen, 
and  brokers,  monopolising  the  transit  traffic  about  the  lower  course  of  the  river ; 
their  I)i-Kele  language,  mixed  with  Mpongwe  elements,  has  become  the  chief 
medium  of  intercourse  among  the  riverain  jwpulations  as  far  as  the  first  cataracts. 
They  have  ceased  to  work  iron  and  copper,  and  now  obtain  by  barter  all  the 
European  arms  and  utensils  that  they  require. 

The  Ba-Ngwes,  who  dwell  some  60  miles  east  of  the  cataracts  between  the 


irt  of  immi- 
g  ttway  the 
lical  groups 
ion  are  the 
ar  the  most 
■  studied  by 
lious  sounds 
•mining   the 
ng  accuracy, 
ipose  several 
ongwes,  who 
of  national 
ted  with  the 
Although  the 
18,  all  clearly 
re  vocabulary 

?erful  nation, 
erior.  Those 
shed  by  their 

consumption, 
kind  of  hemp 

Catholic  and 
ih- worshippers 
,  but  without 
e  Government 

!  coast  speak  a 
owerful  nation 
st  between  the 
ie  south  of  the 
pidly  diminish- 
the  pressure  of 
f  the  whites  in 
in   considerably 
aders,  packmen, 
■se  of  the  river ; 
scome  the  chief 
le  first  cataracts. 
y  barter  all  the 

cts  between  the 


\: 


'^^'. 


lyiiiii   .tmiiifiiijiii^y 


wiiH(iliiiii»iiiiii  'I 


INIIAWTANTS  OF  THE  GABOON. 


895 


upper  and  lower  course  of  the  Ogowuy,  appear  to  be  the  only  peopli;  above  the 
]ia-Kale  territory  who  are  allied  to  them  in  speech.  All  the  rest,  except  the 
Fans,  speak  dialects  akin  to  those  of  the  Mpongwe  and  Benga  ethnical  groups. 
The  Ivili  of  the  Lower  Ogoway,  kinsmen  of  the  Ba-Vili  of  the  Ui)per  Ngunie 
basin,  are  a  mild,  industrious  people,  who  came  originally  from  the  south,  and 
are  now  increasing  rapidly  at  the  expense  of  their  neighbours.  They  appear  to 
be  distinct  from  the  Mpongwcs,  whose  language,  however,  they  have  adopted,  as 


i   '.. 


Fig.  190.— Inhabitants  of  the  Gaboon  and  Oooway  Basins. 

Scale  1  :  7,600.000. 


Deptlll 


otoew 

Feet. 


640  to  3.200 
Feet. 


8,200  Feet  and 
upwards. 


ISO  Milei. 


have  also  the  Ajtimas  of  Lake  Azingo.  The  Ba-Ngwes,  who  have  a  turn  for 
trade,  like  their  Ba-Kale  relatives,  but  who  are  less  degraded  by  contact  with  the 
whites,  appear  to  be  also  more  sedentary  and  conservative  of  the  old  tribal  usages. 
The  women,  who  are  of  herculean  strength,  are  distinguished  by  a  peculiar 
system  of  tattooing,  executed  in  relief  on  the  breast,  and  like  their  Okaiida  neigh- 
bours, all  the  Ba-Ngwes  are  passionately  fond  of  salt,  swallowing  it  by  handfuls,  as 
greedy  white  children  do  sugar. 


,.■ 


890 


WEST  AFRICA. 


The  Fans. 

Moat  of  the  region  east  of  tlie  Gaboon  and  north  of  the  Ogoway  is  now  held  by 
the  Fan  intruders,  who  have  driven  towards  the  south-west  all  the  other  indi- 
genous and  immigrant  populations.  When  the  French  first  settled  in  the  Gaboon 
the  Fans  were  almost  unknown,  although  so  early  as  1819  Bowditch  had  already 
mentioned  them  under  the  name  of  Paiimways,  describing  them  as  a  Fulah  people. 
Their  most  advanced  villages  were  at  that  time  still  restricted  to  the  hilly  inland 

Fig.  191.— Fan  Woman. 


■--f^ 


L 


plateaux  north  of  the  Ogoway  affluents ;  now  they  have  become  the  immediate 
neighbours  of  the  Mpongwes  of  Glass  and  Libreville  on  the  banks  of  the  Komo, 
stretching  north  to  the  confines  of  the  Ba- Tonga  territory,  while  south  of  the 
Gaboon  their  pioneers  have  already  reached  the  coast  at  several  points.  The  Syake 
Fans  occupy  the  zone  of  rapids  above  the  Ivindo ;  the  Osyebas  have  crossed  the 
middle  Ogoway,  and  others  have  even  penetrated  to  the  Rembo  Obenga  in  the  delta 
region.     Dreaded  by  all  their  neighbours,  the  Fans  are  at  present  a  rising  power, 


wiri^Vrii  •t-iii^ii 


"•ri'i'i^'fr'i"  i 


m^ 


TUE  FANS. 


807 


w  held  by 
-ther  indi- 
he  Gaboon 
ad  already 
lah  people, 
illy  inland 


!       V 


-v.- 


,.»*»iw.Af --rtfr-' 


the  immediate 
3  of  the  Komo, 
le  south  of  the 
its.  The  Syake 
ave  crossed  the 
mga  in  the  delta 

a  rising  power, 


who  become  undisputed  masters  wherever  they  present  themselves.  In  the  districts 
known  to  the  whites  their  numbers  are  estimated  at  two  hundred  thousand,  and 
since  the  middle  of  the  century  they  are  said  to  have  increased  threefold  both  by 
constant  immigration  and  by  the  natural  excess  of  births  over  the  mortality.  The 
future  of  French  influence  in  this  region  depends  mainly  on  the  relations  that  may 
be  established  between  the  whites  and  these  formidable  invaders,  all  other  peoples 
being  divided  into  a  multitude  of  detached  groups  incapable  of  any  serious  resistance. 

The  Fans,  that  is  to  say,  "  Men,"  are  known  by  many  other  names,  such  as 
Pahuin,  Pa-Mue,  Mpangwe  (not  to  be  confounded  with  Mpongwe),  Panwe, 
Fanwe,  and  within  French  territory  they  form  two  distinct  groups,  the  Ma-Kima 
of  the  Upper  Ogoway  and  the  Ma-Zuna  about  the  Gaboon,  speaking  different 
dialects  and  waging  a  deadly  warfare  against  one  another.  According  to  some 
authors  the  Fans  are  sprung  from  those  Jaggas,  who  in  the  seventeenth  century 
overran  the  kingdom  of  Congo,  and  the  vocabularies  collected  by  Wilson,  Lenz,  and 
ZoUer  prove  that  their  language  is  also  of  Bantu  stock,  more  allied  to  the  Benga 
than  to  the  Mpongwe,  but  spoken  with  a  verj-  guttural  pronunciation.  Anthropo- 
logists now  generally  believe  that  they  belong  to  the  same  family  as  the  Niam-Niams 
of  the  Upper  Welle  region,  from  whom  they  are  now  separated  by  an  intervening 
space  of  900  miles,  also  probably  inhabited  by  kindred  populations.  Both  present 
the  same  general  physical  appearance,  complexion,  stature,  features,  and  attitude ; 
both  file  the  incisors  to  a  point,  dress  the  hair  in  the  same  wa}',  use  bark  coverings, 
and  vegetable  dyes  for  painting  the  body.  The  chiefs  also  wear  leopard  skins,  and 
use  the  same  iron  dart — a  weapon  with  several  points  that  tears  the  flesh.  Blue 
glass  trinkets  and  cowries  are  prized  as  ornaments  by  both  nations,  who  also  breed 
hounds  of  the  same  species.  Lastly  both  are  decided  cannibals,  employing  the  word 
nia  in  the  same  sense  of  "  to  eat,"  so  that  the  Fans  would  seem  to  be  the  western 
division  of  the  great  Niam-Niam  race.  ,       ,. 

They  are  of  lighter  complexion  and  less  woolly  hair  than  the  Ogoway  coast 
tribes,  which  has  caused  some  ethnologists  to  regard  them  as  of  non-Negro 
stock.  The  men,  whose  only  occupation  is  fighting  and  hunting,  are  generally  tall 
and  slim,  but  very  muscular,  with  haughty  bearvg  and  defiant  look,  very  different 
from  the  obsequious  downcast  glance  of  the  G';C',cn  Negroes.  The  women,  who 
perform  all  the  household  and  agricultural  work,  soon  acquire  heavy  ungainly 
figures.  But  the  characteristic  trait  of  both  sexes  is  the  bulging  frontal  bone, 
forming  a  semicircular  protuberance  above  the  superciliary  arches.  The  young 
men  and  women  delight  in  personal  ornaments  of  all  sorts,  adding  cosmetics  to 
tatooing,  intertwining  the  hair  with  pearls,  foliage,  and  feathers,  encircling  neck 
and  waist  with  strings  of  cowries  and  china  buttons,  loading  the  calves  with  copper 
rings,  like  those  in  use  among  the  natives  of  East  Africa.  Some  of  the  women  are 
as  bedizened  as  any  fetish,  and  so  overladen  with  ornaments  as  to  render  locomotion 
almost  impossible.  But  when  they  have  to  mourn  the  death  of  a  chief  or  of  a  near 
relative  they  must  put  everything  aside,  and  appear  abroad  either  naked  or 
clothed  only  with  foliage  .md  bedaubed  with  yellow  or  greenish  ochre,  which  gives 
them  a  very  cadaverous  appearance. 


898 


WEST  AFRICA. 


k 


The  prnftioo  of  caiiiiibulism,  on  which  tho  unaniinous  testimony  of  the  first 
explorers  leaves  no  room  for  doubt,  a])peiirM  to  liavo  been  abandoned  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  coast.  In  the  interior,  jjrisoners  of  war  are  still  eaten,  but  the 
bancpiet  partakes  of  a  religious  cburacter,  being  enjoyed  in  a  sacred  hut  far  from 
the  eves  of  women  and  children,  the  object  being  to  acquire  tho  courage  of  tho 
enemv  bv  devouring  him.  Wizards  are  also  said  to  be  consumed  in  tho  same 
way,  and  on  many  occasions  slaves  would  appear  to  be  immolated  and  passed  from 
village  to  village  for  solemn  feasts.  Among  certain  tribes  the  old  alone  are 
privileged  to  touch  human  flesh,  which  is  fetish  for  all  others.  Thus  tho  custom 
seems  to  lie  gradually  falling  into  abeyance,  the  Fans  being  compelled,  like  other 
conquerors,  to  modify  their  usages  when  they  come  in  contact  with  different 
populations  and  become  subject  to  new  conditions  of  existence.  Formerly  hunters, 
they  have  now  mostly  taken  to  trade,  husbandry,  and  fluvial  navigation. 

Of  all  the  Gaboon  and  Ogoway  peoples,  the  Fans  are  the  most  energetic  and 
industrious.  They  are  skilled  forgers  and  ingenious  armourers,  who  have  dis- 
covered the  art  of  making  ebony  crossbows,  with  which  they  hunt  apes  and 
antelopes,  that  would  be  scared  by  the  report  of  firearms.  They  are  also  famous 
potters,  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  whites  have  become  the  best  gardeners, 
80  that  they  are  now  the  hope  of  the  colony.  Those  of  the  Komo  district,  still 
in  a  transition  state  between  the  nomad  hunting  and  settled  agricultural  life, 
take  care  always  to  provide  themselves  with  two  stations,  far  removed  one  from 
the  other.  They  have  a  riverain  settlement  well  situated  for  trade,  but  exposed 
to  the  attacks  of  warlike  flotillas,  and  a  village  in  the  forest  affording  a  refuge 
when  warned  in  time  by  the  tam-tam  or  the  ivory  trumpet  of  a  threatening 
danger.  The  riverain  hamlet  may  be  destroyed,  but  the  other  remains,  and  in 
that  are  preserved  all  their  valuables.  All  villages  are  disposed  so  as  to  guard 
against  sudden  surprise,  and  sentinels  are  always  stationed  at  both  ends  of  the 
street.  In  the  centre  stands  the  palaver  house,  where  the  warriors  assemble  to 
deliberate,  all  capable  of  bearing  arms  having  the  right  to  make  their  voice  heard 
in  the  assembl)'. 

In  the  hilly  region  about  the  Ogfoway,  Nyangai  and  Kwilu  headstreams,  dwell 
the  A-Shangos,  akin  to  the  Okandos  and  A-Shiras  of  the  Nguni^  and  Rembo 
basins.  According  to  Du  Chaillu,  although  darker  than  their  neighbours,  the 
A-Shiras  are  amongst  the  finest  and  most  intelligent  peoples  in  Africa.  But 
they  are  rapidly  decreasing,  partly  through  the  fearful  ravages  of  small-pox, 
partly  through  their  depraved  taste  for  the  use  of  liamba.  From  the  A-Shiro 
territory  comes  this  pernicious  drug,  which  with  alugii,  or  "  brandy,"  is  the  great 
"  civilising  medium  "  throughout  the  Gaboon  and  Ogoway  lands. 


The  A-Bongos,  Ma-Yombes,  and  Ba-Fyots. 

Scattered  amongst  the  A-Shango  forests,  and  farther  east  towards  the  great 
river,  are  the  frail  leafy  huts  of  the  pigmy  A-Bongos  (Obongo),  a  shy,  timid 
people   living  on  roots,   berries,  and   game.     They  are  the  O-Koas   (A-Koas), 


M'tlmik  \m»iii*%imii>iLmithmitikdmiim 


»f  the  firrtt 

tho  iieiph- 
--ii,  but  the 
ut  fur  from 
ni<ro  of  tho 
n  tho  same 
[)usscd  from 
I  alone  are 

iho  custom 
1,  like  other 
th  different 
srly  hunters, 
m. 

nergetio  and 
10  have  dis- 
mt  apes  and 
B  also  famous 
st  gardeners 

diptrict,  still 
icultural  life, 
ved.  one  from 
,  hut  exposed 
ding  a  refuge 
a  threatening 
imains,  and  in  . 
io  as  to  guard 
Ix  ends  of  the 
rs  assemhle  to 
eir  voice  heard 

istreams,  dwell 
i^  and  Rembo 
leighbours,  the 
1  Africa.  But 
3  of  small-pox. 
m  the  A-Shira 
y,"  is  the  great 


wards  the  great 
ro),  a  shy,  timid 
Koas   (A-Koas), 


-.Jim  nil  IIWI,!' 


11,   »i«i|!i'>lii  .1' 


THE  A-HONOOH. 


81)1) 


dost'ribi'd  by  Miirchc,  and  tlio  Hu-Hoii)»<»s  ho«'ii  by  Falkt'iiHtoiii  in  the  Lnungo 
diHtrift.  Accordinjf  to  J)u  4'haillii,  tho  A-H<tnf;(m  uro  of  n  yt»llowish  coniploxion, 
with  low  retreating  brow,  prominent  cheek  bones,  timid  glaneo,  hair  disposed  in 
littUi  frizzly  tut't«,  relatively  short  legs,  and  very  .sliort  stature.  Of  t-ix  women 
mcuHured  l)y  him,  the  tallest  was  5  feet,  the  shortest  4  feet  4  inches,  and  one  adult 
man  only  4  foet  (i  inches;  but  the  ()-Koas  seen  by  Marehe  on  the  Upper  Ogoway 
averaged  about  4  inches  taller.  They  are  divided  into  small  tribal  or  family 
groups,  dwelling  in  the  recesses  of  the  forests,  remote  from  all  beaten  tracts,  in  low 
leafv  huts,  scarcely  to  be  distinguished  from  the  surrounding  vegetation.  Their 
A-Shaugo  neighbours  treat  them  with  great  kindness,   almost  with  tenderness, 


Fi^.  102.— Thk  Banta  Laooon  and  Ua-Ldmbo  Cou:rT»Y. 

ScaU  1  :  9,400,000. 


4  '^'-'^f  ^'"v     .,#•■'    V 


\, 


Lsnof  Greenwich 


s  yrv 


5' 


Depths. 


Oto  80 
Feet 


80  Feet 
Bnd  npwnrdii. 


-  eovnee. 


and  when  any  of  their  women  appear  at  the  markets  they  are  laden  with  presents 
of  bananas  and  other  fruits.  In  the  Okanda  country  they  hunt  the  python  with 
assegais  and  eagerly  de\  our  its  flesh.  But  although  keeping  mostly  aloof  from 
the  surrounding  piHjpleB,  tne  A-Bongos  arc  gradually  adopting  their  usages. 

The  mixed  populations  dwelling  near  the  coast,  south  of  the  Nyanga  river, 
and  collectively  known  as  Bu-Lumbos  or  Ba-Vilis,  consist  largely  of  runaway 
slaves  from  the  Gaboon  and  Congo  factories,  who  have  taken  refuge  on  this 
inhospitable  seaboard,  whdre  they  are  sheltered  from  attack  by  the  surf -beaten 
shore  and  surrounding  swamps  and  forests.  By  alliances  with  the  aborigines 
they  have  foimed  fresh  ethnical  groups,  which,  however,  differ  little  in  their 
customs  from  the  neighbouring  Ba-Yahas  in  the  interior.    Like  them  they  suspend 


'- 


400 


WEST  AFRICA. 


the  dead  to  trees,  and  keep  powerful  fetishes,  which  forbid  the  women  to  eat  goat 
or  game,  and  command  them  to  till  the  laud  and  to  obey  their  husbands  in  all 
things.  The  Bu-Lumbos  still  shrink  from  contact  with  the  whites,  still  remem- 
bering the  days  of  the  slave-trade.  Their  chief  industry  is  the  preparation  of 
salt,  which  they  obtain  from  the  sea-water  by  means  of  artificial  heat,  and  export 
it  to  the  Ba-Yahas,  who  prefer  it  to  the  European  article. 

The  Ma-Yombes  of  the  K^vilu  basin  and  neighbouring  Portuguese  territory 
are  grouped  in  numerous  republics  or  chieftaincies,  some  comprising  a  single 
village,  others  forming  confederations  of  several  communities.  For  centuries  they 
have  maintained  direct  relations  with  the  Portuguese  traders,  from  whom  they 
hive  learnt  to  build  h-^uses  in  the  European  style.  But  the  influence  of  the 
whites  disappears  rapidly  in  the  direction  of  the  east  beyond  the  coast  ranges, 
which  have  only  in  recent  years  been  crossed  by  explorers.  Here  dwell  the  Ba- 
Kunyas,  Ba-Kambas,  and  others,  regarding  whom  the  strangest  reports  were  long 
current  amongst  the  Ma-Yombes.  Some  were  dwarfs,  others  giants,  or  one-aimed 
or  one-legged,  or  else  people  with  tails,  which  when  they  sat  down  were  inserted, 
in  holes  in  the  ground.  Possibly  there  may  have  been  some  foundation  for  the 
statement  that  one  of  their  kings  never  rose  from  his  couch  except  by  the  aid  of 
two  spears  which  pierced  the  breasts  of  two  wretches  daily  devoted  to  death. 

In  the  district  between  the  Kwilu  and  the  Congo  dwell  the  Ba-Fj-^ots,  or  Ba- 
Fyorts,  who  claim  to  be  much  more  civilised  than  the  surrounding  barbarous 
tribes,  and  who  appear  to  form  the  transition  between  the  Bantus  of  the  Gaboon 
and  those  of  the  Congo.  In  the  sixteenth  and  first  half  of  the  seventeenth 
century  the  whole  region  bounded  north  by  the  Kwilu  formed  part  of  the  empire 
of  the  M/unia,  or  "  great  father,"  king  of  the  Congo.  But  the  imperial  power 
was  represented  by  lieutenants  (muerte,  mnni-fuma),  who  gradually  asserted  their 
independence.  Thus  were  founded  the  kingdoms  of  Loango,  Eakongo,  and 
Ngoyo,  which  again  became  subdivided  into  autonomous  territories,  each  with  its 
chief,  assisted  by  ministers  and  a  council  of  elders.  After  the  king's  death,  his 
obsequies  were  deferred  for  several  years,  the  power  during  the  interregnum 
being  entrusted  to  the  ma-boma,  or  "  master  of  terror."  It  is  related  that  at  the 
last  death  the  people  were  too  poor  to  worthily  celebrate  the  funeral  rites,  and 
that  consequently  he  was  left  unburied.  He  is  supposed  still  to  live,  the  actual 
chiefs  being  officially  regarded  as  simple  delegates  or  viceroys.  Several  bear 
Portuguese  names,  and  are  t^arrounded  by  officials  with  titles  and  functions 
recalling  the  influence  formerly  exercised  by  the  representatives  of  the  Court  of 
Lisbon. 

Even  certain  Christian  practices  have  survived,  such  as  processions  headed  by 
the  crucifix,  and  baptism,  followed  however  by  circumcision.  Nzambi,  the  great 
god  or  goddess  of  the  Ba-Fyots,  is  mostly  confounded  with  Sa-Manuelu,  the 
Madonna,  or  with  the  "  Earth,"  mother  of  all.  The  native  theologians  have  also 
a  sort  of  trinity,  Nzambi,  mother  of  the  Congo,  being  associated  with  her  son  in 
the  government  of  the  universe,  while  a  third  person,  Deisos,  takes  part  in  the 
direction  of  human  affairs.     The  goddess  is  represented  by  the  most  venerated  of 


itt^-n^t^  umnatft! 


■Wjiiff. 


THE  BA-PYOTS. 


401 


1  to  eat  goat 
bands  in  all 
still  remem- 
eparation  of 
and  export 

ese  territory 
ing  a  single 
Bnturies  they 
1  whom  they 
uence  of  the 
coast  ranges, 
iwell  the  Ba- 
irts  were  long 

or  one-anned 

were  inserted 
dation  for  the 

by  the  aid  of 
to  death. 

Fyots,  or  Ba- 
ing  barbarous 
of  the  Gaboon 
16  seventeenth 
t  of  the  empire 
imperial  power 
r  asserted  their 

Eakongo,  and 
s,  each  with  its 
ing's  death,  his 
le  interregnum 
ited  that  at  the 
neral  rites,  and 

live,  the  actual 
.     Several  bear 

and  functions 
of  the  Court  of 


all  fetishes,  who  punishes  with  death  those  guilty  of  eating  forbidden  meats, 
possibly  a  reminiscence  of  the  Christian  fasts.  Every  prayer  addressed  to  the 
fetish  is  clenched  by  a  nail  buried  in  the  body  of  the  wooden  effigy,  and  it  must 
sink  deep  and  cause  even  a  painful  wound,  so  that  the  goddess  pay  duo  heed  to 
her  humble  votary's  supplication.  So  recently  as  1870  human  sacrifices  were  still 
made  at  the  burial  of  a  prince,  and  in  1877  a  witch  wns  burned  in  front  of  the 
European  factories  at  Cabinda. 

The  Btt- Fyots,  called  by  the  Portuguese  Cabinda  or  Cabenda,  from  the  trading 

PijC.  193.-A  Cabinda.  * 


\  .,.^ 


isions  headed  by 
zambi,  the  great 
Ja-Manuelu,  the 
ogians  have  also 
with  her  son  in 
ikes  part  in  the 
lost  venerated  of 


Htation  some  36  miles  north  of  the  Congo  mouth,  are  skilful  boatmen,  who  build 
the  so-called  palhahoten,  substantial  seaworthy  craft,  with  which  they  carrj'  on  a 
coast  trade  along  the  seaboard  from  the  Gaboon  to  Mossamedes.  Like  the  Kroo- 
men,  they  also  take  temporary  service  in  the  factories  or  on  board  the  European 
vessels.  They  are  also  excellent  masons,  cooks,  and  tailors,  constituting  in  the 
southern  Portuguese  possessions  a  large  part  of  the  artisan  population.  It  is  note- 
worthy  that  amongst  the   Cabindas  infant  mortality  is   almost  unknown,  the 


my  m'  'I:.'*!-;;:  i';.jj»i<,"i't^'fi»ty/pf|Mw*';'4i;ig,ij  ■ 


402 


WEST  AFRICA. 


u 


children  being  entirely  exempt  from  rickets  and  the  numerous  other  maladies  that 
sweep  off  so  many  in  civilised  lands. 

In  these  equatorial  regions  the  interior  is  henceforth  opened  to  European 
enterprise,  and  the  natives,  who  till  recently  took  no  part  in  international  trade, 
tnay  now  exchange  their  gums  and  ivory  for  European  wares.  But  without 
systematic  cultivation  of  the  soil  the  French  possessions  can  have  no  economic 
value.  They  will  become  mere  military  settlements  surrounded  by  a  few  groups 
of  factories  and  missionary  stations,  and  useful  for  keeping  open  the  communica- 
tions with  the  interior.  Hitherto  no  symptoms  can  be  detected  of  any  great  social 
change,  exctspt  that  the  Mpongwes  are  being  gradually  displaced  by  the  more 
industrious  and  more  intelligent  Funs.  But  apart  from  trade,  with  all  its  attendant 
evils,  the  civilising  oiluiis  uf  iLe  wliltea  have  borne  so  little  fruit  that  a  serious 
beginning  has  apparently  still  to  be  made.  What  has  most  to  be  dreaded  is  the 
employment  of  force,  which  in  a  single  day  would  undo  the  work  already  accom- 
plished in  the  Ogoway  and  Alima  basins  by  the  patience  and  forbearance  of  M. 
Brazza  and  his  associates. 


TOPOGRAPHT. 

North  of  the  Gaboon  estuary  there  are  no  settlements  beyond  a  few  factories 
and  missionary  establishments  ubyut  the  mouths  of  the  San-Benito  and  other 
rivers.  The  largest  centre  of  native  population  is  found  in  the  Spanish  island  of 
Corisco,  that  is,  "Lightning,"  so  named  from  the  thunderstorms  here  witnessed  by 
the  first  Portuguese  navigators.  Corisco  is  a  flat  island  about  6  square  miles  in 
extent,  forming  a  louthern  continuation  of  Cape  St.  John,  and  inhabited  by  about 
one  thousand  Mbeugas,  over  a  fourth  of  whom  have  been  taught  to  read  and  write 
by  the  Protestant  and  Catholic  missionaries  stationed  amongst  them.  No  European 
traders  reside  on  the  island,  the  attempts  made  by  the  Dutch  in  1879  to  make  it  a 
commercial  settlement  having  failed.  Great  Elobey  also,  lying  to  the  north-east 
near  the  head  of  the  bay,  has  been  abandoned  to  the  natives,  the  foreign  dealers 
confining  themselves  to  Little  Elobey,  an  islet  half  a  square  mile  in  extent  lying 
nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Muni.  From  this  point  they  are  able  to  super- 
intend and  communicate  with  their  factories  on  the  coast,  for  Little  Elobov  lies  in 
smooth  water,  sheltered  by.  Corisco  and  Great  Elobey  from  the  Atlantic  surf.  The 
only  inhabitants  are  the  European  traders  with  their  agents  and  Kroo  domestics, 
who  are  supplied  with  provisions  by  the  Mbengas  of  Great  Elobey.  The  islet 
enjoys  a  healthy  climate,  and  serves  as  a  health  resort  for  the  whites  engaged,  on 
the  mainland.  Officially  all  these  islands  depend  on  the  government  of  Fernando- 
Po,  but  this  political  connection  appears  to  be  little  better  than  a  fiction,  the 
sovereign  power  being  unrepresented  by  a  single  Spanish  sentinel.  The  factories 
also  nearly  all  belong  to  Hamburg  merchants,  paying  neither  imports  nor  customs 
to  Spain.  •  ;      v'      ;  ^  .. ..  . 

Libreville,  capital  of  the  French  possessions,  so  named  from  the  emancipated 
slaves  settled  here  in  1849,  lies  on  the  north  side  of  the  Gaboon  estuary,  on  a 


T.IBREVILLE. 


408 


maladies  that 

to  European 
lational  trade, 
But  without 
no  economic 
T  a  few  groups 
le  communica- 
IV  great  social 
by  the  more 
1  its  attendant 
that  a  serious 
dreaded  is  the 
already  accom- 
bearance  of  M. 


a  few  factories 
nito  and  other 
panish  island  of 
ire  witnessed  by 
square  miles  in 
labited  by  about 
3  read  and  write 
I.   No  European 
?79  to  make  it  a 
to  the  north-east 
3  foreign  dealers 
5  in  extent  lying 
re  able  to  super- 
tie  Elobey  lies  in 
lautic  surf.    The 

Kroo  domestics, 
obey.  The  islet 
lites  engaged,  on 
ent  of  Femando- 
an  a  fiction,  the 
1.  The  factories 
ports  nor  customs 

the  emancipated 
aon  estuary,  on  a 


terrace  dominated  by  the  Bouet  and  Baudin  hills  to  the  north.  Although  con- 
taining no  more  than  fifteen  hundred  inhabitants — French  and  other  wliites, 
Senegalese,  Kroomen,  and  Mpongwes — Tiibreville  is  scattered  over  a  space  of  about 
four  miles  along  the  roadstead.  Here  is  a  Catholic  establishment,  where  over  a 
hundred  children  are  tnught  various  trades,  and  also  cultivate  extensive  cocoa-nut, 
oil-palm,  and  other  plantations,  serving  as  a  sort  of  nursery  for  the  whole  region 
between  the  Niger  and  Congo  mouths.  At  the  opposite  extremity  of  Libreville 
lies  the  American  missionary  station  of  Bamka,  where  instruction  has  now  to  be 
»givcn  in  French,  the  official  language  of  the  colony.  Near  it  are  the  factories  of 
Glass,  mostly  belonging  to  foreigners,  and  much  more  important  than  the  French 

Fig.  1?1.     Coi:kco  E.;t. 
SoaiR  1  :  800,000. 


otoie 
Fmt. 


Deptbi. 


16  toss 

FNt. 


88  Feet  and 
upwards. 


,  ISMilM. 


houses.  Notwithstanding  its  great  political  value  since  the  acquisition  of  the 
Ogoway  basin  and  the  foundation  of  the  Congo  Free  State,  Libreville  is  far  from 
being  a  source  of  profit  to  France,  the  revenue  derived  from  a  few  taxes  and 
import  dues  scarcely  representing  one-fourth  of  the  annual  outlay. 

But  notwithstanding  its  present  restricted  commerce,  there  can  be  no  doubt 
that  Libreville  must  sooner  or  later  become  a  great  centre  of  international  trade 
Not  only  is  it  the  natural  emporium  for  all  the  produce  of  the  Komo  and  Romboe 
basins,  but  through  the  latter  river  it  also  commands  the  route  to  the  Ogoway. 
As  soon  as  a  railway  or  even  u  carriage  road  is  opened,  all  the  traffic  of  this  basin 
above  the  Ngunie  confluence  must  flow  to  the  Gaboon  estuary.     But  meantime 


Mii 


404 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Libreville  has  scarcely  any  value  except  as  the  centre  of  the  military  power. 
Besides  the  gardens  attached  to  the  Catholic  mission,  the  only  great  plantation 
in  the  neighbourhood  is  that  of  Sibanghe,  founded  10  miles  farther  north  by  a 
German  house. 

Above  the  delta  one  of  the  first  permanent  European  stations  on  the  Ogoway 
is  Lamharhi^,  situated  at  the  converging  point  of  the  natural  highways  leading 


t 
I; 

If- 


(■;./ 


2; 


Fig.  105.— Elobet  Islands. 
Boalel:6(M)00. 


Depths. 


lefeptuid 
npwarda. 


MOOTardi 


in  one  direction  to  the  Ngunio  valley,  in  the  other  to  the  Gaboon  estuary.  Here 
also  are  some  factories  and  a  Catholic  mission.  Higher  up,  above  an  American 
mission  and  not  far  from  the  first  cataracts,  lies  the  village  of  NJofe,  which  has 
been  chosen  as  the  chief  town  in  the  Ogoway  basin.  It  stands  on  an  islet  in  mid- 
stream and  is  held  by  a  garrison  of  about  forty  native  troops.  Farther  on  follow 
Okota,  Ashuka,  near  Lop4,  a  much- frequented   fair,  Buiyi  and  Lmtourtviik,  so 


'tiacsfc-i  j*.,-'«^  >.A^  uiif-i'Hwi'ftr'.  V  ■'i**^/'>'i:«  iv'lA':.i. .; 


%' 


1  ."■!.%«*:■.;-,•■ 

"  "     .ilLililT 


A 


FRANCEVILLE. 


405 


named  from  the  explorer  who  here  perished.  Beyond  the  post  of  Dume,  and  not 
far  from  the  Ma-Poko  falls,  Franceville,  central  station  for  the  interior  exploration, 
has  been  founded  in  the  Passa  valley,  near  the  village  of  ^gimi,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river.  From  this  point  runs  the  route,  50  miles  long,  leading  across  a 
rolling  plateau  to  the  navigable  river  Alima,  and  thence  through  the  stations  of 
DiH^,  Leketi,  and  Pombo  to  the  Congo. 

South  of  Cape  St.  Catherine  over  fifty  factories  follow  along  the  coast  to  the 


Fig.    196.— LiBBKTItLli  AND  MoUTH  OF  THE  QaBOON. 
Soale  1 :  240,000. 


otoie 

Feet. 


Deptha. 


16  to  as 

Feet. 


■•-V  •■^•■iw--^/.i^.'.- 


39  Feet  and 
upwards. 

,6  Mile*. 


mouth  of  the  Congo.  The  most  important  north  of  Loango  is  Ma-Tumba,  lying 
on  a  strip  of  sand  between  the  sea  and  the  Banya  lagoon,  and  chief  depot  for  the 
gums  collected  in  the  neighbouring  forests  by  the  surrounding  Ba-Vili,  Ba-Lumbo 
and  Ba-Yaka  tribes.  Here  every  river  mouth  or  estuary  has  its  factory,  that  of 
the  Kwilu  being  situated  on  the  island  of  Reia.  A  group  of  sheds  on  the  left 
bank  of  this  river  is  already  dignified  with  the  name  of  town,  being  destined  by 
the  International  African  Association  as  the  starting-point  of  the  route  laid  down 


406 


WEST   AFEICA. 


from  the  coast  to  the  Congo  ulong  u  line  of  stations  which,  if  tliey  do  not  yet  exist, 
are  at  least  indicated  on  tho  rnHps,  Tlie  throe  chief  ports  founded  by  the  French 
on  taking  possession  of  this  valley  are  Nian'-Bf/birciK/r,  on  the  upper  course  of  the 
Kwilu,  Niari  Ltt-Dima,  at  the  confluence  of  the  river  of  like  name,  and  Nyotti, 
standing  on  a  prominent  blutf  in  the  reg;ion  of  the  cataracts.  Doubtless  this  route 
must  one  day  acquire  great  commercial  importance,  but  this  cannot  bo  till  u 
carriage    road    has    been    constructed,   the   Kwilu   itself  not  being  navigable. 


? 


i: 


Fig.  197.— Ma-Poko  Falm  on  thk  Uppkb  Oooway. 
Scale  1  :  17,000. 


360  Yards. 


Recently  M.  Cholet  made  the  journey  in  twenty-five  days  from  the  coast  to 
Brazzaville. 

At  present  all  the  traffic  of  this  region  is  carried  on  through  the  port  of 
Loango  (Buala),  an  old  city  till  recently  claimed  by  Portugal,  but  now  assigned  to 
France.  In  the  days  of  its  prosperity,  when  it  was  capital  of  a  province  of  tho 
Congo  empire,  Loango  was  said  to  have  a  population  of  fifteen  thousand ;  at 
present  it  is  less  a  town  than  a  group  of  factories  surrounded  by  chimbeques,  that 
is,  hovels  constructed  of  raphia  stems  and  "  Loango  grass,"  or  papyrus.  At  this 
jwint  the  shore-line  curves  round  to  the  west,  thus  sheltering  the  roadstead  from 


»'vinii(»jiii|i»ii 


LOANGO. 


•107 


not  yet  exist, 
y  the  French 
course  of  the 
,  and  Nyotii, 
i'H8  this  route 
not  be  till  u 
g  uavigublo. 


1 


J« 


ra  the  coaat  to 

gh  the  port  of 
now  assigned  to 
I  province  of  the 
m  thousand ;  at 
chitnheques,  that 
ipyriis.  At  this 
!  roadstead  from 


the  prevailing  winds.  Goods  cuu  accordingly  bo  hmded  here  more  easily 
than  at  any  other  place,  and  on  this  protected  beach  have  been  founded  a  number 
of  English,  French,  Portuguese,  Spaninii,  Dutch,  and  (Jermau  factories.  lu  the 
neighbouring  village  of  Loangiri  is  seen  the  necropolis  of  the  old  kings  of  Loango, 
which  was  formerly  enclosed  by  a  barrier  of  elephants'  tusks.  Tlio  royal  burial- 
])lace  at  Lafni  is  indicated  by  fetishes  carved  iu  wood,  and  those  who  are  destined 
one  day  to  bo  deposited  in  this  shrine  must  not  penetrate  within  its  precincts 
during  their  lifetime,  as  such  a  visit  would  be  the  herald  of  approaching  death. 
Ponta  Negra  ("Black  F'oint,")  about  18  miles  farther  south,  occupies  a  position 

Fig.    198.  — FUA.NCEVILLK.  ; 

Scale  1 :  126.000. 


55' 


'vi-.-. 


^"^^ 


i^ 


:'i-:f.^'^^ 


^- 


VtumiKiti, 


'^/. 


"^  ,'''*  Madouma 


IS-so- 


b  astoruraenwich 


mm 


I5°55- 


8}  Mliei. 


analogous  to  that  of  Loango,  for  here  also  the  strand  develops  a  semicircle  round 
a  tranquil  bay,  on  which  several  factories  have  likewise  been  established.  Beyond 
this  point  follow  the  factories  of  Ataasabi,  the  first  within  Portuguese  territory, 
and  a  little  farther  on  the  station  of  Shins/wsho,  former  headquarters  of  the 
Gciman  explorers  connected  with  the  Loango  expedition.  In  order  to  protect 
ilielr  warehouses  from  plunderers,  the  traders  have  proclaimed  them  "  fetish," 
giving  the  natives  to  understand  that  the  terrible  god  of  the  whites  lies  concealed 
behind  the  brandy  casks  and  bales  of  cotton. 

The  port  of  Landana,  more  than  a  mile  to  the  south  of  the  Shi- Loango,  or 


MNI 


408 


WEST  AFRICA. 


"  Little  Loango  "  river,  is  comprised  within  the  Portxigiiese  enclave,  which  is 
limited  on  one  side  by  the  French  posHcssions,  on  the  other  by  the  new  Congo 
State.  It  is  one  of  the  pleasantcst  places  on  the  whole  coast,  embowered  in  the 
graceful  foliage  of  the  palms,  above  which  rise  the  red  sandstone  cliffs  of  the 


Fig.  199.— Mouth  of  thb  Kwilu 

8o:il«  I  :  !)fX),non. 


:,.)>,.'*    '^, .'.'  •• ,'     ■•'  I 


.    ,  »• •    ■■■^-/  Vii    •'      '  '  •   ••  •   •       .  V    •■      •• 


-^fe>^/. 


•     •      ••  •  .    ••  .       VIIUMm'i'":.  v/ 


ir^o' 


East  of  Green  wich 


ll"ro' 


Depth. 


otoie 

Feet. 


.  6  MUea. 


Iff"- 


seaboard.  Round  the  Catholic  mission  stretch  magnificent  gardcua  uud  the  finest 
orange  groves  in  equatorial  Africa ;  but  the  climate  is  unfortunately  rendered 
malarious  by  a  lagoon  fringed  with  a  border  of  eucalyptus  introduced  from 
Australia.     The   trade   of  Landana  and   of  its  neighbour,  Malemba   {Molembo), 


~'sr',tj!s-^!,v 


mmnms^aaf 


ive,  which  is 
e  new  Congo 
owered  in  the 
5  cliffs  of  the 


LAN  DANA. 


409 


I'onMists  chiefly  in  ptilm-oil  and  nuts.  At  u  time  when  ivory  wuh  more  nhundunt 
thun  at  present,  the  natives  of  this  dintrict  disphiyed  remarkable  artistic  nkill  and 
taste  in  embellishing  the  tusks  with  sculptures  disposed  in  spirals,  like  the  bas- 
relief  of  Trajan's  coliuun,  and  representing  processions,  buttles,  and  treaties  of 


^ 


Fig.    200.— POETUOUKSE   P088EHMONB   NOBTII   OK   THK   CONOO. 
Soala  1  :  l,MX),oao. 


.E>a>if.G'-««"w'cW 


l8"30' 


Depth!. 


OtoS3 
Feet. 


Ks  to  aaa 

Feet. 


820  to  1,600 
Feet. 


l.AOO  Feet  and 
upwards. 


,  30  Hilei. 


ens  and  the  finest 
tuna*ely  rendered 
s  introduced  from 
ilemba   {Molembo), 


peace.     Some  of  the   figures  are   very  curious,   reproducing  whites  of  various 
nationalities  with  singular  fidelity  and  a  delicate  touch  of  humour. 

Cabinda,  no  less  picturesque  than  liandana,  stands  on  a  more  capacious  bay, 
where  vessels  can  ride  at  anchor  under  shelter  from  the  south  and  south-west 
winds.     Thanks  to  the  industry  of  its  enterprising  inhabitants,  Cabinda  has  become 

90— AF 


■'^^mmsmm 


mmm 


410 


WEST  AFRICA. 


a  very  busy  wa|M)rt,  and  althiiu)j;)i  lyinj^  hoiiui  'M')  miles  north  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Conj^o,  it  iH  ulrotwly  one  of  the  rnircpofs  for  the  conmioroe  of  tlitit  Ixisin.  ItH  diief 
factory  is  the  centro  for  nil  tho  Uritish  trado  hotwci'ii  the  (iah(K)n  estuary  and 
lioandu.  Porn  driDiilf,  tlic  hirjifost  viUajje  in  Portuguese  territory,  is  dlNprrscd 
amon^  the  bananas  and  f^anUms  stretcliinjj;  along  tho  coast  south  of  Cabinda.  One 
of  its  bandets  was  capital  of  the  former  kingdom  of  Ngoyo.  A  part  of  tho  local 
trade  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Mu-Vund)us,  a  people  of  grave  und  solemn  aspect,  with 
intelligent  eyes,  straight  or  oven  acpiiline  nose,  whose  pronounced  Semitic  tyju) 
has  eaniod  for  them  the  Portuguese  designation  of  Judios  jtreton,  or  "  lUack  .lews." 
Thoy  may  certuiidy  be  regarded  as  of  Jewish  oriq^n,  if  tlio  statement  be  true  thot 
they  aro  strict  observers  of  the  sabbath,  abstaining  even  from  all  conversation  on 
that  day.  According  to  the  natives,  the  Ma-Vumbus  were  expressly  created  by 
God  to  punish  other  mortals  by  reducing  them  to  poverty. 

According  to  tho  provisional  administration  recently  bestowed  on  them,  the 
Portuguese  possessions  lying  north  of  the  Congo  are  attached  to  the  province  of 
Angola,  constituting  a  special  district  with  the  territories  beyond  the  ("ongo  as 
far  as  Ambriz.  Cabinda  is  the  capital  of  this  district,  which  is  divided  into  tho 
two  northern  circumscriptions  of  Cabinda  and  Landana. 


MIuili.j,ll.j,JU.J,HilJlWi.iJ 


■  *iiTii'SiS#  ■rft'tSpfenwI^-.iff^y.S^rt.' 


mouth  of  the 
Hn.     ItM  chief 

estuary  an<l 
,  Ih  (linporwHl 
ubindu.     One 

of  tho  local 
II  iispoct,  with 

Sciuitic  \y\w 
Black  Jews." 
t  ho  true  that 
mverHution  on 
ily  croutcd  by 

on  them,  the 
10  province  of 

the  Congo  as 
vidcd  into  the 


CHAPTER  Xr. 

congo  ua81n. 
General  Survey. 

HE  ^'I'eat  river  whoso  waters  colour  tho  son  far  beyond  the  Cubinda 
coast,  takes  its  rise  thousands  of  miles  from  its  mouth  o;i  the 
Atlantic,  its  farthest  headstreams  having  their  source  much  nearflr 
the  Indian  than  the  Western  Ocean.  During  its  long  course, 
describing  a  vast  semicircle  through  the  interior  of  the  continent, 
it  receives  diverse  names  from  the  riverain  populations,  all,  however,  having 
probably  the  same  meaning  of  "  Moving  Sea,"  or  "  Great  Water."  The  first 
navigators  hailed  it  as  the  Poderoso,  or  "  Mighty  Stream,"  but  afterwards  learnt 
from  the  natives  the  term  Zaire  (Nzadi),  still  current  amongst  the  Portu- 
guese. 

After  his  memorable  expedition  across  the  continent,  Stanley  proposed  the  name 
of  Livingstone  in  honour  of  his  illustrious  forerunner ;  but  the  proposition  was 
not  adopted,  and  the  name  of  Congo,  which  was  also  that  of  the  empire,  which  in 
tho  sixteenth  century  comprised  a  portion  of  the  western  basin,  has  finally  prevailed 
in  geographical  nomenclature.  Tho  same  name  has  also  been  taken  by  the  recently 
founded  State,  whose  frontiers  have  already  been  traced,  partly  in  the  presumed 
direction  of  the  water-partings,  or  along  the  course  of  the  river  itself  or  of  its 
aiiiuents,  partly  according  to  the  meridians  and  parallels  of  latitude.  But  a  great 
part  of  the  vast  domain  thus  defined  on  the  map  of  Africa  still  remains  to  be 
discovered,  while  the  course  of  the  great  artery  itself  has  been  known  only  for  a 
few  years. 

During  the  three  centuries  following  their  first  discoveries  on  the  African 
seaboard,  the  Portuguese  acquired  a  detailed  knowledge  only  of  the  immediate 
coastlands.  Nevertheless  numerous  expeditions  had  been  sent  inland,  both  in 
search  of  gold  and  to  bring  the  inhabitants  under  the  sway  of  the  king  of  I'ortugal 
and  also  to  discover  that  mysterious  "  Prester  John  "  who  had  beoii  vainly  sought 
in  the  heart  of  Asia.  During  these  expeditions  it  was  ascertained  that  the  Zaire 
had  its  rise  in  the  depths  of  Africa,  and  that  great  lakes  existed  about  the  region 


•■'r-T-ffi^iii  .i86hi)j>^»,iyiiy48^j|iati|iii;)j|(j( 


412 


WEST  AFMCA. 


of  its  sources.  But  at  this  period  no  maps  were  able  to  give  any  detailed  outline 
of  the  course  of  the  river,  and  the  tracings  reproduced  on  the  globes  endeavoured 
to  harmonise  the  definite  statements  of  the  Portuguese  explorers  with  the  African 
legends  and  classical  traditions  of  Ptolemv.  Thus  Jofto  de  Barros  holds  as  certain 
that  the  Zaire  flows  from  the  largest  lake  in  Africa,  which  is  itself  "  the  mysterious 
head  of  the  Nile  ;  "  and  Duarte  Lopez  also  assigns  the  same  origin  to  both  rivers. 
Even  in  the  maps  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  same  false  ideas  hold  their  ground, 

Fi^.  201.— Apbioa,  accoedino  to  Homann,  im  1711. 
Scale  1  :  90,000,000. 


Wi 


iOli 


Mgndianof  breenwicK  0' 


.  1,800  Milet. 


although  Mercator  had  already  in  1541  regularly  limited  the  two  fluvial  basins  by 
their  water-partings. 

The  era  of  scientific  exploration  in  the  Tipper  Congo  basin  begins  towards  the 
close  of  the  last  century  with  the  expedition  of  Jose  de  Lacerda  e  Almeida,  who  in 
1798  penetrated  from  Mosiimbique  to  the  region  of  the  great  lakes.  In  1806  a  more 
fortunate  expedition  was  made  by  some  pombeiros,  or  caravansmen,  right  across  the 
continent  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Indian  Ocean.  But  of  the  route  followed  little 
is  known  beyond  the  fact  that,  after  passing  the  great  Kwango  affluent,  they 
traversed  the  southern  slope  of  the  Congo  basin  as  fur  as  Laeevda's  surveys  in  the 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  CONGO. 


418 


letailed  outline 
68  endeavoured 
ith  the  African 
lolds  as  certain 
the  mysterious 
to  both  rivers, 
d  their  ground, 


40 


30* 


ro  fluvial  basins  by 

begins  towards  the 
e  Almeida,  who  in 
es.  In  1806  a  more 
len,  right  across  the 
route  followed  little 
ango  affluent,  they 
•da's  surveys  in  the 


lake  region,  whence  they  reached  the  Zambese.  In  1843,  the  Portuguese  Gra^a 
penetrated  from  the  west  coast  to  the  Upper  Eassai  Valley  in  the  territory  of  the 
Muata-Jamvo.  But  the  first  decisive  journey  in  any  region  within  the  Congo 
basin  was  that  made  in  1857-8  by  Burton  and  Speke  to  the  east  side  of  Tangan- 
yika, without,  however,  crossing  this  inland  sea  or  ascertaining  whether  it  belonged 
to  any  fluvial  system.  Even  after  visiting  other  lakes  beyond  Tanganyika  and 
discovering  a  network  of  streams  flowing  northwards,  Livingstone  was  still 
unaware  to  what  basin  they  belonged.  He  even  supposed  they  flowed  to  the 
Nile,  sending  everything  to  the  Egyptian  river,  like  the  old  writers,  and 
from  his  reports  many  modern  geographers  still  described  the  great  inland 
lakes  from  the  Bangweolo  to  the  Albert  Nyanza  as  affluents  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean. 

Nevertheless  the  knowledge  already  acquired  of  the  continental  relief,  and 
of  the  periodical  floods  in  the  vmous  fluvial  basins,  enabled  scientific  students 
to  see  that  the  rivers  described  by  Livingstone  were  really  tributaries  of  the 
Lua-Laba,  or  Upper  Congo,  which  traverses  a  less  elevated  region  than  the 
plateau  containing  the  depressions  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza  and  other  lakes  draining 
to  the  Upper  Nile.  Its  floods,  due  to  the  south  tropical  rains,  reach  their  highest 
level  in  January,  whereas  those  of  the  Upper  Nile  occur  in  August  and  September. 
The  discharge  of  the  Lua-Laba,  calculated  at  low  water  by  liivingstone,  is  also 
over  three  times  greater  than  that  of  the  Nile  below  the  Bahr-el-Jebel  and  Bahr- 
el-Ghazal  confluence.  Hence  it  was  evidently  impossible  to  hold  that  the  Lua- 
Laba  flowed  to  the  Nile  ;  and  the  Sliari  and  Ogoway  being  excluded  on  similar 
grounds,  there  remained  only  two  alternatives,  either  that  it  discharged  into  some 
vast  inland  basin  which  had  never  been  heard  of,  or  else  joined  the  Lower  Zaire — 
by  far  the  most  likely  hypothesis. 

The  point  was  finally  settled  by  Stanley,  who  after  finding  Livingstone  on 
the  banks  of  the  Tanganyika  in  1871,  embarked  in  1876  on  the  Lua-Laba,  and 
after  nine  months'  fluvial  navigation  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Congo.  The 
whole  expedition  had  lasted,  from  the  time  of  its  departure  from  Zanzibar, 
altogether  nine  hundred  and  ninety-nine  days,  and  a  distance  of  7,000  miles  had 
been  traversed  in  the  various  explorations  of  the  great  lakes  and  the  river. 
Rapids  had  been  shot,  falls  turned,  rocks  blown  up,  boats  pushed  across  forests 
and  ra'^'ines ;  hunger  and  fever  had  been  endured,  and  as  many  as  tbirty-two 
battles  fought  with  the  natives,  some  perhaps  too  hastily.  Of  the  four  Europeans 
forming  part  of  the  expedition,  Stanley  alone  had  survived,  and  of  his  three 
hundred  and  fifty  six  native  followers,  two  hundred  and  forty-one  were  left  behind 
in  the  wilds  of  Africa.  After  this  prodigious  exploit,  displaying  marvellous  daring 
and  energy,  indomitable  perseverance,  amazing  moral  ascendancy  and  military 
talents  of  a  high  order,  nothing  remained  except  to  verify  details,  correct  the  first 
summary  draught  of  the  course  of  the  main  stream,  and  connect  with  this  funda- 
mental route  all  subsequent  surveys  made  in  the  region  of  the  Congo  and  its 
affluents.  In  this  work  are  now  engaged  a  host  of  explorers,  and  the  observer 
remains  almost  overwhelmed  with  the   great  results  obtained  within  the  brief 


ilHi 


,.»^frii,i'^^ii^A^-i..im\^^<rA  ^;>.^.^. , 


iy)fi)wiw-w.rT,T"y»- 


,._.  ^-jmm 


•114 


WEST  AFRICA. 


space  of  twelve  years  since  Stanley  sailed  down  the  Lua-Laba  and  found  it  the 
Congo, 

The  eastern  slope  of  Lake  Tanganyika  has  already  been  visited  by  a  very 
large  number  of  white  travellers,  traders,  and  missionaries,  and  the  journey  has 
even  been  made  by  a  lady,  Mrs.  Annie  B.  Hore,  in  a  bath-chuir.  Houses  in  the 
European  style  have  sprung  up  on  its  shores,  and  its  waters  have  been  navigated' 
by  steam.  South-west  of  Tanganyika,  geographipal  triumphs  have  been  less 
brilliant,  although  even  here  Livingstone's  routes  have  been  crossed  and  com- 
pleted by  those  of  Girauld,  Bohm,  and  Reichardt.     Towards  the  west,  Cameron, 


Fig.  202. — Congo  Basin  as  tbaced  bt  Stanley  after  ceossino  the  Conti.nbnt. 

Scale  l:83,fi00,000. 


Eaab    oT    Gr— wwidi 


.  coo  Miles. 


who  in  1874  had  discovered  the  emissary  of  the  lake  to  the  Upper  Congo,  also 
explored  others  of  its  headstrearas,  and  crossed  the  divide  between  the  Congo 
and  the  Zambese,  being  the  first  of  modern  travellers  to  complete  the  journey 
across  the  continent,  from  Zanzibar  on  the  Indian  to  Beuguella  on  the  Atlantic 
Ocean. 

Others,  such  as  Wissmaiin,  Gleerup,  and  OsCar  Lenz  have  since  traversed  the 
Congo  bas<iu,  also  crossing  from  sea  to  sea,  while  on  the  western  slope  nearly  all 
the  Congo  affluents  have  been  ascended  as  far  as  navigable.  Mechow,  Biittner 
Tnpppnbfick,  and  Mnssari  have  surveyed  the  Kwongo  bosin ;  Wissmann,  De 
Franyois  and  Grenfell  have  studied  the  course  of  the  Kassai,  which,  with  ite 


'^;> 


mt 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  CONGO  BASIN. 


416 


found  it  the 

c(l  by  a  very 
V  journey  has 
Houses  in  the 
3eu  navigated 
ave  been  less 
sed  and  com- 
rest,  Cameron, 

TINBNT. 


I 

^ 


yr 


ML 


jper  Congo,  also 
ween  the  Congo 
lete  the  journey 
I  on  the  Atlantic 

nee  traversed  the 
slope  nearly  all 

lechow,  Biittner 
Wissmann,  Be 
which,  with  ite 


affluent  the  Sunkuru,  and  sub-affluent  the  Lo-Maini,  offers  the  most  direct  route 
from  the  Ijower  to  the  Upper  Congo.  Pierre  de  lirazza  has  opened  the  navigation 
of  the  Alima,  which  has  already  become  a  busy  comtnorcial  highway  ;  Jacque  do 
Brazza,  Dolisie,  Poncl,  Van  G^le,  and  Grenfell  have  penetrated  from  opposite 
sides  into  the  Nkheni,  Li-Kwalla,  Bunga,  and  U-Iknghi  valleys;  the  same  inde- 
fatigable Grenfell  has  ascended  the  Tchuapa,  the  Ikelemba,  the  Lu-Longo,  the 
Mungala,  and  the  Itimbiri. 

The  least  known  section  of  the  Congo  basin  is  at  present  the  north-eastern 

Fig.  203.— Congo  Basin  as  known  in  1887. 

Boole  1 :  24,000,000. 


600  Miles. 


region,  which  of  all  others  offers  the  greatest  geographical  interest,  and  which 
will  probably  one  day  prove  to  be  the  most  important,  for  here  is  situated  the 
water-parting  between  the  Nile  and  Congo  basins.  But  even  here  Junker's 
exploration  of  the  Welle  to  within  120  miles  in  a  straight  line  of  the  Congo 
valley,  no  longer  leaves  any  doubt  that  this  river  belongs  to  the  Congo  system, 
and  that  through  it  will  sooner  or  later  be  opened  the  route  to  the  White  Nile. 

Thanks  to  Junker's  surveys,  a  rough  calculation  may  already  be  made  of  the 
actual  exttjnt  of  this  vast  fluvial  system,  which  according  to  Leon  Metohnikov  is 


irif.lt»4ife;W»ii)f>"''il»rr,ir.<fiVirriWi^^ 


416 


WEST  AFRICA. 


m 


about  1,630,000  square  miles.  But  the  elements  even  for  a  remotely  approximate 
estimate  of  the  population  are  still  lacking.  From  the  accounts,  however,  of 
various  explorers,  who  have  visited  many  thickly  peopled  districts,  twenty  millions 

Fig.  204.— Chief  Routes  op  Modebn  Exflobebs  in  the  Coxoo  Basin-. 

Scale  1 :  SRWW.OOO. 


-./-•-... 

»•.!•■ 


10" 


'  -1-/  <^-'V:jr^ryI-:.:::'.::>h 


^•••^  Vi. 
t 


Ea«toFGreenwicN    .  ^50' 


Land  Bonlei. 


Water  Rontea.  | 

600  Miles. 


would  certainlj'  appear  to  be  too  low  a  figure,   and  Stanley  himself  considers 
twenty-nine  millions  as  perhaps  nearest  to  the  truth. 

•  The  Tchambesi  and  Lake  Bangweolo. 

The  farthest  headstreams  of  the  Congo  take  their  rise  on  the  southern  slope  of 
the  Tchingambo  mountains,  midway  between  lakes  Tanganyika  and  Nyassa,  which 
in  a  siraighi  line  is  uol  more  than  420  miles  from  Kiloa,  the  nearest  town  on  the 
shore  of  the  Indian  Ocean.  This  region  of  the  Upper  Congo,  visited  by  Joseph 
Thomson  and  Stewart  in  1879,  and  by  Lenz  in  1886,  rises  to  a  height  of  6,000 


LAKE  BANGWEOLO. 


417 


r  approximate 
,  however,  of 
venty  millions 


10' 


imself  considers 


outhern  slope  of 
id  Nyassa,  which 
rest  town  on  the 
ifisited  by  Joseph 
height  of  6,000 


feet,  and  here  several  streams  traversing  a  gently  rolling  plateau  converge  in  a 
single  channel,  known  in  its  upper  course  as  the  Tchasi,  and  lower  down  as  the 
Tchambesi.  Its  course  is  at  first  from  north-east  to  south-west  in  the  direction  of 
the  Zambese  basin,  from  which  it  is  separated  only  by  a  low  pnrting-line,  but  farther 
down,  after  collecting  several  other  streams  and  emissaries  of  extensive  morasses, 
it  enters  Lake  Bemba,  or  Bangweolo,  southernmost  of  all  the  great  sheets  of  water 
belonging  to  the  Congo  hydrographic  system, 

Bangweolo,  discovered  in  1868  by  Livingstone,  and  revisited  by  him  five  years 
afterwards  to  end  his  days  on  its  southern  shores,  is  an  extremely  irregular  lacus- 

Kg.  206. — Lake  Banomteolo,  accokdino  to  Livinostonb. 
Scale  1 : 8,000,000. 


3^!*       E.as''-  0'    Gre'-'vich 


LiTingatoneli  rcuto. 


60  MUM. 


trino  basin  divided  into  numerous  secondary  sections  by  islands  and  peninsulas. 
Its  altitude,  estimated  by  Livingstone  at  3,700,  is  raised  by  Giraud  to  4,300  feet, 
while  the  forests  of  reeds  occupying  a  great  part  of  the  depression  render  it  diffi- 
cult to  form  u  eon-ect  idea  of  its  total  area.  The  open  water  at  the  northern 
extremity  develops  a  vast  oval,  stretching  for  60  miles  beyond  the  horizon  towards 
the  south-west.  About  the  centre  lies  the  island  of  Kissi,  highest  of  the  archi- 
pelago, rising  60  feet  above  the  surrounding  waters,  which  are  nowhere  more  than 
18  or  20  feet  deep,  and  which  towards  the  south-east  are  lost  in  a  submerged  plain, 
overgrown  with  sedge.  Even  the  Tchambesi  flows  throughout  its  lower  course 
amid  low-lying  marshy  tracts  overgrown  with  reeds,  giving  them  an  aspect  of  a 
boundless  glassy  plain  relieved  here  and  there  by  clumps  of  trees.     Banks  rising 


V    I  mil  li  ■'  ii<i*yi-iiii -riiiiiUMmi 


418 


WEST  AFBICA. 


a  few  feet  above  the  surface  skirt  the  ramifications  of  the  main  stream,  whose  current 
winds  sluggishly  through  tlie  surrounding  swamps. 

For  tliu  greater  part  of  its  contour  on  the  east,  south,  and  west  Bangweolo  is 
separated  from  these  riverain  marshes  only  by  a  small  wall  of  reeds  10  to  12  feet 
high,  and  across  this  rank  vegetation,  concealing  a  view  of  the  lake,  a  track  has  to 


Fig.  20C. — Lake  Banoweolo,  accorbino  to  Gibaud. 

Scale  1  : 1,600,000.  * 


-e    A 


East  or     Greenwich 


89*  20- 


50";ci 


so  Miles 


■;  ■)- 


-4:if^:ff^ 


be  hewn  for  boats  with  an  axe.  And  when  at  last  the  or.  .\  waters  are  reached 
the  explorer  has  to  follow  for  days  together  the  mor.otouous  shore- line  formed 
by  these  tall  flags  tipped  with  tufted  burrs  rooted  in  14  feet  of  water  and  growing 
over  10  feet  above  the  surface. 


) ;;.    r .  ■' 


vhose  current 

Bangweolo  is 

0  to  12  feet 

El  track  has  to 


Ss; 


■/X-. 


I?* 


50"  ;o 


t. 

,.'„  v., 
*   ?    A.-  - 


J    _■  ;»■  t,*..  >  J,-:^ 


iters  are  readied 
jhoreline  formed 
ater  and  growing 


THE  TRAVSLLEB  OIRADD  AMID  THE  BEBDS  OF  LAKE  BANOWEOLO. 


r>>ftt*;-^*    -  -.>,'l-;:v,.  ^ 


lJ|IJ|II.JI|IHi' 


0 


U 


1=  nl 


// 


■M'  \ 


i",%i',(51,Se«jlL,.4|«fJfei4l:lls,',t- 


THE  KAMOLONDO  UA.SIN. 


410 


Lakk  Mokro. 

Towards  the  south-east  extremity  of  the  hike  the  two  sedgy  wuUs  converge, 
gruduuUy  giving  to  the  lacustrine  basin  tlie  us^H'ct  of  a  river.  Hero  is  the  Lua- 
Pula  emissary,  a  meandering  stream  'JO  feet  deep  and  200  yards  broad,  which 
has  a  winding  course,  probably  of  liiO  miles,  flowing  first  south  and  south-west, 
then  trending  abruptly  north-west  to  the  Mambirin  (Afombottuta)  rapids. 
Beyond  these  dangerous  cataracts  no  European  traVeller  has  yet  followed  the 
course  of  the  Lua-Pula,  which,  however,  is  known  to  turn  northwards  to  join  Lake 
Moero,  or  Meru.  In  this  section  of  its  course,  about  I  HO  miles  long,  falls  or  rapids 
must  be  very  numerous,  for  according  to  Giraud  the  difference  of  level  between 
Lakes  Bangweolo  and  Moero  is  no  less  than  1,500  feet.  To  Moero  itself  Living- 
stone assigned  an  altitude  of  3,460  feet,  which  Giraud  reduces  to  2,820.  Although 
of  somewhat  smaller  size  it  presents  a  larger  extent  of  open  water  than  the  southern 
basin,  stretching  for  about  90  miles  uninterruptedly  from  south-west  to  north-east, 
where  it  is  separated  from  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake  Tanganyika  by  an 
isthmus,  also  90  miles-broad.  Towards  the  south  where  it  receives  the  Lua-l*ula 
influent,  the  shores  merge  in  boundless  marshy  plains,  but  everywhere  else  its 
waters  are  clear  and  deep.  Livingstone,  who  visited  it  at  two  intervala, 
ascertained  that  the  difference  between  high  and  low-water  level  is  at  least  20 
feet.  The  surface  of  the  lake  is  increased  hundreds,  possibly  thousands,  of  square 
miles  during  the  floods,  when  the  fish  of  Silurian  types,  such  as  the  ClaHns  ca/jcnuifi, 
spread  over  the  riverain  lands,  devouring  the  insects,  reptiles,  and  other  animals 
drowned  by  the  inundations ;  and  when  the  waters  begin  to  subside  these  siluroids 
are  in  their  turn  captured  in  thousands,  by  means  of  dams  and  fishing-baskets. 
The  natives  mentioned  to  Livingstone  the  names  of  thirty-nine  species 
inhabiting  the  lake  and  the  Kalongozi,  its  great  affluent  from  the  east.  A  few 
islands  are  scattered  about  the  central  parts,  while  towards  the  north  the  Moero 
assumes  the  aspect  almost  of  an  Alpine  basin  between  the  lofty  cliffs  and  wooded 
slopes  of  the  Bua  and  Eoma  ranges. 

Thk  .KAM«)Lu.Ni)o  Basin. 

As  they  converge  from  the  west  and  east,  these  two  chains  contract  the  lake  to 
a  narrow  channel,  forming  the  Lua-Vua  or  Lua-Laba  emissary,  called  by  Living- 
stone Webb's  River.  Here  the  clear  although  dark  current  rushes  between  the 
forest-clad  hills  from  rapid  to  rapid,  from  gorge  to  gorge,  till  it  reaches  the  Lanji 
basin,  which  native  report  represents  rather  as  a  permanentlj'  flooded  depression, 
than  as  a  lake  in  the  strict  sense  of  the  word.  Yet  in  this  reservoir  is  formed  the 
true  Congo,  for  here  converge  both  the  Kamolondo,  or  western  Lua-Laba,  and  the 
Lu-Kuga  emissary  from  Tanganyika.  The  Kamolondo  itself  develops  an  extensive 
fluvial  system,  bounded  south  by  the  great  divide  between  the  Congo  and  Zambese, 
and.  comprising  such  large  hi,  or  "rivers,"  as  the  Lu-Bari,  the  Lu-Fula,  the 
Lu-Laba,  and   the   Lu-Fira.      The  last  mentioned   is  obstructed   by   numerous 


'  '  "^ 


mmmmm 


120 


WEST  AFBICA. 


pictiircpquo  cnscadcs,  such  as  the  Juo  IuIIh,  where  the  white  fonming  waters 
tuTiibli'  down  a  height  of  80  feet  between  rocky  red  sandstone  walls.  The  main 
Htreum  on  the  contrary  flows  through  a  chain  of  lakes,  of  which  the  largest, 
known  as  the  Lo-IIamha,  lies  sechuU'd  in  the  upper  vaUcy,  while  the  otliors  follow 
along  the  lower  course  like  a  string  of  ix»arls  on  a  necklace.  Ileichard,  who 
crossed  it  at  over  120  miles  above  the  confluence,  asserts  that  of  the  two  Lua- 
Labas  tlie  Kamolondo  is  the  most  copious,  and  although  not  the  longest,  should  on 
this  account  be  regarded  as  the  main  branch  of  the  Upper  Congo.     On  the  other 


Fig.  207. -Lake  U-Ntamezi,  aooobdino  to  Ebhabdt  and  Rkbuanx. 

Boole  1 :  80,000,000. 


Mjsmamtr»fmmi 


East   of    Gr«<wwicK 


.  800  HilM. 


hand  the  Tanganyika  emissary  sends  down  very  little  water,  and  was  even  diy 
when  first  visited  by  explorers. 

Lake  Tanganyika. 

Tanganyika  was  long  known  to  the  Portuguese  and  Arabs,  and  is  mentioned 
under  various  names  in  numerous  documents  of  the  eighteenth  century,  although 
generally  confounded  with  Nyassa  and  other  lakes.  The  three  basins  of  Nyassa, 
Tanganyika  and  Nyanza  are  even  merged  in  a  single  inland  sea  stretching  north 
and  south  across  thirteen  degrees  of  latitude,  and  still  figured  as  Lake  U-Nyamezi 
on  Erhardt  and  llebmann's  map  of  1856.  But  this  great  Mediterranean  has  been 
resolved  into  its  three  constituent  elements  by  the  memorable  voyage  of  Burton 
and  Speke  in  1858,  and  the  subsequent  explorations  of  Livingstone  and  Stanley. 


TANOANYIKA. 


4S1 


iiminp;  waters 

(.     The  main 

tlio  lurgcHt, 

othoFH  follow 
leichurd,  who 
tlu!  two  Lua- 
jost,  Hhould  on 

On  tho  other 


i  was  even  dry 


nd  is  mentioned 
intury,  although 
asius  of  Nyassa, 
stretching  north 
iake  U-Nyamezi 
ranean  has  been 
yage  of  Burton 
i  and  Stanley. 


Of  all  the  Central  African    lacuMtrino  ba^inh,    .  igan^    xa  is  uow  the  best 

known,  and  a  comparative  study  of  Livingstono'8  ran  with   sccutm    »  riubsctiiient 

meaNuremealH   whoww  that   it   had  already   been  mrv  illy  ««rve\     i   hy  tin*  first 

explorers.      From  I'amlHJte  liay  at  the  southern  tt)  le  Ru-»Si/     moufb         llu) 


Fig.  20H.— Lake  Tanoanyika. 
Soala  1  :  a,«lOO,000. 


^•-.^.^^J^ 


Amofdlug  to  tbe  last  ezplotcn 


K\ 


AooordiDg  to  LiTiiif^tone 


120  Milts. 


northern  end,  it  has  a  total  length  of  380  miles,  but  a  mean  width  of  not  more 
than  30  miles.  It  is  of  regular  form,  and  nearly  destitute  of  islands  and  other 
salient  features,  beyond  the  long  U-Buari  peninsula  on  the  north-west  coast. 
Tanganyika  presents  a  striking  resemblance  to  Nyassa,  both  basins  being  of  the 


SS«»»V..ilJIWJ' 


..j.;k.aim^  ' 'tr  .'MtB  I'^iifi     If  ^Afty-aiijciM^iw.W'Miwiiva  iiiiiWiii>(ij<iiiii'i  iii'iLiii    i«i>ii|.    -iMmmimti^ 


'it 


422  WEST  AFRICA. 

same  form,  diHpitsorl  in  the  samedirpction.of  thcHumc  gonoriil  aspect,  und  doubtlobj 


i-.i. 


produced  by  the  8ame  geological  causes.     Unlike  Bangweolo,  a  mere  permanent 


h-mm  u  - 


iamiimiimmmma 


TANGANYIKA. 


128 


1(1  (luubtleii 


m^ 


•i^^yf 


$ 


,1 


V 


I.  1^' 


f 


M 


'^ 


;>.in 


lliiaJ 


ere  permanent. 


flocxling  cnuw'd  by  the  back  flow  (»f  wiitors  obHtructod  lower  down,  it  in  n  niituml 
luoufltrint)  hiiHin,  with  deep  wiitor  altnoNt  ovorywhcro  closii  iuKlioro.  At  ii  dlHtiinco 
of  2,000  \iiitU  off  (!u|»e  Kulj<»go,  Stanley  failed  to  reach  the  bottom  ^'ith  a  '?00- 
fathom  line,  and  near  the  sanu>  point  LivinpfHtoni"  wuh  («<|uully  miMncccNsful  with 
one  ;iOO  I'uthoiiiH  hn^j;,  while  (jliraiid  n-cordcd  a  depth  of  '-\'>0  fathoms  off  tlio 
Karonia  <uu8t.  Aecording  to  the  reportH  of  tho  Ujiji  Arabs,  the  lake  Ixiiled  up  in 
1H62,  emitting  vapours  and  strowing  the  ))each  with  d/'bris  roscjubliug  Ititunien, 
some  fiiigmontfl  of  which  were  afterwards  collected  by  I  [ore. 

Taiigiinyika,  that  iH,  "  Union  of  Waters,"  is  fed  by  many  affluents,  mostly 
howevc'  of  small  size.  Tho  largest  is  tho  Malagara/i,  whi(;h  during  the  floods 
is  no  li  .ss  than  1,700  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  even  in  tho  dry  season  is 
nowhere  fordablo.  Its  farthest  headstream  rises  in  a  lakelet  within  ''V>W  mileb  of 
the  cost  coast,  being  the  point  whore  the  Congo  basin  approaches  nearest  to  the 
Indian  Ocean.  The  Ilu-Sizi  influent  from  tho  north  follows  exactly  the  main 
axis  of  the  lake,  which  was  at  Hrst  suppcjsed  to  send  it  overflow  through  this 
channel  to  the  Nile. 

Storms  are  rare  on  Tan{,'anyika,  although  it  sometimes  happens  that  tho  east 
winds,  suddenly  interrupting  the  normal  currents  from  the  west,  sweep  down  the 
eastern  slopes  and  violently  agitate  the  placid  surface  of  the  lake.  These  sudden 
squalls  are  mostly  to  be  feared  during  the  rainy  season,  although  the  well  is 
generally  heaviest  in  dry  weather.  The  angry  waters  are  much  dreaded  by  the 
native  boatmen,  who,  when  rounding  the  headlands,  never  fail  to  pour  out  libations 
and  make  other  offerings  to  the  "  noble  devils "  inhabiting  thom.  Those  who 
forget  to  present  a  black  sheep  and  a  white  chicken  to  tho  demon  of  Mount 
Eubogo  never  return,  a  fierce  gust  from  the  mountain  swooping  down  and 
engulfing  them.  The  scenery,  at  once  grand  and  picturesciie,  is  pleasantly  varied 
by  Cape  Kabogo  on  the  east  side,  and  tho  n'.imerous  other  headlands  breaking  the 
line  of  verdant  slopes,  red  sandstone  cliffs,  white  limestone  walls,  granite  domes 
and  towers.  The  transparent  waters  abound  in  fish,  such  a^  the  sinf/a,  a  great 
resource  of  the  riverain  populations,  but  the  shell-fish  fauna  is  specially  remark- 
able, more  than  half  the  species  occurring  nowhere  else.  Some  cf  the  forms  are 
essentially  niariue,  being  apparently  allied  to  the  fossil  species  of  the  Upper  (^halk 
in  Europe  and  North  America. 

The  water  of  Tanganyika  is  perfectly  fresh,  a  fact  which  alone  made  it  highly 
probable  that  there  must  be  an  outflow.  But  when  the  Ru-Sizi  was  shown  to  be 
an  affluent,  and  no  emissary  could  be  found  at  either  extremity  flowing  in  a  line 
with  the  main  axis,  as  is  the  case  with  nearly  all  lakes,  it  was  at  first  supposed 
that  the  inflow  was  carried  off  by  evaporation.  But  it  was  soon  discovered  that 
the  level  was  gradually  rising,  flooding  old  beaches  and  forests,  and  submerging 
rocks  staiiding  over  10  feet  above  the  old  level.  This  phenomenon  seemed  to 
indicate  that  there  was  no  issue,  until  the  observations  of  Cameron,  Here,  and 
Thomson  made  it  e'\ident  that  the  Lu-Kuga  was  certainly  an  intermittent  emis- 
sary, conveying  the  overflow  from  the  west  coast  to  the  Congo.  After  reaching 
the  level  of  this  river,  which  at  the  outlet  is  over  2  miles  wide,  but  often  choked 


ii;^>i<|gV » "rt«e .i<h il ■'■  I iliii^»'i  n . i >  ■  »f»i  >igft ' mi ■ » 


;,jiii.,'.,  ,r,»'i  ,f^;;.i  Ol^^:ii.i>^,?j;y;j;^-.i^ji^^ 


424 


WEST  AFRICA. 


with  dense  matted  vegetation  at  the  narrower  parts,  the  lake  again  began  to 
subside,  falling  over  10  feet  by  1882,  and  5  feet  more  by  1886.  This  subsidence 
caused  great  alarm  to  the  natives,  who  feared  the  "  white  wiisards  "  might  empty 
the  whole  lake  by  throwing  "  medicines  "  into  Lu-Kuga.  "  See,"  said  a  chief  to 
M.  Giraud,  "  how  they  cross  the  lake  and  the  water  goes  with   them."     Their 


Fig.  210. — The  Lu-Kuoa  uevose  the  Flush. 

Scale  1 :  140,000. 


'-^■■.,'  'M^-j^ 


2S'a4. 


East  of  G 


as*  25' 


.8  Miles. 


ignorance  of  any  former  outflow  seems  to  show  that  the  basin  was  long  closed 
before  its  recent  rise  to  the  level  of  Lu-Kuga. 

According  to  the  latest  measurements,  Tanganyika  stands  over  2,600  feet 
above  the  sea,  which  would  give  the  emissary  a  fall  of  about  7  feet  per  mile, 
during  its  course  of  120  miles  to  the  Congo.  Throughout  its  upper  course,  which 
alone  has  hitherto  been  surveyed,  the  current  is  very  rapid,  without,  however, 
forming  any  cascades.  Its  foaming  waters  flow  through  a  charming  valley 
between  wooded  hills,  rising  on  both   sides  from  800  to  2,000   feet  above   the 


l*k»»i^»i»™~«pPll>»«»H]« 


■■■■^■•(PiU- 


'm%i 


■>•■'■;' 


THE  MIDDLE  CONGO. 


426 


again  began  to 

This  subsidence 

"  might  empty 

said  a  chief  to 

them."     Their 


rst     '. 


as* 25' 


was  long  closed 

over  2,600  feet 
7  feet  per  mile, 
)er  course,  which 
ithout,  however, 
charming  valley 
feet  above   the 


surrounding  grassy  plains,  studded   here  and   there  v**th  clumps  of  trees,  and 
roamed  over  by  herds  of  buffaloes  and  antelopes. 

Below  Lake  lianji,  the  Lua-Laba,  or  rather  the  Congo,  flows  for  some  60 
miles  through  a  still  unexplored  region.  But  from  the  confluence  of  the  Lu-Ama, 
descending  from  the  mountains  skirting  Tanganyika,  it  is  now  known  to  geogra- 
phers throughout  its  whole  course  to  the  Atlantic.  At  this  point  it  is  already  a 
great  river,  over  1,200  yards  broud.  and  with  a  mean  but  not  constant  depth  of 
12  or  15  feet.  It  flows  first  westwards,  then  nearly  due  north  to  the  equator, 
sometimes  in  a  single  channel,  sometimes  ramifying  into  several  branches  encir- 
cling wooded  islands  or  sandbanks.  Here  it  is  joined  on  both  sides  by  several 
large  afiluents,  between  two  of  which,  the  Lu-Fu  and  Eankora,  it  rushes  in  u 
narrow  rocky  bed  over  a  series  of  seven  cataracts,  obstructing  all  navigation. 
These  cataracts,  where  the  stream  crosses  the  equator  and  trends  north-westwards, 
have  been  named  the  Stanley  Falls,  in  honour  of  the  daring  explorer  who  dis- 
covered and  successfully  traversed  them. 

Below  the  falls  the  river,  flowing  at  an  altitude  of  1,400  feet  above  the  sea, 
expands  into  a  broad  placid  stream  offering  no  further  impediments  to  navigation 
till  it  approaches  the  Atlantic.  In  this  section  it  is  joined  by  several  great 
affluents,  such  as,  from  the  south  the  Lu-Bilash  and  Lu-Lami  (Lo-Mami),  which 
rises  near  another  Lo-Mami,  flowing  through  the  Sankuru  to  the  Eassai ;  from  the 
north  the  Arawhimi,  rivalling  the  main  stream  itself  in  volume,  and  rising  in  the 
highlands  to  the  west  of  Lake  Muta-N'zige.  Stanley  supposed  at  first  that  the 
Arawhimi  was  a  continuation  of  the  Welle,  discovered  by  Schweinfurth  in  the 
Niam-Niam  country ;  but  the  subsequent  journeys  of  BohndorfF,  Lupton,  Casati, 
and  Junker  have  shown  that  the  Welle  lies  farther  north,  and  that  the  true 
headstream  of  the  Arawhimi  is  the  Nepoko,  seen  by  Junker  to  the  south  of  the 
Monbuttu  territory.  Below  the  Arawhimi  confluence,  the  Congo,  which  here 
assumes  an  almost  lacustrine  aspect,  is  joined  by  the  Loika  (Itimbiri),  and  the  Mo- 
Ngala,  two  other  streams  descending  from  the  north,  but  too  small  to  be  identified 
with  the  WeUe. 

North  and  north-west  of  the  Nepoko,  Junker  followed  the  curve  of  the  Welle 
(Makua)  to  a  point  within  about  110  miles  of  the  Congo  ;  but  he  was  compelled 
here  to  retrace  his  steps  without  solving  the  Welle  problem.  In  this  region, 
however,  he  found  the  Welle  swollen  by  the  Mbomo  with  its  Shiuko  tributary, 
which  may  probably  be  Lupton'a  Euta,  the  Bahr-el-Euta  of  the  Arabs.  Beyond 
the  Mbomo  confluence  the  united  stream  would  appear  to  continue  its  westerly 
course  parallel  with  the  Congo,  ultimately  joining  the  U-Banghi  about  240  miles 
from  the  farthest  point  reached  by  Junker.  The  U-Banghi  was  itself  ascended 
by  Grenfell  far  beyond  the  probable  junction,  which  however  was  not  noticed  by 
him  either  because  he  kept  mainly  to  the  right  bank,  or  because  the  mouth  of  the 
Welle  was  masked  by  some  of  the  wooded  islands  abounding  in  all  these  great 
waterways. 

Beyond  the  Itimbiri  confluence  the  Congo,  ramifying  into  numerous  channels 
with  a  total  breadth  at  some  points  of   12  miles  or  even  more,  continues  its 

91— AF 


"ulll 


^(i'Mrif]'i<iff,i'i'  "  iiirtirnhtrf'jjftiiiiarii  ^.'"tlfriit'ij'i 


426 


WEST  AFRICA. 


westerly  course  for  240  miles,  during  which  it  is  joined  by  its  largest  ufHuents. 
From  the  east  come  the  deep  Lu-Longo  with  its  I3u-Ringa  (Lopori)  tributary,  the 
Ikiilembu,  and  the  Ruki  (Bo-Ruki  or  "Black  River"),  all  ascended  by  Grenfell  to 
the  head  of  their  navigation.  But  however  copious  these  utHuonts,  they  are 
all  exceeded  by  the  mighty  U-Banghi,  which  comes  from  the  north,  prolwibly 
collecting  all  the  waters  of  the  vast  semicircle  of  plateaux,  highlands,  and  water- 
partin^'s  stretching  from  the  sources  of  the  Shuri  to  those  of  the  White  Nile  in 
the  Niam-^'iam  territory.     Here  it  is  also  perhaps  joined  by  the  Nana,  rising  ou 

Fig.  211. — TuE  Congo  and  U-Banoui  Co.nfluencb. 

Boole  1  : 3,000.000. 


S", 

l:C^-v-:iip|| 

2' 

'''•i^^r\^f^''°'-    if'^  % 

*'                                                            '  n.  * ''  '"  mf           J^Sl^^*  • ,       ■               .A 

•'    '  Jr-  iIa-  '^^t      '     ■  .'   *      '••••.. 

jfiu/ii^u  u^^;  \:'^'':       .- .  \ 

:k':M 

r-             '•'•.'"■"  'i'-^M/.'''      '■         ".  *  V^    '  •   • '■ 

•  •   ''f-C'yV '*■'**••    •  •  Y  ••.*.•;.    *•     ■    .. 

•"••    '•      '      •  ^t^ 'wF  •  ■  ''    ••     •  •  •      •*"'•;.  ■• ' 

••  7.  ■#   *.*  .'  nmi^toKnui'  •,.'■■•':' 

M ^*  '                mMf^*.** 

'T. 

P' 

E 

astof  GreenwicK                        IS'                                                    19* 

■■^■M 


.  aoAUiw. 


the  same  uplands  as  the  Benue,  and  by  the  outflow  from  the  Uta,  or  "  lake  "  in  a 
l>re-eminent  sense,  which  has  been  heard  of  by  so  many  explorers,  but  has  never 
yet  been  visited.  According  to  Von  Francois,  the  mean  discharge  of  the  U-Banghi 
is  200,000  cubic  feet  per  second,  which  however  seems  un  exaggeratwl  estimate  to 
M.  Ponel,  who  resided  eleven  mouths  at  Nkunjia,  on  its  lower  course.  The 
navigation  is  first  interrupted  over  300  miles  from  its  mouth  by  the  Zongo  Falls, 
which  even  at  high  water  arrested  van  Gele's  expedition  in  1880,  although 
surmounted  two  years  previously  by  Grenfell. 


.Jt- 


(jest  affluent  8. 
tributury,  the 
>y  Orenfell  to 
Qts,  they  are 
»rth,  prolwibly 
Is,  and  wuter- 
Vhite  Nile  in 
Liuu,  rising  on 


tyVj 


or  "  lake  "  in  a 
i,  but  has  never 
f  the  U-Banghi 
ite<l  estimate  to 
r  course.  The 
he  Zongo  Falls, 
188C,  although 


THE  MIDDLE  CONGO.  427 

It  is  probable  that  at  some  previous  geological  epoch,  the  united  waters  of  the 


Congo  and  U-Banghi  were  collected  in  a  vast  inland  sea,  of  which  some  of  the 


128 


WEST   AI^EICA. 


deeper  depressions  are  still  flooded  during  the  inundations.  Such  is  Lake 
Matumbi,  on  the  left  side,  which  at  high  watiir  probably  oomniunicateH  with  the 
still  larger  Lake  Leopold  IL,  draining  to  a  southern  affluent  ot  the  Congo. 

West  of  the  U-Banghi  the  Congo  is  joined  from  the  north  by  the  Likwalla 
(Likulna),  the  Mossuka  (Bossaka)  of  the  early  French  e.\plorers,  which  has  been 
recently  navigated  by  Jacques  de  Brazza  and  Pecile  for  nearly  200  miles.  Near 
the  Likwalla  junction  the  Congo  is  also  joined  by  the  Bunga  and  the  Alima  from 
the  north,  the  latter  presenting  if  not  the  shortest  at  least  one  of  the  easiest 
overland  routes  from  the  coast  to  the  middle  Congo.  Below  the  AUma  ibllow  the 
Nkheni  and  the  Lefeni  from  the  Ogoway  waterparting,  which  reach  the  right 
bank  of  the  Congo  nearly  opposite  the  confluence  of  the  Kwa,  which  with  its  vast 
ramification  of  secondary  streams  constitutes  the  largest  eastern  tributary  of  the 
main  artery.  ,  / 

The  Kwa,  continued  far  to  the  south  by  the  Eassai,  Sankuru,  and  Lo-Mami, 
has  the  same  hydrographic  importance  on  the  left  that  the  U-Banghi  holds  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Congo.  Its  farthest  headstreams  rise  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Cuanza  and  of  the  western  aflluents  of  the  Zambese,  where  the  Eassai  flows  first 
eastwards  for  120  miles  to  a  marshy  plain  where  it  is  joined  by  the  sluggish 
Lo-Tembwa  from  the  little  Lake  Dilolo,  which  sends  another  emissary  of  the  same 
name  to  the  Liba  headstream  of  the  Zambese.  Thus  the  two  great  arteries, 
Zambese  and  Congo,  form  a  continuous  waterway  across  the  whole  continent, 
which  at  Lake  Dilolo  offers  an  example  of  streams  flowing  to  two  different  basins, 
analogous  to  that  of  the  Cassiquiare,  communicating  both  with  the  Orinoco  and 
Amazons  in  South  America.  According  to  Livingstone,  Dilolo  stands  at  an 
altitude  of  4,000  feet  above  the  sea. 

Just  below  the  confluence  of  the  Dilolo  emissary  the  Eassai  trends  northwards, ' 
flowing  from  the  plateaux  to  the  central  depression  in  a  valley  parallel  with  those 
of  the  Lu-Lua  in  the  east,  and  of  all  the  other  streams  rising  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  Congo  basin.  Beyond  the  depression  which  was  formerly  an  inland  sea, 
the  Eassai  turns  lorth-westwards,  receiving  from  every  valley  a  fresh  affluent, 
and  at  the  Mbimbi  Falls  resuming  its  northerly  course  to  the  Lu-Lua  confluence. 
From  the  east  it  is  also  joined  by  the  Sankuru  (SankuUu)  with  its  Lo-Mami 
headstream,  and  from  the  southern  plateaux  by  the  Tenda,  or  Lo-Anghe,  and 
farther  down  by  the  Ewango  (Ewa-Ngo),  that  is,  the  Nzadi,  Zaire,  or  Zezere  of 
the  natives,  which  the  Portuguese  traders  often  confounded  with  the  Eassai  itself, 
regarding  it  as  the  true  main  stream  rising  in  a  fathomless  lake,  one  of  the 
"  Mothers  of  the  Nile."  Even  on  the  maps  of  the  present  century  the  Zaire- 
Ewango  was  still  represented  as  escaping  from  a  great  Lake  Aquilonda. 

'  Like  the  Eassai,  the  Ewango  rises  at  an  altitude  of  5,300  feet,  but  instead  of 
trending  eastwards  it  escapes  from  the  plateau  regions  by  following  the  shortest 
or  northern  course  along  the  east  foot  of  the  western  border  ranges.  But  the 
decline  across  a  space  of  five  degrees  of  latitude  is  so  great  that  this  great  river  is 
quite  unnavigable  except  for  about  180  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  Eaparanga 
Fulls,  one  of  the  many  rapids  and  cataracts  obstructing  the  current,  are  no  less  than 


WfMfeT^ff 


THE  MIDDLE  CONGO. 


480 


ich  is  Ijake 
ates  with  the 
longo. 

the  Likwalla 
ich  has  been 
miles.  Near 
)  Alima  from 
f  the  easiest 
na  Ibllow  the 
ch  the  right 
with  its  vast 
butary  of  the 

,ud  Lo-Mami, 
ghi  holds  on 
icinity  of  the 
isai  flows  first 
the  sluggish 
y  of  the  same 
jreat  arteries, 
ole  continent, 
fferent  basins, 
e  Orinoco  and 
stands   at  an 

is  northwards, 
Uel  with  those 

southern  part 
an  inland  sea, 

fresh  affluent, 
liua  confluence. 
L  its  Lo-Mami 
Lo-Anghe,  and 
re,  or  Zezere  of 
le  Kassai  itself, 
,ke,  one  of  the 
tury  the  Za'ire- 
onda. 

,  but  instead  of 
ng  the  shortest 
iges.  But  the 
is  great  river  is 
The  Kaparanga 
are  no  less  than 


160  feet  high ;  but  those  of  Gingunshi,  the  lust  of  these  impediments,  are  little 
over  3  feet,  and  might  perhaps  be  Burmouiite<i  by  light  craft.  After  describing  a 
great  curve  to  the  west,  the  Kwango  trends  eastwards,  receiving  7  or  8  miles 
above  its  mouth  the  Juma,  a  rival  stream  so  large  that  Grenfell  was  unable  to 
ascertain  which  was  the  more  copious  of  the  two.  Nearly  opposite  its  mouth  it  is 
joined  by  the  navigable  emissary  from  Lake  Leopold,  which  forms  a  continuation 
of  the  Lu-Kenye,  a  river  flowing  parallel  with  the  Sankuru. 

Below  these  confluences  the  Eassai-  Kwa  collects  its  waters  in  a  deep  narrow 

Fig.  213.— Tm  Congo  Falm  below  Stanley  Pool. 
Scale  1  :  700,000. 


^                                                                                                                                ^                           ^M 

4" 

*  «*                                             Mi«Jj«fi^4,                      '  '•^^M^P^^'^^I^ 

4* 

ZQ- 

"•-•'■■'.      .         tMmKa    \ 

Da 

A' 
■»0' 

4» 

40- 

^"\^^\  X      f 

^^^^oy^^^x.   ^     .  * 

WSSB^^                          >      -:- 

N*jjjiP2it«4.  -v          *-                    ,     -.  . 

14*  SO'             £a«t  of  Green /('ich                         (5°I0' 

••Village*. 


l?inin. 


channel  piercing  the  rocky  hills  by  which  it  was  foimerly  separated  from  the 
Congo.  Here  the  current,  at  the  narrows  scarcely  600  yards  wide,  has  a  velocity 
of  about  4  miles  an  hour  and  a  depth  of  certainly  over  120  feet.  Even  at  Kwa- 
mouth,  where  it  joins  the  Congo,  it  is  scarcely  more  than  700  yards  broad. 

During  its  south-westerly  course  beyond  Kwamouth  the  Congo,  here  from 
3,000  to  4,500  yards  wide,  flows  between  ranges  of  hills  which  continually  increase 
in  elevation  southwards,  and  which  lower  down  recede  to  the  right  and  left,  the 
intervening  space  being  occupied  by   the  almost  circular  Nkuna  basin,  bettor 


r   .1^'IJiMi    ri'  ■^..t.-.l   \   .lftr.r-:.!f.-^ML.^iCj'.   ..    ■•-    .     -'^1^  //■;-"  ;j-^ -I  ^j- III   ^' 


480 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Fig.  214. 


-Last  Rapids  of  the  Coxoo. 

Sc  lie  1  :  :Wii,U0O. 


knokvn  n^  Sianloy  Pool,  which  is  about  80  square  miles  in  extent,  with  a  depth  of 
200  foot.  On  the  north  or  right  side  this  i.sland-studded  basin  is  skirted  by  a  line 
of  eroded  rooks  clothed  on  top  with  verdure,  which  from  their  resemblunce  to  the 
chiilk  cliffs  on  the  south  coast  of  England  have  been  named  the  Dover  Cliffs, 

A  little  below  Stanley  Pool  begins  the 
long  lina  of  rapids  by  which  th..  naviga- 
tion is  entirely  interrupted  between  the 
middle  and  lower  course  of  the  Congo,  and 
to  which  Stanley  has  applied  the  collective 
np  ne  of  Livingstone  Falls.  For  a  space  of 
about  165  miles  from  Brazzaville  to  Matadi 
there  follow  thirty- two  cascades  besides 
numerous  rapids,  with  a  total  approximate 
fall  of  850  feet.  Some  are  separated  by 
intervals  of  smooth  water  without  percep- 
tible incline,  while  others  are  connected  by 
continuous  slopes,  where  the  current  rises 
and  falls  in  long  seething  billowy  waves. 
At  several  points  the  Congo,  pent  up  be- 
tween its  rocky  walls,  is  no  more  than 
1,000  or  1,500  feet  broad,  and  below 
Tsangula  it  rushes  throiigh  a  gorge  said  to 
be  scarcely  250  yards  wide.  Here  the 
aspect  of  the  stream  changes  incessantly. 
Everywhere  sharp  angular  bends  in  the 
gloomy  defiles,  rocky  cirques  filled  with 
boiling  waters,  cascades,  opposing  currents, 
raging  whirlpools,  vast  liquid  musses  tear- 
ing along  at  tremendous  speed,  tranquil 
bays  with  unruffled  surface,  followed  by 
fresh  rapids,  where  the  mighty  stream 
again  plunges  into  the  wild  gorges  of  its 
rocky  bed.  Here  depth  and  velocity  have 
to  compensate  for  a  broader  channel,  the 
whole  body  of  the  Congo  rushing  along  in 
some  pluces  at  the  fearful  rate  of  30  miles 
an  hour,  with  a  depth  of  over  300  feet.  In 
the  region  of  the  rapids  it  is  joined  only  by 
J  a  few  rivulets  from  the  north,  and  from  the 

southern  plateaux  by  some  larger   streams,  such  as  the  Lu-Lu,  Nkissi,  Kwilu, 
Lu-Fu,  and  Mposo. 

For  some  30  miles  below  the  Ycllala  Fulls,  last  of  the  series,  the  fluvial  valley 
still  preserves  the  aspect  of  a  defile  hollowed  out  by  the  slow  action  of  running 
waters.     The  jagged  cliffs  rise  on  both  sides  over  300,  and  in  some  places  fully 


Ndambl-Mbon$o/^^ 

5' 

30' 

5° 
20' 

i '  f> 

5" 

40' 

VIVl  iiy   *  •  ••         ^ 

5° 
40- 

E 

SstofGrftiwirfi     \'f*^-                                l3°50'         1 

Villages. 


6  Miles. 


h  a  depth  of 
ted  by  a  line 
blunce  to  the 

Cliffs, 
ol  begins  the 
ttv.  naviga- 
between   the 
o  Congo,  and 
the  collective 
or  a  space  of 
ille  to  Matadi 
cades  besides 
I  approximate 
separated  by 
ithout  percep- 
!  connected  by 
i  current  rises 
billowy  waves. 
},  pent  up  be- 
no   more  than 
d,    and    below 
a  gorge  said  to 
de.     Ilore   the 
;e8  incessantly, 
bends  in   the 
les   filled   with 
osing  currents, 
id  musses  tear- 
speed,  tranquil 
3,   followed  by 
mighty   stream 
I  gorges  of  its 
d  velocity  have 
er  channel,  the 
.ishing  along  in 
ate  of  30  miles 
!r  300  feet.     In 
1  joined  only  by 
h,  and  from  the 
Nkissi,   Kwilu, 

le  fluvial  valley 
tion  of  running 
me  places  fully 


IIJIL.  II.I.III4' 


/ 


/ 


8I« 


%w. 


r 


V. 


•  I-'  * 


Trrir— T r-ri — 


-m^m^i^fy 


^ 


•mimmmm 


THE  LOWER  CONGO. 


481 


1,000  feet  above  the  stream  ;  in  some  places  the  wnter  still  flows  over  perceptible 
rapids,  then  at  a  sudden  turn  fills  the  so-eulled  "  Devil's  Cauldron,"  an  abyss 
400  feet  deep,  encircled  by  vertical  red  clay  walls,  where  the  liquid  mass  is 
churned  round  incessantly,  forming  in  some  places  secondary  eddies  12  or  14  feet 


Fijf.  '215.— The  Devil's  Cavldbos. 

Boaltj  1  :  BO.OOO. 


I3°S8' 


2,200  Yiirds.        .' 


in  diameter.  Suddenly,  after  passing  an  island  which  from  a  distance  seems 
completely  to  block  the  way,  the  Congo  enters  its  broad  estuary  studded  with 
islands  and  sandbanks,  where  a  granite  rock  on  the  left  side,  known  as  the  "Fetish 
Stone,"  marks  the  former  limit  of  the  navigation  for  seagoing  vessels. 


^»,  4>;iSV«*-:'iSfcj<;?ifi3.:**;:'^i3te"s«W!S- 


iM^iwilim^p»w4* 


i-i-im 


mri^ 


492 


WEST  AFRIPA. 


i^i 


•is'w 


^•^' 


Towards  thj  mirlrllo  of  the  estuary,  tlie  diHtiiiice  from  shoro  to  shore  cxct^eds  10 
iniies ;  but  as  it  iipproachcs  the  seu  the  current  u^uin  contnictH,  the  chief  branch 
being  less  thim  4  mile*  wide,  while  the  waters  on  both  sides  ramify  into  a  thousand 
tidal  chunnidH.  At  the  mouth  the  distance  from  point  to  \nnnt  is  nearly  7  miles, 
and  in  some  places  :; ;  le^a  than  1,000  feet  deep.  Here  the  Banana  approach, 
nearly  "iO  fe;^t  deep  at  low  water,  runs  athwart  the  stream  in  the  direction  from 
north-east  to  south-west  in  continuation  of  two  sandy  spits,  on  one  side  the 
peninsula  of  Hanana,  on  the  other  Shark  Point,  or  Capo  Santo- Antonio.  On 
most  modorn  maps  the  most  advanced  headland  south-west  of  this  point  is  wrongly 
marked  as  the  famous  Cape  Padrao,  where  Diego  Cam,  discoverer  of  the  Congo, 
erected  a  marble  column  iu  1485  to  indicate  the  possession  of  tliis  territory  by 
I'ortugal.     Cape   Padruo  is   in  fact  identical   with   Shark   Point,  although  the 

Fig.  '216.— The  Conoo  Bab. 
SoOe  1 :  UO.OOa      ! 


16*  10' 


I2'30    East  of  Greenwich 


Ddpth*. 


OtoU 
Vket 


sstoiao 

Feet. 


160  to  890 
Feet. 

6  Miles. 


320  Feet  and 
npworda. 


column  has  disappeared,  having  apparently  been  thrown  down  by  the  Dutch  in 
1645.  The  fragments,  /enerated  by  the  natives  as  fetishes,  were  recently  dis- 
covered by  M.  Schwerin. 

Ab  indicated  by  the  form  of  its  mouth,  the  Congo  is  continued  seawards  in  a 
north-westerly  direction  being  deflected  northwards  by  the  marine  current  from 
the  south.  Its  influence  is  felt  by  seafarers  several  days  before  sighting  the 
continent,  the  water  being  discoloured  for  a  distance  of  270  miles,  while  snags 
and  tangled  masses  of  vegetation  drift  with  the  stream  for  over  200  miles,  and 
have  even  been  met  as  far  north  as  Cape  Lopez  and  the  island  of  Annobon.  For 
40  miles  beyond  the  estuary  tJie  water  is  yellowish,  and  for  14  miles  perfectly 
fresh  on  the  surface  of  the  sea.  Along  the  Cabinda  coast  the  swell  is  partly 
broken  by  the  Congo  waters,  which  for  14  miles  beyond  Banana  Point  continue  to 
flow  in  a  marine  channel  no  less  than  1,200  feet  deep,  skirted  on  either  side  by 


e  cxcoedfl  10 

chief  branch 

)  a  thniiHaiifl 

arly  7  miles, 

iiu  approach, 

irection  from 

one  side  the 

ntonio.     On 

it  is  wrongly 

the  C(jngo, 

territory  by 

although  the 


-    1 

^ 

.8' 
6* 

^ 

r 

jreenwich 

the  Dutch  in 
recently  dis- 

leawards  in  a 
current  from 
sighting  the 
';  while  snags 
00  miles,  and 
nnobon.  For 
lies  perfectly 
veil  is  partly 
at  continue  to 
?ither  side  by 


!;^'^wysu''#'y>'j.''M:iyiia^^''i'^^ 


THE  CONGO  ESTUARY. 


488 


rocky  escarpments  submerged  only  to  a  depth  of  GOO  feet.  The  Congo  Valley  is 
thus  continued  for  over  JJOO  miles  seiwards,  enclosed  right  and  left  by  ridges  or 
embankments,  evidently  consisting  of  refuse  of  all  kinds  deposited  by  the  fluvial 
current  in  its  conflict  with  the  surrounding  waters.  Hence  the  Congo  develops, 
not  a  delta  as  has  been  stated,  but  rather  a  submarine  estuary,  analogous  to  the 
alluvial  formations  by  which  the  beds  of  the  Rhine  and  the  Rhone  influents  are 
continued  under  the  surface  waters  of  I^ukes  Constance  and  Geneva. 

The  tidul  wave  penetrating  into  the  island-studded  Congo  estuary  stems  the 
fluvial  current  and  raises  its  level,  without,  however,  reversing  it.  Hence  the 
mangroves,  which  fringe  the  banks  of  most  other  equatorial  estuaries,  arc  almost 
entirely  ubnent  from  those  of  the  Congo.  The  volume  of  fresh  water,  which  has  u 
fall  of  over  40  feet  between  the  head  of  the  inlet  at  Boma  and  its  mouth  on  the 
Atlantic,  is  far  too  great  and  too  rapid  to  be  arrested  at  any  point  by  the  marine 
inflow.  The  first  estimate  of  the  mean  discharge,  calculated  by  Tuckey  in  1816 
at  1,540,000  cubic  feet  per  second,  coincides  in  a  remarkable  manner  with  those 
that  have  been  made  in  recent  times.  Stanlej'  found  the  outflow  near  Stanley 
Pool  in  the  month  of  March,  that  is,  at  low  water,  to  represent  about  1,;}  10,000 
cubic  feet,  while  the  high-water  marks  on  the  rocks  seemed  to  indicate  a  discharge 
of  2,300,000  during  the  floods.  Subsequent  more  or  lees  trustworthy  estimates  for 
the  section  between  Noki  and  the  mouth  vary  from  1,200,000  to  1,800,000  cubic 
feet  per  second,  the  discrepancy  being  explained  partly  by  the  variations  in 
volume  from  year  to  year,  partly  to  the  um^ertainty  attending  such  experiments, 
owing  to  the  great  breadth  of  the  island-studded  estuary,  where  the  fluvial 
current  flows  over  the  heavier  tidal  wave.  The  yearly  quantity  of  sedimentary 
matter  brought  down  by  the  Congo  is  estimated  by  M.  Chavanne  at  11 ,250,000,000 
cubic  feet,  sufficient  to  b\iild  up  an  island  1,000  feet  high  and  half  a  mile  square 
at  the  base. 

In  any  case  the  Congo  certainly  exceeds  in  volume  all  the  rivers  of  the 
Eastern  Hemisphere,  and  in  the  New  World  is  surpassed  by  the  Amazons  alone, 
which  like  it  rises  in  the  equatorial  zone,  and  is  swollen  by  innumerable  tributaries 
fed  by  the  tropical  rains.  Both  are  characterised  by  a  series  of  moderat«  floods 
and  subsidences,  corresponding  to  the  oscillations  of  the  chief  affluents,  which 
arriving  at  different  periods  tend  to  maintain  the  main  stream  at  a  certain  uniform 
level.  This,  however,  varies  in  the  i?arrows  of  the  regions  of  the  falls  as  much  as 
30  feet,  and  at  Vivi.  below  the  last  caio-act,  14  feet.  At  its  mouth  the  Congo 
presents  two  periods  of  high  water,  I'ecember  and  May,  the  corresponding  lowest 
levels  being  in  March  and  August.  These  two  floods  evidently  follow  the  two 
rainy  seasons  of  winter  and  spring,  the  latter  being  caused  by  the  rise  of  the 
Arawhimi,  U-Banghi,  Alima,  and  other  affluents  on  the  right  bank.  The  pre- 
liminary studies  that  have  been  made  at  the  mouths  of  these  and  the  southern 
tributaries,  give  a  rough  idea  of  their  relative  importance  in  this  vast  hydro- 
graphic  system ;  but  the  exact  share  of  each  in  the  general  movement  of  the 
Congo  waters  can  be  determined  only  by  a  long  series  of  patient  observations. 

The  navigable  highways  open  to  human  industry  in  tb'^  basin  yield  in  extent 


-•JftsSi-wS 


?:«*&??? 


484 


WEST  AFRICA. 


to  fhoso  of  tho  Amnzons  ulono.  This  viiHt  RyMeiii  of  nutunil  cbiiniiols  is  (lotibtlcRH 
scparutod  from  the  seubduid  l)y  tho  sorios  of  rocky  rujiids  through  whicli  tho 
Congo  r('ii('h«'H  itH  lower  courso ;  but  »  numbek  of  BtouiiiurH  huvo  ulroiidy  been 
brought  j)ioooineid  across  tho  country  uud  put  together  on  Stnnley  l*ool,  tlio 
mii)j;nitic('nt  outer  ba«n  for  uU  the  innuinertddo  urtoiiea  kwling  north,  eust,  und 
south  into  (ho  very  heart  of  the  continent.  Hetweon  tho  Livingstone  and  Stuidey 
Falh  the  uuiin  stroain  ahino,  variously  estimated  at  from  'J, 400  to  2,700  miles  in 
length,  presents  an  open  waterway  of  at  leiist  1,000  miles,  besides  AOO  more  in  its 
lower  and  upper  reuehes,  absrdutely  free  from  all  obstruction.     The  Kassui,  cou- 


Pig.  217. — LixiiB  or  Navioatiom  sitkvkyhd  in  thk  Conoo  Basin. 

Sculp  1  :  '.'O.DOO.OOO. 


la' 


14-'. 


2-^°    hast  oT   Gfeertwich 


.  300  Mflet. 


tinned  eastwards  by  the  Sonkuru  and  the  Lo  Mami,  is'accessible  to  river  craft  for 
1,800  miles ;  the  U-Batighi,  the  Tchuopa,  I/ii-Longo,  and  many  others  have  also 
been  ascended  by  steamers  and  barges  for  hundreds  and  hundreds  of  niilfs ;  und 
if  to  the  rivers  be  added  all  the  backwaters,  lakes,  and  lateral  branches,  the  total 
extent  of  navigable  waters  becomes  almost  incalculabl*.  There  is  scarcely  a  single 
point  of  the  basin,  eays  Grenfell,  over  100  miles  from  seme  station  accessible  by 
water.  -  ^  ■'■'■'         - '  •     '''-■-■■■-  ^    „..       : -,t.. -•;.-/;; --,».,:i,v;.?,;. ,,.?-.  ■fpiu^ij^.i-,.^ 

But  little  advantage  can  be  taken  of  these  great  facilities  for  inland  communi- 
cation until  the  regions  of  the  Middle  Congo  are  connected  with  the  seaboard  by 


•  ^:i- 


?lrt  18  (loulttloKS 

i{?h  which  tho 
ul ready  hocn 

I'V    l'(K)l,    tlio 

orth,  oust,  und 

no  iind  Stunli'v 

2,700  miles  in 

iOO  ijioro  in  iis 

Kussui,  con- 


.^*ai^ 


'•ertwich 


)  river  craft  for 
thers  have  also 
1  of  milf 8 ;  and 
nches,  the  total 
jarcoly  a  single 
1  accessible  by 

land  comuiuni- 
be  seaboard  by 


(IHXERAL  .VHl'KCT  OK   TlIK  COXGO  HAS 


486 


good  fimils  uccP8«il)le  to  wheole<l  traffic.  So  groat  are  the  difKcMiltirn  of  transport 
that  a  ton  of  nicnrhandiHc,  NhippiHl  at  Antwerp  for  the  (!ongo  estiiarv  at  a  freight 
of  thirty  sliilliiigs,  is  hurdeucd  with  HuppK'nuMitary  carriago  chargcM  <»f  Mcverai 
hundred,  or  cvoii  wvi-ral  tlions md,  whillingM  before  reaching  the  Arawhinii  c(»ii- 
fluonce.  Hence,  no  nerious  attempt  can  bo  tnado  to  open  up  the  vast  resourcei  of 
the  Congo  biisin  until  the  lower  rapids  are  turned  by  good  roads  or  railways. 

The  direction  and  general  course  of  tho  rivers  is  explained  by  the  continental 
relief  within  the  Congo  basin,  whore  the  high  land  lies  not  in  the  central  regions 
but  in  the  neighbourhood  of  th«!  seaboard.  ICast  of  the  Atlantic  coast  ranges 
stretches  a  (tentral  dejjression,  which  may  be  regarded  as  roughly  liniitt^d  west  and 
north  above  Stanley  Pool  by  the  great  bend  of  the  main  stream  itself  as  far  as  the 
Stanley  Fails,  southwards  by  the  Kassai  and  Sankuru  rivers,  and  towards  the  east 
by  the  ranges  skirting  the  west  side  of  Lake  Tanganyika.  Within  this  vast  space, 
which  is  probably  of  lacustrine  origin,  the  Congo  has  room  to  develop  an  immense 
semicircle  iu  a  norlberly  direction.  From  all  quarters  of  the  compass  streams 
converge  on  this  central  ba^in  with  remarkable  uniformity,  determined  by  the 
general  sbipe  of  the  land.  North  of  Lake  Lanji  tho  Upper  Congo  afHuents 
descend  from  the  eastern  and  western  ranges ;  on  the  south  the  Sankuru-Kassai 
tributaries  flow  nil  in  pnralic>l  channels  northwards;  on  the  west  the  streams 
traversing  the  French  jMJS-essions  follow  an  esterly  course  to  the  right  bank  of 
the  Congo. 

The  Atlantic  coast  ranges  north  of  the  estuary  are  continiied  southwards  in  the 
same  south-easterly  direction,  and  consist  of  the  same  granite,  gmsiss,  and  primi- 
tive schistose  rocks,  with  a  mean  altitude  of  not  more  than  '2,''}00  feet.  From  any 
of  the  summits  commanding  the  Congo  Valley  on  the  south  scarcely  any  eminences 
are  visible  on  the  horizon  rising  higher  than  the  observer's  standpoint.  The  whole 
surface  is  carved  into  deep  gorges  through  which  wind  the  converging  streams, 
while  the  ranges  rise  gradually  southwards.  West  of  the  Middle  Kwango  some 
of  the  crests  exceed  3,000  feet,  while  about  the  headwaters  the  plateau  itself  stands 
at  an  elevation  of  considerably  over  6,000  feet.  But  towards  the  east  tho  surface 
assumes  an  almost  horizonttil  aspect,  and  here  lies  the  lacustrine  parting  line, 
which  sends  its  overflow  on  the  one  hand  through  the  Kassai-Congo  to  the  Atlantic, 
on  the  other  through  the  Zambese  to  the  Indian  Ocean.  The  greater  part  of  the 
western  region  of  hills  and  plateaux  is  overlaid  with  a  thick  laj'er  of  laterite 
formed  by  the  disintegration  of  the  argillaceous  schists  and  other  surface  rocks, 
and  presenting  the  appearance  of  many-coloured  brown,  red,  and  yellowish  sands, 
through  which  the  running  waters  percolate  as  through  a  sieve. 

East  of  the  bas^in  the  relief  is  less  regular  than  on  the  west  side,  the  border 
chains  being  disposed  lefs  uniformly,  but  at  some  points  attaining  a  greater 
altitude.  The  amphitheatre  of  hills  south  of  Lake  Bnngweolo  culminat<"s  in  the 
I^okinga  peaks,  which  are  said  to  rcnge  from  8,000  to  10,000  feet,  and  which  are 
connected  by  lateral  spurs  with  the  Viano  hills,  pierced  by  the  Lua-Tiaba  and 
continued  north-eastwards  in  the  direction  of  Tanganyika.  South  of  the  Viano 
terraces  the  Lokinga  mountains  fall  gradually  north-eastwards,  merging  at  last  in 


V j u'rl^ \iM «  '"'^'j'tf ffly'i i 'iiili'itiiifi'yyii^j I  - 


486 


WEST  AFRICA. 


lU 


the  uplan'l  plains  traversed  by  the  Lua-Ngua  affluent  of  the  Zambese,  and  bj'  the 
Tohassi-Tchambeze  main  branch  of  the  Upper  Congo.  These  plains,  dotted  over 
with  clumps  of  trees,  stretch  away  beyond  the  horizon  without  any  apparent 
eminences  higher  than  anthills. 

Beyond  Tanganyika  the  region  of  the  waterparting  between  the  Congo  and 
the  streams  flowing  to  the  Indian  Ocean  is  continued  northwards  by  hilly  plat«aux 
intersected  by  irregular  ranges,  rising  to  a  height  of  nearly  7,000  feet  between 
Lakes  Tanganyika  and  Rikwah,  and  even  farther  north  maintaining  elevations  of 
4,000,  5,000  and  5,600  feet  in  the  U-Nyamezi  country.  Still  more  lofty  are  the 
uplands  stretching  thence  north-eastwards  between  Lakes  Victoria  Nyauza  and 
Muta-N'zige,  where  rises  the  three-crested  Mfumbiro,  source  of  numerous  head- 
waters of  the  Kagera  main  branch  of  the  Upper  Nile,  and.  still  farther  north  the 
Eibanga  and  Gambaragara  Mountains  seen  from  a  distance  by  Stanley  and  others, 
and  by  them  estimated  at  over  10,000  feet. 

In  the  north-east  the  divide  between  the  Congo  and  the  White  Nile  headstreams 
is  faintly  indicated  by  a  few  undulations  of  the  surface,  or  isolated  hills  rising  1,500 
or  1,600  feet  above  the  surrounding  plains.  A  like  aspect  is  probably  presented 
by  the  Congo-Shari  waterparting,  so  that  the  Central  African  depression  would 
appear  to  have  been  continuous  from  the  dried-up  Congo  lacustrine  basin  to  the 
still  flooded  Tsad  depression,  which  is  known  to  be  a  mere  remnant  of  a  far  more 
extensive  inland  sea.  But  whether  the  two  basins  are  connected  or  not  by 
intermediate  plains,  a  part  of  the  region  is  occupied  either  by  isolated  heights, 
such  as  Mount  Mendif,  or  by  less  elevated  continuous  ranges.  South  of  the  Welle 
rises  a  group  of  isolated  eminences  to  which  the  traveller  Potagos  has  gireu  the 
name  of  the  George  Mountains,  and  the  course  of  the  TJ-Banghi  is  confined 
between  lofty  walls,  which  seen  from  the  lower  reaches  present  the  aspect  of  the 
Pyrenees  as  beheld  from  the  plains  of  Gascony. 


CuiMATE. 

In  the  Congo  basin  the  mean  temperature,  lowered  on  the  seaboard  by  the 
influence  of  the  cool  marine  coast  stream,  is  never  excessive,  seldom  rising  above 
91°  F.,  even  in  the  hottest  months,  from  January  to  April.  What  renders  the 
climate  trying  to  Europeans  is  its  great  humidity  rather  than  the  tropical 
heats.  In  the  lower  Congo  regions  the  glass  falls  at  times  as  low  as  63''  F., 
showing  an  annual  range  of  nearly  forty  degrees  between  the  extremes  of  heat  and 
cold.  On  the  plateaux  it  is  even  more  considerable,  here  travellers  complaining 
of  temperatures  of  98"  F.  and  upwards  followed  by  cool  and  even  chilly  nights. 
Cameron  found  that  water  froze  during  the  night  on  the  plateaux  about  the  sources 
of  the  Eassai,  while  Ponel  recorded  a  fiery  temperature  of  109°  F.  on  the  banks  of 
the  U-Banghi.  .  <  ^,     -   ,V:  :>.,,« 

The  Congo  basin  lies  entirely  within  the  zone  of  the  south-east  trade-winds, 
which  prevail  in  the  interior  wherever  the  normal  direction  is  not  disturbed  by 
the  trend  of  the  mountain  ranges.     In  the  south  they  take  a  northerly  direction, 


ise,  and  by  the 

19,  dotted  over 

any  apparent 

le  Congo  and 

hilly  plateaux 

feet  between 

elevations  of 

lofty  are  the 

Nyanza  and 

umerous  head- 

ther  north  the 

ley  and  others, 

ile  headstreams 
lis  rising  l,oOO 
ably  presented 
pression  would 
le  basin  to  the 
.  of  a  far  more 
:ted  or  not  by 
lolated  heights, 
th  of  the  Welle 
}  has  given  the 
^hi  is  confined 
e  aspect  of  the 


leaboard  by  the 
m  rising  above 
bat  renders  the 
n  the  tropical 
low  as  53»  F., 
mes  of  heat  and 
>rs  complaining 
.  chilly  nights. 
)out  the  sources 
)n  the  banks  of 

st  trade-winds, 
it  disturbed  by 
herly  direction, 


FLORA  OF  THE  CONGO  BASIN. 


487 


following  the  parallel  river  valleys  of  that  region,  while  in  the  west,  as  far  as  and 
beyond  the  U-Bunghi  confluence,  they  are  similarly  changed  to  south-western  or 
even  western  monsoons.  They  prevail  especially  in  the  dry  season,  acquiring  their 
greatest  intensity  in  September  and  March,  that  is,  in  the  months  preceding  the 
two  rainy  periods.  Thunderstonns  are  developed  chiefly  in  the  east,  so  that  their 
])rogress  is  most  commonly  from  the  interior  towards  the  Atlantic  seaboard. 

As  in  the  Gaboon  and  Ogoway  valleys,  there  are  two  wet  seasons,  the  first 
lasting  from  October  to  the  end  of  December,  the  second  and  heavier  from  the 
middle  of  February  to  May,  followed  by  an  intensely  dry  period  to  the  end  of 
September,  when  scarcely  a  drop  of  water  falls  in  a  great  part  of  the  basin.  Hut 
the  rains  diminish  rapidly  south  of  the  Congo  estuary,  while  increasing  from  the 
coast  towards  the  interior.  In  the  region  of  calms  under  the  equator  it  rains 
throughout  the-j'ear,  although  the  principal  wet  season  coincides  here  also  with 
the  winter  months.  In  December,  1882,  a  violent  thunderstorm  was  accompanied 
by  a  tremendous  downpour  of  4  inches  within  three  hours,  while  in  the  disastrous 
years  1872  and  1874  the  whole  rainfall  fell  short  of  8  inches,  these  remarkable 
droughts  being  followed  by  widespread  famine. 

The  fogs  and  overcast  skies,  caused  by  excessive  moisture  in  the  wet  seasons, 
are  often  intensified  by  the  conflagrations  of  the  glassy  steppes,  where  the  com- 
bustion is  calculated  by  Von  Danckelmann  to  represent  a  mass  of  "160  tons  per 
square  mile.  Hence  the  quantity  of  scrub,  brushwood,  and  vegetation  of  all 
kinds  consumed  by  these  fires  must  be  estimated  at  millions  of  tons,  filling  the 
atmosphere  with  dense  smoke  for  many  miles  in  all  directions. 

.  Flora  and  Fai/na. 

Nevertheless  the  general  absence  of  trees  and  prevalence  of  tall  grasses  in  so 
many  parts  of  the  Congo  basin  is  to  be  attributed  not  so  much  to  these  conflagra- 
tions as  to  the  lack  of  sufficient  moisture  to  support  extensive  forest  growths. 
The  dense  woodlands  of  the  Gaboon  and  Ogoway  regions  are  gradually  replaced 
southwards  by  treeless  savannahs,  except  along  the  river  banks,  which  are  every- 
where fringed  by  narrow  belts  of  timber,  matted  together  by  gigantic  creepers. 
Even  on  the  northern  slope  of  the  plateau  forming  th^  divide  between  the  Congo 
and  Zombese  basins,  the  same  contrast  is  presented  between  the  treeless  uplands 
and  the  exuberant  vegetation  of  the  riverain  tracts.  Herd  the  more  abundant 
moisture  is  carried  off  to  the  deep  river  gorges  so  rapidly  that  the  rocky  slopes  and 
uplands  are  unable  to  support  anything  ex(;ept  a  stunted  and  almost  leafless  scrub, 
or  a  scanty  herbaceous  vegetation,  and  are  in  some  places  even  completely  destitute 
of  verdure.  v  >  ■'^     ,    «    - 

But  at  the  issue  of  the  parallel  fluvial  valleys  south  of  the  Congo,  the 
abundantly  watered  plains  are  covered  with  palms,  baobabs,  and  other  large  forest 
growths.  Nearly  all  the  semicircle  limited  north  by  the  great  curve  of  the  main- 
stream and  south  by  the  Eassai  and  Sankuru  rivers,  presents  the  aspect  of  a 
boundless  forest  interrupted  here  and  there  by  swampy  tracts,  savannahs,  and  the 


mmm 


488 


WEST  AFEICA, 


clearings  round  the  villages.  But  the  eastern  uplimds,  like  those  of  the  west, 
show  no  continuous  woodlands  except  in  the  bottom  lands  where  are  collected  the 
streams  descending  from  the  hillsides,  and  in  the  districts  of  the  equatorial  zone 
exposed  to  a  copious  rainfall.     Farther  south  nothing  is  seen  except  grassy  tracts 


Fig,    218. — F0KEST8  OF  THE   PABAIXEIi  AFFLUENTS  OF  THE  KaBSAI. 
Soale  1 :  l,O0O,0O(k 


so  Miles. 


studded  with  clusters  of  trees  like  the  English  parks,  long  avenues  of  timtcr 
overshadowing  the  running  waters,  or  else  absolutely  treeless  steppe-lands. 

Notwithstanding  its  vast  extent,  the  Congo  basin,  presenting  everywhere 
nearly  the  same  climatic  conditions,  is  characterised  by  a  rt markable  uniformity 
in  its  vegetable  and  animal  species.  Here  the  waterpartings  in  many  places 
coincide  with  the  limits  of  the  botanical  /ones,  and  Schweinfurth  and  Junker 
found  that  north  of  the  divide  between  the  White  Nile  and  the  Congo  the  oil-palm, 
laphia,  pandanus,  kola-nut  disappear,  which  are  so  characteristic  of  the  central 


-3C- 


INHABITANTS  OF  THE  CONGO. 


iQd 


of  the  west, 

collected  the 

quatoriul  zone 

t  grassy  tracts 


1 

7« 

A 

MOI 

\ 

o 

•». 

« 

« 

8° 

\ 

nucs  of  tinifcfr 
le-lands. 
ng  everywhere 
able  unifonnily 
in  many  places 
ih  and  Junker 
;o  the  oil-palm, 
of  the  central 


regions  south  of  that  line.  South  of  the  Upper  Conj'o  heudstreams  the  oil-palm  is 
in  the  same  way  arrested  by  the  waterparting  towards  the  Zumbose,  and  in  the 
Congo  Valley  by  the  Hrst  slopes  of  the  Angolan  plateaux. 

The  general  equality  of  the  climate,  which  has  imparted  a  certain  uniformity 
to  the  spontaneous  flora  of  the  Congo  basin,  has  also  enabled  the  inhabitants 
everywhere  to  introduce  nearly  the  same  cultivated  plants,  such  as  manioc, 
millet,  the  banana,  tobacco,  hemp,  fhe  pineapple,  and  sugar-cane.  The  coffee- 
plant,  as  well  as  the  vine  and  orange,  have  bi-en  found  growing  wild  in  the  central 
forest  region  on  the  banks  of  the  Congo  and  Kassai. 

The  local  fauna  scarcely  differs  from  that  of  the  Atlantic  seaboard  in  the 
Ogoway,  Gaboon,  and  Cameroons  districts.  The  elephant,  rare  in  the  hunting- 
grounds,  is  still  very  common  in  the  greater  part  of  the  country  ;  the  manatee  of 
the  estuary  is  replaced  higher  up  by  multitudes  of  hipirapotamusee,  so  numerous 
in  some  rivers  as  to  impede  the  navigation.  The  chimpanzee  inhabits  the  Congo 
forests  as  far  north-eastwards  as  the  limits  of  the  oil-palm  and  raphia,  so  that  he 
does  not  appear  to  penetrate  into  the  Nile  basin,  nor  southwards  beyond  the  Lower 
Congo  into  Angola.  In  general  the  contrasts  observed  in  the  animal  kingdom 
depend  primarily  on  the  distribution  of  plants.  Thus  the  western  savannahs, 
frequently  wasted  by  fire,  are  almost  uninhabited,  containing  neither  quadrupeds, 
reptiles  nor  birds,  while  the  eastern  park-lands  teem  with  animal  life.  In  certain 
districts  not  yet  visited  by  the  hunter,  the  camping-grounds  of  travellers  are 
surrounded  by  numerous  herds  of  elephants,  buffaloes,  and  antelopes. 

""  ■  Inhabitants.      \^  ' 

The  Congo  ba^in  everywhere  belongs  to  populations  of  Buntu  speech,  except  in 
a  few  enclaves  occupied  by  conquered  aborigines,  and  in  the  north-eastern  regions 
held  by  the  Niam-Niam,  Monbuttu,  and  other  Negro  peoples  that  have  been 
wrongly  classed  with  the  Nub'i  group.  (M  the  other  hand,  the  domain  of  the 
Bantu  languages,  which  reaches  soutliwards  to  Cape  Colony,  also  extends  in  the 
north  and  north-east  into  the  Nile  basin,  where  it  encircles  the  whole  of  Lake 
Victoria  Nyanza.  .    .;  ^•■'^£ i£. 

But  although  the  Congo  populations  possess  linguistic  unity,  they  differ 
greatly  in  their  physical  appearance  and  social  usages.  While  most  of  the  Bantus 
(Ba-ntu,  A-ba-ntu,  that  is,  "men  "),  appear  to  be  clearly  distinguished  from  the 
Negroes  proper  by  their  complexion,  features,  shape  of  the  skidl  and  carriage,  the 
transitions  are  nevertheless  extremely  gradual  in  the  Congo  regions,  where  no 
pure  types  are  found.  The  races  have  been  constantly  modified  by  incessant  inter- 
mingling, while  the  common  Bantu  speech  has  remained  nearly  unchanged. 
Even  within  the  historic  period,  conquering  peoples  have  swept  over  the  laud, 
subduing  and  merging  with  the  aboriginal  elements.  Tribal  migrations  and 
fresh  ethnical  groupings  have  also  been  caused  by  flood?,  famines,  slave-hunting 
expeditions ;  and  to  these  causes  of  confusion  must  be  added  the  exogamous  or 
extra-tribal  marriages  prevalent  amongst  many  communities.      The  least  mixed 


MiMiiHi 


440 


WEST  AFRICA. 


•'% 


\iM}i 


peoples  appear  to  be  the  dwarfish  races  variously  known  as  Akkas  or  Tiki-Tikis, 
Vua-  Twas  or  Ba-Twas. 

Sufficient  materials  have  not  yet  been  collected  to  enable  philologists  to  offer 
a  satisfactory  classification  of  the  forty  or  fift)'  distinct  Bantu  idioms  current  in 
the  Congo  basin.  The  ethnical  prefixes  Ba,  Ma,  Ova,  Wa,  Vua,  M,  Tu,  Mu,  may 
doubtless  indicate  a  certain  relationship  between  the  several  groups  so  indicated, 
but  such  indications  are  far  from  sufficient  to  serve  as  the  basis  even  of  an 
iipproximate  classification,  so  that  all  attempts  in  this  direction  caii  for  the  present 
claim  nothing  more  than  a  provisional  value. 

At  the  same  time,  amid  this  chaos  of  ethnical  elements,  certain  groups  stand 
out  more  prominently  as  at  present  distinguished,  either  by  their  warlike  character 
or  commercial  enterprise.  Thus  the  Nyamezi  to  the  east,  and  the  Rua  to  the 
west  of  Tanganyika,  serve  as  the  chief  forwarders  of  the  international  traffic 
between  the  eastern  seaboard  and  the  Congo  basin.  The  Reggas  also  occupy  u 
vast  territory  between  the  great  river  and  liake  Mutu  Nzig^,  while  the  Ba-Lolo 
are  widely  distributed  along  the  banks  of  all  the  affluents  within  the  great  curve 
described  by  the  Congo  north  of  the  equator.  The  Tu-Shilonge,  proud  of  their 
higher  culture,  hold  the  region  where  the  Lu  Lua  and  Kassai  enter  the  wooded 
plains,  while  the  Lunda  predominate  about  the  southern  affluents  of  the  Kassai. 
Higher  up  follow  the  Kioko,  enterprising  traders,  who  push  their  expeditions  from 
the  Atlantic  to  the  great  equatorial  lakes.  On  the  Congo  where  it  begins  to  trend 
towards  the  south-west,  the  most  energetic  and  warlike  people  are  the  Ba-Ngala. 
Lower  down  the  dominant  nations  are  the  Bu-Banghi,  who  give  their  name  to 
the  U-Banghi  river,  the  Ba-Teke  above  Stanley  Pool,  the  Wa-Buma  of  the  Lower 
Kassai,  and  the  Ba-Fiot,  better  known  as  the  Congolese,  from  the  Ba-Congo 
division  of  this  group,  who  dwelt  on  the  Lower  Congo,  and  who  have  long  main- 
tained direct  commercial  relations  with  the  Europeans.  A  characteristic  trait  of 
the  eastern  populations  is  their  love  of  personal  ornament,  which  is  gradually 
replaced  by  amulets  and  fetishes. 

Notwithstanding  the  assumed  incapacity  of  the  Negro  peoples  to  develop  ex- 
tensive political  systems,  some  large  Bantu  states  have  been  founded  within  as 
well  as  beyond  the  Congo  basin.  At  the  arrival  of  the  Portuguese,  towards  the 
end  of  the  fifteenth  century,  both  sides  of  the  estuary  as  well  as  a  large  part  of  the 
southern  plateau  recognised  a  sovereign  who  resided  in  a  capital  now  known  by 
the  Portuguese  name  of  San  Salvador.  In  the  region  watered  by  the  Kassai 
affluents  the  political  preponderance  belongs  to  the  Lunda  nation,  whose  king, 
the  Muata  Yamvo,  receives  the  tribute  of  hundreds  of  vassals  scattered  over  a 
territory  as  large  as  France.  Towards  the  Lua-Pula  headstreams  stretches  another 
great  kingdom,  that  of  the  Muata  Kazerabe,  who  appears  at  the  end  of  the  last 
century  to  have  enjoyed  the  supremacy  over  the  neighbouring  states.  Westwards, 
also,  the  Upper  liUa-Laba  and  Lu-Fira  basins  constitute  the  domain  of  the  Msiri,  at 
present  a  still  more  powerful  sovereign.  Farther  north,  in  the  region  where  the^e 
various  streams  converge  to  form  the  Congo,  the  tribes  are  grouped  politically 
under  the  common  suzerainty  of  the  King  of  Kassongo.     At  the  same  time  the 


Tais:. 


■namnipa 


or  Tiki-Tikis, 

ogists  to  offer 
)m8  current  in 
Tu,  Mu,  may 
s  80  indicated, 
8  even  of  an 
lor  the  present 

1  groups  stand 
rlike  character 
le  Rua  to  the 
lational  traffic 

also  occupy  a 
le  the  Ba-Lolo 
;hc  great  curve 
proud  of  their 
ter  the  wooded 

of  the  Kassai. 
ipeditions  from 
begins  to  trend 
I  the  Ba-Ngala. 
e  their  name  to 
la  of  the  Lower 

the  Ba- Congo 
ave  long  main- 
cteristic  trait  of 
ch  is  gradually 

i  to  develop  ex- 
nded  within  as 
se,  towards  the 
arge  part  of  the 
now  known  by 
by  the  Kassai 
on,  whose  king, 
scattered  over  a 
itretches  another 
end  of  the  last 
es.  Westwards, 
1  of  the  Msiri,  at 
»ion  where  these 
niped  politically' 


same  time  the 


INHABITANTS  OF  THE  CONGO. 


441 


political  ties  must  necessarily  be  somewhat  lax  in  these  regions,  where  the  com- 
munications are  extremely  difficult,  and  where  the  subject  tribes  may  easily  migrate 
from  clearing  to  clearing.  Hence  these  associations  constitute  rather  a  confederacy 
of  petty  autonomous  republics  than  monarchical  states  in  the  strict  sense  of  the 
term. 

The  arrival  of  the  Arabs  on  the  east  and  of  the  Knropeans  on  the  west  coast 
has  naturally  tended  much  to  bring  about  the  work  of  disintegration,  by  which  the 
inland  states  have  been  gradually  modifted.  Thus  the  intervention  of  the 
Portuguese  ultimately  effected  the  ruin  of  the  Congo  empire,  notwithstanding  its 
great  political  cohesion.  In  these  historic  transformations,  stimulated  by  the 
presence  of  the  foreigner  on  the  seaboard,  the  elements  of  good  and  evil  become 
strangely  and  diversely  intermingled.  While  certain  tribes,  exposed  to  the 
raids  of  slave -hunters,  relapsed  into  a  state  of  profound  degradation  and  savagery, 
the  Congolese  peoples  generally  became  enriched  by  the  development  of  agricul- 
ture. The  introduction  of  maize,  manioc,  and  other  alimentary  plants,  is  one  of 
the  chief  henefits  conferred  by  Europeans  on  the  natives,  more  than  compensating 
for  the  evils  caused  by  the  sale  of  firearms  and  spirits.  Four  centuries  ago  the 
Congo  tribes  lived  mainly  by  hunting  wild  beasts  and  man  himself,  by  fishing,  or 
at  most  a  rudimentary  agriculture,  whereas  they  now  depend  altogether  on  a  well- 
developed  system  of  husbandry,  enabling  them  to  increase  tenfold  without  exhaust- 
ing the  fertile  soil. 

Had  European  influence  in  the  Congo  regions  been  represented  by  traders 
alone,  the  part  played  by  them  in  the  history  of  Africa  could  have  scarcely  been 
inferior  to  that  of  the  Arab  dealers.  But  before  Stan'ey's  journey  across  the 
continent  their  factories  were  confined  to  the  low-lying  region  of  the  estuary, 
while  the  Zanzibar  Arabs  freely  penetrated  beyond  Tanganyika,  800  or  900  miles 
from  the  Indian  Ocean.  Stanley,  Cameron,  and  many  other  European  explorers 
were  fain  to  avail  themselves  of  their  services,  but  for  which  the  Cong^  basin 
would  still  be  an  unknown  region.  When  Stanley  resolved  to  push  wentwards 
along  the  lino  of  the  main  stream,  he  was  accompanied  as  far  as  the  Falls  by  the 
Arab  Tippo-Tip  at  the  head  of  seven  hundred  men,  and  it  was  by  the  co-operation 
of  the  same  slave-dealer  that  he  was  afterwards  enabled  to  organise  the  expedition 
for  the  relief  of  Emin  Pasha  in  the  Upper  Nile  valle}'.  The  Arabs  above  all  others 
have  hitherto  benefited  by  the  European  discoveries  in  the  Upper  Congo  basin, 
where  their  caravans  now  penetrate  victoriously  into  the  vast  region  lying  between 
the  Nilotic  lakes  and  the  Lo-Mami  river.  But  their  tracing  stations  scattered  over 
the  country  deal  not  only  in  ivory  and  other  local  produce,  but  also  and  chiefly  in 
slaves.  Taking  advantage  of,  and  even  fomenting  the  petty  intertribal  wars,  they 
procure  the  captives  on  easy  terms,  distributing  th(m  as  so  much  merchandise 
thfoughout  the  markets  of  the  i^terior  and  even  on  tho  seaboard.  But  they 
reserve  the  young  men,  arming  them  wit)i  rifles  and  thus  maintaining  bands  of 
combatants  irresistible  to  the  surrounding  populations,  rudely  equipped  and  lack- 
ing all  political  coherence.  Hence  the  great  material  advantages  enjoyed  by  the 
Arabs  over  their  European  rivals,  who  are  compelled  to  d^al  with  freemen  and  to 

92_ 


442    .  WEST  AFRICA. 

pay  dearly  for  the  transport  of  goods.     The  Zanzihar  Arabs  may,  in  fact,  be  said 


to  have  constituted  in  the   Upper  Congo  regions  a  new  empire,  some  hundred 


mmm^imm, 


n  fact,  be  said 


,  some  hundred 


THE  CONGO  FREE  STATE. 


448 


thousand  square  miles  in  extent,  but  without  offieiiil  recognition,  because 
depending  for  the  movement  of  exchanges  on  the  Sultanate  of  Zanzibar.  With- 
out a  seaport  on  the  Indian  Ocean  the  Aiabs  conld  not  possibly  ma'-itain  their 
footing  in  the  country,  were  their  ivory  trade  with  Bombay  permanently  inter- 
rupted. 

The  Congo  Free  Siate. 

The  committee  established  under  the  presidency  of  the  King  of  the  Belgians 
after  Stanley's  expedition  of  1878,  for  the  purpose  of  studying  the  relations  in  the 

~  Fig.  220.— Zone  Open  to  Fbek  Tbabb  im  ibb  Comoo  Baun. 

Soato  1 :  ao.OOO.OOOi 


lOOOHUefk 


Upper  Congo,  was  soon  transformed  into  the  "Congo  International  Association," 
which  undertook  the  lofty  mission  of  conquering  the  country  by  peaceful  means, 
suppressing  slavery,  encouraging  legitimate  trade,  and  fostering  a  feeling  of 
brotherhood  between  the  European  pioneers  and  the  native  populations.  But 
before  this  mission  was  well  commenced  the  Association  assumed  the  crown,  so  to 
say,  by  transforming  itself  in  1884  into  a  monarchy  to  the  benefit  of  its  royal 
founder.  V  '?  ^ 

The  new  empire,  entitled  the  "Congo  Free  State,"  is  limited  southwards 
by  the  estuary,  and  thence  by  a  geometrical  line  drawn  to  the  Kwango,  some 
12  miles  north  of  the  sixth  parallel  of  south  latitude,  which  porallel  it  thence- 


;^rg'iiii-'  ii<r.Vii'  iiiii^w-^ifeiii'i'iiftiiiiiliiiB' 


414 


WEST  AFRICA. 


forth  follows  to  the  Lxi-Bilash,  or  Upper  Sjukuru  river.  At  this  point  the 
conventional  frontier,  drawn  across  unexplored  or  little  known  regions,  trends 
southwards  along  the  Lu-Hilash  valley  towards  its  source  on  the  plateau,  heyond 
the  Congo-Zambese  divide,  following  the  left  side  of  Luke  Bangweolo  and  the 
Lua-1'ula  valley  lo  Lake  Moero,  and  thence  in  a  straight  line  to  Cameron  Bay,  at 
the  south-west  extremity  of  Tanganyika.  From  this  point  it  runs  nearly  due 
north  along  the  west  side  of  Tanganyika  and  east  of  Luke  Muta-N'zige  to 
4°  N.  latitude,  which  has  been  adopted  as  its  northern  limit,  westwards  to  the 
U-Buiighi  river,  which,  with  the  right  bank  of  the  Congo  as  far  as  Manyanga, 
separates  the  new  slate  towords  the  west  from  the  French  possession^.  Below 
Manyanga,  a  tortuous  line  passing  south  of  the  sources  of  the  Niari  and  its 
affluents  westwards  to  the  coast  betwe?n  Cabinda  and  Banana,  completes  the  vast 
periphery  of  the  Congo  State,  which  comprises  about  half  of  the  fluvial  basin,  or 
780,000  square  miles  in  superficial  extent.  But  of  this  vast  domain,  only  a  few 
riverain  stations  have  been  oeeupied,  such  as  Ba-Ngala  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Congo  in  the  territory  of  the  Ba-Ngula  nation,  and  Luluaburg,  on  the  Lua-Luu 
aflluont  of  the  Kassai 

The  rest  of  the  Congo  basin  is  also  distributed  amongst  European  Powers, 
Germany  claiming  all  that  part  of  East  Africa  confined  north-west  and  south  by 
Lakes  Victoria,  Tanganyika,  and  Nyassa,  from  this  vast  strategic  base  command- 
ing at  once  the  L^pper  Nile,  Zambese,  and  Congo  basins.  France  possesses  the 
part  of  the  basin  lying  between  the  Upper  U-Banghi  and  Manyanga,  while 
Portugal  has  officially  occupied  all  the  territory  watered  by  the  affluents  of  the 
Lower  Congo  and  of  the  Kwango,  south  of  the  Free  State.  The  latter  power 
also  regards  herself  as  the  future  "protector  "  of  the  Lunda  State,  ua  well  as  of 
the  southern  part  of  the  basin  not  yet  distributed  amongst  the  European  States. 
But  all  the  Congo  States  alike,  as  well  as  those  in  the  east  draining  to  the  Indian 
Ocean,  between  the  Zambese  and  the  fifth  parallel  of  north  latitude,  are  declared 
open  to  the  trade  of  the  world.  All  flags  without  distinction  of  nationality  have 
henceforth  free  access  to  the  whole  seaboard  of  these  territories,  as  well  as  to  the 
rivers  discharging  into  the  surrounding  waters.  All  dii¥erential  charges  are 
interdicted  in  respect  of  shipping,  and  all  imported  merchandise  is  free  of  entry 
and  transit  dues. 


LUA-PULA   AND   Lua-LaBA   BaSINS.  k  /      ' 

This  region,  in  which  the  upper  affluents  forming  the  Congo  descend  more 
than  half  the  fluvial  slope  from  6,000  to  2,000  feet,  had  already  been  visited  by 
Lacerda  towards  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century.  But  his  journey,  like  those 
of  other  Portuguese  explorers,  attracted  little  attention,  and  the  country  continued 
to  be  unknown  until  revealed  to  the  outer  world  by  Livingstone's  memorable 
expeditions.  This  jnoneer  (1869-1873)  was  succeeded  by  others,  such  as  Cameron 
(1874),  Giraud  (1884),  Cupello  and  Ivens  (1885),  whose  itineraries  have  been  con- 
nected at  various  points.  .  ,    ■  •  ^       ,:    ■     V       -.;v;?f.:,'\ 


-^i:^ 


■Wl" 


is  point  the 

pons,  trends 

teuu,  beyond 

olo  and  the 

leron  Buy,  at 

8  nearly  due 

ita-N'zige  to 

wards  to  the 

Manyunga, 

lont".     Below 

iari  and   its 

etes  the  vast 

vial  basin,  or 

n,  only  a  few 

t  bank  of  the 

the  Lua-Lua 

pean  Powers, 
and  south  by 
ase  command- 
possesses  the 
lyanga,   while 
fluents  of  the 
!  latter  power 
,  ua  well  as  of 
ropean  States. 
•  to  the  Indian 
e,  are  declared 
itionality  have 
well  as  to  the 
il  charges  are 
)  free  of  entry 


descend  more 
een  visited  by 
ney,  like  those 
itry  continued 
j's  memorable 
ch  as  Cameron 
iiave  been  cou- 


teiv.M!vUUPI!li    "HUUiW'    '■ 


THE  BEMBA  STATE. 


445 


The  plutcuu  sloping  s'»uthv'ards,  on  which  rise  the  headwaters  of  the  Tcham- 
bezi,  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  the  Bemba  nation  (Ba-Kniba,  Mu-Emba,  Lo-Bemba, 
Vua-Emba).  At  the  time  of  Giraud's  visit,  in  1884,  the  Bemba  empire  stretched 
north  to  Tanganyika,  east  to  Nyassa,  west  to  Baugweolo  and  Moero,  the  whole  of 
the  intorlacustrine  space  north  of  the  uplands  held  by  the  Wa-Bi/a  being  com- 
prised within  its  limits.  Even  the  Ka/embe,  whose  anc-estors  hud  ruled  over  a 
great  part  of  Central  Africa,  as  well  as  tue  formerly  powerful  Wa-Biza,  south  of 
the  Tchambesi,  hud  been  "  eaten,"  us  the  natives  express  it. 

The  capital  of  the  Bemba  state,  situated  on  the  plain  north  of  the  extensive 
marshlands  traversed  by  the  Tchambezi,  comprised  in   1884  some  four  or  five 

Fig.  221.— Chief  Routks  of  Explohebs  in  the  Uppee  Congo  Basin. 

Soala  1 :  10,000,000. 


la- 


I 


^- 


\ 


t 


■ :   ■^^'^•-—■'-''Jr 


--.11 


.-r"  \ 


•.. ^!^^frf^..-^ 


-ri'--A 


IS" 


25* 


50° 


East  of  Gf'eenwich, 


180  MilPi. 


hundred  huts,  covering  too  large  a  space  to  be  entirely  enclosed  by  palisades,  like 
the  other  villages.  In  these  regions  the  villages  take  the  names  of  the  ruling 
chiefs,  and  the  capital,  at  that  time  called  Kffimkttrii^s,  is  now  known  as  Maru- 
kidu'a.  Incessant  wars  have  to  a  great  extent  depopulated  the  country  ;  hamlets 
are  rare,  and  in  some  districts  are  exposed  to  the  constant  ul tucks  of  marauders, 
80  that  the  wretched  peasants  prefer  camping  amid  the  anthills,  and  stealthily 
cultivating  the  land.  When  corn  failH,  they  full  bock  on  mushrooms,  roots,  bark, 
and  boiled  foliage. 

The  Ba-Bemba,  physically  one  of  the  finest  Bantu  peoples,  wear  skins  and 
bast  when  unable  to  procure  woven  goods  from  the  Arab  traders,  and  all  delight 


•:.%■ 


446 


WEST  AFRICA. 


in  elegant  tattoo  designs  and  elaborate  head -drosses,  built  up  with  clay  and 
terminating  in  coronets  or  sharp  radiating  points.  They  are  skilful  craftsmen, 
but  subi't'ct  to  the  capricu  of  their  rulers,  who  mutilate  slaves  and  freemen  alike, 
and  surround  themselves  with  bands  of  musicians,  composed  almost  tiAclusively  of 
eunuchs,  the  blind,  and  maimed.  The  approach  to  most  villages  is  marked  by 
grinning  skulls  stuck  on  tall  stakes.  The  symbol  of  the  royal  power  consists  in 
red  glassware  covering  a  great  part  of  the  king's  person,  and  imported  by 
Nyamezi  triiders,  who  take  in  exchange  elephants'  tusks  of  small  size,  but  of 
extremely  tine  texture.  These  dealers  have  introduced  many  usages  of  Arab 
origin. 

The  Wa-Biza  and  Kissinoa  Tbrritories. 

The  Wa-Biza  and  Ilala,  who  have  maintained  tht-ir  independence  against  the 
Ba-Bembu  in  the  islands  and  morasses  of  Bangweolo  and  neighbouring  rugged 
upland  valleys,  constitute  a  group  of  petty  republican  states,  which  are  constantly 
on  their  guard  against  the  attacks  of  the  common  enenjy.  This  district  teems 
with  multitudes  of  large  game,  the  very  horizon  being  shut  out  in  some  directions 
by  vast  herds  of  many  thousand  antelopes.  South  of  the  marshlands  lies  the 
village  of  Tchitambo,  in  the  Ilala  territory,  where  Livingstone  died  on  May  1st, 
1873. 

On  the  return  of  the  caravan  which  conveyed  the  remains  of  Livingstone  ta 
the  coast,  the  western  shores  of  Bangweolo  were  held  by  the  Wa-Biza,  who,  how- 
over,  have  since  been  either  exterminated  or  reduced  to  a  state  of  vassalage  by  the 
Vua-Ussi  conquerors  from  the  south.  But  the  progress  of  these  intruders  has 
been  arreste<l  by  the  valiant  Vua-Kissinga  nation,  which  holds  its  own  on  the 
north  side  of  the  lake  both  against  the  Ba-Baraba  in  the  east  and  the  Vua-Ussi 
in  the  west.  On  one  of  the  eastern  affluents  of  the  LuM-Pula  in  this  district  are 
situated  the  copper  mines  which  have  been  worked  from  time  immemorial.  On 
their  return  from  the  interior  in  1885,  the  explorers  Capello  and  Ivens  endeavoured 
in  vain  to  cross  the  Lua-1'ula  and  penetrate  into  this  mining  district.  West  of 
the  river  they  found  the  whole  country  wasted  by  wars,  and  in  the  boundless 
forests  of  Kaponda  had  to  support  themselves  on  the  produce  of  the  chase. 


The  Muata  Kazemue's  Kingdom. 

The  Lunda  territory  south  of  Lake  Moero,  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Lunda 
empire  of  the  Muata  Yamvo  in  the  Kassai  basin,  constituted  about  the  middle  of 
the  century  a  powerful  kingdom  ruled  over  by  the  Muata  Kazembe,  that  is, 
"  Imperial  Lord,"  heir  of  the  ancient  Morupwe  kings,  who  were  regarded  in  the 
sixteenth  century  as  the  most  powerful  potentates  in  South  Africa.  But  when 
visited  in  1831  by  Monteiro  and  Gamitto  he  had  already  lost  all  control  over  his 
eastern  neighbours,  the  Wa-Bemba,  and  at  the  time  of  Livingstone's  visit  in  1867 
several  other  provinces  had  become  detached  from  his  empire.  At  present  he  is  a 
mere  vassal  of  his  OiJ  Ba-Eemba  subjects,  retaining,  however,  the  complicated 


■  iiBaiiiijiiiHWii"  - 


th  clay  and 
i\  craftsmen, 
roeinen  alike, 

xcliiwively  of 
is  inurktid  by 

■r  conHiNts  in 

imported   by 

size,  but  of 

ages  of  Arab 


ce  against  the 
)iiring  rugged 
are  constantly 
district  teems 
ome  directions 
lands  lies  the 
d  on  May  Ist, 

ivingstone  to 
iza,  who,  how- 
issulage  by  the 
I  intruders  hus 
ts  own  on  the 
i  the  Vua-Ussi 
his  district  are 
nemorial.  On 
IS  endeavoured 
rict.      West  of 

the  boundless 
chase. 


ivith  the  Lunda 
t  the  middle  of 
;embe,  that  is, 
Bgarded  in  the 
ca.  But  when 
control  over  his 
's  visit  in  1867 
present  he  is  a 
he  complicated 


4S^ 


THE  KAZEMBE. 


447 


ceremonial  of  the  old  court,  with  its  ministers,  ehauiberlains,  and  Ixwlygunrds. 
Before  his  tent  is  mounted  a  gun  draped  in  red,  a  great  fetish,  to  whicli  ull  way- 
farers have  to  pay  tribute.  Heads  stuck  on  stakes  round  the  royal  enclosure,  and 
numerous  mutilate<l  wretches  in  attendance  on  tlie  sijvereign,  serve  to  warn  his 
subjects  of  his  terrible  presence. 

When    visited  by    Laccrda  in   IT\)H,  the   Kiizoinbe's  capital,  which   formerly 
changed  with  every  reign,  was  situated  north  of  the  Mofwe,  a  southern  continuu- 

Fig.  222. — BuNKGYA  AND  THE  CoprER-MiNG  Reoion. 
Sojla  1  :  7«),000. 


bUM* 

Coppar  M/ams 

s 


/> 


omr  iV/i0S 


27' 


uaat  of  Grpifnwich 


e-'ao' 


.  ISUilM. 


tion  of  Lake  Moero.  The  present  Kozemhe,  aa  it  is  called  from  the  king's  title, 
lies  south  of  the  same  basin,  near  an  island  inhabited  by  the  Meseiras,  unmixed 
descendants  of  the  aborigines  conquered  by  the  ancestors  of  the  Kuzembe.  Lacerdu, 
one  of  the  first  martyrs  of  science  in  Central  Africa,  died  in  1798  at  Nshiuda 
{Luceiida)  near  Eazembe. 


1 


448 


WEST  AKUICA. 


TlIK    Msliu's   KlXCiDOM,    GxllANnAJA. 

At  present  tlio  most  powerful  ntato  in  the  Upper  Congo  rejrion  is  that  of  Msiri 
(Musiri),  a  chief  of  Nyuinezi  race,  whose  family  lately  reduced  all  the  tribes  along 

Fig.  '2'2;J.— Lake  Banowrolo  axd  thk  Lowkb  Lua-Laba,  AOOOHOiMa  to  LmKoaroini. 

Bcala  1  : 6,000,000. 


Itineniiy  of  Livingstone. 

_^____^_  ISC  HUm. 


the  Upper  Lua-Laba.  His  territory  stretches  northwards  to  Lake  Kassali  (Kikonja), 
under  the  eighth  parallel  of  south  latitude,  and  southwards  to  the  country  of  the 
I-Ilamba  or  Wa-Ramba,  who  occupy  the  Muxinga  (Mushinga)  highlands  between 
the  Congo  and  Zambese  basins.  This  region,  some  4,200  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
dominated  by  wooded  mountains  running  north-east  and  south-west,  is  a  picturesque 


that  of  Msiri 
ti-il>0H  along 


«(ISTONK, 


1 1 iiPti>ywi».PHlWii 


tali  (Kikonja), 
jountry  of  the 
lands  between 
sea-level,  and 
I  a  picturesque 


«*^ 


THE  RUA  HTATK. 


440 


and  milubrious  country,  perhaps  destined  to  hcconio  a  sanatorium  for  KiiroiM-an 
travellers.  M«iri'«  capital,  liunkoya  (llnlcoa,  Kimpatu),  a  j^reut  ivory  nuirkct  near  a 
small  western  atHucnt  of  the  Lu-Fira,  has  already  been  visitt'il  by  Ueichard, 
Capello,  and  Ivens,  who  howover  were  badly  received.  3Isiri,  who  lives  in  a  palace 
surrounded  by  human  skulls,  disposes  of  over  two  thousand  fusiliers,  whom  he 
leads  aj^ainst  the  jMiworful  Uua  (Vua-Kua,  L'-Uua)  nation,  oocupyinj?  to  the  north 
all  the  rojfion  stretching  beyond  litike  Lunji  to  the  shores  of  Tanganyika.  Msiri 
is  tt  cruel  ilesptjt  bearing  the  curious  Portuguese  title  of  Maria  Segnnda ;  and  his 
brother,  the  governor  of  Kupjuda,  is  a  still  more  Manguinary  ruler,  \v  hose  palace  is 
indicated  from  u  distance  by  piles  of  human  heads. 

The  population  of  Garangaja,  as  Msiri's  kingdom  is  called,  comprises  diverse 
elements  collectively  known  as  lia-Yeke  or  Ba-Yongo,  and  specially  noted  for  the 
great  defereimo  they  j)ay  to  their  women.  The  men  are  great  hunters,  always  clad 
in  skins,  and  armed  with  rifles  from  Angola  and  sharp-j)ointed  assegais  embellished 
with  copper  wire.  This  metal  occurs  in  great  abundance,  generally  under  the  form 
of  malachite,  tlie  chief  mines  being  those  of  Kataix/a,  a  three  days'  march  to  the 
east  of  Hunkeya.  liut  contrary  to  the  stu'ements  made  by  ihe  Arabs  to  Stanley, 
there  is  no  gold  in  the  mining  districts,  n'lbougu  copious  sulphurous  springs  are 
found  in  many  places. 

The  Rua  Ki.vodom. 

Livingstone  refers  frequently  to  the  country  of  the  Rua  p:f , ''e,  giving  fabulous 
details  and  a  geographical  relief  of  the  land  very  difft  -  i,t,  from  the  reality. 
Subsequent  explorers  have  ascertained  that  the  ijakf  Kamolondo  menti<  ed  by  him 
as  traversed  by  the  Lua-Luba  has  no  existence ;  but  tl)9  string  of  'aLos  forming 
the  Lua-Laba  takes  the  collective  name  of  Kamolondo,  and  forms  the  eastj'rn 
boundary  of  the  Rua  territory.  This  region,  which  was  traversed  from  north  f  . 
south  by  Cameron,  forms  the  empire  of  the  Kaseongo,  and  comprises  the  whole 
space  stretching  north  and  south  between  Msiri's  kingdom  and  the  tract  ruled  by 
the  Arabs  north  of  Lake  Lanji.  The  Eassongo's  tirritory  is  bounded  west  and 
east  by  the  Lo-Mami  rivrv  and  Lake  Tanganyika,  but  does  not  include  the 
U-Sambe  (U-Sambi),  who  dwell  west  of  the  Lo-Mami,  who,  however,  pay  tribute 
both  to  the  Eassongo  and  to  their  western  neighbour  the  Muata  Yamvo.  But  for 
all  that  they  do  not  escape  the  raids  of  the  Arab  or  half-caste  Portuguese  slave- 
hunters,  who  carry  off  their  woman      rl  burn  their  villages. 

The  kingdom  is  divided  into  disi..  .,  governed  each  by  d  kiloh,  who  is  either 
a  hereditary  chief  or  a  "  captain  "  appointed  for  a  term  of  four  years.  If  satisfied 
with  their  services,  the  king  pro-notes  them  to  a  higher  charge  ;  if  not,  they  are 
mutilated,  the  royal  usages  b'ing  no  less  cruel  here  than  in  the  neighbouring 
states.  In  U-Rua  two  punishments  alone  are  recognised — mutilation  and  death, 
and  near  the  kin^r's  residence  are  recesses  filled  with  human  heads.  '1  he  sovereign 
is  looked  on  as  a  god,  and  the  most  powerful  fetish  represents  the  founder  of  the 
dynasty.  This  fetish,  kept  in  a  forest,  which  not  even  the  wi'^  rds  may  enter,  is 
supposed  to  have  for  wife  the  king's  sister,  who  with  her  br    'ler  has  alone  the 


■iiMnrwmiVii  I 


iiiiiliiii'iiiiiiiifiii(l»iiiiriiiiiii iiliiiiwtn'i 


450 


WEST  AI'RICA. 


right  to  consult  the  tutelar  deity  in  cases  of  emergency.  In  virtue  of  his  divinity, 
the  ruler  of  U-Rua  is  also  theoretically  the  husband  of  all  his  female  subjects 
except  his  mother,  while  in  virtue  of  their  royal  blood  his  own  sons  are  allowed  to 
plunder  the  people  at  pleasure.  At  the  ruler's  death  a  number  of  his  women  are 
doomed  to  accompany  him  beyond  the  grave,  which  is  dug  in  the  bed  of  a  river 
diverted  from  its  course.  Here  is  first  killed  the  second  wife,  whose  duty  it  is  to 
watch  at  the  feet  of  the  dead ;  then  the  bottom  is  covered  with  living  women,  on 
whom  is  laid  the  corpse,  after  which,  on  the  closed  pit,  are  massacred  a  number  of 
slaves,  and  the  river  is  restored  to  its  bed,  so  that  the  last  resting-place  of  the 
dread  monarch  be  for  ever  concealed  from  mortal  eye.     Human  sacrifices  are  also 

Fig.  224. — Chief  Tbibes  in  the  Uppee  Congo  Basin. 
Boole  1 :  10,000,000. 


12- 


'l/\[.,.m^n^ 


^    TohHamlM''  ^ 

_£_ n'hi-nr;"'"-  '"-^ 


£5° 


50*       East  of  Greenwich 


180  Mile*. 


-\:  v*5.5--'<  -' ^/.tt./i  -'    ' •.*- 


made  for  secondary  chiefs,  while  the  common  people  are  thrown  into  the  bush,  or 
else  seated  in  a  grave  with  the  right  hand  index  finger  pointing  heavenwards. 

The  U-Rua  country  is  one  of  the  richest  in  the  interior  of  Afiica.  The  soil  is 
extremely  fertile,  and  in  the  mountains  are  found  deposits  of  iron,  cinnabar,  silver, 
and  even  rock-oil.  Most  of  the  natives  are  distinguishei  by  their  intelligence  and 
skill  as  craftsmen,  and  Cameron  describes  a  native  cabin  which  would  be  a  work 
of  art  even  in  Europe.  Much  artistic  taste  is  also  displayed  in  the  marvellous 
head-dreeses,  the  endless  varieties  of  wTiich  reveal  the  special  character  of  each 
individual.  Each  clan  has  also  a  special  animal,  whose  spoils  supply  the  gala 
robes   worn   when   they  present  themselves  before   their  sovereign.     As  in  the 


U-NYAMEZI, 


461 


P  his  divinity, 
male  subjects 
re  allowed  to 
is  women  are 
ed  of  a  river 
duty  it  is  to 
II  g  women,  on 
a  number  of 
place  of  the 
ifices  are  also 


Hurrounding  countries,  bark  garments  are  also  prepared  from  the  bast  of   the 
raiombo  plant. 

Kilemha  {Ktcihata,  Musminha),  capital  of  U-Rua,  lying  on  one  of  the  string  of 
lakes  traversed  by  the  Lua-Laba,  is  merely  a  large  village  defended  by  a  strong 
palisade.  In  this  country,  exposed  to  continual  plundering  exjieditious  of  the 
secondary  chiefs,  of  the  slave-hunters,  and  even  of  the  king  himself,  most  of  the 
villuges  are  hidden  away  in  the  thickest  part  of  the  forests,  and  can  be  approached 
only  bj'  creeping  on  all  fours  under  a  long  avenue  of  interlaced  foliage 
terminating  at  a  gateway  defended  by  a  chrvaujr-tle-fn'ac.  The  people  also  take 
refuge  in  the  lakes,  such  as  that  of  Mohrva,  24  miles  north-west  of  Eilemba,  where 
are  several  lacustrine  groups,  whose  inhabitants  approach  the  land  only  to  cultivate 
their  fields  and  graze  their  goats.  On  Lake  Eassali  they  utilise  the  floating  islands 
of  matted  vegetation,  on  which  they  plant  bananas  and  dwell  with  their  flocks  and 
poultry.  But  in  the  Mitumbo  and  Eunde  Irunde  hills,  skirting  the  west  and  east 
banks  of  the  Lu-Fira  river,  thousands  of  natives  dwell  in  spacious  caves,  some  of 
which  are  20  miles  long,  forming  with  their  innumerable  ramiflcations  vast  under- 
ground cities  occupied  by  whole  tribes  of  troglodytes  with  their  domestic  animals. 


p«M« 


^tc 


NlUTOli^ 


»«l 


\s 


'ccnwich 


to  the  bush,  or 
venwards. 
a.  The  soil  is 
nnabar,  silver, 
itelligence  and 
luld  be  a  work 
he  marvellous 
iracter  of  each 
ipply  the  gala 
n.    As  in  the 


Tanganyika  and  M'lta  N'zige. 

East  of  Lake  Tanganyika  the  most  extensive  state  is  U-Nyamezi  (U-Nyam- 
wezi),  mentioned  by  the  Portuguese  and  Pigafetta  so  early  as  the  end  of  the 
sixteenth  century,  under  the  name  of  Munemugi,  or  "  Land  of  the  Moon."  It 
occupies  most  of  the  lands  watered  by  the  Malagarazi  and  its  afiluents,  and  in  the 
north-east  it  stretches  beyond  the  divide  into  the  Victoria  Nyanza  basin.  U- 
Nyamezi  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  regions  in  Africa,  diversified  with  low  undulat- 
ing hills,  wooded  or  grassy,  and  dotted  over  with  numerous  villages  all  surrounded 
with  gardens,  rice  plantations,  and  well-cultivated  farms.  But  the  western 
districts  are  mostly  swampy  and  insalubrious,  especially  after  the  rainy  season. 

The  best-known  territory  in  U-Nyamezi  is  tl-Nyambiembe,  which  is  watered 
by  the  Gombe,  chief  affluent  of  the  Malagarazi.  Here  pass  most  of  the  caravans 
between  Tanganyika  and  the  coast ;  here  Speke,  Burton,  Grant,  Stanley,  Cameron, 
and  since  then  many  other  pioneers  of  African  exploration,  have  resided  for  weeks 
and  months  together  ;  here  also  several  religious  missions  have  been  established, 
and  Germany,  which  has  become  the  suzerain  poA^er,  will  doubtless  soon  be  repre- 
sented in  the  country  by  political  administrators. 

The  Vua-Nyamezi,  as  all  the  local  tribes  are  collectively  called,  appear  to  be 
related  to  the  people  of  Garanga ja,  although  enjoying  a  niuch  higher  culture  than 
their  neighbours,  thanks  to  their  long-established  commercial  relations  with  the 
Arabs.  Nevertheless  most  of  them  still  practise  the  old  systems  of  tattooing,  and 
otherwise  disfigure  themselves  by  extracting  the  two  lower  incisors,  or  else 
filing  them  to  an  edge,  and  distending  the  lobe  of  the  ears  by  the  insertion  of 
wooden  discs,  shells,  or  bits  of  ivory.  Thoy  generally  shave  a  part  of  the  head, 
dressing  the  rest  of  the  hair  in  numerous  radiating  points,  which  are  extended  by 


iMiMMMi 


liffilii 


468 


WEST  Ali-EICA. 


means  of  interwoven  vegetable  fibre.  Formerly  the  native  garb  was  made  of  bast, 
which  has  now  been  almost  everywhere  replaced  by  woven  fabrics  imported  from 
Zanzibar.     Brass  wire  armlets  and  greaves,  as  well  as  glass  beads,  are  much  worn, 


Fig.  22d. — CniEF  Routes  of  Exflobebs  in  the  Conoo  Basin  east  of  Tanoanyika. 

Scale  1 : 6,000,000. 


/ 


■-.  1 


^^ 


i 


<# 


v/l 


y     \ 


t^i*ff--:-rP 


50' 


tfl         oT   Ijreenv 


■■-,r-.      ~^.  .' 

,--  -<^ ^  v; 


5?" 


ISO  Miles. 


IrtUi^i 


and  to  these  the  chiefs  add  two  long  ivory  sheaths,  which  they  clash  together  to 
encourage  their  men  on  the  battlefield.  . 

In  the  conduct  of  domestic  affairs  the  division  of  labour  is  complete,  the  men 
loojiing  after  the  flocks  and  poultry,  the  women  attending  to  the  gardens  and 
fields.  In  some  districts  one  of  the  twins  is  killed  and  replaced  by  a  calabash  in 
the  cradle  of  the  survivor.  The  inheritance  passes,  not  to  the  nephew,  as  amongst 
so  many  tribes  where  matriarchal  customs  are  partly  maintained,  but  to  the  direct 
issue,  and  in  preference  to  illegitimate  children.  ^'^'A-'".':."/'^- 


made  of  bast, 

iported  from 

much  worn, 


IMYOCA. 


\\Q' 


ih  together  to 

•lete,  the  men 
!  gardens  and 
a  calabash  in 
w,  as  amongst 
to  the  direct 


U-NYAMEZI.  463 

At  the  time  of  Stanley's  first  journey  in  1871  the  Arabs  were  still  very  powerful 


O 

Ui 
I 

0) 
H 
H 


in  17-Nyamezi,  but,  having  abused  their  strength  to  enslave  their  neighbours,  the 


■MMMi 


451 


WEST  AFEICA. 


natives  rose  against  them,  and  a  Negro  empire  was  founded  by  the  famous 
Mirambo,  the  "black  Bonaparte,"  whose  military  genius  has  been  the  theme  of 
all  travellers.  At  present  this  state  is  divided,  one  half  of  the  villages  belonging 
to  the  proteges  of  the  Arabs,  some  of  whom  are  of  true  Semite  stock ;  but  the 
majority  are  half-castes  from  Muscat  or  Zanzibar,  who  employ  mercenary  troops 
imported  from  Baluchistan  and  other  places.  Owing  to  the  introduction  of  all 
these  foreign  elements  the  population  has  become  strangely  mixed,  and  most  of 
the  natives  along  the  trade  routes  speak  three  languages — their  Bantu  mother- 
tongue,  Arabic,  and  the  Ki-Swahili  of  Zanzibar. 

The  town,  or  rather  group  of  villages,  most  frequently  mentioned  in  ihe 
reports  of  travellers  and  missionaries  is  Tuboin,  the  Kazeh,  or  "  Residence,"  of  the 
first  English  explorers.  It  stands  at  an  altitude  of  over  4,000  feet,  or  very  nearly 
on  the  highest  land  of  the  waterparting  at  the  converging  point  of  all  caravan 
routes  between  the  sea  and  the  great  lakes.  Tabora,  which  is  surrounded  by 
extensive  plantations  of  batatas,  yams,  rice,  maize,  and  other  cereals,  comprises 
several  bomaa,  or  palisaded  enclosures,  which  with  numerous  outlying  groups  of 
huts  has  an  estimated  population  of  five  thousand  Wa-Nyamezi,  Arabs,  Zanzibari, 
and  Baluchi.  '  : -^  <  ^ 

On  the  surrounding  plain  to  the  south  and  south-west  are  scattered  several 
other  villages,  such  as  Ktti-Kuni,  or  the  "  Royal  Village,"  with  five  concentric 
enclosures,  where  resides  the  Mtemi,  who  rules  over  U-Nyaraezi  under  the 
protection  of  the  Arab  agent  at  Tabora.  All  these  groups  of  carefully  built  huts 
are  w^Il  kept  and  surrounded  either  with  a  hedge  of  poisonous  arborescent 
euphorbia},  or  else  in  the  new  style,  with  a  rampart  of  thick  walls.  Of  late  years 
some  European  buildings,  such  as  schools  and  chapels,  have  sprimg  up  both  in  the 
Tabora  district  and  in  U-Yiii  and  If-Ramho,  to  the  north-east  and  north-west. 
According  to  Wilson,  from  four  thousand  to  five  thousand  natives  dwell  within 
the  strong  enclosure  of  U-Yui ;  and  Serombo,  on  a  northern  affluent  of  the  Mala- 
garazi,  is  also  a  large  place  with  a  population  estimated  at  about  five  thousand. 
As  in  most  other  parts  of  Africa  where  Islam  and  Christianity  com-i  in  contact, 
the  former  exercises  most  moral  influence,  although  recording  fewei  proselytes, 
and  although  the  Arab  traders  show  no  zeal  for  the  cdn version  of  the  natives. 

In  the  U-Gonda  district  south  of  Tabora  the  Germans  had  established  a  station, 
where  they  hoped  sooner  or  later  to  create  a  centre  of  effective  political  control  for 
the  whole  region  stretching  east  of  Tanganyika.  Their  first  post  was  founded  in 
1881  near  the  village  of  Eakoma  in  the  Vua  Galla  country,  but  was  soon  after 
removed  to  Gonda  in  the  Vua-Gunda  territory.  In  return  for  a  few  charges  of 
gunpowder  the  local  "  sultan  "  had  grand  a  them  a  share  of  the  royal  power,  with 
the  right  of  pronouncing  sentence  of  death  and  declaring  peace  or  war.  Neverthe- 
•  less,  they  failed  to  prevent  human  sacrifices  over  the  graves  of  the  chiefs,  and  the 
station  was  abandoned. 

In  the  Malagarazi  valley  west  of  U-Nyaraezi  one  of  the  most  dreaded  predatory 
tribes  are  the  Vua-Tuta,  whose  territory  is  carefully  avoided  by  caravans,  which 
here  turn  north  to  the  pc^pulous  town  of  Serombo.      But  in  this  region  the  largest 


the  famous 
the  theme  of 
ges  belonging 
;ock ;  but  the 
rcennry  troops 
duction  of  all 
,  and  most  of 
antu  mother- 


in  ihe 
"  of  the 


tioned 
ience, 
ar  very  nearly 
>f  all  caravan 
lurrounded  by 
lals,  comprises 
ing  groups  of 
abs,  Zanzibari, 

ittered  several 
ive  concentric 
3zi  under  the 
uUy  built  huts 
us  arborescent 
Of  late  years 
up  both  in  the 
lid  north-west. 
I  dwell  within 
it  of  the  Mala- 
five  thousand. 
in<)  in  contact, 
rei  proselytes, 
16  natives. 
Lshed  a  station, 
ical  control  for 
vas  founded  in 
was  soon  after 
tew  charges  of 
'al  power,  with 
i^ar.  Neverthe- 
chiefs,  and  the 

aded  predatory 
aravans,  which 
ion  the  largest 


U-NYAMEZI. 


455 


Fig.  227. — Tadoba  and  Gonda. 
Soala  1 :  900,000. 


domuin  is  that  (d  the  Vua-Hha,  which  extends  from  the  liower  Malagarazi  to  ihe 
uplands  where  the  Alexandra  Nile  (Kagera)  has  its  rise.  These  warlike  shepherds 
are  distinguished  alike  for  their  fine  physique,  intelligent  expression,  and  artistic 
taste.  They  make  an  excellent  butter,  which  does  not  become  rancid  like  that  of 
the  other  pastoral  Iribesof  the  plateau,  and  which  is  exported  to  ihe  remotest  parts 
of  U-Nyamezi.     Their  Vua-Tuzi  /  .        •  •  '^ 

neighbours,  said  to  be  intruders 
from  the  north  and  akin  to  the 
Wa-Huma  of  Lake  Nyanza,  are 
noted  for  their  tall  stature, 
regular  features,  and  light  com- 
plexion. They  are  regarded  by 
some  authorities  as  of  Galla 
stock,  while  others  affiliate  them 
to  the  Vuu-Hha.  Like  the  Niiers 
of  the  White  Nile,  they  have  the 
faculty  of  standing  for  hours 
together  on  one  leg,  after  the 
fashion  of  wading  birds.  At 
present  the  Vua-Tuzi  are  em- 
ployed by  the  Tabora  Arabs  to 
tend  thrtir  flocks,  receiving  half 
the  produce  in  retxim. 

The  Lower  Malagarazi  Valley 
is  occupied  by  the  U-Vinza  and 
U-Karaga  countries,  the  former 
of  which  is  famous  for  its  salt- 
pans, which  supply  the  whole 
regicin  from  the  southern  shores 
of  Tanganyika  to  the  Tipper 
Congo  and  Lake  Victoria.  The 
great  market  for  this  salt,  as 
well  as  for  ivory,  slaves,  and 
merchandise  imported  from  Zan- 
zibar and  Europe,  is  the  port  of 
Kohirele  (Kare/r),  better  known 
by  the  name  of  UJiji,  which  is 
properly  that  of  the  district.   But 

this  famous  place,  which  at  one  time  gave  its  name  to  Lake  Tanganyika  itself,  is  a 
mere  group  of  hamlets  situated  on  the  south  side  of  a  peninsula,  whence  a  superb 
view  is  commanded  of  the  surrounding  coast,  with  its  red  cliffs,  wooded  slopes,  and 
palm-groves.  Ujiji,  which  is  the  residence  of  the  muntuali,  or  "  triumvirs,"  who 
administer  the  district,  is  an  unhealthy  place  that  has  proved  fatal  to  many 
Europeans. 


,.^' 

5* 

'•'••-■                                                       Jff"' 

^^•-    :^>'..    /* «/       •; 

5" 

■  ■/*■-■-:;:  i 

5- 

30' 

•.V    ••.•       ■'■*-                         ..    •:  • 

7    -..  •  ••• 

^     WImupoh  *■'                                           •• 

*                   •■•••              ..■-•.•...  ^ 

so- 

'52°5Q'            East  of  Greenwich       'SS'SO" 

IS  CiilUTstedlADd. 


.  ISMilw. 


idanMiMiaWMia 


■iwwriir     - 


456 


WEST  AFEICA. 


The  Vua-Jiji  arc  noted  Iwat-builders,  who  show  with  pride  many  large  decked 
barges,  which  were  the  queens  of  the  lake  before  the  Europeans  had  launched  their 
steamers  on  its  waters.  Under  their  white  instructors  they  have  become  skilful 
])ilot8,  and  no  longer  find  it  necessary  to  offer  so  many  sacrifices  of  goats  or  poultry 
to  the  spirits  of  the  storm  when  rounding  the  dangerous  headlands.    The  difficulties 


Fig.  228. — Inhabitants  of  the  Tanganyika  Basin. 
Scale  1 :  600,000. 


X 


.        /     -         V  ■         )  J- 

•IT      fll-^^A)(M     E     Zil 


/ 

6 


Cast   or  Greenwich 


120  Milea. 


':^^  vm 


of  the  route  to  the  coast  are  also  daily  diminishing,  and  this  journey,  which  even 
ill  1880  still  took  about  six  months  by  caravan,  may  now  be  made  in  forty-five 
days.  The  chief  inconvenience  is  the  tsetse  fly,  which  infests  a  part  of  the 
way,  and  thus  prevents  pack  or  draft  animals  from  being  employed  in  the  transit 
trade. 


rge  decked 
riched  their 
ome  skilful 
8  or  poultry 
e  difficulties 


■J.  ,r  j. 


lO* 


■,  which  even 

in  forty -five 

.  part  of  the 

in  the  transit 


Si 


t 


/^' 


".r 


ii-. 


U-NYAMEZI. 


467 


Fig.  220. — Ujui  and  the  Malaoahazi. 
Sokia  1  : 8,SOO,0OO. 


South  of  U-Vinza  the'  diHtricts  of  U-Gallo,  on  the  river  of  like  nunic,  and 
TJ-Eahwendc,  on  the  cust  aide  of  Tanganyika,  still  lie  within  the  Malugarazi 
basin.  Hero  are  no  krge  villages  or  important  markets  ;  but  farther  south  on 
the  coast  lioH  the  Euroj)ean  station  of  Kurema,  founded  in  1879  by  flie  Inter- 
national African  Association,  and  afterwards  ceded  to  the  French  Catholic 
missionaries  under  the  prospective  sovereignty  of  Germany.  This  place,  crown- 
ing a  small  hill  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ifume,  has  already  acquired  a  certain 
historic  celebrity,  thanks  to  the  explorers  who  have  made  it  the  centre  of  their 
expeditions.  When  the  fort  was  erected  the  bluff  stood  at  the  edge  of  the  water, 
which  has  retired  several  hundred  yai-ds,  since  the  lake  has  again  begun  to  send 
its  overflow  through  the  Lu-Kuga  emissary.  In  the  neighbourhood  a  large 
native  village  has  sprung  up  about  2  miles  from  the  coast,  and  the  slopes  of  the 
hill  and  surrounding  low-lying  tracts  have  been  laid  out  by  tk»  Belgians  with 
gardens  and  plantations.  ..  . . : - . .  fi 

South  of  Karema  the  coast  is  indented  by  numerous  creeks,  some  of  which 
might  become  excellent  havens.  The 
Eirando  inlet,  occurring  at  the  nar- 
rowest part  of  the  lake,  45  miles  from 
Karema,  is  completely  sheltered  by  a 
cluster  of  m  ighbouring  islets,  several 
large  villages  are  dotted  over  the  dis- 
trict, and  extensive  rice-fields  are 
spread  over  the  surrounding  plains. 
This  region  belongs  to  the  Vua-Fifa, 
a  numerous  nation,  who  also  occupy 
the  Liamba  hills  and  the  shores  of 
Lake  Rikwa. 

The  valley  of  the  river  Eatuma 
^Mkafu),  which  rises  to  the  east  of 
Karema,  is  shared  between  the  U-Eo- 

nongo  territory  in  the  north  and  U-Fiba  (U-Fipa)  in  the  south.  The  latter 
state  is  one  of  the  most  populous  in  East  Africa,  and  the  inhabitants  are  all 
daring  navigators,  who  infest  all  the  coastlands,  carrying  off  numerous  slaves 
by  their  sudden  raids  on  the  riverain  villages.  I^ear  the  Eonongo-Fiba 
frontier  is  situated  the  petty  state  of  Mpimbwe,  whose  capital  is  defended  on 
the  west  by  the  Liamba  hills,  and  eastwards  by  the  steppes  extending  far  over 
the  plain.  Near  the  town  are  two  thermal  springs  with  a  temperature  of 
114°  to  116''  F.,  which  fill  a  basin  much  resorted  to  by  the  natives  for  the 
efficacy  of  its  waters.  Mpimbwe,  destroyed  by  Mirambo's  people  in  1880,  has 
been  rebuilt  at  a  little  distance  from  the  old  site.  The  spot  is  shown  between  two 
baobab  trees,  where  fell  the  agents  of  the  African  Association,  Carter  and  Caden- 
head,  in  the  struggle  with  Mirambo. 

In  the  U-Rungu  district,  near  the  southern  extremity  ofTanganpka,  lies  the 
best  port  in  the  lake,  to  which  the  natives  give  the  name  of  Liemba,  that  is, 

98— AF 


80  Hilea. 


^~«W|Mf*P 


458 


WEST  AFRICA. 


II 


"  Luke,"  a  torin  which  they  apply  in  a  pre-eminent  hphso  to  Tanganyika  itHolf. 
Thi!  port  in  fact  is  a  lacustrine  basin  of  circular  form,  like  u  volcanic  crater, 
comi)lotcly  sheltered  on  the  north  and  west  by  the  Mpete  peninsula,  and  on  the 
east  by  the  escarpniouts  of  the  plateuu.  The  village  of  KaMe,  which  stands  about 
2,000  feet  above  this  almost  lund-locked  haven,  is  the  residence  of  a  sultan  called 
the  "(lood  Chief,"  who  rules  the  northern  Vua-Rungu  people.  Another  important 
station  in  this  territory  is  Zombe,  a  group  of  palisaded  enclosures  2,<'}00  feet  above 
the  lake,  and  consequently  5,000  feet  above  the  sea,  with  a  healthy,  almost 
European  climate,  and  free  from  the  tsetse  fly. 

Owing  to  its  insalubrious  climate,  Pnmhete,  the  southernmost  port  and  Protestant 
missionary  8t;:tion  on  the  lake,  has  liad  to  be  abandoned,  and  is  now  replaced  by 
Yembe,  on  the  promontory  of  that  name,  which  stands  between  Pambete  and  the 


Fifi^.  230.— Kabexa  and  Mi>i:<bwx. 
Scale  1  :  1,900,000. 


15  Mile*. 


liU-Fu  river  on  the  south-west  coast.  This  is  the  intended  northern  terminus  of 
the  carriage  road  constructed  by  Stevenson  between  Nyassa  and  Tanganyika. 
The  two  great  lacustrine  basins,  connected  by  this  highway  some  270  miles  long, 
will  form  with  the  Shir^,  Zambese,  and  lateral  arteries,  the  future  main  trade 
route  penetrating  from  the  Zambese  delta  1,200  miles  inland,  three-fourths  of 
which  space  is  already  open  to  steam  navigation. 

The  western  slope  of  the  Tanganyika  basin  between  the  mouths  of  the  Lo-Fu 
and  Lo-Fuko  is  occupied  by  the  Itawa  and  Ma-Rungu  (Wanya-llungu)  peoples, 
who  are  of  the  same  stock  and  speech  as  the  Vua-Rungu  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  lake.  This  region  is  thickly  peopled,  some  of  the  mountains  being  covered 
with  plantations  and  groups  of  dwellings  from  base  to  summit.  On  a  headland 
commanding  the  north  side  of  the  Lo-Fuko  the  African  International  Association 
hni3  founded  the  station  of  Mpala  over  agair.st  Kurema,  but  better  situated  both  as 


P 


^anyika  itHolf. 
olcanic  crater, 
ilu,  and  on  the 
h  Htunds  alxmt 
a  sultan  called 
thor  important 
.'JOO  feet  above 
icalthy,  almost 


UOUHA. 


4ft9 


a  health  resort  and  for  trading  piirpoBcs.     The  Lo-Fuko  valloy  offers  nt  this  point 
the  most  accessible  route  westwards  to  Lake  Moero  and  the  Lua'l'ulu  river. 

The  Ma-Uunj<u  are  of  a  somewhat  repulsive  Negro  type,  with  pn)jectinp  jaws, 
flat  nose,  very  short  legs,  and  long  trunk,  and  in  some  districts  much  subject  to 
goitre.  In  their  territory  lleieliard  has  found  the  soko  or  suko,  an  anthropoid 
ape  resembling  the  chimpanzi«e  rather  than  the  gorilla,  as  is  mentioned  by 
Livingstone,  who  also  saw  the  soko  in  the  Ma-Nyema  country.  These  large  a])es 
nearly  4  feet  high,  dwell  in  colonies  in  the  forests,  where  they  build  themselvt's 


and  Protestant 
)w  replaced  by 
ambete  and  the 


Pig.  231.— Ma-Runou  Fetishm. 


I'l^WiV'- 


mwi 


:^ 


hern  terminus  of 
md  Tanganyika, 
e  270  miles  long, 
iture  main  trade 
,  three-fourths  of 

ths  of  the  Lo-Fu 
i-llungu)  peoples, 
le  opposite  side  of 
ins  being  covered 
;.  On  a  headland 
tional  Association 
}r  situated  both  as 


-■j;;^-^;:;?f^^:i^?^.. 


'>,  j-'v^-"'; ,-;      '-'■■ 


■■  ■.  '■■■■■^-■■"'  A 


habitations  in  the  branches  of  the  trees.     Tiiey  are  dreaded  more  ttun  lions  by 
the  natives,  who  believe  that  their  "  evil  eye  "  is  the  forerunner  of  death. 

The  granite  U-Guha  uplands  north  of  the  Lu-Kuga  emissary  is  inhabited  by 
the  prosperous  Vua-Guha  people,  who  are  related  to  their  Rua  neighbours  farther 
west.  They  are  distinguished  from  other  tribes  by  their  lofty  head-dress  supported 
by  a  framework  of  iron  wire  and  decked  with  shells,  glass  beads,  and  metal  balls. 
Ihey  wear  garments  woven  from  the  raphia  fibre,  to  which  the  better  classes  add 
aprons  of  monkey  or  leopard  skins.     U-Guha  is  one  of  the  most  industrial  centre^ 


400 


WI«T  AFRICA. 


in  Africa,  producing  potteries,  matB,  cooperage,  wicker-work,  armo,  implements 
iron  and  copper  ornuuients.  Ruandu,  the  capital,  Hituat(>d  in  a  plain  to  the  north 
of  the  Lu-Kugu,  contains  at  leuHt  four  hundred  huts  dis'^ided  in  legt^lar  wide 
Mf  roots,  which  are  carefully  Mcavungered.  Stokes  erecteci  i'.  ■  'Uiircls  'ind  surmounted 
by  two-hoaded  human  effigies  remind  the  people  to  L  •  <.<c'A'  to  ^he  past  and 
future,  to  honour  their  forefathers'  tutelar  deities  of  the  pio^t.,  and  at  the  same  time 
love  their  children,  future  defenders  of  the  nation. 

Since  1H8*>  a  Kuropean  village  haH  stood  on  the  islet  of  Kamla  near  a  little 
insular  group  fringing  the  coast  north  of  Cape  Ivahangwa.     The  English  raission- 


I  j 


fig.  232.— Kavala  AiicaiPEi.A(K>. 
Soalc  1  :  180,000. 


T^IETIlS. 


Q9'jo' 


EmI  tff  GrteiTwirt- 


eg-so' 


.  6MilM. 


aries  have  made  choice  of  this  station  on  account  of  its  salubrity  and  the  excellent 
harbour  developed  between  the  island  and  the  mainland.  Kavala  is  at  present  the 
European  naval  station  and  dockyard  on  Tanganyika,  and  also  carries  on  an  active 
trade  with  the  natives.  ,, .-, 


'•s-:-; 


I::- 


The  Congo  prom  Lake  Langhi  to  the  U-Banohi  Confluence. 

The  Upper  Congo  basin  proper,  below  the  Lua-Laba,  Lua-Fula,  and  Lu-Euga 
confluence,  described  by  Livingstone  as  a  land  of  supreme  beauty,  is  occupied 


n,  impU'inenta 

II  to  the  north 

u)>?uhtr  wide 

nd  surinrjuntetl 

••1»o  pu»t  and 

the  aamo  time 

near  a  little 
nglidh  misBion- 


'T 


m 


e9°50' 


'  and  the  excellent 
la  is  at  present  the 
arries  on  an  active 


ioNFLUENCE. 

Pula,  and  Lu-Kuga 
beauty,  is  occupied 


THE  MIDDLE  COKOO. 


401 


chiefly  hy  tho  Vua-Mu-Nyenia,  or  "  Eutcrs  of  Flrnh,"  who  woi-e  till  recently  niui-h 
dreaded  hy  their  wentem  neighlwurH  owing  to  their  pronounced  cnnnihalism. 

Yet  such  repulsive  tusten  do  not  prevent  the  Mo-Nyema  from  surpiisNing  most 
of  the  surrounding  pcf>plcs  in  kindliness  and  even  gentl«>  (L^pasitions.  They  are 
also  notetl  for  their  physical  heauty,  the  women  eHjuwiully  Iwing  sought  after  hy 
the  Arabs  for  their  graceful  carriage  and  regular  features.  The  men  wear  antelope 
skins,  while  matiy  of  the  chiefs  have  adopted  the  flowing  white  toga  of  the  Arubs. 
Their  arras  are  a  heavy,  sharp-[H)inted  spear,  ami  ii  short  sword  worn  in  u  wooden 
sheath  ornamented  with  little  bells.  Their  artistic  skill  is  also  displayed  in  the 
manufacture  of  stout  vegetable  materials  dyed  with  fast  colours,  and  in  tlio 
erection  of  well-limbered  and  plastered  houses  of  the  Fcctanguhir  form,  common  to 
the  Vua-Regga  and  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  Congo  proper.  l\y  muuns  of  creepers 
they  also  construct  suspension  bridges, 

strong  and  firm  enough  easily  to  bear  ^*»-  '■^33.— TippoTip. 

the  weight  of  foot  traffic.  '     . 

"West  of  the  Upper  Congo  affluents 
and  in  the  region  of  the  water-parting 
dwell  other  populations,  distinct  in 
appearance  and  usages  from  the  Ma- 
Nyeraa.  Such  are  the  Vua-IIiya, 
distinguished  by  their  filed  teeth  and 
irregular  tattoo  marks ;  the  Vua- 
Vinza,  apparently  of  different  origin 
from  their  namesakes  east  of  Tan- 
ganyika; and  the  Bua-Bujwe,  Came- 
ron's Bujwas,  of  like  speech  and 
probably  of  the  same  stock  as  the 
Vua-Rua.     Amongst  all  these  Upper 

Congo  populations  are  scattered  small  groups  of  Bush  Negroes,  a  timid  folk,  who 
rarely  venture  to  approach  the  market-places  of  their  more  civilised  neighbours. 
Most  of  these  Vua-Twa,  or  Ba-Twa,  as  they  are  collectively  called,  are  of  dwarfish 
stature,  with  large  paunch  and  spindle  legs.  Some  are  true  pigmies,  smaller  even 
than  the  Akkas  of  the  Monbuttu  country,  according  to  Dr.  Wolff  not  exceeding 
4  feet  3  inches  in  height. 

Before  Stanley's  memorable  expedition  across  the  Continent,  the  Oman  and 
Zanzibar!  Arabs  had  already  trading  settlements  on  the  banks  of  the  Congo,  and 
their  caravans  traverse  many  districts  not  yet  visited  by  Europeans.  Their 
religious  and  social  influence  is  dominant  among  the  natives,  and  every  Arab  is 
surrounded  by  hundreds  of  more  or  less  assimilated  followers,  speaking  a  few 
words  of  the  language,  and  practising  some  of  the  rites  of  Islam.  Their  southern- 
most station  in  the  upper  basin  is  Kanaongo,  a  little  west  of  the  river  and  not  far 
from  the  falls  at  the  head  of  the  navigation;  This  healthy  and  picturesque  place 
has  been  chosen  as  the  seat  of  his  "  kingdom,"  by  Hamed-ben- Mohammed  (Tippo- 
Tip),  heir  to  a  former  Negro  kinglet,  who  has  left  his  name  to   the  town  of 


nt^)**m»!i*BltWV— ■- 


irMtK-lli'jwwmiiiiiiWii' 


462 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Kassoiigo.     Here  the  Arab  trader  has  erected  a  stronghold  to  which  he  has  given 
the  ambitious  name  of  "  London." 

North-west  of  Eassongo,  which  has  a  popidation  of  nine  thousand  "  slaves  and 
porters,"  the  twin  town  of  Nynngwe,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Congo,  has  also 
become  an  important  centre  of  trade,  and  according  to  Gleerup  it  is  already  the 
largest  riverain  town  in  the  whole  of  the  Congo  basin,  with  a  popiylation  of  no 
less  than  ten  thousand.     Tlie  upper  quarter  is  occupied  by  the  Arab  chiefs  and 


Fiy.  231.— Stanley  Faixa. 

Suale  1 :  52,000. 


"'*•.;"--  s 


^fiiliyiTi           ^ 

••.^gS^mUBt^ '  *••            •:   .  .^^^  •■    .    •■ 

•f -•                  »F^^                  •-•'.-          "  ^^^^    ' 

n* 

.•J^f^i    "'      ■                                  ^^^  • 

": 

so' 

^^iibfciL  ■   .••  •  •       •  •■  •  .'•      .'       ■•••■•■  ••  ■}  ': -'     •••   • 

^^^^Si^^*".  •*••    ...         •;•  ••■.."'■•■     ••■.A  •••*•■.■ 

'.    •*•      •'•  ''^^^WlL'""    -••••■•  •    •"    •••    V     v-"J-'  .  ■'•'•.■ 

•         •                                  *   "^^H^^^^SfcC       ••?   •■      -     *       ■*'        ■•   •   •    ..7'  •  ■.    <             .' 

•  ••    JW^^IL"        "•■ .      •  /'■     .  >    ■' 

•                          •      .      !■    !••     ^^^■[liiii|Tr"~lTfc_          •             /■-■     ' .'        •    ^- ■ 
:•     •'.    •:      .     ;•             f  .••••*  ^^^^^^^^^E^^L/t- •''•'*•.•, " 

.  Ka««kain«(\nBi^fe9l9BBKJ^i- '. '  • 

sd 

0- 

•.•'.••.    ..•;•••..:•.:*  V-.o.  ■••■.'.:  vf.-!-i?^'^K^»o- 

B8 

B5'a»                                              Ea«.  of  Gpeenwlc^i                      ??!*2*" 

^..    -, 


,  2  200  Tanb. 


1  heir  followers,  the  lower  by  other  imrjigrants  from  the  east,  and  a  well-attended 
market  is  held  alternately  every  dar  in  both.  Besides  being  the  chief  trading 
place  in  the  Upper  Congo,  Nyangv  e  with  Tabora  and  Ujiji  forms  one  of  the  three 
great  stations  along  the  eastern  st^ction  of  the  main  transcontinental  highway 
between  the  Indian  and  the  Atlantic  Oceans.  It  is  an  exclusively  Mohammedan 
town,  in  which  no  Europeans  have  yet  made  any  settlements. 
•  Delow  Nyangwe   follow  other  cannibal  communities,   which  maintain  direct 


:!^^~~r?:3!S3S!3niS?nT 


he  has  given 

"  slaves  and 
igo,  has  also 
8  already  the 
Illation  of  no 
ah  chiefs  and 


— ' 

•  " 

.  •• 

• 

0' 

* 

56 

**.    -  V 

•:•  ' 

••. 

•' 

•     * 

• 

nbal! 

u* 

•  •       • 

•'•:   ' 

a  well-attended 
e  chief  trading 
9ne  of  the  three 
tiental  highway 
f  Mohammedan 

maintain  direct 


»  . 


••■i-m 


'<:!y   -■•' 


% 


g 


1 


ll_J-il-U]liLUlH. ■ 


^ 


^^.  ■"■> 


I 


STANLEY  FALLS. 


4m 


trading  relations  with  the  Arabs.  The  riverain  tracts  ore  here  thickly  peopled, 
and  some  of  the  villages  have  thousands  of  inhabitants.  But  since  the  appearance 
of  the  Arabs  most  of  them  have  been  displaced,  so  that  very  few  of  those  men- 
tioned by  Stanley  can  now  be  identified. 

An  island  near  the  right  bank  below  the  seventh  and  last  of  the  Stanle}'  Falls 

Fig.  236. — Uhsbk  Chief  of  Iboko  and  Head  Chief  of  the  Ba-Noala. 


has  been  chosou  by  the  International  African  Association  as  the  site  of  its  most 
advanced  station  in  the  interior.  It  occupies  an  excellent  position  at  tlie  extreme 
limit  of  the  navigation  of  the  Middle  Congo,  at  the  point  where  it  begins  to  trend 
westwards  and  near  the  confluence  of  the  large  Lu-Keba  (Mburu)  affluent  from 
the  east.  This  place,  which  is  known  by  the  English  name  of  Fall-Station,  or 
Stanley  Falls,  was  recently  stormed,  and  its  little  garrison  of  Ilaussa  and  Ba- 


:i'w'"yp 


464 


,    WEST  AEBIOA, 


Ngala  Negroes,  with  their  Tiluropean  officers,  either  massacred  or  put  to  flight  by 
the  Arab  slave  hunters. 

The  small  European  station  of  Ba-Soko,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Arawhimi  at 
its  confluence  with  the  Congo,  had  also  to  be  abandoned  for  motives  of  economy. 
In  order  effectively  to  protect  trade  in  the  Arawhimi  basin,  it  would  be  absolutely 
necessary  to  maintain  a  strong  garrison,  and  here  Stanley  established  a  camp  to 
keep  open  his  communication  with  the  river  during  his  expedition  to  the  relief  of 
Emin  Bey.  The  Ba-Soko  (Ba-Songo),  who  have  given  their  name  to  the  European 
station,  are  a  valiant  and  industrious  people,  and  their  arms,  implements,  and 
ornaments  attest  their  artistic  superiority  over  the  surrounding  populations. 
Their  towns,  one  of  which,  Yambumba,  is  said  to  have  a  population  of  eight  thou- 
sand, are  distinguished  by  the  pointed  roofs  of  the  houses,  raised,  like  extinguishers, 
to  double  the  height  of  the  circular  avails.  The  young  Ba-Soko  warriors  also 
make  a  brave  show  on  the  water,  manning  their  great  war  vessels,  their  heads  gay 
with  the  crimson  and  grey  feathers  of  the  parrot,  the  long  paddles  decorated  with 
ivory  balls,  every  arm  gleaming  with  ivory  armlets,  a  thick  fringe  of  white  palm 
fibre  streaming  from  the  bows  of  the  shapely  and  well-built  barges.  Yet  these 
aborigines  have  not  yet  got  beyond  the  cannibal  state.  Human  skulls  decorate 
their  cabins,  gnawed  boues  are  mingled  with  the  kitchen  refuse,  and  Wester  speaks 
of  a  local  "  king  "  who  had  eaten  nine  of  his  wives. 

The  projected  station  of  JJpoto  promises  one  day  to  be  a  place  of  some  importance. 
The  site  chosen  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  at  the  foot  of  the  Upoto  hills, 
and  not  far  from  the  northernmost  point  of  tie  curve  described  by  the  Congo 
north  of  the  equator.  Farther  down  the  point,  where  the  river  trends  sharply  to 
the  south-west,  is  occupied  by  the  station  of  Ba-Ngrila  (Bangula),  so  named  from 
the  inhabitants  of  the  district,  estimated  by  Grenfell  at  one  hundred  and  ten 
thousand,  and  by  M.  Coquilhat  at  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven  thousand  on  both 
sides  of  the  Congo.  They  have  o  -•»  very  ,arge  villages  stretching  for  miles 
olong  the  riverain  tracts,  and  Ba-!!Vgala  itself,  of  which  the  European  station  forms 
part,  is  said  to  be  scattered  over  a  space  of  po  less  than  20  miles. 

The  Ba-Ngftla  nation  also  bears  the  eame  name  as  the  Mongalla  (Mo-Ngala) 
affluent,  ascended  by  Grenfell  and  others  to  the  head  of  the  navigation  in  the  Sebi 
territory.  On  the  left  bank  dwell  the  Bo-Lombo,  another  branch  of  the  Ba-Ngala, 
whose  chief  village  takes  the  same  name.  They  are  generally  a  fine  race,  whose 
features  would  be  agreeable,  even  to  a  European  eye,  but  for  their  habit  of  eradicat- 
ing the  eyebrows  and  eyelashes,  and  filing  the  teeth  to  a  point.  Their  national 
dress,  made  of  palm-fibre,  is  being  i-eplaced  by  garments  of  Eui*opean  manufacture, 
still  supplymented  by  the  women  with  wreaths  of  foliage  tattooed  on  the  calves. 
The  Ba-Ngala  are  a  highly  intelligent  people,  who,  like  the  civilised  Europeans, 
giv3  way  at  times  to  incontrollable  fits  of  frenzy  or  despair ;  hence,  cases  of  suicide 
are  far  from  rare  amongst  them.  At  the  burial  of  a  chlaf  the  women  and  children 
have  been  seen  performing  veritable  dramas  with  dance  and  song  representing 
death  and  the  resurrection.       ,  ,  -x  „  ;.^  ..^  j^^i^ ,- « 

The  station  of  Lu  Longo  {U-JRanga),  which  overawed  the  large  town  of  the 


to  flight  by 

Arawhimi  at 

of  economy. 

)e  absolutely 
,ed  a  camp  to 

the  relief  of 
the  European 

ements,  and 
populations, 
eight  thou- 
extinguishers, 

warriors  also 
leir  heads  gay 
iecorated  with 
of  white  palm 
es.  Yet  these 
skulls  decorate 
Wester  speaks 

me  importance. 
;he  Upoto  hills, 
by  the  Congo 
ends  sharply  to 
so  named  from 
indred  and  ten 
lousand  on  both 
ihing  for  miles 
m  station  forms 

Jla  (Mo-Ngala) 
ition  in  the  Sebi 
f  the  Ba-Ngala, 
fine  race,  whose 
abit  of  eradicat- 
Theii*  national 
an  manufacture, 
i  on  the  calves, 
ised  Europeans, 
,  cases  of  suicide 
aen  and  children 
ng  representing 

rge  town  of  the 


THE  WELLE  BASIN. 


46S 


same  name,  has  been  abandoned;  but  Equatorville,  farther  south,  is  still  main- 
tained. It  takes  its  name  from  its  position  close  to  the  equator  on  an  elevated 
plateau  at  the  confluence  of  the  Congo  and  the  Juupa,  or  Black  River.  Here  a 
Protestant  mission  has  already  been  established.  The  banks  of  the  Ikelemba, 
which  joins  the  Congo  over  a  mile  above  the  Juapa,  is  densely  peopled,  being 
dotted  over  with  numerous  villages,  usually  defended  by  high  palisades  and 
deep  ditches.  Probably  no  African  people  disfigure  themselves  more  by  tattoo 
markings  than  do  the  tribes  in  this  riverain  district.  By  means  of  incisions, 
ligatures,  and  other  devices,  they  contrive  to  cover  the  features  with  excrescences 

—      o  ^  .--->' 

Fig.  236.- Ba-Noala  Station. 

?  Scale!  :860,000.  ' 


(OS' 


■■■I 


•-  M   '-Ji  :-    Jr  .■    a 


«*  -  Wankansa 

•'/-.;;.  (Pb«t.*ritlwBa-N|«l 


■  V- 

V 


ta»t    or    Ureeowlch 


.  6  Miles. 


in  the  shape  of  peas  and  wens,  differing  with  most  individuals,  but  imparting  to 
all  a  loathsome  appearance.  Grenfeli  mentions  a  young  girl  who  had  a  wen  on 
both  sides  of  the  nose  as  large  as  a  pigeon's  egg,  which  prevented  her  from 
looking  straightforward.  In  order  to  recognise  anybody,  she  had  to  lower  her 
head  to  allow  the  glancs  to  avoid  the  obstruction  caused  by  these  "beauty  spots." 

The  "Welld  Basin,  Monbuttu,  and  Niam-Niam  Territories. 

•  This  section  of  the  Congo  basin,  whose  hydrographic  connection  with  the 
main  stream  has  bcsen  r  T.oarly  established  by  the  explorations  of  Junker,  is  one  of 


466 


WEST  AFRICA. 


those  regions  which  promise  one  day  to  acquire  the  greatest  economic  importance 
as  forming  lauds  of  transition  between  the  Nile  and  Congo  systems.  In  an 
ethnological  sense  it  also  forms  a  connootiiig  link  with  the  Negroes  and  Bantus, 
the  inhabitants  of  the  waterparting  showing  affiiuties  to  both  races  iu  their  social 
usages,  while  still  cnnstitutingi,  a  distinct  family.  -'  '     *     "; 

When  Schweinf urth  penetrated  for  the  first  time  into  this  region  he  had  good 
reason  to  call  it  the  "  Heart  of  Africa,"  for  here  lies  the  point  of  intersection  for 
the  diagonal  continental  lines  drawn  from  the  mouth  of  the  Congo  to  the  Nile 
delta,  and  from  the  Gulf  of  Guinea  to  that  of  Aden.  Yet  this  divide  between 
the  two  great  fluvial  systems  is  still  but  little  known.    Afier  Schweiufurth'a 

Kg.  237. — Chiek  Routes  op  Exploeebs  in  Monbuttu  Land.      .    ■;■  . 

Soile  1  :  12,000,000.  '  ■        ' 


■^ 


x--^ 


''*'"'i*.ivoai 


Mwottan  Wiiftf 


^aat   of  breenwlch 


25° 


r'' 


160  MUm. 


r<>craorable  expedition,  the  subsequent  journeys  of  Bohndorflf,  Lupton,  Potagos, 
and  Casati  added  details  of  a  secondary  interest  only  to  the  rich  and  varied 
information  supplu:  1  bj'  ib/ .t  pioneer.  Bi:t  it  is  otherwise  with  Junker's  journeys, 
the  publication  of  v7hich  must  ct  \ainly  be  regarded  as  a  geographical  event  of 
primary  importatco  for  our  knowledge  of  this  part  of  the  continent.  Of  equal  if 
not  greater  importance  are  the  data  supplied  by  the  expedition  undertaken  in 
1887  by  Stanley,  to  force  the  passage  from  the  Congo  to  the  U})per  Nile  for  the 
purpose  of  relieving  £min  Bey's  Egyptian  forces,  stationed  at  Wadelai,  and  cut  olf 
from  the  northern  route  by  the  revolt  in  Eastern  Sudan. 

■'  -  The  Welle  of  the  Niara-Niams,  the  Nomayo  of  the  Monbuttus,  the  Bnhr-el- 
Makua  of  the  Arabs,  rises  under  the  name  of  Eibali  in  the  uplands  skirting  the 


5  importance 
ma  111  1" 
and  Bantus, 
I  their  social 

le  hud  good 
ersection  for 
to  the  Nile 
ndi)  between 
jhweiufurth's 


':M 


upton.  Potijgos, 
Ich  and  varied 
ikor's  journeys, 
phical  event  of 
it.  Of  equal  if 
undertaken  in 
per  Nile  for  the 
lelai,  and  cut  off 

as,  the  Bahr-el- 
nda  skirting  the 


THE  MONBUTTUS. 


467 


left  pide  of  Lake  Albert  Nyanza.  After  traversing  regions  not  yet  visited  by  the 
white  man,  it  enters  the  domain  of  the  Monbuttus  (Mang-Battu),  a  country 
already  made  known  by  the  descriptions  of  Schweinfurth.  Monbuttu  Land  is  a 
magnificent  region,  an  *'  earthly  paradise,"  abounding  in  an  exuberant  vegetation, 
diversified  with  charming  park-lands  and  picturesque  landscapes.  Standing  at  an 
altitude  of  from  2,500  to  2,800  feet,  and  rising  in  gentle  undulations  to  hills  300 
or  400  feet  high,  it  enjoys  a  temperate  climate,  notwithstjnirling  its  proximity  to 
the  equator.     Running  waters  wind  along  the  bottom  lauds,  shaded  by  large 

Fig.  238.— A  Monbuttu  Woman,  '   ""  ' 


'"«'/' 


'"v'A,, 


''," 


"ii,; 


*"% 


'K 


trees  with  intertwined  branches,  while  the  habitations  are  everywhere  encircled  by 
verdant  clusters  of  bananas  and  oil-palms.  Although  there  are  no  towns,  the 
population  is  very  dense,  being  estimated  by  Schweinfurth  at  about  one  million. 
In  other  words,  in  a  space  some  4,000  square  miles  in  extent,  the  number  of 
inhabitants,  neax'ly  two  hundred  to  the  square  mile,  would  be  one-fourth  greater 
than  the  average  in  France. 

The  Monbuttus  differ  greatly  in  physical  appearance  from  their  neighbours,- 
being  distinguished  by  almost  Semitic  features  and  often  even  by  a  perfectly 


.• 


■1 


k 


I  !■>>■  "t^f 


^ 


4M 


WEST  AFBICA. 


aquiline  nose.  The  complexion  is  somewhat  lighter  than  that  of  the  surrounding 
Niam-Niams  and  Negroes.  The  beard  also  is  longer  than  amongst  most  Africans, 
while  thousands  are  noted  for  an  almost  white  skin  and  light  hair,  although  kinky 
like  that  of  other  Negroes.  Certainly  nowhere  else  is  the  relative  proportion  of 
albinos  so  great  as  amongst  the  Monbuttus,  who  are  otherwise  distinguished  by 
their  long  and  somewhat  slender  extremities,  muscular  frames,  and  marvellous 
agility.  Fai  thf ul  to  their  ancestral  customs,  all  the  men  wear  a  dress  made  from 
the  bark  of  the  fig-tree,  to  which  time  imparts  a  glossy  appearance,  and  which  is 
wound  in  graceful  folds  round  the  logs  and  body  and  fastened  to  the  waist  by 
ox-hide  thongs  ornamented  with  copper.  The  women  wear  a  simple  loin-cloth, 
and  in  some  districts  even  this  is  dispensed  with,  or  replaced  by  a  graceful  network 
of  geometrical  lines.  The  whole  body  is  painted  over  with  stars,  crosses, 
bees,  flowers,  arabesques,  stripes,  and  suchlike  designs  regularly  disposed,  and  at 
every  feast  renewed  with  an  endless  variety  of  fresh  patterns. 

The  Monbuttu  hunters  capture  the  elephant,  buffalo,  and  antelope ;  but  they 
maintain  a  perpetual  state  of  warfare  with  the  surrounding  peoples,  and  their 
chief  quarry  is  man.  Of  all  African  anthropophagists,  the  Monbuttus,  with  the 
kindred  Mang-Iianga  nation,  appear  to  be  the  most  partial  to  a  diet  of  human 
flesh.  Surrounded  by  tribes  whom  they  usually  designate  by  the  opprobrious 
name  of  Mon-Vu,  and  whom  they  hunt  as  eo  much  game  to  the  view-halloo  of 
"  Pichio,.Pichio !  "  ("  Meat,  Meat !  "),  they  kiU,  on  the  battle-field  as  many  as  pos- 
sible, and  then  convert  the  slain  into  jerked  meat,  reserving  the  prisoners  for  future 
occasions.  Each  family  has  its  regular  supply  of  human  flesh,  and  the  fat  of 
man  is  the  most  generally  used.  Schweinfurth  easily  collected  over  two 
hundred  skulls,  but  most  of  them  had  been  broken  to  extract  the  brain.  The 
teeth  of  the  victims  are  strung  together  as  necklaces,  and  the  slaves  are  not 
sold,  but  eaten. 

Nevertheless  this  nation  6t  cannibals  takes  in  many  respects  the  foremost 
position  amongst  the  African  populations.  They  are  loyal  to  their  pledged  word, 
and  steadfast  in  friendship.  The  national  sentiment  is  also  fully  developed,  and 
all  fight  valiantly  against  the  common  eneray.  In  1866,  when  the  Nubians, 
equipped  with  firearms,  for  the  first  time  penetrated  into  the  country,  the  natives 
headed  by  a  woman  in  man's  attire  and  armed  with  shield  and  lance,  bravely 
repulsed  and  compelled  them  to  sue  for  peace.  In  the  household  the  wife  is 
almost  the  husband's  equal,  enjoying  her  share  of  the  property,  her  personal 
will,  and  recognised  rights.  But,  as  amongst  the  surrounding  Negroes,  the 
women  do  most  of  the  heavy  work  both  in  the  field  and  at  home,  and  many 
artistic  objects,  such  as  wood-carvings  and  fine  wickerwork,  are  the  product  of 
their  hands.         -f^;  : -f</-,w/'is.,; /;•.,{;  j  "  i^j  'vvj^., ,:':•■ 

The  industries  are,  relatively  speaking,  highly  developed.  As  potters,  sculptors, 
boatbuilders,  and  masons  the  Monbuttus  have  no  rivals  in  the  vegion  between  the 
Nile  and  Congo.  In  the  quadrangular  form  of  the  dwellings  their  architecture  is 
allied  to  that  of  the  western  peoples,  but  surpasses  it  in  the  size  and  skilful 
adjustment  of  their  structures  and  wealth  of  ornamental  work  lavished  on  their 


surrounding 
oat  Africans, 
hough  kinky 
>roportion  of 
nguished  by 
i  marvellous 
BB  made  from 
and  wbich  is 
be  waist  by 

e  loin-clotb, 
cef  ul  network 
itars,  crosses, 
tposed,  and  at 

} 
)pe;  but  they 
les,  and  their 
ttus,  with  the 
liet  of  human 
e  opprobrious 
view-halloo  of 
s  many  as  pos- 
ners  for  future 
and  the  fat  of 
cted  over  two 
he  brain.  The 
slaves  are  not 

s  the  foremost 
•  pledged  word, 

developed,  and 
a  the  Nubians, 
try,  the  natives 

lance,  bravely 
)ld  the  wife  is 
jT,  her  personal 
J  Negroes,  the 
)rae,  and  many 

the  product  of 

otters,  sculptors, 
ion  between  the 
r  architecture  is 
dze  and  skilful 
vished  on  their 


'■■■?---         '^ » 


i 


:l 


sEW 


X, 


;^: 


¥' 


5     ■     « 


r. 


,  )       » 


"*• 


THE  AKKAS. 


4W 


buildings.  The  recently  destroyed  reception  hall  of  the  king  of  the  Western 
Monbuttiifl  resembled  in  general  outline  a  great  railway  tenninus;  the  roof,  over 
100  feet  long,  ">0  wide,  and  40  high,  gracefully  arclied,  and  of  perfectly  regular 
form,  rested  on  three  rows  of  polished  wooden  pillars,  these  pillars  us  well  as  the 
thousand  geometrical  wooden  figures  being  painted  in  three  colours,  white,  blood- 
red,  and  yellow  ochre. 

Amongst  the  Monbuttus,  ond  more  especially  amongst  the  Negro  or  Bantu 
tribes  more  to  the  south,  are  scattered  numerous  groups  of  the  Akka  race,  who, 
like  the  Vua-Twa  of  the  Upper  Congo,  seem  to  he  descended  from  the  aliorigines 
who  occupied  the  land  Ixifore  the  Bantu  invasions.  A  province  south  of  the  Welle 
is  said  to  be  still  held  by  these  aborigines,  who  are  probably  the  Bukka-Bukka  of 


'r' 


Fig   239. — Inhabitjlntb  of  tue  Welle  Darrt. 
Scale  1  :  »,000,000. 


:a«t  of,  Greenwich 


tSOMilM. 


the  Portuguese  writers  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  akin  to  the  Badias  of 
U-Nyoro  in  the  region  of  the  equatorial  lakes.  Of  all  the  African  "  dwarfs,"  the 
Akkas  are  considered  by  the  learned  as  the  best  representatives  of  the  "little 
people"  mentioned  by  Herodotus  in  connection  with  the  wanderings  of  the 
Nasamons.  The  two  sent  by  Miani  to  Italy  in  1873  were  respectively  4  feet  4 
inches  and  4  feet  8  inches  high,  while  the  tallest  seen  by  Schweinfurth  did  not 
exceed  5  feet.  The  pure  Akka  type  is  brachycephalic  (round-headed),  with 
disproportionately  large  head,  very  projecting  jaws,  receding  chin,  mouth  nearly 
always  open,  less  tumid  lips  than  those  of  most  Negroes,  prominent  cheek-bones, 
wrinkled  cheeks,  small  nose  separated  from  the  frontal  bone  by  a  very  marked 
cavity,  large  ear,  and  wide-open  eye  giving  them  a  somewhat  birdlike  aspect. 
The  body  is  of  a  lighter  brown  complexion  than  that  of  the  true  Negro,  is  of 


470 


WEST  AFRICA. 


^1 


,1 


utipfuiiily  fonn,  and  according  to  Kmin  Bey  cniitB  a  pccrl;ur  ond  very  pungent 
o<lour.  Enonnous  shoulder-blades  give  them  a  roui  ^id  buck,  other  murkcf! 
physical  characteristics  being  a  flat,  narrow,  and  l»air_^  best,  full  paunch  like  that 
of  Nogro  children,  long  slender  extremities,  very  delicate  hands,  large  bony  knees, 
feet  turned  inwards,  and  an  uncomfortable  tottering  gait.  Nevertheless  they  are 
extremely  nimble,  bounding  through  the  tall  grass  "  like  grasshoppers,"  and  so 
sure  of  aim  that  they  do  not  hesitate  to  attack  the  elephant,  planting  their  darts 
right  in  his  eye,  or,  according  to  the  Nubians,  creeping  between  his  legs  and 
spearing  him  from  below.  Their  hunters  show  great  ingenuity  in  devising  and 
setting  snares,  in  overtaking  and  pursuing  the  quarry,  thanks  to  which  qualities 
they  live  on  good  terms  with  their  powerful  neighbours,  supplying  them  with 
ivory  and  at  the  same  time  acting  as  agents  fiir  the  distribution  of  salt,  which  is 
such  a  valuable  commodity  in  the  interior  of  /\frica. 

"West  and  north-west  of  the  Monbuttu  territory  the  Nile-Congo  waterparting 
io  occupied  by  the  powerful  Zandeh  or  A-Zandeh  nation,  who  like  the  Tangalas  of 
the  Niger  basin  are  better  known  by  the  name  of  Niam-Niam,  and  who  are  also 
called  Babungera  and  Karakara.  The  crest  of  the  divide  running  south-east  and 
north-west  between  the  White  Nile  and  Welle  slopes  runs  very  nearly  through 
the  centre  of  the  Zandeh  domain,  a  healthy  and  pleasantly  undulating  region 
standing  from  2,500  to  -3,000  feet  above  ''?a-level.  North-westwards  the  race 
also  probably  penetrates  into  the  Upper  bh  iri,  and  consequently  into  the  Tsad 
basin,  while  the  striking  resemblance  observed  between  their  usages  and  those  of 
the  Fans  - ; ;  the  Gaboon  and  Ogoway  regions  would  seem  to  show  that  the  Is  iam- 
Niams  have  penetrated  far  to  the  west.  The  original  unity  of  these  two  peoples 
is  rendered  all  the  more  probable  that  their  migrations  have  proceeded  in  opposite 
directions,  as  if  irom  a  o  TnmoT,  mntre  of  dispersion.  Hence  while  the  Fans  claim 
to  have  come  from  thv;,  <•  tht  uindehs  relate  that  their  forefathers  reached  their 
present  abodes  from  tJ     -vest. 

But  however  tb'  j,  the  part  of  Central  Africa  already  known  to  belong  to 
the  Niam-N)  'ras  is  estimated  by  Schweinfurth  at  nearly  60,000  square  miles, 
with  a  total  population  of  probably  not  less  than  two  millions,  either  true  Zandeh s, 
or  allied,  vassal,  or  enslaved  peoples.  But  there  is  no  national  unity,  and  merely 
in  the  part  of  the  country  explored  by  him  Schweinfurth  enumerates  no  less  than 
thirty- five  independent  chiefs,  several  of  whom  maintained  constant  blood  feuds 
against  each  other.  According  to  Keane  the  Banda  Niam-Niams  of  the  north- 
east sliould  be  carefully  distinguished  both  from  the  Belandas  of  the  central 
districts  between  the  Nile  and  Congo  watersheds,  and  from  the  "  white  "  Niam- 
Niams,  who  dwell  farther  south  as  far  as  and  beyond  the  Welle,  and  who  are  the 
most  civilised  of  all. 

The  fame  of  the  Nium-Niams  had  long  been  spread  abroad  amongst  the  Nubians 
and  Sudanese  Arabs ;  but  the  mirage  produced  by  distance  conjured  up  strange 
visions  of  this  mysterious  people,  picturing  them  rather  as  a  superior  kind  of  ape 
than  as  members  of  the  human  family.  The  famous  "  tailed  men,"  reported  by 
travellers  beyond  the  Upper  Nile  regions,  were  supposed  to  be  none  other  than  tho 


,»SV 


ery  pungent 
licr   marked 
ach  like  thut 
bony  knees, 
loss  they  are 
lers,"  and  so 
J  their  darts 
his  legs  and 
devising  and 
lich  qualities 
g  them  with 
lalt,  which  is 


wuterparling 
B  Tan  galas  of 

who  are  also 
outh-east  and 
•arly  through 
ilating  region 
ards  the   race 
into  the  Tsad 
9  and  those  of 
lat  the  Is  iam- 
96  two  peoples 
led  in  opposite 
the  Fans  claim 
i  reached  thei/ 


1  to  belong  to 
square  miles, 
r  true  Zandehs, 
ty,  and  merely 
tes  no  less  than 
nt  blood  feuds 
8  of  the  north- 
of  the  central 
'  white  "  Niam- 
md  who  are  the 

.28t  the  Nubians 
ired  up  strange 
rior  kind  of  ape 
m,"  reported  by 
.6  other  than  tho 


'■A 


.^^s^< 


^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


w. 


m 


■% 


<*tt8t> 


IA&|2j8  |25 

■i&  Uii  12.2 

IS  144  ™" 

lU       ...  IIIIIO/\ 


1.6 


«'; 


*3 


A' 


V 


Photographic 

Sciences 

(Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STMIT 

WIBSTIR.N.Y.  MSM 

(716)  •72-4503 


:;:.3EiS3K7K^' 


Mi.r^>l;^^M&i&,m^^Ja■'*^»■|^^^'■"  -.-r-.v.,^..,  .,■„ 


i^ 


^ 


^f 


ISP 


^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Instituto  for  Historical  Microroproductions  /  Inatitut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquaa 


^. 


THE  NIAM-NIAM8. 


471 


ZaDdehs,  who  nevertheless,  unlike  the  Bongos,  did  not  even  wear  an  ox-tail, 
which,  at  a  distance,  might  present  the  appearance  of  a  natural  appendix.  Still 
less  could  the  illusion  he  created  by  the  skins  of  animals  which  they  wear  wrapped 
round  the  loins.  But  on  the  other  hand  the  term  Niam-Niam,  or  "  eaters,"  applied 
also,  however,  hy  the  Nubians  to  numerous  other  tribes,  is  certainly  justified  by 
the  cannibalistic  practices  at  least  of  some  of  the  Zandeh  communities.  Fiaggia, 
who  was  the  first  to  traverse  the  Nilotic  section  of  their  domain  in  1863-65, 


Fig.    240.— NlAM-NlAM  WoiUN. 


noticed  only  one  instance  of  cannibalism,  that  of  a  slain  enemy,  who  was  shared 
amongst  the  victors.  It  seems  evident  that  on  the  whole  the  Zandehs  are  far  less 
addicted  to  the  habit  than  the  Monbuttus,  although  amongst  most  of  the  tribes  the 
tradition  prevails  of  eating  captives  and  those  who  die  friendless.  All  bodies, 
except  those  tainted  by  some  skin  complaint,  are  regarded  as  good  for  the  table. 
Even  those  who  abstain  from  human  flesh  are  extremely  carnivorous,  living  mainly 
on  dogs,  game,  and  poultry,  for  they  raise  no  large  domestic  animals.  It  is 
characteristic  that  amongst  their  essentially  agricultural  and  frugivorous  Bongo 


I 


478 


WEST  AFRICA. 


neighbours  the  same  word  means  "  sorghum  "  and  "  to  eat,"  which  in  the  Niara- 
Niam  and  Fan  dialects  has  the  signification  of  "  flesh  "  and  "  food." 

The  Zandehs  are  round-headed,  with  straight  nose,  wide  nostrils,  full  cheeks 
and  lips,  round  and  almost  feminine  features,  an  effect  which  is  heightened  by  their 
peculiar  style  of  head-dress.  Their  kinky  hair  is  remarkable  for  its  great  length, 
some  wearing  tresses  which  reach  down  to  the  waist,  while  many  are  furnished 
with  a  dense  beard  much  longer  than  that  of  any  other  Negro  or  negroid  peoples. 
The  female  head-dress  is  much  more  simple  than  that  of  the  men,  who  spend  whole 


Kg.  241.— NiAK-NiAM  Man. 


/ 


#' 


'^^ 


7' /I 


days  in  curling  their  ringlets,  frizzling  their  tufts,  or  polishing  their  fillets.  The 
majority  carefully  divide  the  hair  down  the  middle  from  nape  to  forehead,  while 
others  form  above  the  brow  a  triangular  top-knot  between  two  volutes,  whence  hang 
the  curls  enframing  the  face.  Some  even  attach  their  locks  in  the  form  of  a  nim- 
bus to  a  circular  frame  supported  above  the  head. 

But  by  its  lack  of  ornamentation  the  body  presents  a  striking  contrast  to  these 
elaborate  head-dresses.  Despising  the  glass  trinkets,  which  have  such  a  fascina- 
tion for  most  other  Negro  peoples,  the  Niam-Niams  content  themselves  with  a  few 


n  the  Niara- 

fuU  cheeks 
ened  by  their 
great  length, 
ire  furnished 
^oid  peoples. 
0  spend  whole 


"T" 


iw.i  ijttfjjf J  mfi^f'!im^m'"^"'K'^'t' ' 


474 


WEST  AFRICA. 


rectangle,  as  the  sign  of  their  nationality.  The  skin  of  an  animal  encircles  their 
wuist,  and  the  chiefs  adorn  their  heads  with  a  leopard's  fur,  while  all  file  the  incisors  to 
a  point.  Despite  the  soft  rounded  form  of  the  features  and  bust,  and, the  feminine 
elegance  of  their  coiffure,  the  Zandehs  are  distinguished  amongst  all  Africans  by 
their  noble  carriage.  The  trunk  may  perhaps  be  somewhat  long  compared  to  the 
lower  extremities,  but  they  are  none  the  less  noted  for  their  marvellous  agility, 
using  their  offensive  weapons,  such  as  the  spear  and  dart,  with  dangerous 
dexterity. 

A  distinctive  national  trait  is  the  vehemence  of  their  conjugal  affection.     In 


i\ 


i- 


ft 


Fig.  243.— Uppeb  Weli.e  Basin. 
Scale  t  :  3,800,000. 


-  ,.,5./.-.-  ,r-v,, 


East  of  GrsenwicH  ^8° 


■■■r 


t 


.  GO  Uilea. 


their  domain  no  wife  is  purchased,  as  is  customary  amongst  nearly  all  African 
peoples.  The  marriageable  young  man  applier  to  the  district  chief,  who  looks  him 
out  a  suitable  consort ;  yet  notwithstanding  this  somewhat  official  arrangement, 
which  seems  to  override  the  individual  inclinations,  these  unions  are  seldom 
unhappy,  and  the  wife  is  as  faithful  to  her  husband  as  she  is  reserved  towards 
strangers.  In  this  respect  the  contrast  is  complete  between  them  and  their 
Monbuttu  sisters.  The  Zandehs  arc,  on  their  part,  passionately  devoted  to  their 
v/ives,  so  much  so  that  in  war  the  enemy  first  endeavours  to  seize  the  women  in 


M- 


TUE  FRENCH  CONGO. 


476 


icircles  their 
he  incisors  to 
the  feminine 
Africans  by 
ipared  to  the 
ellous  agility, 
th  dangerous 

affection.     In 


^ 


t 


(arly  all  African 
if,  who  looks  him 
ial  art-angeraont, 
lions  are  seldom 
reserved  towards 
them  and  their 
devoted  to  their 
ze  the  women  in 


order  thus  to  compel  the  men  to  sue  for  mercy  and  promise  payment  of  tribute. 
Their  strolling  minstrels,  who  resemble  the  8enegambian  musicians,  intermingle 
love  ditties  with  warlike  songs. 

The  native  chiefs,  although  despising  outward  show,  and  distinguished  from 
their  subjects  only  by  the  leopard-skin,  none  the  less  enjoy  almost  absolute 
authority  over  the  community.  They  are  supreme  masters,  and  when  there  has 
been  no  occasion  to  exercise  their  judicial  powers  over  real  offenders,  tliey  are  said 
at  times  to  fall  on  some  innocent  person  and  decapitate  him,  to  prevent  their  right 
of  life  and  death  over  their  subjects  from  being  questioned.  The  eldest  son  suc- 
ceeds, as  in  Europe,  to  the  supreme  power,  the  royal  revenues  consisting  of  the 
ivory  and  half  the  flesh  of  all  elephants  killed  in  their  domain.  The  rulers  have 
also  appropriated  for  their  own  use  extensive  estates,  which  are  cultivated  by  their 
women  and  slaves.  In  the  western  districts,  visited  by  the  slave  hunters  from  Dar- 
For,  the  chiefs  take  in  lieu  of  tribute  young  men  and  women,  whom  they  sell  to 
the  strangers,  a  part  of  the  price  being  returned  to  the  families  by  way  of  indem- 
nity. In  the  southern  kingdoms  of  Kanna,  lying  south  of  the  Welle,  the  royal 
tomb  is  guarded  by  twenty-five  vestals,  who  are  bound  under  pain  of  death  to 
keep  a  sacred  flame  burning  at  the  shrine.  '•  >  *     , 

In  the  midst  of  the  Zandeh  tribes  and  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Welle  separating 
them  from  the  A-Barambo  people,  numerous  villages  are  occupied  by  the  A-Madi, 
who  speak  a  different  language  from  all  the  surrounding  tribes,  although  resem- 
bling the  Niam-Niams  in  appearance.  But  they  are  of  darker  complexion,  and 
have  almost  brachycephalio  skulls. 


The  French  Congo. 


•Eiv  -^^v'^ 


The  eastern  section  of  the  French  possessions  politically  attached  to  the  Gaboon 
and  Ogoway  government  is  comprised  within  the  Congo  basin,  being  watered  by 
several  navigable  rivers  belonging  to  that  hydrographic  system.  Such  are  the 
Bunga  and  its  numerous  tributaries,  the  Likwalla,  the  Alima,  Nkheni,  and  Leflni, 
which  open  a  waterway  from  the  coast  to  the  Middle  Congo  above  the  cataracts, 
and  which  promise  one  day  to  become  important  trade  routes  towards  the  Ogoway 
and  Gaboon  basins.  The  XJ-Banghi  itself,  whose  right  bank  is  now  included 
within  the  French  territory,  is  probably  destined  to  form  the  main  highway  in  the 
direction  of  the  Upper  Nile  Valley,  and  of  the  central  plains  occupied  by  the 
depression  of  Lake  Tsad.  But  this  vast  domain,  to  which  the  convention  lately 
concluded  with  the  Congo  Free  State  adds  probably  an  extent  of  some  40,000 
square  miles,  must  remain  undeveloped  until  the  primitive  routes  of  the  native 
traders  are  replaced  by  carriage  roads  connecting  the  main  navigable  highways. 

The  U-Banghi  river,  ascended  by  Grenfell  as  far  as  the  Zongo  Rapids,  is 
knf'wn  only  in  its  lower  course.  North  of  the  cataracts,  the  steamer  which  forced 
the  stream  was  received  by  a  shower  of  arrows  from  the  natives  perched  in  aerial 
villages  on  platforms,  supported  by  the  branches  of  the  bombax.  It  would  thus 
seem  that  the  customs  prevalent  in  the  Upper  Shari  districts  are  also  found  in  this 


r'' 


f  - 


476 


WEST  AFRICA. 


section  of  the  Congo.  Further  down  the  right  bank  of  the  U-Banghi,  which  is  by 
far  the  more  populous,  is  held  by  the  Ba-Ati,  Mo-Nyembo,  Mbonjo,  and  Mu- 
Tumbi  tribes,  whose  villages  follow  in  us  close  succession  as  in  the  Ba-Ngalu 
country.  In  the  morning,  when  the  men  start  for  their  fishing-grounds,  or 
uccompuny  the  women  und  children  to  the  fields  ulong  the  river  bunks,  as  many  as 
two  or  three  hundred  canoes  are  at  times  assembled,  preceded  by  a  kind  of 
admiral's  wur-vessel,  on  which  is  heard  the  roll  of  the  battle-drum. 

No  less  populous  are  ihe  banks  of  the  Nghiri,  between  the  U-Banghi  and  the 
Congo,  where  villages,  banana  and  palm-groves,  follow  uninterruptedly  for  a  space 
of  over  100  miles.  West  of  the  U-Banghi,  the  Ba-Lohi  (Bu-Loi),  noted  for 
their  herculean  strength  and  muscular  development,  are  on  the  contrary  scattered 
in  isolated  groups  about  the  windings  of  the  stream.  All  these  populations  of 
the  U-Bunghi  basin  are  remarkable  for  their  physical  strength  and  beauty,  and 
are  distinguished  from  each  other  by  their  tattoo  marks  and  different  styles  of 
headdress.  Cannibalism  is  very  prevalent,  all  captives  being  eaten.  The  Mbonjos 
wear  a  singular  costume,  made  up  of  foliage  and  fishing-nets. 

In  the  region  of  the  French  Congo,  by  far  the  most  numerous  nation  are  ihe 
Bu-Banghi,  who  dwell  in  the  U-Banghi  valley,  and  who  rival  the  Fans  themselves 
of  the  Ogoway  basin  in  numbers.  According  to  De  Chevannes,  these  Negroes  of 
Bantu  stock  cannot  be  estimated  at  less  than  one  million.  Annrngst  them  are 
comprised  tribes  bearing  various  names,  such  as  the  Ap-Furu  of  the  Alinia  River, 
and  the  Ba-Zanzi  (Ba-Nyanzi),  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Congo,  all  of  whom 
certainly  belong  to  the  same  family,  for  they  speik  the  same  language  and 
practise  the  same  usages  and  system  of  tattooing.  Villages  of  two  or  three 
thousand  inhabitants  are  by  no  means  rare  in  the  territory  of  the  Bu-Banghi, 
who  came  traditionally  from  the  north  towards  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century. 
They  penetrated  as  far  as  the  banks  of  the  Lefini,  where  they  were  arrested  by 
the  king  of  the  Ba-Teke,  who  vanquished  them  in  a  battle  which  lasted  three 
days.  Ever  since  that  time  they  are  unable  to  descend  in  canoes  down  to  Stanley 
Pool  without  paying  tribute  to  a  Ba-Teke  official,  bearing  the  title  of  the  "  River 
Chief."  Nevertheless,  they  still  continue  to  advance  southwards,  and  are  generally 
well  received,  owing  to  the  part  they  play  as  agents  of  the  local  traffic. 

The  Bu-Banghi  are  a  highly  enterprising  people,  daring  speculators  and  great 
newsmongers,  so  that  on  their  arrival  in  a  village  they  are  immediately  sur- 
rounded by  eager  listeners.  They  are  also  the  leaders  of  fashion  for  all  the 
surrounding  populations,  for  they  display  great  skill  in  dressing  their  hair  in 
points  and  bars,  in  painting  the  body  and  covering  it  with  tattoo  patterns  and 
raised  seams  or  welts,  produced  by  means  of  two  bamboo  twigs  forming  a  seton. 
The  women  submit  to  the  torture  of  wearing  massive  copper  necklaces  and  leg 
ornaments,  and  some  of  the  great  ladies  toil  painfully  along  under  a  load  of 
jewellery  weighing  a  hundred  and  ten  or  even  a  hundred  and  twenty  and  a 
hundred  and  thirty  pounds. 

The  post  of  Nkunjia,  which  the  French  had  founded  in  the  Bu-Banghi  terri- 
tory, has  had  to  be  abandoned,  for  it  stood  on  the  left  bank  of  the  U-Banghi, 


E¥U. 


THE  FRENCH  CONGO. 


477 


,  which  18  by 
I  jo,  and  Mu- 
he  Ba-Ngala 
^-grounds,  or 
8,  as  many  as 
)y   a  kind  of 

anghi  and  the 
lly  for  a  space 
oi),  noted  for 
trary  scattered 
populations  of 
id  beauty,  and 
erent  styles  of 
The  Mbonjos 

nation  are  the 
ans  themselves 
5se  Negroes  of 
mgst  them  are 
e  Alima  River, 
all   of  whom 
language  and  ; 
f   two  or  three 
the  Bu-Banghi, 
iteenth  century, 
ere  arrested  by 
ich  lasted  three 
lown  to  Stanley 
e  of  the  "  River 
nd  are  generally 
affic. 

ilators  and  great 
mraediately  sur- 
hion  for  all  the 
ig  their  hair  in 
too  patterns  and 
forming  a  seton. 
ecklaces  and  leg 
under  a  load  of 
id  twenty  and  a 

Bu-Banghi  terri- 
of  the  U-Banghi, 


which  the  recent  convention  has  restored  to  the  Congo  Free  State.  The  great 
market  of  the  whole  country,  also  lying  within  the  Free  State,  is  the  group  of 
villages  hearing  the  collective  name  of  Ircbu  (Ilcbu),  on  the  emissary  through 
which  Lake  Montumba  sends  its  overflow  to  the  Congo,  nearly  opjMsito  the 
U-Banghi  confluence. 

■  In  the  Upper  Bungu  and  Likwalla  basins,  which  flow  eastwards  to  the  U- 
Banghi,  dwell  the  Jambi,  the  Okotas,  the  Okangas,  the  Ubctas,  and  the  Ba-Mbu. 
But  of  these  peoples  little  is  known  beyond  their  names,  for  Jacques  de  Brazza 
and  Pecile,  who  have  alone  visited  their  territory,  were  not  well  received,  and 
were  unable  to  reside  for  any  length  of  time  amongst  them.  The  lower  course  of 
these  rivers,  as  well  as  of  the  Alima,  is  comprised  withiu  the  territory  of  the  Bu- 
Banghi,  who,  however,  here  take  the  name  of  Ap-Furu,  or  Ba-Furu.  Like  thp 
other  members  of  the  nation,  they  are  mostly  itinerant  traders,  whole  family 
groups  consisting  of  persons  born  afloat  and  destined  to  die  in  their  canoes.  The 
floating  villages  are  in  man}'  places  more  numerous  and  more  populous  than  those 
situated  on  the  mainland.  From  the  Ba-Teke  of  the  Upper  Alima,  the  Ap-Furu 
boatmen  purchase  manioc,  which  they  grind  to  flour  and  sell  to  the  populations 
lower  down,  the  quantity  of  this  article  thus  daily  retailed  being  estimated  at  no 
less  than  ten  tons.  '  . ,    •?  /  K    ,  »  '      ■   .       » 

r  Thanks  to  this  commercial  movement,  the  Alima,  of  all  the  rivers  in  the  French 
Congo  territory,  has  acquired  the  greatest  strategical  importance.  It  possesses  all  the 
greater  value  that  it  rises  in  the  same  transverse  valley  as  the  Ogoway,  and,  conse- 
quently, continues  the  waterway  formed  by  this  river  between  the  northern  and 
southern  sections  of  the  Gaboon-Ogoway  region.  The  road  already  constructed 
on  the  waterparting  to  the  east  of  Franceville  has  its  present  terminus  on  a 
tributary  of  the  Alima,  and  stations  have  here  been  founded  at  intervals  to  relieve 
the  porters  and  further  the  transit  of  merchandise. 

DiSl^,  the  station  lying  nearest  to  the  sources,  is  situated  on  a  river  of  like 
name,  while  the  Alima  station  itself  stands  at  the  point  where  the  Diel^  and 
the  Gombo  mingle  their  waters  to  form  the  Alima  proper.  Beyond  it  follows 
Leketi,  at  another  confluence  of  the  main  stream,  and  Pomho  (Mbonhi)  near  the 
Alima-Congo  confluence.  Pombo  has  been  founded  chiefly  in-  the  purpose  of 
supplying  the  "straw"  and  "bamboos,"  or  raphia  fibre,  to  the  dlations  along  the 
Congo. 

The  Mhoshi,  who  give  an  alternative  name  to  this  post  on  the  Lower  Alima, 
are  one  of  the  most  savage  peoples  in  the  whole  Congo  region.  Their  defiant  and 
dogged  attitude  renders  them  a  thorn  in  the  side  of  their  more  peaceful  Ba-Teke 
and  Ap-Furu  neighbours,  and  the  French  themselves  have  had  much  trouble  in 
maintaining  the  station  of  Pombo  in  their  territory.  Physically  the  Mboshi  are  a 
tall  and  stalwart  race,  but  lack  the  graceful  carriage  of  the  Ba-Teke  and  the 
sculpturesque  beauty  of  the  Ap-Furus.  They  are  probably  of  mixed  origin,  and 
interminglings  still  continue,  for  those  dwelling  on  the  banks  of  the  river  prefer 
to  take  wives  from  foreign  tribes. 

From  the  fetishmen,  who  are  at  once  wizards,  judges,  and  executioners,  they 


■*;.  . 


478 


WEST  AFRICA. 


5 


*■*■ 


endeavour  to  protect  themselves  by  ranny-eoloured  murks  duube(?  round  the  orbits 
and  on  other  parts  of  the  face.  Thus  white  preserves  them  from  drowning,  red 
from  wounds,  yellow  from  fire.  Unlike  most  other  Negroes,  they  are  indifferent 
to  personal  ortuimentution,  and  despise  the  meretricious  eharms  of  the  toilet  in 
which  so  many  native  tribes  spend  u  grca,t  part  of  their  existence.  Thoy  display 
no  taste  for  art,  and  even  the  dunce  and  tam-tamming  are  reserved  for  solemn 
occasions  ef  national  interest. 

The  Ba-Teke  occupy  the  riverain  tracts  along  the  Upper  Alima  and  the 
upland  vmterparting,  which  in  many  pluces  is  strewn  with  a  white  sand  giving  it 
the  app'iurance  of  a  saline  waste.     Some  of  the  tribes  encroach  westwards  on  the 

Fig.  244. — Dead  Tbumkb  ov  Paucs  near  M'svala,  on  trx  Oonoo. 


Ogoway  basin,  and  southwards  on  the  district  watered  by  the  Nkheni  and  the 
Letini.  They  even  cross  to  the  left  side  of  the  Congo  south  of  Kwamouth,  and 
their  domain  is  altogether  scarcely  less  extensive  than  that  of  the  Bu-Banghi, 
although  the  several  tribes  differ  greatly  one  from  the  other.  The  Ba-Teke  of  the 
plateaux  present  marked  contrasts  to  the  Bu-Banghi,  both  in  physical  appearance 
and  social  usages.  They  are  less  robust,  of  smaller  stature  and  less  stout,  most  of 
them  being  so  very  thin  that  they  have  been  compared  to  "  walking  skeletons." 
They  are  remarkably  frugal,  a  little  manioc  and  a  few  grubs  or  insects  picked  up 
on  the  way  sufficing  to  support  them. even  on  the  march.  The  women  carry  long 
sticks,  furnished  at  the  extremity  with  a  little  raw  hemp,  which  serves  to  catch 


iind  tlie  orbits 
irowning,  red 
iro  iiulifferent 
the  toilet  in 
They  disphiy 
ed  for  solemn 


Nkheni  and  the 
f  Kwamouth,  and 
:  the  Bu-BangW, 
he  Ba-Teke  of  the 
lysical  appearance 

less  stout,  most  of 
alking  skeletons." 

insects  picked  up 
women  carry  long 
loh  serves  to  catch 


TUE  UA-TEKE. 


the  grasshoppers,  the  "  Ba-Toko  food,"  as  they  arc  culled.     Insects  arc  taken  by 
firing  the  grass,  and  tha  Ba-Teke  are  also  partial  to  smoked  toads,  although  prcfor- 


470 


ring  to  all  other  meat  the  roasted  larvae  of  certain  species  of  butterflies.     In  time 
of  war  they  also  still  practise  caniiibalism,  eating  the  captives  and  slain  in  battle. 
Despite  their  frugal  fare  the  Ba-Teke  are  brave  workers,  taking  their  share  with 


1^1^  H.|i»  Flu  I  I  iiftjijny.  II.    I>^M   iiy  |i.  ■.IL«)     - 


"IT? 


480 


WEST  AFRICA. 


(;. 


tho  women  in  fioKl  n|)erati«)n«,  ami  riiising;  crops  of  manioc,  mi  .nt,  maize,  Hugar, 
pround-niitH,  und  tobacco.  The  women  ure  much  resjK'ctod,  being  allowwl  to  apeak 
in  thu  public  ussemblies,  und  making  their  voices  beard  on  all  important  oecoBionB. 
The  group  of  habitationB,  well  kept  and  unuully  perched  on  some  eminence,  has  its 
cluster  of  palms,  wboHe  size  indicates  tho  age  of  tho  settlement.  Tho  foliage  of 
these  paltns  servos  to  manufocturo  the  native  loin-cloths,  as  well  as  the  robes  of 
larger  diuu'nsions  worn  by  the  chiefs.  From  other  varieties  they  extract  oil  and 
wine;  but,  like  the  lUi-Hanghi  and  Ha-Yanzi,  tho  Bu-Teke  at  last  kill  these 
valuable  plants,  which  when  leafless  and  of  a  sombre  grey  pretont  the  appearance 
of  so  many  gibbets  set  up  on  the  hillside. 

The  pliiteau  whence  flows  the  Alima  is  hold  by  the  Ashi-Kuyas,  who  also 
belong  to  the  Ba-Teke  confederocy,  and  whose  great  chief,  Nghia-Komunghiri, 
shares  the  temporal  power  with  the  Makoko.  According  to  Jacques  de  Brazza,  the 
Ashi-Kuyas  are  the  most  skilful  weavers  in  the  whole  of  the  French  Congo 
territory.  liions  and  leopards  are  numerous  on  the  banks  of  the  Nkheni ;  but 
they  rarely  attack  men,  whereas  on  the  U-Banghi  these  rapacious  animals  are 
much  dreaded.  The  heron,  here  a  fetish  bird,  builds  in  multitudes  on  the  trees 
overhanging  the  river-banks.  • 

On  the  French  side  of  the  Congo  the  riverain  tracts  below  the  Nkheni  con- 
fluence are  occupied  by  a  few  stations,  such  as  Ngatchn,  on  a  i-ocky  headland, 
which  derives  some  importance  from  its  position  a  little  below  the  junction  of  the 
Kusaui  and  Congo  opposite  Mnuafn,  on  the  left  bank. 

Tho  chief  station  in  the  French  Congo  domain  has  received  the  name  of  Brazza- 
ville, from  the  bold  and  pprsevering  pioneer  who  opened  up  this  region  to  science. 
It  wns  near  this  spot  that  Brazza  "  buried  tho  hutchct,"  and  mude  peace  between 
the  blacks  und  the  Fallu,  or  "  French  "  whites.  "  We  will  bury  war  so  deeply 
that  neither  we  nor  our  children  shall  be  able  to  dig  it  up,  and  the  tree  that  shall 
take  root  herb  shall  be  as  a  witness  to  the  alliance  between  the  whites  and  the 
blacks."  Thus  spoke  the  chiefs,  to  whom  Brazza  replied :  "  May  peace  last  until 
this  tree  produce  bullets,  cartouches,  or  powder !  "  It  was  in  1880,  fifteen  months 
■before  any  other  Europeans  effected  a  settlement  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Congo, 
that  the  French  took  possession  of  the  port  of  Mfaa,  since  called  Brazzaville.  It 
was  abandoned  two  yejrs  later,  but  again  definitely  occupied  in  1883. 

This  part  of  the  French  Congo  is  inhabited  chi.-fly  by  the  Ba-Lalli,  a  half- 
caste  Ba-Teke  tribe,  who  are  still  cannibals,  eating  the  bodies  of  slaves  and  of  the 
caravan  people  who  die  in  their  territory.  On  the  arrival  of  the  Europeans  the 
complaint  was  made  that  bodies  were  now  buried  instead  of  being  exchanged  for 
sheep,  bananas,  and  manioc.  All  freemen,  however,  are  buried  by  the  Ba-Lalli 
themselves  with  many  strange  rites.  At  the  death  of  a  Mo-Lalli  the  corpse  is 
placed  in  a  long  wooden  cylinder,  which  is  kept  for  a  month  in  the  house,  as  if  it 
were  still  alive.  On  the  day  of  burial  fetishes  are  placed  on  the  cylinder,  which  is 
decked  with  feathers,  foliage,  and  ribbons,  and  then  wrapped  in  cerements  until 
its  bulk  is  about  doubled.  The  lofty  bier  containing  the  coffin  is  then  fixed  on  a 
pivot  supported  by  three  long  parallel  poles,  the  bearers  of  which  start  off  at  a 


THE  KAS8A1  BASIN. 


Ml 


maizo,  Hugar, 
)W<'d  to  speuk 
unt  occasions, 
inencc,  has  its 
ho  foliugc  of 
8  the  robes  of 
xtract  oil  and 
ast  kill  tlu!8e 
tio  appearance 

ya«,  who  also 
u-Komunghiri, 
de  Brazza,  the 
French  Congo 
>  Nkheni ;  but 
lis  animals  are 
s  on  the  trees 

le  Nkheni  con- 
ocky  headland, 
junction  of  the 

tiame  of  Brazza- 
>gion  to  science. 
I  peace  between 
war  so  deeply 
)  tree  that  shall 
whites  and  the 
peace  last  until 
),  fifteen  months 
de  of  the  Congo, 
Brazzarille.  It 
83. 

)a-Lalli,  a  half- 
ilaves  and  of  the 
)  Europeans  the 
g  exchanged  for 
by  the  Ba-Lalli 
Hi  the  corpse  is 
;he  house,  as  if  it 
lylinder,  which  is 
1  cerements  until 
Is  then  fixed  on  a 
Lch  start  off  at  a 


running  pu<!e,  all  the  time  whirling  round  and  round  with  the  pivot,  which  is 
doubtU'Hs  done  to  scare  or  distract  the  evil  cpirits.  On  arriving,  panting  and 
perspiring,  at  the  grave,  each  ro'^iimes  the  clothoH  ho  hun  lent  for  iho  procopsion, 
and  the  body  is  shot  into  the  pit,  care,  however,  being  taken  to  keop  open  the 
aperture  made  ut  one  end  of  the  coffin,  just  above  the  mouth.  Through  this 
opening  palm-wine  Is  supplied  to  the  deceased,  who  is  still  regarded  as  sharing  in 
the  feast N  of  the  living. 

A  few  hours'  journey  to  the  south- west  of  Rruzzuville,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
rapids,  the  Cutholic  missionaries  have  founded  the  station  of  Linzolo,  which  has 
acquired  some  iraiiortauce  us  a  model  farm  and  as  a  centre  of  acclimatisation  for 
the  plants  and  auimob  of  the  temperate  zone. 

The  Kahsai  Basin. 

This  vast  and  populous  region,  abounding  in  running  waters  and  fertile  valleys, 
has  already  been  shared  politically  between  the  Congo  Free  State  and  Portugal. 
But  the  land  itself  still  remains  unoccupied,  and  even  very  imperfectly  surveyed, 
many  tracts  4,000  or  5,0u0  square  miles  in  extent  not  having  yet  been  visited  by 
uny  explorer.  Hitherto  only  one  European  station  has  been  founded  in  the  Kassai 
territory,  above  the  Kwango  confluence,  and  the  so-calkd  "  Portuguese,"  or  half- 
caste  negro  traders  have  established  themselves  in  very  few  villages  for  the  purpose 
of  exchanging  cloth  for  ivory.  Neaily  the  whole  region  is  still  divided  into  petty 
states,  some  completely  independent,  others  real  or  nominal  vassals  of  some  more 
powerful  ruler.  A  considerable  part  of  the  country  is  also  comprised  within  the 
somewhat  doubtful  limits  of  the  extensive  empire  of  the  Muato  Yamvo.  ' 

The  eastern  streams  rising  in  the  swampy  divide,  where  the  Lua-Laba  and 
Zambese  afHiients  also  have  their  source,  water  the  districts  bordering  on  Msiri's 
empire  and  inhabited  by  tribes  both  of  Rua  and  Lunda  stock.  In  some  villages 
these  tribes  are  even  intermingled,  the  poor  Vua-Lunda,  clothed  only  with  a 
leathern  apron  or  a  bark  loin-cloth,  associating  with  the  rich  Yua-Rua,  who, 
like  those  of  the  Lua-Laba,  are  also  relatively  more  civilised.  The  copper- 
mines  found  in  this  region  were  being  worked  by  these  natives  at  the  time  of 
Cameron's  journey. 

The  hilly  district  between  the  Lu-Bilash  and  Lo-Mami  headstreams  of  the 
Sankuru  is  occupied  by  the  Ba-Songe,  the  Bu-Sung^,  and  other  peoples  of  the  same 
stock  and  speech.  West  of  the  Lu-Bilash  these  natives  are  known  by  the  name  of 
Ba-Luba,  while  still  farther  west,  on  he  banks  of  the  Lu-Lua  and  Eussai  they  are 
called  Tu-Shilange  and  Ba-Shilunge.  The  Ba-8onge  are  one  of  the  finest  and 
most  athletic  Negro  races,  although  their  features  are  somewhat  suggestive  of  the 
bull-dog.  They  are  also  intelligent  and  industrious,  skilfully  manipulating  iron 
and  copper,  clay  and  wood,  and  producing  earthenware,  woven  fabrics,  and  basket- 
work  ornamented  with  considerable  taste.  In  striking  contrast  to  most  other 
African  peoples,  the  men  of  the  Ba-Songe  tribes  perform  all  field  operations, 
leaving  to  the  women  the  household  duties  and  industrial  arts.     They  are  also 


iiMatm 


I^MiiS 


^"vm 


.'''W.!,'J:-'M"''-""^  "H^f' 


'■'iqwuijwuwi" 


482 


WEST  AFRICA. 


^■- 


expert  hunters,  but  their  religious  observances  are  still  occasionally  associated 
with  cannibalistic  practices. 

Till  recent  years  the  Ba-Songe  maintained  no  direct  relations  of  any  sort 
either  with  Europeans,  or  even  with  the  Negro  traders  of  the  western  Portuguese 
possessions.     The  Arab  caravans,  had  penetrated  from  the  east  no  farther  than  the 


'         I 


Fig.  2i6.~CBiEF  Routes  of  Exflobebs  in  the  K&ssai  Basin. 
Soda  1 : 9,000,000. 


fa-J«Am. 


10' 


1 


ImP*- 


|I?5-«' 


\  / 


lO* 


East  of  bf-eenwich        18° 


23° 


180  Milei. 


-V 


territory  of  tlie  Kalebwe  tribe  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lo-Marai.  Hence  when 
Wissmann  and  Pogge  traversed  this  region  in  the  year  1881  the  people  threw 
themselves  at  their  feet  as  if  they  were  gods  or  demons.  In  the  white  strangers 
caravan  everything  was  new  for  the  Ba-Songe,  who  had  never  seen  a  pack-ox, 
firearms,  or  the  thousand  curious  objects  brought  from  unknown  lands  to  be 
bartered  for  ivory  and  provisions.     The  white  men  were  well  received  in  the 


ns  of  any  sort 
jrn  Portuguese 
irther  than  the 


THE  KASSAI  BASIN. 


488 


irai.  Hence  when 
L  the  people  threw 
le  white  strangers 
er  seen  a  pack-ox, 
nown  lands  to  be 
11  received  in  the 


western  districts,  where  no  Arabs  had  yet  been  seen.  But  in  the  east,  where 
these  Semites  had  already  made  trading  expeditions,  all  the  villagers  fled  in  terror, 
or  entrenched  themselves  behind  their  palisaded  enclosures.  They  even  went 
the  length  of  slaying  the  cattle  which  they  were  unable  to  drive  away  fast  enough 
to  places  of  safety  beyond  the  reach  of  the  strangers. 

The  Ba-Songe  are  a  numerous  nation,  their  territory  being  no  less  densely 
peopled  than  many  of  the  niore  crowded  parts  of  Europe  itself.  On  all  the  inter- 
fluvial  sections  of  the  plateau  are  developed  interminable  villages,  which  have 
been  compared  to  "  black  caterpillars  crawling  over  the  grassy  surface  of  the 
prairies."  Two  or  three  parallel  streets  lined  by  houses  and  gardens  wind  along 
ihe  crests  of  the  escarpments,  and  but  for  the  shape  of  the  huts,  the  traveller 
might  fancy  himself  in  Upper  Normandy  between  the  river  valleys  flowing  to  the 
Channel.  But  the  Ba-Songe  villages  are  larger  than  those  of  the  north-west  of 
France,  and  the  Germau  explorers  took  no  less  than  five  hours  to  traverse  one  of 
the  more  elevated  settlements  from  end  to  end.     The  population  of  the  larger 

■  K-r,  ■.  ■■■'  ■■  -  •-  -  '  , 

;'•?.  Fig.  247.- BA-Soiraa  VnxAoiM.  ;,       .f. 

Scale  1  : 1,100,000. 


Klkamii/Kwiidia 


^^r. 


Last  oT  U'eenwicVi 


v 


24.*S0' 


ISMile^. 


groups  is  estimated  by  Wolf  at  nearly  fifteen  thousand,  and  the  travellers  were 
received  by  the  village  chiefs  at  the  head  of  over  a  thousand  warriors. 

Eanh  of  thef?e  long  lines  of  habitations  ^orms  a  little  autonomous  republic, 
which  however  recognises  the  virtual  suzerainty  of  a  king,  who  resides  in  the 
Koto  country,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lu-Bilash.  This  potentate  is  a  great 
fetishman,  who  enforces  obedience  through  fear  of  his  magic  arts.  But  iu  Fogge 
and  Wissmann  he  met  more  formidable  fetishmen  than  himself,  for  having 
refused  to  let  them  proceed  on  their  journey,  the  travellers  spent  the  night  in 
discharging  rifles,  sending  up  rockets,  and  burning  Bengal  lights.  This  produced 
the  desired  efEect,  and  the  king  issued  immediate  orders  for  their  departure. 

Amongst  the  Ba-Songe,  as  well  as  in  the  M-Nyema  territory,  a  few  wretched 
villages  are  occupied  by  communities  of  those  timid  and  dwarfish  Ba-Twa  (Vua- 
Twa)  tribes,  who  are  regarded  as  survivors  of  the  aboriginal  population.  Other 
peoples  along  the  banks  of  the  Lo-Mami  conceal  their  dwellings  in  the  leafy 


!PAfeSiKwia^«^'^jSP*SWii^W''--S^;^^^^^^^ 


>:';;30Ci^ii!K-f2^i:iM 


mm 


484 


WEST  AFRICA. 


kr 


¥■ 
P 


branches  of  large  forest-trees.  These  woodlands  also  afford  shelter  to  myriads  of 
grey  parrots,  which  at  sunset  rise  in  dense  clouds  above  the  Lu-Bilash,  the 
Sankuru,  and  Lu-Kenye. 

The  Lu-Lua,  the  Eassai,  and  their  various  headstreams  chiefly  water  the 
territory  of  the  Eu-Lunda,  a  numerous  nation  bearing  the  same  name  and  perhapet 
belonging  to  the  same  stock  as  the  populations  occupying  the  southern  shores  of 
Lake  Moero.  The  Eu-Lunda  of  the  Eussai  region  are  the  dominant  people  in  the 
kingdom  governed  by  the  Muata  Yamvo,  and  their  name  is  sometimes  given  to 
this  Htate,  which  is  the  most  extensive  in  the  whole  of  Central  Africa.  West  of 
the  Lu-Bilash  they  occupy  all  the  territory  about  the  sources  of  the  Lu-Lua 
and  Eassai  as  far  as  the  Zambese ;  under  the  name  of  Ba-Lua  they  inhabit  the 
districts  where  the  Lu-Lua  emerges  on  the  plains  from  the  narrow  uplaud  valleys, 
and  beyond  the  Eassai  they  also  hold  a  great  part  of  the  intermediate  zone 
between  the  elevated  plateau  and  the  low- lying  tracts. 

The  Ea-Lunda  are  a  taller  and  stronger  race  of  Negroes  than  those  of  the 

Portuguese  possessions  on  the  west  coast.     Their  complexion  is  also  lighter  and 

their  lips  leiis  tumid  ;  but  the  nobles  have  the  practice  of  compressing  the  beads 

of  their  children  in  such  a  way  as  to  give  a  monstrous  shape  to  the  posterior  part 

the  skull.       :  .    ,,  ' 

Far  less  industrious  than  the  Ba-Songe,  the  Ea-Lunda  are  to  a  large  extent 
dependent  on  their  neighbours  for  the  various  utensils  and  other  objects  of  which 
they  stand  in  need.  From  the  Eiokos  of  the  sou.  ti- west  they  obtain  woven  goods 
and  ironware  ;  from  the  southern  and  south-eastern  tribes  copper  goods,  and  in 
some  places  they  have  even  no  salt,  for  which  they  are  obliged  to  substitute  the 
ashes  of  certain  alkaline  herbs.  Next  to  those  of  the  Yua-Twa  pigmies,  their 
hovels  are  the  most  wretched  in  appearance  in  the  whole  of  the  interior  of  the 
continent,  being  little  better  than  mere  heaps  of  hay  usually  not  more  than  8  or 
10  feet  high. 

The  Ea-Lunda  are  hospitable,  and  of  a  kindly,  peaceful  disposition,  at  least  in 
districts  not  visited  by  the  foreign  traders,  from  whom  the  people  learn  the  arts  of 
duplicity,  falsehood,  and  chicanery.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  royal  residence, 
idleness  and  parasitic  habits  also  tend  to  demoralise  the  natives,  for  the  Muata 
Yumvo's  state  is  a  veritable  feudal  empire,  in  which  all  the  vassal  lords  are  bound 
to  pay  tribute.  The  various  moiins,  and  muenen — that  is,  chiefs — render  homage  to 
the  Muata,  or  sovereign,  paying  him  contributions  derived  from  the  imposts  levied 
on  their  respective  subjects.  These  imposts,  however,  are  not  fixed,  but  vary 
according  to  the  resources  of  the  different  provinces.  Thus  one  will  offer  an 
elephant's  tusk.,  an  animal  taken  in  the  chase,  or  a  lion's  or  a  leopard's  skin ; 
another  fruits,  manioc,  com,  cloth,  or  salt,  and  so  on.  Nor  are  there  any  clearly 
defined  periods  for  raising  these  contributions,  so  much  depending  on  the  distances 
from  the  capital,  the  rivers  or  swamps  to  be  crossed,  the  commencement  and  duration 
of  the  rainy  season,  and  suchlike  circumstances.  Usually  the  caravans  of  the  more 
remote  vassals  present  themselves  at  the  royal  court  once  a  year,  while  the  chiefs 
of  neighbouring  tribes,  being  more  under  the  effective  control  of  the  supreme 


myriads  of 
Bilash,  the 

water  the 
md  perhaps 
m  shores  of 
eople  in  the 
les  given  to 
West  of 
the  Lu-Lua 

inhahit  the 
laud  valleys, 
lediate  zone 

those  of  the 

0  lighter  and 
ng  the  heads 
posterior  part 

1  large  extent 
jects  of  which 
I  woven  goods 

goods,  and  in 
substitute  the 
pigmies,  their 
interior  of  the 
nore  than  8  or 


ion,  at  least  in 
>arn  the  arts  of 
oyal  residence, 
for  the  Muata 
lords  are  hound 
ader  homage  to 
s  imposts  levied 
fixed,  but  vary 
e  will  offer  an 
leopard's  skin; 
lere  any  clearly 
on  the  distances 
ent  and  duration 
^ans  of  the  more 
while  the  chiefs 
of  the  supreme 


A 


r-- 


i-r:-,  -■..>'"'..•"  *^ 


THE  KA-LUNDA. 


485 


authority,  are  fain  to  make  their  appearance  several  times  in  the  course  of  the 
year,  and  ahv  '  vs  laden  with  presents.  It  also  frequently  happens  that  the  feuda- 
tories in  the  more  distant  provinces  neglect  to  discharge  their  obligations  when  they 
feel  themselves  strong  enough  to  sever  the  tie  of  vassalage  binding  them  to  their 
liege  lord.  Thus  the  limits  of  the  empire  have  never  ceased  to  fluctuate  since  the 
establishment  of  the  dynasty  of  the  reigning  Lunda  sovereigns,  who  are  themselves 
never  accurately  informed  as  to  the  real  extent  of  their  dominions. 

At  the  death  of  a  sovereign  the  new  muata  does  not  succeed  his  father  by  right, 
but  has  to  be  chosen  amongst  the  children  of  one  of  the  defunct  king's  two  chief 
wives.  The  selection  is  made  by  four  chief  electors,  that  is,  the  first  ond  second 
"  Sons  of  the  State,"  the  "  Son  of  Arms,"  and  the  "  State  Cook  ;"  but  their  choice 
has  still  to  bo  ratified  by  Lukoshesha,  "Mother  of  the  kings  and  the  people."  This 
lady  herself,  who  is  also  a  queen  possessing  several  districts  in  absolute  sovereignty, 
is  elected  from  amongst  the  daughters  of  the  two  chief  wives  by  the  four  great 
ministers,  and  their  decision  is  absolute  only  after  its  confirmation  by  the  king. 
This  institution  of  the  "  universal  mother,"  which  seems  a  survival  of  ancient 
matriarchal  usages,  is  an  all  the  more  curious  phenomenon,  that  amongst  the 
liundi  people  generally  the  inheritance  follows  directly  from  father  to  son,  and 
not  from  uncle  to  sister's  son,  as  is  the  case  amongst  the  Kiokos.  Of  all  the 
inhabitants  of  the  land,  Lukoshesha  alone  stands  above  the  laws ;  she  alone  is 
exempt  from  the  Muata  Yamvo's  authority.  Being  mother  of  all  she  cannot  have 
a  husband,  and  the  person  chosen  by  her  bears  only  the  name  of  favourite  slave. 
Nor  can  she  have  any  children,  so  that  all  bom  to  her  are  at  once  destroyed. 

Immediately  after  his  nomination,  the  Muata  Yamvo  is  presented  with  the 
insignia  of  authority  :  the  iron  »ckle,  the  parrot-feather  crown,  the  elephant-skin 
bracelet,  the  pearl  and  metal  necklace,  the  grand  carpet  of  the  empire,  and  the 
order  of  the  lukano,  which  corresponds  to  the  orders  of  chivalry  instituted  by 
European  sovereigns.  Then  he  camps  out  for  a  n'ght  near  the  Kalangi  River,  in 
order  to  renew  the  strength  of  the  realm  by  breathing  a  free  atmosphere  and 
bathing  in  the  sacred  stream.  He  is  even  required  again  to  assume  the  part  of 
creator,  producing  afresh  the  new  fire  at  which  aU  the  hearths  of  the  kingdom 
shall  henceforth  be  kindled.  By  tlio  friction  of  pieces  of  stick  rubbed  one  against 
the  other  he  creates  the  flame,  emblem  of  his  divinity.  For  he  is  now  a  god, 
absolute  master  of  the  life  and  freedom  of  all  his  subjects ;  he  appoints  all  state 
functionaries,  ennobles  or  degrades  whom  he  chooses,  takes  possession  of  all  he 
fancies. 

The  mussamba,  or  imperial  residence,  is  displaced  with  every  new  reign  ;  but 
the  site  chosen  lies  always  within  the  great  plain  limited  by  the  Ealangi  and  Lu- 
l2a,  both  eastern  affluents  of  the  Lu-Lua.  For  the  capital  must  needs  be  situated 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  holy  place,  where  dwelt  the  first  Muata- Yamvo,  that 
is,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Ealangi,  and  not  far  from  the  enza'i  or  graveyard, 
where  are  deposited  the  remains  of  the  fourteen  sovereigns  of  this  dynasty,  who 
have  successively  reigned  over  Lunda  Land.  During  Pogge's  journey  in  1876, 
the  mussamba  was  at  Kmmemi,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ealangi ;  four  years  later, 


jB.ywJiiauWiWmA,Ui»8iiaM*^ 


f 


486 


WEST  AFRICA. 


f? 


^) 


m 


t: 


J^W 


•■ 


' 


f- 


at  the  time  of  Bucbuer's  visit  to  the  royal  court,  it  had  been  transferred  to 
Kaimnda,  some  12  milea  to  the  south-west,  and  about  midway  between  both 
affluents.  The  huts  of  the  capital  are  scattered  over  a  wide  extent  of  ground, 
some  grouped  together  "  promiscuously  "  like  mole-hills,  others  enclosed  within 
a  reotangulfir  palisade,  formed  of  stakes  or  saplings,  which  are  planted  in  the 
ground  at  the  beginning  of  the  rainy  season,  and  which,  striking  root,  rapidly 
grow  into  large  leafy  trees.      Pogge  estimated  at  from  eight  to  ten  thousand  the 

Fig.  248.-  Lasob  States  in  the  Cunoo  Basin. 
Scale  1 :  24,000,000. 


,  SOOHilei. 


number  of  persons  dwelling  in  the  mussamba  within  a  radius  of  a  mile  and  a 
quarter  from  the  royal  enclosure. 

North  of  the  territory  chosen  as  the  site  of  the  royal  residence,  the  domain  of 
the  Muata  Yamvo  extends  to  no  great  distance,  the  banks  of  the  Lu-Lua  and  its 
tributaries  being  occupied  in  this  direction  by  the  savage  Ka- Wanda  people,  who 
have  hitherto  valiantly  resisted  all  attempts  at  conquest.  Their  bowmen  are  said 
to  dip  their  arrowheads  in  a  very  active  poison,  of  which  they  alone  have  the 
secret,  and  with  which  they  imbue  the  thorny  bushes  along  the  tracts  in  order  to 
destroy  the  enemy  penetrating  into  their  territory.  In  any  case,  no  European 
explorer  has  yet  succeeded  in  making  his  way  into  the  Ka- Wanda  country. 


^Mb«. 


THE  BA-LUBA. 


487 


sferred  to 
veen  both 
)f  ground, 
led  within 
ed  in  the 
>ot,  rapidly 
ousand  tho 


.-U 


0* 


r"' 


a  mile  and  a 

the  domain  of 
jU-Lua  and  its 
da  people,  who 
jwmen  are  said 
alone  have  the 
acts  in  order  to 
5,  no  European 
jountry. 


Farther  north,  in  the  same  Lu-Lua  basin,  follow  the  Tu-Bindi  and  the  Ba- 
Lindi  tribes,  which  also  lie  beyond  the  routes  hitherto  followed  by  explorers.  But 
farther  on  begins  the  domain  of  the  Ba-Luba  nation,  who  occupy  a  vast  region 
stretching  from  the  Kassai  to  the  Lo-Mami,  and  even  reaching  beyond  the  right 
bank  of  the  latter  river.  The  Ba-Luba  are  the  kinsmen  and  neighbours  of  the 
Ba-3onge,  and  like  them  seem  richly  endowed  by  nature,  and  destined  rapidly  to 
approach  the  level  of  the  whites  in  social  usages  and  culture.  They  were  first 
visited  by  Pogge  and  Wissmann  in  1881,  and  since  then  their  territory  has  been 
traversed  by  other  explorers*  Owing  to  the  peculiar  views  of  the  natives  on  the 
transmigration  of  souls,  they  wore  well  received,  being  regarded  as  the  captains 
and  relatives  of  the  king,  who,  after  death,  had  reappeared  again  from  beyond  the 
great  water,  returning  to  their  homes  bleached  by  their  long  sojourn  in  distant 
lands.  The  names  were  restored  to  them  which  they  were  supposed  to  have 
formerly  borne  ;  wives  and  kindred  came  to  testify  their  great  joy  at  their  return  ; 
they  were  even  reinstated  in  the  possession  of  the  goods  of  this  world  which  were 
once  theirs. 

According  to  their  traditions  the  Ba-Luba  came  from  the  south-east,  that  is, 
from  the  Upper  Congo  or  Lua-Luba  valleys.  In  the  north-western  districts, 
where  they  have  penetrated  farthest,  they  have  taken  the  name  of  Tu-8hilange  or 
Ba-Shilange,  which  appears  to  be  that  of  the  aboriginal  populations  now  merged 
with  the  invaders.  The  various  Tu-Shilange  tribes,  however,  differ  greatly  in 
appearance,  customs,  and  political  condition  among  themselves.  Some  are  still  in 
the  savage  state,  while  others  have  already  acquired  a  certain  degree  of  civilisation. 
The  most  important  part  of  their  territory,  both  as  regards  population  and  trade, 
is  the  district  known  by  the  name  of  Lubuku,  that  is  to  say,  "Friendship,"  and 
here  alo^e  the  whites  have  hitherto  succeeded  in  founding  settlements.  Towards 
the  year  1870  the  inhabitants  of  this  district,  which  was  not  yet  known  by  such  a 
pleasant  name,  refused  to  enter  into  relations  with  the  strangers,  withholding 
from  foreign  traders  the  right  to  penetrate  into  their  territory.  Then  arofie  a 
discussion  on  this  point  between  the  young  and  old,  the  former  being  desirous  of 
changing  the  whole  state  of  affairs,  while  the  latter  insisted  on  maintaining  the 
commercial  barriers.  The  king,  with  his  sister,  sided  with  the  party  of  progress 
and  a  civil  war  broke  out.  The  result  was  that  many  old  men  and  women  were 
massacred,  most  of  the  survivors  taking  refuge  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lu-Lua, 
where  they  still  occupy  separate  villages.     ^ 

The  political  movement  at  the  same  time  involved  a  religious  and  social  revolu- 
tion.  A  new  cult  was  introduced  into  the  country,  which  earned  for  the  inhabi- 
tants the  title  of  BenaRiamba,  or  "  Sons  of  Hemp."  According  to  the  rites  of 
the  new  religion,  all  smokers  of  riamba,  or  "  hemp,"  call  themselves  friends,  and 
even  interdict  the  use  of  arms  in  their  villages.  All  are  bound  to  each  other  by 
the  mutiial  rights  of  hospitality  ;  everyone  dresses  as  he  pleases ;  no  more  prose- 
cutions are  instituted  on  the  ground  of  witchcraft,  and  young  girls  are  no  longer 
sold  by  their  parents.  The  flesh  of  goats  is  henceforth  forbidden,  because  these 
animals  recall  the  time  when  the  young  men  were  obliged  to  offer  them  as  presents 


; 


488 


WEST  AFBICA. 


before  carrying  off  the  bride.  Eeligious  ceremonies  are  now  in  fuct  reduced  to 
the  simple  custom  of  assembling  at  night  to  smoke  hemp  in  common.  It  is  a 
weird  sight  to  behold  uU  these  tattooed  and  naked  people,  after  inhaling  the  fumes 
of  the  "weetl  "  from  a  large  calabash,  coughing  spasmodically,  yelling,  throwing 
themsolves  into  paroxysms  of  frenzy,  uttering  forebodings,  or  else  plungped  into  a 
sta'e  of  stupor  under  the  influence  of  the  narcotic. 

The  riamba,  which  unites  all  in  a  common  brotherhood,  may,  however,  also 
punish  the  guilty.  Nearly  all  the  old  penalties,  and  especially  the  ordeal  by 
poison,  have  been  replaced  by  the  administration  of  hemp,  the  fumes  of  which 
have  to  be  inhaled  by  the  criminal  until  he  falls  senseless  to  the  ground.  But  on 
his  recovery  he  is  marked  with  white  clay  on  breast  and  forehead,  in  order  to  assure 
him  of  pardon  and  admit  him  again  to  the  assembly  of  friends.     To  meet  the 


Fig.  249. — Land  op  Fbibnssuif. 

Scale  1  :  4,000,000.       V     ;   i   .  ,  f 


llttof  Grfnwich 


,  6U  Milei. 


enormous  consumption  extensive  tracts  of  land  round  about  the  Bena-Biamba 
A  illuges  are  set  apart  for  the  cultivation  of  hemp.  But  this  universal  use  of  the 
narcotic  in  their  religious  practices  is  not  free  from  evil  consequences,  diseases 
of  the  chest  as  well  as  insanity  having  become  very  common  since  its  intro- 
duction. 

It  is  deplorable  that  the  Ba-Luba  are  subject  to  this  cause  of  deterioration,  for 
amongst  all  nations  of  Africa  they  are  distinguished  by  their  intelligent  curiosity 
and  their  thoughtful  turn  of  mind.  Wissmann  goes  the  length  of  calling  them 
a  "  nation  of  thinkers."  The  interrogative  "  why  ?  "  which  is  so  rarely  heard  in  its 
serious  sense  amongst  the  African  peoples,  comes  natural  to  their  lips ;  nor  are 
they  to  be  put  off  with  an  evasive  answer.  Their  great  personal  courage,  and 
surprising  skill  in  following  up  the  scent  of  the  quarry,  would  make  them  exceUent 
scouts  in  the  service  of  Europeans.  They  despise  routine,  and  at  their  feasts  are 
always  inventing  something  original  and  unforeseen.    Their  chief  ceremonies  are 


a!m'U^i.j.^  WHt-w 


'ifpiwiw— ;ij.i)i 


ii»Wl'..i>|i».^*til^.»!i»^l»Wi'l 


THE  BA-LUBA. 


480 


•educed  to 
1.  It  is  a 
tbe  fumes 
,  throwing 
ged  into  u 

waver,  also 
ordeal  by 
)8  of  which 
d.  But  on 
er  to  assure 
o  meet  the 


Bena-Eiamba 
sal  use  of  the 
mces,  diseases 
ice   its  intro- 

terioration,  for 
igent  curiosity 
:  calling  them 
?ly  heard  in  its 
p  lips ;  nor  are 
I  courage,  and 
them  excellent 
;heir  feasts  are 
ceremonies  are 


those  associated  with  the  reception  of  caravans,  which  they  welcome  with  shouts 
and  dancing,  drum-beating  and  volleys  of  firearms.  All  are  arrayed  in  their 
best  at<  ■  •t^  while  the  traders  deck  themselves  with  the  choicest  of  their  wares. 
Even  the  members  of  convoys  from  vassal  tribes,  although  subjected  at  first  to  a 
considerable  amount  ot  horse-play  and  rough  usage,  are  in  the  end  indemnified 
by  feasts  and  presents  for  their  disagreeable  reception. 

The  Ba-Luba  have  preserved  the  custom  of  the  "  brotherhood  of  blood,"  which 
survives  also  amongst  numerous  other  African  populations,  as  well  as  amongst  the 
European  Slavs,  but  which  is  unknown  in  the  Jjunda  country.  "When  the  young 
men  have  drunk  of  each  other's  blood  their  property  becomes  almost  common,  for 
they  mutually  help  themselves  to  whatever  takes  their  fancy,  without  a  thought  of 
making  reparation.  This  right  of  "  share  and  share  all  round  "  is  extended  even 
to  the  various  members  of  the  respective  families.  The  sociable  .character  and 
cordial  spirit  of  brotherhood  by  which  the  Ba-Luba  are  animated  is  revealed  even 
in  the  manner  of  parcelling  out  their  lands.  Instead  of  keeping  their  plantatiniiR 
apart  and  working  alone  in  sullen  isolation,  the  peasantry  delight  to  keep  together 
and  till  all  the  fields  in  common,  although  really  disposed  in  distinct  allotments. 

The  Land  of  Friendship  is  divided  into  two  principal  states,  which  are  usually 
designated  after  the  names  of  their  kings — Nukenge,  the  suzerain,  and  Jingenge 
(Tchikenge),  the  vassal.  The  King  of  the  Bena-Riamba  is  the  universal  lord  of 
the  soil,  but  the  plants  growing  on  it  belong  to  the  toiler  who  has  raised  them  by 
his  labour.  A  fourth  part  of  all  game  killed  in  his  empire  belongs  to  him  by 
right,  and  he  also  levies  an  impost  on  all  merchandise  imported  by  caravans. 
Maintaining  commercial  relations  with  all  the  surrounding  chiefs  as  well  as  with 
the  Portuguese  traders,  he  has  also  desired  to  contract  alliances  with  the  sovereigns 
of  Europe.  Through  the  agency  of  Pogge  he  has  forwarded  a  letter  to  the  "  ruler 
beyond  the  waters,  to  the  commander  of  all  the  peoples,"  begging  for  numerous 
presents,  amongst  others  for  a  medicine  "  to  prevent  people  from  dying." 

Soon  after  their  arrival  in  the  Ba  Luba  territory  the  first  explorers  perceived 
that  a  European  station  would  be  well  placed  in  such  a  productive  land  inhabited 
by  the  intelligent  Tu-Sbilange  people.  In  1884  Wismann  founded  the  post  of 
Luluaburg,  at  an  altitude  of  1,760  feet,  some  12  miles  to  the  north  of  Mukenge,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  which  gives  its  name  to  the  station.  Despite  the  difficulty 
of  supplying  it  with  provisions,  this  outpost  of  the  Congo  Free  State  has  hitherto 
been  maintained  and  even  enlarged.  At  the  end  of  the  year  1886  it  was  inhabited 
by  a  missionary  and  another  European,  assisted  by  some  fifty  natives,  troops,  and 
artisans,  and  by  about  thirty  women,  who  looked  after  the  gardens,  the  poultry, 
and  a  small  herd  of  cattle.  It  is  still  uncertain  whether,  in  violation  of  a  treaty 
just  signed,  fixing  the  limits  of  the  Congo  domain  at  the  sixth  parallel  of  south 
latitude,  Luluaburg  has  not  been  founded  to  the  south  of  this  conventional  frontier, 
in  a  zone  not  yet  officially  assigned  to  any  European  power.  The  great  dis- 
advantage of  Luluaburg  is  due  to  its  position  on  a  part  of  the  river  which  offers  no 
continuous  line  of  navigation  between  the  Eassai  and  the  Congo,  for  the  stream  is 
obstructed  by  cataracts  at  several  points  farther  down  as  far  as  the  confluence  of 

98— AF 


5sm",»P53^?^^?^3f«^ 


.a«*ii>«5^v,: 


490 


WEST  AFRICA. 


the  Lu-Ebo.  At  this  confluence,  about  120  miles  from  liuluuburg,  following  the 
windings  of  the  Htroam,  has  been  founded  the  fortified  station  which  is  regularly 
visited  by  the  steamers  of  the  Congo  State.  Hut  from  a  third  to  half  a  mile  higher 
up  on  both  rivers  the  navigation  is  completely  interrupted  by  falls  and  rapids. 

This  region  of  the  confluence  belongs  to  the  lia-Kuba  nation,  which  differs 
ultogothor  in  language  and  customb  from  the  Ba-Lubu,  and  which  was  lately  said 


Pig.  2fiO.— Inhahitants  of  the  Kassai  Basin. 
Scale  1 :  e,fiOO,000. 


Ojr0-d      MXMO 


Lj^t  oFGr««nwfch      l8" 


'A  /''JCikbcuniou   ^  '   ;' 


ISOMflei. 


to  be  ruled  by  a  potent  wizard,  who  condemned  all  foreigners  to  death.  Neverthe- 
less the  traveller  Wolf  at  last  succeeded  in  penetrating  into  this  region  in  1885. 
The  Ba-Kuba,  who  are  a  very  numerous  people,  dwell  north  of  the  Lu-Lua  in  the 
clearings  of  the  forests  which  stretch  away  to  the  Sankuru.  They  hold  no  inter- 
course with  the  Ba-Luba  except  through  the  agency  of  their  vassals,  the  Ba-Kete, 
who  occupy  the  banks  of  the  Lu-Lua.     According  to  their  traditions  they  come 


THE  KIOKOS, 


401 


)1  lowing  the 
in  regularly 
I  mile  higher 
1(1  rapids, 
vhich  differs 
18  lately  said 


►  '    V. 


U-J 


Bath.  Neverthe- 
region  in  1885. 
le  Lu-Lua  in  the 
ly  hold  no  inter- 
als,  the  Ba-Kete, 
iitions  they  come 


from  the  iiorth-weHt,  whereas  the  Ua-Lubu  claim  to  have  arrived  from  the  regions 
situated  towards  the  Houth-ouHt.  — 

Scattered  in  isolated  groups  in  the  midst  of  the  forests  are  niimeroun  Ba-Twa 
commuuities,  who,  however,  maintain  excellent  relations  with  their  lia-Kuba 
neighbours.  The  Ha-Twa  ulMirigines  of  both  sexes  measured  by  Wolf  ranged  in 
stature  from  4  feet  4  inches  to  4  feet  9  inches  in  height.  Hut  notwithstanding  their 
diminutive  stature,  they  were  all  symmetrically  built  with  good  projmrtions,  a 
yellowish-brown  comjdoxion,  and,  like  the  Akkas  of  Monbuttu  Lund,  noted  for  their 
marvellous  agility.  These  13a-Twa  tribes  are  ignorant  of  agriculture,  living  entirely 
on  the  produce  of  the  chase.  In  exchange  for  a  portion  of  the  game  they  obtain 
from  their  neighbours  the  manioc,  arms — such  as  arrows,  swords,  and  knives — and 
all  other  articles  of  which  they  stand  in  need. 

The  Upper  Kassai  basin  has  not  yet  taken  in  the  history  of  Central  Africa  the 
position  to  which  it  seems  entitled,  nnd  wbifh  it  onnnot  fail  some  day  to  acquire 
The  waterparting  running  parallel  with  its  upper  valley,  between  its  afHuents  and 
those  of  the  Zambese,  is  already  marked  out  as  the  chief  highway  leading 
from  the  Atlantic  province  of  Benguella  to  the  region  of  the  great  lakes  in  the 
Upper  Congo  Valley.  This  route  has  already  been  followed  by  numerous  Portu- 
guese caravans,  as  well  as  by  liivingstone,  Cameron,  Capello,  and  Ivens  in  their 
journeys  across  the  continent,  and  all  alike  speak  of  the  fertility  of  the  land  and 
the  peaceful  disposition  of  its  inhabitants. 

In  the  south-western  region  watered  by  the  numerous  streams  flowing  to  the 
Kassai  the  dominant  people  are  the  enterprising  Kiokos,  or  better  Tchibokos,  who 
seem  destined  sooner  or  later  to  take  a  leading  part  amongst  all  the  tribes  dwelling 
south  of  the  Congo.  At  the  time  of  Livingstone's  journey,  the  Eiokos  had  not  yet 
reached  the  Kassai  basin ;  yet  in  many  places  they  are  already  masters,  although 
yielding  a  certain  homage  to  the  Muata  Yamvo.  The  unanimous  testimony  of  their 
neighbours  indicates  the  southern  region  as  the  land  of  their  origin,  and  for  at  least 
three  centuries  and  a  half  before  the  recent  migrations,  they  appear  to  haA  e  occupied 
the  upland  tracts  lying  about  the  sources  of  the  Cuanza  and  of  the  Cuando,  one  of 
the  great  afHuents  of  the  Zambese.  Here  they  dwelt  by  the  side  of  the  Gang, 
uellas,  whom  they  greatly  resemble  in  speech  and  customs,  while  also  betraying 
certain  affinities  with  the  Lundas,  whom,  however,  they  certainly  surpass  in  enter- 
prise and  intelligence.  The  Kiokos  are  great  hunters,  but  rely  chiefly  on  industrial 
pursuits  for  their  support,  being  specially  noted  as  skilled  forgers  and  manufac- 
turers of  arms  and  wickerwork  articles. 

The  chief  market  in  the  region  lying  between  the  Kioko  and  Lunda  territories 
is  Kimbundu,  which  stands  at  an  altitude  of  4,100  feet  above  the  sea  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Lu-Vo,  which  flows  through  the  Lua-Nge  to  the  Kassai.  But  since 
1876,  when  Kimbundu  had  a  few  European  structures  belonging  to  a  Portuguese 
merchant,  the  centre  of  traffic  has  been  displaced  more  in  the  direction  of  the 
Kassai,  where  several  villages,  occupied  by  local  chiefs,  have  populations  larger 
than  that  of  Kimbundu. 

North  of  the  Ba-Kuba  territory  the  Kassai  and  the  Lua-Nge  traverse  the  lands 


}<BJiWj|ifti»TgiWiiB>'?iii*«iiiiiifi 


ii>>lWwl»n»i 


iiiiii  ii.ni.yn 


402 


WEHT  AFRICA. 


W- 


of  the  reiidi's,  na-Konjfo«,  and  ofhor  Buntii  pooplos,  of  whom  little  i«  known 
iHiyoiul  th<'ir  tribul  uuiiion.  lii'yond  the  Sunkuru  dwell  the  Bu-Honffo  Miiio,  itr 
"  Son^iiH  of  the  Tunth,"  ho  niimod  Ixu'uufle  they  file  to  u  {mint  uU  the  iuciHorn. 
Although  inueh  droudod  ua  eunnilmlH  they  deny  the  charge,  which  wus  certainly 
uncontirnied  bj'  anything  Keen  by  Wolf  when  he  visited  them  in  IHHti.  Lower 
down,  about  the  Sankuru-KaHHui  confluence,  live  the  unfriendly  Bu-Kutu  people, 
and  HtiU  further  north,  between  the  Kassai  and  the  liU-Konyo  (Ikattu),  follow  the 
Bu-Seuge,  occupying  ntraggling  villugeH  miles  in  extent  and  often  containing 
several  thousand  inhubitantH.  The  Ba-Sengo,  who  are  not  to  be  confounded 
with  the  Ba-Soujje  uud  Bu'Sange  uatious,  are  noted  for  their  relatively  long  legs 

Fig.  2dt.— Co.'«ri.uBNOB  or  trr  Cambu  and  Kwanoo. 

i:auo,ooo.  ^  ,     ' 


.SMilM. 


and  short  trunk,  while  many  have  perfectly  European  features  of  the  intellectual 
type.  Oa-koko,  their  capital,  so  named  from  the  local  chief,  is  a  very  large  place 
built,  like  all  the  other  towns,  in  a  clearing  of  the  primeval  forest. 


•\    ■  V  The  Kwanoo  Basin. 

Although  belonging  to  the  Kassai  system,  the  Kwango  traverses  a  region 
which  has  had  a  very  different  historic  evolution  from  that  of  Lunda  Land.  It  is 
the  true  Zaire,  which  was  known  to  the  Portuguese  since  the  sixteenth  century,  and 
whose  name  is  still  attributed  to  the  Lower  Congo.     Many  parts  of  its  valley  have 


hars'j^aw 


THE  KWANOO  BA8IN. 


408 


0  is  known 
if^)  Mino,  or 
the  iuciHorn. 
van  ccrtuinly 
HH().      liowor 
Kutu  people, 
),  follow  the 
\  contuiiiiug 
coufoundofi 
ely  long  legs 


'^r : 


the  intellectual 
irery  large  place 


verses  a  region 
ida  Land.  It  is 
nth  century,  and 
)f  its  valley  have 


boon  rogiiliirly  visited  by  Portuguese  trndors  for  the  last  three  luindrtMl  years,  uiid 
its  markets  luivo  served  us  the  internuMliurioH  of  truffic  between  the  west  coast  uud 
the  uncivilised  inltind  populations. 

In  the  Upper  Kwungo  V^iUoy  the  dominant  people  are  still  the  Kiokos  of  the 
Upper  KusHui.  Further  north  follow  tho  Minungos  on  both  bunks,  suvuge 
muruudors  broken  into  nunn'roun  tribul  groups  without  uny  political  coherence. 
Under  the  influence  of  the  Portuguest)  (  utholics,  to  the  nutituiul  fetishes  they  have 
added  wooden  and  copper  crosses,  und  eveu  ('."icitixes  obtained  from  tho  white 
traders.  Holow  the  Minuu^o  territory  fbo  western  slope  of  the  Kwungo  Vulley 
is  occupied  by  the  Ha-Ngulu,  ugi  ulturists  and  truders,  who  huve  long  maintained 
direct  relations  with  the  Portuguese,  from  whom  thoy  have  learnt  to  build  large 
well  ventilated  houses  with  gables  uud  high  pitched  roofs,     oluves  are  no  longer 

Fig.  2fi2.— RiaioEifOB  or  the  Muknb  Puro  Kamm>mck>. 

8m1«  1  :  itaO,0uO. 


East  of  G<>««nwich 


.  SMilM. 


slaughtered  at  the  graves  of  the  great  chiefs,  but  the  succession  is  still  in  the 
female  line,  to  the  eldest  fton  of  the  eldest  sister.  The  yaga  or  kassanj^,  that  is, 
tho  supreme  soba,  or  chief  of  tho  Ba-Ngala  nation,  is  elected  by  four  dignitaries, 
whose  choice  is  limited  to  the  members  of  three  families.  According  to  the 
Portupfueso  traders,  these  electors  mix  a  subtle  poison  with  the  cup  presented  to 
the  new  king,  who  is  thus  brought  to  the  grave  within  a  period  of  three  years. 
The  reigning  sovereign,  however,  has  dispensed  with  this  inconvenient  ceremony, 
preferring  to  be  master  ffe  facto  if  not  de  Jure.  The  Ba-Ngala  capital  takes  the 
name  of  Kcuaanji  from  the  king,  although  better  known  to  the  Portuguese  by  the 
name  of  Fdra,  or  "  the  Fair."  Here  are  effected  the  changes  between  the  coast 
traders  and  the  Eioko  and  Lunda  merchants  from  the  interior.  Till  1860  the 
Portuguese  commanded  at  Eassanj^ ;  but  in  that  year  a  revolution  broke  out,  the 
warehouses  were  plundered,  the  orange  groves  out  down,  and  of  twenty-one  traders 


,  ")' 


1 


iiiiiiliif^ 


liiiiiiittt 


MMM 


mmmm 


'rift'r.^^VV 'j'litVi.ifc'i'i.iiiy.'.., 


494 


WEST  AFRICA. 


only  seven  escaped  with    their    lives.      Since    then,  however,    the    Portuguese 
suzerainty  has  been  again  accepted.      .  , 

At  the  Kwango-Kussai  confluence  the  ruling  race  are  the  Ba  Teke,  although 
numerous  villages  are  also  occupied  by  the  Wa-Buma,  who  are  the  same  people  as 
the  A-Boma  of  the  French  Congo.  These  traders  and  boatmen  come  down  from 
the  Kassai  to  Stanley  Pool,  where  they  transfer  their  commodities  to  the  porters 
by  whom  the  exchanges  are  effected  with  the  Lower  Congo.     The  Wa-Buma  are 


Fig.  253. — Density  of  the  Population  in  thb  Conqo  Babix. 

Scale  1:  28,000,000. 


.-"^V 


Densely  Paopled.  Peopled.  Thinly  Peopled.  Unexplored  or  Waite.- 

800  Miles. 


an  intelligent,  industrious,  and  cheerful  people,  whose  supreme  chief  is  a  queen 
residing  at  Moshi,  a  place  of  about  three  thousand  inhabitants,  ciowning  a  high 
cliff  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kwa,  On  the  bluff  rising  above  the  south  side  of 
the  Kassai-Congo  confluence  stands  the  station  bearing  the  English  name  of 
Kwnmouth,  given  to  it  before  the  Kwa  was  known  to  constitute  the  lower  course 
of  the  vast  Kassai-Sankuru-Kwango  fluvial  system. 

The  stations  of  Ngombe,  Lukokla,  and  Bolobo,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Congo 
above  Kwamouth,  although  abandoned  by  the  Congo  Government,  are  still  much.* 


*TIM|  ^ 


iKMWtiiiMJBirjj.'n.jwiinaww 


THE  LOWER  CONGO. 


495 


Portuguese 

ke,  although 
ime  people  as 
ne  down  from 
to  the  porters 
Wa-Bunaa  are    , 


-     ■  ■ 

.0" 

w 

iU" 


'2 

id  or  Wncte.' 


chief  is  a  queen 
Clowning  a  high 
;he  south  side  of 
English  name  of 
the  lower  course 

ik  of  the  Congo 
b,  are  still  much- 


frequented  trading  places.  Bolobo,  with  its  suburb  of  Moye,  is  a  large  town  of 
from  five  thousand  to  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  succeeded  30  miles  higher 
up  by  Tchumbiri,  also  a  populous  place.  Here  the  dominant  riverain  people  are 
the  Ba-Yanzi  (Ba-Nyanzi),  akin  to  the  Bu-Banghi  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Congo.  Although  a  treacherous,  insolent  race,  addicted  to  orgies  and  human 
sacrifices,  they  show  great  ingenuity  and  artistic  taste  in  the  decoration  of  their 

.  ;>r"  •■  ■ 

Fig.  264.— Afbicak  Explorations  sisce  1876. 

V    ,v '  ■'_  S,  „    s  -;      Soale  1:28.000,000. 


^-m 


r'^/At>'^/^j^'yr/Ttrr^?rF7r 


Zone  explored  before  1875. 


Lands  explored  nnoe  1S7S. 
I  eOO  Miles. 


instruments,  earthenware,  and  dwellings.    Topaz  mines  are  said  to  occur  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Bolobo. 

The  Lower  Congo. 

Hitherto  the  commercial  and  political  energies  of  the  Congo  Free  State  have 
been  mainly  concentrated  at  two  points,  Stanley  Fool  above  the  cataracts,  and  the 


jtmfasmmS^^ 


'i.j.i'w^iJwm'jiBf 


'.i-<fliyt'i''i '  ".'i-i '■ '.  i"-?^i-.! 


IT 


496 


WEST  AFEIOA. 


lower  reaches  between  the  Yellala  Falls  and  the  mouth  of  the  estuary.  The  terri- 
tory is  doubtless  of  vast  extent,  with  a  population  equal  to  that  of  many  powerful 
European  states ;  but  the  whites  have  scarcely  yet  secured  a  firm  footing  in  the 
lond.  Ji     . 

At  the  close  of  the  year  1886  the  Europeans  numbered  altogether  only 
two  hundred  and  fifty-four,  and  on  this  handful  of  pioneers,  scattered  over  an 
immense  space  and  enfeebled  or  even  decimated  at  times  by  the  murderous  climate, 


Fig.  255. — Stanley  Pool 
Scale  1 :  86&,000. 


C  tWtflflJ^P^wwicf* 


devolves  all  the  work  of  geographical  and  commercial  exploration,  the  foundation, 
maintenance,  and  defence  of  the  military  stations,  the  organisation  of  the  transport 
service  by  land  and  water,  the  equipment  of  troops,  the  pacification  and  government 
of  the  natives.  The  preliminary  work  of  general  survey  has  been  successfully 
accomplished  for  the  greater  part  of  the  navigable  waters,  and  the  splendid  results 
obtained  in  the  domain  of  geographical  research  since  1875  may  well  cause  surprise. 
But  all  the  other  work  of  the  general  administration  has  necessarily  hitherto  been 


n^ttmmmmm 


MiffasTiir—— -~-  - 


'-■>"WI!M< 


ifllt 


The  terri- 
my  powerful 
oting  in  the 

agether  only 
Bred  over  an 
3rous  climate, 


IS'ao- 


the  foundation, 
Df  the  transport 
ind  government 
>en  successfully 
splendid  reralts 
I  cause  surprise, 
iy  hitherto  been 


;«Si*SI»^^- 


THE     LOWER     ( 


0  t»Stff 


Depth* 

a  m 

szt»a3o.         stotoszoc. 

NEW  VOHK.  D   APPLE 


».;  -  1 


■■-..^'^X 


tmuuttM-'namMfuM'i 


THI.  LOWEE  CONGO. 


407 


mainly  restricted  to  the  Lower  Congo  basin.  In  this  region,  however,  the  work 
is  carried  on  simultaneously  by  three  European  powers :  the  Congo  Free  State, 
which  claims  only  the  left  bank  above  Manyanga,  and  the  right  bank  as  fur  us 
Noki ;  France,  which  is  mistress  of  all  the  rest  of  the  north  side ;  and  I^ortugal, 
which  rules  over  the  south  side  from  Noki  to  the  coast. 

The  shores  of  Stanley  Pool,  like  the  riverain  tracts  higher  up,  are  inhabited  by 
Ba-Teke  tribes,  which  are  here  subjected  to  tbe  direct  control  of  the  whites. 
Nowhere  else  in  the  whole  Congo  basin  have  more  rapid  changes  been  effected 
than  at  this  point,  where  converge  above  the  cataracts  all  tbe  navigable  waterways 
as  far  as  the  neighbourhood  of  Tanganyika.  The  chief  station  in  this  district  is 
Leopoldvifle,  built  on  a   \teau  commanding  the  western  extremity  of  the  Fool,  and 

Fig.  286.— Ou)  AND  Nrw  Vm. 
Soale  1 ;  86,000. 


15*4I- 


15*48 


East  of     Gfeenwich 


S,200  Tatdi. 


not  far  from  Ntamo,  capital  of  the  southern  Ba-Teke.  Near  the  station  stand  the 
barracks  of  the  Haussa  and  Ba-Ngala  troops,  and  the  dwellings  of  the  English 
and  American  missionaries.  But  the  industrial  and  commercial  activity  is  centred 
chiefly  at  the  village  of  Kinkawa,  which  serves  as  the  port  and  dockyard  of 
Leopoldville.  Another  station,  at  once  religious  and  agricultural,  has  been 
founded  at  UTimpopo,  on  a  torrent  flowing  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  Stanley  Pool. 
The  plain  stretching  south  of  the  lake  to  the  encircling  hills  is  thickly  peopled, 
containing  several  large  towns,  such  as  Kimbanga,  Lemba,  and  Mikmiga.  Like 
the  Dover  Cliffs  on  the  opposite  side,  these  hills,  which  culminate  southwards  in 
the  Mense  Peak  (2,000  feet),  consist  of  a  hardened  sand  of  dazzling  whiteness 
terminatiug  in  numerous  sharp  points. 


umnmn*mmii.titv 


408 


WEST  AFRICA. 


Below  Sfunley  Pool  the  chief  stations  on  the  portage  skirting  the  fulls  lie 
abqut  midway  between  Leopoldville  and  Matadi,  where  the  river  presents  a  less 
rapid  incline.  Here  is  the  English  missionary  station  of  Lutefc  on  the  left  side, 
followed  by  the  two  villages  of  Mamjiiuya,  on  both  banks,  and  farther  on  Lukimgu 
and  Vooiida  (Doi/nesriife),  both  on  the  south  side.  In  the  fertile  and  populous 
Kwilu  Valley,  which  debouches  higher  up,  are  situated  the  towns  of  Banza  Makiita, 
the  chief  market  between  Stanley  I'ool  and  Ambri/.,  and  Tiingwa,  a  great  centre  of 
the  ivory  trade. 

JJetween  Munyanga  and  Boma  on  the  north  side  the  dominant  people  are  the 
energetic  and  haughty  Ba-Sundi,  who  hold  themselves  as  the  equals  of  the  whites, 
with  whose  forces  they  have  frequently  been  in  collision.     Their  chief  pursuits 

Fig.  267.-B01U.  "  '      ' 

Scale  1 :  a6,00a 


5* 


LasL  OT  Greenwich 


i5*io- 


IS'ii  • 


VejtOm. 


Bands  ezpnwd  at 
low  water. 


0tol6 
Feet. 


i6to!a 

Feet 


tatnM 
Feet. 


r4  Fret  and 
npwaida. 


1,100  Tarda. 


are  war  and  fishing,  leaving  to  the  women  all  other  occupations,  such  as  trade, 
weaving,  wickerwork,  pottery,  and  other  industries.  Near  the  Manyanga  in  this 
district  lies  the  chief  trading-place  between  Stanley  Pool  and  the  coast.  Below 
Manyanga,  whose  well-attended  fair  is  held  every  eight  days,  the  fortified  station 
of  Isangifa  marks  the  point  where  the  river  plunges  fi  om  a  vertical  height  of  about 
16  feet,  and  then  describes  a  great  bend  southwards  to  the  point  where  the  Lu-Fu 
Biver  leads  to  San-Snkador,  former  metropolis  of  the  Conga  empire. 

After  being  twice  displaced  as  the  capital  of  the  Congo  Free  State,  the  station 
of  Vivi  (M'  Vivi)  has  been  finally  abandoned,  and  the  seek  of  Government  removed 
farther  down  to  Boma,  on  the  same  side  of  the  rive?.  Both  the  old  and  new 
stations  of  Vivi,  standing  on  plateaux  commanding  the  right  bank  of  the  river  a 
little  below  the  last  cataracts,  were  foimd  to  suffer  ftom  the  same  inconvenience 


nmii'i  f.ij,-! 


WW'^^iJJ.Ml'l.      - 


-   '^■rWU'i-W^.-j.V.-^.'i,  ,.','g.sg — y.w,|ii.' 


1111111 


le  fulls  lie 
sents  a  less 
le  left  side, 
m  Luknugu 
d  populous 
iza  Makutn, 
at  centre  of 

)ple  are  the 
the  whites, 
lef  pursuits 


'ret  nnd 


mch  as  trade, 
;ranga  in  this 
mst.  Below 
rtified  station 
ight  of  about 
re  the  Lu-Fu 

:e,  the  station 
aent  removed 
old  and  new 
[)f  the  river  a 
[nconvenience 


n 

9 


I 


\ 


g 
g 


I 


n 


.     Li., 


i 


■•WPfWWI"«l!^F"*P''fP^ 


iW%.)1W  wniMiii'uyi  M»M^^wiw'»«W^PW^ 


'*■/  ♦'-,    .  . 


^ 


^;•,»^;^::t%^'■-  4- 


::i;.-'»^"- 


/- 


t 


r- 


»  s 


■^miim 


wmmti 


''«'i«aRr>8iiH**p«iHMi 


TlIK  LOWER  CONGO. 


409 


of  standing  ut  too  grout  an  elovution  ulmvo  tho  Htroum,   witfcoi        lo  fcopwl-for 
udvantagf  of  11  sulubrious  rlinmte.      Owing  to  tho  velrndty  of  the  <    rren<    ii  llii" 
point,  nuwt  of  tho  vosscIh  plying  on  the  river  aro  also  obliged  to  nfttp        ttl(>  f»rth. 
down  at  MnUuH,  or  the  "  Rock,"  on  the  opposite  side.     Below  M«l*    i  follow  tl  > 


Fig.  268,— Port  of  Banaka. 
Sonle  I  :  6A,0aO. 


— *:^.'      -.       ••,tfa^*      ,•    j^  V- — ^ 


Ig'Bl'M- 


l6'»8-30  Eaab  of     Greenwich 


Otolfl 

VMt 


Deptbi. 


letoSS 
Fe«t 


SStoM 

FMlt. 

1,100  Yards. 


64  Feet  and 
upwards. 


little  riverain  ports  of  Ftika-Fuka,  NkaUi-Nkala,  giving  access  to  the  missionary 
station  of  Underhill  (Tunduwa),  Wtwgo-  Wango,  and  Noki,  a  Portuguese  village 
facing  Nkongolo  on  the  north  side. 

Boma  {M'Boma,  Emhoma),  city  of  the  "Great  Snake,"  or  of  "Terror,"  and 
formerly  the  chief  market  for  slaves  in  the  whole  Congo  region,  is  a  double  town. 


ii«>imi<'iiii.;iii(jiifiiniMiHi» 


600 


WF>1T  AFHIOA. 


with  a  "  Murine  "  and  novcral  Eurojiean  fuctorien  tit  the  woter's  edge  connected  by 
a  HHid  and  u  riitlwuy  of  light  connt ruction  with  the  uppar  quarter  standing  about 
300  feet  alwve  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  Nine  local  chiefs,  still  b<>uring  the 
title  of  "  kingH,"  clfiini  potwcHHion  of  the  Donm  dintrict,  and  present  thoniHolTCS 
every  month  at  the  factories  to  receive  the  "  customs,"  or  ground-rent.  Sugar 
pliintatiouH  line  the  beach,  and  the  neighbouring  islets  contain  several  villages 
surrounded  by  fields  and  palm-groves.  In  one  of  these  islands  are  the  graves  of 
the  kings  of  Homa  and  those  of  Tuokey'a  comimnions  who  perished  in  the 
disaMrous  oxpodition  of  1816.  ^ 

Doma  already  communicates  by  a  regular  service  of  five  linos  of  steamers  ;vith 
Lisbon,  liiverpool,  Hull,  Rotterdam,  and  Hamburg,  while  smaller  boats  ply  on  the 
estuary  between  Hunana  at  the  mouth  of  the  Congo  and  Matadi,  just  below  the  last 
rupida.  Above  the  Falls  the  river  is  navigated  by  other  steamers  transported 
thither  piece  by  piece;  but  ahmg  the  portage  of  170  miles  between  Matadi  and 
Stanley  Pool  goods  are  forwarded  by  carriers  at  a  charge  of  about  £40  per  ton. 
As  no  less  than  eighteen  days  are  taken  to  traverse  this  small  break  in  the 
navigation,  it  has  become  urgently  necessary  to  connect  the  lower  and  middle 
sections  of  the  Congo  by  rail.  The  best  route  for  the  projected  railway  runs  from 
Boma  nearly  in  a  straight  line  to  Brazzaville  on  the  French  side  of  Stanley  Pool. 
But  in  order  to  keep  the  route  entirely  within  its  own  territory  the  Congo  Free 
State  favours  the  lino  from  Matadi  along  the  left  bank  to  Kinshassa  above  th'> 
Falls.  The  difficulties  to  overcome  either  way  are  very  formidable ;  yet  if  the 
project  is  not  cjrri  d  out,  the  whole  Congo  State,  notwithstanding  its  vast  extent 
and  boundless  resources,  "  will  not  be  worth  a  two-shilling  piece  "  (Stanley). 

Below  Boma  the  chief  station  is  Ponta  da  Leiihn,  on  an  islet  close  to  the  right 
bank  of  the  estuary,  beyond  which  the  only  other  European  settlement  is  Banana, 
occupying  on  the  same  side  the  terminal  peninsula  between  the  sea  and  the  mouth 
of  the  Congo.  Here  are  situated  the  Dutch  factories,  the  most  important  in  the 
whole  Congo  basin,  followed  higher  up  by  severol  English,  French,  and  Portu- 
guese establishments,  those  of  the  Congo  State  lying  about  the  middle  of  the  penin- 
sula. Although  protected  from  erosion  by  piles,  the  site  of  Banana  is  continually 
threatened  by  the  stormy  waters,  which  in  1872  converted  the  peninsula  into 
a  temporary  island.  Neirly  all  the  foreign  trade  of  the  Congo  State  is  centred  in 
the  port  of  Banana,  whose  exchanges  are  already  estimated  at  £1,600,000,  of 
which  £600,000  represent  the  expo,  ts,  chiefly  caoutchouc,  ivory,  palm-oil,  and 
nuts.  The  great  staple  of  the  import  trade  is  spirits,  not  always  of  genuine 
quality,  and  equalling  in  value  all  the  other  imports  together. 

Since  the  opening  of  the  Congo  by  Stanley,  the  trade  of  the  estuary  has  been 
increased  fourfold.  Yet  all  attempts  hitherto  i;?ade  to  introduce  an  European 
currency  have  failed,  except  at  Banana  and  Boma.  The  natives  obstinately  refuse 
to  take  silver,  accepting  nothing  but  goods  or  orders  {mukanda)  which  ensure  their 
future  delivery. 

On  the  strip  of  seaboard  left  to  the  Congo  State  north  of  Banana  are  some 
floiirishing  plantations,  such  as  those  of  Monnda  and  Vinta,  the  latter  noted  for 


nnocteu  by 
ilin^  about 
MuiriuK  the 
tljomsolvce 
■lit.  Sugar 
ml  villugoH 
10  gruves  of 
ihod  in  the 

pumers  with 

8  ply  on  the 

low  the  last 

transported 

Mutadi  and 

£40  per  ton, 

rouk  in  the 

und  middle 

ly  runs  from 

Itanley  Pool. 

Congo  Free 

la  above  tli'' 

yet  if  the 

i  vast  extent 

tanley). 

I  to  the  right 

nt  is  Banana, 

id  the  mouth 

>rtant  in  the 

,  and  Portu- 

of  the  penin- 

i  continually 

minsula  into 

is  centred  in 

1,600,000,  of 

palm-oil,  and 

3  of  genuine 

lary  has  been 

an  European 

nately  refuse 

ensure  their 

ina  are  some 
er  noted  for 


r 


•V  •    I 


4-:- 


WlMaMUItililill 


ADMINISTBATION  OF  THE  CONGO  FREE  STATE. 


501 


its  mangoes,  of  whiuh  it  exports  nearly  thirty  tons  yearly.  The  inland  districts 
of  Kakondo  and  Ngoyo  aie  little  known,  Schwerin  being  the  only  traveller  who 
has  visited  this  region  in  recent  times.  Yet  it  is  a  highly  productive  country, 
dotted  over  with  foveral  large  villages,  or  rather  towns,  such  as  Tchim  Biranda, 
culled  the  "Timbuktu"  of  Ngoyo ;  Kakonijo-Songo,  residence  of  a  "king ;"  N'Lel/e, 
noted  for  its  earthenware,  and  Tchoa,  surrounded  by  boundless  fields  of  haricots. 

The  Congo  Government  was  till  lately  known  to  the  natives  by  the  name  of 
Bula  Matadi,  or  "  Rock -breaker,"  the  term  applied  originally  by  them  to  Stanley 
for  the  indomitable  energy  with  which  he  cleared  away  all  obstacles  along  his 
route  down  the  Congo.  The  expression  was  afterwards  transferred  to  Stanley's 
successors,  the  officials  of  the  Free  State,  and  lastly  to  the  whole  kingdom  itself. 

Fig  259. — Kakonqo  Typb. 


Although  the  King  of  the  Belgians  has  been  elected  its  sovereign,  it  has  no  special 
or  exclusive  relation  to  Belgium,  the  union  between  the  two  crowns  being  purely 
personal.  Nevertheless,  after  having  been  almost  English  under  the  direction  of 
Stanley,  it  is  gradually  becoming  a  Belgian  dependency.  The  three  general  admin- 
istrators of  the  finances,  the  inteiior,  and  foreign  affairs,  are  natives  of  Belgium,  as 
are  also  most  of  the  other  civil  and  military  officials.  The  companies  founded  to 
open  up  the  resources  of  the  land  have  their  headquarters  in  Brussels  ;  its  financial 
affairs  are  discussed  in  the  Belgian  Parliament,  and  in  the  convention  with  France 
its  annexation  to  Belgium  is  expressly  anticipated     Ev^n  the  Roman  Catholic 


-*»^ 


t 


t 
f    I 


502 


WEST  AFRICA. 


missions,  hitherto  directed  by  French  priests,  are  now  placed  under  the  jurisdiction 
of  the  Mechlin  diocesan  authorities. 

The  chief  local  official,  avIio  takes  the  title  of  governor-general,  is  assisted  by 
a  consulting  committee  comprising  an  inspector,  a  secretary,  a  judge  of  appeal, 
and  one  or  more  directors  namerl  by  the  central  Government.  The  flag  of  the 
new  state  is  a  gold  star  on  a  blue  ground — the  same  as  that  of  the  old  native 
Congo  State — and  the  official  language  is  French.  The  territory  is  divided  into 
districts  managed  by  speci  tl  commissioners,  who  dispose  of  a  small  force  of  about 
two  thousand  Haussis  and  Ba-Ngalas,  with  twelve  guns  and  two  mitrailleuses. 
These  troops,  as  well  as  the  ten  gunboats  forming  the  flotilla,  are  officered  by 
Belgians.  In  virtue  of  treaties  concluded  with  the  natives,  the  Congo  State 
already  possesses  vast  landed  estates,  which,  however,  yield  no  revenue,  so  that 
the  expenditure  is  almost  exclusively  met  by  yearly  advances  made  by  the 
sovereign.  The  state  revenue  is  limited  to  the  proceeds  of  registration,  the  post 
office  and  the  slight  dues  leviea  on  exports,  all  imports  being  declared  free  by 
various  international  conventions.  One  of  the  chief  prospective  resources  of  the 
state  are  the  elephants,  estimated  by  Stanley  at  about  two  hundred  thousand, 
each  yielding  on  an  average  sixty  pounds  of  ivory,  and  collectively  representing  a 
cipital  of  £5,000,000.  But  these  are  secondary  considerations  compared  with  the 
great  fact  of  half  a  continent  and  a  whole  family  of  mankind  brought  for  the 
iirHt  time  into  ddect  contact  with  the  outer  world. 


^i^i 


I 


fmmmmmimmm 


3  jurisdiction 

18  assistod  by 
je  of  appeal, 
e  flag  of  the 
le  old  native 
divided  into 
)rce  of  about 
nitrailleuses. 
officered  by 
Congo  State 
}nue,  BO  that 
lade  by  the 
ion,  the  post 
lared  free  by 
aurces  of  the 
ed  thousand, 
^presenting  a 
red  with  the 
lught  for  the 


STATISTICAL   TABLES. 


THE  AZORES. 

Area,  935  sqnare  miles ;  population  (1381),  270,000.    Trade  of  Ponta-Delgada  (1883),  £14D,030. 
Sjippiug,  1GG,0J0  tons.     Shipping  of  Horta  (1882),  142,000  tomi. 

DUtriota.  Island*.  PopuUtion  (18U1). 

„    ,    ^  ,      ,  ■(  Sta.  Maria 6,000 

Poata-Delgada       .         .      |  San-Miguel 125,670 

rrerceira 44,340 

Angra    ....        Graciosa \f<f» 

I  San-Jorge \^M<> 

Fayal '-^^.^OO 

PiJo 29,000 

Horta    ....      U^iores 9,000 

ICorvo l.****" 

Chief  towng:  Ponta-Delgada,  population  17,000;  Ribeira-Grande,  11,800  ;  Alagoa,  10,750 ;  Angr.i, 
11,000;  Horta,  7,570. 

MADEIRA. 

Area,  325  square  miles ;  population  (1882),  134,000.    Wine  exported  (1884),  353,000_gaUon8;  value, 
£132,000.    Tradeof  Funohal  (1885),  £420,000;  shipping,  748,000  tons;  population,  19,/ oO. 

THE  CANARIES. 
Area,  2,850  square  miles;  population  (1883),  301,000.    Yield  of  jochineal  (1871),  4,970,000  lbs. 
M.an  annual  value  of  tlie  exchanges,  £3,747,000. 


i 


iHlnnds. 

Fopniation  (1877).              Chief  Towns. 

Population. 

Lancei'ote 

17,600 

Arrecife     . 

2,700 

Fuerteventura 

• 

11,590 

Puerto  de  Cabras 
Las  Palmaa 

520 
17,800 

Gran  Canaria . 

• 

90,000 

Telde 
Arucas 
I  Santa-Craz 

9,200 

8,000 

16,600 

Teneriffe 

105,000 

.      {  Laguna      . 
( Orotava     . 

11,000 

8,200 

Gomera  . 

• 

12,000 

San-Sebastian 
(  Santa-Cruz 
(  Los  Llanos 

1,800 
6,600 

Palma    . 

• 

39,000 

6,000 

Hierro   . 

• 

6,400 

Valverde    . 

6,400 

CAPE  VERD  ISLANDS. 

Area,  1,450  square  mUes 

;  population  (1886) 

,  105,000.     Exports  (1886),  £66.000 

;  imports  £177,000 

Shipping  of  St.  Vincent  (1880), '1,660, 000  tons. 

Shipping  of  Praia  (1880),  140.000  tons. 

Islands. 

Area. 

Popnl'iUoD.                           Chief  Towns. 

Santo-AntSo  . 

255  f 

iquare  miles  . 

20,600  .         .     Ribeira-Grande  (4,500) 

St.  Vincent     . 

80 

4,900  .         .     MindeUo  (4,200) 
.      8,700  .        .    Ribeira-Brava  (4 

S.  Nioolau      . 

160 

000) 

Sal 

90 

1,000  . 

BSa-Vista 

166 

2,600  .        .    Salrey 

Maio 

80 

1,600  . 

S.  Thii^yo 

410 

41,000  .         .     La  Praia  (4,000) 

Fogo 

180 

.     12,200  .         .    S.  FiUppe 

Brava 

20 

.      8,200  .         .     S.  Jao-fi 

atista 

b 

SOUTH  ATLANTIC  ISLANDS. 

Tristam,  area  20,000  acres ;  pop.  (1886),  112.  St.  Helena,  area  47  square  miles;  pop.  (1883),  6,000  ; 
imports  (1885),  £100,000;  exports  £12,000.  Ascension,  area  36  square  miles;  pop.  (1881),  200. 
Annobon,  area  7  square  miles;  iwp.  3,000.  8.  Thome,  area  370  square  miles;  pop.  (1878),  18,000. 
Prince's  Island,  area  60  square  miles  ;  pop.  2,600.     Fernando  Po,  ares  830  square  miles  ;  pop.  30,000  (?). 

SENEGAMBIA. 

Area,  280,000  square  miles;  population,  2,594,000.  Basin  of  the  Senegal,  176,000  square  miles. 
Trade  of  Gor^e  and  St.  Louis  (1883),  £1,900,000.     Shipping  of  Goree  and  St.  Louis  (1883),  260,000  tons. 

Chief  towns  of  French  Senegal ;  St.  Louis.  19,000;  Dagana,  6,000 ;  Rufisque,  4,200 ;  Dakar,  2,000  ; 
Gor6e,  1,960  ;  Bakel,  1,260. 


T-rmmn 


p« 


004 


STATISTICAL  TABLES 


GAMBIA. 

Area  of  the  basin,  20,000  wniaro  miles ;  of  European  possessions,  70  square  miles.  Population  of 
the  British  poDsessions,  14,660.     Imports  (1884),  £200,000  ;  exports  £198,000  ;  shipping  161,000  tons. 

CA8AMANZA. 
Area,  6,000  square  miles  ;  population,  100,000  ;  exports  (1883),  £60,000. 

PORTUGUESE  SEXEGAMBIA. 

Area,  17.000  square  miles ;  population,  160,000.  Chief  towns :  Bolama,  population  3,700  ;  Castreo, 
1,880. 

SOUTH  SEXEGAMBIA. 

Area,  24,000  square  miles;  population,  200,000.    Total  value  of  exchanges  (1883),  £400,000. 

SIERRA-LEONE. 

Area,  28,000  square  miles  ;  population  (1881),  1,000,000. 

Area  of  BritiHlt  territory,  1 ,  160  square  miles ;  population,  60,500,  of  whom  40,000  Protestants,  1 6,000 
Pagans,  and  6,000  Mohammedans.     Schools  (1880),  82  ;  attendance,  8,640.     Exports  (1886),  £300,000. 

LIBERIA. 

Area,  60,000  square  miles;  population,  1,060,000.     Exports  (1883),  £200,000;  imports,  £160,000 
shipping,  260,420  tons.      Chief  towns  :    Monrovia,  3,600 ;  Buchanan,  6,000  ;  Harper,  3,000  ;  Baparo, 
3,000 ;   Ziga  Porah  Zue,  6,000  ;   Fessabuo,  6,000  ;  Bokkasah,  7,000  ;  Musardu,  7,600  ;  BUlelah  Kaifal, 
6,000.     Revenue  (1883),  £38,000  ;  expenditure,  £34,000  ;  debt,  £316,000. 

GOLD  COAST. 

Area  of  British  possessions  ^Gk>ld  Coast),  17,000  square  miles;  population,  408,000.  Exports 
(1882),  £667,000;  imports,  £527,000.  Revenue  (1884),  £126,000 ;  expenditure,  £63,000.  Provinces: 
Amanatua,  Wassaw,  Ahauta,  Elmina,  Assin-Dankira,  Tufol,  Fanti,  Akini,  Accra,  Adangme, 
Akwapem,  Krobo,  Awuna.  Chief  towns:  Axim  (3,600),  Dixcove  (1,000),  Elmina  (3,000),  Shamai 
(3,900),  Cape-Coast  (10,700),  Anamaboe  (4,200),  Accra  (10,000),  Christiansborg  (6,000),  Ada  (3,000), 
Akropong  (3,500),  Aburi  (6,000),  Odumassi  (6,000). 

SLAVE  COAST.  '     ^ 

Area,  60,000  square  miles:  population,  3,135,000. 

German  territory  (Togo)  :  area  600  square  miles;  popidation,  40,000.  Trade  of  Togo  (1884), 
£73,000.     TraJe  of  Little-Popo  (1884),  £146,000.     Trade  of  Great-Popo  (1884),  £84,000. 

French  territory  (Porto-Novo) :  area,  760  square  miles;  population,  160,000.  Trade  of  Porto-Novo 
(1884),  £361,000. 

British  territory  (Lagos):  area,  1,070  square  miles;  population,  87,000.  Trade  of  Lagos  (1884), 
£1,210,000.     Shipping:  681  vessels  of  363,0UU  tons.     Receipts  (1884),  £58,000;  expenditure  £44,700. 

Chief  towns:  Adangbe  (7,00U),  Porto-Novo  (30,000),  Ajuda  (20,000),  Abomey  (10,000),  Lagos 
(65,000),  Badagry  (10,000),  Ibadan  (100,000),  Ogbomosho  (60,000). 

HAUSSA,  NUPE,  YORUBA  AND  BENUE  BASIN. 

Chief  towns :  Eano  (36,000),  Gcrki  (15,000),  Tessawa  (12,000),  Gassawa  (10,000),  Katsena  (7,600), 
Wumo  (15,000),  Bida  (90,000),  Ilorin  (70,000),  Saraki  (40,000j,  Egga  (26,000),  Egobbi  (14,000),  Gurin 
(12,000),  Yola  (12,000),  Yakoba  (60,000),  Duku  (16,000),  Akuni  (10,000),  Keffi  Abd  es-Sega  (30,000^, 
Lokoja  (3,000),  Idda  (10,000),  Witcha  (16,600),  ^bo  (8,000),  Bunny  (5,000),  Creek  Town  or  Old  Calabar 
(6,000). 

TSAD  BASIN. 

Wadai,  area  178,000  square  miles;  pop.  2,600,000  (F).  Kanem,  area  32,000  square  miles;  pip. 
150,000  {?).  Bomu,  area  66,000  square  miles ;  pop.  6,000,000  (F).  Baghinni,  area  60,000  square  miles  ; 
pop.  1,000,000  (?). 

Chief  towns:  Kuka  (60,000),  Ngomu  (20,000),  Gujba  (20,000),  Moshena  (12,000),  Khadeja 
(12,000),  Guinmel  (12,000),  Sinder  (10,000),  Kawa  (10,000),  Doloo  (30,000),  Dikoa  (16,000),  KarnaK- 
Logon  (15,000),  Massefia  (20,000). 

CAMER00N8. 

Area  of  German  territory,  1 1.000  square  miles ;  population,  480,000  (P).  Exports  (1884),  £766,00J ; 
alupping  138,480  tons. 

GABOON  AND  OGOWAY  BASINS. 

Area  of  Spanish  territory,  96,000  square  miles ;  population,  30,000  (P) 

Area  of  French  territory,  260,000  square  miles  ;  population,  2,000,000  (P)  Exports  of  the  Gaboon 
(1884),  £180,000  ;  imports,  £160,000;  shipping,  100,000  tons. 

CONGO  FREE  STATE. 
Area,  1,066,000  square  miles;    population,  27,000,000   (?)  of   whomi  264  whites.    Expenditure, 
£70,000  ;  army,  2,000  natives  ;  ivory  exported  (1879  to  1884),  £600,000. 


M- 


•opulation  of 
,000  tons. 


)0 ;  Castreo, 
10,000. 


•  ■.■^l..»«^>iww'M^^i^«l■^y|^^lil!^^y||||JP^ 


itants,  16,000 
a),  £300,000. 


INDEX 


8,  £160,000 
100;  Bap3ri>, 
lelah  KAifal, 


00.  Exports 
Provinoes : 

1,  Adangme, 
000),  Shamai 
Ada  (3,000), 


Togo  (1884), 

>f  Porto-Novo 

Lag08  (1884), 
ire  £44,700. 
9,000),   Lagos 


itsena  (7,600), 
14,000),  Gurin 
Sega  (30,000), 
jr  Old  Calabur 


re  miles;  pop. 
)  square  miles ; 

100),   Khadeja 
)00),  KarnaK- 


184),  £765,00J; 


of  the  Gaboon 


Expendituie, 


Abanankem,  267 

Abeokuta,  272 

Aberdeen,  210 

AbMhr,  363 

Abetifl,  239,  263 

Abo  River,  373  i 

Aboiso  Falls,  231 

A-Boma,  494 

Abomey,  268 

A-Bongoft,  398 

Abos,  376 

Aburi,  261 

Aba-Sharib,  363 

Accra  (Ga),  247,  260 

Ada,  Adda,  266 

Adafo,  266 

Adafudia,  310 

Adamawa,  329,  33!! 

Adamfi,  241 

Adangb^,  266 

Adansi  Mountains,  240 

Adara,  268 

Addi,  169 

Adele,  247 

Ado,  271 

Adrar,  121 

Ada,  233 

Adumassi,  266 

A«r6,  161 

Afade,  364 

Afatonu,  269 

Afram  River,  263 

Agbom^-Kalari,  269 

Aggera,  269 

Agni,  233 

Agoa-Grande,  110 

Agotim6s,  247 

Aguia  Rooks,  42 

Agula  Falls,  78 

Agvanaa,  395 

Agpuna,  241 

Agwejr,  267 

Ahwansoli,  260 

Aiamats,  181 

Ajamanti  Mooutains,  237 

Aiashey,  269 

Aligo,  267 

Aiuda,  280.  267 

Akabu,  247 

Akaan,  338 

Akba  River,  230 

Akemfo,  260 

96— A» 


Akim  Tribe,  241,  246 
Akkas,  469 
Akpas,  330 
Akra,  241 
Akropong,  261 
Akwamu,  238,  254 
Akwapem,  261 

Mountains,  237 
Ala,  364 
Alaboshi,  336 

Alantika  Mount,  286  ^ 

I    Albani,  247 
Albemarle  Mountains,  327 
Albert,  Peak,  372 
Albreda,  169,  177 
Alcatnus,  186 
Aldea,  72 
AlegnaiM,  66 
Alepe,  231 

Alfaya,  167  " 

Alima  River,  428,  476 
Alima  Station,  477 
Alkalawa,  316 
Allada,  268 
AlU  Vista,  74 
Alto  de  Malpas  Ambas,  380 
Amedioa,  238 
Amina,  247 

Ampuyenta,  68  > 

Aniigti,  72,  75 
Anamabu,  260 
Anoobra  River,  237 
Andoni,  332 
Anenghe  Lake,  389 
Angara  do  Heroismo,  40 
Angra  River,  387 
Angvoi,  263 
Ankobar,  237 
Anlo,  Anglo,  200 
Annobon  Island,  108 
Antigua,  68 
Anum,  253 
Aokwa,  248 
Aowin,  248 
Ap-Furu,  476 
Apollonia,  247 
Appi,  260 

Aquilonda,  Lake,  428 
Arabs,  299,  363,  360,  441 
Aratapala,  76 
Arawhimi  River,  426 
Ardra,  267 


Argnin,  66,  121,  168 

Arguineguin,  72 

Aro,  272 

Arrecife,  67 

Artenara,  72 

Arucas,  71 

Ascension  Island,  17,  106 

Ashang^,  398 

Ashanti,  241 

Ashi-Kuyas,  480 

Ashiras,  398 

Ashuka,  404 

Assaba,  337 

Assiiii,  229,  236 

Atagara,  271 

Atakpameh,  2C6 

Ateobu,  262 

Atijer^,  271 

Atumtio,  2 

Azorian,  4 
Atlantis,  1 
Aulad-Slimdn,  364 
Avatim6,  263 
Avekvon,  233 
Avon,  Lake,  268 
Awunas,  247 
Axim  Bay,  237 

Town,  247 
A-Zandehs,  470 
Azighe,  260 
Azores,  23 
Azorian  Atlantic,  4 
AzulejoB,  73 
Azum,  344 

Ba-Ati,  476 
Ba-Bai  River,  347    '■ 
Ba-Bemba,  446 
Ba-Bu880  River,  347 
Ba-Diemba  River,  182 
Ba-Farami,  382 
Ba-IVots,  400 
Ba-lUle,  394 
Ba-Kete,  490 
Ba-Kish,  376 
Ba-Koko,  376 
Ba-Kongo,  440 
Ba-Euba,  490 
Ba-Kundn,  376 
Ba-Kutu,  492 
Ba-Kwiri,  376 
Ba-LaUi,  480 


\ 


"^"^f^^Vl^/^^  * 


4>1ij-(i»i  nairii  i'ii'iiiiiKnA»>ii><i(lSni»»<(i'ip' 


606 

Ba-Limli,  487 
Ba-Lolo8,  440 
Ba-Long,  376 
Bu-Lu8,  484 
Ba-Luba,  487 
Ba-Lumbo,  399 
Ba-Ngala,  404 
Ba-NgaLis,  440 
Ba-Ngwo,  »95 
Ba-Noko,  376 
Ba-Nyanzi,  476 
Ba-Pnko,  376 
Ba-Rincra  River,  ^20 
Ba-Sungr6,  481 
Ba-Shilange,  487 
Ba-Sok(i,  464 
Ba-Songe,  481 
Ba-Sonsfo,  464 
Ba-Songo  Mino,  492 
Ba-Sundi,  498 
Ba-Tanga»,  382 
Ba-Teke,  440,  494 
Ba-TwaB,  440,  461,483,  491 
Ba-Vili,  395 
Ba-Teke,  449 
Ba-Yongo,  449 
Ba-Zanzi,  476 
Bacu  (Bacow),  177 

Badagry,  270 

Badi,  178 

Badias,  469 

Badumb^,  157 

Bafing  River,  124,  ISO 

Bafulabe,  130,  163 

Bagas,  194 

Baghirmi,  365 

Bagida,  266 

Bagnung,  ISO 

Bagran  River,  200 

Baguinta,  296 

Baharma,  210 

Bahr-el-Abiad,  347 

Bahr-el-Ghazal,  349 

Bakel,  131,  161 

Bakhoy  River,  124,  131,  281 

Bakhunu,  298 

Bakuinit,  298 

Bakundu-ba-Nambelo,  3)tO 

Balantas,  180 

Baleira,  54 

Biunaku,  123,  157,  163,  275 

Bambamp,  292 

Bambaya,  197 

Bambuk,  153,  293 

Banmepo,  227 

Banamba,  296 

Banana,  600 
Islands,  200 
Peninsula,  432 

Bandasuma,  210 

Bangassi,  163 

Bangveolo,  Lake,  416 

Banjiars,  181 

Bansukolo  River,  200 

Banta  Race,  439 

Banya  Lako,  380 

Banza  Makuta,  498     ' ' 

Baporo,  219 
.     Baraka,  403 
Bargum,  200 

Barra-Kuuda  Rocks,  170,  173 
Barri  Tribe,  210 
Barwa,  362 
Basileh,  118 
Bassas,  219 
Bathurst,  176 
Batta,  Moiuit,  386 


INDEX. 


Battas,  329 
Battor,  255 
Baul6,  129 
Bautohi,  328 
Baynesville,  498 
Bayotes,  181 
Be,  286 
Bea,  380 
Becqua,  250 
Bohien,  247 
Bel-Air,  197 
Bele,  328 
Bele-Dugu,  290 
Belem,  332 
Belmaco,  62 
Bcmba  nation,  445 
Bena-Rianiba,  487 
Benehoare,  G2 
Bengas,  396  ? 

Benin  lUver,  288 

Bight,  231 
Benue  River,  280,  284,  324 
Ber6-bdre,  332 
Bessa,  219 
Betanouria,  68 
Beuly,  197 
Bia,  River,  231 
Biafadas,  188 
BiafaiB,  186 
Biafra,  382  ^ 

Biassc,  266 
Bibundi,  380 
Bida,  321 
Big  Ningo,  252 
Bilbas,  131 
BiUelah  Kaifal,  227 
Biinl/Bshos,  62 
Bimbia,  River,  373 

Town,  380 
Biot  Mountain,  327 
Birgo,  149,  163 
Birim,  River,  250 
Bimi,  361,  362 
Bimi  n'Ouari,  323 
Bimi  n'Kebbi,  283,  318 
Biru,  304 
Bisasma,  190 
Bissagos  Isles,  184 
Bissandu,  293 
BissJo,  185,  190 
Blanco,  Cape,  124 
Blu-Blu,  Falls,  110 
Boa-Vista,  Isles,  82,  92 
BobowuHua,  248 
Bocaina,  68 
Bnffa,  197 
Bogoma,  123 
Bohien,  227 
Bohu,  320 
Bojador,  Cape,  120 
Baieh,  225 
Bote,  197 
Bokkasah,  226 
Bokko,  Booos,  167 
Bolama,  190 
Bolobo,  494 
Bolo-Bolo,  328 
Bo-Loinbo  River,  464 
Baina,  499 
Bomana,  380 
Bompata,  250 
Bondu,  124,  163,  161 
Bonny,  River,  288 

Town,  339 
Bontukn,  237,  262 
Boosum  Frah,  237 
Bore,  299 


Burgu,  319 
Bomu,  358 
Buro,  252 

Bossaka,  River,  428 
Bowo  Falb,  389 
Braknas,  140 
Brames,  186 
Brameya,  River,  192 
Branoo  Island,  91 
BrasK,  339 

River  339 
Brava  Island,  87,  03 
Brassil  (Morro  do),  40 
Brazzaville,  480 
Bua-Bujwe,  461 
Buba,  190 
Bu-Banghi,  476 
Bubi,  Town,  227 

Tribe,  116 
Buchanan,  227 
Buddiuna,  3^ 
Budhig,  180 
Budunutns,  376 
Bugoman,  368 
Bujagos,  186 
Bulaias,  353 
Buleban^,  161 
BuUen,  Fort,  177 
Bulloms,  204 
Bumba,  210 
Bumbadi,  210 
Bunga,  River,  428 
Bunii,  404 
Bunkeya,  449 
Bunnn,  132 
BuramoB,  186 
Bme,  293 
Burgu  Island,  281 
Buria,  166 
Bumes,  188 
Burum,  282 
Bussa,  Busaam,  319 
Bussam,  OcH6,  237 
Bussi,  218,  286 
Busso,  263 
Butu  Rocks,  227 
Bwassa,  389 


Cabinda,  400 
Cabindas,  401 
Cabras  Rooks,  40,  111 
Cacheo,  190 
Cacheo,  River,  179,  182 
Cagnabao,  185 
t'alabar.  New,  339 

Old,  341 
Calamina.  268,  341 
Caldeira  das  Sete  Cidades,  37 
Caldeinu,  39 
Caldera  (Pabna),  79 

de  Bandama,  69 

de  Ids  Marteles,  69 
Caldwell,  224 
Camel  Point,  134 
Cameroona,  369 

River,  373 

Town,  380 
Canaria,  55 
Canary  Islands,  64 
Cantin,  Cape,  23,  43 
Cape-Coast.  336 
Cape-Coast  Castle,  248 
Capellas,  39 
Cape  Verd  Headland,  82 

Islands,  82 
Carabane  Island,  179 


mmtp. 


««* 


'   03 
>),40 


.-,?*■    I 


128 


m 


,  319 
237 


!7 


40,  in 

179,  182 

339 

,341 

ste  Cid»de8,  37 

»),  79 
na,  69 
rteles,  69 

134 

9 

J 

9 

8,64 

23,43 

35 

ksUe,  248 

ndland,  82 

2 

nd,  179 


CaroeiM  Riven,  193 

Cardon  Mountuna,  68 

Carpentcar'i  Rook,  210 

CaMnuum,  178 
River,  178 

CasillaB,  68 

CaaBini  River,  172,  184 

Castillo  del  Rey,  70 

Cavallj  River,  216 

Cayar,  132 

Cajror,  134,  143 

Cedro  Peak,  79 

Cestos,  River,  216 

Chadda,  River,  284 

Chahorra,  73  '. 

Chantba,  332 

Charoo  Verde,  79 

Chi,  241 

Chipude,  78 

Chriatianaborg,  260         ,; 

Ohimsh  Rock,  97       • 

Cidade,  112 

Cima  ae  Qinamar,  69 

Circo  de  lo«  CaBadaa,  73 

Clarence  Town,  118 

Clajr-Aahknd,  224 

Cobolia,  210 

Comb*  River,  173,  184 

Conunendah,  248 

Componi,  182,  191 

Congo  Baain,  411 
Satnary,  432,  496 
Free  State,  443,  601 

Coniqaet  laland,  384 

Corbelha  laland,  186 

Coriaoo  Idand,  386,  402 

CoTO,  219 

Corona  Volcano,  66    . 

Corvo  laland,  26,  42 

Creek-Town,  341 

Ciiby,  383 

Cnu  Peak,  79 

Gryatal  Mountaina,  386 
Ciianca  River,  428 
Cumaaai,  244,  260 
Cumbre,  69,  79 


Dabo,  Lake,  281 
Dabn,  236 
Dadeaaai,  263 
Dagana,  131,  161 
Dagomba,  266 
Data,  River,  260 
Dahomey,  257,  260,  267 
Dakar,  169,  160 
DaUul  Boaao,  283 
Damerghu,  313 
Damfa,  237 
Damtari,  298 
Damga,  149 
Danlora,  240 

Tribe,  241 
Danoa,  366 
Danaofa,  336 
Daura,  313 
Debena,  293 
Deh,  Tribe,  218 
Deheaa,  80 
Denham,  Lake,  268 
Deaertaa  lalanda,  47 
Devil'a  Cauldron,  431  ' 
Diafanb«,  167,  298 
Diaka,  299 
Diamu,  162 
Diana  Peak,  101 
Dianghirti,  163 


mmmmmmmmm 


INDEX. 


Didi,  293 

Diego  Alvarez,  Island,  97 

Di«K,  406,  407 

Dikoa,  364 

Dilolo,  Lake,  428 

Dimar,  140 

Dinuna,  173 

Dinguiray,  163 

Dio,  167 

Dixoove,  248 

Doloo,  364 

Dori,  306 

Douhol,  184 

Dover  Cliflla,  430 

Duohi,  314 

Duke-Town,  341 

Dum6,  406 

Falls,  389 
Durburi,  236      ,    ^ 
Dwa'ish,  138 
Dwallas,  376 
Dwentsa,  299 
Dwinuua,  260 

I 

Ebo,  338 

£bri6,  Lagoon,  230 

Eoheyde,  73 

Edea,  River,  373 

Edina,  227 

Edu,  2V6 

Efik,  332 

Egba,  262,  330 

Egga,  323 

^bbi,  322 

Eaembue,  River,  371 

Elephant  Island,  177 
Lake,  373 
Mountain,  383 

Elf  Alfu,  364 

Elinkin,  182 

Elleamere  Range,  327 

Elmina,  248 

Elobey  Island,  386,  402 

Emboma,  499 

Epe,  271 

Equatorial  France,  386 

EquatorviUe,  466 

Erbania,  68 

Eaaim,  248 

Ewe,  Ewhe,  260 

Eweme,  260 

Eyo,  River,  387 

Eyoa,  262,  331 

Fakba,  210,  293 
Falama,  293 
Falemc   131 
Fall,  328 
Faliko,  281 
Fall  Station,  463 
False  Cape,  200 
Famara,  Mount,  66 
Fans,  396 
Fanti,  242,  246 
Farabana,  162 
Fara-Bugu,  298 
Faranna,  292  . 

Farim,  190 

River,  183 
Faro  River,  286 
Fatik,  160 
Fatta-Tenda,  177 
Fayal  laland,  26,  41 
FeluFalla,  130 
Felups,  180 
Femio  Vaz  River,  384 


Wl 


Femando-Po,  113 

Ferro  Island,  6G,  80 

Fessabue,  225 

Fetish  Point,  389 

Fetish  Stone,  431 

Fida,  207 

Fika  Mountains,  344 

Finnema,  340 

Firdu,  179 

Firgas,  71 

Fisherman's  Lake,  218,  223 

Fitri,  Lake,  364 

Flores  Island,  25,  42 

Fogni,  181 

Fogo  Island,  93 

Forbes,  Mount,  327 

Forcedos  River,  288 

Forekarea,  193 

Formigas  Reefs,  24,  33 

Formosa  Island,  186 

Fortaleza,  77 

Fortunate  Islands,  2 

Frances- Kunda,  161 

Franceville,  406,  477 

Freetown,  201,  210 

French  Congo,  476 

Fuerteventura,  68 

Fugumba,  166 

Fuka-Fuka,  499 

Fulahs,  146 

Fula-Dugu,  163 

Fuluns,  181 

Funohal,  64  > 

Fundiun,  160 

Futah  Bay,  212 

Fuma,  94 

Fumaa  (d'Enxofre),  40     • 

Furnas  (Val  das),  36 

Futa-JaJlon,  123,  128 


Gk,  240  '      , 

Gabi  River,  326 
Gaboon  Basin,  384    .       ' 

River,  387 
Ga-Koko,  492 
Galaba,  292 
Gaidar,  72 
GUUinaa,  206 
(Jallinhaa  Islands,  186 
Gambarag^ara  Mountain,  436 
Gambia,  170 

River,  170 
Ganar,  66,  140 
Gandi,  316 
Gandiole,  133 
Gaudo,  316 

Kingdom,  306,  312 
Garachico,  76 
Garajonia,  77 
Garangaja,  443 
Ghiro  n'Bautohi,  333 
Gara,  306 
Geba,  189,  320 
George  Mountains,  430 
Georgetown,  108,  177 
Gettysburg,  Bank  of,  44 
Ghana,  276 
Gbere  Mountfiins,  343 
Ghini,  298 

Gingunshi  Falls,  429 
Ginyia,  120 
Girao,  C>tpe,  46 
Glajebo,  319 
Gl£,  Lagoon,  230 
Glebos,  233 
Olehwe,  267 


1 


I       '  ''   ' 


t-rtra'Mii>V|iV!^itf> 


Id^- '  ■ 


608 

CJodomey,  269 
Oogo,  Oao,  304 
Ookhiun-Laye,  168 
Qola  Tribe,  218 
Gold  Coast,  236 
Gomba,  283,  319 
Gtomera  iHland,  76 
Gk>nda,  456 
Oonfud6,  164 
Gongola  Rivor,  327 
Gonzalo  Alvarez,  97 
Gora  Pass,  327 
Gordo  Mountain,  91 
Gor6«,  159,  160 
Gorgades,  82 
Gk>ugh  Islaud,  97 
GracioHa  Iidand  (Azoreo),  40 

(Canaries),  68 
Gran  Canarta,  67,  68 
Grand-Bassa,  227 
Grand-Bassam,  229,  231,  236 
Granville,  210 
Great  Butu  tlook,  227 
Popo,  267 
Scaroie,  193 

Grebos,  219 

Greenville,  227 

Gregory's  Valley,  101 

Greji,  267 

Grey  River,  172 

Gross  Friederioksburg,  248 

Guajarra,  73 

Quanart^e,  70 

Guanches,  62 

Guet-Ndar,  168 

Gufei,  364 

Guidali,  190 

Guidimakha,  146 

Goier,  132 

Goimar,  73,  76 

Gttimbering,  179 

Guinala  River,  184 

Guin6,  182 

Guinea,  Falla  of,  131 

Guinea,  120 

Guinea  Stream,  1 

Gumbana,  186 

Gumbu,  298 

Guras,  218 

Gurin,  332 

Gurmas,  306 

Gyaman,  236,  262 

Kaho,  258 
Half  Aasini,  247 
Halip  Anaghim,  124 
Hamdallalu,  299 
Harang  Iskuid,  186 
Haiatin,  141 
Harper,  227 
HaBBans,  138 
Hastings,  210 
Haussa  Land,  306 
Hauaaawa,  309 
Hell-Gate,  101 
Hersohell  Mountain,  327 
Hesperides,  2 
Hierro  Island,  66,  80 
,.  Hii^o,  252 
Hombori  Mountains,  300 
Horta,  26,  41 
Hubus,  206 


Ibadan,273 
Ibeas,  376,  383 
Ibo,  330 


INDEX. 


Idafe,  79 

Idda,  337 

Ifume  River,  457 

Igaon,  272 

Ignrra,  330 

Igbegbe,  337 

Igumbi  Ndelo  Mountain,  386 


iTayeh,  274 
ikalemi 


lemba  River,  426 
Ikatta  River,  402 
Ikoradu  Lake,  268 
Ikorofiong,  341 
Iktus,  262 
Ikung,  319 
nala,  446 
Debu,  477 
Dheo  Branco,  83 

Razo,  83 
Ilheos  Seocoe,  94 
Ilorin,  320 

Imohagh,  Lnosharh,  300 
Inaccessible  Island,  97 
Inkram,  241 
Inquauta,  260 
Insuaim,  260 
Inta,  241 
Irebu,  477 
Ireghenaten,  301 
Isangila,  498 

Isleta  de  Gh»n  Canari»,  6{ 
Itimbiri  River,  426 
IviU,  396 
Ivindo  River,  389 
Ivory  Coast,  119,  229 
I-Bambe,  448 
Itawa,  458 

Jaok-Jaok,  233 
JeUahu.  269 
Jalla-Kota,  178 
Jallonke-Dugu,  293 
JaUonk^s,  146,  206 
Jambi,  477 
James,  Fort,  177 
Jamestown,  106 
Jandia,  68 
Janra,  162 
Javanja,  382 
Jega,  318 
Jeg^,  260 
Jendi,  237,  262 
Jenn6,  281,  299 
Jewjew-Town,  340 
Jeziret-el-Ghaitam,  44 

et-Thi{lr,  44 
Jiguahes,  181 
Jimak  Greek,  177 
Jinabim,  260 
Joal.160 

JoUba  River,  119,  275 
Jolof,  137 
Juapa  River,  466 
Jugpits,  181 
Jnma  River,  429 

Eaarta,  124, 162 
Eaballa,  210 
Eabara,  304 
Eabba  River,  210 
Eftbils,  181 
Kabogo,  Oape,  423 
Kaddera  River,  327 
Kad£,  190 

Eaduna  River,  284,  322 
KageriK  River,  436 
KaLangwa,  Cape,  460 


Kahwele,  456 
Kaimuts,  181 

Kaiser  Wilhelm's  Bad,  382 
Kakandi,  197 
Kakoma,  456 
Kakondo,  501 
Kakongo-Songo,  601 
Kakrima  River,  191 
Kakulima  MounUin,  192 
Kakundi  River,  191 
Kala,  298 
Kalabugu,  297 
Kalangi  River,  485 
Kalebwe.  482 
Kalongozi  River,  419 
Ka-Lunda,  484 
Kamalle  Mountain,  343 
Kamaranka,  300 
Kambia,  210 

Kamolondo  River,  419,  449 
Kana,  268 
Kanabak,  185 
Kana-Mina,  268 
Kanankora,  292 
Kanem,  354 
Kanembu,  366 
Kan^ba,  296 
Kamera,  295 
Eankan,  293 
Kankar^,  295 
Kankora  River,  426 

Kano,  314  >> 

Kantor,  177 

Kantora,  178 

Kanuri,  358 

Kaolak,  160 

Kapwwnga  Falls,  428 

Kaponda,  446 

Karema,  457 

Kamak,  364 

Kasaaooobuli,  197 

Kaswti  River,  428,  481 

KaasaU  Lake,  448 

Kassanj^,  493 

Kaaaonkia,  146 

Kasaongo,  461 

Katagum,  313 
River,  313 

Katanga,  274,  449 

Kateko  River,  191 

Katete,  458 

Kataena,  309,  313 

Katuma  River,  467 

Katunga,  320 

Kavala,460 

Kavele,  456 

Kawanda,  486 

Kaye^  166,  162 

Kazeh,  454 

Kazemb6s,  447 

Keaua,  336 

Kobbi,  311 

KefB,  336 

Kenieba,  101 
Hills,  124 

Kennedy  Ittlanda,  239 

Kentucky,  224 

Keribina,  S59 

KeaalsUmd,  283 

Keta,256 

Ket£,  262 

Ketimkuru's,  446 

Khaba  Mountain,  179 

Khabun'ke,  179 

Khalidat  Idanda,  66 

Kibanga  Mountoina,  436 

Kilemba,  451 


,?-„.:..,;■ 


'8  Bad,  382 


1,601 

191 
lUin,  192 

191 


486 

r,  419 

»{n;343 
0 

er,  419,  449 


,426         .         <' 

1^  » 


Is,  428 


97 

128,  481 
148 


449 
191 

313 
,467 


12 


tda,  239 


!83 


446 

»in,  179 
79 

ids,  66 
ntaina,  436 


Kimbanga,  407 
Kimbundu,  491 
Kimpata,  449 
Kimpopo,  497 
King  Awa'H  Town,  380 
Bill's  Town,  380 
William's  Town,  219 
Kinjabo,  236 

River,  231 
Kinkaasa,  497 
Kiokoa,  440,  484 
Kiotoa,  491 
Kiranda,  457 
Kirotashi,  306 
Kisim9ni6,  486 
Kiasi,  201 
Kitai  Island,  417 
Kita,  167,  163 
Ko,  268 
Koba,  191 
Kobitai,  191 
Kodogus,  364 
Koghi,  162 
Kokofu,  260 
Kokorotohe,  368 
KolIad6,  160 
Komo  River,  384,  387 
Kona,  299 
Konakri,  193,  197 
Kong  Mountains,  230,  237 
Kong  Town,  293 
Komnk6  Island,  384 
Konni,  316 
KonoH,  206 

Konaotomi,  197 

Kontokora,  319 

Korabft  River,  281 

Koranza,  262 

Koromantin,  260 

Kosaa,  Koasu,  204 

Kotonu,  260,  269 

Kpando,  264  ;       > 

Kpong,  261,  26S 

Krakre,  238,  262 

Kiain,  266 

Kwpi,  247,  260 

Krim,  198 

Kiobo,  247 

Kroo-bur,  219 

Kioomen,  219 

Kufn,  366 

Kni-Kum,  464 

Kuka,  361,  362 

Kukuruku,  330 

Kdfo,  318 

Kulikoro,  167,  296 

Kumba,  380 

Kundn,  163 

Knniakari,  131,  162 

Kuiankos,  206,  291 

Kuri,  367 

Kunefi,  312 

Kuta,  Bahr,  363,  426 

Ktttainpo,  262 

Kwa-Kwa,  233,  373 

Kwa  River,  428 

Kwamonth,  429,  494 

Kwango  Kver,  428,  in 

Ewara  River,  276 

KwUtt  River,  390,  480 

KjMpaag,  241 


Lab«,  166 
Labu,  407 
Ladder  Hill,  106 
Lagens,  41 


INDEX. 


Lagoa  Azul,  37 
Lagoa  8eoca,  37 
do  Fogo,  37 
Lagos,  258,271 
Island,  271 
Laguna,  76 

Plateau,  73 
Lahob«,  310 
Lahu  River,  230 
Lama,  268 
Lambar£n£,  404 
Lamtuna,  138 
Landana,  407 
Landon  Mountain,  230 
Landnman,  194 
Langi  Lake,  426 
Lansarote,  66,  66 
Lapa,  92 
LeoUe,  271 
Leeward  Coast,  229 
Lefeni  River,  428 
Lefia  BM-BM,  336 
L«k6ti,  406,  477 
Lembo,  497 
LeopoldU.  Lake,  428 
LeopoldviUe,  497 
Letreros,  81 
Lia,  292 

Liamba  Mountains,  467 
Liba  Lake,  383 
Liberia,  212 
Liberians,  221 

Libreville,  402 

Liemba,  467 

Lif un  River,  284 

LikwaUa  River,  428 

Limbaa,206 

Lincoln,  183     - 

Linsola,  480 

Lisaoka,  380 

Little  Baseam,  230 

Little  Bntu  Rook,  227       ^ 

Little  Kroo,  219 

Little  Popo.  266 

Little  Scuoie,  210 

Livingstone  Falls,  430 

Loanpiri,  407 

Loangp,  406 

LobeRiver,  373 

Loba«  Island,  68 

LoFuko  River,  468 

Logon  River,  347 

Lo-Hambo  Lake,  420 

Lotka  River,  426 

Loldnga  Mountains,  436 

Loko,  336 

Lokoia,  337 

Lo-Mami  River,  426,  42r 

Loma  Mountains,  291 

Lompul,  169 

Longwood,  102, 106 

L^,  404 

Lopes,  Gape,  111,  886 

Lopon  River,  426 

Los  Islands,  102 

Lo-Tembwa  Biver,  428 

Lua-Laba  River,  413,  426,  444 

Lua-Nge  River,  491 

Lua-Ngua  lUver,  436 

Lna-Pula  River,  419,  444 

Lu-Bari  lUver,  419 

Lu>Bilash  River,  425 

Lnbuku,  487 

liueenda,  447 

Lu-Ebo  River,  490 

Lu-Fira  River,  419 

Lu-Fn,  430 


609 


I 


Lu-Fu  River,  426 
Lu-Fula  River,  410 
Luga,  150 
Lu-l2a  River,  486 
Lu-Koba  River,  4G3 
Lu-Kcnjre  River,  429,  402 
Lukolela,  494 
Lu-Kuga  River,  «10,  423 
Lukungu,  408 
Lu-Laba  River,  410 
Lu-Jiami  River,  426 
Lu-Longo  River,  434 

Station,  464 
Lu-Lu  River,  430 
Lu-Lua  River,  428,  483,  490 
Luluaburg,  480 
Lunda,  446,  401 
Luteto,  408 
Lu-Vo  River,  401 
Luz  Port,  70 


Mabani,  364 
Mabas,  362 
Ma-Bea,  383 
Maoaronesia,  40 
MacCarthy  Island,  173 
Machico,  47 

Mac  Iver  Mountain,  327 
Madeira,  43 
Madina,  223 
Mafra,  382 
Mafu,  131 
Magar,  343 
Magumi,  368 
Magommeri,  364 
Mabel  Danevel,  281 
Mahi,  260,  268 
Mahin,  271 
Maio  Island,  83,  92 
Maio-Reio,  130 
Ma-Jumba,  406 
Makadiambugudi,  163 
Makari,  369,  366 
Makhi,  260 
Ma-Kima,  397 
Makua  River,  426 
Malagarazi  River,  423 
Malemba,  408 
MaU,  300 
MaU'nke,  174 
Malimba  River,  373 
Malleooiy  River,  193 
Maminia  Mountain,  123 
Mampong,  260 
Mandara,  369 
Mand«,  174,  203 
Mandingan  State,  296 
Mandingans,  174,  206,  296 
Manea,  193 
Manga  (Bomu),  360 
Mang-Banga,  468 
Manna  Point,  213 
Man-of-War  Bay,  380 
Mansu,  248,  260 
Manjriuiga,  408 
Ma-Nyema,  461 
Mao,  367 
Maradi,  314 
Marghi,  360 

Manhali,  227  •> 

Mart«,  364 
Mamkntu's,  446 
Ma-Rnngu,  468 
Maryland,  227 
Masadn,  226 
Maawbi  River,  386 


IjCiigi  I'lill 


51U 


INDEX. 


H 


MaMabi  Town,  407 
Mawwlit,  353 
MummAf.,  3»8 
MaHHiiia,  '200 
Matacong  Inland,  133 
Mutadi,  408,  400 
Matam,  101 
Matanza,  70 
Matuinba,  Lake,  428 
Ma-Vurabu,  410 
Mujro  River,  'ITS 
Mayo  Kebbi,  284 
Ma-Yombe,  400 
Maso,  70 
Ma-Zuna,  397 
Mbenga,  402 
Mbijen   169 
Mbimbi  I'alla,  428 
Mbinga,  380 
Mbombo  River,  425 
Mbonjo,  470 
Mboro,  159 
Mboshi,  477 
Mburu  River,  403 
Medica,  238 
Medina  (Oambia),  177 
Medina  (Liberia),  2.>7 
Medina  (Senegral),  102 
Mellaoor^  River,  193 
Mendi,  204 
Meudif  Mountain,  344 
Mene  River,  370 
Menae  Peak,  408 
Merinaghen,  Lake,  132 
Messiras,  447 
Mesurado  Gape,  216 

District,  215 

River,  216 
Mfua,  480 

Mfuinbiro  Mountain,  430 
Mikunga,  497 
Millsburg,  224 
MUo  River,  292 
Mina  Territory,  206 
Mina  Tribe,  247,  260 
Mindello,  91 
Minung^oa,  403 
Miahi,  330 
Miaaene,  364 
Mitombo,  198 
Mkafu  River,  467 
Moanda,  600 
Moanya  River,  373 
Moaasina,  £  19 
Moete,  299 
Moero,  Lake,  419 
Mofwe,  Lake,  447 
Mogfodom,  364 
Monbuttua,  467 
Mondo,  368 
Mondole,  380 
Mo-Ngala  River,  42S 
MongaJla,  464 
MonroviA,  219 
Montana  Benneja,  73 

Blanca,  67 

Clara,  61,  66        ' 
Monte  del  Fuego,  67 
Monte  Verde.  64 
Montumba,  Lake,  477 
Mo-Nyembo,  476 
Moon,  138 

Mora,  364  i;r\  .,- 

Morebia,  193 
Morfil  Island,  131 
Moshi,  494 
Moawka  River,  428 


Mosai,  306 

Mount  Cape,  213 

Muye,  405 

Mpal,  169 

Mpala,  458 

Mpimbwe,  467 

Mpongwes,  304 

MpoRo  River,  430 

MsuaU.  480 

MuohachoB  Peak,  79 

Munda  River,  387 

Mungo  Uiver,  373 

Mum  River,  387 

Munio,  363 

Murdia,  298 

Murgula,  163 

Muri,  335 

Musgo,  359 

Musardu,  226 

MuHhinga  Mountains,  448 

MuHsambu,  451 

Muta  N'zige,  Lake.  426 

Mu-Tumbi,  470 

Nadiaga,  146 
NagoB,  262 
NaluB,  194 
Nana  Kroo,  219 
Nana  River,  426 
Nazaretli  Bay,  386 
Ndar,  167 
Ndar-Tout,  168 
Ndoni,  338 
Nelia,  281,  292 
Nepoko  River,  426 
New  Calabar,  288,  339 
New  York  (Liberia),  224 
Ngala,  364 
Ngatohu,  480 
Ngaundere,  286,  332 
Nghiri,  476 
Ngi^,  362 
Ngijem,  366 
Ngimi,  406  ,    ^ 

Ngombe,  494 
Ngomu,  362 
Ngotu,  406 
Ngoyo,  601 
Ngume  River,  389 
Nguri,  366,  358 
Niadi,  River,  390 
Niagassola,  167,  163 
Niakongo,  299 
Niam-Niams,  470 
Nia.iing,  160 
Niari-Babwende,  -.'OS 
Niari-Ludima,  400 
Niohols  Island,  380 
Nifu  Port,  227 

Tribe,  219 
Niger  Delta,  287 

River,  276  <.  , . 

Nightingale  Island,  97 
Niki,  319 
Nimro,  364 
Niogomera,  162 
Nioro,  162,  298 
Nivaria,  66 
Niole,  404 
Nkala-Nkala,  499 
Nkbeni  River,  428 
Nkissi  River,  430 
Nkongolo,  499 
NkunTia,  426 
Nknnjia,  476 
Nokhwe,  Lake,  268 


Noki,  490 
Nshiuda,  447 
Nta,  240 
Ntamo,  497 
Nublo  Rook,  69 
Nun,  Cape,  56 
River,  287 
Nuflez,  River,  121,  191 
Nup6,  312,  321 
Nyamina,  206 
Nyamesi,  440 
Nyanga,  River,  389 
Nyangwe,  462 
Nyem-Nyem,  328 

Oba,  260 
Obutu,  241 
Odi,  271 
Ogbomosho,  274 
Ogoway  Basin,  386 

River,  388 
Ogun  River,  268 
OTi,  240 
Okandas,  396 
Okangas,  477 
Ok^adan,  271 
O-Koaa,  399 
Okota,  404,  477 
Okpara,  271 
Okwahu,  237 
Old  Calabar,  288,  341 
OldAeld  Range,  327 
Onitoha,  337 
Onjriko  Mountain,  386 
Orango  Island,  186 
Oratava,  73,  76 
Oshin,  233 
Oshun  River,  274 
Usomari,  338 
Osyebas,  306 
Otombi  Mountain,  386 
Owo  River,  260 
Oyo,  274 

Oyono  River,  288  •^' 
Oyster  Creek,  173 

Padrilo,  Cape,  432 
Pabna,  79,  271 

Island,  79 
Fabuas  (Las),  73 

Cape,  17,  216 
Fambete,  468 

Bay,  421 
Pambine,  281 
Panda,  337 
Pani^ful,  132 
Papela,  185 
Paro  Biver,  286 
Pasaa  River,  388 
Paul  da  Serra,  47 
PeU,  264 
Pend£s,  492 
Pessi,  218 
Pico  Island,  24 
Pico- Alto,  40 
Pioo  da  Antonio,  92 

da  Cnu,  37 

do  Fogo,  109 

da  Vara,  34 

Viejo,  75 
Pisanii,  177 
Fiton  Islands,  64 
■  Fla,  267 
Playa  Quemada,  67 
Podor,  131 
Pok6  Island,  248 


■%■• 


INDEX. 


511 


■21,  191 

389 
28 

I 

385 

8 


18,  341 
,  327 

in,  386 
186 


74 


lin,  386 

t 

!88 
173 

432 


79 
216 


)5 

188 

,47 


do,  92 
37 
109 
34 


,64 
ds,  67 

248 


Pokra.  271 
Pombo,  405,  477 
Ponjfi>  River,  191 
Ponta-DplRada,  30,  38 
Ponta  iHliind,  185 
Pontn  till  Lenho,  600 
Poiita-Negra,  407 
Popo,  Great,  267 

LitUe,  206,  267 
Portendik,  159 
Porto-Orande,  88,  01 
Port-Lokko,  210 
Porto-Novo,  257,  209 
Porto-Santo  iHland,  47,  54 
Porto-8eguro,  266 
Portudal,  160 
PotoM,  240 
Povo,  266 
Povo  Grande,  410 
PovoaoSo,  38 
Poao  de  la  Nieve,  69 
Prah  River,  238 
PmhBU,  260 
Prain  (Azores),  40 

(8.  Thiajfo),  92 
Pramprani,  252 
Principe  (Prince's)  Island,  112 
Prindsensteen,  256 
Puerto  de  Cabras,  68 

Hierro,  81 

Naos,  67 

Qua,  332 

Qua-Qua  River,  373 
Quantampoh,  262 
Quara,  River,  276 
Quemado  Rocks,  42 
Quetta  Lagoon,  239 
QuetUh,  265 

Rabba,  320 

Ramboe,  River,  .  14,  387 

Razo,  Itdand,  91 

Reggas,  440 

Rei-Buba,  332 

ReiH,  Island,  406  •       y    t 

Rey,  Rio  del,  310 

Rhab,  162 

Ribeira-Brava,  02 

Bibeira-Grande  (S.  Antam),  90,  93 

(S.  Miguel),  38 
Ribeira  Quente,  36 
Riohard  Toll,  160 
Rikwah,  Lake,  436 
Rio  da  Cobra,  238 
Rio-Grande,  173,  184 
Rio  del  Rey,  370 
RiodelCampo,  371,  387 
Riverside,  266 
Robertsport.  223 
Roderick,  Mountain,  327 
Rokelle,  Biver,  200 
Roxo,  Gape,  124,  199 
Rua  Land,  440 
Ruanda,  460 
Ruas,  440 
Rubicon,  67 
Rufisque,  160 
Roivo  Peak,  47 
Ruki,  River,  426 
Rumbi,  Mountain,  372 
Ru-Sizi,  River,  421,  423 
Russwurm  Isliuid,  227 

Sabrina  Island,  37 
Sabuoir^,  162 


Hafiroko,  205 

Siilmru,  110 

Sai,  306 

St.  Andrew  Mountains,  230 

St.  Ann,  CutH),  191 

St.  Antam,  iHlund,  88 

St.  Antonio,  Oupe,  432 

St.  Georges,  182 

St.  Helena,  17,  100 

St.  John,  River,  227 

C!ape,  37  a 
St.  Joseph  do  Ngasobil,  160 
St.  Louis,  157 
St.  Mary,  iMlaiid,  177 

Cape    177 
St.  PauVCapo.  239,  267 

River,  216 
St.  Roquo,  Cape,  6 
St.  Vincent,  87,  91 
S  is,  1 
Saketey,  269 
Sal,  Island,  12 
Salaga,  237,  252 
Salamats,  360 
Sald6,  161 
Snbnore  Reefs,  80 
Salum,  River,  134 
8olr»y,  92 
Salt  Islands,  82 
Samaya,  210 
Samba  Falls,  389 
San-Benito,  River,  387 
Sancillo,  69 
Sandy  Bay,  101 
Sangaras,  194,  291 
Sangarea,  192 
Sango-Katab,  323 
Sanguin,  River,  216 
San-Jorg«,  40 

Miguel,  24,  34 
Miguel  de  Teguise,  67 
Peiw,  River,  215 
Sankuru,  River,  428 
Sebastian,  79 
Sankarans,  194 
Sansandig,  281,  208  . 

Bansane  Aissa,  316  ' 

Santa-Anna,  111 

Cruz  (Graciosa),  40 

Cruz  de  la  Palma,  79 

Cruz  de  Tenerifle,  65,  73,  75 

Liuia,  Island,  01 

Isabel,  118 

Maria  (Island),  25,  33 

(Town),  33 
Ursula,  76 
Santo-AntSo,  82,  88 

Domingos,  Biver,  1*2 
Mo  Christovam,  92 
FUippe,  82,  94 
JoSo-Batista,  94  - 

Jorge,  Mountain,  49    <   * 
Lourent^,  Cape,  46 
Nicolau,  83,  87,  91 
Thiago,  82,  86,  92 
Thome  Island,  111 
Vicente,  91 
San-Salvador,  498 
Sap^s,  194 
Saraki.  320 
Sarakol^B,  141,146 
Saras,  366 
Sarau,  332 
Sardinas  (Las),  71 
Sargasso  Sea,  13,  14 
Saria,  322 
Sassandra  Mountains,  230 


RauooH  (Tjos),  70 

Sauzal,  75 

Siivalu,  21(9 

Snvi,  268 

ScuruioH,  Rivers,  193 

Si'bi,  464 

Scdhiu,  181 

Ht'fur,  166 

Sog-Scg,  309,  322 

Segu,  297 

Sclvagons  Reefs,  64 

Stiie,  262 

Senegal  River,  119,  128,  132 

Colony,  110 
Scnegambia,  119 
Sonu-Debu,  161 
Serers,  143 
Serombo,  464 
Sorreta,  30 
Scte  Cidades,  37 
Setto  Cama,  River,  390 
Hettra-Kroo,  219 
Shaderba,  276 
Shari,  River,  344,  347 
Shark  Point,  432 
Sherbro  Island,  126,  198 
Shifawa,  316 
Shilling,  Cape,  200 
Shinko,  River,  425 
Shinshosho,  407 
Shonga-Wharf,  320 
Sia,  Mountain,  263 
Siad6,  253 
Sibanghe,  392 
Sibi,  296 
Sibila,  298 

Sierra-Guerreira,  383 
Sierra-Leone,  197 

Peninsula,  199 
Sieto  Sierras,  386 
Sillakunda,  173 
Simpa,  250 
Sinder  (Niger),  306 

(Bomu),  363 
Sinu  River,  216 
Sisilbe,  310 
Slave  Coast,  160,  266 
So,  368 
Soadra,  260 
Soghoran,  310 

Sokolo,  298  i 

Sokoto,  312,  316 

River,  283      ^X         <      i 
Sokotoro,  166  '     -'•: 

Solima,  206 
Som6,  266 
Somono,  207 
Somrai,  366  ' 

Songhai,  Sourhai,  301 
Sou^rrogu,  170 
Soninkes,  174 
Sopo,  380 
Sor,  168 

Sorya,  167  •  ;'  /  ; 

Sotuba  Reef,  281 
Stanley  Falls,  425,  463 

Pool,  430,  497 
Stockton  Creek,  224 
Su-Sus,  194 
Sublum,  226 
Sumata,  210 
Sumbas,  194 

Sun-du-Mali  Mountain,  123 
Surmi,  316 


1 


'i 


TaUe  Mountain 
Tabora,  464 


,6 


612 

Ttioorontc,  75 

Tuditmakka,  300 

TufiiwiaaHet,  Wed,  '283 

TiixanHnn,  7J> 

Tiimbtt,  164 

Tiimbiiuro,  124,  166 

Tunirunyika,  414 

TunHiMK),  281 

Tatitafara,  2U2 

Tanwd,  230,  237 

Tarkwtt,  248 

Tohamboni  River,  410 

T.^hBHi  Kiver,  417 

Tihi»M)kog,  401 

T(  him  BwandB,  601 

T.^iitambo,  44tt 

Tohi>a,  601 

Teguiue,  67 

Tejoda,  69 

Telde,  71 

Tombikundu,  278,  281 

Tembi  River,  281 

Tens  River,  160 

Tenenku,  299 

Toiieriffe,  72 

Teroeira  Island,  39 

Teror,  71 

Teasawa,  313 

Tesai,  262 

TeydePeak,  11,68,  72 

Three  Points,  (Jape,  229,  237 

Tiapi,  190 

Timbi,  166 

Timbo,  164,  193 

Timbuktu,  303 

Timni,  Timani,  203 

Tintinpoh,  252 

Tirdz6  Mountains,  344 

Togo,  267,  206 

Tofii,  268 

Tomin^  River,  184 

Topo  da  Coroa,  89 

Torodos,  310 

Toron,  Torongo,  293 

Tossai,  282 

Touoouleurs,  146,  297,  310 

Trarzas,  138 

Tristam  da  Cunha  Island,  17,  97 

Tsad  Basin,  342,  344 

Tuaregs,  311 

Tuba,  166 

Tu-Bindi,  487 

Tuburi,  284,  347 

Tuineja,  68 

Tumbo  Island,  193 

Tunduwa,  499 

Tungwa,  498 

Tunturun,  166,  173 

Tu-Shil»nge,  487 

Tu-Shilonge,  440 

Twi,  241 


U-Banghi  River,  426,  476 
U-Betas,  477 
U-Boari,  421 
U-Fib«,  467 
U-Oalla,  467 
U-Guba,  469 
U-Kahweude,  467 
U-Earaga,  466 
U-Konongo,  467 
U-Nyaiubiembe,  461 


INDEX. 

U-Nyame«l,  461 
U-Rumix.,  464 
U-Ranga,  464 
U-Rua,  449 
U-Rungu,  457 
U-SumlH!,  i  19 
U-Vinza,  456 
U-Yui,  454 
Uj6,  364 
Ujiji,  466 
Ulad-el-Haj,  140 
Ulad-Embarek,  140 
Ulu-Ulu  River,  281 
Um-er-Rbia,  128 
Uman,  341 
Underhill,  499 
Unkea,  449 
Upoto,  464 

Vaoas,  181 
Vagres,  194 
Vakaria,  197 
Valle-Hermoso,  70 
Valverde,  81  ' 

Vanswah,  224 
Vara  Peak,  34 
Voi  Tribe,  206,  218 
Vellas,  40 
Venegue.a,  60 
Verga,  Cape,  194 
Vergoyo,  Peak,  79 
Veru,  C»pe,  124 
Islands,  8'i 
Viano  Hills,  436 
Victoria,  Cameroons,  197,  380 

TeneriHe,  76 
Villa  do  Porto,  34 
Villafranca,  38 
Virginia,  224 

Vista,  600 

Vivi,  498 

VolcSo  Mountain,  37 

Volta,  River,  236,  238 

Voonda,  498 

Vua-Fifa,  467 

Vua-Oalhi,  46«_ 

Vua-Gunda,  453 

Vua-Hha,  466 

Vua-Hiya,  461 

Vua-Huma,  466 

Vua-Kissinga,  446 

Vua-Lunda,  481 

Vua-Nyamezi,  461 

Vua-Regga,  461 

Vua-Rua,  481 

Vua-Tuta,  466 

Vua-Tuzi,  456 

Vua-Twas,  440,  461 

Vua-Ussi,  446 

Vua-Vinza,  461  ' 

Vukkah  Mountains,  225      , 


Wa-Biza,  446,  446 
Wa-Buma,  440,  494        „ 
Wadai,  362 
Wadan,  121 
Wakari,  330 
Walata,  298,  304 
Walo.  141 

Wandala  MountunB,  343 
Wangara  Sea,  277 
HillB,  286 


Wango,  River,  389 
Wango-Wango,  499 
Wara,  363 
Wa-RamU.  448 
Warkhor,  100 
Waropfing,  263 
W««Miw,  237,  248 
Wassulu,  28H 
Waterloo,  210 
WoUo,  R  ver,  426,  466 
Wellington,  I'lO 
Wbemi,  River,  260 
Whydah,  267 
Wilberforoe,  210 
Winnebah,  260 
Windward  Coast,  229 
Woghodogho.  306 
Woh-Wob,  319 
Wolofs,  86,  140 
Wraso,  250 
Wukari,  335 
Wuri,  River,  373 
Wuris,  376 
Wumo,  312 
Wurukus,  328 


Ya,  323  ' 

Yakoba,  333 
Yambumba,  464 
Yamina,  177,  296 
Yanda,  252 
Yarbu-Tenda,  177 
Yarubas,  260 
Yassin,  180 
Yawa,  364 
Yebu,  271 
Yebns,  262 
Yedi,  364 
Yedinas,  367 
Yeghyi,  238 
YeUala  Falls,  430 
Yembe,  458 
Yendi,  262 
Yene,  262 

Yeu.  River,  313,  346 
Yoaru,  299 
Yob6  Falls,  387 
Yolas  (Felup),  181 
Yola,  Town,  332 
York,  210 
Yoruba,  272 
Yttrubas,  260,  262 


Zagoshi,  320 
Zave,  River,  411,  492 
Zandehs,  470 
Zenaga  Tribe,  138 
Zeng-Nunu,  269 
Zhiru,  336 

Zigah  Poroh  Zu6,  226 
Ziguinchor,  179,  181 
Zinder,  363 
Zoghawa,  363 
Zoglogbo,  269 
Zolu,  226 
Zombe,  458 
Zonengwar  Lake,  389 
Zongo  Fads,  426 
Rapids,  475 
Zu-Zu,  226 


.^ 


f 


.^ 


.:?;■■(,■' 


^■am-  '■- 


f        'WW 


■y 


,!-* 


y 


rudfcT^I 


